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by Vic Harradine
Gerry McConnell and the late Dara Gordon, were owners of Benjamin Bridge Winery in 2000 and contracted two premier wine consultants—*Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling, to assess and make winemaking recommendations for their nascent 60-acre property adjacent to the Gaspereau River in Nova Scotia.
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by Susan Desjardins
As a part of its centenary celebration, and recognizing the life and work of its founder, the Robert Mondavi Winery hosted a luncheon and tasting at the Fairmont Château Laurier in Ottawa. The tasting was led by Mark de Vere, Director and Master of Wine, who moved to Napa Valley from the U.K. shortly after completing his WSET and Master of Wine certification. Chef Louis Simard of the Château offered an innovative, intricate series of dishes featuring local produce expertly paired with each wine.
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In June 2012, Bill C-311, presented by Dan Albas, MP for Okanagan-Coquihalla, received royal assent just before the House of Commons rose for the summer. Why do we care? Laws governing the transport and sale of alcohol across provincial boundaries dated back to 1928 and the Prohibition Era. Until the passage of Bill C-311 by unanimous vote of the House, it was a criminal offence to take or ship wine across provincial boundaries. Talk to European winemakers about this and they just shake their heads – “How can this be? You are one country, are you not! In Europe there is no issue shipping wine across national boundaries. We don’t understand why there is an issue in Canada!”
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While one might easily slide in and out of a three-day wine competition or a week-long wine junket without soaking up the big picture of a region’s or a country’s wine scene, a ten-week, wine-focused visit to one particular country or region offers a broad, in-depth, introspective experience. For a variety of reasons, not many wine writers or critics attempt it—ten weeks away from home is inconvenient, often not possible, and extremely expensive. Aside from innate curiosity and a desire to expand my wine experiences and knowledge, the overwhelming allure was to escape the freezing depths of a Canadian winter traveling to South Africa during the toasty-warm heights of their reversal-of-seasons summer—full disclosure.
Read more: Wrapping up a Ten-Week South Africa wine experience
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The case for a resurgent Pinotage, South Africa’s native grape, is becoming quite compelling. There’s serious movement afoot to produce structured, complex Pinotage by some of the best producers and most-respected wine personalities in South Africa. They wish to showcase the quality and value this uniquely South African grape can deliver. Pinotage a cross between two Vitis vinifera varieties—Pinot Noir and Cinsault—so not a hybrid. Cinsault was also known in South Africa as Hermitage, hence the name Pinotage. And yes, ‘Herminoir’ was considered. It was crossed by U of Stellenbosch’s first Professor of Viticulture, Dr. Abraham Izak Perold, in 1925.
Read more: South Africa Feature VI —Is it time to rethink Pinotage?
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This newly minted, Wine of Origin-designated region is in the far south of the Cape winelands with wineries two to eight kilometers from the Indian Ocean. It sports a maritime climate enjoying cool, southerly breezes channeled through the valley in summer accompanied by sea mists and overcast conditions accounting for the even temperatures. It’s now divided into three distinct areas - WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, WO Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. Tim Hamilton-Russell was an early 1975 pioneer showing the way for what is a now a small collection of premium winemaking families. Hamilton Russell now doffs their cap to this cool-climate region by producing only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with stunning results. Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc are also showing their mettle, other producers pick up that challenge.
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Swartland is by no means a new, a newer, or even new-ish wine region. For many decades much of its fruit has been finding its way into commercial wine drunk and sold locally and internationally. If you’re even a casual wine drinker who tries something new once in a while, I’m certain you’ve drunk some. So what’s the excitement? What’s exciting is how the fruit is now grown and how it’s handled, or more to the point, not handled, in the winery. And, that you can now more easily purchase wine that’s bottled and labeled Swartland from only Swartland fruit, not, as before, blended in with other appellations and under their Wine of Origin.
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Vic is still in South Africa and for the next few weeks, having now finished tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds.
There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in LCBO, SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll most likely learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store.
- Details
Vic is still in South Africa and for the next few weeks, presently tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds.
- Details
Vic is in South Africa now and for the next few weeks, presently tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds.
There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in LCBO, SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store.