Vic is in South Africa now and for the next few weeks, presently tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds. There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in LCBO, SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store.
Boekenhoutskloof Winery
Über congenial winemaker, Jean Smit, shared this quick overview of Boekenhoutskloof’s philosophy and raison d’être. They’re focused on sourcing the best fruit from the best sites, regardless of the price point of the wine. They’ve removed previously planted vines from their own estate replacing them with varietals better suited to the soil, aspect and micro climate seeking the same from growers with whom they work; and they work with them year after year, on a handshake. They employ back-to-basics winemaking techniques including no acidification and practice organic farming. Those factors set the foundation for their wines and for my recommendation to seek out Boekenhoutskloof and purchase their wine simply on the trust of their name. 
Admired and respected for their practices, they’re also no slouches when it comes to making wine with over a decade of accolades and awards. Guided by iconic Cellarmaster Marc Kent, they were recently named the 2012 Platter’s Guide ‘Winery of the Year’ with no fewer than three, 5-star category ratings. They also received recognition in Platter’s with the ‘Super Quaffer of the Year’ awarded their ‘The Wolftrap white blend’ reviewed below with a possibility of hitting LCBO shelves in the future. The 2009 vintage of their ‘Vintages Essentials’ Porcupine Ridge Syrah is a ripper and reviewed below – watch for, and pick up some. It’s fashioned with the same care, meticulous practices and philosophy as above along with a very attractive price point. 
Boekenhoutskloof ‘Porcupine Ridge’ Syrah 2009
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $14.95 (595280) 14.0% alcohol
Balanced and brimming with beautiful fruit, this has structure, a lingering aftertaste and oodles of charm—a $15 red tasting like $20 or more. Red berry fruit, bacon, floral notes and mineral on the nose, this bursts on the palate with a balanced, persistent wash of briary berry and juicy black Bing cherry adorned by mixed spice. It’s medium-full weight with lovely mouth feel and a mouth-watering lively finish—each sip’s better than the previous—how good is that? (Vic Harradine)
Boekenhoutskloof ‘The Wolftrap’ Viognier/Chenin Blanc/Grenache Blanc 2010
WO Western Cape, South Africa $13.95 14.0% alcohol
This intricate, well-structured white blend showcases the 67% Viognier delivering a juicy mouthful of flavour with balance and pizzazz. Lively white peach, ripe pear and zesty peel marmalade mingle with lemon-lime and tangerine on the palate and lingering aftertaste. Medium bodied and generously textured, the lip-smacking aftertaste layers on nutty notes with wisps of vanilla. Divine on its own, it also shines with seafood or pasta in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Boekenhoutskloof ‘The Chocolate Block’ 2010
WO Western Cape, South Africa $49.00 14.5% alcohol
Primarily dry-grown, deep-rooted Syrah from Swartland along with carefully selected parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsault with a splash of Viognier, aromas of rose petals, mocha and spice-infused field berry jump from the glass. Plush, full bodied and flavour-laden—black currant, espresso roast and sweet ripe mulberry—this is well structured and deftly balanced throughout. There’s a good underpinning of ripe, fine-grained tannin and a lively juicy finish. (Vic Harradine)
Cape Chamonix
With some of the highest, coolest vineyards in the Franschhoek valley, it’s no surprise this historic wine farm, found on the eastern slopes of the valley, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. They use only estate grown fruit in their wine, showcasing premium small vineyards dedicated to the grapes best suited to the particular terroir. It’s situated on the first property—La Cotte Farm—granted to French Huguenot refugees in 1688—Franschhoek translates to ‘French Corner’. The ‘Cape Chamonix’ winery name is fairly recent, 1991, having previously been named ‘Waterval’. 
In that short time they’ve made quite a name for themselves in spite of their artisan production; or, perhaps, because of it. With 52 hectares under vine and a 20 000 case production per annum, they’ve been able to garner wide acclaim for their wine and their personnel. Cellarmaster / winemaker Gottfried Mocke was named 2006 winemaker of the year by Diners Club and their 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir, reviewed below, was awarded 5 stars and named ‘Red Wine of the Year’ in Platter’s 2012 guide. Gottfried was most generous in sharing his time and first-hand knowledge of Cape Chamonix and the wide range of wines tasted. Cape Chamonix Chardonnay 2010
WO Franschhoek, South Africa $18.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of apple, vanilla and tropical fruit hustle from the glass of this Burgundy-styled, finely balanced beauty. It brims with flavour—white peach, ripe pear and a salad bowl of ripe tropical fruit adorned with kitchen spice and citrus. Mid weight with good mouth feel and the barest wisp of oak, it finishes in a luscious river of almond-infused apple and nectarine braced by excellent moderating citrus tang. Perfectly paired with seafood pasta or pan-seared white fish. Very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Cape Chamonix ‘Troika Reserve’ 2009
WO Franschhoek, South Africa $28.95 14.0% alcohol
This outstanding red blend—54% Cabernet Franc, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot—was sourced from vines at 400 metres from bunch-selected, hand-sorted fruit before a gentle press, wild-yeast ferment then aged 18 months in 90% new, French-oak barriques. It’s rich, elegant and balanced delivering a polished and structured wash of black berry, vanilla, cassis and spice-infused, juicy, black Bing cherry. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, the deftly integrated oak adds complexity while the aftertaste lingers with racy fruit flavour underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Cape Chamonix ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2010
WO Franschhoek, South Africa $34.95 13.5% alcohol
This was sourced from some of the region’s highest vineyards. Meticulous fruit selection, indigenous yeast fermentation, judicious oak regimentation and the fabulous winemaking touch of Cellarmaster Gottfried Mocke coalesce in this elegant, beautifully balanced Pinot. It’s light-ruby hued with alluring aromas of savoury spice, cedar and red berry fruit providing segue to a persistent wash of racy sour cherry and dried currant mingling with savoury notes. It rides a spine of juicy acidity underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannin—its finishes crisp and lip-smacking good. Cellarmaster Mocke suggests another 5 or so years in the cellar to reach the optimum drinking window. (Vic Harradine)
La Motte
This historic site was originally planted with 4000 vines in 1752 by the Huguenots. It was purchased in 1970 by Dr. Anton Rupert, a widely acclaimed and respected environmental conservationist prominent in funding the fine arts. An incredibly successful businessman, he invested part of his fortune in the promotion of education and the arts plus the preservation of historical buildings. He was a prominent, outspoken critic of apartheid urging the apartheid regime to form partnerships with blacks. Dr. Rupert courageously expressed these views while living in South Africa during the time it was practised. His non-profit business enterprise helped provide hundreds of thousands of jobs. He died at 89 years of age in 2006 at his Stellenbosch residence. La Motte is now owned by his daughter, Hanneli Rupert-Koegelenberg and managed by her husband, Hein Koegelenberg. 
Their overall wine portfolio is marked by amazing consistency with every level and the wines within those levels delivering discernible fruit, balancing acidity and value for money. This doesn’t prevent Shiraz from elbowing its way to the front of the line with a foot firmly in two styles—an abundance of ripe, juicy fruit and lip-smacking racy acidity for balance. Winemaker Michael Langenhoven joined us only briefly as harvest was underway with fruit for MCC—aka Méthode Cape Classic, sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne method—and Sauvignon Blanc picked and making its way to the winery. Nevertheless, the tall, gregarious winemaker povided a wealth of information and left us with a better understanding of the technical aspects of production. La Motte ‘Pierneef’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Western Cape, South Africa $15.95 12.5% alcohol
Organically grown and sourced from various regions with an all-stainless-steel regimen and 5 months on the lees, this bolts from the glass with a profusion of aromas—cut grass, ripe tropical fruit and citrus notes. It’s medium-full weight, dry, crisp and refreshing with a very generous mouth feel. Flavours cut acros the palte with good sense of purpose and persistence—gooseberry, key lime pie and mineral notes mingling with ripe honeydew melon. The racy aftertaste is elegant and fresh. (Vic Harradine)
La Motte ‘Millennium’ 2009
WO Walkers Bay, South Africa $27.95 13.5% alcohol
A lovely Bordeaux blend—44% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon—it rips from the glass with an involved nose of earthiness, aromatic bitters and spice-laden black berry. Plush and mellow on the palate, soft waves of currant, ripe mulberry and red cherry mingle with espresso roast and tarry notes. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lingering well-balanced aftertaste underpinned by wisps of ripe tannin. Pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
La Motte ‘Pierneef’ Shiraz-Viognier 2008
WO Western Cape, South Africa $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Cherry and currants meld nicely with fennel and kitchen spice on the nose of this beautifully balanced, tightly knit red blend. It’s medium-plus bodied with a stream of lip-smacking flavour with red currant, ripe mulberry and spice-laden black plum to the fore. There’s deftly integrated oak—63% new French barrique with the balance 2nd and 3rd fill for 15 months—and a lingering elegant finish that’s well structured and succulent. A two-hour decant helps unlock aromas and flavours. (Vic Harradine)
Plaisir de Merle
Part of the Distell Group—one of South Africa’s leading marketer and producers of wine and spirits—Plaisir de Merle is an historic property deserving of its place in the portfolio as a ‘Cape Legend’. Fleeing from France in 1687 due to religious persecution, Huguenot Charles Marais was granted land in 1693 that flourished under his grandson, Jacob, and was named after their former home town, ‘Le Plessis Marly’, and eventually ‘Plaisir de Merle’. After being acquired by Distell in 1964, a new cellar was built in 1993 and current wine maker Niel Bester was brought on board at that time to oversee its development. And the rest, as they say, is history. Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 2009
WO Paarl, South Africa $16.95 13.7% alcohol
Vanilla, toast and nutty notes on the nose, this dishes up a persistent wash of ripe, sweet orchard fruit with white peach, green apple and ripe pear to the fore mingling with hints of fresh lemon. Fruit was hand-picked from 20-year-old—on average—vines from south-eastern-facing slopes 350-450 m above sea level. This is nicely balanced and mid-full weight with velvety mouth feel and a lingering finish of tropical fruit and excellent citrus acidity with the barest wisp of well-integrated oak. (Vic Harradine)
Plaisir de Merle Shiraz 2008
WO Paarl, South Africa $29.95 13.7% alcohol
This is well balanced, smooth and mellow on the palate with deftly integrated oak and a lingering, fruity, mouth-watering aftertaste. Aromas of spice, black pepper and dark berry fruit spill from this medium-bodied, plushly textured red. Gentle waves of sweet, ripe mulberry and black berry fruit wash over the palate streaming through the lengthy, racy aftertaste adorned with lip-smacking red fruit. Well paced, structured and certainly ready to drink. (Vic Harradine)
Plaisir de Merle ‘Grand Plaisir’ 2007
WO Paarl, South Africa $59.95 14.0% alcohol
Their flagship red—40% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Petit Verdot; 10% Malbec; 15% Cabernet Franc; 15% Shiraz; 10% Merlot—offers up a complex bouquet of cedar, floral notes and leather adorned with dark berry fruit and espresso roast. Aged in 300-litre new French oak for 16 months, this dry, nicely structured blend is a result of meticulous barrel selection, fining and racking off the lees before bottling. Palate-coating flavours of red and black berry fruit and racy, moderating acidity stream throughout underpinned by supple tannin and notes of toasty oak. Winemaker Bester and consultant winemaker, Dr. Paul Pontallier, of highly regarded Chateaux Margaux, showcase their experience and expertise in this and all Plaisir de Merle wines. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal Estate
The first official owner, French Huguenot Jean le Long, took over the property in 1685 and 300 years later they celebrated the event by launching the ‘1685’ quality+value driven brand that has met with broad international acceptance and success. Those wines are bottled in a specially designed bottle—hand-crafted first in wood by a cellar employee. Since those early days there have been multiple owners including mining magnate Cecil J. Rhodes who later sold to De Beers mining. In 2004 a private consortium, led by property developer Clive Venning, took over and continues to hold the reins at Boschendal. Wine tastings are held under a +200-year-old oak tree near the fabulous Manor House, one of the finest examples of circa 1812 Cape Dutch architecture—an authentically furnished farmhouse including photographs, timelines and irreplaceable furniture and historical items. On a very good day you’ll encounter Mrs. Petersen, the knowledgeable Manor House custodian. One of the largest winefarms in the Cape and sitting in the triangle of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek, it produces wines punching well above their weight at every price point. Diminutive winemaker Lizelle Gerber handles the white wines and the outstanding MCC Grand Cuvée Brut with skill and authority while the laid-back Thinus Kruger’s accomplishments are equally as commendable with the reds.
Boschendal ‘1685’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Coastal Region $17.95 14.0% alcohol
This is well balanced, crisp and refreshing with deftly integrated oak and a fruit-laden, lip-smacking finish. Toast, nutty notes and baking spice on the nose, this rolls over the palate in waves—clean, crisp lemon- lime and oodles of generously textured lemon chiffon pie and caramelized pineapple. It’s mid weight with just a wisp of toast on the racy, mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Chenin Blanc-Viognier 2011
WO Western Cape $10.95 13.0% alcohol
Slightly off-dry with good aromas and flavours, you won’t go wrong sipping this on its own or paired with pasta in cream sauce or spicy Asian dishes. Floral and tropical fruit on the nose, the palate’s treated to juicy, tangy river of melon, quince and tropical fruit. It’s good weight with a generous texture sporting a lengthy, nicely balanced and refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal ‘1685’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Coastal Region $15.95 13.5% alcohol
It’s the complete package, crisp and refreshing, full of flavour and pours well with a variety of appetizers and mains—pick up a few. Grassy and herbaceous aromas mingle with notes of citrus and tropical fruit presaging a surge of succulent, refreshing lime, honeydew melon and white grapefruit flavour. There’s a splash of Semillon lifting the flavours and a tiny wisp of well-seasoned oak enhancing the texture and complexity. It finishes refreshing and lip-smacking delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal ‘Reserve Collection - Grande Reserve’ 2009
WO Stellenbosch $31.95 14.5% alcohol
This single-vineyard red is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Shiraz. It highlights a textbook vintage and meticulous viticulture and winemaking practises coalescing in a lovely blend. Aromas of dark berries, cedar and chocolate abound presaging a chewy, juicy river of black currant, ripe mulbery and spice-laden black cherry. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with good balance and a solid underpinning of resolving, fine-grained tannin. There’s good balance and hints of mint and espresso roast on the fruit-filled aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal ‘The Pavillion’ Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
WO Western Cape $11.95 (222299) 13.7% alcohol
Aromas of spice, cherry/berry fruit and nuances of dark coffee aromas open this easy-going, red blend—60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. A gusher of juicy, ripe, sweet, berry fruit—black juicy cherry and briary berry—coats the palate, persisting through the nicely balanced, mid-length finish. A crowd pleaser sipped on its own, it pours well alongside burgers, meat-laden pizza and pasta arrabiata. (Vic Harradine)
Boschendal ‘Grand Cuvée Brut’ 2007
WO Coastal Region $17.95 12.5% alcohol
The hand-picked fruit was gently whole-bunch pressed with a maximum 500 L per ton of juice extracted. Light-yellow hued with hints of green, this Chardonnay-Pinot Noir blend delivers a lively nose of biscuit, nutty notes, minerality and citrus. The fine-bead mousse delivers an endless profusion of flavour with racy lemon-lime citrus, slate and white peach to the fore. It showcases good structure, a generous mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste that’s clean and mouth-wateringly refreshing. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou
This recently established (1985) winery was purchased by present owner Donald Hess of Hess Family Estates in 2003. It’s now a popular destination for locals and tourists from nearby Paarl and Cape Town. Stunning views and fabulous cuisine from their stylish Zen Restaurant—under the guiding and talented hand of Chef Hennie van der Merwe—make this a not-to-be-missed venue for lunch or dinner. The food is chic, but served by friendly, knowledgeable wait staff and enjoyed in the most-relaxed surroundings. The adjacent gallery of contemporary art provided by aficionado and patron of the arts, Donald Hess, adds to the lustre of the visit. But in the end, it’s all about the wine—they showcase well-balanced, structured and focused wines wrought from low yields, careful clonal and terroir selection along with judicious intervention by Cellarmaster Arco Laarman. Recently bottled wines carry the ‘Integrity and Sustainability’ seal. 
With a decidedly ‘less is more’ philosophy on the use of oak, Arco feels oak has to be managed so that it enhances wine in the manner that judicious use of salt enhances flavour in food—if you taste the salt, you used too much. 2011 saw them also produce their first unwooded Chardonnay—using cutting-edge, egg-shaped, cement fermentation vessels, often associated with bio-dynamic producers, early results show increased texture and flavour through the delicate lees stirring resulting from temperature differences. Their two flagship offerings, the Quartz Stone Chardonnay and Gravel Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon, gain awards and accolades locally and internationally; both are highly sought after and very tough to spit. The first wine reviewed below is the 2010 Chardonnay; there are a few bottles of the 2008 remaining in select LCBO stores. If the 2010 follows, pick up a handful. Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2010
WO Western Cape $18.95 (915231) 14.0% alcohol
Baking spice, toasty notes and nutty nuances on the nose, this dishes up a crisp, clean and refreshing mouthful of delectable, lip-smacking flavour—white peach, green apple and lemon zest galore. It’s medium-weight with good mouth feel and terrific balance throughout. The oak’s been deftly integrated showing little more than wisps of vanilla and spice on the racy, refreshing mid-length aftertaste. Great sipped on its own, it also pours well with pan-seared white fish or grilled garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou ‘Unwooded’ Chardonnay 2011
WO Paarl $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Fashioned using egg-shaped, cement fermenters, cellarmaster Arco Laarman has his focus stamped all over this—it’s clean and crisp with good fruit and clean minerality on the palate adorned by a generous mouth feel—what’s not to like? Citrus and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas segue a focused steam of flavour—nectarine, green apple and racy lemon sherbet—persisting through the refreshing aftertaste. It’s light-medium bodied with oodles of texture and more than its fair share of charm and style. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou ‘Quartz Stone’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Paarl $55 .95 13.5% alcohol
An iconic, single-vineyard gem, this opens with aromas of racy, orange and lemon zest mingling with cinnamon and toasty notes. Medium-full bodied and brimming with succulent, balanced, beautiful flavour—lemon and tangerine adorned by toffee and kitchen spice—it rolls over the palate in velvety-textured waves. Fruit was hand picked and sorted, fermented by wild yeast, barrel fermented and aged 11 months in 100% new, French oak, The monumental, memorable aftertaste is stylish, mouth-watering and delicious—right up there with top tier 1er Cru Burgundy. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou ‘Grand Classique’ 2008
WO Paarl $23 .95 14.0% alcohol
This value-packed Bordeaux blend—52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 14% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc—leaps from the glass with aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, underbrush and black licorice. It’s über smooth and mellow with palate-coating flavours of sweet, ripe mulberry, hints of cassis and lip-smacking black currant. Mid-full bodied and nicely textured it finishes in a blaze of sweet, fruit flavour with black, juicy Bing cherry and briary berry interlaced with espresso roast. Good to go now and on to 2017—paired well with grilled strip loin or beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
Glen Carlou ‘Gravel Quarry’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
WO Paarl $72.95 14.5% alcohol
Alluring and gorgeous aromas of mocha, dark field berry and exotic spice segue a glorious gusher of balanced, generously textured, juicy black cherry and black plum compote interwoven with deftly integrated toasty oak and hints of savoury spice. Rich and robust—medium-full bodied with oodles of concentrated flavour—it retains enough structure and moderating acidity to attain charm and elegance. It finishes lengthy and luxurious with a replay of fruit, spice and mocha underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)
KWV (Kooperatiewe Wijnbouwers Vereeniging – Cooperative Wine Farmers Association)
Until 20 years ago, KWV was a controlling mother hen for the entire South African wine industry. Since then, they’ve been privatized and forced to sink or swim—and they’ve done swimmingly well. Scooping up bagfuls of awards and medals, they’ve pretty much turned the corner to become a vibrant, robust international marketer of fine wines. Their major brand banners include KWV, Laborie Estate, Café Culture, Roodeberg, Golden Kaan and Pearly Bay. During a visit to Laborie, we tasted a wide range with former KWV viticulturist and now Manager of Laborie, Cobus Van Graan, and KWV’s Chief Winemaker, Richard Rowe. Richard held me with an earnest, focused gaze while he laid out what they’ve accomplished and where their vision is taking them. 
He offered the following, “You can taste a marked stylistic evolution in our wines over the last four or five vintages and we’re not nearly finished. I’m unashamedly a ‘new world’ winemaker, making wine that can be benchmarked alongside what the best wine regions in the world have on offer—our wines are modern, clean, stylish and refreshing with some reaching elegance—we value structure and concentration. We’re backing off our winemaking intervention, especially with oak, allowing the terroir, meticulous vine management practices and the fruit to have more of a voice. We're pretty happy with where we are and know we're going to continue getting better.” You’ll see in the following reviews that they’re tracking very well. Laborie Brut 2008
WO Western Cape $17.95 12% alcohol
This opens with a gorgeous nose of baking brioche, floral notes and orchard fruit. On the palate, excellent citrus acidity, green apple and ripe pear mingling with nuances of pineapple and white grapefruit are borne along on a persistent, fine-bead mousse. This is well balanced and well structured with a super-velvety mouth feel. It finishes crisp, clean and refreshing—lovely on its own, divine with seared scallops on a bed of arugula. (Vic Harradine)
Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2010
WO Western Cape $14.95 (328559) 14% alcohol
Firm and focused, this delivers a spirited wash of racy, lip-smacking Chardonnay to be enjoyed as an aperitif or poured alongside lemon veal, pan-seared fish or grilled/steamed crustaceans. Aromas of baking spice, Meyer lime and fragrant floral notes herald a mouth-watering river of green apple and ripe yellow plum interwoven with toasty, nutty notes. This is mid-weight and generously textured with a lingering, clean, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Café Culture 2011
WO Western Cape $13.95 (072710) 14.5% alcohol
This is a versatile, crowd-pleasing, value-laden quaffer that adds some pizzazz—espresso roast and dark chocolate—to Pinotage—dark, juicy, sweet berry fruit and chocolate-covered, black Bing cherry. It’s mid weight with great mouth feel and a lingering, fruit-laden aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs slathered with spicy BBQ sauce or with burgers or meat-laden pizza. Chocolate dessert also works or try with aged, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)
KWV ‘The Mentors’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Elgin $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Structured and elegant with a monumental finish, this cool-climate, barrel-fermented gem brims with complex aromas and flavours. Tangerine, slate, rose petal and vanilla on the nose, it coats the palate with rich, full-bodied flavours of zesty lemon pie filling, ripe pear and nectarine interlaced with toast and nuances of baking spice. This has very generous mouth feel and a lingering well-balanced, racy, lip-smacking finish of Granny Smith apple and lemongrass with wisps of toast. (Vic Harradine)
KWV ‘The Mentors’ Grenache Blanc 2010
WO Paarl $32.95 14.0% alcohol
Only 440 stunning cases produced of this single-vineyard gem; partial barrel fermentation with regular lees stirring and no malolactic conversion. Orange blossom, lanolin and citrus on the nose, there’s a salad bowl of flavours with citrus peel marmalade, spice-infused Mirabelle plum, juicy white peach and key lime pie to the fore. This is nicely structured, quite elegant, mid-full weight with good texture and a balanced, mouth-watering aftertaste of racy citrus and minerality. (Vic Harradine)
Fairview
Owned by the engaging, peripatetic Charles Back, you may know Fairview better as producers of ‘Goats do Roam’, the playful red and white blends (reviewed below; they’re incredible value) featuring varietals associated with France’s Côtes du Rhône wine region. Charles wears many hats, moving easily between vintner for the multi-region vineyards and wines—Paarl, Stellenbosch, Darling, Swartland—and wineries, he also owns Spice Route Wines, to Fairview’s formidable, cheese-making facilities then on to the fabulous Goatshead Restaurant situated at the winery in Paarl. The well-established restaurant is extremely popular with tourists and locals visiting from nearby Cape Town – it’s one of the most popular destinations on the busy wine route. The myriad cheese, cured meats, artisan breads, jams and jellies on offer, with tasting stations, make it near impossible to leave empty handed. Charles was present the day winecurrent visited having just returned from Canada and a visit with agents there. What you may not know is that Fairview walks the ‘enviro-friendly’ talk with rigorous attention to sustainable agriculture, reducing their carbon footprint and preserving the biodiversity of the Western Cape with all wines now carrying the ‘Integrity and Sustainability’ seal.
Winemaker Anthony de Jager is a switched-on, progressive professional, full of exciting ideas with a trophy case of accolades and awards for the wine he and Charles have produced—their 2008 Beacon Shiraz from WO Paarl earned 5-star honours in Platter’s 2012 Guide. With exciting, promising newly planted varietals now producing wine—Tempranillo, Barbera, Tannat—from cooler and interesting regions—Darling and Swartland respectively, it’s no wonder local and international production and sales are on the dramatic upswing. Fairview Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Darling $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Once considered South Africa’s top white grape, Chenin Blanc a.k.a. Steen or Stien, is finding new favour sourced from cooler wine regions like Darling. Alluring aromas of floral, slate and zesty citrus segue a crisp, clean and refreshing river of orange rind, white peach and oodles of crisp, racy lemony flavour running over the palate in endless waves. It’s mid weight with deft balance and a tang-laden, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)
Fairview ‘Primo’ Pinotage
WO Coastal $36.95 14.5% alcohol
An ardent Pinotage aficionado, Charles Back has spent a good part of his life seeking ideal Pinotage vineyards from which to source his ‘Primo’ red—hence the large ‘Coastal’ appellation of this wine. Perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit, baking spice and espresso roast abound on the nose of this full-bodied, flavour-laden red. There’s excellent carpentry and deft balance throughout with flavours of ripe mulberry, spiced black plum and bittersweet chocolate front and centre. With good acidity, a supple tannin underpinning and a lengthy lip-smacking finish, it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
Fairview Viognier 2010
WO Paarl $14.95 14.0% alcohol
Innovative and cutting edge, Fairview was the first South African producer of this varietal. Aromas of orange blossom, tropical fruit and lemongrass dominate the fragrant nose. The palate’s treated to a cornucopia of viscous, fleshy flavour—lemon chiffon pie and apricot mingling with toast and spice-infused yellow plum. It’s full-bodied and generously textured with a lengthy, complex aftertaste of succulent honeydew melon and white grapefruit. This has the oomph to pour well with stuffed roast turkey and root veggies, white pizza with goat cheese or pasta in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Goats do Roam ‘White’ 2011
WO Coastal Region $11.95 (237313)
Tropical fruit and floral notes dominate the nose of this crisp and mouth-watering delectable, Rhône-style blend—Viognier, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc. Unique and refreshing, it’s well balanced and fruit-laden with lemon-lime citrus and ripe pineapple interlaced with ripe honeydew melon and succulent white peach. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a dry, crisp, lip-smacking finish—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Goats do Roam ‘Red’ 2011
WO Western Cape $12.95 (718940)
This punches well above the price making it hard to walk by without picking up a few. Rhône varietals Shiraz, Mourvèdre and others are blended with a splash of South African Pinotage making this unique and absolutely delicious. Perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit and spiced black plum herald a gorgeous, nicely balanced wash of clean, refreshing flavours with sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy, black cherry predominant. It’s mid-full weight and well textured with a juicy, succulent, fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)
Spice Route ‘Chakalaka’ 2009
WO Swartland $ 14.5% alcohol
Chakalaka is an über-spicy relish made from a blend of South African spices. This über-spicy red is made from a blend of red grapes—37% Syrah, 21% Mourvèdre, 18% Carignan, 10% Petite Syrah, 10% Grenache and 4% Tannat—you get the idea. Concentrated, juicy and nicely balanced, spiced, dark berry fruit, fennel and dark coffee dominate the aromas and succulent flavours. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour this value packed, crowd-pleaser with grilled back ribs or meat-laden pizza (Vic Harradine)
Spice Route Shiraz 2009
WO Swartland $24.95 15.0% alcohol
Reflecting dry-grown bush vines, seasoned French and American oak, and the sparse, warm terroir of Swartland, this hustles from the glass with a profusion of energetic aromas with aromatic bitters, black licorice and dark, ripe berry fruit among them. A tsunami wave of sweet, ripe mulberry, raisined berries and spice-laden black plum compote washes over the palate persisting through the lengthy, fruit-laden aftertaste. This is full-bodied, value-packed and generously textured with good acidity for balance and an underpinning of sweet, ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburg Wine Estates
Inextricably entwined with South African wine, and almost as well known, the Nederburg Wine Auction was first held in 1975. Thousands of pre-vetted cases are offered each year to national and international trade-only invitees. Its beginnings are wrapped up with the stunning noble late harvest, ‘Edelkeur’, that at one time won international awards, but was excluded as a table wine in South Africa’s medals because of the high residual sugar content. The now-retired, iconic Nederburg winemaker at the time was Günther Brözel—still the only South African to have won the International Wine and Spirits Competition Winemaker of the Year award—they’ve won more medals than any other South African winery. He was winemaster for half a century beginning in 1956 and so revered that one student recently taking the Cape Wine Exam submitted Günther’s name in answer to the question – Who is the God of wine? Nederburg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Paarl $10.95 (111526) 14.8% alcohol
Racy and robust flavours of smoke, dark, ripe berry fruit, tar and black licorice abound. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a mid-length, balanced finish that’s underpinned by perceptible tannin and framed by good, mouth-watering acidity. Decant a couple of hour pouring alongside grilled or roasted beef or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Coastal Region $10.95 (187229) 13.6% alcohol
Here’s a crowd-pleasing, nicely fashioned Sauvignon Blanc with oodles of ripe, sweet fruit flavour, refreshing acidity and a fair share of charm. Wisps of grassy and herbaceous aromas segue a light-medium-bodied wash of lemon pie filling, ripe pineapple and succulent white peach that’s persistent on the palate and through the lip-smacking, lingering aftertaste. Lovely sipped as an aperitif, it also pairs well with pan-seared fish and sea food. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburg Shiraz 2009
WO Coastal Region $10.95 (527457) 14.4% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of charry toast, black licorice and peppery, spiced black plum compote abound. It’s mid weight with a solid tannin underpinning and finishes in a blaze of racy red fruit—sour cherry, red currant and red plum mingling with toasty oak; it spent 12 months in new and seasoned oak barrels. A two-hour decant and poured with rare-grilled steak will add to your pleasure. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburg ‘Ingenuity Red Blend’ 2009
WO Western Cape $19.95 14.4% alcohol
Perfumed and persistent aromas of dark berry fruit, gamy notes and underbrush waft freely from this stylish red blend—Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo. It’s complex and well structured with waves of sour cherry, black currant and racy red currant washing endlessly over the palate and through the lengthy, dry, mouth-watering finish. It’s a bit tight and will benefit from a two-hour decant or two or three more years in the cellar. (Vic Harradine)
Nederburg ‘Ingenuity White Blend’ 2009
WO Western Cape $19.95 13.5% alcohol
Eight grapes make up this blend including oaked Sauvignon Blanc plus Chardonnay, Viognier and Semillon. Honeyed orchard fruit—apple, peach and pear—herald a beautifully balanced river of lemon zest, apricot and peel marmalade riding a spine of good acidity. This is mid weight with generous texture and a mouth-watering finish that layers on some delightful spicy notes. Pour alongside roast chicken or roast pork stuffed with dried fruits. (Vic Harradine)