by Vic Harradine

South Africa FlagVic is still in South Africa and for the next few weeks, having now finished tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds.

There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in LCBO, SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll most likely learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store.

Thelema Mountain VineyardsThelema Mountain Vineyards

Thelema has a total of 157 ha with elevation ranging from 370 to 640 metres above sea level of mainly south-facing slopes – one of the highest elevations and coolest vineyards in the Stellenbosch area. It has been an enormous effort to convert Thelema into a wine farm from the fruit orchards, many neglected, there previously. The farm workers housing has been renovated with new cottages built and an old Cape Victorian farmhouse restored. The orchards have gradually made way for vineyards and virgin mountainside cleared and prepared to increase the arable land to about 40 ha. Detailed tests of the soil have revealed them to be high-potential, decomposed granite with excellent water-retention capacity.

In 2000 Thelema bought Sutherland, an apple orchard in the Elgin Valley. To date 45 hectares of vines have been planted on this cool-climate site—Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Grenache, Pinot Noir. The rolling hills and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean offers excellent conditions. All the Sutherland fruit is transported to Thelema for vinification then bottled under the Thelema Sutherland label. The Thelema logo—the mythical Phoenix—is from the owner’s, Gyles and Barbara Webb, family crest.

***1/2 drink now
Thelema ‘Ed’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of spice, orange peel, licorice and grapey notes waft from this easy-going quaffer. It’s from the Dijon-166 clone widely planted in South Africa, similar to Chardonnay Musqué. It’s light on its feet with a rivulet of lime and grapefruit melding with a salad bowl of tropical fruit on the palate and clean, crisp, mid-length, aftertaste. A bistro-styled white that sips well and pairs with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Thelema Sutherland Viognier-Roussanne 2009
WO Elgin $14.95 14.0% alcohol
Cooler Elgin struts its stuff here with aromas of honeyed apple and pear preceding a gorgeously textured wash of succulent white peach, ripe pear and red licorice interwoven with a racy surge of white grapefruit. Its medium weight, balanced and beautiful. The aftertaste showcases a stylish, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Thelema ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2009
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 15.0% alcohol
Heavy toast, dark cherry and black plum on the nose, this delivers a savoury spicy run of mixed field berry fruit mingling with fennel and other mixed herbs and spice. It’s focused and linear with a tightly knit finish and a perceptible tannin underpinning. The finish gives an herbaceous click along with shadings of red currant and red cherry. Pair with pasta in tomato-based sauce and meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Thelema ‘The Mint’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $32.95 15.0% alcohol
Named for a close-by stand of eucalyptus trees, this is gorgeously structured, well balanced rich and fruit-laden. Aromas of herbs, savoury spice and black licorice, it coats the palate with a well-paced wash of rich, luscious black currant and tangy red cherry. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a mouth-watering aftertaste—load up the cart. (Vic Harradine)

Ernie Els WinesErnie Els Wines

Ernie Els, dubbed the ‘Big Easy’ because of his seemingly effortless golf swing, is a well-known and much-admired sportsman. With a sense of irony for us, he defeated Luke Donald, the #1 golfer in the world, in matchplay a few hours after winecurrent’s tasting at his well-regarded winery. We won’t take any credit for the win, but it was exciting to view a small selection of his many important trophies at the winery before watching the match—he’s won +60 tournaments including a record seven World Matchplay titles and two U.S. Opens.

Ernie focuses his efforts outside of the winery and golf on two endeavors. One is the Ernie Els and Fancourt Foundation founded in 1999 with a mission to ‘identify talented young South Africans predominantly from families of limited resources and provide them with educational and life-skill assistance and playing opportunities in order to produce successful, well-rounded and educated young golfers.’

Winemaker Louis StrydomThe second, and deeply personal, is the Els for Autism Foundation. His son, Ben, was diagnosed with Autism and in 2009 the foundation was established with the expressed goal of funding an Autism Center for Excellence. The goal now is to raise 30 million dollars; the Els donated six million dollars of their own. In Ernie’s own words, ‘Years from now people may remember me as a golfer and a major champion. But I'd like also to be remembered as somebody who took the issue of Autism and did something with it. The rest of my life, I'll be fighting this thing...I hope you'll join with me.’ Read more…

Winemaker and Managing Director, Louis Strydom, led winecurrent through the tasting sharing his vast experience and knowledge not only about this property, in which he’s been involved since 1998, but the Stellenbosch terroir in general. He oversees the entire portfolio of red and white wines. Louis presently holds the prestigious position of Chairman of the Cape Winemakers Guild.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Ernie Els ‘The Big Easy – White’ 2011
WO Western Cape $13.95 13.5% alcohol
Lemon pie filling and racy lime cordial on the nose, this splashes over the palate with a steady stream of mouth-watering flavour—ripe pineapple and white grapefruit mingling with minerality and hints of green tea. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced, lip-smackingly good finish. Pour as an aperitif or with fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Ernie Els ‘The Big Easy – Red’ 2010
WO Western Cape $19.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and black pepper provide segue to a nicely balanced, fruit-filled wash of juicy Bing cherry, black licorice and briary berry on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with generous texture and a moderating stream of juicy, tangy red currant throughout. Primarily Shiraz-Cab, there are also a number of Rhône varieties. Lovely sipped on its own and a versatile food wine, it pairs well with grilled red meat, pasta in tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
WO Stellenbosch $22.95 14.5% alcohol
This is a cracker—it’s cedar, ripe field berry fruit and graphite on the nose with a well-structured, endless wave of palate-coating, nicely balanced flavour throughout. Just released, there’s some toasty oak and vanilla still lurking, but the overall impression is cassis and sweet mulberry fruit mingling with bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture with an underpinning of supple tannin—what’s not to like? Aerate/decant two hours and pour with a serious slab of grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ernie Els ‘Proprietor’s Syrah’ 2010
WO Stellenbosch $31.25 14.0% alcohol
This rips from the glass with lifted aromas of black plum, aromatic bitters and spice-infused cherry. It’s full-bodied with a creamy texture and a gusher of full-bore, luscious flavour with sweet, ripe mulberry, vanilla and toasty notes adorned by excellent moderating red cherry acidity and spice galore. A very-limited production demands a purchase, if you have the opportunity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ernie Els ‘Proprietor’s Blend’ 2009
WO Stellenbosch $31.25 14.0% alcohol
The 2008 is available at the SAQ #11130265 at $31.25. There’s a complex, perfumed nose of pencil shavings, toast and dark berry fruit on this red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon-60% and Shiraz-20% with an even 5%-each split of Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s balanced and robust with good structure, a dollop of charm and endless wash of cassis and red currant wed with mocha and savoury notes. Hats off to winemaker Louis Strydom; it was tough to spit—pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ernie Els ‘Signature’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $77.95 14.0% alcohol
This terroir-driven, flagship red blend—primarily Cab Sauv-58% and Merlot-27%—highlights a perfumed bouquet of eucalyptus, dark cherry and savoury herbs and spice. It’s full flavoured and fruit driven with stylish, structured and concentrated red and black berry fruit, cassis and earthy notes washing over the palate and lip-smacking aftertaste. The eighteen months in new French oak has been deftly integrated. (Vic Harradine)

Jordan Estate WinesJordan Wine Estates

Jordan Wine Estates is labeled as Jardin in North America, however the wine inside the bottle is identical. Gary and Kathy Jordan have been fashioning fine wines since 1993 on a 300-year old farm property. He’s a geologist, she’s an economist and they both think and move at warp speed. Gary’s parents, Ted and Sheelagh, purchased the property in 1982, replanting vines to ‘classic varieties’ well suited to the varied aspects and soil types—terroir. His dad is still involved in day-to-day activities at the winery. Gary and Kathy worked internationally for two years gaining practical experience, also enrolling in the Masters program at UC Davis. They returned home to build the present, gravity-fed, wine cellar in 1992.

Winemaker Gary JordanFrom the Jordan hillside vineyards one has spectacular views of the surrounding landscape including a stunning, unique 360 panorama of Stellenbosch vineyards. With Jordan vineyards at varying altitudes, 150 to 410 metres above sea level, and facing a full north, south, east, west—situated on a high round promontory—this unique aspect is coupled with ideal and varied soils and sub-soils married to the newly planted vines. The soils and sub-soils are based on ancient Cape Granite, approximately 600-million-years old, ranging from well-drained, clay-loam to gravel and sandy top soil over a clay base. With cooling breezes and coastal fog from both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, the Mediterranean climate allows them optimum ripening and hang time ideally suited to the varietals planted. The day winecurrent visited and tasted, the calm, warm, lower slopes with plantings of red varieties turned into a windy, cool day as we reached the 450 metre mark and the Sauvignon Blanc vines.

**** drink now
Jardin Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 14.0% alcohol
Look for textbook Cab aromas with black currant and mint adorned by spice and dark toasty notes. This billows forth with a persistent, focused stream of cassis, chocolate-covered cherry and toasty notes. It’s medium weight with good texture and a lingering aftertaste layering on savoury spice and dark coffee underpinned by fine-grained tannin. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jardin ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2009
WO Stellenbosch $15.40 (663336) 14.0% alcohol
Released earlier, some bottles still remain on LCBO shelves. Toasty, nutty, spicy notes mingle with ripe orchard fruit aromas on the nose. Dry farmed on cool south- (it’s the southern hemisphere) and east-facing slopes, this dishes up a clean, crisp and refreshing mouthful of succulent white peach, ripe pear and racy, lemony, citrus notes. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a long and balanced, lip-smacking finish adorned by nutmeg and hazelnut undertones. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Jardin ‘The Nine Yards’ Chardonnay 2009
WO Stellenbosch $ 14.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, luscious and rich, this aptly named, low-yield, terroir-driven gem over delivers across the board. Kitchen spice and leesy nuances meld with toasty notes and minerality on the nose providing segue to a medium-full bodied, silky-textured river of luscious flavour on the palate and lengthy aftertaste—ripe apple, peel marmalade and Mirabelle plum underpinned by moderating, racy lemon acidity. This rested 12 months on its lees in French barrique with gentle barrel-rolling to increase texture and flavour—this is a viticulture and viniculture tour de force. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Jardin Merlot 2009
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 14.5% alcohol
Rich, ripe fruit from ten to twenty-year-old vines, 24 months in new and 2nd fill French barriques and the gentle hand of winemaker extraordinaire, Gary Jordan, coalesce in this balanced and structured Merlot. It’s brimming with flavour—black plum compote, dark berry fruit and spice-laden black Bing cherry mingling with espresso roast and earthy tones. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, the lingering aftertaste is framed by a supple tannin underpinning and moderating, lip-smacking acidity for balance. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Jardin ‘The Prospector’ Syrah 2008
WO Stellenbosch $ 14.5% alcohol
The name is taken from the various, now abandoned, tin mines in the area. An abundance of alluring aromas—spice-infused, dark berry fruit, sweet vanilla and savoury herbs and spice—presage a mellow, silky-smooth wash of briary berry, juicy black cherry and mocha on the palate replaying on the oaky, juicy finish. This spent 16 months in French and American oak barrels. It’s mid weight, well paced and good to go now on its own or poured with smoked, grilled back ribs and grilled root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Neil Ellis WinesNeil Ellis Wines

From their website: Mindful that no single vineyard can satisfy the needs of all grape varieties, Neil Ellis set out to identify distinct terroir in which individual varieties will excel. He placed the emphasis not only on the environment but also on caring viticultural practices by a dedicated team of growers which extends through to the winemaking practices. Today the journey of Neil Ellis Wines is not only of Neil Ellis anymore, but a team of young, dedicated winemakers harnessed in their pursuit of quality winemaking. After four decades of making wine, the next stage of the journey has begun with Neil’s son, Warren, sharing responsibilities as winemaker and viticulturist. Their avowed mission is: To make distinctive, refined wines that are expressive of their terroir and rank amongst South Africa’s finest.

The team at Neil Ellis Wines believes in responsible environmental practices. They aim to respect the soil, cut water use, recycle and reduce energy use and greenhouse emissions. They are a member of the IPW, a voluntary environmental sustainability scheme, and comply with their regulations. They strive to respect the soil, Cut water use, Recycle and Cut energy use. Read more on IPW (Integrated Production of Wine).

****1/2 drink now
Neil Ellis ‘Vineyard Selection – Barrel Fermented’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Coastal Region $19.95 13.5% alcohol
This dazzles the senses with aromas of exotic spice, wood smoke and kitchen spice. The palate’s treated to waves of mouth-filling flavour and silky-smooth texture with citrus, tropical fruit, fennel and hints of gooseberry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with a stylish, well balanced aftertaste that’s crisp, clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Neil Ellis ‘Aenigma’ 2008
WO Elgin $19.95 14.0% alcohol
Cool-climate Elgin helped produce this balanced, tangy red blend—61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 8% Cab Franc. There are lifted aromas of aromatic bitters, dark berry fruit and mixed spice box that herald a balanced, mid-weight rush of tangy red cherry and red currant adorned with nuances of underbrush and mocha. This really shines with meat-laden pizza and Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Neil Ellis ‘Vineyard Selection’ Grenache 2009
WO Piekenierskloof $55.95 14.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, dark toast and kitchen spice aromas intro this juicy, tangy number fashioned from 55-year-old, dry-farmed Grenache bush vines. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with good persistence, dishing up nerve and verve throughout. Look for a focused spine of acidity from red cherry and red currant flavour. It finishes in a blaze of racy red cherry/berry mingling with spice and herbs. Each sip is better than the previous and even better paired with meat and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Neil Ellis ‘Vineyard Selection’ Syrah 2007
WO Jonkershoek Valley $39.95 13.5% alcohol
Heavenly perfumed aromas of exotic spice, cracked black pepper and dark berry fruit open this structured, beautiful red. Nicely balanced and generously textured flavours roll over the palate and lingering finish in gentle waves—sweet, ripe mulberry, juicy, tangy black cherry and toasty char adorned with savoury herbs and a hint of earthiness. It’s mid-full weight, fruit-laden and oozing style and charm. (Vic Harradine)

MeerlustMeerlust

On July 3rd, 1693, the Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Stel, granted land to Henning Hüsing, who then named the farm Meerlust—roughly translated to, ‘pleasure by the sea’. Johannes Albertus Myburgh bought Meerlust in January 1757. His ownership marked the foundation of the Myburgh Dynasty. Today, the traditional dedication to the art of winemaking continues under the guidance of Hannes Myburgh, eighth generation custodian of this seventeenth-century national monument.

Meerlust, with its historic manor house, classic wine cellar, family cemetery, dovecote and bird sanctuary is situated fifteen kilometers south of Stellenbosch, with the blue crescent of False Bay a mere five kilometers away. The Estate is uniquely positioned for the production of wines with exceptional complexity and character. In the summertime, ocean breezes and evening mists roll in from the coast to cool the vineyards. The grapes ripen slowly, thus achieving full, concentrated varietal flavours. The soil consists of predominantly deep, well drained Hutton and Clovelly soil types, affording the vines excellent drought resistance and an ideal substrata for producing concentrated, complex wines. One hundred and ten hectares are planted with varieties including Chardonnay—the one white varietal is planted by the river running through the property providing an even cooler terroir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The estate is roughly 400 ha with 110 under vine.

The Meerlust Foundation has a mission to provide a safe and stimulating environment for the children of the farm workers. The program started years back as a small crèche, and has since 2000 developed into a program which has an educational, social skills and developmental focus. Currently the Foundation is managed by a social worker and employs 11 staff members. The Foundation is funded solely by Meerlust. The vision of the Foundation is to create an opportunity for every Meerlust child to be in a position to decide what he or she would like to do with his/her life. Over the last decade most of the children have completed at least five years more schooling then their parents had opportunity to complete. As well, a bottling plant is now in operation as a joint venture between the Meerlust Workers Trust and the Myburgh Family Trust.

****1/2 drink now
Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $34.95 14.5% alcohol
Dusty, earthy, rich black currant aromas spill from this medium-full bodied, rich and densely structured, cellar dweller. Only free-run juice used then aged 18 months in French oak, 80% new, 20% 2nd fill. Juicy and tangy on the palate, look for racy red currant, bright red cherry and black plum compote plus a perceptible tannin underpinning right through the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. This is has a solid core of ripe, juicy fruit, good acidity and years ahead of it—pop corks 2014 to 2018 for optimum enjoyment. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Meerlust Chardonnay 2009
WO Stellenbosch $32.50 13.5% alcohol
Cellarmaster Chris Williams touts 2009 as best vintage in 30 years. This was barrel fermented in 60% new, 40% 2nd fill French oak, with half by wild yeast, then barrel aged 12 months. Toasty, nutty and nutmeg on the nose, this bathes the palate in a lovely textured, mid-weight wash of racy lemon curd, a salad bowl of ripe orchard fruit and crisp, ruby red grapefruit. The finish lingers with a dry, lip-smacking adornment of racy citrus and tropical fruit. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Meerlust Merlot 2008
WO Stellenbosch $34.95 14.5% alcohol
Bolstered by 15% Cab Franc, this was sourced from 27-year-old, Merlot vines undergoing ruthless 40% green harvest a.k.a.dropping fruit early on to concentrate flavours in remaining bunches. Aromas of toasty oak and dark berry fruit segue a tangy, juicy river of fruit-laden flavour with black plum, red currant and sweet, ripe Bing cherry predominant and mingling with mocha, savoury herbs and spice. It’s mellow and approachable, delivering a robust taste experience capped off by a warm, red cherry aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Meerlust Pinot Noir 2010
WO Stellenbosch $37.95 13.5% alcohol
Heavily perfumed with exotic spice, slate, strawberry and red cherry, this dishes up a tangy, juicy mouthful of cranberry, red raspberry and spice-infused black plum interlaced with black pepper, earthiness and underbrush. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a persistent stream of balanced, red and dark fruit throughout. The 14 months in oak has been well integrated and the finish is lip-smacking good. Pour with smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Meerlust ‘Rubicon’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $27.15 14.5% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #10219823 at $27.15. Their flagship offering, this Bordeaux blend—74% Cab Sauv, 15% Merlot, 11% Cab Franc—is one of South Africa’s most recognizable reds. The complex nose leaps from the glass with a bouquet of mocha, toast and hints of mint-laden plummy notes. Mid weight with generous texture, it sports a wave of brambly fruit and juicy Bing cherry interwoven with savoury herbs and spice that replay on the dry, tannin-infused aftertaste. Drink 2015 to 2025—a ‘96 vintage was tasted alongside this; it was fresh and full of life. (Vic Harradine)

De Toren Private CellarDe Toren Private Cellar

The concept is pretty simple; two red wines, both made from 5 Bordeaux varieties,—no Carmenère—sourced from estate grapes on a stunningly picturesque 21.5 hectare vineyard overlooking False Bay on the Polkadraai Hills near Stellenbosch, South Africa. However, the manner in which these two wines are fashioned is anything but simple. Every imaginable, minute detail has been meticulously mapped and calculated in an effort to, “develop and re-define the Bordeaux concept and adapt it to be uniquely South African… achieving very complex, balanced and expressive wines.”

de Toren Owner, Emile den Dulk

With 14 different soil types identified and catalogued, they’ve planted 18 different clones with varying root stocks to the ideal aspect and soil type to capture the best the vine and terroir can offer. Vines are planted on an axis that allows maximum ripening, taking advantage of the prevailing cooling winds from the ocean that allow optimum hang time and phenolic ripening.

The wine is gravity fed, with a large elevator—see ‘tower’ in photo, hence the name ‘De Toren’—lifting wine to various levels so gravity can do its magic distributing to different segments of the efficiently designed winery. They use photo imaging to determine vigor in the vineyards and test individual vde Toren winemaker, Albie Kochines on their need for water. They not only have a temperature-controlled barrel-aging room, but have added a temperature-controlled room for malolactic fermentation in barrel. But in the end, the proof is in the glass, isn’t it. Their track record speaks for itself with local and international accolades and recognition—+90 points in Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, 5 stars from Platter and Decanter, Best Red Wine at Winex in South Africa with wines offered and sold at the prestigious Nederburg Auction, enough said, reviews follow.

****1/2 drink now
De Toren ‘Z’ 2009
WO Stellenbosch $32.95 (178194) 14.5% alcohol
The 2008 is available at select LCBO stores. The 2009 is available at the SAQ #10704837 at $26.55. The De Toren Z—pronounced zee—delivers a mouth-watering, tangy river of flavour that has good structure and underpinning in a drink-me-now style. Predominantly Merlot-56%, Cab Sauv-24% and Cab Franc-14%, aromas of dried, crushed berry fruit and kitchen spice herald palate-bathing flavours of black plum, ripe mulberry and racy red berry fruit wed with spice and mocha extending through the, balanced, lip-smacking finish. Mid-plus weight with good texture, each sip’s better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
De Toren ‘Fusion V’ 2009
WO Stellenbosch $49.00 (220335) 15.0% alcohol
There are a few bottles of the 2005 vintage remaining at the LCBO. Perfumed and alluring, complex aromas waft easily from this flagship, iconic red blend—Cab Sauv-60%, Cab Franc-12%, Malbec-11%, Merlot-10%, Petit Verdot-7%—floral notes, piquant herbs and spice interweave with dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate. It’s rich and luscious on the palate with a steady stream of succulent black, briary berry, cassis and black licorice replaying on the lengthy aftertaste, It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured with a solid supple tannin underpinning, framed by excellent moderating acidity. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, or cellar 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Reyneke WinesReyneke Wines

From the Reyneke website :Reyneke Wines began in 1998 when Johan Reyneke Jr. produced the first wines sourced from the family 35 ha farm facing the historic town of Stellenbosch overlooking surrounding mountain ranges and False Bay. Vineyards are on north easterly slopes at 250 to 350 meters above sea level. Johan moved first to farming organically then to farming and producing wine in accordance with biodynamic principles. He is currently one of only a few winemakers in South Africa who produce biodynamic wines and, according to the Platter Guide, is the only bio-dynamic certified winery in South Africa. Johan’s aim has always been to express the uniqueness of the farm's situation – the deep soil dotted with early stone age hand axes; the vines- some 40 years old; the crisp upland air—into the bottle. "The intention here is to interfere as little as possible, to allow nature to be the real maker of the wine and to truly produce terroir specific wines of the highest quality."

Winemaker Rutiger GretschelBiodynamic Agriculture is an approach to sustainable agriculture based on the philosophy of Rudolph Steiner. Steiner built up his knowledge from keen observation of plant and animal forms, of traditional peasant practice, and from scientific study and deep spiritual research. Biodynamic farmers use a range of specially formulated herbal, mineral and organic preparations to enhance the soil, boost plant and animal life and increase fertility. They develop farms into unique and distinct individualities that use the minimum of external inputs to produce high quality food, fiber and timber with no negative impact on the environment. The farmers work with natural and cosmic cycles, rhythms and forces that regulate all life on earth to create a harmonious whole. In the cellar, wines should not be ‘made’ and the use of enzymes, protein- and cold stabilizations should be avoided. Specific cellar practices should be done in accordance with the natural and cosmic rhythms. Organic farming is based on the assumption that a healthy soil is a much better way through which the above ideals can be sustained. Pests and disease are seen as a sign of imbalance in nature, and an effort must be made to remedy the cause rather than treat the symptoms.

Wine Advocate (Robert Parker Jr.) has rated Reyneke wines as high as 93 and 94 points, Wine Spectator at 90 and 91, Platter at 5 stars and Lufthansa serves their wine to First Class passengers. I urge you strongly to tuck their name away and to try them, given the chance.

The ‘Reyneke Organic’ range is value-priced wine with fruit sourced from organic, not necessarily bio-dynamic, vines.

**** drink now
Reyneke Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 12.0% alcohol
Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic, this showcases crisp aromas of mixed herbs, citrus and mineral before unleashing a linear, well-focused stream of lime cordial, orchard fruit and peel marmalade. It’s mid weight with a creamy texture and clean, crisp aftertaste. Sip on its own or serve with mesclun salad under crumbled, grilled goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Reyneke Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 13.0% alcohol
Opening with perfumed, honeyed orchard fruit and quince, this sports a delectable wash of key lime pie, mineral notes and lemon curd with ripe, honeydew melon. It’s medium-bodied with generous texture from partial malolactic, brief time in seasoned oak and a short skin ferment. It’s also quite delicious and nicely balanced with a bone-dry aftertaste. This is Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Reyneke ‘Reserve White’ 2010
WO Stellenbosch $32.95 12.5% alcohol
The fruit is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, selected by row, barrel fermented and aged 15 months in French oak, 80% new. It’s fully flavoured, full bodied and rich with complex and elegant flavours of blood orange, mineral and slate, and white grapefruit. This is mellow and delicious now and will broaden even more in bottle. There’s good texture, deft balance and a refreshing, clean finish. It’s Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Reyneke ‘cornerstone’ 2010
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 14.5% alcohol
The perfumed aromas are marked by high-toned notes of roses, dark berry fruit, savoury herbs and spice. It delivers a solid, rich core of luscious fruit—ripe mulberry and dark, juicy, Bing cherry wreathed in black licorice, dark chocolate and espresso roast extending through the long, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic. It’s also creamy smooth and well balanced sporting oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Reyneke Syrah 2010
WO Stellenbosch $18.95 14.0% alcohol
The colourful nose, white pepper, black cherry and rose petal, provides segue for a river of succulent, balanced flavour with sweet, ripe mulberry and sour cherry mingling with savoury, earthy tones. There’s good mouth feel, mid to full weight, a solid underpinning of ripe, fine-grained tannin and moderating, mouth-watering acidity for balance. The lingering aftertaste provides a replay layering on über-savoury herb and spice with dark, berry fruit. It’s Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Reyneke ‘Organic – Red’ Shiraz 2009
WO Coastal Region $13.95 14.0% alcohol
Fresh, fruity and friendly, this bistro-styled, organic red delivers a racy, tangy wash of sour cherry and red currant interlaced with spice-laden black plum. It’s light on its feet and finishes with a lip-smacking surge of zesty, crisp, ruby-red grapefruit tanginess. Great to sip on a warm summer day or anytime paired with back ribs grilled and brushed with spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Reyneke ‘Organic – White’ 2011
WO Coastal Region $13.95 13.0% alcohol
This off-dry, organic blend—Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc—introduces itself with gorgeous nose of floral notes, tropical fruit and hints of slate and mineral. A wash of fruit-driven flavour coats the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste—succulent white peach, ripe pineapple and lemon pie filling. It’s medium bodied, well textured with the quality-price ratio well in your favour. Pairs well with red curry chicken or lamb biryani. (Vic Harradine)