While one might easily slide in and out of a three-day wine competition or a week-long wine junket without soaking up the big picture of a region’s or a country’s wine scene, a ten-week, wine-focused visit to one particular country or region offers a broad, in-depth, introspective experience. For a variety of reasons, not many wine writers or critics attempt it—ten weeks away from home is inconvenient, often not possible, and extremely expensive. Aside from innate curiosity and a desire to expand my wine experiences and knowledge, the overwhelming allure was to escape the freezing depths of a Canadian winter traveling to South Africa during the toasty-warm heights of their reversal-of-seasons summer—full disclosure.While still enjoying occasional flashbacks and fond memories, here’s what changed the way I now think about South Africa wine, how I’ll approach future purchases and why I encourage winecurrent readers to add the Cape winelands to their bucket list.
Without hesitation or reservation, it’s amongst the most beautiful winelands in the world. Enjoy awe-inspiring, rolling green hills, dotted with vineyards and orchards and occasional mountain peaks. The winery buildings are a treasure trove of white-washed, well-maintained historical sites dating back decades, even centuries, interspersed with newly-minted, eye-popping, architecturally stunning tasting rooms, lodgings and restaurants. Many have weekend farm markets with local produce, handicrafts, breads, jams, wine etc. Just driving by places like Paarl, Franschhoek or Stellenbosch along well-maintained, well-marked roadways is a stunning, memorable, visual treat.
- The expected bell curve was in full force when looking back at notes of over 400 wines tasted on this trip—a small number better forgotten, a small number stunning and memorable with a neat bulge around ‘good wines’.
More enlightening were the wineries and grape varieties that pushed their way to the top. Some winery names familiar, having distribution in Canada via provincial Liquor Boards or more limited exposure via consignment sales through savvy wine agencies, some not. They’re all mentioned in the previous six winecurrent South Africa Special Features along with wine reviews and ratings. There were four grape varieties that shone—Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. High-end Pinotage also belongs in this category and it offers good value. Chenin Blanc can be dry or sweet, both stunningly good. Great Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was found in newer, cooler wine regions or climbing ever higher up the hills and mountains of well-established ones. Careful handling of Shiraz—low yields, minimal new oak, cooler sites—also produced excellent results. The exception here is Swartland as they produce exciting Shiraz, and fabulous Grenache, from sites one wouldn’t consider cool. And finally, a huge surprise was the quality and value hidden under the wire hoods of MCC wines—Methode Cap Classique—South Africa’s best kept wine secret, sparkling wine made in the Champagne method. Producers Laborie, Boschendal and Villiera Wines easily come to mind.
Winemakers, viticulturists and winery owners were amiable, vibrant and wine-world savvy. They’d studied and worked in, and traveled to, other countries; they bench-marked their wine against the best the world had to offer. Most have heartily embraced ‘terroir’, actively assessing and accessing regions and vineyard sites to meet individual needs for each particular variety—a particular variety being grown successfully on a site for decades doesn’t preclude finding a better one. Most were reducing the use of new oak and many considering lowering yields. They employ sustainable agriculture and winemaking practices, with one, Reyneke, certified bio-dynamic. Many have embarked on winery-specific programs to lower their carbon footprint, utilize solar power, install waste-water management systems and preserve their native fynbos vegetation. There are a number of programs and initiatives with whom many align themselves including SWSA-Sustainable Wine South Africa—a commitment to sustainable, eco-friendly production, health and safety of permanent and temporary workers, water usage, BWI-Biodiversity and Wine Initiative—to protect natural habitat, encourage wine producers to farm sustainably and express this in their wines, WIETA-Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association—governs employment standards and conditions aiming for 60% grower membership by 2014. By clicking on the above links, one can view the label associated with that initiative and look for a facsimile on bottles of South African wine considered for purchase.
Although apartheid was officially abolished in 1990, there are myriad country-wide social challenges. Leveling the playing field for black and coloured people, who make up approximately 90% of the population, is an ongoing challenge. Before going, I read about alleged abuses reported in the Cape winelands concerning wine and fruit orchard farms, but can only share with you what I observed. Keep in mind; this wasn’t the focus of my visit. One of the charges was that workers are not properly protected from pesticide spray. As I was there at harvest, no one was spraying grapes. Another charge concerned poor working conditions and unfair treatment of workers and their families. In South Africa, social programs come with the territory for winery owners and many of the initiatives either involve or are financed by wineries. Many provide permanent housing for full-time workers, a pre-school facility and trained staff for their younger children, called a crèche, after-school facilities, some with computer labs, for school-age children and bus transportation to and from school. Many offer scholarships, have programs turning over part of the farm or profits to workers and financially support projects such as the Pebbles Project, Anna Foundation, Street Smart and others. Still others have embarked on a mission finding permanent housing for workers, with some offering outright ownership. Winery owners and managers I met demonstrated active, financial, generous support toward better working conditions for their workers,
- We did not receive, nor do we expect to receive, any compensation or favours from the following businesses. Travel guides such as Fodor’s and DK Eyewitness will point you toward the more popular sites, eateries and accommodations in Cape Town and the Cape winelands. In Cape Town we stayed at the downtown Holiday Inn Express finding it conveniently located within walking distance of many tourist sites, safe and offering good value including limited free internet time, full hot breakfast and the best customer service imaginable. Rooms are small, but impressively efficient and we managed to get a room with two beds, heeding the warnings of the tiny double beds mentioned by many on tripadvisor. In the Cape winelands we sought and easily found self-catering accommodations through web searches.
- Although most major car rental agencies are listed, they’re expensive and didn’t offer unlimited mileage. Through a good friend, we were introduced to a company that arranges car rental, though they don’t own autos themselves. It turned out to be a wonderful experience and a company I’m happy to recommend. The name of the company is aroundaboutcars. No matter the rental company, be prepared for an unfamiliar number of options for insurance and a number of unfamiliar taxes. We trusted them and took their advice and found them to be trustworthy.
- Many wineries, especially those within an hour or so drive of Cape Town—Constantia, Franschhoek, Paarl, Stellenbosch, Hermanus—have restaurants serving lunch or dinner or both. Many of the Cape’s fine-dining establishments are connected with wineries. Here are four where we ate that offered fresh local ingredients, good service, excellent cuisine, relaxed dining and terrific value.
Fairview Winery’s ‘Goatshead Restaurant’ near Paarl, open daily 9 am – 5 pm—feed the goats of ‘Goats do Roam’ fame, sample the cheese from the vineyard cheesery and enjoy a relaxed, light lunch and wine either dining in doors or al fresco. There’s an incredible selection of breads, cheese, jams and condiments for take-away. Fairview
Glen Carlou’s ‘Zen Restaurant’ near Paarl, open daily 11 am – 3 pm—relaxed dining with one of the most spectacular valley views imaginable enjoying fine-dining creations from chef Hennie van der Merwe. Visit the fabulous on-premise Hess Museum of Contemporary Art. Glen Carlou
Dornier Wines’ ‘Bodega Restaurant’ near Stellenbosch, open daily noon – 4pm—Chef Neil Norman fashions his seasonal menu from locally sourced ingredients while the setting is architecturally stunning. A fabulous pictorial room of the Dornier family is attached. Accommodations available in the Dornier Homestead. Dornier
Newton Johnson’s ‘Heaven Restaurant’, near Hermanus, open 9 am – 3 pm Tuesday – Sunday for breakfast and lunch. Amiable Chef, Stefan Louw, dishes up locally sourced, bistro-styled cuisine from his open kitchen while you enjoy stunning views of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley from the Heaven restaurant, perched high in the Babelonstoring Mountains. Newton Johnson
Time flew by us, but left a treasure trove of memories. They centre on South Africans met and their unfailing welcoming and positive attitude; the stunning visual beauty of the country; the many fascinating, some haunting, historical and cultural sites; wines tasted in the company of Cape wineland icons and those just beginning to make their mark. We arrived home with a case or two of wonderful South Africa wine and a lifetime or two of wonderful South Africa reminiscences.