The case for a resurgent Pinotage, South Africa’s native grape, is becoming quite compelling. There’s serious movement afoot to produce structured, complex Pinotage by some of the best producers and most-respected wine personalities in South Africa. They wish to showcase the quality and value this uniquely South African grape can deliver. Pinotage a cross between two Vitis vinifera varieties—Pinot Noir and Cinsault—so not a hybrid. Cinsault was also known in South Africa as Hermitage, hence the name Pinotage. And yes, ‘Herminoir’ was considered. It was crossed by U of Stellenbosch’s first Professor of Viticulture, Dr. Abraham Izak Perold, in 1925. Dr. Perold became an employee of KWV, who, coincidentally, are now in the thick of this serious Pinotage movement with ‘The Mentors’ series gaining kudos. Charles Back of Fairview also has a stunning ‘Primo’ Pinotage. The Pinotage movement’s spearheaded by founder and Chairman Beyers Truter—formerly of Kanonkop, now Beyerskloof—and other committee members of the Pinotage Association. There are also those who feel it should be ripped up or used only in blends, usually referred to as a ‘Cape blend’. Others, particularly Canadians, feel it should be immersed and cloaked in coffee flavour. The wine-consumer jury is still out. If you’re interested and willing to consider fresh evidence, you’ll need to taste premium Pinotage.
Although you often see it referred to as South Africa’s ‘signature grape’, I believe, for now, that’s a misnomer. For example, with a restaurant’s ‘signature dish’ it’s the client, not the restaurant, who decides signature dishes via the dish’s popularity, and uproar if removed from the menu. It has to be more than unique to earn the ‘signature’ mantle; it has to be unique and excellent in the eye and taste of clients. Pinotage isn’t there yet, but that may be changing. Tasting any of the following three wines, and there are others, will allow you to decide if the ‘signature grape’ claim deserves to be authenticated or not.
Fairview ‘Primo’ Pinotage
WO Coastal Region $36.95 14.5% alcohol
An ardent Pinotage aficionado, Charles Back has spent a good part of his life seeking ideal Pinotage vineyards from which to source his ‘Primo’ red—hence the large ‘Coastal’ appellation of this wine. Perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit, baking spice and espresso roast abound on the nose of this full-bodied, flavour-laden red. There’s excellent carpentry and deft balance throughout with flavours of ripe mulberry, spiced black plum and bittersweet chocolate front and centre. With good acidity, a supple tannin underpinning and a lengthy lip-smacking finish, it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
KWV ‘The Mentors’ Pinotage 2009
WO Stellenbosch $39.95 14.5% alcohol
Gracefully balanced and brimming with charm, this offers up perfumed aromas of red berry fruit, spice and black liquorice interwoven with black plum compote. It’s mid-full weight with a silky-smooth mouth feel and rich, complex flavours—juicy Bing cherry, ripe blueberry and spice-infused currant mingling with toast and mocha. Lip-smacking acidity, sweet, ripe tannin and a lengthy, fruit-laden aftertaste coalesce in this magical expression of Pinotage. (Vic Harradine)
KWV ‘The Mentors’ Pinotage 2010
WO Stellenbosch $39.95 14.0% alcohol
Exotic Asian spice, rich, dark berry fruit and dark chocolate on the nose, there’s a balanced and beautiful river of palate-bathing flavour with tangy sour cherry balancing off sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with spice and espresso roast. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture, finesse and a brushstroke of elegance. It finishes with red cherry and a lick of supple tannin—aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)