Vic is still in South Africa and for the next few weeks, presently tasting and spitting his way through wineries near Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek. Even though it’s harvest, winery principals, managers, marketers and winemakers gave most generously of their time providing winecurrent subscribers with a rare glimpse into the history of the Cape winelands along with an interesting take on what the future holds. There’s a brief introduction to each winery and a number of wines reviewed that you access via the link below. Many are, or will be, available through agents and in LCBO, SAQ and other Canadian retail stores. You’ll most likely learn a great deal and, if you have any thoughts of a visit, you’ll get a feel for the treat in store.
Winery of Good Hope
This winery is a finely woven tapestry of: 1) dynamic, successful brands—Winery of Good Hope, Land of Hope, Vinum Africa and the flagship Radford Dale; 2) terroir—undulating hills with vines in ideal regions and a cooling south easterly blowing on carefully chosen aspects situated on diverse soil types and; 3) myriad, self-initiated social and enviro-friendly programs that mark this winery dynamic, diverse and distinctive. 
Viticulturist/Winemaker Jacques de Klerk provided an in-depth tour, pun intended, examination of the various soil and sub-soil types, especially the iron-rich, ferricrete or ‘Koffieklip’—a.k.a. coffee stone—pebbles covering sections of vineyards in Stellenbosch underlain with clay. There are also carefully protected areas of fynbos—drought-tolerant, extremely hardy, fine-leafed indigenous vegetation including proteas and gladiolus—encouraged to grow after being choked out by plants introduced decades ago, many from Australia. The tasting was handled by co-owner Alex Dale outlining three unique wine regions from which fruit for their wine is sourced. The vines at the winery gain a WO Stellenbosch stamp, but are uniquely situated within the smaller, not-yet-officially recognized ‘Helderberg’ area. WO Elgin is the up and coming, cooler climate area where Alex sources Pinot Noir. Finally, and for him the most exciting, the hot, dry, rugged terrain of Perdeberg Mountain in Swartland providing fabulous fruit for some of their top reds. Their wines are balanced and stylish with meticulous attention to detail producing discernible typicity and delectable wines. What’s not to like?
Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 (739995) 13.5% alcohol
The recently released, highly regarded ’09 remains in select LCBO stores. Balanced and fresh with natural acidity, this was sourced from low-yielding, 30- to 35-year-old bush vines. Yellow-gold hued with a perfumed nose of orange blossom and honeyed white fruit—pear, apple and succulent peach—this dishes up a rich and luscious mouthful of mid-full weight, nicely textured flavours. Beautifully balanced waves of ripe melon, pineapple and citrus wash over the palate and through the lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Radford Dale ‘Renaissance’ Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $42.95 13.0% alcohol
Complex, fruit-laden and elegant, this sports highly perfumed aromas of apricot, spiced yellow plum and lemongrass mingling with key lime pie. On the palate it’s layered and nicely structured with a salad bowl of tropical fruit underpinned by oodles of bracing, mouth-watering lemon zest followed by a crisp refreshing finish—it was tough to spit. This was barrel fermented using indigenous yeast with extended lees contact. (Vic Harradine)
Radford Dale ‘Freedom’ Pinot Noir 2010
WO Elgin $42.95 13.0% alcohol
Handled with care and minimal intervention, this flirts with 5 stars delivering a dazzling red with aromas and flavours that leave little doubt as to the varietal. From two Burgundy clones—777 and 115—the cooler region of Elgin helped produce this stylish, understated gem. Earthy underbrush, red cherry and spice-laden black plum aromas segue a balanced and beautiful wash of sour cherry and racy red currant with wisps of toasty oak interlaced with spice and slate on the palate and dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Not filtered or fined, give it another year in bottle and/or two-hour aeration/decant. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
Land of Hope Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $25.95 14.0% alcohol
Land of Hope is a trust providing education to workers and their families. The wines receive high praise and are highly sought after. Barrel fermented with 100% malolactic fermentation, this spent 16 months in 1/3 new oak barrels and a further 2 years in bottle before release. Rub-hued and brimming with alluring minty, red and dark berry fruit on the nose, it drenches the palate with a textured wash of complex and concentrated black currant, savoury spice and fennel underpinned by still-resolving tannin and framed by mouth-watering, red-fruit-laden acidity. Pop the cork 2014-2017 and pour with grilled, rosemary-rubbed lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Delaire Graff Estate
This new winery has two renowned restaurants, one providing a most spectacular view of the nearby Banhoek Valley a.k.a. ‘scary valley’ named for the number of early settlers lost there due to wild animals of the time—lions, tigers, leopards—and escaped slaves fearing capture plus treacherous cliffs on the one-track trail. There’s also a 5-star lodge and spa on site. It’s a popular destination for many locals and tourists and within a one-hour drive from Cape Town. 
The following is taken from their website—Delaire Graff Estate has achieved what owner and globally renowned visionary Laurence Graff, Chairman of Graff Diamonds International, had in mind when he acquired this magnificent Cape Winelands property in 2003 and vowed to transform it into South Africa’s most desirable art, hospitality and wine destination. Today, with two outstanding restaurants, a state-of-the-art winery, exclusive Lodges, a destination Spa and two luxury boutiques, the transformation of this piece of paradise, nestled between majestic mountains and overlooking the vineyards of Stellenbosch, one of the world’s leading wine destinations, is now complete. Striking Cape Dutch architecture meets African artifacts and styling, with original artworks from Laurence Graff’s personal collection on display throughout, representing some of South Africa’s finest contemporary artists. To access their website, Click here… 
Delaire Graff Chardonnay 2010
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 14.0% alcohol
Toasty oak, nutty nuances and vanilla on the nose, this delivers a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of orchard fruit—crisp, green apple, ripe pear and tangy lemon—interwoven with nutmeg toasty, oaky notes. The clean refreshing finish showers lemon-lime tang and nectarine throughout. Better from 2012 to 2014 poured with roast chicken or dried-fruit-stuffed roast pork tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)
Delaire Graff ‘Coastal Cuvee’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Coastal Region $24.95 13.0% alcohol
This is rich and complex with a brilliantly textured and creamy mouth feel. It dishes up a river of lemongrass and herbaceous notes mingling with white peach and tropical fruit while a persistent, delicious spine of lemon pie filling and ripe pineapple runs over the palate and lip-smacking aftertaste. Hints of tropical fruit and gooseberry also peek through. There’s a splash of 4% Semillon in here that was barrel fermented 3 months. (Vic Harradine)
Delaire Graff Shiraz 2009
WO Stellenbosch $21.95 14.0% alcohol
Dark fruit—cherry, plum and black currant—and black pepper aromas segue a wash of ripe succulent fruit. Look for red and black currant and sweet, ripe and juicy Bing cherry interlaced with tar, smoke and black licorice on the palate. It’s medium bodied, with good texture and a fruit-filled, mid-length aftertaste. Pour alongside a slab of smoked, grilled back ribs generously brushed with spicy, rib sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Delaire Graff ‘Botmaskop’ 2008
WO Stellenbosch $29.95 14.5% alcohol
This was the top drop offered up for tasting. It’s a red blend—primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, with bits of Shiraz, Merlot and others—that wafted easily from the glass with alluring aromas of cedar, mulberry and cherry cordial. Tangy, succulent and juicy on the palate, there’s sour cherry, ripe black plum and spiced black cherry galore. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced with a fruity, tangy lingering finish underpinned by still-resolving, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Ken Forrester Vineyards
This historic property, near Stellenbosch on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, was originally granted as ‘Scholtzenhof’ in 1689 with vines planted in 1692. The inimitable winemaker, raconteur and present winery owner, Ken Forrester, took full charge of this tasting with a generous offering of wines and a brief engaging story of the winery including how and when he became enthralled and involved. Just as Mandela and others were putting an end to apartheid in 1993 and the masses were guardedly holding their breath on the outcome, Ken and his lovely wife, already successful restaurateurs, bravely seized the opportunity to purchase this derelict property while many others dithered over whether the country might fall into complete chaos. In Ken’s words, “I thought people would continue to get up in the morning, brush their teeth and get on with their lives, so this looked like a lot of hard work and a great opportunity; we jumped in.” 
Almost thirty years on, the wines are a huge national and international success with myriad awards, trophies and accolades. The winery’s underpinned by strict adherence to the WIETA code of ethics including fair treatment of workers. They also support the ‘Pebbles Project’—a humanitarian project funded by wineries and others to assist land workers’ children, especially those disadvantaged by health issues, e.g. fetal alcohol syndrome, in receiving optimum educational opportunities. Many so-called ‘crèches’ are located on winery properties in the Stellenbosch area providing proper day care and enrichment activities for young children by Pebbles Project-trained staff. Ken Forrester wines also carry the ‘Integrity and Sustainability’ seal. Forrester estate vineyards receive the cooling south-easterly winds a.k.a. ‘The Cape Doctor’ originating from False Bay and passing over the vineyards almost daily in summer decreasing the usually quite-warm temperature by 3 or 4 C. As I write this in Stellenbosch the air is still, it’s sunny and the expected high is 32 C. A windy day yesterday produced a high of 27 C. This cooling wind, 30- to +40-year-old, Chenin Blanc vines, varied aspects and soil conditions mark Forrester’s terroir as unique and advantageous. No surprise the wines are admired and highly sought after.
Ken Forrester ‘Reserve’ Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.10 14.5% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #11093126 at $14.95. Complex, layered and rich, it offers up an involved nose of honeyed orchard fruit, nutty notes and quince jelly mingling with wisps of sweet vanilla. Palate-coating flavours abound—peel marmalade, racy lime cordial and yellow plum—carried along on a medium-full bodied, generously textured underpinning followed by a mouth-watering, crisp finish. This has ageability—drinking now to 2018—is versatile with food—try pan-seared garlic prawns—and is value packed. Did I mention it’s delicious? (Vic Harradine)
Ken Forrester ‘The FMC – Forrester Meinert Chenin’ Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $59.00 (037291) 14.5% alcohol
The ‘08 is available via LCBO Vintages (above) while the SAQ, #10703033 has the ‘09 at $60.00 in stores. Fashioned by Ken Forrester and his highly respected winemaker friend, Martin Meinert, from primarily hand-picked, single-vineyard, +40-year-old, low-yielding bush vines, this leaps from the glass with a profusion of aromas—tropical fruit, honey, apricot and vanilla. Mouth-watering, palate-coating flavours roll in endless waves—quince, peel marmalade, blood orange and lemon zest—over the palate and through the luscious, lingering, crisp aftertaste. It’s complex, structured, elegant and a wine for your bucket list. (Vic Harradine)
Petit Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Western Cape $14.25 13.5% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #10702997 at $14.25. Tropical fruit and floral notes on the nose, this dishes up a crisp, clean and refreshing wash of citrus, peach and tropical fruit on the palate. Its mid weight with good mouth feel and a dry, mouth-watering finish of white grapefruit mingling with nectarine. Pour on its own as an aperitif, with pan-seared white fish or grilled and curried garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Petit Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2011
WO Western Cape $14.25 13.5% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #11155171 at $14.25. With Cabernet sourced from Stellenbosch for structure and Merlot from Robertson for the soft black plum flavour, this 60/40 red blend strikes all the right notes for a mellow, harmonious, value-packed gem. Perfumed on the nose with dark berry fruit and wisps of spice, the juicy, ripe flavours wash over the palate with briary berry, dark chocolate and black, juicy cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a tangy, juicy, nicely balanced aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Ken Forrester ‘The Renegade’ 2006
WO Western Cape $23.45 14.5% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #10703084. This blend of traditional Rhône varieties—45% Shiraz-44% Grenache-11% Mourvèdre—jumps from the glass with robust aromas of spiced dark berry fruit, earthiness and gamy notes. It’s rich and concentrated from the get-go with a gusher of palate-coating dark briary berry and spice-infused black plum interlaced with dark, bittersweet chocolate framed by good acidity and still-perceptible tannin for a good underpinning. Hand harvested and dry land farmed, it offers a juicy tangy red blend that’s food friendly and drinking well now. (Vic Harradine)
Ken Forrester ‘The Gypsy’ 2007
WO Western Cape $59.00 (234237) 14.5% alcohol
This is available in the LCBO (above) and also available at the SAQ #10703148 at $54.50. A blend of 60% Syrah and 40%, over-50-year-old, low-yielding Grenache, this is layered, rich and complex. An involved bouquet of dark, luscious cherry/berry and espresso roast herald a stylish river of flavour bathing the palate in heavily textured waves—sweet, ripe mulberry, raisin and prune and black plum compote. It’s medium-plus bodied with a lengthy finish over-delivering on all counts. Pop the cork 2015-2020 with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Rust En Vrede
Rust En Vrede, translated from Afrikaans is ‘Rest and Peace’. It was first farmed in 1694 and after many owners purchased by the Englebrecht family, Jannie and Ellen, after lying derelict for decades. Their first wines were produced in 1978. It was a privilege to meet Jannie, father of present owner Jean Englebrecht, in Banff, Canada some twenty years ago. Jannie is a gregarious, giant of a man having played over 70 matches for South Africa’s national rugby team, the Springboks. He also possessed a talent for spotting talent—he hired South African Champion Winemaker and red wine specialist, Kevin Arnold. Between them, they set the foundation for South Africa’s first, and for a number of years arguably the best, red-wine-only winery. 
John Shuttleworth was named head chef at their restaurant in September 2011, after Chef David Higgs departed. John was formerly David’s assistant. The restaurant was named 61st on the 2011 San Pellegrino list of the world’s best 100 restaurants. They also serve a popular and delightful lunch with only one item on the menu—a delicious steak frites with green salad and a glass of red wine sourcing the majority of beef from their own property in the Kalahari Desert and herbs and vegetables from a winery-side garden. The tasting room and outside venue provided for lunch is a popular spot with locals, tourists and international visitors, as is the formal dining restaurant—open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner. Father Jannie has moved to Hermanus taking on a much-reduced role at the winery leaving his son, Jean, to take care of day-to-day operations. The winemaking team, now headed by Coenie Snyman, has kept its lustre at home and in international markets with sales and distribution reportedly strong and the medals and accolades pouring in. All the grapes grown on this Helderberg-area property are red with a focus on Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Rust En Vrede Merlot 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 14.5% alcohol
Black plum and spice-laden dark, field berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a huge mouthful of dark, juicy fruit with sweet, ripe mulberry, black currant and Bing cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel, good balance and a lingering fruit-laden finish underpinned by a solid tannin structure. This was aged 14 months in French oak, 50% new. Better after a two-hour aeration/decant or an additional 2 years in cellar poured with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Rust En Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and luscious with excellent structure and a long life ahead of it. Aromas of cedar, eucalyptus, graphite and black currant segue a focused stream of mouth-watering, palate-coating cassis, briary berry and spice mingling with black licorice and espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish of chocolate, cherry and still-resolving tannin. Six clones of Cab Sauvignon were fermented and aged separately for 18 months in French oak, one-third new, then blended, bottled and held an additional nine months before release. Enough tannin here to warrant a three-hour decant or three additional years in the cellar. (Vic Harradine)
Rust En Vrede Shiraz 2009
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 15.0% alcohol
Dark ripe berry fruit garnished with mocha and vanilla dominate the aromas on this ripe, sweet, fruit-filled Shiraz. Shielded by mountains from both the Cape Doctor south easterly winds and the south westerlies, and aided by an ideal vintage, fruit was allowed to reach maximum maturity. Persistent waves of concentrated, sweet, briary berry, ripe mulberry and kirsch liqueur wash over the palate and lingering, luscious aftertaste. It’s medium-plus bodied and nicely textured with a robust finish garnished with considerable small-grained tannin. Aged 18 months in 60% French and 40% American oak. Good to go 2013 to 2018 or now after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside a grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Rust En Vrede ‘Estate’ 2009
WO Stellenbosch $37.95 (997742) 15.0% alcohol
A few bottles of the ‘07 remain on LCBO shelves while the SAQ #11154961 has more at $35.50. Reflecting a close approximation to the amount of each variety planted at Rust En Vrede, this ‘Estate’ red blend is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Shiraz, 8% Merlot. Heavily perfumed aromas of kitchen spice and black currant make way for an approachable-now river of satin-smooth, medium-plus-weight flavours including red and black currant, dark, juicy, minty cherry and red licorice. It finishes with a rush of nicely balanced fruit and spice with wisps of toasty oak and savoury herbs.
Rust En Vrede ‘Single Vineyard’ Syrah 2009
WO Stellenbosch $99.95 15.0% alcohol
Only 107 cases of 12 were made from 14-year-old vines in the tiny, 2.3 hectare, Block 7. Aromas of exotic spice and dark berry fruit spill from this stylish Syrah and introduce silky smooth flavours washing in endless waves—black plum compote, spiced black raspberry and cherry cordial. Vinified at an über-high, ripe grape, sugar content, it was then aged 18 months in 50% American and 50% French oak, 75% new. This is full bodied and fully textured with a long, mouth-watering aftertaste sporting hints of sweet vanilla and succulent dark fruit—it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
Rust En Vrede ‘1694 Classification’ Syrah 2007
WO Stellenbosch $149.95 15.0% alcohol
An alluring bouquet of dark chocolate, black licorice and espresso roast mingling with graphite replay on the palate along with oodles of layered and luscious briary berry, cassis and spiced black plum along with hints of raisin. This is stylish and structured with a lengthy, balanced finish layering on wisps of toasty oak and sweet tannin with all fairly well in check. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2018. Two additional years in cellar won’t hurt, either. (Vic Harradine)
Dornier Wine Estate
Seated in the courtyard of the Dornier Bodega Restaurant, housed in one of the oldest buildings of Stellenbosch and receiving some 2000 diners per month, one can conduct a wine tasting before or during dinner while basking in what must be one of the most visually appealing places on earth. The stunning architecture of their winery reflects off the water while sitting nestled in the splendour of a verdant mountainside backdrop. Co-owner Raphael Dornier conducted the winecurrent tasting before lunch explaining how his artist father, Christoph, first conceived of all this, purchasing the property in the turbulent mid-nineties. He was a man of fortitude and vision as the winery was completed in 2003 and the results are nothing short of stunning. Dornier continues to be family owned. 
They take their Social Responsibility initiatives as seriously as they do their wine. They are a member of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative contributing to the sustainable cultivation of vineyards and protection of local fynbos and since 2010 their bottles carry the Integrity and Sustainability seal. They provide financial support to the ‘Pebbles Project’ through their ‘50 Yen’ initiative, thus providing support to children with special education needs while their Bodega Restaurant is often a top-10 supporter of ‘Street Smart’, a group of organizations that work with street children. As well, through and with the ‘Anna Foundation’, Dornier invests in the future of children offering an after-school facility for Grade R to 12 students whose parents are permanently employed by Dornier Wines. It opened in 2010 and is run by the ‘Anna Foundation’. Through their 3 R’s program they offer the children literacy and numeracy assistance, sports programs, guidance in right living with the ultimate aim of equipping children living on Dornier with skills for lifelong learning. Dornier ‘Donatus White’ 2011
WO Western Cape $18.95 (597278) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a bit of the ’09 left on LCBO shelves. This is a nifty white blend of 80% Chenin Blanc, 20% Semillon that’s brimming with fruit—orange peel and honeyed pear on the nose with a glorious wash of textured lemon pie filling, melon and white peach on the palate. It’s clean, crisp and refreshing with medium weight, good mouth feel and more than its fair share of charm. Lovely sipped on its own, it also versatile, pairing well with roast chicken, roast pork or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)
Dornier ‘Donatus Red’ 2009
WO Western Cape $35.95 14.5% alcohol
This is complex, balanced and still full of promise, though drinking well now. The rich, expressive nose spills over with earthiness, cedar and black currant aromas while the palate-coating flavours wash in a focused stream with cassis, kirsch liqueur and racy red cherry to the fore. It’s a structured red blend—predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon supported by bits of Malbec and Cab Franc—finishing with a dry, lengthy lip-smacking edge. (Vic Harradine)
Dornier ‘The Pirate of Cocoa Hill’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of yellow peach and gooseberry open this light-on-its-feet, rich and concentrated gem. It flows over the palate with a salad bowl of tropical fruit nicely framed by good, moderating, citrus tang. There’s a generous texture, almost creamy, from 4 to 5 months on its lees with periodic, gentle stirring. The finish is crisp and refreshing, pouring well with grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
Dornier ‘The Pirate of Cocoa Hill - Red’ 2009
WO Western Cape $14.90 14.0% alcohol
This is available at the SAQ #10679361 at $14.90. Mixed spice, espresso roast and field berry fruit on the nose, this opens up on the palate with good balance and a river of flavour—ripe mulberry, red and black currant and dark cherry interlaced with black licorice and earthy notes. It’s an interesting red blend, predominantly Shiraz, that dishes up a medium-full body with good texture and a mid-length, fruity aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Dornier Merlot 2006
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 14.0% alcohol
The lifted nose of spice, earthy tones and tar, gives way to waves of tangy, fruit-laden flavour with black plum compote and dark juicy Bing cherry interlaced with charry woodsmoke and bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid weight and fleshy with a lengthy finish adorned with good moderating acidity, a supple tannin underpinning and wisps of toast. Good to go now with grilled gourmet sausage or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Oldenburg Vineyards
When visiting Oldenburg, in the Banhoek Valley—Afrikaans for ‘scary valley’, referring the wild, dangerous animals and other perils previously lurking there—near Stellenbosch, an hour’s drive from Cape Town, their motto ‘Gem of Stellenbosch’ is quickly internalized. Vineyards sit between 300 and 450 metres and are viewed—and the view is absolutely breathtaking—from their spanking-new tasting room facility. It was designed with great care and flair by architect Simon Beerstecher with fabulous interior design by Kelly Hoppen. In a very short time they’ve concluded a massive undertaking by providing ownership of homes for all retired staff. It was common practice in South Africa for retired, full-time farm workers to be provided winery-owned living accommodations on the farm, making home ownership virtually impossible. Oldenburg has worked diligently over the past seven years providing outright home ownership to all previously employed staff in proper locations thereby providing them with a secure and tangible asset.
The original vines were ripped out and replanted in 2004 overseen by present viticulturist/winemaker Simon Thompson, after present owner Adrian Vanderspuy had taken charge of the property a year earlier. The vines are situated on Rondekop Hill (round hill) a unique piece of geography of optimum soil types and aspects producing varying micro climates and super-premium fruit. The plantings are 2/3rds red and 1/3rd white focused on Bordeaux and Rhône varietals. It’s still early days, but their wines are turning heads at competitions both nationally and internationally. When you look at the entire package, their stunning tasting room, fabulous views, unique terroir and über friendly, efficient team, you’re in danger of over-looking those excellent wines. The reviews below suggest you shouldn’t. Oldenburg Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from estate, 5-year-old vines with a14% splash of Chardonnay, this hustles from the glass with energetic aromas of orange peel, quince jelly and citrus. Slightly off-dry flavours of tropical fruit, tangy lemon zest and ripe pear provide a rich and succulent surge persisting through the lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel, full of charm and tough to spit. Only 300 cases made. (Vic Harradine)
Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 14.0% alcohol
This was 70% barrel fermented then aged 9 months in 300L French oak, 50% new. Wisps of toast, sweet vanilla and apple aromas provide segue for a wash of sweet tropical fruit, ripe pear and apple and tangy, moderating grapefruit on the palate. It’s medium bodied with generous texture and a beautifully balanced finish highlighting racy acidity married to ripe fruit and barely a hint of the perfectly integrated oak. Stylish and very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Oldenburg Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $39.95 14.5% alcohol
Hand-picked, bunch and berry sorted, this showcases the excellent potential for Cab from this unique site. Dark berry fruit, anise and graphite on the perfumed nose this is juicy, well paced and fruit-laden—what’s not to like? It’s mid-plus weight, nicely textured and brimming with balanced flavour with sour cherry, juicy black currant and mint-infused black cherry to the fore. It finishes long and fruity with nuances of cassis, savoury herb, and toast with a supple, fine-grained tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)
Oldenburg Vineyards Syrah 2009
WO Stellenbosch $39.95 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of spice and dark fruit mingle with sweet vanilla on the nose. It dishes up a mouthful of ripe, sweet fruit—mulberry and black briary berry adorned by nuances of spiced, black plum compote. Medium bodied with good mouth feel, it finishes fruit-laden and lingering with a generous layer of still-resolving tannin. Pour with grilled rack of lamb after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Oldenburg Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2009
WO Stellenbosch $39.00 14.5% alcohol
This is available in Signature stores at the SAQ #11631908 at $39.00. Following a wild yeast ferment this aged 16 months in French oak. Savoury spice, cedar and mixed field berry mingling with nuances of toast on the nose, this delivers a well-paced, well-structured and well… delectable, river of black berry, black plum and kitchen spice. It finishes long and luxurious with good balance and a refreshing, lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)
de Trafford Wines
Making our way up a long and winding, one-track, bumpy dirt road on no more than hope and a prayer—it was far off the grid of our GPS—we wondered if there really was a de Trafford winery at the end—our sketchy instructions included the cryptic phrase, when you run out of road and valley, you’ll be there. We did run out of Blaauwklip Road and scenic valley, eventually ending up between the Stellenbosch and Helderberg Mountains, and we were certainly there, met by David Trafford, owner, winemaker, viticulturist and, well… you get the picture. His wife, Rita, is an accomplished artist designing their labels and contributing her talented artwork to them. David is an architect as one quick glance at a label will highlight. 
What we weren’t prepared for was the impressive quality of the wines from this artisanal, 3500 case per annum winery. In hindsight we could have been; SAQ stores, a few kilometers from home, stock a number of them—proof a small winery with great wine gains listings all over the world. Although David began experimental vine plantings here in 1983, it wasn’t until the South Africa quota system was abolished in 1991 that work in earnest began in planting what now constitutes their estate vineyards. Between 1984 and 1991 David learned about viticulture and viniculture from local winemakers also working in Bordeaux to hone his expertise. In addition to the estate grapes, he sources fruit from the Stellenbosch Mountain and Helderberg areas. David has also partnered with others in a winery start-up project by purchasing a grain and ostrich farm in 2004 planting bush vines using out-of-the-box varietals like Trincadeira, Mourvèdre and Touriga Nacional among others. The property is where David and his family have a vacation home and is at the mouth of the Breede River between Malagas and Cape Infanta approximately 200 km east of Cape Town, near Swellendam. Attracted by the complex, stony soils, warm, dry climate and constant, cooling sea breezes, David and the wine world are excited at the prospects of what he can do with the unique red blend. The wine’s called Sijnn—rhymes with ‘sane’, not exactly what some called David when he purchased the property—with the 2008 rated far below.
de Trafford ‘Blueprint Syrah’ Syrah 2009
WO Stellenbosch $32.55 15.0% alcohol
The 2008 is available at the SAQ #10710250 at $32.55. The 2009 vintage here was exceptional—it opens with exotic spice, black plum and peppery notes on the nose. The fruit—a dash of 8% Petit Verdot—was hand-picked, wild yeast fermented and aged 22 months in seasoned French oak then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Succulent, juicy cassis, black licorice and tarry notes wash over the palate in complex, beautifully structured waves. It’s richly flavoured, mid-full weight with a silky mouth feel and good balance throughout. (Vic Harradine)
de Trafford Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $31.95 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from 3 sites of low-yielding, 25- to 40-year-old vines, aromas of honeyed peach, nutty notes and savoury nuances introduce this wild-yeast, barrel-fermented gem. It’s crisp, clean and refreshing with good acidity and a very generous mouth feel. The palate’s treated to a cornucopia of flavour including, lemon, apricot, orange peel marmalade and almond. It finishes balanced and beautiful with plenty of promise for further bottle development. Best poured 2014 to 2017, perhaps a bit longer. (Vic Harradine)
de Trafford ‘Elevation 393’ Syrah 2009
WO Stellenbosch $32.55 15.0% alcohol
The 393 refers to metres above sea level of these vines. This red blend—40% Cab Sauv, 27% Merlot, 20% Shiraz, 18% Cabernet Fanc—rips from the glass with lifted aromas of charred toast, black currant and kitchen spice. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and sports a well-balanced, rich and complex river of flavour with cassis, toasty oak and mixed field berry fruit mingling with wisps of earthiness. The finish lingers layering on a replay of berry fruit braced by good acidity underpinned by fine-grained, perceptible tannin. Good now after a two-hour aeration/decant, better 2014 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)
de Trafford Merlot 2008
WO Stellenbosch $33.95 15.0% alcohol
Spice-laden black plum, eucalyptus and cherry aromas provide segue to a racy and robust river of concentrated flavour washing over the palate with mid weight—black currant jam and ripe mulberry mingle with spice-laden sour cherry. This is fruity and easy to drink with a mellow, balanced aftertaste and more than its fair share of style, structure and charm. Lovely sipped on its own, it shines with stuffed roast chicken or roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Sijnn ‘Red’ 2008
WO Swellendam $32.25 14.0% alcohol
The 2007 is available at the SAQ #11447473 at $32.25. Four- and five-year-old bush vines set in stony soil reminiscent of the galet-strewn, Châteauneuf-du-Pape region and a blend of 40% Shiraz, 29% Mourvèdre, 22% Touriga Nacional, 9 % Trincadeira coalesce in this full-flavoured, racy, complex red. It’s medium-full bodied with plenty of mouth feel sporting a huge mouthful of dark berry fruit, tar, gamy and savoury notes plus tangy red currant. It’s approachable now—decant/aerate three hours—and should improve in bottle over the next two years. Great value and not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)
Villiera Wines
Well known in South Africa for their value-driven, ‘Down to Earth’ range, family-owned Villiera is also totally committed to the environment, their staff and to making top-quality wine through sustainable agriculture. They recently installed South Africa’s largest roof-mounted solar-panel power system supplying all their daytime requirements, other than harvest, including electricity for staff housing, offices, kitchens, processing and bottling facilities, cellars, cooling and irrigation systems in the gardens and vineyards. They provide a 220 hectare game reserve with wildly popular, daily, two-hour game drives. Their many social programs include a crèche for workers’ children and many other socially responsible initiatives gaining them deserved praise from their colleagues and the general community. Villiera is an accredited WIETA winery adhering to that strict code of ethics including fair treatment of workers and has BWI membership —Bio-diversity and Wine Initiative—a pioneering partnership between the country’s wine industry and conservation sector with a mandate to protect natural habitat and promote sustainable agriculture. 
Jeff and Simon Grier, cousins, started the winery in 1983 by first choosing to replant vines with both local and international varieties. Cathy Brewer, nee Grier, came on board later heading up sales and marketing. She also led the in-depth, winecurrent tasting, provided an extensive tour and shared her unbridled passion for winery initiatives. One-third of Villiera’s production is Methode Cap Classique—primarily from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinotage and a splash of Pinot Meunier—while the focus on white wine is with Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc while the reds are primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Jeff has won many awards for his winemaking prowess—more than once winemaker of the year—while the wines have earned top honours nationally and on the wider international stage—numerous gold medals, Platter 5 stars, Super Quaffer of the Year, and more. Villiera ‘Traditional Bush Vine’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Fashioned from low-yielding, dry-farmed, 30-year-old, untrellised bush vines, this unique, terroir-driven SB sports a piquant nose of sharp nettles, citrus and fresh snap pea. Key lime, mineral and racy white grapefruit splash over the palate in complex, tangy, crisp and refreshing waves. It’s mid-weight with very good texture and finishes clean and crisp in a mouth-watering shower. Pour on its own as an aperitif or pair with grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
Villiera ‘Traditional - Barrel Fermented’ Chenin Blanc 2009
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Off-dry and brimming with yin and yang a.k.a. the sweet and tang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine, this opens with a perfumed array of aromas including honeyed orchard fruit—peach, pear and apple—interlaced with racy citrus and spice. Honeydew melon, apricot and ripe pineapple persist over the palate and through the lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s mid weight and nicely textured looking for pad Thai or peri-peri chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Down to Earth Touriga Nacional-Shiraz 2010
WO Stellenbosch $13.95 13.5% alcohol
Mixed spice box, earthy tones and dark cherry on the nose, this spills over the palate with a drink-me-know confidence, it’s flavour-laden with mixed red and black field berry fruit and cherry cordial framed by good moderating acidity. Mid weight and textured, the finish glides by with good fruit and balance. Sip on its own or pour with pasta in tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 14.0% alcohol
A blend of Italian and Bordeaux clones make up this value-packed, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon—it’s balanced and beautiful after spending 12 months in French and American, mostly seasoned, oak barrels. Look for aromas and flavours of black currant, mint-infused red cherry and briary berry. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy balanced complex aftertaste. It’s tough to find much better at this price; it was very good. (Vic Harradine)
Villiera ‘Methode Cap Classique’ Brut Natural 2008
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 12.0% alcohol
A ‘Banc de Blanc’ style with 100% Chardonnay, the first fermentation was with wild yeast with no dosage added, leaving this racy and dry. Biscuit and baking brioche on the nose, this showers the palate with fine-bead mousse and good mouth feel carrying along crisp, clean flavours of lemon pie filling, white grapefruit and nuances of pineapple. Good balance and well paced, this delivers a boatload of value. (Vic Harradine)
Villiera ‘Methode Cap Classique’ Rosé Non-vintage
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 12.0% alcohol
A unique blend of 50% Pinotage, 30% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier produced this lively, salmon-hued bubbly. The quiet nose of red berry fruit and spice provide segue to a tangy, racy river of red currant, lemon-lime and pink grapefruit. It’s mid weight with a crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking finish. It’s a wonderful aperitif with enough oomph to be poured well with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg Estate Wines
Founded in 1692 when two friends, Cunraad Boin and Christoffel Esterhuizzen, were granted the farm, it’s been under the present ownership of the Mackenzies since 1987—managed now by the two daughters of the late Ken Mackenzie. Their focused vision remains steadfast, “To create only what wino's call "the good stuff". It’s a fabulous destination for locals and international visitors; it’s close to Cape Town, even closer to Stellenbosch, offering a wide variety of activities for a half or full day visit. There’s a tasting room, cellar tours by appointment, a unique, made-fresh-daily ‘deli platter’ lunch served with wine adjacent to the tasting room in summer or a picnic lunch to be enjoyed anywhere on the estate and a not-to-be-missed wetland trail plus monthly ‘Tapas and Jazz’ evenings in summer.
Not enough can be said regarding their social and environmental efforts. They’re members of the Bio-diversity and Wine Initiative with many projects on the farm promoting conservation and sustainable agriculture including 65 hectares of wetlands. A partnership with the ‘Pebbles Project’ began in 2008 and now includes an after-school club for children aged six to sixteen years to receive supervised homework sessions, art classes, sport activities and educational trips. Hartenberg provides them with daily transportation to and from school. The crèche facility offers an early childhood development program for children aged two to six years. The crèche and the after-school club have the additional services of a special needs teacher to support children with learning difficulties. Pebbles provides staff training as well as parent workshops on money management, alcohol abuse issues and positive parenting. There are nine different soil types on the property. Under the careful tutelage of Carl Schultz, winemaker extraordinaire, the vineyards have undergone extensive replanting in matching varieties to optimum soils and sub-soils, various climatic conditions and Carl’s two decades of daily, intensely focused experience working these undulating hills, with the latter proving invaluable. Six site-specific varietals were planted—Sauvignon Blanc, Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinotage, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vines are planted on a north/south axis allowing canopy and fruit to take advantage of the Cape's two prevailing winds. Carl has been named winemaker of the year and his wines have one won numerous Gold and Double Gold medals, Trophies, Wine of the Year, Third Best Shiraz in the World, Best Merlot in the World and accolades nationally and internationally. I learned as much in one tasting and extended, deli-platter lunch with Carl Schultz as one might in a week of wine seminars.
Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 14.5% alcohol
Spending 18 months in 50% new and 50% second-fill, French oak, 70% underwent malolactic conversion in barrel. Aromas of dark berry fruit and spice segue a balanced, extremely mellow and approachable red with oodles of ripe berry fruit—currant and raspberry—supported by black licorice and red cherry on the palate and extended aftertaste. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with good oak integration and a juicy, lip-smacking finish with each sip better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg Shiraz 2007
WO Stellenbosch $26.95 14.5% alcohol
Heavily perfumed, spiced and peppery aromas open this gloriously textured, fruit-laden beauty. Ripe, sweet mulberry, spiced plum and juicy black Bing cherry roll over the palate in soft waves. It’s medium bodied with a satin-smooth mouth feel and long aftertaste that layers on excellent, moderating, juicy acidity—red currant and sour cherry—providing a wonderful, balanced tasting experience; dare I say, yummy? (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg Chardonnay 2009
WO Stellenbosch $13.95 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of toast, kitchen spice and nutty nuances dance off this mid-weight, balanced beauty. Ripe pear and succulent nectarine interlace with crisp, refreshing lemon-lime cordial on the ultra-creamy-smooth palate. It’s medium-bodied with deftly integrated oak and a lingering, well-balanced fruit-laden finish. This was barrel fermented with no malolactic conversion then aged eleven months in 50% new French oak with the balance is seasoned barrels. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg ‘The Eleanor’ Chardonnay 2008
WO Stellenbosch $37.95 13.5% alcohol
This honours the matriarch of the Finlayson family former owners of Hartenberg Estate. Sweet vanilla, toast and hazelnut mingling with pit fruit on the nose, this coats the palate with complex, elegant, flavours of crisp green apple, lemon pie filling and wisps of mineral, slate and caramel. It’s expressive and rich with good structure, plenty of nerve and verve and a lengthy, tangy finish. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg Riesling 2010
WO Stellenbosch $13.95 13.5% alcohol
Just slightly off-dry, look for lifted aromas of lanolin, perfumed floral notes and honeyed orchard fruit. A huge mouthful of rich, delectable honeyed fruit spills over the palate and through the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste—pineapple, ruby red grapefruit and zesty lemon galore. This is from a warm, dry vintage and picked with 20% of fruit being botrytis affected. Poured and paired perfectly with spicy Asian dishes like green curry chicken. Pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2010
WO Stellenbosch $13.95 13.0% alcohol
Herbaceous and savoury on the nose—green pea and gooseberry—it washes over the palate with a full array of flavour treats—succulent white peach, ripe pineapple and racy lemon zest. It’s mid weight with generous texture—six months on the lees with gentle, weekly stirring—and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish. Perfect as an aperitif or paired with pan-seared fish or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg ‘gravel hill’ 2006
WO Stellenbosch $129.95 14.5% alcohol
South Africa’s first single-vineyard Shiraz—so named for the iron-rich, gravelly ‘koffieklip’ soil—previously sold only at auction, released publicly for the first time with the 2005 vintage. A perfumed bouquet of exotic spice, alluring violet and pepper-laced dark berry fruit is precursor to a dry, nicely structured wash of cassis and dark, tangy cherry mingling with wood smoke and wisps of spice. This is rich, robust and succulent adorned with a supple, fine-grained tannin underpinning and a dry, balanced finish. It spent 26 months in 100% French oak and could easily spend another five years in bottle before popping the cork. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg ‘The Mackenzie’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $59.95 13.5% alcohol
Their stylish, flagship red blend, this was meticulously vinified from 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 7% Malbec spending 22 months in all-new French oak barrels—it’s rich, layered and complex. Aromas of cedar, vanilla, and dark berry/cherry introduce a dazzling expression of balanced, elegant fruit with juicy black currant and succulent briary berry to the fore mingling with bittersweet chocolate, toasty char and still-resolving, fine-grained tannin. Tuck away for optimum drinking 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Hartenberg ‘The Stork’ 2007
WO Stellenbosch $74.25 15.0% alcohol
The 2005 is available at the SAQ #11056966 at $74.25. Former owner, Ken Mackenzie, was a long-legged, RAF, WW2 fighter pilot nicknamed ‘Stork’ by his buddies. Heavily perfumed aromas of spice box, black pepper and mixed field berry waft from this full-bodied, richly textured gem—it was hand-picked and individual-bunch-selected from late-ripening vines with roots deep in Terra Rossa soil. This is full-bodied and fully textured with a smooth and mellow fruit-laden approach—black briary berry and mocha-infused cherry—and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste. It spent 26 months in 100% new French oak. It’s a tour de force in winemaking emblazoned with Rick Schultz’s stamp of perfection. (Vic Harradine)