Swartland is by no means a new, a newer, or even new-ish wine region. For many decades much of its fruit has been finding its way into commercial wine drunk and sold locally and internationally. If you’re even a casual wine drinker who tries something new once in a while, I’m certain you’ve drunk some. So what’s the excitement? What’s exciting is how the fruit is now grown and how it’s handled, or more to the point, not handled, in the winery. And, that you can now more easily purchase wine that’s bottled and labeled Swartland from only Swartland fruit, not, as before, blended in with other appellations and under their Wine of Origin. The Swartland Independent is both a manifesto and a curious icon found on the top of the seal on bottles produced by a small group of winemakers who take their wines and winemaking practices very seriously. If they had written their manifesto on stone tablets it may have taken shape like the following;
Thou shalt strive to farm sustainably, organically and bio-dynamically with fruit sourced from low-yielding, old, dry-land-farmed, mainly bush, terroir-matched vines.
Thou shalt apply minimalist winemaking techniques striving to allow indigenous yeast fermentation, foot-stomping, natural malolactic conversion, avoiding filtering and fining.
Thou shalt not acidify, de-acidify, de-alc, add tannin, concentrate must or use oak as flavourant.
As you can see their goals are mighty and a huge work in progress. However, what’s certain is winemakers and their wines are gaining traction locally and internationally with accolades, medals and trophies piling up. Two of the four wineries reviewed below have signed on as founding members—Mullineux and Badenhorst— along with Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof and Chairman Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines, easily the group’s most prominent member and poster boy for the Swartland Revolution. Lammershoek is now an associate member. Swartland wines are becoming more easily accessible in Canada; don’t miss any opportunity to try from wineries reviewed below.
Mullineux Family Estates
Chris and Andrea Mullineux have embraced and enhanced the ‘Swartland Revolution’ by careful vineyard site selection, managing vines through sustainable agriculture and traditional, minimalist winemaking techniques. They’ve seduced the local and international wine world producing wine that Platter—5 stars, and Parker—+90 points, gush over, sending wine-lovers scrambling to find a few precious bottles. Managing vines and vineyards, rather than owning, they work intimately with each individual block collaborating with each land owner to accomplish their goals. Much of the fruit is sourced from +30-year-old, dry-farmed bush vines. 
They focus on a single, red varietal, Syrah, and four white varietals—Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche and Viognier. With some of the oldest viticultural soils on earth from which to choose, vineyards are selected by their compatibility with the three main soil types found here as well as aspect, drainage and vine health. Fruit is hand-picked in small lugs then whisked to their Riebeeck Casteel tasting room and winery. Riebeeck Casteel is a charming village in the heart of the rugged, strangely enchanting Swartland wine region, a scant hour’s drive from Cape Town. Because of Mullineux’s success, they have agents in most countries including Canada—Ontario, Alberta, Manitoba. If you see the name Mullineux on a bottle of wine, buy it on faith. 
Mullineux Family Estates Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Swartland $32.95 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and orange segue a complex, structured river of tropical fruit, succulent white peach and quince jelly. Sourced from 30 to 70-year-old, small-berry vines—with a splash of Viognier and Clairette Blanche—it spent 12 months on its lees before being wisely sealed under screw cap. Sustainable agriculture, indigenous yeast fermentation, spontaneous malolactic conversion, not filtered or fined—it earned an Integrity and Sustainability seal. It’s well balanced, mid weight with silky-smooth mouth feel and a memorable, tangy, lip-smacking finish—absolutely divine. (Vic Harradine)
Mullineux Family Estates Syrah 2009
WO Swartland $36.95 14.0% alcohol
Ripe berry fruit with hints of licorice and tar open this medium-plus, savoury-laden beauty. Rich, complex, racy red currant and sweet black currant wash over the palate adorned with spice, generous acidity and supple, fine-grained tannin. The aftertaste replays savoury herbs and spice, plus black plum compote and a juicy, tangy, mouth-watering aftertaste. Minimalist winemaking with grapes sourced from six premium blocks using indigenous yeast ferments, no acidification or added sugar, tannins or enzymes, not fined or filtered. There’s good structure, well-integrated oak and the promise of more when carefully cellared and drunk 2014 - 2019. (Vic Harradine)
Mullineux ‘Kloof Street’ Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Swartland $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Honeyed pear and apple mingle with ripe apricot and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate’s treated to a boatload of flavour—honeyed peach and tropical fruit. There’s good body and very generous mouth feel, deftly integrated oak with a balanced, lengthy aftertaste and wisely sealed under screw cap. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. What’s not to like? – pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Mullineux ‘Kloof Street’ Syrah 2009
WO Swartland $17.95 13.5% alcohol
Primarily Syrah with a blend of other Rhône varieties, it bursts from the glass with a perfumed nose of dark berry fruit, black licorice and espresso roast. Flavours of racy red currant, sour cherry and mixed field berry persist throughout. It finishes juicy, tangy and lip-smacking good. Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Mullineux Family Estates ‘Straw Wine’ Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Swartland $37.95 10.0% alcohol 375 mL
Definitely a ‘wine-to-try-before-you-die’—it fills the room with perfumed aromas of peel marmalade, apricot and honey-drizzled tropical fruit. Dried on straw mats, grapes grudgingly give up 10-15% of original liquid after 48 hours of gentle pressing —now concentrated, honeyed nectar of the Gods. Viscous waves coat the palate infusing the monumental aftertaste—blood orange, marzipan, apricot flan and enough acidity to make it a pleasurable, memorable experience. (Vic Harradine)
A. A. Badenhorst Family Wines
Owner/cousins Hein and Adi Badenhorst‘s winery is in the Swartland wine region of the Western Cape with 28 ha of bush vines. Viticulture and winemaking’s carried out in the spirit of the ‘Swartland Revolution’– hands-on, biological, natural, sustainable viticulture and hands off, traditional wine making. Adi’s definitely a front-of-the-house guy, personable, quick witted and seemingly laid back, but he’s on a serious mission when it comes to wine. He and Hein purchased the Kalmoesfontein farm—neglected since the dirty 30’s. They transformed it into a working winery plus a renovated residence for winemaker Adi and his family. The two cousins are not rock stars with bundles of loose Rand in their jeans, although Adi might not be adverse to be known as one, especially given the amount of granite in the region—the farm was restored using sweat and toil, their own sweat and toil. In Adi’s words “we have restored a neglected cellar on the farm that was last used in the 1930′s to make natural wines in the traditional manner.” Don’t expect shiny rows of stainless steel tanks or an equally shiny bladder press, “We make wines with immense character. We’re using what we can afford. We are making the best wines we can.” There’s little in Adi’s background that suggests he’d give up a tried and true path to a comfortable retirement. However, the wine world’s a better place for it. He attended Elsenburg, a learning institution under the auspices of The Western Cape Department of Agriculture. Then he went abroad, spending time at Chateau Angelus in Bordeaux, Alain Graillot in the northern Rhône Valley and at Wither Hills in New Zealand before returning to South Africa with brief stops at Simonsig, Steenberg, Groote Post and nine years as winemaker at Rustenberg, a well-known, respected Stellenbosch winery.
Winecurrent tasted with Adi’s ebullient, assistant winemaker, Jasper Wickens, who’s been on deck since 2008 and equally committed to the ‘Swartland Revolution’ and its manifesto. Although only four wines with reviews appear below—most of the finished wines were, not surprisingly, ‘sold out’—there must have been more than a score of barrel-samples—in varying stages of development—that were swirled, sipped and spat. It was an engaging, educational and memorable afternoon. If you get a chance to visit, don’t pass it up, you won’t forget the experience. If you get a chance to purchase one of their wines, don’t pass that up, either.
A.A. Badenhorst ‘Secateurs’ Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Swartland $14.95 14.0% alcohol
This is 100% Chenin Blanc with 40% wild-yeast fermented in seasoned oak casks and 60% wild-yeast fermented in concrete vat. Fruit was hand picked from approx. 50-year-old, dry-farmed, low-yielding, bush vines, mostly estate with one small parcel from a neighbouring farm just outside the Swartland appellation. It dishes up a persistently fruit-filled wash of crisp green apple, ripe pear and nuances of tropical fruit. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel—7 months on gross lees—and a clean, refreshing, citrus-laden finish. (Vic Harradine)
A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines ‘White Blend’ 2009
WO Coastal Region $38.95 14.5% alcohol
Showcasing a rich and complex personality, it rips from the glass with perfumed aromas of peel marmalade, apricot and slate. It delivers a persistent core of flavour on the palate and through the balanced aftertaste with exotic spice, tangy lemon pie filling, succulent white peach and a generous dollop of racy key lime to the fore. The whole-bunch press adds wisps of tannin allowing a solid underpinning for this mouth-watering, brawny blend—half from Chenin Blanc and Roussanne. The finish layers on minerality and spice. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
A.A. Badenhorst ‘Secateurs Red’ 2010
WO Coastal Region $17.95 14.0% alcohol
This racy, savoury red blend was left on its gross lees for 14 months in seasoned, oak casks and concrete before bottling. Spice, espresso roast and charred toast on the nose, it flows across the palate with a focused stream of tangy red currant, savoury-infused red-berry fruit and red cherry. It’s nicely balanced with good mouth feel and a crisp, dry finish. Pour with grilled back ribs brushed with spicy sauce, meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines ‘Red Blend’ 2008
WO Coastal Region $38.95 14.5% alcohol
Fruit is hand picked, hand sorted, chilled overnight, whole-bunch, foot stomped, then pigeaged twice daily, a.k.a. more foot stomping during fermentation. A red blend—80% Shiraz, 10% Cinsault and 10% Grenache—it’s heavily perfumed with aromas of rose petal, savoury spice and dark, ripe fruit. A savoury stream of flavours washes in waves—dark cherry, succulent and ripe black currant with wisps of char and black licorice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a savoury, tangy aftertaste. Good on its own or with food, try smoked, grilled beef with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Lammershoek
The first vineyards were planted on this farm in 1750, one of the first in the Aprilskloof Valley of the Paardeberg. Lammershoek translates from Cape Dutch to ‘lamb’s corner’ as urban legend has it ewes sheltered lambs from the predator Black Eagle in the forests surrounding the original farm. It’s a family-owned and run vineyard/winery—Paul and Anna Kretzel—in the Paardeberg sub-region of Swartland. There’s just shy of 100 ha under vine—all sustainably farmed and, since 2010, all organic—including Rhône varieties, +50-year-old, bush-vine, dry-framed Chenin Blanc and the less common Harslévelü from Hungary and Tinta Barocca, a Port grape from Portugal. Their terroir is primarily mineral-rich, decomposed granite and sandy soils gasping for moisture, baked by an unrelentingly, searing-hot sun. They’re open for tastings by appointment only, using information via their website. 
Talented, adventuresome, winemaker, Craig Hawkins—a bright, young guy turning heads with his wine, led us through a spirited and dazzling array of barrel samples and recently bottled wine—there’s a parcel of winners in the pipeline. He’s a dedicated terroir-ist and he walks the talk of the ‘Swartland Revolution’ - His more adventuresome efforts are labeled under the ‘CellarFoot’ banner including a Syrah aged in oak barrels submerged 12 months underwater. He also makes wine under his own banner, Testalonga. He’s an amazingly talented viticulturist/winemaker; you’ll be hearing much more about Craig. Unassuming, but quietly confident, he’s assembled a line-up of balanced, value-laden, great-tasting wine at every price point. The Lammershoek label has gained good recognition and a solid following of avid wine lovers. It’s not too late to join in. Given the opportunity, pick up a bottle or two. Lammershoek Syrah 2008
WO Swartland $25.95 14.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of floral notes, black pepper and spice roll from this medium-bodied, nicely textured red. Tangy, juicy waves of red currant, sour cherry and juicy black plum run throughout. The aftertaste is well balanced and fruity layering on wisps of kitchen spice and hints of briary berry. Great on its own, terrific with gourmet burgers, meat-laden pizza or grilled back ribs slathered with spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)
[4.0 stars]
Lammershoek ‘Lam’ Syrah 2010
WO Swartland $13.95 13.5% alcohol
A lovely red with a price-quality ratio well in your favour, the splash of 8% Carignan adds structure and a lift to the flavours. Dark fruit, kitchen spice and black licorice on the nose, it sports mid-weight, nicely textured flavours on the palate with tangy, red berry fruit and black Bing cherry to the fore. Finishing balanced, dry and tangy, there are wisps of tar and espresso roast on the aftertaste. The ‘Lam’ wines are from younger vines with less, or less time, in oak barrels than the Lammershoek banner. (Vic Harradine)
Lammershoek Chenin Blanc 2010
WO Swartland $17.95 13.5% alcohol
This is a complex and fruit-laden gem opening with lifted aromas of pit fruit, mineral and nutty nuances. It’s medium-full bodied with a silky mouth feel and a glorious wash of honeyed apricot, racy lemon acidity and spice. The lingering finish is tangy, racy and lip-smacking good. Divine sipped on its own and equally as good with grilled calamari rings or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)
Lammershoek ‘Roulette Blanc’ 2010
WO Swartland $17.95 13.0% alcohol
A delightful blend—50% Chenin Blanc, 30% Chardonnay, 18% Viognier, 2% Clairette—that sports balanced, complex and well-structured flavours coating the palate and persisting through the lengthy finish. Look for honeycomb, green apple and ripe pear to be predominant finishing in a blaze of mouth-watering acidity. Winemaker Craig Hawkins proves himself a wizard with single varietal bottlings or blends.
Lammershoek ‘Roulette Red’ 2008
WO Swartland $23.95 (58164) 14.5% alcohol
The 2007 is available in select LCBO stores. Lifted and perfumed aromas bolt from the glass—mixed spice, rich, ripe red fruit mingling with savoury herbs. Rich and robust on the palate, there’s a generous wash of balanced, complex flavours throughout with black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry to the fore. A nicely structured blend—50% Syrah, 22% Carignan, 23% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre—it dishes up a long, juicy, finish with each sip bettering the last. (Vic Harradine)
Allesverloren Estate
And now for something completely different, including the name. From their website –“The history of our Swartland winery dates back to somewhere between 1696 and 1704, when the governor of the Cape left it to a widow named Cloete. This courageous woman was one of the first settlers who ventured into the inhospitable Swartland region. The early settlers were simple people, with only the most limited agricultural equipment and basic necessities to support themselves. Considering its name, it is ironic that this gem of the Swartland wine region has had such a happy fate. By 1806, Allesverloren's owners had already harvested the estate's first wine grapes and since the estate passed into the hands of the Malan family 140 years ago, Allesverloren has gone from strength to strength. Our estate has increased to 227 hectares and our wines continue to earn international acclaim.” 
Allesverloren is situated on the south-eastern slopes of the Kasteelberg near Riebeek West. It’s the oldest farm in Swartland and has been connected with the Malan family since the late 1800’s with present winemaker, Danie, 6th generation. They’re known for their Port and value-packed reds—Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and a lovely array of Port varieties. It’s exciting and natural to get caught up with newer wineries sporting the ‘Swartland Revolution’ posters—and well you should—but you pass by Allesverloren to your detriment. Stylistically poles apart, there’s room for both in your glass and your cellar with each having much to offer. He stays close to the basics and is very down to earth. Danie’s motto is that he’s a farmer who makes wine, not a winemaker who farms. Allesverloren Shiraz 2010
WO Swartland $18.95 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from +40-year-old, estate, low-yielding vines, this balanced and beautiful red offers up perfumed aromas of lilac, mixed spice and dark berry fruit. Medium bodied with good mouth feel and rich, complex flavours—red and black cherry and sweet ripe mulberry—it finishes in a dry, lip-smacking blaze of sour cherry interlaced with black plum compote. The mostly seasoned oak has been deftly integrated. (Vic Harradine)
Allesverloren Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Swartland $18.95 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of black cherry, cedar and briary berry segue palate-bathing flavours of black currant, bittersweet chocolate and a moderating splash of red currant. It’s mid-full weight with a smooth and mellow texture underpinned by a solid, supple tannin underpinning—18 months in new and seasoned oak. Well paced, well made and well… delicious. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
Allesverloren Tinta Barocca 2009
WO Swartland $14.95 14.5% alcohol
Crushed, dried berry fruit, espresso roast and toasty note aromas on the nose, this dishes up a persistent stream of rich, complex flavours from estate, dry-farmed vines—some over-fifty-years old. Tangy and juicy throughout, look for sour cherry, briary berry and oodles of moderating acidity on the palate and lingering, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside what you pull off your Weber—grilled ribs, steak or burgers. (Vic Harradine)
Allesverloren ‘Fine Old Vintage’ 2008
WO Swartland $19.95 21.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, warm raisin pie and dark plum aromas waft from this wonderfully crafted Port-styled gem. Smooth, mellow and bursting with sweet flavour—Christmas cake spice, raisin tart and creamy bread pudding—it over-delivers on the palate and through the monumental, memorable aftertaste. Winemaker Danie Malan’s convinced the particular brandy he uses during fortification gives him a leg up on other producers. Sip on its own or pair with aged, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)