Image
ImageRod and Vic will be selling and signing their book, The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO, at the following locations:

Ottawa: LCBO, Rideau and King Edward, on Saturday, December 1, from 1 to 5pm.

Toronto: A wine-tasting at the Duke of Westminster pub, First Canadian Place, 77 Adelaide Street West, on Wednesday, December 5, 12:15 to 1:15 and 1:15 to 2:15. For tickets, visit www.fcpevents.com.

This release starts with a feature on 'Simply Reds' and then carries on with the usual country and region listings. Rod couldn't attend this tasting, so Vic had all the fun, but Rod contributes reviews to the other sections of this newsletter.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

'Simply Reds' Feature

California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Raymond Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $31.95 (715979)
There are layered and lovely aromas and flavours in this gorgeously-textured red. Aromas of berry, spice and mocha meld perfectly into the juicy rich flavours of kirsch liqueur, minty chocolate and bramble berry. It's medium bodied, deftly balanced and displays well integrated oak treatment. The finish is quite lengthy and structured, sporting ripe tannins and a moderating tanginess. Drinking now to 2014. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley $55.95 (996405)
This winery bested 'First Growth' Bordeaux red wines in the famous 1976 Paris blind tasting, vaulting California wine to world-wide prominence. The aromas of dark berry and spice box segue delicious flavours of cassis, coffee and licorice in this medium- to full-bodied Napa Cab. You'll revel in the long, warm, fruity finish. Pair with a T-bone, grilled rare to medium-rare. (VH)

Australia

***** two glasses drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate 'Ebenezer' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (039537)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is the real deal from the folks that bring you E & E Black Pepper Shiraz at triple this price. Aromatics of chocolate, tobacco and licorice plus full bore fruit (Bing cherries, black currants) mark this bruiser as one for novices and serious collectors alike. This has huge weight and texture with supple tannins and extremely well handled oak treatment. The lengthy fruit-driven finish is awesome. Match to grilled rare strip loin from now until 2012. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
D'Arenberg 'The Ironstone Pressings" Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $49.95 (974816)
You'll experience a well-priced, rich and racy lip-smacking blend from a fabulous wine maker. Expect aromas of truffles, mulberry and sweet floral notes. Piquant plum and cassis flavours to the fore, you'll also find hints of currant in this warm (15% alcohol) full-bodied gem. The racy finish delivers Montmorency cherry, sweet bramble berry and spice box. Drinking beautifully now after a 2 hour decant/aeration—to soften the ripe, but perceptible tannins—it will continue to do so until at least 2020. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
The Colonial Estate 'Envoy' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $31.95 (047563)
Toast and mixed field berry on the nose, this densely rich, round and ready red offers sweet black plum compote and sweet kirsch liqueur flavours that are supported by ripe supple tannins and the barest hint of moderating acidity—a new world crowd-pleaser, to be sure. It finishes the way it begins with a blast of sweet black, ripe and juicy berry fruit. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass 'Black Label' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2002
South Australia $89.95 (960468)
Big dollars, but an even bigger wine so it's worth every penny. The lifted nose delivers a painter's palette of alluring aromas—dark berry, toast, leather and vanilla. The palate is treated to a creamy texture and a mélange of rich and concentrated flavours—spiced black cherry, black plum and bramble berry. There's spice and chocolate, as well, and the finish replays all these with gusto. Drink now to 2015 after a 2 hour decant/aeration and serve with something hearty like a lamb daube or seared bison, elk or venison. (VH)

South America

**** cellar
Errazuriz 'Don Maximiano Founder's Reserva' 2004
Aconcagua Valley, Chile $79.95 (501247)
A bruiser of a wine, expect to encounter a full-bodied quite tannic blend. Cedar and toast on the nose, from the lashings of oak, expect full bore flavours of sweet black and juicy cherry. Still in the firm grip of a solid tannic structure, this will offer optimum drinking until 2018 after 3 year's rest in the cellar. The finish is sweet and warm (14.5% alcohol) with a lovely replay of the flavours mentioned above. (VH)

Italy

****1/2 cellar
Argiano Solengo 2004
IGT Toscana $85.95 (043398)
A fabulous dry red blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 25% Syrah—that opens with a fragrant nose of lilac, chocolate and earthy notes. It then bursts on the palate with robust flavours of rich black currant and spiced plum. The overall effect is one of an elegant wine with a firm structure (from supple tannins) and great ageing potential. The lengthy finish loads on a sweet dollop of cassis. Hide this in your cellar 'til 2010 then drink it over the next ten years. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Rocca Delle Macìe Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (930966)
This managed to stay well balanced, nicely structured and far from jammy in spite of the searing hot '03 vintage. Toast and smoky oak aromas lift off the glass and provide a lovely entry to the cornucopia of flavours ranging from herbaceous and racy to ripe berry fruit. It's medium-bodied and still a tad tannic with a rich finish providing just the right profile to pair with veal Parmigiano. (VH)

The Main Release

Sherry

***** drink or cellar
Gonzalez Byass 'Noe' Muy Viejo Pedro Ximénez
DOC Jerez $25.95 375 mL (721159)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) How do you describe PX—that black, viscous, unctuous, sweet wine that coats your mouth with seemingly indelible flavours of raisins, stewed prunes and melted chocolate? Well, that just about does it. PX is how you spell "hedonistic" in wine-language. You have to experience it, but don't bother pairing it with anything but your palate. (RP)

Australia: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
D'Arenberg 'The Money Spider' Roussanne 2006
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills South Australia $19.95 (656710)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Citrus and stone fruit aromas drift from the glass of this medium-bodied gem. Green tea, herbs and white peach flavours coat the palate while the moderating zest provides depth and balance. All lovers of wine need to experience this as it is definitely not run-of-the-mill. The round and warm finish layers on honey and melon. Stunning on its own or paired with salt and pepper calamari, now to 2012. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink now
D'Arenberg 'The Galvo Garage' 2003
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $26.95 (907584)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A Cabernet Sauvignon-predominant Bordeaux blend of mammoth proportions that begins with a perfumed nose of minty and spiced black plum aromas. Vanilla, toasty notes and black, juicy, ripe berry fruit characteristics wash over the palate in delectable waves before you realize the oak has been perfectly integrated; the tang in perfect balance and the lengthy fruit-forward finish is a seamless replay of all the previous flavours. Ripe, rich and rewarding. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz/Grenache 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $25.95 (047605)
Iconic father and son wine makers, Colin and Ben Glaetzer, are responsible for many outstanding Barossa wines, this 70% Shiraz 30% Grenache blend included. Full-bore black currant, cherry and chocolate flavours abound on the nicely structured (ripe tannins) and full-bodied frame. The warm sweet (14.5% alcohol) flavours turn quite racy on the finish keeping your interest and you coming back for more. Pair with a spicy dish like Rognons de Veau Dijonnaise. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Grant Burge 'Miamba' Shiraz 2005
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (725127)
Alluring aromatics of oak, spice and chocolate form the lifted nose of this medium- to full-bodied red. It's very well paced with enough acidity for balance and a ripe tannin underpinning for structure. The flavours are in the red currant and red cherry zones while the finish is warm (14.5% alcohol) and lengthy. This offers good value and good drinking now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Hope Estate 'The Ripper!' Shiraz 2005
Geographe, Western Australia $19.95 (686865)
Opaque and inky in the glass, this is a perennial favourite. In short, it's a crowd-pleasing ripper! Look for teeth-staining, palate-drenching flavours of black currant, black raspberry and mulberry. There's plenty of moderating acidity and supple ripe tannins to keep it in balance while the finish is quite lengthy. Pick up an armful (it's drinking now to 2012) as the quality-price ratio is in your favour. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds 'Bin 128' Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (509919)
This is one of the few Penfolds wines that comes from a single region, the Coonawarra, providing an opportunity to sample terroir. The aromas are alluring and exotic—look for aromatic bitters, herbaceous and spicy notes and black pepper. The flavours are still tightly wound around firm tannins, though a 2 hour decant/aeration opened them up. Look for red cherry and red currant, and a generous dollop of racy acidity. The finish is medium in length. This pairs well with stuffed and baked green bell peppers. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke 'Shotfire' Shiraz 2005
Barossa, South Australia $24.95 (018796)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a gargantuan Shiraz providing a huge mouthful of concentrated (from low yields of only 1 ½ - 2 tons per acre) and rich flavours. Look for sweet and expressive aromas and flavours of bramble berry, Bing Cherry, black licorice, dark chocolate and mint. There's also perceptible ripe and friendly tannins and lashings of oak (American and French - 40% new). Good to go now with lamb or beef grilled rare to medium rare. It could also be cellared until 2010 and enjoyed until 2015. (VH)

South Africa: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2003
WO Western Cape $16.95 (561142)
Muted aromas of smoke and oak set the stage for a medium-bodied flavourful red. Sweet black fruit—raspberry, cherry, currant—abound while the moderating acidity and ripe tannins provide interest, structure and balance. The finish is quite lengthy, layering on gobs of rich flavours with cassis and spiced black cherry to the fore. Lovely on its own, it also pairs well with grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
W. Gisselbrecht Gewürztraminer Réserve Spéciale 2005
AOC Alsace $15.95 (678003)
Gorgeous aromas of rosewater, spice and hints of floral open up this medium-bodied gem. The sweet and fleshy fruit flavours include yellow peach, melon and apple pie spices. The finish is fruit forward with a refreshing and clean citrussy bite at the end. It delivers that delightful sweet and sour, yin and yang experience that pairs perfectly to spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Monbazillac 2001
AOC Monbazillac $23.95 500 mL (031617)
Not as famous as the Sauternes or Barsac sweet wine regions in Bordeaux, Monbazillac nevertheless produces some stunning sweet wines. Alluring aromas of tangerine, mushrooms and sweet rose petals drift off the glass of this viscous beauty. Involved flavours of candied orange rind, desiccated coconut and lemon drops coat the palate while the glorious spine of acidity keeps it in balance. Serve well chilled with seared foie gras. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas 2004
AOC Gigondas $33.95 (011601)
This iconic producer has almost single handedly put, and kept, Gigondas on the world wine map. Grenache predominant, you can expect to find sweet and warm (15% alcohol) black berry and black raspberry fruit flavours that are supported by a firm tannic structure. It's well balanced, medium bodied and finishes dry and medium in length. This will benefit from another 2 years in the cellar. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 cellar
Manzone Barolo le Gramolere 1999
DOCG Piedmont $49.95 (050773)
Char and oaky aromas blow off the glass of this massive wine. Look for a full-bore attack of flavours with sour cherry, dried crushed berries and spiced black plum to the fore and an equally expressive dollop of drying tannins. The finish is lengthy and warm and the moderating acidity provides good balance. This will drink beautifully 2012 to 2020, with or without osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Marchese di Villamarina Alghero 2000
DOC Sardinia $48.95 (954081)
This assertive Cabernet Sauvignon is medium to full bodied with a full life ahead of it. Herbaceous and toasty on the nose, it opens up into a ripe, rich and racy red. You'll enjoy the flavours of dark cherry and tar as they meld nicely with the firm tannic structure and moderating zestiness. The lengthy and warm finish adds a hint of mocha and cassis. Drink this 2010 to 2018 with a hearty stew. (VH)

**** cellar
Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2004
IGT Toscana $29.95 (727636)
Earthy and spicy aromas form the segue to this predominantly Sangiovese (90%) / Merlot blend. Inky black in the glass, you can expect rich and concentrated dark berry flavours, as well. The finish is redolent of crushed dried cranberries with hints of spice. The grainy tannins will need time to soften. I suggest drinking 2012 to 2018. It's certainly well-priced. (VH)

Spain: red

**** drink now
Viña Herminia Excelsus 2004
DOC Rioja $22.95 (050567)
This is round and ready for delicious consumption. Aromas and flavours of spice box, cherry, raspberry and cassis flow the entire length of this medium-bodied Tempranillo / Garnacha blend. There's just enough zing for balance and the finish adds warmth (14.5% alcohol) and sweet berry fruit. This is a perfect partner to pizza or pasta in a meat and tomato-based sauce. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 8, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
California $24.95 (25080)
Aromas of mint, currant and chocolate form a delightful window to this medium-bodied and nicely-balanced red. It's a classy wine that explodes on the palate with a robust burst of dark fruit flavours; there's ripe and juicy black cherry and black currant to the fore. The finish replays all those aromas and flavours making for quite a memorable experience. It's exquisite on its own and perfectly-paired with beef daube. (VH)

*** drink now
Rutherford Hill Merlot 2003
Napa Valley, California $31.45 (959338)
You'll discover aromas of black plum and savoury on the nose of this light- to medium-bodied red. Racy and well-defined, the flavours are all in the red currant and cranberry zones with a dollop of tanginess and ripe, but perceptible tannins. The finish is warm (14.4% alcohol) and well balanced. This wine will show particularly well when paired with grilled spicy back ribs or Asian meat dishes with a bit of curry or spice. (VH)

Vintages Release: January 19, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perez Cruz Reserva 'Limited Edition' Syrah 2005
Maipo Valley $24.95 (589812)
This is a beautiful Syrah with a texture that's plush and velvety. The concentrated flavours are mainly black cherry and berries, with attractive notes of spice, herbs and mint. Medium bodied and dry, it has a balancing seam of acidity that makes it ideal for food. It's a natural for well-seasoned, grilled red meats—you know, the sort of thing they'd eat with it, where it comes from. (RP)

Vintages Release: March 2008

**** drink now
Creekside Estate Winery 'Laura's Blend White' 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95
This is an attractive blend of many varieties, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Viognier, Muscat and Riesling. What they add up to is a flavour-filling mouthful of tropical fruit, lime, spice, and white grapefruit, with a whiff of honey. It's smooth and mouth-filling with a nice seam of crisp acidity, and it finishes with a clean line of grapefruit. Drink it with sautéed, lightly spiced seafood, like garlic ginger shrimp. (RP)

Vintages Release: March 1, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tatachilla 'Foundation' Shiraz 2001
McLaren Vale, Australia $39.95 (914481)
This is Tatachilla's top drop; expect a highly-perfumed nose of toasty oak, espresso roast and spiced berry. The palate is drenched with a huge explosion of ripe and juicy bramble berry and black currant flavours that are ably supported by ripe, but perceptible tannins and moderating acidity. It's full-bodied, but not overdone or jammy, and provides a warm, lengthy and fruit forward finish. Excellent now, after two hours aeration, and drinking well into 2014. (VH)

Vintages Release: April 26, 2008

****1/2 cellar
Parker Coonawarra Estate 'Terra Rossa' Merlot 2004
Coonawarra, South Australia $36.95 (678581)
No wimpy wine this; expect a gusher of teeth-staining fruit and still grippy tannins. Robust and revved-up flavours—cassis, minty chocolate, spicy mulberry—are underpinned by dollops of moderating tanginess and a fully-textured mouth feel. There's a long finish that layers on oak and additional dark fruit flavours. Open this in 2010 then drink it over 5 or more years with grilled beef or a rich stew. (VH)

Vintages Release: June 21, 2008

****1/2 drink now
Tatachilla 'Keystone' Shiraz/Viognier 2004
McLaren Vale, Australia $18.95 (673889)
The Shiraz and Viognier (7%) were vinified and aged separately by Tatachilla's young talented French wine maker, Fanchon Ferrandi. She's crafted a concentrated and complex wine with a sophisticated touch. It opens with a lifted nose of spice, toast and dark berry fruit then provides dense and ripe flavours of mulberry and black cherry on a full-bodied frame. The finish is monumental. The only thing out of balance is the quality to price ratio and it's tipped heavily in your favour—stock up. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Chardonnay 2005
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (256552) Vintages Essential
Low yields from older vines (25+ years) and the magic of wine maker Angelo Pavan coalesce to produce this compact and racy gem. The aromas and flavours are a mélange of melon, citrus and peach. Malolactic fermentation was suppressed, instead 10 months on the lees provide a lovely texture without being flabby. With good mouth feel and moderating verve, the finish develops into a mouth watering experience of citrussy tanginess. Pair it with seared scallops or a grilled fresh water fish, like trout. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.15 (286377) Vintages Essential
The 20 year old vines that produced this fruity off dry gem also provide a bracing spine of acidity to deftly balance it. A nose of citrussy mineral aromas segue to a luscious mouthful of flavours—honeycomb, white grapefruit and a hint of anise. The racy finish is laser-like and extremely refreshing. A perfect aperitif wine, it's also perfectly paired with a piquant Thai dish like spicy fish cakes. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Indian Summer' Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 375 mL (415901) Vintages Essential
After a one year hiatus, this stunning dessert wine is back on the shelves. The partially frozen grapes were hand picked over 6 weeks at an average of 30.4 Brix (the sugar level of the unfermented grape), which is just below that of ice wine. Look for a huge mouthful of honeyed mango, candied orange, lemon peel, and spiced apple pie that's balanced with good acidity that keeps it far from cloying. Good to go now with a fruit compote dessert, you can also safely cellar this for 7 or 8 years. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Santa Digna Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Central Valley $15.15 (177451) Vintages Essential
The 2004 vintage of this wine scored 4½ stars in our 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO, and the 2005 maintains the quality and value. It's a big, fruit-forward, well-structured Cabernet with flavours of black fruit and berries and notes of black pepper and mint. There's a little warmth from the 14% alcohol, but it's well-balanced and an obvious choice for red meat and game. (RP)

New in the LCBO
Look for these wines in the LCBO General List

Australia

**** drink now
Silver Leaf Chardonnay 2006
South Eastern Australia $14.95 1L (252635)
Packaged in an enviro-friendly PET bottle, this round and ready drop is very well-priced given the quality—just $11.21 for 750 mL. Aromas of vanilla, tropical fruit and hints of floral segue you into this medium-bodied Chard. There's good balance and lots of flavour with citrus, peach and ripe pear to the fore. The finish is medium in length. This pairs well with lightly-herbed chicken and veal. (VH)

*** drink now
Silver Leaf Shiraz 2006
South Eastern Australia $14.95/1 litre PET bottle (64840)
This is a straightforward, uncomplicated, fruity red. You'll find sweet fruit flavours of cherry, plum and red berries, hints of spice and mint, and a big, smooth texture. It's ideal for parties and for a wide range of meals, including burgers, pizza, and Mexican take-out. (RP)

California

*** drink now
Plantatree Chardonnay 2005
California $14.95 (65151)
The world's first carbon-positive wine—$2.50 from every purchase goes to Tree Canada to plant one tree. Lifford Wine Agency's owner Steven Campbell earns big kudos for creating this concept and developing the wines. It's made by Ironstone vineyards in California and shipped in bulk to be bottled in Ontario in an enviro-friendly PET bottle. This light- to medium-bodied Chard offers melon and pineapple aromas and flavours of spice, citrus and green apple. The medium-length finish is crisp and clean. It's a pleasant quaffing wine. (VH)

**** drink now
Plantatree Merlot 2005
California $14.95 (65151)
Steven Campbell, Lifford Wine Agency owner's plan is to plant 100 000 trees from this 2005 vintage as $2.50 from each sale goes to Tree Canada to plant one tree. Aromas and flavours of plum, toast and ripe cherry fruit abound in this medium-bodied red. It sports considerable structure and depth and adds on some pleasant spicy notes and moderating tanginess on the finish. A good concept and a good wine. (VH)

France

***1/2 drink now
Arrogant Frog 'Ribet Red' Shiraz 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.20 (619296)
A dwindling share of this particular market segment has spawned the previously-unthinkable—French wine 'critter' labels. And why not, providing they fill the bottles with wine of this quality. Look for a smooth and silky drinking red that offers ripe juicy flavours of cherry, black berry and spice. It's drinking beautifully now—well balanced and offering a fruit forward finish. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Arrogant Frog 'Ribet White' Chardonnay/Viognier 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $13.20 (619718)
This blend offers more than a cheeky name and a memorable label; what's inside is no tadpole, either. Look for a gorgeously-textured wine that uses a creamy texture as its delivery system for alluring aromas and ripe flavours of melon, pit fruit and honeycomb. This is quite delicious sipped on its own and has the weight, texture and flavours to pair beautifully with roast chicken. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château de Courteillac 2005
AOC Bordeaux $11.15 (360552)
This is a popular wine in the LCBO—and why wouldn't it be? For a very reasonable price, you get solid fruit (red cherry, plum, dark berries) with quite decent complexity. The wine has structure and is nicely balanced toward food. Drink it with gourmet burgers, lamb and chicken. (RP)

**** drink now
Léon Beyer Pinot Gris 2005
AOC Alsace $16.20 (165241)
After the aromatic nose, the thing that strikes me first about this wine is its balance. There's lovely citrus acidity here, along with luscious fruit flavours of sweet pear, white peach and apricot, with some notes of honey. It's a lovely sensory experience. The texture is smooth and hints at viscosity without reaching it, and the wine makes a great partner for slightly spicy chicken and pork dishes (think Asian spices). (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Rafale Merlot 2006
Vin de Pays d'Oc $8.20 (526897)
Another good value from the Pays d'Oc, this is a mouth-filling, fruity Merlot that delivers a wallop of black plum and cherry with nice notes of spice and pepper. Tangy-textured and medium-bodied, it's a great choice for parties and for burgers. (RP)

Italy

***1/2 drink now
Cavit 'Collection' Pinot Grigio 2006
IGT delle Venezie, Italy $11.20 (99218)
Remember the name 'Cavit' as there are a number of other wines on the way from this large cooperative. This is a pleasant offering of a light-bodied and refreshing white at a very attractive price. Aromas and flavours are in the citrus and apple zones with a medium finish and nice balance. Made for sipping as an aperitif—there's just a hint of sweetness—it also pairs well with grilled seafood under a squirt of fresh lemon.

****1/2 drink now
Montresor Amarone 2003
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella, Italy $28.85 (240416)
Figs and raisins on the nose, this is a knockout price for an Amarone. Viscous, rich and warm (15% alcohol), the flavours reflect the style and the blistering '03 vintage—prunes, black plum compote, currants, spice and kirsch liqueur. The medium finish adds a hint of fennel. This earned its final half star on value. Stock up before it's gone. (VH)

New Zealand

****1/2 drink now
Brancott Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $14.25 (129528)
The '07 wines are receiving incredible accolades and this from a region that experiences very good vintages virtually every year. Savoury notes and herbaceous nettle aromas form the pungent nose of the medium-bodied and gorgeously-textured gem. The robust and focused flavours include herbs (dill and lemon grass), pink grapefruit and passion fruit. The finish is clean and refreshing, making seared scallops a great pairing. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough $15.25 (288795)
Enjoyable aromas of tropical fruit, leesy notes and citrus open up this medium-bodied and nicely-textured Chard. You'll find flavours in the citrus zone as well as green apple and a hint of melon. The finish is quite zesty with a bite of fresh lime. Pair this with lemon veal or salt and pepper calamari under a squirt of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $15.95 (293043)
Peach and citrus aromas provide segue to this light- to medium-bodied SB from the famed Marlborough region. You'll enjoy good balance with the flavours of citrus, mineral and white peach perfectly in synch with the moderate weight, hints of melon, and tanginess on the finish. Pair this with mussels steamed in herbs and white wine. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Villa Maria 'Private Bin' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough $16.15 (426601)
The '07 vintage is fabulous, and so is this wine. It delivers pungent aromas of passion fruit, nettles and hints of tropical fruit. The fruit-forward flavours are quite racy with gooseberry, pineapple and lemon-lime to the fore. The texture is fabulous, oily and medium-bodied, while the finish is full of vim and verve—loads of citrus and herbaceous flavours. (VH)

Ontario

****1/2 drink now
Angels Gate 'Süssreserve' Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.15 (620104)
This is Germanic in style (süssreserve denotes that a small portion of unfermented Riesling grape juice was added to the already fermented wine), right down to the moderate 9.7% alcohol level. It's also delicious and offers good value. The aromatic profile consists of sweet floral and grapey notes while the flavours are a mélange of sweet and tangy flavours—peach, pineapple, spice and citrus among them. This wine pairs extremely well with spicy Asian dishes. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Harbour Estates Winery 'Harbour Sunrise' 2006
VQA Ontario $11.15 (26880)
Vidal is a grape that shines in icewine but can often make for undistinguished table wine. In this blend, where it's paired with Chardonnay, it shows very nicely. 'Harbour Sunrise' is a just off-dry white that delivers flavours of ripe peach, melon, and sweet pear, with hints of spiciness. A dose of clean citrus acidity lifts the texture and cuts through the fruit sweetness, making this a pleasant sipping wine or a good partner for spicy seafood. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Harbour Estates Winery Baco Noir 2006
VQA Ontario $11.70 (26914)
This is an interesting take on Baco Noir. It's recognizably Baco, but it has a core flavour that's concentrated stewed plum, sweet plum and cherry, with slightly funky—and pleasant—notes of smoke and beet. It's very smooth textured, is dry, has a nice level of acidity, and pairs well with fairly rich meat dishes and burgers. (RP)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Golden Kaan Merlot
WO Western Cape $10.95 (649988)
A straightforward, medium-bodied Merlot that will be popular at parties and with meals of hamburgers or rich pizza. It's fruit forward and bold, with big flavours of dark plum, berries and spice, with underlying notes of smoke and tar. (RP)

Spain

***1/2 drink or cellar
Monticello Crianza Tempranillo 2003
DOC Rioja $14.75 (144493)
'Crianza' means this wine spent one year in an oak barrel plus two years in the bottle, aging in the winery, before being released for sale. Explore the red cherry aromas and red currant flavours then revel in the generous dollop of zesty tanginess in this medium-bodied red. Give it a go with a tangy, zesty dish such as pasta in a spicy tomato sauce. There's good value here. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Osborne Solaz Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $10.50 (610188)
This burgeoning Spanish region turns out value wine—it's a hot new region. It's hot in terms of temperature, as well, so expect rich and flavourful reds. Look for a lifted nose of leather and mixed berry fruit providing segue to a fruit-forward (cherry and bramble berry) well-balanced blend. The finish is warm and lengthy, redolent of cassis and spiced black plum. You must sit up when you find a red of this quality for ten dollars. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
County Cider Company Ice Cider 2006
Prince Edward County 375 mL $24.95
(The incorrect price appeared in the previous Winecurrent review) Like ice wine made from frozen grapes, this is made from frozen apples picked from the tree—only those varieties that do not fall when ripe are chosen—and pressed quickly. Cider-lovers will adore it; late harvest- and ice wine-lovers, will more than adore it. Gorgeous aromas of caramelized apple and peach pie waft from the glass while the sweet (but not cloying) flavours include crème caramel and baked apple. It's glorious on its own and stunning when paired with apple torte. Purchase at County Cider, County Road 8, RR 4 Picton, ON - contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

**** drink now
Coyote's Run Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00
A hint of sulphur on the nose dissipated fairly quickly, to leave aromas and bright, vibrant flavours of pear, apple and green melon, with a note of spiciness. It's medium bodied with a fairly taut texture, and the mineral acidity lifts the flavours nicely. Pair it with grilled herbed chicken breast. Order from the winery at www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote's Run Chardonnay 'Reserve' 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.00
This is a meticulously made wine deserving of your attention. Stunning aromatics drift off the glass of this medium-bodied, well-balanced Chard—spice (nutmeg and cloves) plus toasty notes and vanilla. The flavours are quite focused—apple and pear—while the texture is almost creamy and honeyed, yet the wine is dry and zingy. It finishes fruit forward, clean and refreshing. Pair it with herbed roast chicken. Order from the winery at www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Coyote's Run 'Red Paw Vineyard' Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.00
This is a lighter-style of Pinot that delivers good depth of flavour. It's all about vibrant red cherry and berries with a real mouthful of herbs, peppery spiciness, and hints of toasty oak. The tannins are dry and firm and there's a prominent seam of acidity that makes you want to turn to turkey and cranberry sauce or grilled pork or chicken breast with a red berry compote. Order from the winery at www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Coyotes Run Riesling Ice Wine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $55.00
Lifted aromas, dazzling flavours and an unctuous texture coalesce to mark this a stunning wine. Honeyed mandarin orange and tropical fruit aromas perfume the air while the flavours drench the palate in waves of candied pineapple, citrus peel and caramelized apricot. Robust and viscous, it cleans up with a refreshing spine of moderating acidity. Serve chilled with a peach or apricot dessert and a generous crumble of Roquefort. Order from the winery at www.coyotesrunwinery.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Creekside Estate Winery Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
This is a wonderfully complex Sauvignon Blanc. It runs well beyond the common flavour zones of gooseberry, green fruit, grass and citrus, and encompasses peach, apricot, tropical fruit, notes of honey and spice. There's some fullness to the texture that's nicely counterbalanced by an effective seam of clean acidity, and the overall experience is stylish, poised and refreshing. This will make a delicious accompaniment to grilled white fish and all manner of rich seafood dishes, from mussels to scallops. Order from the winery at www.creeksidewine.com. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Sparkling Riesling 2006
VQA Ontario $28.00
Made in the charmat method, this is a flavour-filled sparkling wine with good, zesty acidity and solid flavours in the sweet apple and pear zones. It's slightly off-dry, and makes an excellent sparkler for Christmas and New Year parties. You can serve it on its own or pair it with spicy seafood or chicken appetizers. Order from the winery at www.fieldingwines.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Viognier 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $30.00
Made from Fielding's seven-year-old estate vines, this delivers quite luscious flavours of fresh apricot, peach and tropical fruit, with a hint of spiciness. It's quite plush and mouth-filling at mid-palate, and finishes leaner, crisp, and clean. It's a very good Viognier that pairs well with slightly spicy chicken and pork dishes. Order from the winery at www.fieldingwines.com. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Mountain Road Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay 2004
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.05
This is a gorgeous Chardonnay that delivers on flavour, texture and balance. The aromas are rich and seductive, all rich, ripe peach and tropical fruit with vanilla and oaky notes that make you want to linger and enjoy them but also make you impatient to see if the flavour matches them. It does. You'll find the same intense fruit flavours, with notes of butterscotch and citrus. The texture is full and refreshing and this makes a great partner for lobster or rich poultry and pork dishes. Order from www.mountainroadwine.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mountain Road Wine Company Barrel Fermented Reserve Chardonnay 2004
VQA Beamsville Bench $26.05
The rather muted aromas of vanilla and tropical fruit hardly prepare one for the huge mouthful of gorgeous wine that waits in the glass. Highly- textured and medium to full bodied, it delivers a cornucopia of delicious flavours including melon, green apple, citrus and ripe pear. It remains taut and well-focused from its moderating acidity and excellent structure. This will continue to develop nicely until 2010 when it then should provide optimum drinking, probably gaining its final half star. Order from www.mountainroadwine.com. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $12.75 (65359)
This is light and lovely with oodles of rosewater and spice aromas that follow through to the flavours. There are also hints of lychee fruit and cloves that meld beautifully with the nicely textured and citrussy finish. This sips well on its own and forms a lively partnership with Asian cuisine. Pair it with sashimi or spicy Thai seafood. Purchase by the case from www.strewnwinery.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Strewn 'Rogue's Lot' Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.75 (65342)
This approximate 50/50 blend offers earthy and black aromas then opens up to be a gorgeous medium-bodied blend that fairly explodes with flavour—spice, smoke, tar, cherry and dark berry included. It's very smooth, ready to drink now and offers a creamily-textured and fruit-forward finish. It also offers very good value. Purchase by the case from www.strewnwinery.com. (VH)

New in Restaurants

**** drink now
Les Ventelles Vacqueras 2005
AOC Vacqueras $24.95
A delicious Vacqueras that's full of sweet and vibrant red and dark cherry fruit with notes of spice, pepper and wild herbs. It's high-toned, with good acidity running throughout, has pleasantly drying tannins, and it finishes with the complexity that you find in mid-palate. Pair this with lamb chops, well seasoned and grilled medium-rare. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $19.80
moke, oak and mint on the nose, this is quite a lovely wine. Expect a medium-bodied red with ripe and silky tannins and deft balance between the sweet juicy fruit—black cherry and boysenberry—and the moderating acidity. The finish is lengthy and replays the fruit flavours while adding a note of spice box. It's quite round and is drinking perfectly now. Pair this with grilled strip loin. For delivery to your home by the case in Eastern Ontario, E-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)
Cheers,

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar