Katnook Merlot 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95
Katnook winemaker Wayne Stehbens does it again. This is a gorgeous Merlot that has full-on, intense fruit: black plum and berries to the fore. But this is no jammy number, and it keeps its complexity and structure, all enhanced by poised acidity and ripe tannins. Derek Butler, Katnook's Canadian representative, describes this as "Merlot grown up." He might be a little biased, of course, but I think he's dead on. (RP)

Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.75 (605741)
Like Peter Lehmann himself, this Cabernet makes its presence felt in the room. It's big, brash and bold. There the analogy ends, unless Lehmann is full of dark fruit and berry flavours, with notes of licorice, chocolate and coffee. It's well structured, well balanced, and has a firm tannic grip. Drink it with red meats, of course. (RP)

Schild Estate Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22-25
There's a hint of soy sauce on the nose, but the flavours settle in to rich crushed black berries and dark cherry, with notes of pepper and mint. Look for a tangy texture, good balance and a long spicy finish. It goes well with well-seasoned, grilled red meats. (RP)