by Susan Desjardins

Ruffino was established by cousins Ilario and Leopoldo in 1877 near Florence, winning medals at prestigious European wine fairs as early as 1895. The company passed to the Folonari brothers in 1913 and by 1916, Ruffino had been appointed the official wine supplier to the royal Italian court. Over the years, the family has added a number of properties including Santedame in Chianti Classico and the Montalcino estate. In 1994 they purchased LodolaNuova to produce Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and la Solatia for the production of Tuscan white wines.

They now own eight estates in Tuscany, six of which produce Chianti Classico while one, near Valiano, produces Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Greppone Mazzi Estate produces Brunello. Ruffino’s first vintage of Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino was produced in 1979 from Sangiovese Grosso growing at an elevated altitude on the poor, rocky soils of the estate. Vinified in a traditional manner using medium-large oak casks—ensuring the Sangiovese expresses true varietal and terroir character—the wine has come to be known for its elegant style. Both the 2004 and 2005 were awarded the highly prized ‘three glasses’ by Gambero Rosso.


Ruffino ‘Greppone Mazzi’ Brunello di Montalcino 2004
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $49.95 (926402) 13.5% alcohol
Inhale and savor the lifted floral, red fruit, spice and earthy aromas of this magnificent wine. Elegant and complex, dry, medium bodied, the wine displays a superb balance of fine-grained tannins, fresh acidity and lively red cherry and berry fruit. There’s a refined, well-crafted tension between the impact of the fruit and the lasting freshness of the wine on the finish. A wine for contemplation, now or over the next decade. (Susan Desjardins)