by Susan Desjardins

Eleven wineries from the southern Italian region of Puglia were recently showcased in Ottawa, Montreal and Toronto, hosted by Ottawa’s DiVino Wine Studio. It was an outstanding opportunity to discover the range and quality of wines being created in this less-celebrated region. The winery principals displayed pride in their region and wine. They’re firmly rooted in the fundamental practices of agriculture with great depth of history and tradition. In the 3^rd century B.C., the capital of ancient Greece was located in Puglia. Ancient amphoras from the 1^st century B.C. have been excavated near Brindisi—wine has a long and illustrious history here.

On a map, Puglia is the narrow, spiked heel of Italy’s boot, with wide-ranging terroir benefiting from heat, sunshine and the sea breezes of the Mediterranean. There are lower-mountain hills of limited elevation, but the region is known for its sunny, hot, fertile plain blanketed by olive trees, wheat fields and vineyards that benefit from the iron-rich soil—a mixture red clay and limestone. It’s Italy’s largest agricultural region, responsible for the production of 65% of Italy’s table grapes and, surprisingly, 40% of its extra-virgin olive oil—12% of the total EU production. Due to the hot sunny climate and drying winds, the region is ideally suited to organic agriculture. Producers such as Cefalicchio have converted to biodynamic production while Torrevento has won ‘green’ awards for its use of solar power.

In addition to the umbrella Puglia appellation, there are five defined wine territories; from north to south they are—Daunia, Murge, Valle d’Itria, Messapia and Salento. The even-smaller sub-appellations include 26 DOCs. As well, there are 6 IGT regions—Puglia, Daunia, Murgia, Valle d’Itria, Tarantino, Salento. You may be most familiar with the DOCs from Primitivo di Manduría, Salice Salentino, and Copertino. Traditionally, Puglia has produced a significant volume of wine—competing with Sicily as the largest regional producer—usually in large cooperatives with only a small portion classified as DOC.

The unique architecture of Murgia, Puglia, Italy.

The industry is now reemerging with a new generation of entrepreneurial local growers, many present at this Wines of Puglia tasting, producing branded wines from their own grapes and garnering international acclaim. That entrepreneurial spirit proudly combines tradition and innovation. Winery principals from outside the region are purchasing existing vineyards and focusing on the production of IGT and DOC wines. Antinori, for example, has taken a large position, marketing wines from their Puglia operation under the Tormaresca brand. The goal of the modern Pugliese wine industry—to produce attractive, elegant wines at a reasonable price.

Italy is known for its incredible number of indigenous grape varieties; it’s thought to have as many as 2,500 with only about 1,000 identified. The most recognizable wines of Puglia are produced from the following autochthonous red varietals—Negroamaro, Primitivo, Nero di Troia and Montepulciano—usually full flavoured and well priced. Local white varieties such as Bombino Bianco and Fiano are reappearing—they’re delicate, crisp and flavourful. The region also fashions some outstanding rosé wines, primarily from Montepulciano and Negroamaro. A few smaller producers and newer arrivals to the region are planting typical vitis vinifera vines such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon for the production of IGT wines.

Vines in Daunia, Puglia, Italy.

Some of the wines tasted are available in Canada with others slated for future releases. Given the quality and value one would expect to see more making their way to local markets. In general, the LCBO stocks Puglia’s Negroamaro and Primitivo wines in the general LCBO product section. Generally under $15, they offer good value.

The following two wines, tasted at the event, are currently available in the Vintages section of select LCBO stores:


Torrevento ‘Torre de Falco’ 2007
IGT Murgia $15.95 (161414) 13.5% alcohol
Torrevento produced their first, single-varietal Nero di Troia in 1994. Steel fermented, this displays pure red berry fruit and spice aromas. Dry and medium bodied, it has a core of fresh fruity flavour with underlying notes of spice, bitter-sweet chocolate and honeyed toast. Easy-drinking, it’s soft and fresh with appealing warmth on the finish. Serve it with your favorite meat-based pasta dish. (Susan Desjardins)


Vigne e Vini ‘Tatu’ Primitivo de Tarantino 2007
IGT Primitivo de Tarantino $12.40 (160390) 14.0% alcohol
Nicely priced, this blend of Primitivo and Aglianico (80/20) has attractive aromas of ripe, dark spicy fruit with a hint of tobacco. Medium bodied, it’s lush and fruity with ripe tannins, moderating acidity, complex flavours on the palate—dark berries and cherries, spice, leather and licorice. Dry on the finish, it’s easy to enjoy and a great match for grilled meats with a sweet tomato-based BBQ sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

This Aglianico is available in Vintages Online Exclusives:

Tormaresca ‘Bocca di Lupo’ 2004, $35.00 (926311)

Wines tasted at the Wines of Puglia event include the following:


D’Alfonso del Sordo ‘Posta Arignano’ Rosato 2009
DOC San Severo, Puglia, Italy 12.5% alcohol
Produced from Montepulciano grapes, this pale pink rosé has a delicate nose of fresh red fruit with a spark of pepper. Light-medium bodied, tangy red fruit washes across the palate—raspberry and cranberry—carried on a fine stream of acidity through the mid-length finish. Serve as an aperitif, or with seafood appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)


Alberto Longo ‘Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera’ 2008
DOC Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera, Puglia Italy 13.0% alcohol
Lifted, alluring aromas—floral, spice and dark fruit—provide segue to a dazzling wash of succulent flavour with juicy, concentrated black currant jam, tar and licorice to the fore. It’s mid weight and generously textured. This is well structured, deftly balanced providing a delightful tasting experience with a rustic, lingering aftertaste of tangy pie cherry, leather and gamy notes underpinned by a solid tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)


Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli ‘Vigna Grande’ 2007
DOC Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy 13.0%
100% Nero di Troia, this is highly perfumed—scents of honeysuckle, strawberry and exotic incense abound. Complex, rich and concentrated flavours—black currant, racy cranberry and dark ripe cherry—wash over the palate persisting through the balanced, lingering aftertaste. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, it’s framed by good acidity with supple tannin providing interest and structure. (Vic Harradine)


Torrevento ‘Vigna Pedale’ Rosso Riserva 2006
DOC Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy $19.95 13.0% alcohol
Balanced, dry and full bodied, this complex, flavourful hand-harvested gem streams like satin across the palate and lingering aftertaste. Fashioned from the Nero di Troia grape and hailing from an historic DOC, this deeply coloured red was aged 12 months in large 5000-litre French oak ‘botti’ barrels. It has lush aromas of dark berries, licorice, sweet herbs and vanilla with an underlying minerality. Beautifully structured, it displays complex flavours of mocha and rich, ripe, blackberry and plum with a replay of spicy, licorice notes. (Susan Desjardins)


Torrevento ‘Il Selva’ 2009
DOC Locorotondo, Puglia, Italy 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral, mineral and green apple waft from this light-on-its-feet white blend—Verdeca, Bianco d’alessano and Fiano. It’s crisp and refreshing with delicate, yet distinctive flavours that persist on the palate and racy finish with ripe pear, crisp green apple mingling with nuances of minerality. Chill only slightly and sip on its own or serve with lighter appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

 

Large 'Botti' Barrels.