The following wraps up a tour and tasting at nine carefully chosen Victoria, Australia wineries. The first four—BlackJack, Blue Pyrenees, Mitchelton and Stonier were published in the Victoria, Australia feature with the February 20 issue of winecurrent.
The purpose was to discover and share with subscribers tasting notes and comments regarding wines from small and medium-sized, possibly lesser-known, cool-climate wineries producing wines with finesse, sense of place, complexity and structure. The final five follow.
De Bortoli Wines - Steve Webber is Head Winemaker, husband of Leanne De Bortoli, and passionate about, possibly obsessed with, two things—producing wines that expresss terroir through environmentally sustainable practices and Pinot Noir. Three, if you count Leanne. “We need wines that express the soil, not the sun. There’s a real need to move away from over-worked jammy wines toward those that express a sense of place and that means more emphasis on learning about the soils, aspect, geology in each vineyard or block, planting the proper variety, even clone, and becoming true stewards of the land for future generations,” Steve explained. Upon tasting, their wines play down oak, play up terroir expressing deft balance and a very generous mouthfeel. The water, packaging and waste management programs at DeBortoli meld with their biological farming methods plus compost and mulch program in attempting to become ‘The Zero Waste Wine Company’. On board with the philosophy at De Bortoli and a crackerjack winemaker herself, is Sarah Fagan, recent recipient of ‘Young Winemaker of the Year’ at the 2009 Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine Awards. With a strong agricultural background, a degree from Charles Sturt and a straight-up personality, she’s turning a few heads with her well-made wine.
De Bortoli Wines ‘Sauvignon’ 2008
Yarra Valley $25.00 13.0% alcohol
And now for something completely different—it’s Sauvignon Blanc, but not what you’re expecting. This was fermented and lees stirred for five months in well-seasoned oak also undergoing malolactic fermentation. Bright yellow with green hues, aromas of vanilla and tropical fruit waft from the glass. It’s medium bodied and very generously textured, almost creamy on the palate. There’s a lovely meld of racy flavours with lemon sorbet, hints of minerality and ripe pit fruit predominant. It cleans up crisp and refreshing, a portend of a lovely pairing with pan-seared garlic-smeared prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
De Bortoli Wines Chardonnay 2008
Yarra Valley $30.00 13.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of toast, pear and nutty nuances open this mid-weight nicely textured white—it was fermented and aged in seasoned oak with battonage. Hand picked and whole-bunch pressed, this shows more acuity than most with a focused stream of crisp refreshing flavour—green apple, mineral notes and ripe citrus. The finish is laser-like, clean and refreshing. Outstanding sipped on its own, with each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)
Melba ‘Lucia’ 2007
Yarra Valley $30.00 13.0% alcohol
This go-for-the-gusto blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese matches well to the tastes of wine-lovers prefering meaty wine and/or meat with their wine. Savoury, mocha and dark berry fruit on the nose, it’s medium to full bodied, well textured and chockful of flavour. Look for bramble berry, cassis and minty savoury notes on the palate and throughout the lengthy dry finish. There is perceptable tannin and good moderating acidity for balance. Pour alongside osso bucco with mushroom risotto, now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
De Bortoli Wines Shiraz Viognier 2008
Yarra Valley $30.00 14.5% alcohol
With a touch of 5% Viognier, this opens up with lifted and tantalizing aromas of dark berry, mineral, slate and espresso roast. The flavours are spicy and complex with oodles of succulent mulberry, pie cherry and spiced black plum. The short term oak ageing—10 months in mostly well seasoned barrels—has been fully integrated. It’s mid weight and nicely balanced with a creamy mouth feel and sporting a lip-smacking tangy lengthy finish. Pair with lamb daube. (Vic Harradine)
De Bortoli Wines ‘Reserve Release’ Pinot Noir 2008
Yarra Valley $50.00 13.5% alcohol
Mineral, slate, spice, savoury, earthy aromas mingle with red berry fruit and roll freely from the involved nose of this gem. Beautifully focused, there are flavours of ripe cranberry, pie cherry and spiced mixed dark berry fruit. This is full of nerve and verve, dry, and nicly balanced. Structured, complex with good texture, it spent 25 days on the skins. Stylistically more Old World than New, it’s delectable. Pour alongside boeuf bourgignon. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chandon – in the 1960s, Moet and Chandon, knowing the size of Champagne and wine production was finite—although it has now been recently enlarged—founded sites around the world in which to make more sparkling wine. In the 1980s Australia, and this exquisite facility in the Yarra Valley, was chosen. With its close proximity to Melbourne being under an hour’s drive, over 100 000 visitors a year marvel at the architecture, the 40 000 bottle riddling hall and 40 hectares of pristine vines—planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier—alongside a fabulous cellar door and restaurant. They also have vineyards and managed sites in premium properties in the Strathbogie and Macedon Ranges as well as in Coonawarra, South Australia and Tasmania. They’ve received rave reviews for their still and sparkling wines, the latter made in the same method as Champagne with the second fermentation completed in the bottle you purchase and pour from. Leveraging 250 years of history and winemaking, they’ve developed this exciting and popular range of wines. Winecurrent met with winemaker, Adam Keath, and was generously treated to a tasting of their premium offerings.
Domaine Chandon Sparkling ‘Zero Dosage’ 2005
Australia $35.00 12.5% alcohol
Apple, citrus and toasty notes on the nose, this dry and racy offering delivers zesty flavours of Granny Smith apple, white peach and lemon zest. Dancing lightly on the palate, the perlage is fine-beaded while the texture is most generous. It finishes in a blaze of citrusy tang making it the perfect partner with bacalhau a bras, a delightful Portuguese salt cod dish. And, it should stay just as this review describes it, being sealed with a crown cap—in 2004 Chandon pioneered the first sparkling in Australia to be released in this manner. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chandon Sparkling Brut 2006
Australia $31.00 12.5% alcohol
This is an elegant bubbly made only from the cuvée—the first and best juice obtained from the press—and a blend of three grapes—Pinot Noir-52%, Chardonnay-45% and Pinot Meuniere-3%. Aromas of baking brioche and leesy notes give way to a wash of citrus, pit fruit and slightly honeyed pear flavours. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a crisp and refreshing finish. Paired perfectly with chicken a la king. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chandon Sparkling Brut Rosé Non-Vintage
Australia $25.00 12.5% alcohol
This lovely aperitif wine is quite fruit forward on the nose and palate with aromas and flavours of red berry fruit and spiced black plum mingling with notes of red currant. The blend is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, spending 15 months on lees. It’s light on its feet with delicate texture, excellent balance and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste that layers on a sprig of spice. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chandon Chardonnay 2008
Yarra Valley $39.95 13.0% alcohol
Alluring spice, toasty, mineral and nutty aromas drift from this deftly balanced gorgeous Chardonnay. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a palate-coating mélange of flavour with tropical fruit, white peach and lemon sorbet to the fore. There’s great purity of fruit, without being overdone. It finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering lip-smacking tang; it was tough to spit. Pair with roast fowl or roast pork stuffed with dried fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Chandon Shiraz 2007
Heathcote $30.00 14.0% alcohol
Derived from low-yield—1 ½ ton per acre—tiny berry, premium fruit, this dazzling expression of Victorian Shiraz is perfectly balanced and chockfull of flavour. Spice, black licorice and black pepper aromas segue a gusher of flavour with succulent mulberry, pie cherry and black plum predominant. The 18 months in oak barrel—25% new and all French—has been well integrated while the polished tannin structure adds interest and texture. A beautifully structured red with a touch of class. (Vic Harradine)
Plunkett Fowles – located in an area dubbed ‘Victoria’s High Country’, you’ll find vineyards at 150m to 650m, low humidity, hills strewn with granite boulders, granitic soils and the perfect meso climate for crisp, well-balanced wine. The region was first planted by Alan Plunkett in 1968, followed by others including Domaine Chandon. The Plunkett and Fowles family were both interested in a neighbouring vineyard that was for sale. Unaware of the other’s interest, Matt Fowles phoned Sam Plunkett and asked what he knew of the vineyard and what he could tell him about the chances of success if he bought it. Sam answered with a laugh, “I know a lot, but can’t tell you anything; our family’s thinking of buying it ourselves!” Over a glass of wine, they discussed all the options, shortly after recommending to each family they form a partnership. That was 2005 and the rest, as they say, is history. The names of their wines each tell a story—the ‘Stone Dwellers’ from the aboriginal people who originally lived here amongst huge the granite boulders, the ‘Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch’ refers to hunting and the style of wine that pairs with hearty foods and game, while ‘The Rule’, is their best known and most decorated wine. It’s earned the right to be known as ‘the rule’. Sam handles the wine making and Matt the sales, marketing and business strategy. They and their wines have earned a spot on LCBO Vintages’ shelves. Keep an eye and give them a try—there’s one offered in the May 15, 2010 Vintages release.
Plunkett Fowles ‘Stone Dwellers’ Chardonnay 2008
Strathbogie Ranges $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of toast, vanilla and spice roll off this exceptionally well-balanced and flavourful cool-climate gem. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and delivers layers of complex flavours. Yellow plum, pear and green apple meld with crisp and refreshing citrus on the palate persisting through the lingering aftertaste. The oak is well integrated adding only texture and structure. Roast pork with savoury apple stuffing makes a great dance partner. (Vic Harradine)
Plunkett Fowles ‘Stone Dwellers’ Riesling 2008
Strathbogie Ranges $21.95 13.0% alcohol
Mineral, slate and lemon-lime on the nose, this dishes out a zesty mouthful of citrus, honeyed notes, hints of rosewater and grapefruit pith. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a well-balanced and lengthy finish. Lovely as a quaffer, it also pairs well with onion tart. (Vic Harradine)
Plunkett Fowles ‘Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch’ Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2008
Strathbogie Ranges $34.95 14.0% alcohol
This is a ripper; it’s good to go now and on to 2016 showing good structure and complexity throughout. Toasty oak and spice box aromas segue a palate-coating wash of rich luscious flavours with vanilla, persimmon, lemon sorbet and crisp zesty Granny Smith apple among them. It’s mid weight with a creamy texture and a layered lengthy finish. Pour alongside stuffed roast chicken or pork with roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Plunkett Fowles ‘Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch’ Riesling 2009
Strathbogie Ranges $34.95 11.50% alcohol
Very aromatic, the nose suggests white peach, apple and mere wisps of oak. The mouth feel is extremely generous and it’s well balanced and full of flavour—savoury spice, pit fruit and zesty lemon. There’s a smidgeon of Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer adding lift and interest. It’s light to medium bodied dishing out a lip-smacking and mid-length finish. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs well with pan-seared tuna under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Plunkett Fowles ‘The Rule - Reserve’ Shiraz 2006
Strathbogie Ranges $39.95 14.5% alcohol
This delivers a stunning full-bore mouthful of nicely structured complex Shiraz, leaving nothing in the tank. Perfumed and aromatic, there’s dark fruit, black pepper and black licorice on the nose. Succulent flavours of ripe mulberry, black currant and cherry wash in waves throughout the lengthy luxurious aftertaste. The oak’s been deftly integrated and the tannin nicely resolved, although still providing a firm underpinning. It’s big, bold and balanced. Pour with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Yering Station – family owned and steeped in history, this is Victoria’s oldest vineyard site with vines being planted here in 1838. Unfortunately, they were pulled in the early 1900s with vines not being replanted until 1988. Blessed with a variety of soils and sites—from the Yarra Valley floor to higher elevations, Yering Station has been identified by respected Langton’s as one of Australia’s emerging star wineries. A recent partnership with Champagne Devaux of France produces a method traditional sparking. With a quarter century of winery involvement and a degree in Applied Science (Oenology) from Adelaide University behind him, Chief Winemaker, Willy Lunn, is still as passionate as a first-day cellar hand, as he now puts his personal stamp on the wine under his care. Winecurrent caught up with him in the middle of the 2010 crush, always hectic, but with Willy marshalling activity with the skill of a seasoned maestro, even taking time to chat. “The fruit left on the vine and what we’ve brought in looks excellent, whites and reds, and our next challenge is getting the balance in by Friday as we’re expecting rain. Most of our grapes are Chardonnay, Shiraz and Pinot Noir and my goal is to allow all the fruit and the specific sites where it’s grown to make their statement. Everything that’s done here in the winery is in a supportive role—important and meticulously handled—but it’s what happened in the vineyard before and as we harvest that dictates the quality of the wine and we do everything in our power to get that right,” Willy offered. As you’ll discover in the reviews below, the grapes, Willy and team all got it right. Winecurrent tasted two Mount Langi Ghiran wines, part of a larger family-run portfolio including Yering Station, and given the quality, were compelled to review them.
Yarrabank Sparkling Brut 2005
Victoria $38.00 13.0% alcohol
Single-vineyard sourced from fruit grown at 350m and left 4 years on the lees, this 53% Chardonnay / 47% Pinot Noir blend is linear, focused and simply delicious. It opens with aromas of lees and citrus and a fine-beaded mousse. The palate’s treated to a nicely textured persistent stream of crisp refreshing flavour with Granny Smith apple and lemon pie filling to the fore. The aftertaste is crisp, refreshing and well balanced. Lovely as an aperitif, it has the oomph to pour well with oyster Kilpatrick. (Vic Harradine)
Yering Station ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2005
Yarra Valley $75.00 13.5% alcohol
Golden-hued with a rich luscious nose, this is elegant and beautifully structured. The involved bouquet offers up apple, mineral, lemon-lime and nutty notes. It’s creamy textured, mid weight and delivers layers of refreshing fruit flavour—white peach, spiced yellow plum and crisp green apple—a persistent stream of moderating acidity with a lingering balanced refreshing finish. It’ll repay medium-term cellaring, but is lovely to drink now, on its own or alongside roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)
Yering Station Shiraz Viognier 2006
Yarra Valley $25.00 14.5% alcohol
Introduced by a lifted and layered nose of spice box, mulberry and tarry notes, you’ll find persistent balanced and concentrated flavours on the palate with succulent dark cherry, bramble berry and juicy cassis to the fore. It’s fully flavoured, generously textured with oodles of charm and structure. The aftertaste lingers with good moderating acidity mingling with ripe polished tannin for structure and interest. This sips beautifully on its own with the gumption to pair well with hearty meats and stews. (Vic Harradine)
Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Cliff Edge’ Shiraz 2005
Grampians $25.00 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry, mineral and spice aromas waft easily from this beautifully balanced and fully flavoured cool-climate Shiraz. This was handled gently—hand-plunged during 20 days cold soak then aged in 100% French oak barrels with barely 25% new. The alluring aromas replay on the palate with succulent black currant, ripe boysenberry and spiced black Blood plum. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and deftly balanced with seamlessly integrated oak, a perceptible underpinning of polished tannin and good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Langi Shiraz’ Shiraz 2005
Grampians $75.00 14.5% alcohol
Sourced from the prestigious ‘Old Block’, the 47 year-old vines are nestled in free-draining granitic soils. Lifted aromas of spice box, black pepper and mixed field berry segue palate-coating flavours of ripe blueberry, juicy pie cherry and succulent black Damson plum. This is perfectly balanced, mid weight and fully textured sporting a luscious and layered finish. Marked by firm structure, fully integrated French oak and complexity, the ‘Langi Shiraz’ has been twice runner-up for the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy. Drink now, after a two-hour decant, and on to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk – this is Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery and vineyard. Their '1860 Vines' Shiraz is produced from 1/2 hectare of un-grafted, pre-phylloxera, Hermitage-sourced vines—amongst the oldest in the world. The Purbrick family purchased the winery in 1925 with 4th generation Alister Purbrick now winemaker and CEO. It’s located in the Nagambie Lakes region of Central Victoria—100 km north of Melbourne. To indigenous people, ‘tabilk-tabilk’ means ‘place of many waterholes’. The moderating effect the water has on the growing conditions allowed the region to gain its ‘Nagambie Lakes’ Geographical Indication. In 1995 Tahbilk established a ‘wetlands and wildlife reserve’. Opening officially in 2005, the eco-friendly lagoon cruises and walking paths plus the Wetlands Café attract many visitors. The winery is focused on attention to detail blending old and new using century-old large oak fermentation vats for their reds while white wine production is completed in stainless steel tanks in an adjacent modern facility. Tahbilk has the largest single planting of Marsanne in the world. Alister has great vision for the winery and continues the traditions created by his grandfather Eric Stevens Purbrick—their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz carry his name. Tahbilk is proudly one of Australia’s twelve ‘first families of wine’. The 22 wines offered to winecurrent had wonderful balance, purity of fruit, fully integrated oak and showed a strong sense of place via detectable aroma and flavour relationships between differing vintages.
Tahbilk Marsanne 2009
Nagambie Lakes $12.55 13.5% alcohol
Pear, floral and honeyed nuances on the nose, this opens up nicely on the palate with tangy citrus and ripe white peach flavours. This dances lightly with nice texture, good balance and a crisp refreshing aftertaste. It sips well on its own and pairs well with sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk Marsanne 2002
Nagambie Lakes $17.95 12.5% alcohol
A rich luscious bouquet of poached pear, citrus and beeswax segue layered and delightful palate-coating waves of unctuous honeyed tree fruit and tangy lemon pie filling flavours. Fully developed and displaying its development with grace and complexity, it’s balanced, medium bodied, generously textured and dishes up a tangy crisp finish. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk ‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne 2000
Nagambie Lakes $31.45 11.0% alcohol
As the name suggests, it’s made from 83-year-old vines. This near-religious tasting experience opens with a glorious nose of honeysuckle, slate, mineral notes and citrus. On the palate there are complex and layered flavours of key lime sorbet, candied citrus and baked apple. It’s mid weight, deftly balanced, beautifully textured and glides along on a spine of ripe citrus acidity, finishing up with mouth-watering tang and verve. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk Viognier 2009
Nagambie Lakes $15.25 14.0% alcohol
Floral, white pepper, apricot and spice aromas drift from the complex nose while the palate’s treated to flavours of white peach, tropical fruit, citrus and spice that builds into a lengthy, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. It’s medium weight and nicely textured. This is a drink-me-now offering—delicious now and over the next 2 years. Pan-seared scallops make a perfect pairing. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk Chardonnay 2008
Nagambie Lakes $12.55 13.0% alcohol
Toasty, vanilla and spice on the nose, this delivers a nicely balanced refreshing mouthful of value-driven wine. With a bare whiff of well-integrated oak showing through, this struts its stuff with green apple, ripe citrus and nuances of caramel on the palate, and a lingering racy refreshing finish. A patio-sipping white, it has the structure to pour well with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk ‘Eric Stevens Purbrick’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Nagambie Lakes $53.95 14.0% alcohol
Rich, luscious and concentrated, this flagship red delivers the goods… and then some. Dark berry fruit and minty black cherry aromas segue a gusher of balanced and luscious mouth-filling flavour with succulent boysenberry, juicy Bing cherry and dark chocolate to the fore. Perfectly balanced, full-bodied and creamy textured, it’s underpinned by a firm tannin structure and moderated by excellent acidity. The memorable finish showcases a chocolate-dipped cherry flavour. Drink 2012 to 2020 (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk ‘Eric Stevens Purbrick’ Shiraz 2004
Nagambie Lakes $53.95 14.0% alcohol
This is fashioned from +75-year-old vines; it opens with aromas of espresso roast, dark berry fruit and black licorice. It’s mid weight with good complexity, a generous mouth feel and fully flavoured with spiced black plum, minty bramble berry and a gusher of ripe juicy black cherry galore. The layered lengthy aftertaste replays the flavours and wonderful balance adding fine-grained tannin to the mix. Drink now, after a three-hour decant, and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Tahbilk ‘1860 Vines’ Shiraz 2004
Nagambie Lakes $112.45 14.% alcohol
Dark plum, mineral and spice aromas abound from this iconic Shiraz, produced from 150-year-old vines originally sourced from Hermitage, Rhône Valley in France. This displays an incredibly mellow and smooth texture and is mid weight with oodles of savoury, tapenade and spice box nuances mingling with red and black berry fruit with hints of black pepper. There’s a firm underpinning of ripe polished tannin. The mid-length finish delivers more of the same. It’s a privilege to nose and taste. (Vic Harradine)