However, you may know them better for their Pinot Noir, they’re one of the world’s largest producers of the ‘heartbreak grape’. They have 4 wines listed in the LCBO product range with 3 of them reviewed below—Pinot Noir, Merlot, Shiraz—plus the Viognier having been reviewed previously in winecurrent; it’s a big favourite. The name ‘Cono Sur’ is Spanish referring to their geography, not a slick knock-off for the French ‘connoisseur’. They’re located in the ‘southern cone’, a prosperous geographically shaped area in southern South America.
One could have asked, what’s red, white, rosé, and green all over? The answer would be the same, Viña Cono Sur! Since they began in 1993, environmental concern has been an integral part of their mantra. They were formed, and are wholly owned, by Concha Y Toro. In 2007 they became the first winery in the world to obtain CarbonNeutral® delivery status for balancing the CO2 emissions of the shipping of its products.
Winemaking Manager, Matías Ríos, was in Ontario at Petit Bill’s Bistro on Wellington and winecurrent.com was there to taste and record his thoughts passing them along to you. He began, “Everyone at Cono Sur is totally committed to organic and sustainable agriculture. This is the way to have balance in nature and our wine. We’re forging ahead toward bio-dynamic status, as well.” His enthusiasm was palpable and his commitment striking. He added, “The bicycle on the label is a symbol of our keeping things simple, being enviro-friendly. But not just a symbol, that’s how we, all the workers, get around the vineyard, on one of the many bicycles placed there.” Their website tells of sheep in the vineyards—they trample down weeds between the vines and become effective lower leaf-trimmers. They also have geese, gaggles of them, and I enquired as to their purpose. Matías responded, “Our geese love to eat burritos—not the kind in a tortilla, but an insect found in the ground that eats the shoots of the vine. Some burritos make their way up the vine. We tie a strip of cloth soaked in garlic and glue part way up the vine, the burritos dislike the smell and head back down where the geese are waiting. This is an example of dealing with a pest without the use of pesticides.”
He continued, “The red spider is also a pest, it attacks the leaf of the vine. We plant grass to provide refuge for the white spider, a natural enemy of the red spider, but one that does not attack the vine. California thrips are another threat as it eats the flowers of the vines preventing the natural evolution of fruit. We plant flowers between the vines to attract the thrips keeping them away from the flowering vine.” It was obvious Matías was just getting warmed up, but we had wines to taste. Winecurrent.com thanked him profusely and began swirling, sniffing, sipping and spitting—the reviews follow.
Viña Cono Sur Merlot 2008
DO Central Valley $9.95 (457176) 13.5% alcohol
Toasted oak, black currant and dark chocolate on the nose, there’s a tangy wash of racy pie cherry and black Damson plum on the palate. It’s medium in body and texture and delivers a finish with herbaceous hints and slightly grainy tannin. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese sprinkled with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2008
DO Central Valley $10.95 (341602) 13.5% alcohol
Sourced, equally, from 3 valleys—Casablanca, Colchagua, Bio Bio—this punches well above the price. Aromas of black currant, spiced black Damson plum and freshly sliced strawberry abound. It delivers a generous mouth feel and incredible balance throughout. Look for bramble berry fruit, cherry and kirsch liqueur flavours on the palate with hints of chocolate interwoven in the fruit-packed lengthy finish. There’s just enough tannin for structure and interest, making it the perfect dance partner with veal medallions or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur Shiraz 2007
DO Colchagua Valley $9.95 (64295) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, cherry and black pepper express themselves freely on the expansive nose of this flavourful red. It’s mid weight nicely textured and well balanced. Ripe cranberry, mulberry and red cherry flavours stream through the drying, firm-tannin finish. Had mine with spicy meat-laden pizza and it worked well. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur ‘Sustainable Agriculture’ Pinot Noir 2008
DO Colchagua Valley 14.0% alcohol
This single vineyard effort—Santa Elisa Estate in Chimbarongo—will meet full organic standards in ’09. It’s incredibly smooth and silky with very expressive aromas of exotic spice, mixed dark field berry fruit and nuances of mocha. The succulent flavour glides along the palate with ripe mulberry, racy red cherry and spice-infused black currant to the fore. Mid weight, nicely textured and like all Cono Sur reds, it’s deftly balanced. The lengthy lip-smacking finish layers on spiced black plum and pie cherry flavours. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur ‘Vision’ Pinot Noir 2008
DO Colchagua Valley $16.95 (689992) 14.0% alcohol
Primarily single-vineyard sourced, the 41-year-old Pinot Noir vines are amongst the oldest in Chile. The meagre hand-harvested yield was limited—4 tonne per ha. Blackberry fruit, dried currant and savoury herb aromas segue a persistent offering of complex flavours—more blackberry, spice-infused dark succulent cherry, espresso roast and wisps of oak. Mid weight, generously textured and perfectly balanced, the lingering finish dishes out lip-smacking fruit flavour within a ripe supple tannin structure—delectable! (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur ‘Limited Edition 20 Barrels’ Pinot Noir 2007
DO Casablanca Valley $27.95 (684530) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, robust and brimming with purity of fruit and complexity, this offers aromas and flavours of bramble berry, cassis and spiced black Damson plum. Hand picked, hand sorted, carbonic maceration then foot trodden, it’s a carefully honed jewel. This is medium bodied, generously textured and finely balanced with a long finish of juicy black Bing cherry and the sweet smell of jasmine wrapped in a firm tannin structure. Aerate/decant for two hours before pouring alongside classic duck à l’orange. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cono Sur ‘Ocio’ Pinot Noir 2007
DO Casablanca Valley 14.0% alcohol
The expressive nose, complex flavour and perfect balance set up a near-religious tasting experience—hand harvested, hand sorted and foot trodden, it’s a gem in a pristine setting. Savoury spice, floral notes and dark berry fruit aromas spill from the glass of this mid-weight generously textured Pinot. A persistent wash of rich and complex flavours coat the palate with cassis, dark chocolate, blueberry and succulent black Bing cherry. The finish lingers, the tannin’s perceptible and the after taste is mouth-watering delicious. Aerate/decant two hours before serving—drink now to 2017. (Vic Harradine)