by Vic Harradine

It’s been a little more than a decade since Geoffrey Heinricks and others began digging and planting vines in the limestone-rich terroir of Prince Edward County (PEC)—pick up his book, ‘A Fool and Forty Acres’, it’s a great read. Ten short years, considering twenty plus wineries now crush grapes in ‘the County’ having clawed out a piece of legislative history by earning a VQA-regulated appellation.

Caroline Granger, owner of The Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards and Estate Winery and Dan Sullivan, owner/winemaker of Rosehall Run Vineyards. Two prominent luminaries of Prince Edward County wine region.

There are wine drinkers who remain skeptical about Canadian wine—even from established regions—in spite of Canada’s best measuring up well on the world wine stage. For them, PEC is even more of a stretch. They’re missing the boat, times are changing. And it’s all taken time with wineries experimenting with Chardonnay planted here and Pinot Noir there and difficult-to-ripen Cabernet Sauvignon still questioned as to having a place in the mix. Every successful wine region goes through this process. My sense is that the challenging climate in PEC—it’s bitterly cold in winter—forced them to make wiser choices, and make them much sooner. Because of it, they started well and they’ve come a long way.

This brings me to the purpose of this feature, to challenge you to taste wines from Prince Edward County making up your own mind. Winecurrent recently attended a tasting with four PEC wineries present. One wine from each is reviewed below. As well, if you live near the county—it’s a two or so hour drive from Toronto or Ottawa, and four from Montreal—there’s a fabulous wine tasting and wine, food and fun day on Saturday, September 26th 2009. There are 50 plus booths with18 wineries pouring over 50 wines. Information you’ll need to attend follows the reviews.


Black Prince Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet France 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $15.95 (68874) 12.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet gem glides across the palate with deft balance and a lingering finish. Subtle aromas of red berry fruit and ripe cherry segue a lovely stream of fruit flavour—ripe cranberry, spiced black plum compote and delectable cherry clafoutie. It’s delicate bodied and nicely textured, making it delightful sipping and easily paired with smoked duck breasts. Available in select LCBO stores and for by-the-case daily home or office delivery direct from Black Prince. (Vic Harradine)


The Grange of Prince Edward County ‘Diana Block’ Pinot Noir 2007 

VQA Prince Edward County $35.00 13% alcohol 

From 100% estate-grown fruit, spice box, cola and heavenly scented spiced black plum aromas cascade from the glass of this medium-bodied well-structured Pinot. The focused flavours are a delectable amalgam of tangy cherry, ripe mulberry and black raspberry. It’s impeccably balanced with ripe tannin and a lingering fruity finish that layers on a hint of chocolate. To fully appreciate this wine, aerate/decant two hours before serving. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from The Grange. (Vic Harradine)


Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 12.5% alcohol
A recent recipient of two Gold medals, it opens with beguiling aromas of honeyed pear, spice box and tropical fruit. It’s mid weight and generously textured dishing out a persistent stream of candied lemon, succulent white peach and racy crisp citrus flavour. The lingering well-balanced finish echoes those flavours layering on juicy yellow plum. This is paired perfectly with pan-seared tilapia. For by-the-case daily home or office delivery order direct from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run Vineyard ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.8% alcohol 

This opens with soft beguiling aromas of vanilla, mineral and toasty oak—barrel fermented and aged sur lie, 10 months in French oak. The palate’s treated to a silky smooth wash of succulent fruit flavours with sweet ripe pear, yellow peach and spiced Granny Smith apple to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied and beautifully balanced finishing with notes of oak and mouth-watering tangy fruit flavours. Excellent now, it’ll be even better 2011 to 2014. Pair with stuffed roast turkey and all the fixings. Order mixed wines in a 3, 6, 9 or 12 bottle case direct from Rosehall Run. (Vic Harradine)

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TASTE! Is a celebration of regional cuisine showcasing the cornucopia of luxurious food, beverage and culinary selections available in the County.

Picton’s historic Crystal Palace is the place to be for the 8th annual TASTE! a celebration of regional cuisine, eastern Ontario’s premier epicurean experience.

When & Where: 11am to 5pm, Saturday, September 26, 2009 at the historic Crystal Palace, Picton Fairgrounds, 375 Main Street East, Picton, Ontario, Canada. Click here for driving directions.

Entrance Tickets: $25

Admission includes $5 worth of sample tickets, a souvenir wine glass, parking, seminars and live jazz. In 2009, admission is limited to 2000. Cash only at the door. To purchase advance tickets click here. Please note: TASTE! is an age of majority event, attendance is limited to 19 years or older. No infants or pets permitted.

Sample Tickets: $1 each

Food and drink samples are available for purchase with sample tickets, which cost $1 each. Samples range in price from 1 to 4 sample tickets. Read more [PDF].

Child Care Available: 12 years of age and under. Pre-registration is required. Register here.

Accommodations click here and Transportation Services click here.