by Vic Harradine

Winecurrent tackled the often-asked question, “How long will ice wine age?” We were aided immensely by Mountain Road Winery owner, Steve Koscis, who supplied six vintages of his 375 mL VQA Niagara Peninsula Vidal ice wine, spanning 1999 to 2004. Much appreciated, Steve!

As the purpose was to determine what effect age had on these wines, they were not tasted blind. The tasters did not discuss the wines tasted until after their reviews, ratings and comments were gathered. The comments are a general consensus unless in quotes. The winecurrent.com tasting panel included the writer plus four accredited sommeliers. Many thanks to them for their spirited participation:

Lori Davis – LCBO Product Consultant – 543 West Hunt Club Road
Pierre Fournier – Director, National Capital Sommelier Guild
Christina Stobert – General Manager, Sommelier - Restaurant ei8hteen
Cathie Tapp – Manager, Sommelier - Restaurant International

2004 – This, along with ’02 and ’01, were tied in the ratings. The comments indicated that after tasting the aged wines (we tasted from oldest to youngest) the panel thought the younger wines powerful and full of flavour while the older wines were deemed to have elegance and character. “Huge attack, full of spice.” “Honeyed notes and almond paste flavours.” “Great acidity, fresh, clean apple flavour.”  “Love to taste this ten years from now.”

2003 – Just missing top billing by ½ point, it rated second highest and was the favourite wine of more than one taster. Many thought it the most flavourful and forward wine of the tasting. Comments of full of flavour and big wine were common. “A lovely wine to be sipped on its own.” “Decadence in a glass.” “Shows young Vidal ice wine typicity.” “Huge fruit explosion.” “Tropical fruit, especially honeyed pineapple, galore.”

2002 – This, along with ’04 and ’01, were tied in the ratings. This was deemed the lightest and least aromatic and least fruit-forward of the tasting, all alluding to vintage variation. It also earned the most consistent tasting notes with tasters in agreement. “Apple and pear flavours.” “A softer vintage.” “Peel marmalade in a glass.” “Still young, lots of acidity.” “Great balance with tropical fruit flavours and vibrant acidity.” “Almost light in the mouth.”   

2001 – This, along with ’04 and ’02, were tied in the ratings. The tasters found this wine clean and racy with good primary flavours of apple and assorted tree fruit and extremely well balanced. It was the only wine that was not picked as any taster’s top favourite, but still scored well. “Lively acidity, great balance and ready to drink.” “Refreshing attack—like a sour apple candy.” “Nice balance, lots of acidity.” “Fresh apple, peach and plum flavours.” “Not as full bodied as expected, but delicious.”   

2000 – This earned the third highest rating, just one point off the top wine, and solicited the most comments due to its a-typical aromas and flavours and very dark, almost brown colour. It appeared oxidized, but wasn’t. It displayed excellent balance and loads of acidity and flavour.  “Different than any ice wine I’ve ever tasted.” “Enjoy now, smooth and full of character.” “Very ripe and elegant fruit flavours, mango and pineapple.” “Gorgeous rich tropical fruit flavours.” “Aromas of mushrooms and a slight initial taste of blue cheese.”

1999 – The highest-rated wine. Most tasters were surprised at the lively acidity and bright fruit flavours. No one thought they would have picked this as an nine-year-old ice wine in a blind tasting. It was rated very highly by all but one taster who thought the fruit was ‘over-ripe’. “It has lots of life left.” “Still showing well.” “Incredible balance.” “Silky smooth.” “Shows strength and character, a great combination.” “Lovely mango flavour, also treacle.” “Well developed and classy.”

General comments:  In terms of ageability of ice wine, even these seasoned tasters were surprised at how well they aged. They also commented that they either liked, or even preferred, the older wines that had developed characteristics due to bottle ageing. One taster summed it up perfectly—“The 1999 proves the point; they age well.”  The tasting also highlighted specific vintage variation and this was commented upon by more than one taster.

And here’s the really great news! All these wines are still available from the winery. You can order them for daily home or office delivery in mixed cases of six or twelve—conduct your own vertical tasting with friends or gift them—from the Mountain Road Winery website or by phone at 905-563-0745.  The price per bottle offers extremely good value with the highest price less than $40.00 per 375mL bottle and the 2000 only $24.95. There are also 200 mL bottles available in all but the ’99 vintage.

If attending the Ottawa Wine and Food Show, November 7, 8 and 9, you can meet Steve at the Mountain Road Winery Booth and place your order there.