Winecurrent visited a number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting though barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this first installment.
Cave Spring Cellars
Location, location, location. Sitting high in the catbird seat on the prime slope of the VQA appellation 'Beamsville Bench', they're perched there by design. It was carefully selected by co-owner Len Pennachetti after studying the geography of the Niagara Region in high school. The Cave Spring Estate was first planted with vitis vinifera varieties in 1978, making them some of the oldest in Niagara. Len and present wine maker, Angelo Pavan, began the winery in 1986. The location was chosen for the dolomite limestone soils of this narrow ledge and the superior climatic conditions afforded it. Planted on the Niagara Escarpment's sloping hillside, it provides natural drainage and optimum air circulation; a cooling effect in the often hot and humid summer from the relatively cool breezes of Lake Ontario. This effect is reversed in winter, preventing severe vine and frost damage, from the now relatively warm breezes from the Lake—so deep it never completely freezes. Not all was left to nature—the vines were planted at twice the normal density forcing roots deep into the nutrient-rich soil as a survival mechanism. The result is an enhancement of flavours in the grapes and resultant wine.
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.05 (246579)
This opens with a burst of perfumed aromatics with musk, exotic mixed spiced box and hints of orange up front. This is medium weight and fully textured, almost creamy, with robust flavours of yellow peach, ginger and zesty citrus. There's a gentle wisp of sweetness from the ripe fruit that's balanced perfectly with the moderating citrus acidity. The finish is clean and refreshing portending a lovely food pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. Purchase via Winery to Home. (VH)
Cave Spring Cellars 'Dolomite' Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.05
This is sourced from various prime sites within the appellation that provide the desired lime-rich soil structure. There are key lime and steely minerality aromas galore off the nose providing segue to racy and heady flavours of white grapefruit and lemon zest that are deftly married to a gentle touch of moderating sweetness. This is, surprisingly, given its zesty nature, very fleshy on the palate. The mouth-watering and lingering finish suggests a pairing with Alsatian onion tart. Purchase via Winery to Home. (VH)
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.00 (286377)
The '07 vintage has produced exciting wines and here's one of them. It has it all, aromas of mineral, citrus and spice that introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrussy zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)
Marynissen Estate Winery
Marynissen Estate Winery was established in 1990. The Marynissen family has been growing grapes in the Niagara Region since 1953 and started to grow vinifera varietals in the mid-to-late 70’s. Newly-minted winemaker, Jeff Hundertmark, is now guardian of ‘Lot 31’, the vineyard planted with the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Canada; John Marynissen planted them in 1978. Throughout the 90’s Marynissen was synonymous with award-winning red wines and among those varietals most successful were the old world-style Cabernet blends. Jeff’s first solo crack at them was the 2007 vintage and the wine’s resting comfortably in barrel. My barrel-tasting notes indicate both Jeff and his wines are going to attract a lot of favourable attention. Jeff’s ’07 whites are bottled and on the tasting bar, exciting and very impressive—same for the 2006 reds in which he had a minor hand. Order the following wines for daily home or office delivery directly from the winery: 1-905-468-7270 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH) 
Marynissen Estate Winery Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.80
This was barrel fermented and aged 7 months in American oak. It opens with glorious aromas of pit fruit, citrus, and dessicated coconut. This age-worthy and mouth-watering Chard delivers a fully textured mouthful of ripe citrus, piquant spice and Granny Smith apple flavours. It finishes dry and crisp, but not before layering on succulent yellow peach and pear flavours. Pair this with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)
Marynissen Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.80
Hand-picked estate-grown fruit was used to produce this aromatic and deftly balanced white. Lifted rosewater and exotic spice aromas abound while the expressive flavours include warm and ginger-infused yellow plum and orange peel citrus. It’s medium in texture and weight and sports a nicely balanced lingering finish. Perfect as an aperitif or welcoming wine, spicy butter chicken also pairs perfectly. (VH)
Marynissen Estate Winery Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.80
This ‘off-dry’ gem delivers near-perfect balance between succulent fruit flavours—a hallmark of this vintage—and wonderful crisp cleansing acidity. Racy and zesty aromas of mineral and citrus segue a cornucopia of flavours including tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—along with white grapefruit, ripe yellow peach and green apple. The sweet and tang finish delivers that wonderful yin and yang experience that pairs so well to tandoori or Szechuan chicken. Only 250 cases made. (VH)
Pillitteri Estates Winery
There’s an electrified bolt of energy surging through this well-established Niagara-on-the-Lake winery. It’s an exciting mix of innovative techniques and traditional family values. Dr. Marc Bradshaw, their new Aussie winemaker, is generating a lot of that spark. All this excitement is reflected in the wines; they’re the world’s largest estate producer of ice wine. They’ve produced a gem from Sangiovese, while their dry Pinot Grigio is top notch—both from traditional Italian varieties. That’s where the Pillitteri family comes in, they’ve been producing premium wine for over fifty-five years and have won over 450 medals. They’re also the first Ontario winery to achieve Advantage HACCP Plus certification, a rigorous system of quality control for food safety, assuring all consumers of one of the best food-safety systems in the world. Pillitteri Estates Winery 'Fusion' Gewürztraminer Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (349126)
Aromas of lychee fruit, ginger-infused citrus and mixed spices roll off the highly perfumed nose of this easy-to-drink quaffer. You'll experience an amazing rush of ripe sweet tropical fruit flavours—pineapple and guava—melding with bracing citrus acidity and spice. An excellent wine to be served as an aperitif with spicy canapes, it also has the oomph to pair perfectly with dishes like Pad Thai and Birhyani chicken. You should find this in your local LCBO retail store, if not, ask them to stock it, it's a popular item. (VH)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00
Floral, mineral and spice on the nose, this delivers a medium weight fleshy textured mouthful of lip-smacking wine. You'll revel in the expressive flavours—lemon-lime, spicy white grapefruit and minerality—as they wash over the palate in successive waves. The finish is dry clean and mouth-watering. Pair this alongside chicken or seafood appetizers or seafood mains—mussels, scallops or prawns. Purchase via Pillitteri Estates Winery. (VH)
Pillitteri Estates Winery 'Ice Wine' Vidal 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $40.00 375 mL
Wine maker, Marc Bradshaw, uses specialized yeast clones to flesh out every gram of texture and flavour and the result is spectacular. The lifted nose bursts forth with aromas of peel marmalade, caramel and candied fruit. The flavours include a delightful melange of sweet ripe and juicy tree fruit—pear, lemon and mango—underpinned by laser-like acidity that keeps it from becoming cloying. It's fully textured and sports a lengthy and, suprisingly, very well balanced finish. Sip on its own as dessert or pair with crème caramel, blue cheese or for a hedonistic experience, pan-seared foie gras. Purchase via Pillitteri Estates Winery. (VH)
Southbrook Vineyards
Southbrook has gone to the wall, literally, to produce distinctive wines in this spanking-new winery; visit the winery or their website to clarify 'the wall'. It's a Jack Diamond-designed pavillon, gaining the highest certification under the exacting LEED standards, their vineyards are OC/PRO Canada certified organic, and they've coaxed back highly respected wine maker, Ann Sperling. LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) provides a system of points and standards for environmentally sustainable construction. With their recently organic fruit certification, sheep grazing between the vines and a rigorous regimen for handling every aspect of the vines, you don't have to gaze too far in the future to envision a Demeter bio-dynamic certification. Order the following wines, in mixed case lots, for daily home or office delivery directly from Southbrook Vineyards or 1.888.581.1581. Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95
Toast, oak and vanilla aromas roll off the glass of this highly expressive generously textured Chardonnay. It was barrel fermented and aged in French oak before being bottled under Stelvin closure a.k.a. screwcap. Look for flavours of green apple and yellow peach with nuances of what will develop over the next few years—honeyed pear and caramel apple flavours. Beautifully structured, it delivers a lingering and impeccably balanced finish.This would be a lovely accompaniment with Thanksgiving turkey, sage dressing and roasted root veggies. (VH)
Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
Vinified from two separate lots in cooler parts of the region, this reflects the warm vintage through highly aromatic fruit flavours, and the judicious selection and handling of fruit as it delivers pristine acidity and deft balance. Grassy, herbaceous and mineral aromas segue a rich and heady gusher of green apple, white grapefruit and spice-infused ripe lemon flavours It's medium in weight and texture delivering a crisp and refreshing lengthy finish. Pair with lime-marinated prawns grilled on your BBQ then drizzled with butter. (VH)
Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Syrah 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95
There's a touch of Cabernet Franc (7%) in this nicely structured red. The alluring nose delivers aromas of dried berry fruit, black pepper and mulberry. On the palate there's a mélange of flavours including blueberry, tangy red cherry and red currant. This is medium in weight, texture and finish; everything's in synch. A challenging varietal in Niagara, made even more challenging in this mediocre vintage, produced this very fine wine—hats off to Southbrook. Pair this with herb-rubbed and grilled rack of lamb. (VH)