by Vic Harradine

One man, owner Robert O’Callaghan, stands above all whether you merely scratch the surface or you dig deep at Rockford to explain their incredible wines and overall popularity and success. Gazing firmly in the rear-view mirror with a laser-like focus on the past, he’s an anomaly in a world driven by change. He makes wine at every price point that attracts wine-lovers, wine judges, wine critics and writers as much today, as ever. Rockford has two wines listed in the über-premium ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’. Robert loves old vines, old boats, old equipment, old traditions and old techniques. He not only talks the talk, he walks the walk. The only obvious changes at Rockford from how wine has been traditionally made in the new world, are: mechanical cooling systems and cultured yeast; all else seems from the past.

Winecurrent was there at the beginning of the 2020 harvest, and observed hand-harvested fruit brought to the winery in small containers on the back of an old farm truck (see photo below). It was passed by hand and pitch fork through a small window to a chute leading to a late 1800s Bagshaw de-stemmer / crusher that was being run by an 8 hp gasoline engine built in 1910. The engine was just recently converted from a two-man, handle-crank start to electric, due to safety concerns. An electric starter was sourced, and later adapted, from an antique car. Grapes were then gently transported to open-top, bees-wax lined, concrete fermenters with some making their way to full-slab slate fermenters rescued from a local winery moving on to more contemporary material. There were small, gentle, wooden, basket presses awaiting completion of fermentation. 

For a brief look at just a few of the processes withstanding the test of time and championed at Rockford Cellars, watch this just-under 5-minute video. If you’re a wine lover, you’ll be fascinated by many of the things you see and hear.

Rockford wines are highly sought after and a challenge to source. To enquire, contact their Ontario wine agent, Breakthrough Beverage Group, for assistance/information on how you can purchase and have delivered to your home: Phone 647-790-0550 option 2, Fax 647-776-7800 or by Email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. . When you visit Australia, once the planet has corralled this virus, book an appointment to visit the winery tasting room, just north of Adelaide.

• Fruit for the following Rockford 2018 Eden Valley Riesling was hand harvested from premium, hand-pruned, old vines growing in cool-climate Eden Valley—it’s released at least 12 months later than most Eden Valley Riesling, gaining weight and complexity in the process.

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Rockford Eden Valley Riesling 2018

Eden Valley, South Australia $45.00 12.1% alcohol

Mineral notes, citrus and hints of green apple abound on the nose of this gorgeous riesling. It surges over the palate with a delightful wash of Key lime cordial interwoven with racy lemon curd, a hint of white peach and a wash of lip-smacking tang and notions of flinty mineral notes. This is medium weight with good mouthfeel and persistent purity of fruit and flavour through the lengthy mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with charcuterie, a deli platter or bocconcini and tomato slices under a dousing of olive oil and dots of balsamic vinegar topped with fresh basil. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Semillon pays homage to two long-time growers from whom the fruit for the following was sourced—the Sibley and Kalleske families. It’s also slotted in for a Spring, 2020 release through their Ontario agent Breakthrough Beverage Group. See contact information and how to order through them above.

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Rockford ‘Local Growers’ Semillon 2018

Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 11.2% alcohol

Fruit for this value-packed gem was picked at the peak of ripeness with three triages made through the vines. Aromas of honeysuckle, yellow peach, ripe apricot and floral notes abound. It’s fully flavoured and simply delicious. It delights the palate and persists through the finish and aftertaste. This is balanced on a pin, medium-plus weight with good mouthfeel enhanced by a bit of oak ageing that also contributes to the weight and texture. Pour now with a pork roast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The must—grape skins and seed—from an Alicante Bouchet saignée, Rosé-styled wine, was utilized in the following wine, hence the ‘Frugal Farmer’ moniker. Keeping with the theme, it was sealed under screw cap—less expensive than cork—an anomaly for Rockford table wine.

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Rockford ‘Frugal Farmer’ Grenache/Mataro/Alicante Bouchet 2019

Eden Valley, South Australia $22.50 12.6% alcohol

Floral notes and red and black berry fruit aromas precede a lively and fresh stream of palate flavours with of red currant and passion fruit intertwined with ripe black cherry and ripe black plum and sprigs of savory herbs. There’s good mouthfeel and plenty of tang from twist top to last drop in this red blend—it’s medium bodied and finishes quite lengthy. It’s good to go now and pours well with red pizza or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

• The following blend of grenache, mataro - aka mourvèdre - and syrah was sourced from select vineyards in the some of the driest areas in the Barossa—Moppa Springs, Ebenezer and Kalimna. It was fermented in open-top slate tanks with juice pumped over skins several times a day to obtain full flavour, colour and tannin before basket pressed then individual components matured in seasoned oak casks for over 12 months.

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Rockford ‘Moppa Springs’ Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz 2016

Barossa Valley, South Australia $55.00 13.9% alcohol

This 55% grenache/30% mataro/15% shiraz red blend opens with aromas of violets, savoury herbs and dark berry fruit aromas. A gusher of rich and unctuous flavour blankets the palate with cassis and mulberry decorated with piquant spice and sprigs of savoury herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouthfeel and a truckload of charm. The lingering finish adds a healthy dollop of tang and a ripe, soft underpinning of tannin. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ is 53% shiraz and 47% cabernet sauvignon and is named for the hard-working, independent growers who spend the cool winters hand-pruning myriad vines in the traditional ‘rod and spur’ method.

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Rockford ‘Rod and Spur’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Barossa Valley, South Australia $75.00 13.8% alcohol

Perfumed aromas of floral notes, mixed spice, earthy notes and savory herbs are the clarion call for palate flavours of peppery spice, red currant and minty notes decorated with pie cherry and black plum that infuse the finish and aftertaste. This is medium weight with deft balance, complexity and mouth-watering tang on the lengthy finish. It gained texture and cohesiveness spending 24 months in large, well-seasoned oak barrels. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb, and with careful cellaring on to 2038. (Vic Harradine)

• You’ll find the following Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz listed in the top tier of the über-premium ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’ placing it with 21 other wines—including Penfold’s ‘Grange’, Henschke’s ‘Hill of Grace’ and Jim Barry’s ‘The Armagh’—as the most highly sought-after Australian wines on the open market. It spent 24 months maturing in wood and additional 18 months in bottle before release. This evocative shiraz showcases owner Robert O’Callaghan’s dedication and single-minded focus on delivering the best wine, from the best fruit using traditional thinking and methods. It’s literally hand made in the fashion of the Australian pioneers who formed strong bonds with neighbours, the land, the vines and the fruit of the vine, many generations ago.

• The following 2014 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz is slated for a September 3, 2020 release through the LCBO Classics Catalogue. If this comes to pass, I venture there won’t be many bottles on offer and they will go quite quickly. This wine has a cult-like following in Australia and abroad. If you cast bait in these high-end waters, you will want to reel in one or more of these.

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Rockford ‘Basket Press’ Shiraz 2014

Barossa, South Australia $115.00 (736488) 13.9% alcohol

Fruit was hand harvested from a host of select vineyards with dry-grown, old vines—up to 140 years old—in numerous sub-regions of the Barossa. Aromas of black currant and violets, with wisps of earthy and gamey notes, precede an elegant river of persistent purity of fruit with delectable dark bramble berry, black juicy cherry and racy red currant to the fore. This is an excellent vintage showcasing deft balance of laser-like tangy acidity, powerful ripe fruit flavours and a firm, ripe tannin structure. Pop corks 2024 to 2034. (Vic Harradine)

• And now for something completely different; the following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine pays homage to an iconic style of Australian wine that was produced generations ago and nearly lost to the voracious appetite of consumers and winemakers looking for something new. When syrah vines were brought to Australia, they were referred to as Black Shiraz. A popular way to make wine for a number of keen winemakers was to make a sparkling wine—Méthode Traditionnelle—out of this new variety. Rockford and a handful of other South Australia wineries, including Seppelt and Majella have either continued to make or brought back this style of wine by reaching into the past rather than looking to the future. The wines produced by the above three, and there are surely others, are not anything like the sweet, cloying kind to which most consumers in Canada and U.S. have access. The base of the following wine comes from shiraz made by Rockford owner, Robert O’Callaghan, in the 1970s.

• The following Non-Vintage Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling wine was disgorged in 2019. It’s suggested by Rockford, and some Australian wine critics, these should be consumed within five years after disgorgement, although some last much longer. This wine is listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the ‘Langton’s Classification of Australia’s Fine Wines’.

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Rockford ‘Black Shiraz’ Sparkling Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $125.00 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and violets make way for a delightful mouthful of fine-bead bubbles tantalizing the palate decorated with flavours of dark berry fruit—plum, black currant and black juicy cherry—adorned with wisps of black licorice. This tastes very much like a highly rated, still, table-wine shiraz only chilled and with bubbles. It’s surprisingly soft and creamy-smooth on the palate and finishes lengthy and dry with excellent balance and flavourful fruit throughout. A treat to serve as a welcoming wine to guests or alongside a wide variety of appetizers. However, best of luck in finding access to it. (Vic Harradine)

• The Paddle Steamer ‘Marion’, is pictured on the label of the following Tawny-styled, fortified wine and part of the proceeds from sales go to preserving this 1897 steam-driven, Murray River icon. Rockford have a number of old barrels of wine that go into the making of this wine and they encourage visitors to look up at the ceiling rafters of the tasting room to catch a glimpse of some that are still maturing for future releases.

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Rockford ‘PS Marion - Old Barossa - V.S. Tawny’ Non-Vintage
Barossa, South Australia $75.00 19.0% alcohol
Aromas of roasted nuts, caramel and dried fruit introduce this fortified, viscous gem. It dazzles the palate with rich ripe flavours of a blend of barrel-aged five- to eighty-year-old wine without being cloying. The palate’s treated to a smorgasbord of flavours—more semi-sweet than sweet—with dates and figs rubbing shoulders with sharp spice, high spirits and hints of currants. It’s medium-full bodied and well balanced throughout. Sip on its own or pair with smoked cheddar or Manchego cheese. (Vic Harradine)