by Lisa Isabelle: wine writer (www.winecurrent.com), wine educator (Algonquin College), wine critic (www.winecurrent.com) with reviews re-published in LCBO Vintages Release catalogues, and on agents and winery web sites around the world.
Ottawa had the pleasure of hosting the Canadian Culinary Championships January 31-February 1, 2020. I was pleased to be invited, along with Louise Boutin (her comments and reviews follow), to attend events as a member of the media. Over the course of the weekend, 12 top chefs from across the country competed in a variety of events showcasing excellence in Canadian food and wine.
On Thursday, January 30, 2020, the 12 chefs were introduced at the Winner’s Circle Event at Ottawa City Hall where they all received the same, unlabelled bottle of ‘mystery’ wine. Their challenge: with a budget of $500, create a tasting plate for about 350 people to pair with the wine at the Mystery Wine Event the following evening at the Canadian Aviation and Space Museum. Algonquin College provided the kitchen facilities and culinary students to assist the chefs with this challenge.
There was great energy at the Canadian Aviation and Space Museum at the Mystery Wine Event and it was exciting watching the chefs prepare plates for those in attendance. Things really heated up when each chef was put under pressure and given 10 minutes to prepare 15 plates for the judges sequestered in an undisclosed location at the museum. Judges and guests were not disappointed as the tasting plates paired wonderfully with the mystery wine.
Guests were invited to vote for the best wine and food pairing of the evening and take a guess at the mystery wine. The mystery wine, revealed as Closson Chase Pinot Noir 2017, was a pleasure to enjoy throughout the evening. Layered and complex, it represented Prince Edward County with subtle notes of cherry, mushroom, spice, earth, a defined mineral note and bracing acidity; a perfect food wine. The People’s Choice winner this evening was J.P. Dublado from River Cree Casino and Resort in Edmonton.
The following morning, chefs were up early for the Black Box competition at Algonquin College. Each chef devised a unique plate (15 similar plates) for the judges with the distinctly Canadian ingredients provided in the box. Watch a video of chefs in the kitchen under the stress of wanting to do well in the limited time allowed –you can feel the pressure just watching and listening to this video.
At the sold-out Grand Finale at the Shaw Centre on Saturday evening, the chefs recreated their winning plates and chosen wine pairings which secured their places in this year’s championships. This year’s gold medalist is Roger Ma of Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar in Vancouver with his BC Coastal Terroir dish. (see photos of the medal-winning dishes below)
The Canadian Culinary Championships-The Great Canadian Kitchen Party celebrates Canadian music, sport and food and provides opportunities for Canadian youth by supporting the following organizations: B2ten, MusiCounts and Food Centres Canada. Join us next year in Ottawa for this wonderful event!
Winecurrent subscribers were offered one free ticket after they purchased one for themselves, a saving of $195.00! Keep an eye on winecurrent newsletters to alert you to the date, time and details for the next event.
Here are reviews from what I tasted at the show. Louise Boutin’s reviews from wines that she tasted follow.
Editor’s note: Lisa is not one to draw attention to herself, so I’m stepping up and in. After tasting the ‘Mystery’ unlabelled wine she correctly identified the winery and the wine, not many tasters did… Bravo, Lisa!
Lisa’s wine notes from the Media Preview Tasting at the Shaw Centre: Jan. 31, 2020
• Purchase the following four wines online from Domaine Quelus for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 3651 Sixteen Rd, Saint Anns, ON L0R 1Y0, Phone first +1 905-562-7474 … here’s a map.
91
Domaine Queylus ‘Tradition’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27.95 13.0% alcohol
This wine is fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in French oak barrels, 20% new, for about 18 months before bottling. Pronounced aromas of tangerine, poached pear and peach garnished with baking spice, vanilla and a mineral note leap from the glass. Dry, medium bodied with bright acidity, flavours of tangy citrus and Gala apple coat the nicely-textured palate, joined by a hint of spice and a chalky mineral note on the extended finish. Pair with poached salmon with a lemon-butter sauce. (Lisa Isabelle)
93
Domaine Queylus ‘Limited Edition’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $75.00 13.5% alcohol
Two carefully selected barrels were blended to produce this special offering. The wine was fermented with indigenous yeast and aged approximately 18 months in French oak, 20% new, prior to bottling. The subtle nose slowly reveals an array of enticing aromas: red apple, grapefruit rind, Asian pear with hints of baking spice and marzipan. Flavours of apple and pear envelope the palate while a mineral note and a hint of wildflower honey permeate the medium-long finish. Enjoy this dry, medium-light bodied, well-crafted chardonnay with pistachio-crusted halibut. (Lisa Isabelle)
91
Domaine Queylus Cabernet Franc ‘Reserve’ 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $37.95 13.0% alcohol
Predominantly cabernet franc with a touch of merlot, dark plum and blackberry aromas unite with nuances of tobacco leaf, rosemary, spice and smoke on the nose of this dry, medium-full bodied red. Plums, redcurrant, dried herbs and spice flavours bathe the palate and extend into the medium-long finish. Well balanced with refreshing acidity and pleasantly grippy tannins, enjoy with grilled leg of lamb. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Domaine Queylus Merlot ‘La Grande Reserve’ 2017
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $49.95 13.5% alcohol
Red and dark plums, cherry and blueberry aromas garnished with notions of sweet pipe tobacco, chocolate and rose petal notes open this dry, medium-full bodied blend of 86% merlot and 14% cabernet franc. Dry, medium-full bodied with silky tannins, the palate boasts juicy, ripe plums and cherries, savoury herbs, earth and spice notes. Enjoy this well-structured red with grilled venison filet. (Lisa Isabelle)
• Purchase the following two wines online from Two Sisters Vineyards for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 240 John Street East, Niagara-on-the-Lake ... here’s a map.
91
Two Sisters Vineyards ‘Unoaked Chardonnay’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.80 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of lemon curd, peach, orchard blossom and red apple skin are showcased on the nose of this pleasing chardonnay, fermented and aged in stainless steel. Dry, medium-light bodied with a slightly creamy texture, orchard fruit and citrus flavours prevail on the palate while a touch of honeysuckle appears on the lengthy finish. Pour this well-crafted white alongside pan-seared scallops with a spritz of lemon. (Lisa Isabelle)
92
Two Sisters Vineyards ‘Eleventh Post’ 2016
VQA Niagara River $42.80 14.0% alcohol
This blend of 72% merlot, 16% cabernet sauvignon and 12% cabernet franc estate-grown grapes spent 3.5 years in predominantly French oak barrels, 15% new, and opens with an intense nose of dark cherry-berry aromas with notions of chocolate, leather, mint and thyme. Dry, medium bodied with apparent tannins, pure dark fruit flavours of blackberry, cherry and plum shine on the mouth-watering palate adorned with savoury herbs, earth and mineral notes. Pair with beef pot pie. (Lisa Isabelle)
• Purchase the following two wines online from Potters Settlement for delivery to your home, office or restaurant or pick up from the winery at 1445 Potter Settlement Rd, Tweed, ON. , Phone first: +1 613 478 1478 ... here’s a map.
90
Potter Settlement Marquette 2017
Product of Canada $50.00 12.0% alcohol
Produced with the winter-hardy, disease- and pest-resistant marquette grape, this wine was fashioned with a Tasmanian yeast stain and 10% of the wine was aged in American oak, the remainder in stainless steel. The nose offers dark cherry, blackberry jam and raspberry aromas adorned with dark chocolate, tea leaves, piquant spice and earth. Dry, medium bodied and silky smooth, enlivened with balancing acidity, there’s an abundance of red and dark fruit flavours on the palate joined by hints of earth and spice which extend through the leisurely finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
90
Potter Settlement Cabernet Franc 2018
Product of Canada $40.00 12.1% alcohol
Made with a particular yeast stain sourced from Bordeaux, the nose gently unfolds with aromas of black raspberry, plum and red currant garnished with accents of sweet pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and bay leaf and a mineral underpinning. The palate features juicy red fruit, with hints of herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied and nicely structured, the refreshing red fruit flavours and a mineral note last into the medium-long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)
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by Louise Boutin: wine writer (www.winecurrent.com), wine mentor (La Cité collégiale), wine critic (www.winecurrent.com) with reviews re-published in LCBO Vintages Release catalogues, and on wine agents and winery web sites around the world.
At the sold-out Grand Finale at the Shaw Centre on Saturday evening, a crowd of 650 people gathered and went by the chefs’ stations to sample their spectacular and unique creations. The artistic sense and originality displayed in each of the dishes, in addition to the succulent combination of flavours, was breathtaking. Some of them using up to 50 ingredients in one single dish.
Guests were also invited to sample wines from over 12 Ontario wineries to enjoy with the delectable food. In addition to the 12 chefs competing, last year’s winner, Chef Yannick LaSalle from restaurant Les Fougères in Chelsea, Qc was featured as VIP chef and offered one of his delicious creations to the guests. After almost two hours of pure indulgence, the evening moved to the banquet hall where guests were invited to enjoy a gorgeous cheese selection and a ‘By Noir 55’—the Shaw Centre’s very own brand—chocolate dessert in a sit-down format presentation.
The rest of the evening was hosted by, Heather Moyse, two-time Canadian Olympic gold medallist athlete in two-women bobsled in 2010 (Vancouver) and 2014 (Sochi). She is called Canada’s best female athlete as has also represented Canada in international competition in rugby union and track cyclist. People sang and danced to the music of Geoff Hicks, Scott Smith, Bill Henderson (Chilliwack band vocalist), Rob Becker & Barney Bentall. A live auction also added to the evening excitement. The celebration concluded with the crowning of the CCC2020 edition winner.
The Black Box event was incredible and this video will give you an idea of the pressure these chefs were under.
This year’s gold medalist is Roger Ma of Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar in Vancouver with his BC Coastal Terroir dish. Second and third place went respectively to Chef Marc-André Jetté of Montreal’s Hoogan and Beaufort Restaurant and Chef Emily Butcher of Winnipeg’s Deer + Almond Restaurant. (see photos of medal-winning dishes far below) The competition also selected a wine of the year and the Charles Baker ‘Picone’ 2016 Riesling earned the title.
Winecurrent subscribers were offered one free ticket after they purchased one for themselves, a saving of $195.00! Keep an eye on winecurrent newsletters to alert you to the date, time and details for the next event.
In summary, a fantastic soirée to celebrate the best of Canadian food and wine. The CCC should stay in Ottawa for a few more years. I can’t wait to attend next year’s edition! Hope to see you and your wine-friends there.
Louise’s wine notes from wines tasted at the 2020 Canadian Culinary Championship
• Order the following Huff Estates wine by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Huff Estates or pick up from the winery in Bloomfield, Prince Edward County.
91
Huff Estates ‘South Bay’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $40.00 12.0% alcohol
This is a gorgeous medium-light bodied pinot presenting with fragrant red cherry compote aromas mingling with baking spice and dry laurel. Twelve months of French oak maturation with only 10% new, was just enough to bring all elements together. The result is harmonious with red fruit tartness and savoury flavours framed in polished tannin pleasing the palate all the way to the dry medium-long finish. Pour alongside seared red tuna. (Louise Boutin)
Order the following Le Clos Jordanne wine online from the winery or pick up a case from the winery at 2738 King Street, Jordan Station, at the T-junction of Jordan Road and Highway 81.
• The following 2017 Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay is about as close as it gets to Burgundy-style premium chardonnay that’s not from Burgundy. It was accomplished when outstanding fruit quality, unique terroir and highly skilled winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, coalesced like angels dancing on the head of a pin.
95 
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Le Grand Clos’ Chardonnay 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (184549) 13.0% alcohol
The rich aromas of ripe peach, apricot, light butterscotch, vanilla and a freshly cut fennel note announce a treat for the palate. No deception here, with a creamy-textured flow of exquisite flavours— ripe orchard fruit, lemon curd and crème brûlée—traveling the palate without heaviness and developing a comforting warmth on the back palate before offering marzipan, vanilla and savoury notes in the long delectable finish. This is a delight to sip on its own now and will only improve over the next ten years. Coquille St-Jacques or baked Brie are inspired pairings. (Louise Boutin)
• Order the following Karlo Estates wine directly online for home, restaurant or office delivery.
90
Karlo Estates ‘Three Witches’ 2018
VQA Ontario $20.00 12.5% alcohol
This blend of 50% sauvignon blanc and 25% of each sémillon and gewürztraminer, showcases lovely floral aromas—sweet pear, tropical fruit and honeydew melon. It coats the palate with delicious creamy ripe pineapple and peach flavours before switching gears with tangy passionfruit and crisp green apple along with a chalky minerality extending in the pleasant, dry and balanced finish. This is medium bodied and totally enjoyable on its own or with a variety of dishes such as butternut squash ravioli or ham, asparagus and cheese crepes. (Louise Boutin)
• Order directly online from KIN Vineyards and have wines delivered to your home, office or restaurant door.
92
KIN ‘Carp Ridge’ Chardonnay 2018
VQA Ontario $39.95 13.0% alcohol
A blend of three different chardonnay clones grown on the Carp ridge, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged 10 months in French oak, 18% new, make-up the second vintage of this elegant white. A lactic whiff fills the air before a good swirl unveils a cocktail of beautiful peach, ripe pear, buttered popcorn and white flower aromas. This is medium-bodied and it glides on the palate carrying delicious flavours of stone fruit, lemon yogurt, roasted almond, vanilla and a nice saline note showing-up in the dry and clean finish. Perfectly balanced with an excellent dose of acidity, it will improve over the next eight to ten years. Pair with baked, lemon-butter cod loin. (Louise Boutin)
90
KIN ‘Carp Ridge’ Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Ontario $44.95 11.5% alcohol
This is KIN’s first pinot noir vintage crafted with 100% hand-harvested fruit grown on the Carp ridge, neighbour of the famous Diefenbunker museum. This is a pale-garnet shaded and medium-light bodied red with loads of red cherry and cranberry aromas plus savoury herb and hint of spice in the background. In addition to red fruit flavours, notes of rhubarb show up mid-palate along with a nice grip of tannin bringing desired structure to a mouth-watering tart and savoury balanced finish. Nine months of maturation in a combination of new and neutral French oak with a portion of the blend aged in stainless steel, added complexity and softness while preserving the fruit liveliness in the wine. It has about five years of ageing potential and it’s beautiful and versatile now paired with grilled salmon, turkey meat pie with pickled beets, or charcuterie board. (Louise Boutin)
• Order the following two wines directly online from Stratus and have them delivered to your home, office or restaurant.
90
Stratus White 2016
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $39.00 13.1% alcohol
This is a medium-full bodied blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier, sémillon and gewürztraminer getting along perfectly after a cohabitation of 627 days in French oak, 11% new. A combination of orchard and tropical fruit plus buttered-popcorn aromas draped in delicate vanilla scent charms the nose. Flavours of peach, yellow apple, pineapple and baking spice glide over the palate with harmony developing a comforting warmth and balancing citrus acidity before ending on subtle vanilla and honey notes. This is good to go now to 2030 on its own or with sea-salt dusted almonds or with butter chicken. (Louise Boutin)
91
Stratus ‘Weather Report’ Cabernet Franc 2016
VQA Niagara-on-the Lake $29.00 12.7% alcohol
Cabernet franc thrives in the Niagara and this one, from an excellent vintage, is a perfect example. Loads of ripe red cherry aromas, plus cassis, tobacco leaf, green bell pepper and a whiff of licorice float in the air. Palate and nose are aligned here in a medium-bodied red, aged almost 18 months in French oak, 19% new, offering an excellent dose of red fruit acidity and chalky tannin. The finish is deliciously savoury with a mineral touch making it an ideal partner to pork osso buco or stuffed bell pepper. Aerate/decant one hour before service. (Louise Boutin)
Canadian Culinary Championships Gold Medal Dish
Canadian Culinary Championships Silver Medal Dish
Canadian Culinary Championships Bronze Medal Dish