by Vic Harradine

We begin our journey through Australia’s fine wine regions along the famous Limestone Coast, a place where a profusion of fruit is sourced for some of Australia’s finest wines. Join us in visiting and tasting with a family-owned winery proud to display their origins. Jip Jip Rocks may be familiar to those who shop the LCBO as we stop in Padthaway, a geographical region of South Australia (SA), visiting the Bryson family at their family-owned vineyard where fruit is sourced for their ‘Jip Jip Rocks’, ‘Morambro Creek’ and ‘The Bryson’ wine brands. The present Bryson brothers and their family members are 5th generation South Australia agriculturists.

The Aboriginal name – ‘Jip Jip’ – refers to granite rock formations near Padthaway. The Morambro Creek running through the winery’s vineyards flows directly into the area of the Jip Jip rock formations. Jip Jip Rocks first planted vines in 1994 after being a grower of grains and pulses and breeding cattle since first purchasing this property in 1955. Like the adjacent Coonawarra geographical wine region, they have a generous slice of Terra Rossa soils with a profusion of underlying limestone. At Jip Jip Rocks they presently have 105 Ha under vine along with some magnificent Black Angus cattle that they breed.

Padthaway is one of the cooler wine regions of SA and along with a unique meso climate, access to water—one of Australia’s scarcest agricultural resources—and choice soil and sub-soil compositions, it allows the Brysons to grow über-premium fruit. Their reds, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, are highly aromatic and fruity while retaining excellent tang and acidity leading to deft balance and delivering considerable complexity. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay also over-deliver in quality as reflected in the wines reviewed below.

Viticulturist, Andrew Bryson, took us on a tour of the vineyard where grapes were beginning to reach veraison—turning colour. The fruit enjoys optimum/extended hang time due to Padthaway’s temperate climate and unique late afternoon sea breeze that cools fruit and canopy allowing them to triage the harvest by identifying particular blocks that are ripe while delaying a day, or even days, harvest of fruit requiring more ripening time—virtually all fruit achieves optimum ripeness level at harvest while still retaining acidity. He points to this along with their very minimal use of irrigation by using water from an underground, spring-fed aquifer and the magnificent limestone-laced soils as the major factors allowing delivery of premium fruit at harvest. Andrew’s formal training, experience and intimate knowledge of this land from working it since childhood certainly must weigh in on the equation as well.

• The following two Jip Jip Rocks wines were recently released and are available Now in Vintages

Jip Jip Rocks Chardonnay 2015

Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (175752) 12.5% alcohol

Proving once again that Jip Jip rocks, this fully textured, nicely balanced 2015 Chardonnay punches well above the price—we need to see more Chardonnay from Padthaway. Orchard and tropical fruit aromas make way for a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of ripe red apple, juicy pear and lemon citrus setting up a crisp refreshing aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared fish or supermarket, rotisserie roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Shiraz/Cabernet blend hails from the somewhat off-the-beaten-path region of South Australia that produces some stunning wine. Padthaway, along with its neighbour, Coonawarra, are quite small in area, but large in stature and both boast Terra Rossa soils—stunningly red in colour. Coonawarra was planted and recognized for its wines first with Padthaway gaining its Geographical Indication status in 1999. They’re both a three or four-hour drive from Adelaide and 4 ½ from Melbourne. There are three big hitters when it comes to grape varieties in Padthaway—Shiraz, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Two are found in the following from Jip Jip Rocks and it’s certainly worth a try.

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2014

Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol

This crowd-friendly red blend—60% Shiraz/40% Cabernet Sauvignon—was produced from the 5th generation Bryson family’s estate fruit spending 13 months in French and American oak before bottling. Aromas and flavours of peppery spice, dark berry fruit and excellent tang abound. A rich luscious wave of bramble berry, black Bing cherry and baking spice show great balance, depth and satin-smooth texture on the palate and lingering, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Very good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release dates: TBD

Jip Jip Rocks Chardonnay 2016

Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (175752) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and wisps of honey furl from the nose of this medium-bodied, value-packed Chardonnay. It bathes the palate with a nicely balanced, textured and tangy stream of white peach and yellow plum juxtaposed with racy lemon pie filling. Clean, crisp and refreshing, it finishes with a delightful wisp of ginger, it pours exceptionally well on its own and pairs with grilled calamari, roast pork or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2015

Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (673897) 14.5% alcohol
This complex, delectable red shimmers with ripe, black fruit, deft balance and excellent tang. Aromas of juicy black currant and mulberry interlace with floral notes. A generous mouthful of currant and mulberry coat the palate mingling with good acidity and baking spice—it spent 12 – 13 months in 75% French and 25% American oak that’s now nicely integrated. Fruit and tang persist through the lengthy finish. This punches well above the price. (Vic Harradine)

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
This’ll knock your socks off given the price-quality balance tipped so wildly in your favour, it’s not that far off a 5-star rating. It’s rich, ripe and rarin’ to go, dripping with juicy ripe fruit along with balancing tang and acidity bathing the palate—red and black currant with wisps of peppery spice and minty notes. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and complexity throughout. The finish lingers, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Morambro Creek Chardonnay from Jip Jip Rocks aged 10 months in French oak, 35% new, 65% 2nd fill. Fruit selected from prime blocks on the Estate using ambient and cultured yeasts, partial barrel ferment, left on lees and stirred with partial malolactic conversion. The final wine was carefully assembled from select barrels.

Morambro Creek Chardonnay 2014
Padthaway, South Australia $35.00 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of nutmeg and cinnamon interweave with wisps of orchard fruit on the nose of this deftly balanced, medium-plus weight, gorgeously textured Chardonnay. A profusion of fruit and tang envelope the palate with juicy ripe pear and white nectarine juxtaposed with lemony tang, mineral notes, racy white grapefruit and a ginger snap on the long luxurious aftertaste. This is complex with persistent purity of fruit and considerable structure. Fabulous now, even better in 2018. (Vic Harradine)