May 23, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines  – 7 of 62 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines – many under $20 ; three in the Main Release with four following, all identified by the  icon. 
• 5-star wines – 4 wines rang the 5-star bell, two of them in the Main Release and two following. 
• Ontario shines – 8 Ontario wineries are represented in the newsletter with more than their fair share of 5-star and exceptional value  wines: Henry of Pelham, Jackson-Triggs, Fielding, Konzelmann, Pillitteri, Redstone, Riverview and Vineland Estates. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, still best to phone first. 

Vintages Release: May 24, 2014

• Two fortified-wine reviews follow, one sweet, one dry, and neither very expensive. Fortified wines are not well understood and don’t enjoy wide acceptance, even amongst wine lovers. They’re thought of as ‘sweet’, they’re high in alcohol and occasionally expensive. Here’s an under-$20 opportunity to experience two—with food. Neither improve in bottle, but both can be stored for a few years unopened. The first is a Port wine. Try this with blue-veined cheese or dark chocolate. After opening you may keep in the fridge, corked, for 4 or 5 days, one or two glasses per evening is usually enough, it’s high alcohol and rich. The second, a Madeira, is not sweet, it’s medium dry and pours extremely well as an aperitif, with consommé, sushi, sashimi or smoked duck. Can be kept at room temperature for a few months after opening as long as it’s re-corked. Enjoy! 

Fortified Wine: Port

Dow’s ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2008
DOC Douro $17.95 (613927) 20.0% alcohol
The über-perfumed nose of fig, plum and spice heralds a palate-coating wash of sweet black cherry, raisin and Christmas cake spice. It’s full bodied, fully flavoured and sports a lengthy, somewhat surprisingly, balanced finished. This comes from a good vintage, was bottled four to six years after harvest—spending that time in seasoned oak barrels—generally doesn’t need decanting. It’s divine with blue-veined cheese or dark chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Madeira

Broadbent ‘Rainwater Medium-Dry’ Madeira
DOC Madeira $20.95 (943258) 19.0% alcohol
This offers up a tantalizing river of caramel, dark raisin and tang preceded by aromas of fig, nutty notes and honey garnished with baking spice. It’s mid weight, creamy textured and deftly balanced. The finish is luscious and brimming with candied fruits, notions of citrus and wisps of salty notes on the lingering aftertaste. Pour with sushi, sashimi, smoked duck or smoked, hard cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine 

Bernard-Massard ‘Cuvée de l’Écusson’ Brut Rosé Non-vintage
AOC Luxembourg $21.95 (369074) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a mountain of bubbles in this lean, sleek Rosé. Aromas and flavours of red berry fruit abound—strawberry, cherry and currant, robed in tangy red grapefruit and spice. It has character, medium body, reasonable mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing finish. Pour with pasta in cream sauce or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate – Grand Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (367797) 13.5% alcohol 

This brims with a salad bowl of tropical fruit, racy lemon and peach/nectarine aromas on the nose. A river of balanced, delicious, succulent white peach, tangy lemon pie filling and grilled pineapple washes over the palate infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. The aftertaste layers on green apple and ripe pear. Sip on its own or pair with white pizza topped with chèvre—very good value and recent medal winner at the All-Canadian Wine Championships competition. (Vic Harradine)


Vineland Estates Chardonnay Musqué 2011
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (996793) 12.5% alcohol
This jumps from the glass with perfumed aromas of rosewater, exotic spice, musk and orange blossom. It’s rich, ripe and luscious on the palate with oodles of white peach, apple and pear. Light on its feet with a silky mouth feel, the finish is balanced, full of character and just plain delicious. It’s one of the best Chardonnay Musqué tasted in some time. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine 

Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree Red’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol
Dark toast and roasted herbs on the nose, this is mid weight with satin-smooth mouth feel and still-resolving tannin on the palate and back end. There are waves of dark berry fruit and savory-infused cherry on the palate replaying on the long aftertaste underpinned by tannin and good moderating acidity garnished by mocha and wisps of wood smoke. Pop corks 2015 to 2020 or pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant alongside seasoned, grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Frank Family ‘Carneros’ Chardonnay 2012
Carneros $36.95 (289140) 14.4% alcohol
This was barrel-fermented and aged nine months in French oak resulting in a gorgeous white from cork pop to last drop. It’s quintessential, premium California Chardonnay with truckloads of flavour—caramel apple, toasty notes, ripe pear and buttered toast—balanced, structured and complex. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste. What’s not to like. (Vic Harradine)


McManis Family Pinot Grigio 2012
California $17.95 (181453) 11.5% alcohol
Nothing complicated here, ripe aromas and flavours of pear, apple and floral notes with a light-on-its-feet wash of tangy citrus, wisps of honey and nectarine. It’s clean, crisp and mouth-watering on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with chicken salad in creamy dressing. (Vic Harradine)


Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012
Napa Valley $19.95 (311548) 13.9% alcohol
This is very good value, luscious, rich and complex. Toasty notes and piquant spice herald a creamy, dreamy river of rich, palate-bathing flavour—toffee apple, baking spice and pit fruit—garnished with grilled pineapple and crème brulée. It’s medium-full bodied with a complex aftertaste that goes forever, refreshing, luscious and balanced. Pour alongside roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Bonaccorsi Cargasacchi Pinot Noir 2010
Santa Rita Hills $53.95 (329599) 14.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, savory notes, toasted oak and dark berry fruit aromas presage a sweet, ripe river of strawberry, red cherry and currant melding with spice and earthy notes. Mid weight and nicely structured, there’s good mouth feel and a well-balanced aftertaste with loads of red and black fruit, notions of forest floor and terrific, lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)


Cosentino ‘Cigar Zin’ Zinfandel 2011
California $21.95 (269340) 13.5% alcohol
Charred oak and black currant aromas on the nose; flavour spills over the palate with spice-infused bramble berry, sour cherry and tang-laden acidity to the fore. It’s medium-full weight and nicely textured with a mid-length finish of spice-infused briary berry and persistent racy tang. Smoked, grilled ribs or grilled strip loin pair well. (Vic Harradine)


Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $55.95 (932400) 13.2% alcohol
Aromas of wood smoke and sweet vanilla interweave with dark cherry and notes of minerality. Mid weight and sleek in the mouth, this streaks across the palate with sour cherry and red currant flavours framed by bracing acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. The finish mirrors palate flavours and the tang. Pour with pasta puttanesca or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $19.95 (025106) 14.5% alcohol
This trusted producer of good-value, balanced, flavour-filled wine doesn’t disappoint here. Aromas of dark berry fruit, spice, notions of anise and mint spill from this medium-bodied, heavenly textured gem. There’s a salad bowl of palate-bathing flavours—black bramble berry, ripe mulberry and spice-infused dark, juicy Bing cherry—interlaced with sweet vanilla and toasty bits from seven months in French and American oak persisting through the balanced, complex, lingering aftertaste. Great value, great wine. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Alexana ‘Red Label’ Pinot Noir 2012
Willamette Valley $29.95 (372367) 14.1% alcohol
Blueberry, cherry and spice-infused black plum aromas abound. There’s a broad seam of tang that persists throughout—red currant and sour cherry garnished with beet root—that’s medium bodied and silky textured. It’s all underpinned by perceptible tannin, tamed by uncorking after 2015 or pouring after a three-hour aeration/decant. Serve with steak and kidney pie. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Chakana Maipe ‘Reserve’ Bonarda 2011
Mendoza $18.95 (361212) 14.0% alcohol
Dark coffee, fig and dark cherry aromas precede a rich, dense river of well-paced pleasure—black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with cocoa and a solid spine of good moderating tang. It’s quite full bodied and fully flavoured with a lip-smacking finish and the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. Try with rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)


Dominio Del Plata ‘Crios Limited Edition Red Blend’ 2012
Mendoza $14.95 (366146) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—40% Malbec, 40% Bonarda, 15% Tannat, 5% Syrah—is fresh and lively with aromas of mixed field berry and spice showing the way. A tangy splash of red currant and strawberry flavours race over the palate. It’s medium bodied with a mid-length, dry finish of red and dark berry fruit infused with piquant spice. Pour alongside paella with sausage and prawns. (Vic Harradine)


Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (261867) 14.9% alcohol
Aromas of forest floor, wood smoke and pipe tobacco stream from this mid-full weight, well-priced Malbec. Ripe, black fruit blankets the palate, balanced and beautiful with creamy mouth feel and oodles of charm. It finishes with complexity and a blaze of fruit-forward flavour—dark bramble berry and spice-laden black cherry predominant. Here’s good value in a crowd-pleaser to pour for large gatherings around your outdoor grill. (Vic Harradine)


Leo ‘Premium’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza $19.95 (375121) 14.5% alcohol
Red and dark fruit with gamy notes on the nose, this is well paced and certainly worth a look—winery owner and iconic, Argentine footballer, Lionel (Leo) Messi, donates all profits to assist at-risk kids. Black currant and dark cherry interweave on the spice-infused wash bathing the palate. It’s mid-full weight with good acidity and a long, balanced finish and aftertaste. Good to go now or watching the World Cup in June with Messi starring for Argentina. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

La Joya ‘Reserve’ Viognier 2013
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (168542) 13.5% alcohol
Toast and honeysuckle aromas on the nose, this skips lightly across the palate with peach, honey and spice. It’s light-medium bodied with balance and delicacy in tone and flavour. The mid-length finish replays palate flavours layering on white grapefruit pith on the finish. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes Alpha Syrah 2010
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (612) 14.5% alcohol
Primarily Syrah, there’s a couple of splashes of Cab Sauv - 7% and a spoonful of Viognier - 3%. The nose offers aromas of sweet vanilla, berry fruit and mocha heralding savory-infused dark berry fruit melding with a solid spine of racy acidity on the palate. It’s medium weight with decent mouth feel and a mid-length aftertaste. This pours well with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

De Bortoli ‘Gulf Station’ Pinot Noir 2012
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.95 (015511) 13.0% alcohol
From one of Australia’s prominent wineries—they produce ‘Noble One’, a dessert wine sought world wide by wine-lovers, found in the much-heralded Langton’s Classification of Australia’s most sought-after wines. This dishes up great purity of fruit, balance and a long, lip-smacking finish. Fruit was hand picked, 20% whole-bunch, wild-yeast fermented then aged nine months in French oak before bottling and after a three week maceration and fermentation. Tangy red berry and cherry flavours join sweet vanilla and toasty oak on the palate and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Rolf Binder ‘Hales’ Shiraz 2010 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (054239) 14.0% alcohol 

Intense, complex and oozing with good structure, this opens with aromas of exotic spice, roasted herbs and wisps of dried currant. A river of teeth-staining dark, rich fruit coats the palate with dark, juicy cherry and ripe red currant interwoven with dark chocolate, fennel and wisps of espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lively, tangy aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Konrad Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (616243) 13.5% alcohol
Nettles, gooseberry and hints of matchstick on the nose, this delivers a bracing seam of acidity and tang riding along with flavours of passion fruit and freshly squeezed lemon. Its mid weight with good mouth feel and a tangy finish that’s dry, crisp and refreshing. Pour with a platter of freshly shucked Malpecs, each under a dot of hot sauce and squirt of lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (324228) 13.5% alcohol
This delivers in spades; sourced from premium fruit from a very ripe vintage, from premium sites—The Golden Mile—it’s handled with meticulous care. Flavours of lemon and grapefruit citrus dominate on entry broadening out on the mid and back palate with tropical fruit and wisps of white peach. It’s complex, well structured, balanced on a pin and framed with persistent tang. It showcases good weight and texture, notions of salinity and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. As with the 2012… very tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

Salomon ‘Groovey’ Grüner Veltliner 2013
Product of Austria $14.95 (669606) 12.5% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of citrus and herbaceous notes herald a clean crisp river of Meyer lemon, minerality and notions of a piquant spice akin to pepper. It’s refreshing throughout highlighting good acidity and green apple on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pours very well with a surprising number of dishes—pan-seared fish, sushi and sashimi, baked ham or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Jean-Marc Brocard ‘Vaucoupin’ Chablis 1er Cru 2011
AOC Chablis $27.95 (288019) 12.5% alcohol
This is textbook unoaked Chablis—it’s sleek and built for seafood or pasta in cream sauce. Smoke, mineral and citrus aromas presage a vibrant line of minerality and green apple robed in flinty minerality that washes over the palate infusing the crisp, mouth-watering finish. It’s light on its feet, but has the mouth feel and character to marry well to steamed mussels or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)


Beauvignac ‘Picpoul de Pinet’ 2013
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $13.95 (350124) 12.5% alcohol
This dishes up a lovely combination of ripe fruit flavours and saline/citrus tang. Aromas of orange blossom and tropical fruit introduce a lighter-styled white that will pour well with pan-seared freshwater fish. It’s light bodied with delicate flavours of white nectarine and bracing lemon acidity and wisps of salinity on the palate and lip-smacking aftertaste. Very good value. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Château d’Aquéria Tavel 2013
AOC Tavel $21.95 (319368) 14.0% alcohol
Electric pink-hued, this hails from an appellation that makes only Rosé. It has good heft—note the alcohol—and is fully flavoured with strawberry, red currant and red cherry galore. It has medium weight with good mouth feel and a dry, crisp, mouth-watering finish. Great for sipping with enough flavour and oomph to pair with roast chicken, pan-seared salmon or mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)


Château Bellevue La Forêt Rosé 2013
AOC Fronton $14.95 (219840) 12.0% alcohol
This is a value-packed interesting blend of Gamay, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc, hustling from the glass with lifted aromas of rose petals, red plum and watermelon along with mixed spice. There’s plenty of sweet ripe fruit on the palate—cherry and raspberry—that’s balanced nicely with citrus and sour cherry notes on the crisp, refreshing finish. Pour with white pizza or Waldorf salad with chicken. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Unfortunately, the minimal tasting hours ran out before the table of French reds could be approached.

Italy: Red Wine

Domus Vitae ‘Rosso Di Montalcino’ 2010
DOC Montalcino $21.95 (168757) 13.8% alcohol
Unmistakeable aromas of earthy, dusty notes mingle with black plum and spice heralding a fresh, lively river of sour cherry and red currant on the palate infusing the lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s medium bodied and struts its stuff with food—a deli platter, meat-laden pizza, pasta in tomato sauce, lasagne. (Vic Harradine)


Lazzeretti Brunello Di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Montalcino $42.95 (318352) 14.5% alcohol
This is fully flavoured with good weight, texture and complexity. Dark and red berry fruit with baking spice aromas dominate the nose while good acidity and structure frame the delectable flavour profile—black berry, currant and sweet, ripe mulberry garnished with hints of red cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a long finish. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2015-2025. (Vic Harradine)


Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2004
DOC Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (986117) 15.0% alcohol
Made by the former doyen of Veneto; Giuseppe Quintarelli is regrettably with us no longer. For wine lovers this is one of life’s affordable luxuries. Dried berry fruit, licorice and prune aromas presage a complex, beautifully structured, palate-bathing wave of red cherry and black currant melding with black plum compote and raisiny notes. It’s balanced, underpinned with supple tannin and framed with great acidity. The purity of fruit infuses the lingering, luscious aftertaste. Good to go now with a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Meandro Do Vale Meão 2011
DOC Douro $24.95 (244731) 14.0% alcohol
A delightful six-grape red blend that includes copious amounts of three premium Port grapes, this is surprisingly approachable, rich and luscious—pop corks and taste now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2022. Aromas of rose petals and dark berry fruit provide segue for a balanced and beautiful wash of flavour with bramble berry and dark, juicy cherry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lingering balanced aftertaste with good acidity and heft. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Cosme Palacio ‘Reserva’ 2007
DOCa Rioja $23.95 (014662) 14.0% alcohol
Dark coffee, dried dark berry fruit and smoky/oaky aromas open the door for palate-bathing flavours of black plum compote and red cherry interweaving with black licorice, forest floor and gamy notes. It’s medium weight with good texture and a mid-length drying finish. Pour alongside chicken chorizo paella or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: July 5, 2014

Redstone Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 13.5% alcohol 
Delicate aromas of floral notes and red berry fruit interweave with bell pepper and graphite presaging a creamy smooth, tang-infused wash of ripe, juicy bramble berry and dark Bing cherry interwoven with wisps of pomegranate and savory spice. It’s medium bodied with good texture, balanced and brimming with cool-climate charm. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2019—pours well with spiced lamb burgers and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011

Lodi, California $17.00 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
Plum jam and wisps of cloves herald a medium-weight wash of sweet berry fruit and notions of milk chocolate interlaced with baking spice on the palate. It finishes with good, tangy acidity, piquant spice and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s softened since last tasted and pairs well with grilled ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

Sparkling Wine

Brachetto d’Acqui Rosé Non-vintage
DOCG Brachetto d’Acqui, Italy $13.35 (375667) 6.5% alcohol
Perfumed and bubbly from the get go, aromas of roses and spice spill from the glass. On the palate it’s sugared strawberries and candied cherry on the palate and through the delightful finish. Sure you can chill and pour this low-alcohol gem on its own or with soft white cheese, but you can also make a brunch or lunch cocktail—3 oz Brachetto d’Acqui; 3 oz orange juice with Cocoa liqueur to taste. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann ‘K’ Rosé Non-vintage
Niagara Peninsula $16.20 (184176) 12.5% alcohol
A copper-hue and floral and strawberry aromas provide the grand entrance to this flavourful sparkler. Strawberry, red currant and cherry flavours bathe the palate supported by delightful bubbles, good balance and a crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Extremely versatile; give it a go as a welcoming wine, pour with light appetizers or pair with a deli board, white pizza, pan-seared salmon or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

Still Wine

Ascheri Barbera d’Alba 2010
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $15.80 (219790) 13.5% alcohol
Smoky notes mingle with red and dark berry fruit on the nose of this sleek, tangy red. Flavours of tangy sour cherry and cranberry interweave with bramble berry and sprigs of herbs. Its light-medium bodied with oodles of acidity and good grip on the palate and finish. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagne. (Vic Harradine)


Boutinot ‘Les Volets’ Malbec 2012
IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude, France $10.70 (332973) 13.0% alcohol
Fresh, liveley aromas of red cherry and spice presage a balanced, light-on-its-feet splash of sour cherry interlaced with ripe mulberry and red plum. It’s well paced and nicely focused with palate flavour replaying on the balanced and beautiful finish. This pours well alongside grilled chicken breast or grilled veal cutlets. There’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate ‘Fireside White’ 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (303040) 11.5% alcohol 
This is a delightful off-dry blend—Riesling 44%, Gewürztraminer 26%, Pinot Gris 19%, Chardonnay Musqué 11%—that’s perfumed and alluring on the nose—aromas of lychee, lime and exotic spice. Tangy, palate-bathing flavours of lime cordial and blood orange interlace with wisps of grapefruit pith, apple and pear; medium weight and nicely textured. The balanced, lip-smacking aftertaste lingers. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Pinot Gris 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (223610) 12.0% alcohol 
This is pink-hued with wonderful aromas of peach, melon and pear interlaced with honey and mixed spice. It’s creamy smooth, medium weight, rich and luscious on the plate with tangerine, ripe apple and tangy grapefruit to the fore. It finishes lengthy in a blaze of crisp, refreshing flavour and tang—honeyed pit fruit and lemon citrus. It’s great value and improves immensely after a twenty-minute, out-of-frig, aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate Riesling 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (146761) 10.5% alcohol
This gem offers up delicate aromas of Key lime, Granny Smith apple and pear. It bathes the plate with a focused stream of tang-laden flavour in a fruit salad of citrus—blood orange, Meyer lemon and ruby red grapefruit. It’s sleek and majestic on the palate with good body and texture, deft balance and laser-like, lip-smacking acidity and mineral notes on the palate, finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared trout or pickerel. (Vic Harradine)


Hess Select Chardonnay 2011
Monterey County $15.95 (270074) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, tropical fruit and wisps of toast and oak aromas presage a medium-bodied, generously textured river of delectable, ripe flavour—white peach, green apple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit—garnished with a tangy spoonful of moderating lemon-lime tang. The finish replays palate flavours; balanced and beautiful. Versatile at the table with roast pork, veal, chicken or seafood; this is very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (112946) 13.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, pipe tobacco and mixed field berry fruit aromas herald a flavourful, nicely balanced river of sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry; medium-bodied, nicely textured. It finishes smooth and mellow, fully flavoured with strong replays, wisps of mint and mouth-watering good. Pour alongside grilled red meat or pasta in tomato sauce with meatballs. Good value to be had here. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (219279) 12.5% alcohol
Earn 5 AIR MILES® reward miles until May 24, 2014. Opening with floral, banana and spice aromas, this bathes the palate with lemon chiffon pie, apple and pear flavours interwoven with spicy ginger. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel and a nicely balanced aftertaste. Pour with three-cheese pizza—brie, chèvre and mozzarella. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Riesling 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (200501) 11.0% alcohol
Rose petals, sharp spice and Meyer lemon aromas jump from the glass. Bracing lemon tang streaks across the palate melding with white grapefruit and notions of Key lime. It’s light on its feet with a clean, crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside Alsatian onion tart. (Vic Harradine)

New In Ontario Wineries

Order a case, or mixed case, of the following two wines and those reviewed in the May 7, 2014 newsletter for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Fielding Estate.


Fielding Estate Pinot Noir 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, dark berry fruit, spice and espresso roast provide segue for a medium-bodied, perfumed wash of floral-scented sour cherry, pomegranate and red currant flowing over the palate. It’s light-medium bodied with oodles of red-fruit tang. It’ll really shine with pasta in simple tomato sauce or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate ‘Lot No. 17 – Fielding Vineyard’ Riesling 2013 

VQA Beamsville Bench $25.95 10.0% alcohol
Riesling lovers take note—fresh and lively on the nose and palate, this single-vineyard beauty struts its stuff with aromas of ripe peach, nectarine and apricot interlaced with spice and floral notes. A bracing line of lemon-lime and pineapple interlaced with mineral notes and green apple streak across the palate, infusing the crisp, fresh, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel. This will improve in bottle, although quite wonderful now. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following four wines online for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Pillitteri.


Pillitteri Estates Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 13.0% alcohol
You’re getting a lot for your money here as it spent 9 months in expensive French oak barriques after being sourced from one of Niagara’s exceptionally good vintages. Melon, a salad bowl of tropical fruit and buttered toast on the nose, this medium-weight, nicely textured gem dishes up lovely flavours of peach, pear and apple then layers on crisp lemon acidity on the lingering finish. There’s good value in this. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates Gewürztraminer 2012 

VQA Niagara-on the-Lake $18.00 12.5% alcohol
Trust me on this, a thirty-minute decant will do wonders for this wine, it will open up and deliver all it has to give… and that’s quite a bit. Rosewater, ginger and exotic spice pour from the nose of this limited-production beauty—only 150 cases made. It’s slightly off-dry and fully flavoured with oodles of nectarine and apple interwoven with flecks of spice and mango. There’s just enough acidity to offer a refreshing aftertaste that’s luscious and lengthy with enough oomph to pair with butter chicken and garlic naan. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates ‘Winemakers Selection’ Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $68.00 13.0% alcohol
Graphite and pipe tobacco with dried currant aromas presage an intensely concentrated wash of black currant, espresso roast and anise—full-bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel. It’s nicely balanced with good structure and framed with good moderating acidity. The still-resolving tannin provides great underpinning, while the lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste is garnished with toasty oak, sweet vanilla and bright red cherry. Aerate/decant for three-hours pouring with well-seasoned strip loin; better to pop corks 2016 and beyond. Kudos to winemaker, Alex Kolundzic. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates Vidal ‘Reserve’ Icewine 2012 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $27.00 (200ml) 10.5% alcohol
Rich and luscious, complex and structured, alluring aromas of mango, apricot and nectarine interlace with exotic spice on the alluring nose. Palate-coating waves of tropical fruit and peach preserves wash over the palate with citrus acidity and notions of ginger on the balanced, clean, refreshing finish and aftertaste. This is a textbook example of premium Vidal Icewine. (Vic
Harradine)

Order the following two wines, and those reviewed in the May 7 newsletter archived at www.winecurrent.com by the case for daily home or office delivery via email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..  Owned and advised by Tawse Winery, they’ve arrived on the scene with quite a splash - pun intended. 


Redstone Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc 2010 

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 13.5% alcohol 
Delicate aromas of floral notes and red berry fruit interweave with notions of bell pepper and graphite presaging a creamy smooth, tang-infused wash of ripe, juicy bramble berry and dark Bing cherry interwoven with wisps of pomegranate and savory spice. Its medium bodied with good texture, balanced and brimming with cool-climate charm. It’s good to go now and on to 2019 and shines with spiced lamb burgers and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)


Redstone Winery ‘Redstone Vineyard’ Merlot 2010 

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $39.95 13.5% alcohol 
Dark-purple hued, almost opaque, this dishes up quiet aromas of black plum with roasted herbs and hints of black pepper. It’s complex with great red cherry and red currant tang garnished with ripe mulberry and black currant underpinned with perceptible tannin and savory bits on the back palate. This is at sixes and sevens in its development right now with a fine future in store. Pop corks 2016 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following four wines by the case of 12—mixed, if you like—with daily free delivery in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant from Riverview.


Riverview Cellars ‘Angelina’s Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara River $18.95 (368092) 13.7% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of rosewater and exotic spice jump from the glass of this off-dry, gorgeously textured gem. Fully textured—a beautiful oily character—and fully flavoured with ripe, spicy white peach, lemon tang and honeyed pit fruit coating the palate, infusing the moth-watering, spicy finish. This is the perfect accompaniment to spicy Asian cuisine like tandoori chicken or hot and sour Chinese eggplant. There’s terrific value in this. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars Pinot Grigio 2012
VQA Niagara River $13.95 13.1% alcohol
Buckwheat honey and sweet, ripe apple on the nose, this delivers a lovely river of flavour caressing the palate with crisp pear, green apple and lemon pie filling. It’s mid weight with generous texture and a tangy, spicy aftertaste showcasing length, deft balance and lip-smacking charm. This is a gorgeous wine on its own or with pan-seared scallops or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars ‘Angelina’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 13.6% alcohol
Caramel, exotic spice, apple and pear aromas abound. A wash of Granny Smith apple and crisp pear bathe the palate adorned with piquant spice and tangy lemon curd. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste—creamy lemon yoghurt and ripe red apple. Pour alongside roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Riverview Cellars ‘Salvatore’s Reserve’ Malbec 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $29.95 12.5% alcohol
Spice, chocolate and dark berry fruit on the nose; this delivers a light-on-its-feet wash of red cherry and cranberry on the palate; infusing the finish and dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s a perfect match with a deli board selection of sliced meats—salami, mortadella, capicola—provolone and olives with a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines by the case from Amano Import by contacting Lori Kilmartin at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or +1 613-489-1596. The wine will be delivered to the LCBO store of your choice at no extra charge. Add 13% HST and (refundable when returned) .20 per bottle to prices shown below. Here is the website for Manuel Marinacci winery.



Manuel Marinacci Dolcetto d’Alba 2012
DOC Dolcetto d’Alba, Italy $23.95 12.5% alcohol
Grapey, red cherry and spice aromas herald a spirited river of fresh, lively flavour with red berry fruit and tangy red cherry to the fore. It’s deftly balanced, mid weight with good texture and great purity of fruit. The lingering luscious aftertaste is lip-smacking good and garnished with piquant spice and notions of mocha. Pour with friends, garlic bread and cheese manicotti. (Vic Harradine)


Manuel Marinacci Barbera d’Alba 2010
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $27.95 14.5% alcohol
Opaque and brooding in the glass, roasted herbs and graphite aromas meld with notions of prune on the nose. It bathes the palate with medium-bodied, silky-smooth waves of black currant, black plum compote and baking spice. This is well balanced, with structure and oodles of flavour on the rich and luscious aftertaste. Decant; it may throw harmless sediment. (Vic Harradine)


Manuel Marinacci ‘Pajà’ Barbaresco 2009
DOCG Barbaresco, Italy $46.95 14.0% alcohol
Barbaresco is usually considered ‘little brother’ to Barolo, both in Piedmont, both vinified with Nebbiolo grapes—however, this dishes up quite a hefty mouthful. Tar, leather and dark berry fruit—bramble, currant and blueberry wash over the palate, full bodied, fully flavoured and underpinned by supple, still-resolving tannin. It showcases purity of fruit, earthy notes and plenty of moderating acidity. Pop corks 2016 to 2022 or open now, decanting four hours pouring with seasoned, grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan