July 17, 2014 Newsletter
Highlights include:
- Exceptional value wines – there are 9 of 54 wines that meet the strict quality-price guidelines – most under $18. All are identified by the icon. What strict guidelines? Click here.
- 5-star wines – one wine rang the 5-star bell: Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011 for $30.00 earning an exceptional value rating, found under the Cool Climate Chardonnay feature.
- Taste Local – The LCBO announced its annual Taste Local promotion encouraging restaurants to offer Ontario VQA wines by the glass September 14 to October 11. We’re encouraging you to seek these out and have a small sample of what’s in store with eight wines reviewed in a Special Feature—all below $20. Look for more next newsletter.
- Susan Selects – Pondview ‘Bella Terra’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 4½ stars @ $34.95 under Ontario: Red Wine; Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2012 4½ stars @ $20.95 under British Columbia: White Wine
- Vic Picks – Rancho Zabaco ‘Heritage Vines’ Zinfandel 2012 4½ stars @ $19.95 under California: Red Wine; Château Teyssier 2009 4½ stars @ $23.95 under France: Red Wine
Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores, then entering your postal code. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Still, always best to phone first.
Special Feature: Taste Local - Ontario Wine
White Wine
Peller Estate ‘Peller Family Series’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (371864) 12.4% alcohol
There’s good value offered here. Sharp, focused aromas of gooseberry, grassy notes and piquant spice introduce a light-on-its-feet, crisp clean white. Delicate flavours caress the palate—passion fruit, tangy lemon and wisps of green apple and pear. The refreshing finish highlights mouth-watering acidity interwoven with ripe yellow plum. (Vic Harradine)
Colio ‘Bricklayer’s Predicament’ Chardonnay-Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $14.95 (371567) 13.0% alcohol
This shines a light on the warmest VQA appellation with a gorgeous white blend. Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus precede a rich luscious river of tangy citrus and grilled pineapple mingling with ripe peach and pear with hints of honeycomb on the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and plenty of charm. This is balanced and beautiful with a lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Vintage Ink ‘Rite of Passage’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (245712) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, ripe apple and pear aromas interlace with baking spice on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured Chardonnay. Green apple and ripe pear join tangy citrus on the palate and mid-length finish. Pour with roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin Pinot Grigio 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (348979) 12.5% alcohol
The price quality-balance in this bronze-hued gem tips well in your favour. It opens with aromas of honeyed pit fruit and floral notes heralding a balanced, rich river of rich ripe pear, apple and grilled pineapple coating the palate persisting through the lingering finish. It’s medium weight with an aftertaste that layers on grapefruit and lime cordial. (Vic Harradine)
Silver Bay Cellars Riesling-Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (372771) 12.0% alcohol
A lifted nose of nectarine, exotic spice and floral notes provide segue for an off-dry surge of tang and sweet, ripe fruit—candied lime, blood orange interweaving with sugared and grilled, ruby red grapefruit. It’s medium bodied with generous mouth feel and a lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Give this a go on its own or poured with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot fermented and aged separately an average of 16 months in oak barrels. Roasted herbs, dark chocolate and anise on the nose, this washes in fully textured waves over the palate with bright red cherry, sweet mulberry and a smidgen of black pepper. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced throughout with a lingering aftertaste of briary berry and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)
Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (64618) 13.0% alcohol
Spice-laden aromas of dark berry fruit, toast and pipe tobacco reveal a gold mine of palate-bathing flavour with ripe, dark juicy fruit—cherry, black currant and mulberry robed with mixed spice and excellent moderating acidity. This is medium bodied with good texture with good texture, excellent moderating acidity and a long delicious finish. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)
The Foreign Affair ‘The Conspiracy’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (149237) 13.8% alcohol
This Cabernet Sauvignon, Ripasso-inspired red—the wine was ‘passed over’ Cab Sauv and Cab Franc skins from dried wines—highlights aromas of raisin, fig and red cherry. It flows over the palate with tannin-infused waves of dark berry fruit and red cherry that are spice laden and framed with good moderating acidity. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a long finish laced with still-evolving tannin. Pop corks 2017-2022 after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: July 19, 2014
Feature: Cool-climate Chardonnay
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (33936) 13.5% alcohol
Spice box, ripe apple, pear and toasty oak aromas spill from this rich, complex and beautifully structured gem. Baked apple pie, vanilla and lemon curd interlace with peach and nectarine on the mid-full weight, generously textured wash bathing the palate, persisting through the long finish. It’s tangy and mouth-watering on the aftertaste and was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
13th Street ‘June’s Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Creek Shores $21.95 (236745) 13.5% alcohol
For wine lovers looking for the pure taste of a Chardonnay with oodles of verve and personality, this is for you. Unoaked, this straw-hued gem delivers wonderful aromas and flavours of orchard fruit, lemon-lime, bread yeast and earthy minerality. Dry, almost spritzy in texture, it’s medium bodied, round yet lively and fresh through the persistent finish. Enjoy with pan-fried pickerel. (Susan Desjardins)
Jackson-Triggs ‘Niagara Estate Grand Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (593996) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of lemon-lime, mandarin orange and buttered toast precede a gusher of racy lemon and grapefruit mingling with ripe red apple and notions of tropical fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel, great balance and oodles of charm. The finish replays palate flavours along with wisps of toasty oaky bits and a crisp refreshing, aftertaste. This offers very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Champy ‘Pernand-Vergelesses en Caradeux 1er Cru’ 2011
AOC Burgundy $49.95 (344143) 13.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, piquant spice and minerality coalesce on the nose heralding a balanced lively river of tang-laden citrus, crisp green apple and orange zest streaking across the palate infusing the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-plus weight and nicely textured with good structure and balance. Pour with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Sparkling Wine
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-vintage
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (48801) 12.0% alcohol
Dry, light in body, offering a fine creamy mousse, this lovely Crémant balances refreshing vibrant acidity, clean minerality and subtle notes of citrus, green apple and brioche. Long and bright on the finish, it’s excellent value and can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)
Nova Scotia: White Wine
Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2013
Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia $25.95 (256289) 7.0% alcohol
A slight peach-skin blush and heady, perfumed aromas of sweet Turkish delight, honeysuckle, exotic musky spice and lemon-lime notes open this balanced, spritzy, gem. Lime-soaked guava, blood orange and sweet, spice-laden candy apple bathe the palate infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s summer in a glass and lip-smacking good. Pours well as an aperitif or paired with blue cheese like Blue Bénédictin. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Crooked Pine ‘Late Harvest’ Vidal 2012
VQA Ontario $17.95 (368738) 11.0% alcohol
Aromas of sweet apricot, honeyed peach and peel marmalade present on the nose and dominate the medium-sweet, mid-weight wash over the palate and abbreviated finish. It cleans up well on the aftertaste with good citrus acidity. Pour with fruit flan, a spicy dish or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
Pondview ‘Bella Terra’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek $34.95 (373100) 14.5% alcohol
From a great Niagara vintage, this inky red flaunts its opulent presence with complex aromas of dark fruits, tapenade, smoke, vanilla and dried herbs. Dry, full bodied, warm, rich and ripe, the luscious berries and plum meld harmoniously with notes of chocolate, coffee bean and grilled herbs. Structured with well-defined tannins and refined acidity, this exudes power and depth through the lengthy finish. It’ll cellar further, don’t stop at one bottle. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
Wildass Rosé 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (71712) 14.5% alcohol
Showing great intensity, this tasty rosé offers impressive aromas including red pepper jelly, strawberry, dried cherry and musk melon. Dry, medium bodied, it’s a wine with mouth-filling presence and great balance—the red pepper and red fruits shine through. It has the weight to pair with grilled salmon; or simply savour it well chilled. (Susan Desjardins)
British Columbia: White wine
Gray Monk Pinot Blanc 2012
VQA Okanagan Valley $20.95 (321612) 13.2% alcohol
Pale gold, this finely crafted white showcases lovely floral notes, orchard fruit and hints of citrus. Just off-dry, medium bodied and fruity, it has a fresh juicy texture. Well-honed acidity pairs with ripe pear, melon and citrus delivering great balance. You’ll find a touch of sweet fruit on the finish. Enjoy with lighter-styled appetizers or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
Franciscan Chardonnay 2012
Napa Valley $25.95 (496125) 13.5% alcohol
This is structured, complex, balanced and beautiful. Toasted oak, green apple and mixed spice on the nose, this spills over the palate with lip-smacking, spice-laden ripe pineapple and lemon pie filling. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a lengthy clean, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Give it a go with fettuccine Alfredo or supermarket rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Ironstone Chardonnay 2012
California $18.95 (355776) 13.5% alcohol
Tropical fruit, spice box and notions of talcum powder aromas herald palate-bathing, tangy, delectable tropical fruit, racy citrus and notes of toasty oak. Mid weight and nicely textured, the finish is lengthy, crisp and clean with grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. Pour with white pizza or pasta in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)
La Crema Chardonnay 2012
Monterey $25.95 (158683) 13.5% alcohol
Balanced and complex with great purity of fruit, there’s good value in this crowd pleaser. Baking spice, tropical fruit and buttered toast aromas abound. It’s full flavoured and fully textured with a river of flavour—grilled pineapple, juicy white nectarine and lemon pie filling—coating the palate persisting through the long, long aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Brazin ‘(B)Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
Lodi $19.95 (256750) 15.0% alcohol
There’s lots of pizzazz here with aromas of cedar and berry fruit and a racy, tangy line of sour cherry and red currant fashioning a mouth-watering experience. It’s medium bodied with a lightly textured mouth feel and a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or stuffed poblano peppers. (Vic Harradine)
Candor ‘Lot 5’ Zinfandel
Paso Robles $21.95 (133389) 14.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed with savory herbs and spice cake aromas, this is atypical Zin—it’s a blend of more than one vintage, referred to as ‘non-vintage’ with Champagne, not seen often in table wine. There’s milk chocolate, sweet ripe mulberry and dark Bing cherry flavours on the palate, topped off with spice and bitter almond on the aftertaste. This pairs well with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Hahn Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
California $18.95 (057877) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoky oak, toasty notes and dark coffee precede a balanced, smooth and creamy mouthful of red cherry and black briary berry robed in baking spice and oodles of charm. It’s mid-full weight and beautifully textured with a generous finish that’s dry and delicious. Pour with the red meat you like to grill and pull off the Broil King— very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Rancho Zabaco ‘Heritage Vines’ Zinfandel 2012
Sonoma County $19.95 (434605) 15.0% alcohol
Dishing up a great wine at a very good price, one wouldn’t go wrong pulling a few from the shelf—it’s spice laden, balanced, complex and delicious. Aromas of piquant spice and berry fruit unleash a torrent of creamy smooth blackberry jam and tangy, juicy cherry that, together, deliver a nicely balanced, fruit-filled, fully textured crowd-pleaser. It’s robust, even vivacious, with plenty of complexity and structure to please the most discerning Zinfanatic. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong Merlot 2010
Sonoma County $22.95 (497933) 13.5% alcohol
Asian spice, roasted herbs and espresso roast on the nose introduce delicious flavours of kirsch liqueur, tangy red cherry and dark chocolate riding a stylish river that’s balanced and smooth as silk. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering aftertaste replaying palate flavours garnished with baking spice. Slow-roast pork is a wonderful dance partner here. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Chardonnay/Viognier 2012
Uco Valley $14.95 (262097) 14.0% alcohol
Golden-hued, this well-structured beauty has fine, spiced floral character paired with citrus and pineapple aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s round and luscious, notions of tropical fruit and citrus mingling with pear, sweet spice and toasted nut. The finish is warm and slightly peppery. Serve with grilled chicken or pork. (Susan Desjardins)
Argentina: Red Wine
Manos Negras Malbec 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (271205) 13.9% alcohol
Racy aromas of red berry fruit, vanilla and charred toast abound in this tang-laden, bistro-styled Malbec. Cranberry, red currant and red cherry ride a line of tangy, mouth-watering acidity over the palate, persisting through the lip-smacking finish. Good to go now with spaghetti and meatballs. It’s hard to beat this price point. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $19.95 (118067) 14.7% alcohol
Lovely aromas are replayed on the palate with ripe mulberry and cassis mingling with spice and herbs to the fore. This is smooth, mellow and rich in the mouth while still-resolving tannin underpins the finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and dark berry fruit notes with milk chocolate on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour with rare-grilled, seasoned flank steak. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Concha Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Merlot 2011
DO Cachapoal, Peumo $21.95 (939827) 14.5% alcohol
The Peumo sector is renowned for Carmenére, Merlot like this may change all that. Mixed spice and cherry/berry fruit aromas provide segue for a tangy red and black fruit, nicely structured river—red currant and black briary berry—decorated with dark chocolate and licorice on the lengthy finish. This is medium bodied with good texture and lots of style and charm—it’s worth a serious look. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Mollydooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2012
South Australia $29.95 (246595) 16.0% alcohol
This opaque, hi-octane fruit bomb is concentrated and hedonistic. Espresso roast, tar and wood smoke aromas set the stage for palate-coating sweet, ripe mulberry jam, kirsch liqueur and black bramble berry pie. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a robust finish and aftertaste dripping with dark, ripe fruit. Pour alongside grilled back ribs slathered in spicy hot sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Small Gully ‘Mr. Black’s Little Book’ Shiraz 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (287979) 13.5% alcohol
And now for something completely different—the previous vintages reviewed were both +15% alcohol—this has reasonable alcohol and is balanced and charming. Smoke and green tobacco leaf on the nose, this rolls over the palate with stylish, almost delicate flavours of tangy red cherry and black currant with notions of spice and licorice. Medium weight and a lingering finish tie a bow on this tidy package. (Vic Harradine)
Willunga ‘100’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (376830) 14.0% alcohol
Racy, smoky and spice-laden aromas herald a stylish, tangy wash of red and black cherry, strawberry and spiced black plum. It’s mid-plus bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length aftertaste sporting wisps of cassis and baking spice. Pour anytime now with a bowl of spaghetti Bolognese or paella with sausage and prawns. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Teyssier 2009
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion $23.95 (226035) 14.0% alcohol
The plantings here are 85% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc, so no surprise it’s mellow and smooth throughout. It’s also balanced, structured and value-laden. Aromas of spice, dark toast and mixed, dark, field-berry abound. It’s medium-full bodied with red and black cherry flavours, very focused with purity of fruit and a lingering fruit-dominant aftertaste underpinned by soft tannin, framed by excellent moderating acidity. It’s perfect for the cellar, drinking now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2011
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $18.95 (119354) 15.0% alcohol
A heady, involved nose, driven by aromas of dark berry fruit, garrigue—local wild herbs—and mineral notes, heralds a tangy line of red currant and sour cherry streaking over the palate with mixed spice and roasted herbs. It’s mid weight with a lengthy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with pasta puttanesca or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Château de Nages ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2011
AOC Costières de Nîmes $19.95 (040964) 15.5% alcohol
Dark toast, savory herbs and pipe tobacco aromas set up a focused and firm stream of red and black currant robed in tangy and lip-smacking acidity. This moderates and broadens out on the mid palate and finish as ripe black berry and dark cherry join the parade. It’s medium-plus bodied with decent mouth feel and a dry, racy finish. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
Delas ‘Saint-Esprit’ Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé 2013
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.95 (224964) 13.0% alcohol
Pale salmon, this fine rosé, produced principally from Grenache, offers subtle aromas of red berries, citrus and sweet woodruff. Bone dry, medium bodied, there’s the tang of strawberry-rhubarb, citrus and lemon zest on the palate. Bright and refreshing, it’s a great match for grilled seafood or summer salads. (Susan Desjardins)
Germany: White Wine
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling 2012
Qualitätswein Mosel $13.95 (596601) 10.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Riesling peeks from the glass with delicate aromas of citrus and spice. A gentle, sweet, wave of lemon chiffon pie and Key lime interlaces with floral notes and wisps of spice on the palate. The finish is mid-length with hints of orange zest and notions of ripe yellow plum. Sip on its own or pour with lighter-styled appetizers. The price is right. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: White Wine
Schreckbich Colterenzio Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $18.95 (293399) 13.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Grigio dishes up an alluring, aromatic nose of ripe apple and pear mingling with slate/mineral notes. Lively flavours of peach, apple and lemon yoghurt dance over the palate joined by crisp, refreshing citrus tang on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)
Le Monde Pinot Bianco 2012
DOC Friuli Grave $17.95 (372317) 13.0% alcohol
Get to know and love Pinot Blanc with this fabulous wine. Showcasing mineral, apple and nectarine on the nose, it’s dry, medium bodied and quite silky in texture. The ripe fruit is harmoniously balanced by lively acidity, and there’s an invigorating twang of grapefruit zest on the long, dry finish. Enjoy well chilled in your deck chair. (Susan Desjardins)
Fattoria Il Palagio Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2012
DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano $13.95 (214544) 12.5% alcohol
This classic white wine of Tuscany is great value, offering lovely notes of white flower, citrus, green apple and fresh herbs. Dry, medium bodied, it’s juicy, tangy and refreshing. The pleasant notes of herb and citrus flow across a fine backbone of lively acidity and linger on the finish. Imagine yourself there among the towers sipping a well-chilled glass of this wine. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: Red Wine
Talamonti ‘Tre Saggi’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (204016) 13.5% alcohol
There’s dark coffee, cedar and rich, ripe black berry fruit aromas on the nose of this smooth and mellow, fruit-filled gem. Waves of balanced and beautiful, black briary berry and plummy notes bathe the palate infusing the long, fruity finish decorated with dark bittersweet chocolate and wisps of baking spice. Mid weight and nicely textured throughout, this’ll pour well with barbecued red meats or beer-can chicken—toss a few in the cart. (Vic Harradine)
Asnas Langhe Rosso 2009
DOC Langhe $17.95 (368456) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Petit Verdot, the subtle aromas of this opaque wine tantalize the nose—wild berries, flowers and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannins and fine acidity frame generous ripe red fruit along with notes of spice and the warmth of white pepper. The finish is tangy and long lasting. Serve with barbequed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)
Castello Di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 14.0% alcohol
Leather, mixed spice and a boatload of currant and cherry aromas are precursors to a balanced, silky-smooth wash of ripe dark berry fruit—currant, cherry and mulberry—mingling with milk chocolate and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel, structure and charm. It finishes fruit-laden and pairs exceptionally well with grilled, seasoned steak. Aerate/decant a couple of hours, pouring now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti $15.95 (969469) 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed on the nose, aromas of pipe tobacco, exotic spice and toasty oak abound. Tang-laden sour cherry and racy cranberry streak across the palate with notions of gamy and mocha notes. This is medium weight and delicately textured with a lingering finish and a bitter bite on the dry finish. Pasta in tomato sauce or meat-lovers pizza pairs well. (Vic Harradine)
Riondo ‘Il Cuore Per Martina’ Appassimento 2012
IGT Veneto $14.95 (326595) 14.0% alcohol
Rich luscious cherries dipped in dark chocolate, black bramble berry and cassis coat the palate and dominate the balanced and beautiful finish. This missed an exceptional value wine by only one dollar; don’t miss picking up a few bottles of this wine with its roasted herb, espresso roast, sandalwood nose. It’s medium-bodied, nicely textured and value packed. Pour on its own or with your favourite grilled or roasted, meat or poultry dish. (Vic Harradine)
Valpantena ‘Torre Del Falasco’ Amarone Della Valpolicella 2010
DOCG Amarone Della Valpolicella $44.95 (922161) 15.0% alcohol
This 300-member cooperative turns out a lovely wine here with aromas of raisin, Christmas cake spice and tobacco leaf leading the parade. Following smartly behind are waves of red and black berry fruit, persistent and pure, balanced and concentrated. There’s good depth and plenty of style in this full-bodied, fully textured beauty with its warm, tell-tale Amarone bite on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Conceito ‘Contraste’ 2011
DOC Douro $16.95 (268003) 14.0% alcohol
This is rich and luscious throughout showcasing good grip, deft balance, complexity and a boatload of charm. Aromas of dark berry fruit, pipe tobacco and tarry notes introduce and rich, concentrated river of black currant, ripe mulberry and mocha mingling with excellent moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. It finishes fruit-forward and lip-smacking good. How good is that? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Herdada Do Sobroso ‘Sobro Red’ 2012
Vinho Regional Alentejano $14.95 (306563) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of charred toast and cherry/berry fruit make way for a value-packed red blend of international and autocthonous grape varieties. It showcases sweet, ripe fruit—black cherry and bramble berry—mid weight and a satin smooth mouth feel. There’s soft tannin and a long, dry aftertaste. Pour with grilled gourmet sausage or burgers pulled from the Weber—very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: White Wine
Paco & Lola Albariño 2012
DO Rías Baixas $18.95 (350041) 12.5% alcohol
Zippy, lively and refreshing, this dishes up the perfect sipper or a match to grilled prawns, steamed mussels or breaded, pan-fried calamari rings. Alluring aromas of floral notes, honey and exotic spice lead to a delightful spray of lemony tang, Granny Smith apple and ripe pear. The long finish is crisp and mouth-watering—it’s the next best thing to being on the Costa del Sol. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Abad Dom Bueno Crianza 2006
DO Bierzo $14.95 (244699) 13.6% alcohol
This is highly and heavenly aromatic—a bouquet of cedar, floral notes and spice-infused dark berry fruit waft over the glass of this well-aged Menzia—an indigenous grape. There’s mid weight and nice texture, balance and depth. The red cherry, black currant and ripe mulberry dazzle the senses and dominate the long tangy aftertaste along with wisps of still-resolving tannin—aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving to ameliorate them. (Vic Harradine)
Convento San Francisco 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $21.95 (206409) 14.5% alcohol
There are not many decade-old wines you can purchase at this price to cellar for another 10-15 years. Savory herbs, dill weed, and gamy notes introduce a tangy wash of sour cherry and passion fruit adorned with mixed spice and toasted oak. It’s mid-plus weight with decent mouth feel and a long fruity finish laced with tannin. Drink 2018-2029. (Vic Harradine)
Montebuena ‘Cuvée KPF’ Rioja 2012
DOC Rioja $14.95 (211029) 13.0% alcohol
Opaque purple, this Tempranillo is rich with aromas of ripe berry fruit, spice, vanilla and earth. Dry, medium bodied, the limited oak exposure showcases tangy raspberry, red cherry and blackberry flavours, mingling with spicy, peppery notes, hints of vanilla and a mineral undercurrent. Nicely structured, the tasty seam of acidity shines through the lasting, fruity, slightly peppery finish. Enjoy with grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins)
Viña Real ‘Plata’ Crianza 2009
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (657411) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice box, cedar and berry fruit set the stage for a persistent wash of juicy briary berry, sweet, ripe mulberry and tangy black currant adorned with cherries dipped in dark chocolate. It’s medium bodied with silky smooth texture and lengthy, balanced finish. Pour alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Tamaral ‘Roble’ Tempranillo 2011
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (375766) 14.5% alcohol
This is tangy, fruit-forward and absolutely delicious—there’s good structure, totally integrated oak and great purity of fruit. Mixed spice, dark toast, rich, dark berry fruit and pipe tobacco aromas announce a balanced gusher of bramble berry, mulberry and dark, juicy cherry. It’s mid-plus weight with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste of replayed berry/cherry fruit, espresso roast and black licorice. Good to go now and on to 2018 with grilled red meat—don’t be shy when stocking up. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Rosé Wine
Don Jacobo Rosé 2013
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (374850) 13.5% alcohol
It’s psychedelic-ruby in the bottle and glass, giving off aromas of red cherry, currant and mixed spice. Tang-laden sour cherry, red currant and red grapefruit streak across the palate interwoven with spice and red licorice. It’s light-medium weight with nice texture and a dry, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour with prawn and chorizo paella—Ole! (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
D’Alfonso Del Sordo ‘Guado San Leo’ 2006
IGP Nero Di Troia, Italy $17.95 (379248) 13.5% alcohol
A heavenly scented bouquet of lilac, sandalwood and dark berry fruit introduce a tangy river of black, Bing cherry and ripe mulberry robed in spice and cassis. This showcases purity of fruit, deft balance, structure and a long finish of black plum compote and wisps of red currant and raisin. Hard to find aged red of this calibre and price point. Pick up a handful for drinking now to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
• The following is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores.
Anselmi ‘San Vincenzo’ 2013
IGT Veneto, Italy $16.95 (948158) 12.5% alcohol
Floral notes, honeyed apple and pear introduce a creamy smooth wash of sweet, ripe fruit—apple, peach and honeydew melon—interlaced with lemon citrus and grilled pineapple. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and a long, delicious finish and aftertaste. Perfect sipped on its own, it’s versatile at the table, pairing with sea food, roast chicken or pork. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine earns 5 bonus AirMiles when purchased August 17-September 13, 2014.
Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Lodi, California $18.95 (537597) 13.5% alcohol
Rich and perfumed aromas—dark cherry, espresso roast and notions of sweet vanilla precede palate-bathing ripe black plum and juicy black cherry with a spicy and earthy underpinning. It showcases good weight and is fully textured with balance and delicious moderating acidity. This pours particularly well with grilled steak—good value. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
• The following wine earns 5 bonus AirMiles when purchased July 20 – August 16, 2014.
Cape Heights Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
WO Western Cape, South Africa $11.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of piquant spice, red cherry/berry fruit and graphite roll easily from this South African Cab. There’s a tangy, lively wash of red currant and spiced black plum bathed in smoky, tarry notes on the palate and through the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it’s not at all shy, pairing well with grilled back ribs slathered in smoky barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine earns 5 bonus AirMiles when purchased June 22 - July 19, 2014.
Hahn Pinot Noir 2012
California $18.95 (226555) 14.5% alcohol
Red cherry and savory herb aromas herald a medium-bodied, nicely textured stream of sweet ripe fruit—mulberry, red plum and black currant—mingling with roasted herbs and beetroot. There’s good focus and form with a solid line of wonderful lip-smacking acidity, great balance and plenty of style and charm. It finishes as it entered, delectable and mouth-watering. This is a user-friendly Pinot for sipping or pairing with roast fowl, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine earns 5 bonus AirMiles when purchased August 17 - September 13, 2014.
Laurent Miquel Chardonnay 2012
IGP Pays d’Oc, France $11.95 (157909) 13.0% alcohol
Lively, lovely aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and whiffs of citrus introduce a balanced wash of ripe apple, pear and pineapple. This is crisp, dry and mouth-watering delicious. It’s nicely textured and delivers a lip-smacking finish of lemony tang. Good to sip on its own, it pours and pairs well with lighter-styled appetizers, seafood or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan