We're pleased to announce that the winner of the Riedel "O" Series wine glasses, in the draw for new winecurrent.com subscribers at the 2005 Ottawa Wine & Food Show, was Bev Dankner.

We are including the scoring system explanation and icons at the end of this newsletter.



Cálem Vintage Port 1999
DO Porto $37.95 (677989) 375ml
Big, tangy and delicious, with firm tannins and a lively acidity that lifts and lightens the sweet fruit. It delivers complex flavours with black plum and cherry dominant, accompanied by rich notes of cassis, mint and chocolate. Drink it now with rich cheeses or with dark, slightly bitter chocolate, or cellar it for another five years. (RP)



Miguel Torres Moscatel Oro
Spain $15.95 (642173) 500 ml
A lovely sweet dessert wine that's well balanced, well priced, and well worth trying. Pair it with crème caramel, fruit-based dishes, or with milder blue cheeses. It offers appealing complex aromas and flavours of honey, orange peel, sweet and burnt caramel, with added floral notes on the nose. (RP)



Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs Méthode Cap Classique Brut 1999
WO Robertson $19.95 (907568)
Strong brioche and toasted aromatics emanate from the nose along with a slight nutty nuance. There is a generous attack on the palate with citrus (red grapefruit and lemon) flavours from this medium to full-bodied sparkler. It has a rich and supple texture that carries through seamlessly to the lengthy, cleansing finish. Pair with chicken or veal, now to 2009 (VH)


Bailly-LaPierre Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $17.95 (991562)
As the Vintages catalog says, this makes a very affordable alternative to Champagne, and that's something to think about as the holiday season looms (yes, looms). It's made of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté, and is clean and crisp with a quite elegant mousse and fresh flavours of apple, white peach and grapefruit. It makes an excellent party sparkler, an aperitif, or a partner to varied appetizers. (RP)



Cilento Chardonnay Reserve 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (593913)
This has a lovely nose of Granny Smith apples and tropical (melon and pear) fruit. It is medium to full-bodied with ripe fruit (apples, pears and melon) flavours and a restrained, but pleasant finish that exhibits a wonderfully balanced dab of acidity to help it clean up nicely. Roast savoury chicken would pair well. (VH)


A well-made Gewürztraminer with very good typicity. It's slightly off-dry with an almost creamy texture and exhibits quite pure fruit (spicy peach, nectarine, orange) and a hint of musky spiciness. Pair it with lightly-spiced seafood or chicken dishes. (RP)


Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (566026)
From Winecurrent, December 2004: This has concentrated citrus and some floral aromas. The flavours are a mélange of focused citrus, tempered by characteristic minerality and bracing acidity. You can drink this now or hold it to the end of the decade and beyond. Pair it with grilled trout and slivered almonds. (RP)


Cave Spring CSV Chardonnay 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (529941)
Vanilla, almond and tropical fruit waft from the glass of this classy number. Medium to full-bodied with good concentration, this has lots of oomph that is provided by its spicy green apple and Anjou pear flavours. Gorgeous on its own or the perfect foil to lobster bisque. Drink now to 2009. (VH)



Jackson-Triggs "Proprietors' Grand Reserve" Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.95 (563197)
From Winecurrent, March 2005: Gorgeous, intense dark fruit aromas (plum, berries, black cherry), spice and vanilla. Then plush, concentrated fruit flavours with spice and chocolate notes, firm tannins, good balance and finish. It needs a big red meat dish. (RP)



Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2001
Napa Valley $31.95 (715979)
This is a real classic Cabernet from an excellent vintage in Napa. It's enjoyable now with rare lamb or beef, but better left for three or four years to allow the tannins to soften. There's plenty of fruit to hold the wine up for that long and another five years. It delivers complex dark cherry, plum, and berries, with loads of interesting secondary aromas and flavours. The balance is good now, and it will only improve. Overall, it's very well made and well worth the price. (RP)


St. Francis Merlot 2001
Sonoma County $29.95 (422014)
A lifted nose of black plums and perfumed lilacs form a good segue to this red that has no corners or rough edges. The ripe fruit flavours include plums, spiced sour cherries whilst the long finish has more concentrated and rich bramble berry characteristics. Match to marinated flank steak, done medium. (VH)


Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
California $19.95 (738823)
From Winecurrent, July 2005: A simply delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that will drink beautifully with fairly rich red meat dishes. It has concentrated dark fruit (cherry, plum, berries) with spicy and savoury notes, a rich, layered texture, and great balance. The tannins are firm and drying, but manageable now with rare meat. Liberty School can clearly teach a few other producers a thing or two. (RP)



Norton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2003
Mendoza $17.95 (663120)
A touch of oak plus sweet candied cherries and a dash of spice add up to one gorgeous nose. The flavours are fruit-forward (cassis and raspberry) rich and concentrated while the mouth feel is as smooth as satin. Fine-grained and ripe tannins give it wonderful structure and, along with a dollop of zesty tang, excellent balance. The finish is lengthy and luxurious and the entire experience is very high on the Wow! factor. Rod and I simply loved this. Drink now to 2009 with your very best friends. (VH)



Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Atalayas Vineyard Chardonnay 2004
Casablanca Valley $26.95 (947937)
Vanilla, toasty oak and nutty aromatics blast from the glass of this powerful white. It has oodles of ripe fruit (nectarine, white peach, honey dew melon) all infused with lemon zest and a tangy core that helps it come alive. Full-bodied and full of flavour with a long finish, this begs for chicken Kiev or a generous helping of Fettuccine Alfredo, now to 2008. (VH)



Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Apalta Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Colchagua Valley $31.95 (947929)
This has a lifted nose of sweet (14.5% alc.) spiced cherries and smoke. The huge tannin structure is still wrapped around the core of black cherry fruit flavour. Enjoy the finish; it goes on forever, with tannins and gorgeous cassis flavours competing for the upper hand. Give it a rest - a rest in your cellar and drink from 2008 to 2015 with any manner of grilled rare red meat. (VH)


Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Apalta Vineyard Merlot 2003
Colchagua Valley $31.95 (459206)
So many Chilean Merlots are in what I think of as a Carmenère style: big, meaty, herbal, savoury, with spicy texture, complex layering, and juicy, intense fruit. This is one of them. It makes me wonder if there isn't Carmenère in here (it's not so long ago that much Chilean Merlot was in fact Carmenère) or whether there's been a transfer of style from one variety to the other. Whatever the explanation, this is a terrific Merlot, worth its price, and it's a natural for well-seasoned red meat. (RP)


Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre" Requinoa Vineyard Syrah 2003
Rapel Valley $33.95 (627331)
An involved nose of Bing cherries, plums and toasty oak jumps out from this juicy red. This hedonistic flavour bomb has it all; black spicy plums and raspberries, a zesty smattering of zest and tang and perceptible grip from ripe tannins. Born a crowd pleaser, look for it to develop into an elegant drop from 2008 to 2012 and to pair well with grilled and peppered rack of lamb. (VH)



Peter Lehmann "Mentor" 2000
Barossa Valley $39.95 (724336)
Cabernet Sauvignon stars here, with Malbec playing a fine supporting role and Merlot doing a walk-on. It's a big wine made in honour of a big man. Lehmann is one of a handful of mentors whose personalities and dedication to quality have made the upper tiers of the Australian wine industry what they are. This namesake delivers lush, focused dark fruit, wide-ranging and deep complexity, big, sweet tannins, and fine balance. Put it away for at least three years, then pair it with rare beef or game. (RP)


Leasingham "Classic Clare" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Clare Valley $47.95 (457978)
Freshly pressed ripe black cherries, mint and black licorice aromatics ooze from the glass of this monster. The palate is assaulted with teeth staining, juicy bramble berry fruit intertwined with grainy tannins. The texture is full-bodied and powerful, easily separating the women from the girls. The long involved and concentrated finish begs for 3 to 8 years in the cellar and a grilled rare strip loin of beef. (VH)


Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
South Australia $29.95 (414987)
Spice and cherries form the aromatic profile of this little brother to the Bin 707. Sourced from various SA vineyards, this 100% Cab is characterized by small berries from old vines. The result is a concentration of aromas - eucalyptus and cassis, and flavours - cassis, bramble berry and coffee. A concentrated and involved finish signals this is a ripper. The tannins still have a firm grip, but it will drink beautifully 2008 to 2012. (VH)


Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet -Shiraz 2002
South Australia $35.95 (309625)
Gobs of sweet ripe berry fruit along with nuances of tobacco and mint form the lifted nose. The texture is creamy and smooth while the fruit - predominantly raspberry and plum, meld nicely with ripe tannins. There is a generous helping of juicy zest and tang on the finish. Pour now to 2010 with back straps of lamb with a mint jelly sauce. (VH)


Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Coonawarra $29.95 (589945)
Smoke and oak (20 months of it) roll from the glass along with spicy black currant aromas. The warm and supple mouth feel will become beautifully balanced, by the still grippy tannins and huge ladles of fruit, in about 4 years. The luxuriously long and flavourful finish marks this as a keeper. Drink 2009 to 2015 with a slab of garlic-rubbed bar b qued back ribs. (VH)


Devil's Lair "Fifth Leg Red" 2003
Western Australia $19.95 (512103)
This is a really appealing red with a lot of character. It has a tangy texture that brings out the berry and cherry fruit, a nice layer of spiciness and quite firm tannins. It's serious but has a kind of attractive rusticity, and it's very well priced. Pair it with grilled lamb chops that have marinated in coarsely-chopped garlic. (RP)


Elderton Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley $29.95 (713024)
This is a big, luscious, classic Australian Shiraz. The fruit is the dominant part of the equation, and it's big and pure, with intense berry, plum and cherry. Among the accents, mint, coffee and chocolate stand out. Decidedly fruit-forward, yes, but there's no cloying jamminess here: the balanced acidity keeps it clean and it's a great match with grilled or roasted lamb or game. (RP)


Katnook Estate "Riddoch" Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra $15.95 (940239)
Cedar and spicy black fruit aromatics form the segue to this medium to full-bodied, lip-smacking red. Its concentrated fruit flavours (cherry and red currant) are seamlessly integrated with good grip from the ripe tannins and wonderfully balancing acidity. This is a great food wine, from now to 2010, with any manner of grilled rare, red meat. (VH)



Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Hawkes Bay $16.95 (606830)
An involved nose of white peaches and floral notes waft from the glass of this light to medium-bodied offering. This has more tropical fruit (peaches, pears and a hint of grapefruit) than the herbal and grassy notes we expect to get from these Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs. It finishes off with a cleansing touch of citrus flavours that suggest it would go awfully well with mussels in a white wine sauce. Wisely sealed under screw cap. (VH)


Pencarrow Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Martinborough $18.95 (738997)
Gooseberries, nettles and passion fruit gush from the nose of this medium-bodied white from Martinborough. The attack on the palate is quite powerful with tangy white grapefruit and lemon zest to the fore. Another white that makes certain it will be consistent when you open the bottle as it is under screw cap. Try paired with grilled Tuna drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon juice. (VH)



Oyster Bay Merlot 2004
Hawkes Bay $18.95 (692343)
Take gravelly, free-draining sub-soils and a maritime climate (warm days, cool evenings) and you have the underpinning for an exciting red wine region. Plum, raisin and strawberry compote aromas lead the taster to this medium-bodied, silky smooth offering. The fruit (red currant and cherry) mingles beautifully with the fine-grained tannin and hardly perceptible tang on the finish. This is finely balanced with no rough edges. (VH)


Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2004
Marlborough $25.95 (590414
A good example of what's becoming a characteristic New Zealand style of Pinot Noir: a good core of rich cherry fruit with savoury, herbal texture. It's medium bodied with light tannins and it makes very good partner to grilled lamb. (RP)



Graham Beck "The Joshua" 2002
WO Coastal Region $29.95 (661751)
Made of 93% Shiraz and 7% Viognier, this follows the Northern Rhône formula but is unmistakably New World. It has the most amazing complexity within a lush, fruity texture. I stopped listing descriptors (like huge black fruit, chocolate, coffee, tar, pepper) when the list started to look pretentious. Let's just say that this is delicious. You can drink it now (a thick, medium-rare pepper steak might just do it justice) or put it away for four or five years. (RP)


Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2004
WO Coastal Region $13.95 (595280)
The lifted nose of spice, herbs and black raspberry is a lovely harbinger of what is to follow. Gorgeously sweet (14.5% alc.) ripe and juicy dark fruit flavours (currants, Bing cherries and plums) wash over ripe tannins and balancing acidity. It's all seamlessly woven together right through to the lovely finish. Wine maker, Marc Kent, is being touted as an international star with Syrah. Unbelievably, this is the winery's 'second label'. A steal at this price, it deserves consideration as a multiple purchase. (VH)



Domaine des Granges Mâcon-Chaintré 2004
AOC Mâcon-Chaintré $16.95 (660514)
This Chardonnay is beautifully structured and extremely well priced. Vanilla, toast and nutty notes form the aromatics of this medium to full-bodied beauty. Spicy green apples and a lemony tang are carefully balanced against the creamy smooth mouth feel. It has a gloriously fresh and clean finish that marks it a cut above other Burgundies at this price point. Impress the host with this as a gift wine next time you're invited out. (VH)



Château Roquetaillade La Grange 2001
AOC Graves $20.95 (193102)
This delivers good fruit, good balance, and a good finish: It's not too complex, but it's simply well made (a compliment). Look for medium weight, solid flavours of plum and cherry with hints of spice, and perceptible tannic complexity. It goes very well with a range of lightly-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)


Moulin de Gassac "Elise" Vieilles Vignes 2003
Vin de Pays de l'Hérault $14.95 (662577)
This is the sort of wine I like to drink a bottle of with a well-seasoned piece of red meat, grilled rare to medium-rare, with simple root vegetables and salad. The second bottle goes well with the hard, flavourful, slightly briny cheese that follows. The wine? It's a blend of Syrah and Merlot, juicy, with ripe, sweet fruit. It's a little bit rustic (like the meal) but it's honest and clean and worth every penny. This is one to buy by the half-dozen-it'll be perfect for casual, hearty winter meals. (RP)


Château des Neiges "Cuvée Joseph Torres" 2001
AOC Costières de Nîmes $21.95 (736876)
Michel Gassier is an iconoclastic winemaker who lived and worked in the U.S. before returning to the family winery in southern France. He has views on French wine culture that upset many of his colleagues, but he can be forgiven anything for making wines like this. It's a big, extracted, plush and luscious Syrah. Look for black fruit with complex notes that include licorice, tar, pepper and coffee, all well put together. You could drink this now, but it would be a pity not to give it three or four years to knit together. Then pair it up with a rich red meat dish. (RP)



Bischöflische Weingüter Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $17.95 (657189)
This is extremely rich and on the sweeter side of most other Kabinett-designated wines. The mineral and slate nose does nothing to prepare one for the gusher of flavours (sweet, ripe yellow peach, nectarine and Bosc pear) that fairly explode on the palate. This has 10 years of life remaining. The unctuous lengthy and tangy finish suggests at least 2 ways to match it to food. Try with spicy and creamy dishes - East Indian butter chicken - or with a not-too-sweet fruit dessert. This is a superbly crafted wine at a very good price. (VH)



Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Rheingau $17.95 (657148)
With over 650 years of growing grapes and making wine on this estate you might expect them to produce a beauty, and they did. The aromatics are floral, citrus and steely notes before it opens up to tantalizing flavours of spicy, cinnamon-infused red grapefruit and apple. The off-dry finish is tangy and fruit-forward, as well. Try this with a spicy Asian dish, green curry chicken or Pad Thai. Drinking well now to 2007. (VH)



Masi "Campolongo di Torbe" Amarone 1998
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $79.95 (548677)
As the Vintages catalog says, you get Port-like aromas from this. It has a core of lovely sweet dark fruit (black cherry, prunes, black grapes) with spicy notes and long, rich tannins. It's finely balanced and has a long, spicy fruit finish. Quite fine, and well worth cellaring for five years before drinking. (RP)


Illuminati Montepulciano d'Abruzzo "Riparosso" 2003
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $12.95 (328997)
No Dan Brown mystery here, in spite of the name, as it's a straightforward red and a great buy. This is done in a ready-to-drink style that has hints of an Amarone or Ripasso. There are raisins, currants and tar on the nose whilst the taste profile is ripe mellow fruit flavours of raspberry jam and mocha. Not a lot of acidity so drink up over the next year. Pair with pizza, burgers or any meat dish you prepare at your house on week nights. (VH)


Look for these wines in future Vintages releases



Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Coonawarra, Australia $29.95 ((590471)
From a dry vintage that was harvested late from low-yielding vines, this is has all the earmarks of a fine wine. This inky brooding red gives off a mélange of aromatics that include eucalyptus, toasty oak, mocha and spicy black plums. Winemaker, Wayne Stehbens, focuses on mid-palate flavours and he scores a bulls-eye here with rich and concentrated currant and bramble berry. The finish displays more of the same and it only needs a bit of time to have it all come together. Drink 2009 to 2014. (VH)



Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2003
South Australia $19.95 (468629)
A very smart number with pleasing, powerful notes wrapped in a texture of satin. Aromas of violets and subtle nuances of earthiness waft from this very well-priced red. There is elegance and strength from the currant and plum flavours to the lengthy finish of spicy plum and Montmorency cherry. The round warm finish is lengthy and luxurious. (VH)



L.A. Cetto Petite Syrah 2002
Baja California, Mexico
This will be part of a larger release of Mexican wines in May. It's been in the LCBO before, and returns as the 2002 vintage that delivers big, jammy plum flavours with a sprinkling of peppery spices and a hint of smoke. The tannins are light but nicely drying, and the overall balance is very good. (RP)



Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 2002
Russian River-Sonoma, California $19.95 (954835)
A lifted nose of lilac and sweet raspberry aromatics waft from the glass of this well balanced, medium-bodied red. The rich fruit flavours (blueberry and cranberry) transition seamlessly into the silky smooth tannins and tangy dollop of zest on the finish. Beautifully structured, it would be the perfect foil to a grilled salmon steak. (VH)



Katnook Estate Shiraz Prodigy 2002
Coonawarra, South Australia $70 (approx.)
Coonawarra is better known for Cabernet Sauvignon than Shiraz, which is more often associated with the Barossa Valley. Katnook winemaker Wayne Stehbens says that when the 1998 vintage of this Shiraz won the coveted Jimmy Watson Trophy, "I didn't want to gloat, but I phoned some of my friends in the Barossa to say 'We can make pretty good Shiraz here, too!'" The 2002 vintage is rich, intense and saturated. Expect to savour dark fruit with a sweet core, notes of coffee and chocolate, and ripe, sweet tannins. It's quite exceptional. (RP)



Look for these new wines or new vintages in the LCBO



Gehringer Brothers Classic Riesling 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $12.00 (171488)
Well priced and well made, this is a Riesling in an off-dry style that delivers ripe fruit flavours in the tropical and peach zones, balanced by crisp acidity. It has a clean, fruity, citrus finish and makes a very good companion to sweet, spicy Thai dishes. (RP)



Santa Alicia Carmenère 2003
Maipo Valley $10.15 (414474)
An attractive, quite big-bodied Carmenère at an excellent price. It has concentrated, jammy dark fruit flavours with spicy and mint accents, a tangy texture and good balance. Pair it with well-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)



Martin Steimer Muscat 2002
AOC Alsace $14.35 (649798)
The LCBO's Alsace section is growing slowly, and it's well worth looking at for quality and value. This Muscat offers quite delicious, pungent fruit-rich bitter orange peel, apricot, peach-with nice tension between slight bitterness and rich fruitiness. Pair this with spicy (as in Thai) chicken or pork dishes. (RP)


Château Bonnet 2004
Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux $12.90 (83709)
A consistently reliable and attractive wine, vintage after vintage, and now it's sealed with a screw cap to maintain the freshness. And that's what this Entre-Deux-Mers is all about: freshness. It delivers lovely fresh white-fleshed fruit and citrus, with a crisp texture and clean citrus finish. It's ideal for simply-prepared seafood with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)


Georges Duboeuf Moulin-à-Vent 2003
AOC Moulin-à-Vent $18.65 (154864)
The very hot 2003 summer boosted the fruit and alcohol in many French wines, and created anxiety about the levels of acidity. In some normally cool regions, the reds have more body and fruit intensity, and so it is in Beaujolais, where many 2003s are less typical. This one, from the best-known name in Beaujolais, delivers quite intense dark fruit flavours and is well balanced. Pair it with a grilled veal chop and garlic mash. (RP)



MezzaCorona Fuedo Arancio Syrah 2002
IGT Sicily, Italy $11.95 (621730)
A lovely aromatic nose of cedar, spice and rich black cherries leads the way to a parade of sweet and juicy flavours including currants, bramble berry and coffee. This has distinctive southern Rhone and rustic characteristics and is offered at a price to quality ratio swung heavily in your favour. Try with pizza and friends. (VH)


Pasqua Sagramoso Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2003
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $15.10 (602342)
This is excellent value. It offers great complexity in aromas and flavours-fresh and dried red fruit, with dried meat notes-with a juicy texture. It's dry and fairly tannic, and is balanced toward the acidity that makes it an excellent pairing with osso bucco or rich tomato-based pasta dishes. (RP)



This 100% raspberry, fortified, dessert wine is simply stunning. If they allowed such designations, it would be amongst the Premiers Crus. The lifted nose is a bowl of freshly-picked raspberries while the full-bodied and flavour-packed taste profile is more of the same. It is an amazing accompaniment to rich dark (Belgian) chocolate desserts. (VH)



Nuviana Cabernet Merlot 2003
VdT Valle del Cinco, Spain $8.95 (623181)
Another good value wine for those under-$10 nights. This has quite jammy dark fruit aromas, but the flavours are less intense. They reflect solid, ripe fruit with a little spiciness, and they're accompanied by a dry texture, light tannins, and a warm mouth-feel. This is just the thing for pizza, hamburgers, pasta with meat and tomato sauce, beef stew?. (RP)


Freixenet Carta Nevada Brut
DO Cava, Spain $11.75 (74757)
Versatile and affordable, this is an outstanding selection as an aperitif, a food wine and a special occasion bubbly. A muted nose of toast and citrussy zest leads to a lovely burst of pit fruit flavours (white peach and watermelon) in the mouth. This lighter-styled sparkler has a clean finish that would pair well with seafood or chicken appetizers. Stock up. (VH)


These wines are available only from wineries, through on-line wine delivery companies, or (as indicated) from winery-owned retail stores. You can order directly from wineries using the links at www.winecurrent.com.


Carmela Estates Winery Riesling Reserve 2003
VQA Ontario $14.95
This, from 75% Prince Edward County fruit, illustrates the dazzling potential of this burgeoning wine region. Floral, mineral and honeyed notes form the aromatics while the palate is treated to an abundance of zesty lemon and grapefruit flavours. This has good texture, is well balanced and would be a lovely match poured with grilled fish. Order from the winery at 1-866-578-3445. (VH)


Cave Spring Gewürztraminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula
Look for lovely weight and texture here. It's a classic Gewürztraminer in its flavour profile, has excellent balance with food-favouring crispness, and a quite luscious, mouth-filling texture. Spicy Thai food is the obvious choice, so take a bottle to your nearest Thai BYO. For BYOs near you, check www.bringmywine.ca. (RP)


The Grange of Prince Edward Estate Winery "Trumpour's Mill Assemblage" 2004
VQA Ontario $14.95
This mélange of 100% County fruit (40% Riesling, 30% Pinot Gris, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Melon de Bourgogne, aka Muscadet), blends into a beautifully textured and flavoured white. This off-dry gem exhibits floral and honeyed aromas while the texture is satiny smooth with gushers of tropical fruit and citrus flavours. One would be proud to serve as an aperitif or paired with spicy Asian cuisine. Order from 1-866-792-7712 (VH)


Kacaba Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00
Another Pinot Noir that reinforces Niagara's quite firmly-established claim to be an excellent region for the variety. This delivers solid fruit from front to back, with flavours of black cherry and mulberry and herbal notes. The balance is very good and it finishes well. It's very successful and pairs equally well with mushroom risotto or duck breast with cherry sauce. (RP)


Lailey Vineyards Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00
A finely crafted wine via 10 months in French oak, 8 on the lees and full malolactic. It has a gorgeously plush and creamy mouth feel that coats your mouth with spicy green apple and tropical fruit (white peach and Anjou pear) flavours. From the vanilla and orange blossom nose to the cleansing and spicy finish, this is a winner. Order from the winery via our www.winecurrent.com link. (VH)


Lakeview Cellars Baco Noir 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20
A big wine that demands big food like well-seasoned grilled red meat (like a pepper steak). It's complex, with a base of concentrated black plum and cherry infused with notes of herbs, spices and smoke. The balance is excellent. This is a good price for the quality. (RP)


Peninsula Ridge Vintner's Private Reserve Chardonnay 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $42.00
Made wholly from grapes grown on the winery property, and aged in new French oak, this is elegant and impressive. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas has stretched stylistically from his Chablis roots to the further reaches of southern Burgundy, and produced a wine with aromas and flavours that are rich in both range and quality. They are complemented by gorgeous smooth texture, fine balance, and a long finish. Within the complexity, look for ripe fruit in the apple and pear zones with accents of nuts, caramel, smoke, and a streak of minerality. Pair it with baked firm white fish is a well-herbed cream sauce. (RP)


Reif Meritage 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95
A blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, this is a well-made wine with all components well proportioned. The fruit is solid, through and through, the balance is right, and the tannins make it ready for drinking now or over the next five years. It has an attractive tangy texture and pairs well with well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)


Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
"Triomphe" is Southbrook's equivalent of "Reserve" because, winery owner Bill Redelmeier says, Reserve has become so overused it has lost its meaning. I agree. There are a few wine regions where "Reserve" (and its foreign-language equivalents) are defined in wine law, but none of them is in Canada. This upper-tier Chardonnay was drawn from three vineyards, was barrel-fermented, and was aged 14 months in new French oak. It's a gorgeous expression, with some of the character of Meursault: rich, intense fruit, and a plump, mouth-filling, and creamy texture that approaches the buttery dimension. Complex and well structured, it's a great partner for grilled or baked halibut in a fairly rich cream sauce. Five years old now, it has another five or more left. (RP)


These wines are imported into Ontario for direct sale to restaurants. Individuals can buy them by the case from the agents.


Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 2003
VQA Okanagan Valley $32 (approx.) (585745)
From one of BC's premier producers, this Pinot Gris shows all the best traits of the breed. It's a little quiet on the nose, but the palate opens up into a variety of quite luscious fruit in the apricot-peach zones. There's that touch of spiciness to keep it interesting, fine balance, and a long, clean finish. It's beautiful with lightly-spiced seafood, chicken or pork dishes. Order from MCO Wines at www.mcowines.com. (RP)


Lammershoek Roulette Rouge 2003
WO Swartland, South Africa
A Shiraz/Carignan/Grenache blend from low yields, greater than usual day-night temperature gradients and extraordinary long hours of sunshine produced this stunner. A lifted nose of cedar and berries leads the way to a fruit forward attack of bramble berry, mint and chocolate. The finish is gorgeous, going for 30 or more seconds, with pronounced red licorice, tar and coffee flavours. Order from Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)


Lammershoek "Barrique" Pinotage 2003
WO Coastal Region, South Africa $23.50
I'm not a big fan of many Pinotages: those charry-tarry notes can be overpowering. But here's a Pinotage for the likes of me. It's finely-layered, reasonably complex, and characterized by rich, dark and spicy plum and berry flavours. The balance is very good, and I would happily down a bottle of this with a good cut of red meat, grilled medium-rare. Contact Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)


Viljoensdrift "River Grandeur" Shiraz 2003
WO Robertson, South Africa $24.50
Another terrific Shiraz from South Africa. This is full bodied with concentrated, pungent, dark fruit (berry, cherry) flavours enlivened by peppery spiciness. Well structured and nicely balanced, it's a great partner for well-seasoned grilled lamb. Contact Bokke Inc. at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers,
Vic and Rod