January 28, 2014 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on February 1, 2014 and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675). 


There are NO tickets sold at the door!

The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick
• Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

Highlights in the following newsletter include:

Susan Desjardins - did all the heavy lifting for this release while Vic enjoyed warmer climes—that would allow him to be just about anywhere in the world..., but Canada!

• Exceptional value wines – only four of the 33 wines sipped, spat and reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines—one sparkling, two whites and a red—all in the Vintages Release and identified by the above icon. What are the quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com, click on ‘Rating System’.
• Susan Selects – Under France: White Wine, La Haute Févrie ‘Les Fils des Gras Moutons’ Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 4 stars @ $14.95; under Spain: White Wine, Alvarez de Toledo Godello 2010 4 stars @ $14.95; and under Australia: Red Wine – all four wines reviewed with all under $20.
• 5-star wines – only one rang the 5-star bell. Under Fortified Wine: Port you’ll find Bulas Vintage Port 2009 @ $49.95

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 1, 2014

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Bulas Vintage Port 2009 

DO Porto, Douro, Portugal $49.95 (363119) 20% alcohol

There are kirsch liqueur, cherry cordial and exotic spice aromas on the nose providing segue to an absolute divine gusher of concentrated, sweet black cherry, ripe mulberry and cassis coating the palate, infusing the lengthy finish. It’s full bodied, fully textured and loaded down with spice-laden flavour, perceptible tannin, structure and complexity. Drinking well 2013 – 2025. (Vic Harradine)


Cálem ‘Lágrima’ White Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (912568) 19.6% alcohol
A delicate copper tone, this delightful white Port offers beguiling aromas and flavours of candied citrus peel, dried apricot, preserved peach and wildflower honey. It’s smooth, satiny and lush with a long warm finish. A great dessert wine to serve with an orange chiffon cake, it also makes a lovely light aperitif with tonic and a twist of lemon. (Susan Desjardins)

Icewine

Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 (672402) 200ml 9.5% alcohol
Choose this unique deep pink gem for your Valentine! Alluring aromas of delicately scented flowers, strawberry-rhubarb jam and mixed-fruit marmalade waft from the glass. Viscous and luscious, offering flavours of red berries along with sweet citrus, the wine finds balance with a fine yet defining acidity, the honeyed notes of red fruit persisting on the long-lasting finish. Chocolate, anyone? (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Azahara Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir
Victoria $17.95 (357483) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a lovely wine from down under, fair dinkum. The fine mousse explodes in the glass carrying lovely aromas of citrus, orchard and stone fruit to the nose. It’s creamy and generous on the palate, the crisp texture mirroring flavours of citrus and green apple. With defining acidity, intensity of flavour and a persistent mousse, this is a finely crafted sparkler—sip and celebrate the find. (Susan Desjardins)


See Ya Later Ranch Brut Non-vintage 

VQA Okanagan Valley $20.95 (271049) 12.5% alcohol 

Here’s good value from the south-central Okanagan, a well-crafted sparkler produced using the traditional method. Dry and medium bodied, it’s fresh with aromas of grilled grapefruit, floral notes and a hint of nut. The nutty note replays on the dry, medium-bodied palate, fine mousse offering a clean fresh texture and carrying attractive flavours of citrus and orchard fruit through an extended, lively finish. Pick up a few bottles to celebrate spring! (Susan Desjardins)


Teresina Moscato d’Asti 2012
DOCG Moscato d’Asti $17.95 (365213) 5.0% alcohol
Pale white/gold and delicate, this Moscato proffers lovely floral aromas mingling with notes of stone fruit and tangerine. Fresh and fruity, the texture is fine, the acidity gentle, and the sweet fruit dominant through the finish. Enjoy with shortbread cookies. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol 

Mid weight with an incredibly long aftertaste, this is charming, complex and made for Riesling aficionados and ordinary wine lovers like you and me. Aromas of floral notes, citrus, notions of minerality and hints of honey are precursor to a dazzling river of pungent, juicy lemon curd, blood orange and key lime pie streaking over the palate. It’s dripping with riveting tang and lip-smacking acidity that’s balanced beautifully with ripe pear, green apple and yellow plum. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Kew Vineyards ‘Soldier’s Grant’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (367318) 13.5% alcohol
This Cabernet blend offers intriguing aromas of herbs, red fruit, spice and a hint of smoke. It’s well structured, medium bodied and dry, showcasing fresh acidity, clean ripe fruit and notes of spice and toast through a long dry finish. Well crafted and a good choice for chicken thighs simmered with dumplings. (Susan Desjardins)


Oxley Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Ontario $19.15 (368837) 13.0% alcohol
Don’t let the semi-transparent nature of this wine deceive you – it’s packed with flavour. Sweet ripe fruit, roasted red pepper, toast and vanilla are evident on the nose and palate. It’s dry, mid-weight, juicy and fruity, with a subtle underlying structure providing good balance. There’s a hint of chocolate on the flavourful, fresh finish. Enjoy on its own, or serve with pork tenderloin or veal shank. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Irony Chardonnay 2011 

Napa Valley $19.95 (027409) 14.5% alcohol 

Alluring aromas of sweet vanilla, baking spice and hazelnut herald a rich and lovely wash of defined, complex flavours and texture—sweet pit fruit, tropical fruit and lemony tang mingle with wisps of caramel and mixed spice. It’s mid-full weight with a satin smooth mouth feel and lingering finish that’s fruity, nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Jekel Pinot Noir 2011
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (27268) 14.1% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this Pinot offers appealing floral and cherry/berry aromas, vanilla and spice. Black cherry and ripe strawberry flavours bathe the dry, medium bodied palate, well-integrated oak offering spice and toast, the fine tannins and lively acidity creating a firm yet fine frame. Nicely balanced and very approachable, the wine has a persistent fruity finish. Enjoy a sip on its own as you grill salmon to savor with it. (Susan Desjardins)


Liberty School Zinfandel 2010 

California $18.95 (041095) 13.5% alcohol 

Savoury roasted herbs and dark cherry/berry aromas presage juicy, tangy flavours of red cherry, black plum compote and dried currant wreathed in good acidity and notions of dill weed. It’s medium weight with a lengthy, racy finish redolent of black berry pie. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Alamos Chardonnay 2012 

Mendoza $13.95 (801571) 13.5% alcohol 

Sweet vanilla and peach/nectarine aromas herald a full-bodied, creamy smooth, fully textured river of Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and spice interlaced with toasty bits and balancing citrus acidity. It finishes in a blaze of nicely balanced fruit and acidity. Pour on its own as an aperitif or with roast veal or chicken. (Vic Harradine

Australia: White Wine

McWilliam’s ‘Mount Pleasant Elizabeth’ Semillon 2006
Hunter Valley $19.95 (724492) 10.5% alcohol
The minerality leaps from the glass, married to citrus, green apple and sweet woodruff aromas. Dry, mid-weight and pleasantly fresh, the flavours are elusive and intriguing, citrus mingling with hints of wet stone and smoke. The finish is long, crisp and refreshing. Enjoy with seafood or grilled halibut. (Susan Desjardins)


Mountadam Estate Chardonnay 2009 

High Eden, Eden Valley, South Australia $24.95 (333211) 14.0% alcohol 

This is stylish and structured, approaching sensational. Expressive aromas of mocha, cinnamon and wood smoke abound. There’s a truckload of fruit on the palate with apple, pear and blood orange mixing it up with grilled pineapple, grapefruit and honeydew melon in the mix. The lingering finish is clean and stylish with orchard fruit, spice and mouth-watering citrus tang. (Vic Harradine)


Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Riesling 2012
Western Australia $17.95 (357426) 11.9% alcohol
Produced from a blend of fruit grown largely in Australia’s cooler ‘Great Southern’ region, this wine hits the mark as a crisp, dry Riesling. Light-medium bodied, it boasts lifted aromatics – floral, mineral, orchard fruit and lemon-lime. The citrus shines through on the palate, a subtle roundness to the fruit effectively married to a tangy, lively seam of acidity. A lengthy, refreshing finish makes this a versatile wine – sip on its own or pair with charcuterie, cheeses, salads or light meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Château Tanunda ‘Grand Barossa’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Barossa $19.95 (357517) 14.0% alcohol
There’s complexity in the aromas of this dry, full-bodied red—cassis, cedar, mint, earth, spice and herbs. With a lively texture and fine yet perceptible tannins, this nicely balanced gem has the structure to pair with red meat and to cellar further. Ripe fruit mingles with warm spice and notes of white pepper, hints of chocolate and toast linger on the long-lasting, warm finish. Enjoy with prime rib or rack of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)



Dandelion ‘Lioness of McLaren Vale’ Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale $19.95 (357475) 14.5% alcohol
Dense and dark, this offers lifted aromas of ripe, dark fruit, licorice, floral notes, exotic spice and a whiff of vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, there’s rich ripe fruit to the fore, hints of dark chocolate and a peppery note. The firm yet restrained underlying structure subtly frames and balances the ripe fruit. The peppery notes persist through the warm, fruity finish. Enjoy with barbequed ribs. (Susan Desjardins)


Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Pinot Noir 2012
Yarra Valley $18.95 (357491) 13.5% alcohol
This finely crafted Pinot is good value and nicely balanced. Rich, ripe fruit aromas, notes of sweet spice and vanilla lift from the glass. A portion was fermented with grape stalks, assuring a fine tannin structure that frames the ripe fruit. Flavours of red and black cherries and a notion of tangy strawberry pie wash across the palate while well-integrated oak offers a touch of spiced vanilla. Enjoy with a grilled beef salad. Chris Hancock, from Robert Oatley winery, suggests this wine with the wonderful cuisine from the popular Royal Thai Restaurant while in Ottawa. (Susan Desjardins)


Schild Estate ‘Old Vine GMS’ Grenache/Mourvèdre/Shiraz 2011
Barossa $19.95 (108183) 14.5% alcohol
Garnet, semi-transparent, this dry, medium-full bodied red packs a punch of fruity flavour. On the nose, there’s enticing complexity—earth, mineral, smoke, floral notes plus red and black fruit. It’s deeply flavoured and rich on the palate, nicely balanced by a well-defined, subtle underlying structure. Sweet spice and smoky, toasty oak floats through the long tasty finish. Enjoy this classic Rhône style blend with cassoulet or chicken thighs in a red wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

Grand Vin de Glenelly Red 2008
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (360339) 14.0% alcohol
Principally Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by Petit Verdot and Merlot, this opaque blend is rich with black berry and plum fruit, notes of cedar, vanilla, red rose and sweet herbs. Dry and medium-full bodied, the underlying structure nicely balances delicious red and black berry flavours garnished with a dash of spice, toast and the tang of black pepper swelling throughout the long, warm finish. Enjoy with grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

La Haute Févrie ‘Les Fils des Gras Moutons’ Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2012
AOC Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine $14.95 (363150) 12.0% alcohol
Bone dry, offering lifted aromas of citrus, yellow plum, pear, white flowers and herbs, this crisp, slightly petulant wine sings on the palate. Racy, nervy acidity carries a wave of tangy citrus and a touch of mineral across the palate through a mouthwateringly clean, long-lasting finish. A good match for seafood or pan-fried cod. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château de Lafaurie-Monbadon 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Castillon $15.95 (140012) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s exceptional value and balance in a very nice package. Quite viscous, reflecting the high alcohol, this fine blend offers warm aromas of cassis, vanilla, cedar, spice and sweet herbs lifting from the glass. The generous fruit flavours replay, framed by perceptible tannin and fresh acidity, garnished with notes of spice and vanilla, dry and mid-full bodied. Showcasing firm structure and a lasting dry finish, this is a wine for rich meat dishes and for cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Haut Methée 2009
AOC Bordeaux $15.95 (356592) 13.0% alcohol
This is a great value red, displaying intriguing perfumed floral, spice and fine herb notes, berries, black cherry and plum. Dry and medium weight, the structure is subtly defined, clean acidity and well-integrated oak underpinning fresh fruit flavours. Finishing dry and spicy, this is a fine wine to enjoy with a rich winter stew. (Susan Desjardins)


Cave de Rasteau ‘Ortas Prestige’ Rasteau 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (985929) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from old vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this deep ruby blend entices with lifted aromas of ripe field berries, vanilla, sweet spice, garrigue and leather. Medium-full bodied and dry, it’s all about ripe fruit, tannin and texture. The oak is subtle, the acidity a fine supporting actor, the attractive notes of spice and white pepper lifting the lively finish. Enjoy with pork roast or beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)


Les Vignerons du Castellas ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Signargues Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Signargues $16.95 (34116) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of 40-70 year-old vines, this award-winning beauty integrates Carignan with Grenache and Syrah. There’s a wealth of aromas—cherry/berry, earth and mineral, spice, sweet herbs and a hint of licorice. Dry and on the full side of mid-weight, it’s firmly structured with perceptible tannin and lively acidity. Bright, juicy fruit—raspberry, cherry and currant—mingles with toasty oak and hints of vanilla, spice and pepper, an earthy undercurrent running throughout. With good structure and complexity, this wine is excellent value and a great food wine for meat-based pasta or cassoulet. (Susan Desjardins)


Montirius ‘Garrigues’ Vacqueyras 2011
AOC Vacqueyras $27.95 (363135) 14.0% alcohol
From a long-established organic and biodynamic estate, this lovely blend of Grenache and Syrah, aged in concrete tanks, is complex and well structured. On the nose, ripe red and black berry fruit tantalizes, floral notes, vanilla and sweet dried herbs intermingling. It displays a clean, firm structure, dry and medium-full bodied, alongside fresh texture and well-defined ripe berry fruit with a touch of red licorice and sweet spice. The extended finish is flavourful and well framed. Enjoy with steak au poivre or beef braised in red wine. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: White Wine

Alvarez de Toledo Godello 2010 

DO Bierzo $14.95 (308049) 12.4% alcohol 

Godello, an indigenous Spanish grape grown successfully in Valdeorras and Bierzo, is now turning heads. From an estate established in the XVth century, this straw-hued wine offers richness and complexity of aromas and flavours. On the nose, there’s a touch of slate, apple, ripe citrus and floral notes. Dry, mid-weight, it beguiles with a round, ripe texture, lightly spiced peach and citrus riding a wave of fresh acidity through a flavourful, fruity finish. Enjoy now and store a few bottles for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Chardonnay 2012
Western Australia $17.95 (350900) 12.5% alcohol
Displaying an alluring fruity nose with hints of spice and vanilla, this is a well-crafted, nicely balanced Chardonnay. Dry, medium bodied, the winemaker’s gentle hand with seasoned French oak creates the stage for lovely flavours of citrus, stone and orchard fruit. Creamy yet fresh, the texture is almost spritzy, the clean acidity offering a lively, tangy finish. This is excellent value; enjoy with roast pork and apple sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

New in LCBO Portfolio

Tic Tok ‘Pocketwatch’ Chardonnay 2012
New South Wales $15.95 (187104) 13.0% alcohol
This approachable, easy-drinking mid-weight wine offers aromas of tropical fruit, ripe pear, and notes of toast, spice and vanilla on the nose. Replaying on the palate, the fruit mingles with notes of toasted nut and spice. Attractively round and creamy, yet fresh, this wine is a good choice for seafood pasta in cream sauce or white meat. (Susan Desjardins)


Tic Tok ‘Pocketwatch’ Shiraz 2012
New South Wales $15.95 (187187) 14.0% alcohol
Appealing aromas of black fruit, dark berries, licorice and spiced vanilla drift from this fruit-forward, medium-full bodied Shiraz. Warm, ripe fruit—blackberry, currant and black raspberry—washes across the palate, paired with toasty oak and lifted by spicy, peppery notes that linger on the finish. Enjoy with lamb or zesty, pork back ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Kacaba ‘Terrace Vineyard’ Syrah 2011
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Aged in French and American oak, this violet-hued cool-climate Syrah offers aromas of fresh blueberry, blackberry, mineral, spice and dried herbs. Dry, medium bodied, somewhat austere, the firm structure of youthful tannins and lively acidity frames flavours of cherry, pomegranate and blackberry. Herbal notes, pepper and toast mingle through the long, dry finish. Decant and serve with meat-based pasta or lamb tagine. Order by the case directly from Kacaba Vineyards or toll free 1-866-Kacaba-8. (Susan Desjardins)


Kacaba ‘Proprietor’s Select’ Syrah 2011
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Crafted from hand-harvested fruit from the Main block, barrel-aged 12 months in premium oak, this opaque Syrah offers a subtle nose of earth, spice, pepper, cassis, black cherry and plum. Mid-weight and dry, the velvety mouth feel is complemented by good underlying structure, well-integrated oak and tasty fruit—raspberry and black cherry. Delicate notes of exotic spice and tangy pepper linger on the long, flavourful finish. Produced in very limited quantities, this wine is pending release and can be ordered by the case via Kacaba Vineyards or toll free 1-866-Kacaba-8. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan