January 16, 2014 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on February 1, 2014 and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

There are NO tickets sold at the door!

The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick
• Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

January 4 and January 18 Vintages Release wines reviewed in this newsletter. The January 4 wines were offered for tasting in Ottawa after the release date. You should expect some to be in short supply or no longer available. January 18 wines to be released this Saturday .

Highlights in the following newsletter include:

• Exceptional value wines – only four of the 67 wines sipped, spat and reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines, identified by the above icon. What are the quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com and click on ‘Rating System’.
• Susan’s Selection – In the January 18 release under Ontario: White Wine – Sue-Ann Staff ‘Grace’s Dry’ Riesling 2011 4½ stars @ $18.95
• Vic’s Picks – In the January 4 release under Portugal: Red Wine - Quinta das Camélias ‘Reserva’ Dão 2010 4 stars @ $14.95: In the January 18 release under Argentina: Red Wine - Passionate Wines ‘Montesco’ Bonarda 2010 4½ stars @ $19.95; In the January 18 release under Spain: Red Wine - Planets de Prior Pons 2009 4½ stars @ $24.95
• 5-star wines – two rang the 5-star bell. In the January 4 release under Private Order – Dessert Wine there’s the Corte Fornaledo Recioto della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2009 500 ml @ $32.95 and in the January 18 release under Okanagan Valley: White Wine the Dirty Laundry ‘Not So Knotty’ Chardonnay 2012 @ $26.95

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: January 4, 2014

Ontario: White Wine

Flat Rock Riesling 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (043281) 11.0% alcohol 

Piquant spice and mineral/slate interweaving with buckwheat honey and key lime aromas abound. There’s a deftly balanced, off-dry, gloriously gulp-able river of Meyer lemon and key lime balanced off with riper, sweeter grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling. This sweet and tang, yin and yang, set up wonderful pairings with spicy Asian cuisine enhanced by its good weight and generous texture. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

De Sousa ‘Seasons Reserve’ Meritage 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (315911) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of sandalwood and floral notes introduce this mid-weight, nicely textured red blend. It bathes the palate with a balanced stream of ripe berry fruit—black currant and mulberry—interweaving with racy, red cherry. There’s a solid tannin underpinning easily handled with a two-hour aeration/decant. It’s very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire ‘Guilty Men’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (186247) 13.0% alcohol
Tobacco, toasty oak and mocha aromas provide segue for ripe red cherry and pomegranate wash that’s medium bodied with a creamy, smooth mouth feel. It finishes with a dry aftertaste streaked with good acidity and a lick of still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce and grilled Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Atalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $36.95 (906198) 14.5% alcohol
An amalgam of aromas—earthy notes, pipe tobacco and spearmint—herald a glorious gusher of ripe, dark berry fruit and juicy, black Bing cherry playing off racy, sour cherry and perceptible tannin. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks after 2015 and pair with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Ca’ Momi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $21.95 (315002) 13.9% alcohol
This is well structured, deftly balanced, excellent value and lip-smacking good. A rich, involved nose of black currant, espresso roast and mint presage a full-bodied, generously textured river of ripe black currant and mulberry interweaving with kirsch liqueur. The lip-smacking finish and aftertaste layer on wisps of moderating acidity. Pour alongside seasoned grilled ribs slathered with barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Howling Moon ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2009
Lodi $18.95 (057356) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark chocolate dominate the nose. It’s medium-full weight with a satin-smooth texture, balanced and structured throughout. Ripe, black juicy cherry dipped in chocolate interlace with espresso roast wash over the palate infusing the long finish. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs mopped in spicy, barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2012
Monterey $19.95 (353227) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of toasty oak, mocha, red and black berry fruit precede a tangy, juicy line of racy acidity melding nicely with black plum compote, kirsch liqueur and ripe black cherry on the palate. It’s medium-bodied with good texture and finishes in a balanced wash of fruit-driven flavours. This pours well with slow-roast pork with parsnip, rutabaga and carrot. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Magpie Estate ‘The Call Bag’ 2009
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (203067) 14.0% alcohol
There are oodles of red cherry, plum and toasty notes on the nose followed by palate-coating flavours of tangy red currant, dark berry fruit and ripe cherry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, balanced and beautiful. This is gorgeous throughout with each sip better than the previous on the lingering finish—very good wine and very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield Shiraz 2010 

Clare Valley, South Australia $17.00 (943787) 14.0% alcohol 

Wakefield—named Taylors in Australia—is one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’; producing wine with sense of place. Roasted herbs, tarry notes, black pepper and toasty/oaky notes on the nose herald a lip-smacking, beautifully textured wash of ripe, sweet mulberry and juicy, black cherry. Mid-full weight, über smooth and amiable on the palate, it sports a long, mellow, balanced finish adorned with mocha, dark fruit and streaks of oaky tones. Each sip is as good or better than the previous—pick up a few, there’s lots of life left. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Clifford Bay Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (309500) 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs and spice mingle with aromas of slate and wisps of earthy notes on the nose. Palate-bathing flavours of black and red currant ride a streak of lip-smacking acidity. Mid weight with decent texture, the lengthy aftertaste is racy, tangy, dry and crisp. Pour with prawn and sausage paella. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

The Ruins Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
WO Eilandia, Robertson $13.95 (018739) 13.5% alcohol
Red berry fruit garnished with tarry bits and smoky oak dominate the nose on this racy red blend. It streaks across the palate on a bed of tangy acidity wreathed in sour cherry and red currant flavour. It’s medium-plus bodied with a dry, crisp finish and aftertaste. This is poured well with meat-laden pizza, lasagne or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

La Pieve Barolo 2009
DOCG Piedmont $29.95 (213132) 15.0% alcohol
Aromas of lilac, charred toast and dark cherry leap from this full-bodied, cellar dweller. Flavours of baking spice, black currant and cherry interweave with tobacco and espresso roast on the palate infusing the long finish and aftertaste along with a solid lick of grainy tannin. Pour 2016 to 2023 with osso bucco—it’ll certainly reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)


I Castei ‘Campo Casalin’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $47.95 (946558) 15.5% alcohol
I Castei is a top-drawer producer of Amarone seldom failing to deliver great value—no exception here. A lively bouquet of exotic spice, sandalwood, tobacco and über-ripe fruit provide segue to full-bodied, creamy smooth waves of ripe berry fruit, black plum compote and spice-infused sour cherry. The lingering aftertaste is fruit driven and wreathed in espresso roast and dark plum jam. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta das Camélias ‘Reserva’ Dão 2010 

DOC Dão, Portugal $14.95 (305334) 13.5% alcohol 

This offers excellent value. Rich, dark berry fruit, wood smoke and menthol herald a deep, concentrated gusher of richly flavoured dark, juicy cherry and tangy bramble berry coating the palate persisting through the rich, balanced aftertaste. There’s structure, complexity and no shortage of flavour. Wisps of tannin suggest a two-hour aeration/decant or a further six months before opening. It pairs well with grilled ribs, steak or a hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

San José de Aguarón ‘Monasterio de Las Viñas’ Reserva 2006 

DO Cariñena $14.95 (166579) 13.0% alcohol 

Floral notes, red cherry and incense herald a lively and lovely river of red currant mingling with kirsch liqueur and spice. Value-packed, balanced and charming, it’s mid weight, nicely textured and blessed with a lingering, smoke-infused, berry fruit aftertaste. Pour alongside chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following wine by the case delivered to your home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) from Kylix Wines via phone in the GTA (905) 882-1999 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..


Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Happy Canyon, Santa Barbara, California $42.95 15.1% alcohol
Concentrated, rich and robust throughout, alluring aromas of tobacco, dark berry fruit and sandalwood herald a delicious, balanced and structured gusher of dark, juicy cherry and bramble berry garnished with mocha and oodles of charm. Mid-full bodied and generously textured, the lingering finish offers good length, ripe dark fruit and lip-smacking tang. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Dessert Wine

Corte Fornaledo Recioto della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2009
DOC Recioto della Valpolicella, Italy $32.95 500 mL 14.5% alcohol
If you’ve a sweet tooth, this can’t be missed. From air-dried, red grapes—40% Corvina Veronese, 40% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella and 5% ‘others’—this fabulous dessert wine is a stunning partner to chocolate desserts. Aromas of dark red cherry dipped in dark chocolate and wisps of cassis presage a sweet river of cherry and black currant mingling with an incredible coating of tiramisu on the palate then infusing the lingering, delectable finish. (Vic Harradine)

White Wine

il Canovino ‘Quarto Vecchio’ Pinot Grigio 2012 

IGT Venezie, Italy $19.95 12.0% alcohol
Floral aromas mingle with minerality and wisps of honey providing segue for a creamy-smooth river of tangy citrus interwoven with lemongrass and white grapefruit flavours. It’s nicely textured with good weight and a crisp, refreshing finish. This pours well with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)


il Canovino ‘Quarto Vecchio’ Soave ‘Classico’ 2012 

DOC Soave, Italy $23.50 13.0% alcohol
Loads of floral, honey and spice aromas on the nose provide segue for a light-medium bodied river of juicy tang—lemony citrus and pineapple mingling with key lime and grapefruit pith. Nicely textured, balanced and lively, the crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste is racy and lip-smacking good. This goes well with pan-seared prawns or grilled fish. (Vic Harradine)


Mauro Guicheney ‘Sainte Frivole’ 2011
AOC Côtes de Duras, France $16.50 14.5% alcohol
A lovely blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, look for a lively bouquet of piquant spice, lemongrass and wisps of mango and tangerine. Mellow and smooth on the palate with good mouth feel, there’s a palate-bathing wash of white peach, apple and good moderating tang that makes its way to the mid-length finish. It’s a lovely aperitif with enough oomph and structure to pair well with lemon chicken or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)


Vinha dos Ingleses ‘Espadeiro’ Vinho Verde Non-vintage 

DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $9.95 10.5% alcohol
Aromas of candy floss and bubble gum portend something out of the ordinary. Lightly hued a soft pink, this is made from Espadeiro, an indigenous-to-Portugual red grape—most Vinho Verde is made from white grapes. A spritzy wash of cherry/berry and a splash of kirsch liqueur round out the palate flavours of this light-on-its-feet beauty. No need to ponder or discuss its virtues, wash down pan-seared salmon or a spicy Asian dish with a lo-alcohol, glass or two—very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Lauriga ‘Soleil Blanc’ 2011
IGP Pay d’Oc, France $17.95 14.5% alcohol
This 100% Grenache Blanc dazzles with heady aromas of ripe apple, orange blossom and wisps of exotic spice, red licorice and sandalwood. A heavenly textured wash of lime-soaked guava, apple and marzipan bathe the palate mingling with peel marmalade. It’s mid weight with a lengthy finish and aftertaste. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it also marries well with roast pork stuffed with desiccated fruit, and whiskey cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

il Canovino ‘Quarto Vecchio’ Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2008 

DOC Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $54.95 15.0% alcohol
This is mid-full bodied and nicely textured, oozing with character and charm—it opens with alluring aromas of fig, dark raisin and pipe tobacco. It’s a gorgeously structured, deftly balanced gem. A river of palate-coating dark cherry and briary berry interweave with spice and bittersweet chocolate infusing the rich, luscious finish and aftertaste. Give it a go with osso bucco or grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)


Corte Fornaledo Valpolicella ‘Classico Superiore’ 2009
DOC Valpolicella, Italy $22.95 13.5% alcohol
Oodles of ripe fruit balanced with good moderating acidity follow a delightful nose of earthy tones, dark berry fruit and spiced black plum. A balanced, beautiful river of red and black cherry interlaced with red and black currant bathe the palate infusing the lengthy dry, fruit-filled finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and an aftertaste of dark berry and juicy black cherry. Pour alongside beef and cheese manicotti. (Vic Harradine)


Corte Fornaledo Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2009
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $54.95 16.0% alcohol
This is deep-purple hued and bursting with heady aromas—black licorice, dried berry fruit and spice cake stream from the glass. Ripe, black Bing cherry and notions of red currant interweave with raisined berry fruit on the palate with medium weight and generous texture. It finishes lengthy and balanced with good fruit, depth and a lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s a great pairing with shards of Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)


Lauriga ‘Le Cadet’ 2012
AOP Côtes du Roussillon, France $12.95 14.5% alcohol
This delightful red blend of 60% Syrah with Carignan and Grenache opens with aromas of toasty notes and mixed field berry fruit. There’s a racy river of red and black berry tang interwoven with spice and wisps of red cherry and a solid tannin underpinning. It’s medium bodied with good texture and finishes in a blaze of red currant and notions of cranberry. A two-hour aeration/decant will tame the tannin along with a seasoned, grilled beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)


Chateau Lauriga ‘Cuvée Bastien’ 2011
AOP Côtes du Roussillon, France $18.50 14.5% alcohol
A delectable red blend, primarily hand-harvested 70% Syrah with Carignan and Grenache, it dishes up a nose of heady black, juicy cherry and spice with wisps of aromatic bitters. Rich, racy flavours of red currant, tangy sour cherry and spice-laden black plum are joined by a lick of still-resolving tannin on the palate and dry, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Two years of further cellaring will certainly reward with a great-value red. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 18, 2014

Spirits - Scotch

Hart Brothers ‘Finest Collection’ 14 Years Old Single Malt 1998
Clynelish Distillery, Scotland $119.95 (354050) 700 mL 46.0% alcohol
In a fabled distillery just north of Inverness, this fabulous, Single Malt was born. Alluring aromas of floral notes, spun sugar and iodine precede an intense, mouth-coating wash of barley sugar and orange peel with wisps of beeswax and caramel. The monumental finish is warm, smooth and deftly balanced with notions of saline on the aftertaste—it was quite delicious and difficult to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Spirits - Armagnac

De Montal ‘XO’ Bas-Armagnac
AOC Armagnac, France $88.95 (354027) 700 mL 40.0% alcohol
De Montal Armagnac is fashioned from a blend of wine grapes, including Folle Blanche, Baco, Ugni Blanc and Colombard, single distilled, aged in 400-litre barrels hewn from local French oak. It’s rich, sensuous and powerful revealing lifted aromas and complex flavours—dried fruit, apricot, preserved orchard fruit, vanilla, candied peel and crème brulée. Spicy, smoky heat caresses the palate mellowing into a luscious, round, weighty, persistent finish. Sip on a cold winter’s night or savour with a Belgian chocolate biscuit. (Susan Desjardins)

Cider

St-Nicolas ‘Brut Crackling’ Cider
Quebec $17.95 (277442) 8.5% alcohol
There are dazzling aromas and flavours, primarily crisp green apple and spice, carried along on a river of glorious bubbles and charm. It’s crisp and refreshing throughout with lo-alcohol to boot. It’s quite versatile: it can be sipped on its own, paired with fruit dessert, especially apple, or enjoyed with soda crackers and chards of well-aged cheddar. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Blue Mountain Brut

Okanagan Valley $27.95 (206326) 12.5% alcohol

Blue Mountain is well known for its quality, both in sparkling wines and Pinot Noir. Produced in the traditional method and aged 24 months on the lees, this dry, pale-gold blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris displays alluring aromas of butter biscuit, pear, ripe apple and citrus. The refreshing mousse has a fine, creamy texture, while the palate offers vivid citrus and light tree-fruit flavours. Light-medium bodied, the wine is in fine balance with a crisp, lengthy aftertaste. With so few wines from the Okanagan finding their way here, you won’t want to miss this one. (Susan Desjardins)


Reyes d’Aragon ‘Brut Reserva’ Cava 2010
DO Spain $14.95 (194803) 11.5% alcohol
This Spanish bubbly was fashioned from 70% Macabeo and 30% Chardonnay grapes. Orchard fruit and buttered toast on the nose, it dishes up a bracing line of acidity—lemon citrus and ruby red grapefruit—on the palate and racy finish. Good to go now paired with grilled fish or seafood, especially breaded, pan-seared calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

The following Calamus wine is listed in the Vintages catalogue as 2012. The wine offered for tasting in Ottawa when winecurrent attended was the 2011 Vintage, reviewed below.


Calamus Unoaked Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $ 14.95 (210062)
This opens with a delicate nose of orchard fruit and floral notes followed by a spice-driven wash of yellow peach, melon and ripe, juicy orchard fruit. It’s light on its feet and nicely textured with good balance and lip-smacking finish and aftertaste of lemon acidity and crisp, green apple. There’s very good value to be had here. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (453472) 12.5% alcohol
Intense, lively aromas of rosewater and spice-infused lychee nut mingle with fruit peel and tangy blood orange on the palate, replaying on the finish alongside exotic spice and gorgeous tang. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and plenty of charm. This is well-made Gewurzt offering good value. Pour with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai or butter chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Sue-Ann Staff ‘Grace’s Dry’ Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (367086) 11.0% alcohol 

Sue-Ann has a great play on words here—it’s named after her great grandmother, raising her children during prohibition; Grace’s household was ‘dry’! And so is the wine, offering aromas and flavours of mineral, grapefruit and lemon zest followed by a bone-dry, pithy finish. A great food wine, serve this with pan-fried white fish or seafood. (Susan Desjardins)


Sue-Ann Staff ‘Loved by Lu’ Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (322636) 10.5% alcohol
Minerality and wisps of diesel fuel on the nose provide segue to a glorious gusher of tangy lime cordial mingling with guava fruit and honeydew melon. It’s light-medium weight and nicely textured sporting a crisp, racy, refreshing finish. There’s good value and a long racy aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled prawns or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

Dirty Laundry ‘Not So Knotty’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Okanagan Valley $26.95 (353144) 13.9% alcohol
Here’s an unoaked stunner that opens with delightful aromas of toasty notes—it’s barrel fermented, white peach and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s medium bodied with generous mouth feel and a river of palate-bathing flavour—grilled pineapple and tropical fruit interlaced with baking spice and crème brûlée. The lingering, fruit-laden finish is a thing of beauty. Pour with roast fowl or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

Burrowing Owl Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $38.95 (556613) 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, exotic spice and berry fruit aromas presage a medium-weight, nicely textured wave of tangy red fruit—sour cherry, currant and plum with wisps of cranberry. The mid-length aftertaste is crisp, dry and refreshing. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

J. Lohr ‘South Ridge’ Syrah 2011
Paso Robles $19.95 (948240) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of piquant spice interwoven with glimmers of gamy notes and toasty oak precede a gentle wash of palate-bathing, red and dark berry fruit garnished with mixed spice, black pepper and mocha. It’s mid weight with good texture and a balanced aftertaste that layers on espresso roast and notions of sweet vanilla. (Vic Harradine)


The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

California $17.95 (140715) 13.9% alcohol 

The red, black and white label with its bucking bronco is an attention getter, as is the wine. It dishes up a lifted nose of earthy truffles, spice box and ripe, dark berry fruit. A medium-full bodied, nicely textured wash of milk chocolate and maraschino cherry coats the plate interweaving with sweet vanilla and black currant through the persistent aftertaste. There’s a lick of tannin here that’s mitigated via a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Horse Heaven Hills $19.95 (210047) 14.5% alcohol
Earthy, meaty and toasty on the nose, it opens on the palate with a dreamy, creamy smooth wash of black currant, ripe mulberry and briary berry wreathed in cassis and dark coffee. The lengthy finish is structured and balanced with each sip better than the previous—very good value and loaded with charm. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Norton ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010
Mendoza $17.95 (17061) 14.5% alcohol
This opens with a quiet nose of toasty notes, sweet vanilla and dark cherry/berry fruit. These replay on the palate adorned with black berry jam and charred toast. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a finish and aftertaste that’s mid length, balanced and fruity. Pour with grilled steak and portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)


Passionate Wines ‘Montesco’ Bonarda 2010
Tupungato Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (363127) 13.5% alcohol
Loved this—it’s ripe, juicy, dense, intense and great value. Kirsch liqueur, black plum and candied fruit star on the nose while ripe cherry, black currant and black plum compote coat the palate in waves. It’s mid-plus weight and generously textured with complexity, structure and a boatload of flavour. The lingering finish and aftertaste is balanced and fruit forward. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Emiliana ‘Natura’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Rapel Valley $14.95 (61069) 13.5% alcohol
Charry/tarry aromas mingle with wisps of sweet vanilla on the nose of this good-value red. The palate’s bathed with a gusher of medium-bodied, nicely textured ripe, red and dark cherry and berry fruit. It’s wreathed in excellent moderating acidity and a fair whack of tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before serving with grilled, seasoned flank steak or pop corks 2015 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Sister’s Run ‘Bethlehem Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $16.95 (360636) 14.5% alcohol
The lifted nose abounds with dried currant, oaky bits and mixed spice aromas. There’s a concentrated, fruit-laden wash of juicy, black, Bing cherry, bramble berry jam, cassis and savory herbs on the palate. It’s generously textured, mid-full bodied and nicely structured with a balanced, lengthy aftertaste replaying fruit from the palate with wisps of fennel. (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Clare Valley/Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (142398) 14.5% alcohol
Wakefield—named Taylors in Australia—is one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’, producing wine with sense of place. The delicate nose begrudgingly offers up notions of charred, toasty oak and mint with a dark, berry fruit underpinning. It’s tangy, juicy and spirited on the palate with sour cherry and red currant interweaving with riper black plum. This is mid weight and nicely textured with a drying, juicy finish and aftertaste. Pour with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Shiraz 2012
Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (433060) 13.5% alcohol
You’ll find this wine in the vaunted Langton’s Classification in the ‘Excellent’ category—only Australia’s finest wines make there way there. Rich and robust from the get go, it opens with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black pepper and dark berry fruit. Intense and beautifully structured, palate-coating flavours of richly concentrated dark cherry, mint and ripe mulberry interlace with kirsch liqueur and wisps of minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and a balanced, lingering finish—an affordable luxury. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Kim Crawford ‘East Coast’ Unoaked Chardonnay 2012 

Marlborough/Hawkes Bay $18.95 (991950) 13.0% alcohol
Straw-hued and delightfully expressive with aromas of white flowers, citrus and ripe stone fruit, this is a clean, fresh wine. Dry, with a racy backbone of keen acidity, it offers flavours of melon, green apple and tangy citrus, as well as a pithy note that persists on the lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste. Enjoy with your choice of seafood or lemon roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)


Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (957407) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas of savory lemongrass and passion fruit leap from the glass of this intensely flavoured gem. A tsunami wave of racy lemon, tangy gooseberry and bracing passion fruit flavours streak over the palate infusing the lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight with a satiny-smooth mouth feel while the aftertaste layers on notions of ripe pineapple. Pour alongside an arugula salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine

France: White Wine

Hervé Azo ‘Vau de Vey’ Chablis 1er Cru 2011
AOC Chablis $28.95 (240655) 12.5% alcohol
Smoke, slate and minerality aromas introduce a laser-like line of bracing acidity streaking across the palate on a river of ripe pineapple, tangy lemon and orchard-fruit flavour. It’s medium-bodied with a crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Freshly shucked oysters with a spot of Tabasco sauce and a squeeze of fresh lemon pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château des Landes ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2009
AOC Lussac-Saint-Émilion $19.95 (363101) 14.0% alcohol
This is a nicely structured, Merlot-dominant, red blend offering oodles of fruit and charm. Aromas of dark berry fruit, earthy notes and mixed spice herald a mellow, mid-weight wash of palate-bathing flavours with spiced-infused, black plum, red and dark cherry and bramble berry that replay on the lengthy, balanced, fruity finish. Pour with crown roast of pork with sausage stuffing. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Nages ‘Vielles Vignes’ 2010
AOC Costières de Nîmes $17.95 (40964) 15.0% alcohol
Dynamic owner Michel Gassier is the doyen of Costières de Nîmes—his wines are always worth a punt and this GSM is no exception. Aromas of local spice and herbs, vanilla and gamy notes presage a tangy river of sour cherry and cranberry interweaving with briary berry and cassis on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy dry, tangy finish—best poured with meat-laden pizza or prawn and sausage paella. (Vic Harradine)


Le Gravillas Gigondas 2011
AOP Gigondas $25.95 (78808) 14.5% alcohol
Savory herbs, exotic spice and cherry/berry aromas provide segue to a tangy, racy streak of red fruit with sour cherry, cranberry and red currant to the fore. It’s medium bodied, crisp and refreshing with a lip-smacking, drying finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce with gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

Mönchhof ‘Robert Eymael’ Riesling 2011
Qualitätswein $16.95 (349431) 8.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of piquant spice and citrus notes herald palate-coating waves of off-dry, sweet and tang flavour—baking spice, ripe peach and nectarine, tropical fruit and racy lemon citrus. It’s light on its feet with plenty of that sweet and tang that pours so well with dishes like lamb biryani and bobotie. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2012

DOC Valdadige, Italy $10.45 (687558) 375 mL 12.5% alcohol

The LCBO touts this as their best-selling wine. A delicate nose of floral notes, lemon tart and wisps of mineral precede a mid-weight, very nicely textured streak of lemon and lime garnished with notions of green apple. The mid-length finish is crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Pair with steamed mussels and a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Marchesi Di Barola Barbaresco 2010
DOCG Barbaresco $26.95 (155408) 13.5% alcohol
This is a lovely wine with complexity, structure and good heft throughout. Aromas of red berry fruit, floral notes and spice box transform into a rich, luscious wave of flavour with red cherry, bramble berry and notions of piquant spice and espresso roast dominant. It’s medium weight and well textured with a lick of tannin coating the palate on the finish and aftertaste. It’s loaded with promise—pop corks 2016 to 2023. (Vic Harradine)


Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva 2009
DOC Puglia $14.95 (724328) 13.0% alcohol
Pipe tobacco and notions of toast and dark berry fruit provide an entrée for a nicely structured river of tangy red cherry and spice-infused, ripe black currant interwoven with a solid tannin underpinning. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a dry, mid-length finish and aftertaste. Good to go now after a three-hour aeration/decant poured with beef fajitas or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Palazzo Brunello Di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Montalcino $59.95 (660746) 14.5% alcohol
2006 was a great vintage requiring patience given the tannin in many of the wines. This jumps from the glass with heady aromas of exotic spice, earthiness and über-ripe dark berry fruit. Broad shouldered and concentrated on the palate, a river of black currant and ripe bramble berry interweave with fennel and espresso roast wreathed in grainy tannin and good moderating acidity. This is smooth and structured with many years to go. Pop corks 2017-2025. (Vic Harradine)


Antolini Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2010
DOC Veneto $16.95 (362095) 14.0% alcohol
Earthiness/forest floor, spice box and berry fruit on the nose, it dishes up a gusher of palate-bathing flavour, balanced and beautiful—cherry and mulberry mingling with kirsch liqueur, espresso roast, herbs and spice. Mid weight with good mouth feel, complexity and charm, it finishes with a solid lick of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or open 2016 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta Do Quetzal ‘Reserva’ 2009
DOC Alentejo $28.95 (277376) 14.0% alcohol
Concentrated, complex and structured, heady aromas jump from the glass—sandalwood, dark toast and savory herbs. A lovely wash of blueberry, bramble berry and red cherry interweaves with sprigs of herbs and dark coffee. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a fruit-laden, balanced finish and aftertaste—black currant and dark cherry. Each sip’s as good or better than the previous. Just a bit chewy on the finish: aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Ares Crianza 2009
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (305912) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of red licorice and minty notes interweave with mineral/slate and red berry fruit. It’s balanced and bountiful on the palate with flavours of red currant and cherry mingling with an undercurrent of spice box and roasted herbs. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a well-structured finish that layers on a bed of tannin and lip-smacking tang. Aerate/decant three hours. (Vic harradine)


Don Jacobo ‘Reserva’ 2004 

DOCa Rioja $18.95 (313270) 13.5% alcohol 

Ruby in the glass, this deftly crafted, substantial wine has ripe, appealing, red fruit aromas mingling with scents of cedar, cocoa, herbs and spice. Dry, mid-full weight, there’s depth of fruit—plums and berries—matched to ripe tannins and a fresh texture. A touch of smoky oak and spice graces the lasting, crisp finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Hacienda Lopez de Haro ‘Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (357335) 13.5% alcohol
Tobacco, leather and cedar aromas herald a tangy and juicy, nicely textured, medium-weight river of black plum, red cherry and toasty/oaky bits. This has good sense of purpose with plenty of fruit, good moderating acidity and firm tannin on the lengthy aftertaste. With lots of life left, drink now after a two-hour aeration/decant and over the next decade alongside cassoulet or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Lealtanza ‘Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $20.95 (208223) 13.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of red cherry and red berry fruit, charred toast and mixed spice presage a creamy smooth river of dark ripe cherry and black currant garnished with sweet vanilla and fennel. It’s medium weight and nicely structured with an aftertaste of lip-smacking tang and notions of mocha. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Ontañón ‘Reserva’ 2004

DOCa Rioja $25.95 (725895) 13.0% alcohol

This red blend—95% Tempranillo with the balance Graciano—dishes up an astounding mouthful of fruit flavour with sweet black raspberry and spiced black plum predominant. It’s beautifully textured, medium bodied and showcases a well-sculpted, well-balanced lingering finish delivering ripe supple tannin and moderating mouth-watering tanginess mingling with milk chocolate-dipped cherries. There’s considerable tannin, portending a drinking window now to 2016. Pour alongside a thick hunk of seasoned, rib eye steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Planets de Prior Pons 2009
DOCa Priorat $24.95 (314559) 14.5% alcohol
Intense aromas of cherry cordial and red berry fruit interlace with piquant spice on the nose of this hefty, complex, well-structured gem. A concentrated gusher of red and black berry fruit coat the palate with tangy notes and toasted oak; medium bodied, creamy smooth. The impressive, lengthy aftertaste is balanced, fruit-driven and lip-smacking good—it was tough to spit. Pour with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan