Once again, the LCBO set the tasting for the middle of this week, making it impossible for us to deliver the newsletter before now. The wines are reviewed in the order they appear in the catalog under their headings.

We are including the scoring system explanation and icons at the end of this newsletter.



Croft LBV Port 1999
DOC Porto (Bottled in 2005) $13.95 (677823) 500 ml
Sold in a handy half-litre bottle (just right for four people) this has gorgeous, rich aromas and flavours. It makes a great partner for dark (not milk) chocolate desserts or stilton cheese, or just for sipping after a meal or in front of a fire. You'll find intense, fine, dried fruit, like prunes and figs, with notes of black plum and cherry, spicy accents and a perfect balance. (RP)


Quady 'Elysium' Black Muscat 2004
California $15.95 (276840) 375 ml
The colour-a washed-out cherry red-is deceptive, so don't feel dismayed when you pour this into your glass: the flavours are sweetly rich, intense and vibrant, with floral, strawberry and cherry to the fore. And unlike many dessert wines, which are viscous and sticky, this is light textured with a clean, almost crisp finish. Overall, it's a delicious complement to dark (not too bitter) chocolate and briny blue cheeses. (RP)


Royal Tokaji Wine Co. 5 Puttonyos 'Blue Label" 1999
Tokaji Aszü ,Hungary $19.95 (972836) 250 ml
"Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum!" (Wine of Kings, King of Wines!), declared King Louis X1V after drinking his. Quite a tribute to a dessert wine attacked by 2 different fungi; one in the vineyard (Botrytis Cinerea), another in the cellar (Radium Coloure). Between them they concentrate sugars, flavours and filter the dank cellar air. The "5 Puttonyos" promise powerful flavours and sweetness. The sherry-like nose is redolent of orange marmalade while the dried fruit (nectarine, apricot, blood orange) flavours explode on the palate. Serve chilled, alone or with holiday cake. A Royal gift for the wine-lover. (VH)



Royal Demaria Vidal Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $56.95 (544403) 375 ml
Over 200 medals in 6 vintages showcase this winery as "world class" wine producers, and they only make icewine. The lifted aromatics attack the olfactory with ripe Bosc pear and dried tropical fruit. The palate is treated to a richly textured, but not the least bit cloying, mélange of treacle, crème caramel and honeyed peach flavours. It all cleans up tangy with a lingering finish that begs for crème brûlée laced with Grand Marnier. (VH)


Flatrock Cellars Vidal Icewine 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (672410) 375 ml
Flatrock's wines are very good across the board, and they've made the right decision to bottle them all under screw cap. This icewine has all the typical flavours-honey, apricot, peach-with some edgy notes of ground cherry. It's less sweet than many icewines and has the acidity that's needed to carry the sugar off successfully. Pair it with seared foie gras or with blue cheese with a bite. (RP)



Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $54.95 (430561) 375 ml
A gorgeous and involved nose of citrus, dried tropical fruits, mineral and floral notes waft from the glass of this finely balanced gem. The flavours consist of sweet citrus plus honeyed, ripe pears and Golden Delicious apples while the texture is as smooth as satin. The luxurious and lengthy finish is quite stunning as it builds layer upon layer of those same lovely flavours while integrating the acidity seamlessly. Drink now to 2015 (VH)



Garvey 'La Lidia' Muy Fina
DO Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barremeda, Spain $11.95 (954719)
An elegant welcoming wine for guests to be served over the holidays, chilled, with olives, raw oysters, cold shrimp, roasted almonds, or hard cheeses. Drink within a few days of opening. Manzanillas are bone dry, pale in appearance, light in texture, delicate and slightly salty in flavour. Spaniards prefer this type of Sherry as I believe you will, too, after giving it a try and broadening your wine appreciation horizon. (VH)



Bollinger 'Special Cuvée' Brut Champagne (Multi-Vintage)
AOC Champagne, France $69.95 (384529)
A powerful nose of nuts, brioche and yeasty aromatics greet the taster. Combines muscle and finesse from the fruit forward (citrus) attack to the full-bodied texture on the palate. Bollinger are one of the few Champagne producers to ferment and age (some) of their wine in wood (very, very, old barrels so as to not impart tannin) and source their grapes from the top vineyards (80% are Grands or Premiers Crus). The wine is white, but predominantly Pinot Noir, another factor in its pleasing and muscular structure. (VH)



Peller Estates 'Private Reserve' Dry Riesling 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (641969)
Floral, mineral and slate aromas form the segue to this zesty, medium-bodied white. It is quite fruit-forward with citrus and tropical fruit flavours (honey dew melon and white peaches) melding with a pleasing spine of acidity. The finish is more of the same with a delightful tang suggesting a pairing with steamed mussels in a white wine sauce. (VH)



Osoyoos Larose 'Le Grand Vin' 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley $35.00 (626325)
This is the wine that became a Canadian icon with the first vintage. There's not a lot around, and at this price it will soon all be gone. A Bordeaux blend in the Bordeaux style, it has well-focused black fruit and berry flavours, all the complexity you can reasonably want, and a long complex finish. It's still fairly tannic, but the right food (like rare red meat) will take care of a lot of that. Otherwise, stick it away for three years and drink it over the following three. (RP)



Macrostie Chardonnay 2004
Carneros $28.95 (663054)
The quiet nose of smoky vanilla and nutty nuances disguise the delightful fruit bomb that follows. This medium-bodied Chard explodes on the palate with vanilla, ripe, sweet apple and pear flavours that are deftly balanced with a citrussy zest. The finish is lengthy with more of the same. You might want to pick up a few and try with that savoury-stuffed bird you'll be serving over the upcoming holiday season. (VH)



Renwood 'Sierra Series' Zinfandel 2002
Sierra Foothills $19.95 (942581)
Bramble berry and sharply-spiced cherry aromas lead the way to this medium to full-bodied Zin that has no sharp edges. It displays ripe, black fruit flavours that are nicely protected from jammy by fully ripened tannins and balancing acidity. An involved finish is medium in length. A great quaffer on its own or pair with a hearty stew in a rich Port sauce. (VH)


Santa Barbara Winery Syrah 2001
Santa Ynez Valley $19.95 (630616)
This is a superb wine. It delivers big, full texture and a mouthful of ripe, dark fruit that's lush and generous. Spiky notes of black pepper jump out of the fruit, and there's coffee and smoke in there, as well. Well made and well priced, it's a great partner for grilled lamb that's been marinated in garlic, rosemary and cracked black peppercorns. (RP)


Glass Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
California $15.95 (727511)
A little less intense in flavour than the previous vintage, but very attractive nonetheless. The fruit, a mélange of red and black tree fruit and berries, is pure and the medium weight suggests a good pairing with pork and a dark berry sauce. (RP)



Finca El Retiro Malbec 2003
Mendoza $11.95 (993824)
Another of the very good value Malbecs coming out of Argentina. It's just well made, with good fruit dimension, attractive spicy notes, and excellent balance. It won't knock your socks off, but it's excellent with mid-week red meat dishes. (RP)



Echeverria Carmenère 2004
Central Valley $12.95 (658559)
There's something about Camenère?. This one is very well priced, and it's the sort of wine that's worth buying by the half-dozen, just to trot out for a casual meal of hearty vegetarian or red meat-based stew. Everything is well done: the fruit, the balance, the price. (RP)


Viña Pérez Cruz Syrah 'Limited Edition' 2003
Maipo Valley $22.95 (589812)
(Review from June winecurrent newsletter follows)This inky, glass staining red is one to keep in mind. Destined for a September/October release, it is hand picked into small baskets and uses only gravity flow. Black pepper and spice exude from the glass while the palate is complex, silky, rich and concentrated with ripe black cherry and black berry fruit flavours. The gorgeous finish begs for pepper and garlic encrusted grilled rack of lamb. Drink now to 2009. (VH)


Montes Oak Aged Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Colchagua Valley $12.95 (464479)
The inviting and warm (14.5% alc.) nose of black plums and licorice opens the door to sweet, black, ripe, juicy cherry and currant flavours. It is medium bodied with a pleasant fruity (cherries and spiced cranberries) finish. Never elegant, it is honest, a crowd pleaser and tremendous value. Try with pizza, burgers or pasta with tomato-based sauces. (VH)



Sherwood Estate Wines 'Stratum' Riesling 2004
New Zealand $16.95 (661686)
A lifted nose of sweet, spring flowers and minerally slate form the entry to this medium to full-bodied Kiwi white. This has touches of Alsace with its beautifully textured mouth feel and sweet and sour attack on the palate and finish. The flavours are peaches and citrus and this would be a superb match to seared scallops. Drink now to 2009. (VH)



Cathedral Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
WO Paarl $16.95 (328567)
Smoky, earthy and dried cherry aromatics waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red. There are a good deal of sweet, black, ripe cherry and plum flavours with hints of chocolate and tar in the involved flavour profile. All this is wrapped around perceptible tannins and oaky notes that may need some time to quiet down. Drink now with rare or medium-rare pepper steak or 2008 to 2012 with any manner of red meat. (VH)



W. Gisselbrecht Gewürztraminer 'Réserve Spéciale' 2004
AOC Alsace $16.95 (678003)
This is one beautiful Gewürztraminer. Classic in style, dry-textured and medium-weight, it offers typical flavours of spicy fruit (peach, apricot, stewed pear, lychee, lime zest) that are finely balanced with the acidity. There's just a hint of that characteristic bitterness at the finish. The cliché is Thai food, but why not? Spicy seafood, chicken or pork would go marvelously with this. (RP)



Château Lamothe de Haux Blanc 2004
AOC Bordeaux $12.95 (909341)
Made from all three permitted white Bordeaux grapes, this is quite classic and it's priced for everyday drinking. Look for the contributions of each of the varieties in this blend: the floral fruitiness, solid texture, and brisk, clean finish. It's an excellent partner for many seafood appetizers and for grilled fish with firm white flesh. (RP)



'Le Haut-Lieu' Vouvray Sec 2004
AOC Vouvray $23.95 (705764)
Chenin Blanc from Vouvray (in fact, from the broader Loire region) is under-valued and under-appreciated. Try this dry Vouvray from one of the area's premier producers, and you'll see why it's such a favourite in some people's books. The balance of fruit and acidity is quite superb, and there are appealing notes of earthiness and minerality to add complexity. Pair it with shellfish or freshwater white fish. (RP)



Château Haut Breton Larigaudière 2001
AOC Margaux, Cru Bourgeois $36.95 (957738)
Made mostly from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this speaks to careful fruit selection and winemaking. It's from a fine vintage and a notable appellation, and delivers elegance in its fruit, balance, weight and finish. You could cellar it for a couple of years, but it's quite ready to drink now. Think of it next time you're preparing a leg of lamb for the oven. (RP)



Cyril Mares "Mas de Bressades" 'Cuvée Excellence' 2003
AOC Costières de Nîmes $18.95 (708750)
A perennial favourite that creeps up in price and pole vaults up in quality each vintage. Bacon and Montmorency cherries form the aromatic profile while gobs of sweet brambly fruit, mint and mocha attack the palate. The ripe tannins provide sufficient grip while the finish is lengthy, fruit-forward and memorable. Pair with Beef Bourguignon. (VH)



Masi 'Colbaraca' 2004
DOC Soave Classico $16.95 (724161)
Soave is often written off because of the number of watery, flavorless wines sold under the appellation. But this Masi example is a stand-out, as you'd expect. It's crisp and delicate, with complex fruit flavours (pear, white peach) and quite prominent minerality. It's a very good partner for lightly-seasoned seafood appetizers. (RP)



Tommasi Amarone 2001
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $49.95 (356220)
An amazingly powerful and complex wine that will repay some cellaring but that can be drunk now. It displays a rich array of fresh and dried fruit, with notes of coffee, chocolate and spice. At the core is a seam of sweet, ripe fruit, and it's got a layer of sweet tannins. When you open this, make sure you pair it with a well-seasoned red meat dish. It'll overwhelm anything else. (RP)


Masi 'Mazzano' Amarone 1999
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $89.95 (545129)
This would be a stunning gift for any wine lover, including yourself, at a very good price compared to other markets. Black currant, tar and leather aromas whoosh from the glass of this classic beauty. It is heavily textured and provides copious amounts of cassis, black licorice and coffee flavours. The finish builds on the same adding spice and herb notes. Drinking gorgeously now, on its own or with Osso Bucco and mushroom risotto. (VH)


Montelvini 'El Zuiter' Rosso 2000
IGT delle Venezie $19.95 (969741)
Red licorice and cranberries can be coaxed from the muted nose. A mélange of grapes are in the blend, but there is a single word to describe the texture - silky. All manner of ripe juicy berry fruit (raspberry, cherry, red currant) and tertiary flavours (cedar and coffee) coat the palate while the finish is more of the same. Nothing to get mad at and a good deal to like in this red. (VH)



J.M. Fonseca Quinta de Camarate 2001
Vinho Regional Terras do Sado $13.95 (357962)
This was first released in July. Fonseca is an exceptional producer of fine wines and this fits in. Roasted nuts, earthy notes and ripe Bing cherries round out the aromatics while the mouth feel is round and plush. Has a lovely sweet mid palate of ripe black fruit that is framed by clean acidity and good grip. Offers a lot for the price tag, worth stocking up. Drink now to 2009 with grilled rare strip loin or rack of lamb. (VH)



'Black Peak' Tamaioasa Romaneasca 2004
Cotnari Region $10.95 (655282)
A very lifted nose of rosewater, lilacs and candied ginger greet the lucky taster before the sweet flavours (lemon drop candy and orange rind marmalade) rush in. It follows through to the finish without missing a step and there is enough acidity to balance and clean it up beautifully. A tad sweet to be having with a main, but would complement a fruit or custard and fruit dessert. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)



Condesa de Leganza Reserva 'Finca Los Trenzones' 1995
DO La Mancha $13.95 (658450)
Many readers have not tried a decade-old wine, most pay triple this price for the pleasure. This is akin to an aged Rioja (it is 100% Tempranillo). Leather, spice and vanilla aromas drift off the wine while the flavours are predominantly dried and crushed currants and spicy cherries. It is light to medium-bodied, elegant and involved rather than bold and in-your-face. This is for sipping on its own or with lighter fare such as veal or pork. (VH)


'Castell de Falset' Tinto 2000
DO Montsant $29.95 (657445)
This is one of those dark and brooding wines. The fruit is all dark, rich, and ripe and contributes to the full body texture. Throw in some accents of spice, cough medicine, pepper and coffee, balance everything, make sure the tannins are ripe and firm, and you have a wine to tuck away for five years or so. But you can also drink it now, as long as you match it with flavoursome red meat, like grilled venison. (RP)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers, Vic and Rod