December 5, 2013 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on February 1, 2014 and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

There are NO tickets sold at the door.

The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

• Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre
• Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
• Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick
• Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

Highlights in the following newsletter include:

• Exceptional value wines – four of the +70 wines sipped, spat and reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; all in the release, identified by the above icon. What are the quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com click on ‘Rating System’.
• Vic’s Personal Picks –Hauller ‘Muenchberg’ Riesling 2011 4½ stars now @ $19.95 under France: White Wine; La Ferme du Mont ‘Côtes Jugunda’ Gigondas 2010 4½ stars @ $29.95 under France: Red Wine; Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 2007 4½ stars @ $49.95 under Italy: Red Wine and Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2011 4½ stars @ $35.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
• 5-star wines – four rang the 5-star bell. In the release under Dessert Wine there’s the De Bortoli ‘Noble One’ 375 mL for $31.95; under Sparkling Wine the Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ for $25.95: under Ontario: White Wine the Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Chardonnay for $24.95 and under ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ the Tawse Winery ‘Robyn’s Block’ Chardonnay 2011 for $45.95

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages release: December 7, 2013

Fortified Wine: Port

Burmester ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port

DOC Douro $24.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is food friendly with a long, delicious, sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or Amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)


Cockburn & Smith & Co. ‘Newman's Celebrated’ Port

DOC Porto $14.95 (134908) 20% alcohol

This is still one of the great bargains in the LCBO. An entry level "Ruby" Port that over- delivers on every count. Expect spice and cassis on the nose and then ladles of palate-drenching sweet, black, ripe, juicy berry and pit fruit flavours. More of the same on the finish, sending one in search of a cold winter evening, chocolate dessert or large chips of Parmigiano-Reggiano to match. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine

De Bortoli ‘Noble One’ Botrytis Semillon 2009
Riverina, New South Wales, $31.95 (917252) 10.5% alcohol
Sublime is a good word to describe this unctuous dessert wine. Beguiling aromas of honeyed orange, lime zest, marmalade, ripe orchard fruit and roasted nut surge from the glass. The full, lush texture bathes the palate in notes of preserved lemon, dried apricot, spiced honey and caramelized fruit, while the fine backbone of acidity ensures the intense sweetness and weight are deftly balanced yet lingering. While designed for cellaring, this wine is quite irresistible now, on its own or with a fine blue cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

José Dhondt ‘Blanc de Blancs’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $53.95 (358408) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s balanced and beautiful Blanc de Blancs—100% Chardonnay—with fine-bead bubbles, flavour and charm galore. Pop the cork to discover aromas of baking brioche, yeasty notes and notions of ripe pit fruit—plum, peach and nectarine. It streaks over the palate with good nerve and verve and a fruit salad bowl of flavour—crisp, green apple, white peach and tangy grilled pineapple. It’s structured, complex and very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin ‘Vintage’ Rosé Champagne 2004 

AOC Champagne $97.95 (588475) 12.0% alcohol 

Leesy, toasty aromas broaden out to baking brioche on the nose providing segue to a rich, dense and concentrated swath of flavour on the palate—red currant, pomegranate and spice-infused red plum embroidered by a fine-bead mousse and lengthy, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Has the structure to front up well to roast turkey with all the fixings or pan-seared salmon or tuna. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Megalomaniac Bubblehead 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $28.95 (363655) 12.0% alcohol
Crafted in the traditional method from 100% Pinot Noir, this refined sparkler spent two years on the lees. It dazzles the senses with subtle notions of red field berry, warm brioche, elusive floral notes and lively citrus. The mousse is fine, creamy and persistent, the acidity racy and refreshing. A versatile sipper that can be enjoyed as you ring in the new year. (Susan Desjardins)


Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol

A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of Cabernet Franc. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with ice wine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)


Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2012 

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia $25.95 (256289) 6.5% alcohol 

Honeysuckle, rosewater and exotic, piquant spice and herbs interweave with aromas of orange liqueur on the spirited nose. Spritzy, mouth-filling waves of peel marmalade, apricot chutney and lime-laced guava splash over the palate in unfettered abandon. It’s sweet on the palate, crisp, refreshing on the finish, all deftly balanced and lip-smacking good—how good is that? A dandy conversation-starter or pour with Stilton or Bleu Bénédictin. (Vic Harradine)


Charles Duret ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne 

AOC Burgundy $18.95 (185694) 12.0% alcohol 

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay, this sparkler has bright aromas of orchard fruit, white flowers and citrus. Dry, lively and fresh with a lasting effervescence, it’s medium bodied and minerally with tangy flavours of green apple and citrus. There’s an elusive nuttiness on the persistent, refreshing finish. Good value and a good choice to serve as an aperitif. (Susan Desjardins).


Simonsig ‘Kaapse Vonkel Brut’ Cap Classique 2011
WO Western Cape $19.95 (342758) 12.5% alcohol
A blend of wines produced from the classic grapes—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier—this was the first South African wine produced in the traditional method. There’s a hint of peach in the deep golden hue, the nose offering aromas of yeast, lemon-lime, apple and a whiff of red berry. The mousse is ample and refined, the clean flavours displaying mineral notes, apple and bread yeast. Crisp and tangy on the finish, this is a fine sipper and would pair well with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)


Juvé y Camps ‘Cinta Purpura Reserva’ Brut Cava 2009
DO Cava $17.95 (352864) 12.0% alcohol
Generally produced from the indigenous Macabeu, Parellada and Xarel-lo grapes in the traditional method, Cava offers great quality and value, this sparkler being no exception. Classic notes of white flower, ripe apple, pear, citrus and toast pop from the glass. The attack is clean and fresh, the mousse fine, mouth filling and long lasting, framing tangy notes of citrus, green apple and yeast that persist through the tasty, refreshing finish. Offering poise and refinement, this is an excellent choice for any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 (149302) 13.0% alcohol 

Kitchen spice, sweet vanilla and wisps of nuttiness pave the way for a beautifully textured, almost creamy, river of nutmeg, ginger, ripe, sweet pear and racy citrus. It’s medium bodied and balanced on a pin with a lengthy, delightful aftertaste of vanilla and wisps of spiced oak barrels hewn from nearby trees. Excellent now, pour with festive bird or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Inniskillin ‘Winemaker’s Series - Montague Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (586347) 13.9% alcohol
Sourced from a stunning vintage and the iconic Montague Vineyard, this erupts from the glass with lively aromas of buttered toast, citrus and exotic spice. It dishes up a glorious mouthful of tropical fruit—pineapple and honeydew melon—with wisps of fig and apple crisp. There’s good weight, complexity and generous mouth feel in this broad-shouldered, balanced and delectable gem. Gorgeous now, should improve over the next two or three years. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Pillitteri Antagonist 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (291948) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of spiced rose peals, red berry, cherry and smoke mingle harmoniously in this blend of the Cabernets and Merlot. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine has a nice heft, good balance and a smooth texture. Spiced toast, red plum, berries and herbs linger on the lip-smacking finish, lifted by a touch of pepper. Enjoy with casual fare. (Susan Desjardins)


Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Cabernet/Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (172080) 13.2% alcohol
A certified biodynamic wine, this blend has aged well, offering intriguing notes of grilled herbs, roasted red pepper, earth, red berry and a touch of vanilla. Dry, medium bodied and smooth, the aromas replay on the palate, sour cherry and red currant to the fore with a touch of dark chocolate and notes of well-integrated oak. Displaying the balance and firm structure of a classic Niagara, red blend, this wine is a match for roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)


The Foreign Affair ‘The Temptress’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (127340) 15.3% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, sandalwood and piquant spice aromas work their magic introducing deep, concentrated flavours of red currant and sour cherry interweaving with spice-laden, riper mulberry fruit. There’s a solid line of acidity and a noticeable tannin underpinning from first sip to last drop—all handled nicely popping corks 2015 to 2020 with a fine cut of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Liberty School Chardonnay 2011
Central Coast $18.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol
Binned apple, caramel and spice-infused orchard fruit herald a huge fruit salad bowl of very ripe fruit with white nectarine, yellow peach and grilled pineapple. It’s moderated nicely with notions of spice and racy lemon acidity persisting on the palate and through the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Its mid-full weight and nicely textured with oodles flavour and very good balance. (Vic Harradine)


Mer Soleil ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $34.95 (958975) & 1500 ml $74.95 (271551) 14.5% alcohol
This is hi-toned California Chardonnay with plenty of toasty oak, ripe, luscious fruit and charm. Toffee apple, exotic spice and toasty oak on the nose, it washes over the palate in waves with sweet vanilla, ripe apple and a mélange of tropical fruit to the fore. This is rich, robust and satin textured with a gusher of flavour infusing the lingering aftertaste—caramel apple, oaky bits and hints of racy citrus acidity. Pour with smoked, pulled pork or smoked, grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Sonoma County $31.95 (186171) 13.9% alcohol
The inky depths of this lovely varietal wine herald the intensity and complexity of aromas and flavours. Hints of mint and smoke waft from the glass, layered on cherry, blackberry and traces of dried herbs and spiced rose petals. Dry and full bodied, the palate is bathed in rich, lush dark berry and plum, mingling with exotic spice, dried herbs and toasty oak. Refined, velvety tannins and clean acidity create a fine balance through a persistent, warm, toasty finish. Savour and serve with prime rib and a medley of roast vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)


Gnarly Head ‘Old Vine Zin’ Zinfandel 2011
Lodi $17.95 (678698) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoky, oaky, dark cherry and ripe berry fruit on the nose, replay on the palate with wood smoke, dark fruit and toasty oak joined by black berry jam and black plum compote. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a dry, balanced fruit-filled finish. Pours and pairs well with grilled, smoked, back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

Napa Valley $19.95 (25106) 14.5% alcohol 

The quality of this wine makes Vic and I glad the Indelicato brothers came back to their roots after ‘escaping’ the family farm. Dense and dark, this outstanding, finely balanced, dry red offers lovely aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar, spiced vanilla and fragrant, dried herbs. Dry, full bodied, it’s a warm, approachable, intensely flavourful gem displaying well-integrated oak, fresh acidity and velvety tannins married to a core of sweet, spiced cassis, blackberry and plum. Great fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Sonoma County $21.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
This opaque, ruby-hued gem radiates aromas of red and black berries, herbs, spice and vanilla. Dry and full bodied, the firm underlying structure creates lovely tension while framing the rich berry and plum fruit. A touch of well-integrated oak garnishes the lasting, dry finish. Crafted with restraint and elegance, this wine is a match for rare, red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

Trapiche ‘Finca las Palmas’ Chardonnay 2011
Uco Valley $16.95 (355610) 14.0% alcohol
An absolutely delightful and well built beauty, this Chardonnay exudes aromas of toasted nut, pear, tropical fruit, citrus and baking spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it balances creamy texture with lively acidity lifting the flavours of orchard fruit and citrus, while offering hints of well-integrated oak on the extended finish. A fine choice for turkey dinner. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Finca Flichman Paisaje de Barrancas 2010
Mendoza $17.95 (17129) 14.5% alcohol
Aged 12 months in French and American oak, this blend of Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon is dense and inky. Aromas of dark fruit, exotic spice, vanilla and smoke are intense, heralding the mouth-filling flavours of dark fruit, black pepper and spicy oak. Soft tannins and fine acidity create structure and balance, transporting the concentrated fruit through the dry finish. A great choice for any red meat dish. (Susan Desjardins)


Pascual Toso ‘Barrancas Vineyards Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Mendoza $19.95 (083337) 14.5% alcohol
There’s great purity of fruit in this mid-weight, tang-laden Cab. Aromas of sandalwood and field-blend berry fruit presage a wash of red cherry, black currant and charred toast coating the palate. It showcases medium weight, good texture and a grainy, tannin underpinning. It finishes with a replay of red cherry and black currant interweaving with baking spice. (Vic Harradine)


Salentein ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.95 (353177) 14.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, burned toast and exotic spice introduce a laser-like, tangy, line of sour cherry and red berry fruit streaking across the palate infusing the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and plenty of nerve and verve throughout. Pasta in tomato sauce pairs well. (Vic Harradine)


Zolo ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2008

Mendoza $17.95 (81091) 14.0% alcohol

Aged 14 months in French and American oak, this inky-purple gem is your go-to wine for the barbeque. Aromas of dark fruit, blackcurrant jam and sweet, smoky spice rush from the glass. Dry and medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity balance rich, ripe field berries and dark smoky toast. It’s full flavoured to the finish, where a hint of bittersweet chocolate lingers. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Primus ‘The Blend’ 2011
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (712463) 14.5% alcohol
This is a crowd-pleasing, six-variety red blend with plenty to offer. Espresso roast, forest floor and Asian spice on the nose, there’s good depth and concentration of flavours with black currant, ripe mulberry and juicy, black Bing cherry. Medium-full bodied with excellent mouth feel, the finish persists, fruit-laden, dry and perfectly balanced. Pour alongside gourmet burgers, steak or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Casablanca ‘El Bosque – Winemaker’s Choice’ Carmenère 2010
Rapel Valley $15.95 (199836) 14.7% alcohol
Wood smoke, tobacco and baking spice aromas presage a racy river of red cherry, currant and hints of mocha bathing the palate in layers of spice and tang. There’s good texture and weight and the finish replays flavours from the palate garnished with mocha and toasty oak. Spaghetti Bolognese or lasagna pours and pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Alkoomi Riesling 2010
Frankland River, Western Australia $17.95 (269290) 11.8% alcohol
Piquant spice, citrus and machine-oil aromas abound, followed by a solid line of bracing, racy lemon-lime, minerality and oodles of tang. It’s mid weight, well textured, tight and taut. The finish and aftertaste are drenched in mouth-watering, crisp acidity. Poured well with salt and pepper, grilled calamari rings under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Penfolds ‘Bin 138’ Shiraz/Grenache/Mataro 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (468637) 14.5% alcohol
Vintage after vintage, Bin 138 delivers quality—you can take it to the bank. Never over the top, this presents more like a Rhône Valley GSM than typical Barossa Valley. Toast, berry fruit and spice aromas presage a palate-bathing wash of spice-laden ripe mulberry and dark cherry. It’s long on poise, balance, charm and a lip-smacking aftertaste. Very good now, it’ll be better in three or four years. (Vic Harradine)


Saltram ‘Mamre Brook’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $26.95 (048579) 14.5% alcohol
An iconic Cab in Australia, it’s worth a punt if you haven’t tried previously. Piquant spice, toasty oak and wood smoke provide segue to a powerful, rich mouthful of cassis and briary berry interwoven with baking spice. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a rich, concentrated finish of black currant and dark juicy cherry. Give it a go with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Tait ‘The Ball Buster’ Red 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (269472) 14.9% alcohol
This is a full-flavoured, fully textured, red blend with oodles of structure, depth and charm. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. Pretty floral notes interweave with dark berry fruit and toasty bits on the alluring nose before balanced and beautiful red and black berry and dark juicy cherry coat the palate in waves. It’s mid-full weight with a glorious finish of ripe mulberry, cracked pepper and mocha wreathed in lip-smacking tang and a wisp of supple tannin. Grilled rack of lamb marries well. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (686675) 13.5% alcohol
The highly expressive aromas jump from the glass with passion fruit, gooseberry and smoky notes galore. Passion fruit and lemongrass interweave with lemon-lime acidity, minerality and piquant spice on the palate. This is light on its feet with decent mouth feel and a lengthy, crisp and refreshing finish. Pan-seared trout under freshly squeezed lemon or arugula salad under crumbled chèvre are divine. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

Bründlmayer ‘Kamptaler Terrassen’ Grüner Veltliner 2012
DAC Kamptal $21.95 (979708) 12.5% alcohol
Floral notes mingle with mineral/slate and citrus aromas. Racy lemon-lime and white grapefruit tang dominate the palate with wisps of Granny Smith apple and blood orange peeking through. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and crisp, refreshing, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Joseph Cattin Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $17.95 (224626) 13.5% alcohol
This is über delicious, balanced on a pin and value laden—what’s not to like? Aromas of rosewater, incense and floral notes provide segue for a rush of light-on-its-feet, sweet and sultry flavours of Turkish delight, white peach and exotic spice. It’s beautifully textured with a spice-infused, sweet and tang, lingering finish and aftertaste of grilled pineapple interlaced with balancing lemon acidity. Pour with butter chicken, tandoori chicken or pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)


Pierre Sparr ‘Altenbourg’ Riesling 2010
AOC Alsace $16.95 (906016) 12.5% alcohol
Displaying aromas of apricot, citrus, green apple and stone, this is a very appealing and flavourful dry, light-medium bodied Riesling. Notes of mango, honey and mineral tantalize the palate, mingling with citrus and orchard fruit. Lively and well balanced, the finish is refreshing and extended. Great with white meats, fowl or a cheese plate. (Susan Desjardins)

The following wine was one of Vic’s Personal Picks last newsletter. Imagine his pleasant surprise when he picked some up from Vintages and the price was $2 less than shown in the Vintages Release catalogue. That good-value Riesling is now terrific-value. There’s still stock in stores, don’t pass this up.


Hauller ‘Muenchberg’ Riesling 2011 

AOC Alsace Grand Cru $19.95 (360370) 12.5% alcohol
Citrus, mineral/slate notes and mixed orchard fruit aromas set the stage for a glorious wash of ripe pear, yellow plum and off-dry white peach and nectarine flowing over the palate. It’s structured, medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and just plain delicious. It finishes lengthy, balanced and beautiful with a great price for a wine with the Grand Cru Muenchberg—mountain of Monks—pedigree. Give it a go with freshwater fish pan-seared in a dot or two of butter. (Vic Harradine)


Louis Jadot ‘Domaine Gagey Le Clou d’Orge’ Ladoix 2010
AOC Ladoix $32.95 (356642) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, heady aromas of buttered toast, sandalwood and baking spice herald a lovely, balanced wash of blood orange and tangy lemon-lime nicely paired with ripe yellow apple and white nectarine. It’s mid-full bodied with generous, creamy mouth feel and a balanced, complex lengthy finish. Give it a go with roast chicken or grilled tuna. (Vic Harradine)


Vignobles Guilhem Le Viognier 2012
IGP Pays d’Oc $15.95 (358507) 13.5% alcohol
A golden gem, this Viognier delivers. From the lifted aromas of tropical fruit, white flowers, sweet citrus and honey to the clean fresh texture and depth of flavour—mango, peach and lemon zest to the fore—it’s delightful. Dry, medium-full bodied, it offers a wonderful fullness and that characteristic, pleasing touch of tangy bitterness on the finish. An excellent value, enjoy it with roast pork loin or lemon-herb chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Bertinerie Cru Réserve 2009
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux-Blaye $18.95 (244640) 13.5% alcohol
From one of the lesser-known Bordeaux appellations, this blend of Merlot and the Cabernets is a remarkable value. Cherries, plum and berries are layered with spice, cedar and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, the fruit and spice replays, a sweet note of toasty oak and a hint of chocolate mingling with a whiff of dried herbs. Well structured and balanced, appealingly accessible and fruity, this is a great red to cellar or serve with herb-crusted leg of lamb or with your favourite roast of beef. (Susan Desjardins)


Château Clément Saint-Jean 2010
AOC Médoc $22.95 (348771) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a well-priced Cru Bourgeois for those looking to reap big rewards from a modest investment and some careful cellaring. This opens with a lifted nose of cedar, smoke and mixed spice aromas before drenching the palate with tannin-laced flavours of red currant and red cherry garnished with toasty oak and baking spice. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a treasure chest of promise—pop corks 2017-2022. (Vic Harradine)


Château Vieux ‘Cardinal Lafaurie’ 2009
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $27.95 (061713) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, mixed spice and pipe tobacco intro a beautifully balanced, nicely textured, river of juicy, tangy, sour cherry and dried currant interwoven with roasted herbs. It’s mid weight with good texture and lingering finish of ripe berry fruit, good acidity and a lick of supple tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with ballotine of chicken.


Laurent Gauthier ‘Grand Cras Vieille Vignes’ Morgon 2011
AOC Morgon $17.95 (279059) 12.5% alcohol
Morgon is one of the top areas for Gamay, this is lovely. Lilac and red cherry/berry on the nose, it showcases balance, excellent fruit—red cherry and mixed field berry—with racy, mouth-watering tang. Mid weight and nicely textured, this is full of charm with a lengthy, lip-smacking finish that’s, uncharacteristically, showing a solid, tannin underpinning. Open 2015-2018; if impatient, aerate/decant three hours and pour with rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine du Pavillon ‘Clos des Ursulines’ Pommard 2011
AOC Pommard $49.95 (023820) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, exotic incense and charred toast aromas provide segue for a tangy, juicy, line of red cherry and red berry fruit streaking across the palate interlaced with vanilla, toasty oak and wisps of fine-grained, sweet tannin. It’s medium bodied with soft creamy texture, good balance and a lingering, luxurious finish. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)


Thevenet & Fils ‘Bussières Les Clos’ Bourgogne 2011
AOC Bourgogne $17.95 (356733) 13.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this attractive Pinot Noir combines red berry and cherry with earthy aromas. Dry, medium bodied, red fruit to the fore—cherry, currant and cranberry—accented by vibrant acidity, framed by gentle tannins. Dry, tart and tangy, this is a food wine that will work with hearty meat pies or game. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine Mucyn Saint-Joseph 2010
AOC Saint-Joseph $28.95 (358614) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% Syrah is nicely structured with good depth of flavour, solid tannin for bones and excellent moderating acidity. A perfumed nose of campfire smoke, black briary berry and black licorice heralds a tightly wound line of black currant, gamy/meaty notes and tangy, racy currant and cherry on the palate. Good weight and texture and a balanced finish mark this as well worth a try. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with beef daube. (Vic Harradine)


Famille Perrin ‘Les Christins’ Vacqueyras 2011
AOC Vacqueyras $23.95 (973453) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of cedar and dried berry fruit meld nicely with forest floor undertones and black licorice. It starts rather delicately with soft ripe strawberry and black plum then broadens out on the mid-palate with a broad-shouldered gusher of kirsch liqueur, cassis and good tannin structure. It’s a Grenache-predominant blend, mid-plus bodied with good texture and balanced aftertaste of ripe fruit, sweet tannin and good moderating acidity; and… it’ll improve with short-term cellaring. (Vic Harradine)


La Ferme du Mont ‘Côtes Jugunda’ Gigondas 2010
AOP Gigondas $29.95 (354118) 14.5% alcohol
This has depth, complexity, deft balance and a world of flavour. Berry fruit, fennel and floral aromas presage a rich, robust river of ripe, bramble berry mingling with tangy red cherry garnished with espresso roast and garrigue. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and a monumental finish—lengthy, lip-smacking and just plain delicious. It was tough to spit. Pour now to 2021 with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)


Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $57.95 (700922) 14.5% alcohol
From a premium C-d-P producer, this will bowl you over with stunning aromatics and a layered, complex, fruit-forward river of flavour. Aromas of mixed red cherry/berry, exotic incense, local herbs and raw bacon introduce a fully flavoured, beautifully balanced, textured wash of kirsch liqueur and ripe mulberry interweaving with cracked black pepper and toasty notes. These replay on the long, mouth-watering aftertaste along with ripe, juicy briary berry. (Vic Harradine)


Les Vignerons de Visan ‘Visan’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (179234) 14.5% alcohol
There’s finesse to the structure of this intensely fruity, medium-full bodied red. The nose offers lashings of sweet fruit, vanilla, spice and garrigue. The palate is dry, yet smooth, showcasing loads of luscious, clean, ripe fruit, balance assured by well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity. The spice and herbs replay on the dry, tasty finish. This will pair beautifully with roast beef au jus. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Alto Adige $16.95 (95802) 13.5% alcohol
This is quite an intense Pinot Grigio, offering lifted floral notes and aromas of peach, pear and citrus. Dry, attractively creamy and medium bodied, it makes its presence felt on the palate. It achieves just the right weight of fruit, offering a touch of spice and a mineral quality. Lively acidity provides balance and delivers a riveting finish. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few bottles to enjoy at holiday gatherings or to serve with lighter meats, fowl or cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Azelia Barolo 2009
DOCG Barolo $43.95 (291963) 14.5% alcohol
A perfumed bouquet of lilacs, baking spice and pipe tobacco aromas abound. This is poised and balanced with great purity of fruit—ripe dark cherry, mulberry and dried currant—interlaced with sprigs of herbs. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a mid-length finish that’s wreathed with moderating acidity and garnished with fine-grained tannin. Good to go now and on to 2020 poured with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Beni di Batasiolo Langhe Rosso 2010
DOC Langhe $16.95 (981019) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this Piemonte blend of Dolcetto d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba and Langhe Nebbiolo combines aromas of sweet red cherries, black berries and dried fruit with notions of clove, smoke and lavender. Dry, medium bodied, the perceptible tannins and lively acidity proclaim the structure, underlining the flavours of fresh red cherry and berry. A touch of spice and a trace of chocolate tantalize on the lingering tangy finish. A good choice to pair with rare red meats or meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)


Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $49.95 (928028) 14.0% alcohol
This is a dazzling red sourced from a top-drawer winery and the 5-star, ‘07 vintage. Sandalwood gamy notes, spice and licorice on the nose, it showers the palate with sour cherry, dark berry fruit and notions of cassis that persist throughout. This is mid weight with depth of flavour and complexity and a long, lip-smacking aftertaste promising more in the future. Enjoy now to 2022 and beyond—a thing of beauty wrapped under the tree or uncorked on the table. (Vic Harradine)


La Vite ‘Lucente’ 2011
IGT Toscana $34.95 (747030) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, tobacco and savoury herbs dominate the nose of this finely wrought gem. Sour cherry and red currant mingle with piquant spice, fennel and raisined, dark berry fruit on the palate. There’s plenty more fruit, moderating acidity and a solid lick of tannin on the drying finish. Better to pop corks 2016 to 2022 poured with rare-grilled hangar steak and Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)


Luigi Righetti ‘Campolieti’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (695890) 13.5% alcohol
Crafted from fruit harvested in the original Valpolicella viticultural area, this dry, medium-full bodied red displays added intensity and depth from the use of dried grapes in the winemaking process. There’s complexity of aromas and flavours—floral notes, berry, vanilla, notions of dried cherries, herbs and spice—on a subtle structure. Clean, fresh acidity frames bright, tasty fruit, the lengthy aftertaste offering notions of chocolate and pleasing, toasty oak. Cellar or serve this now with beef tenderloin and a pine nut, sun-dried tomato stuffing. (Susan Desjardins)


Michele Castellani ‘Cinque Stelle’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $53.95 (075127) 15.5% alcohol
Heady, perfumed aromas of cedar, herbs and spice herald a mid-plus weight, generously textured, almost fleshy wash of mulberry, bramble berry pie and mocha-laced red cherry bathing the palate infusing the finish. There’s a classis Amarone bite on the aftertaste. Look for good balance and oodles of charm in this well-structured, cellar-able beauty; drink now and for the next decade. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Beronia ‘Reserva’ 2008

DOCa Rioja $18.95 (050203) 14.0% alcohol

Hi-toned aromas of piquant spice, lively, red berry fruit and mixed spice dominate the nose. Fresh and spirited sour cherry and dark briary berry interlace with sprigs of herb, dark chocolate and espresso roast on the fully textured river of balanced flavour bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely structured and well defined with a complex and lip-smacking aftertaste. Good to go now with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: March 2014

Tawse Winery Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13% alcohol
This single-vineyard offering dishes up an alluring nose of sandalwood and roasted herbs announcing a tangy line of sour cherry and red currant fleshing out to riper berry fruit on the mid palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a chalky, drying aftertaste wreathed in still-resolving, tannin. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with a mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Huff Estates Rosé 2012
VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 (036982) 13.0% alcohol
This 100% Cab Franc has good heft and plenty of pizzazz. Aromas of strawberry, rhubarb compote and floral notes provide segue into a substantial mouthful of racy tang—red currant and sour cherry—streaking across the palate with piquant spice and a solid spine of acidity. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a crisp, refreshing, mouth-watering finish. Pours and pairs well with white pizza, roast chicken and pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)


Huff Estates Riesling ‘off dry’ 2012
VQA Ontario $17.95 (155606) 12.0% alcohol
There’s great tang and an abundance of crisp, refreshing flavour in this mid weight, creamy-smooth gem. Ripe peach, pear and apple interweave with mineral notes and exotic spice heralding a gusher of gorgeous lemon-lime, green apple and ripe tropical fruit that bathes the palate and persists through the lingering, lip-smacking finish. Pours well on its own as well as alongside spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Montes Twins Malbec / Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
DO Colchagua Valley, Chile $12.95 (352054) 14.0% alcohol
This equal Malbec / Cab red blend has good balance, oodles of fruit and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish. Red cherry and red currant flavours persist throughout with generous texture and interesting toasty notes and roasted herbs on the aftertaste. It complements burgers, pizza, wings and fajitas—good value, too. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

White Wine

Huff Estates ‘South Bay Vineyards – Unoaked Chardonnay’ 2012
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
This is a single-vineyard gem with aromas of ripe apple, pear and undertones of minerality. It bathes the palate with crisp, green apple, lemon yoghurt and oodles of racy tang. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish and aftertaste—clean, crisp and refreshing. Pour with pan-seared fish or pork chops with a side of applesauce. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following Tawse wines by the case or mixed case (free delivery over $100) for Monday to Thursday home or office delivery from Tawse.


Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 & 375 mL $19.95 13% alcohol
Certified organic/biodynamic, there’s a layered, perfumed nose of lemon-lime, white flowers and pit fruit with notions of pineapple. Racy minerality and tangy acidity streak across the palate with nerve, verve and sense of purpose. A laser-like line of mineral/limestone and citrus broadens on the mid-palate with ripe, spice-infused apple and pear. Clean, crisp and refreshing, there’s deft balance, mouth-watering flavour and plenty of charm and elegance—top-drawer Chardonnay, not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery ‘Robyn’s Block’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.95 13% alcohol
Certified organic/biodynamic, it was hand-harvested from 29-year-old vines, barrel fermented and aged 12 months in small French oak barrels followed by six months in stainless steel before bottling—it’s one of Canada’s top drops. Faint floral notes mingle with aromas of chalky minerality and pit fruit. It bathes the palate with a riveting wash of key lime, steely mineral tones and lip-smacking citrus tang. It’s medium bodied with generous texture and a lingering, austere finish and aftertaste that’s nicely balanced with orchard fruit peeking through wisps of oak. A stellar wine at this stage, it will no doubt improve in bottle over the next decade. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $37.95 13% alcohol
Certified organic/biodynamic, this was sourced from separate Estate vineyards. It’s complex and well structured with good depth and delineation. Aromas of minerality, mandarin zest and key lime herald a gorgeous gusher of mineral-flecked tang—lime cordial, lemongrass and notions of racy grapefruit. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a stunning finish and aftertaste—lip-smacking citrus and green apple interweave with minerality and wisps of sweet oak—well worth seeking out. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

Tawse Winery Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13% alcohol
This single-vineyard offering dishes up an alluring nose of sandalwood and roasted herbs announcing a tangy line of sour cherry and red currant fleshing out to riper berry fruit on the mid palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a chalky, drying aftertaste wreathed in still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with a mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $31.95 13.5% alcohol
Black currant and spice aromas open this mid-bodied, nicely textured gem. It races across the palate with great tang and lively red fruit flavours garnished with pipe tobacco and wild herbs. There’s structure, balance and purity of fruit along with delicate touches of charm and elegance. It finishes persistent and consistent, replaying palate flavours and charm. Aerate/decant two hours and pour alongside rare-grilled skirt steak with root veggies and mushroom whiskey cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Sparkling Wine

Bocchino Moscato d’Asti 2012
DOCG Moscato d’Asti, Italy $19.95 5.5% alcohol
It’s light on its feet with plenty of white peach, poached pear and honeyed apple on the palate and gorgeous, fizzy finish. Low in alcohol—only 5.5% alc./vol.—and high on the delightful scale, pour on its own as a terrific party starter or pair with fruit flan or other fruit desserts. Fashioned for fun and frivolity, this furnishes floral fragrance and frothy fruit flavours. Its good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

Conca di Olevà ‘Castello Erguri’ ‘Rosso’ 2011 

IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $21.95 13.5% alcohol
This is a delightful red blend with Cannonau leading the way. The delicate nose offers lilac, spice and mixed field berry fruit aromas. Copious flavours of red cherry and ripe black berry mingle with sour cherry and mint-infused red currant on the palate persisting through the lip-smacking finish. There’s a lick of tannin here—aerate/decant three hours before pouring with pasta in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevà ‘Gluc’ ‘Rosso’ 2011 

IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $15.50 13.5% alcohol
An eclectic blend of indigenous and international varieties, this dishes up a lively nose of exotic spice, red cherry and charred toast. Racy red raspberry and tangy red currant streak across the palate wreathed in savory herbs and wisps of tannin. This is nicely balanced and full of nerve and verve with a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Serve with meat-laden pizza after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevà ‘Grimatt’ ‘Rosso’ 2012 

IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $35.95 13.0% alcohol
This single-varietal beauty was fashioned from an indigenous Sardinian grape—Cagnulari. Sandalwood, exotic spice and mint-infused dark berry fruit aromas open a rich and robust river of juicy tang and ripe cherry and dark, juicy berry fruit interlaced with tobacco and notions of mocha. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and plenty of oomph and character on the finish and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevà ‘Salto Gios’ ‘Rosso’ 2010 

IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $29.50 13.0% alcohol
Black plum and dried currant aromas presage a creamy smooth wash of roasted herbs, tangy acidity and rich, ripe dollops of cassis and black currant garnished with sour cherry and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s medium weight with great balance and a mid-length aftertaste showcasing good tang, oodles of dried currant, espresso roast and baking spice. Pour with osso bucco or rich hearty, stew. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan