November 21, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – 5 of the 50 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; two in the Release, the balance following, easily identified by the icon. What are the strict, quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com and click on the ‘Rating System’ tab.
• Vic’s Personal Picks – Santa Carolina ‘Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2010 4 stars @ $14.95 under Chile: White Wine and Hauller ‘Muenchberg’ Riesling 2011 4½ stars @ $21.95 under France: White Wine
• 5-star wines – 9 rang the 5-star bell and you’ll understand why so many when you see some of the names and prices. However, in the release under Argentina: Red Wine there’s the ‘Versado’ Malbec Reserva for $59.95 and following the release in the Private Order section, Nokhrin Agency will deliver a case to you of the Pelassa ‘Sot’ Nebbiolo at $24.50 a bottle.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: November 23, 2013

Fortified Wine: Port

Offley ‘10 Year Old’ Tawny Port
DOC Douro $25.95 (297788) 20.0% alcohol
This is offley good Tawny Port—well priced and delicious. Aromas of spice cake and caramel herald a sweet, palate-coating stream of baking spice-laced nectar interweaving with espresso roast, treacle and nutty nuances that persist through the delectable aftertaste. Versatile at the table, pour with consommé, crème brulée, pecan pie or on its own, room temperature or slightly chilled. (Vic Harradine)


Quinta Do Portal Vintage Port 2003
DOC Douro $58.95 (345041) 20.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe and robust, this delivers an alluring nose of spice box, black licorice and dark cherry. It rolls over the palate in powerful waves with kirsch liqueur, cassis and black plum compote interlaced with notions of mocha and dark berry fruit. Waves of tannin wash over the finish and aftertaste making this a candidate for popping corks in 2030 and well beyond. Given the price of quality Vintage Port, it’s great value. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Champagne Brut

AOC Champagne $271.95 (038562) 12.0% alcohol

This is forward, full bodied and from, arguably, the planet’s premium producer of bubbly. It’s also Krug’s flagship, age worthy cuvée. Typically, Krug Grande Cuvée is blended from as many as 50 wines from the three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and from six to ten different vintages. Baking brioche and clove-infused lemon aromas segue bold and beautiful flavours—spiced green apple, citrus and yellow peach—proffered on a generously textured bed of fine, pin-point effervescence that’s persistent and refreshing through the robust and lengthy finish. This has the structure and character to pair well with a festive bird—this year or any from now to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Roederer Estate Brut Rosé

Anderson Valley, Estate Btld. $35.95 (479758) 12.0% alcohol

Just the slightest tinge of pink here, but the flavours are lively and racy. The bouquet’s lifted and zesty with generous helpings of citrus and spice. There’s a huge mousse attack on the medium-textured palate delivering zingy flavours of green apple and white grapefruit. The lengthy finish is reminiscent of Granny Smith apple. This would pair very well with seafood and pasta in a creamy white sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut

New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol

Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Deliance ‘Ruban Vert Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (355917) 12.0% alcohol
This is well paced and well priced. Golden-yellow hued, it opens with lively aromas of mineral, floral and yeasty notes. It’s creamy smooth on the palate with lovely mouth feel and great tension between ripe apple and pear and wonderful lemon acidity. There’s plenty of glorious bubbles and a boatload of charm and seduction. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing, just the wine for welcoming guests and pouring with passed-around nibblies. (Vic Harradine)


Castello Del Poggio ‘Dolce’ Brachetto
DOC Piedmont $16.95 (101345) 7.0% alcohol
Here’s a medium-sweet, light-on-its-feet, aperitif sparkler that everyone will enjoy, especially whoever pony’d up at the checkout—hard to find better at this price. Burnt caramel, fresh strawberry and raspberry on the nose, it tingles and tantalizes the palate with lively fresh flavour—ripe, red berry fruit and excellent moderating acidity. It’s a winner before or after the meal with low alcohol appealing and responsible. (Vic Harradine)


Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry

DOC Prosecco $19.95 (729392) 11.5% alcohol

A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol

Mid weight with an incredibly long aftertaste, this is charming, complex and made for Riesling aficionados and ordinary wine lovers like you and me. Aromas of floral notes, citrus, notions of minerality and hints of honey are precursor to a dazzling river of pungent, juicy lemon curd, blood orange and key lime pie streaking over the palate. It’s dripping with riveting tang and lip-smacking acidity that’s balanced beautifully with ripe pear, green apple and yellow plum. (Vic Harradine)


Peninsula Ridge ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (211490) 12.0% alcohol
The heady nose of exotic spice, mandarin orange, green apple and lemon zest provide segue to a mid-weight, well-textured river of green apple, key lime and racy lemon tang. It finishes in a blaze with toasty notes interspersed with yellow peach and crisp, clean acidity on the finish and lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside pan-seared fish or sea food. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Folie à Deux Chardonnay 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $19.95 (146951) 13.9% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, kitchen spice and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas presage a medium-bodied nicely textured mouthful of flavour with racy lemon, crisp green apple and tropical fruit to the fore. It finishes clean and refreshing. This has the goods to pair well with breaded, sautéed calamari rings or verjus-sprinkled arugula and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine) 

California: Red Wine

J. Lohr ‘Hilltop Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Paso Robles $39.95 (686584) 14.9% alcohol
This hedonist’s delight dishes up full-bore aromas and a delicious, fully flavoured mouthful of rich and robust ambrosia. Dark berry fruit and rich Bing cherry aromas interlace with mint and toasty notes on the heady nose. Palate-coating flavours abound with complex, rich, layered waves of cassis, dark juicy cherry, spice and espresso roast . It’s mid-full bodied with great texture and a beautiful and balanced, lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)


Kunde Zinfandel 2010
Sonoma Valley $22.95 (965921) 14.8% alcohol
Charred toast, sprigs of herbs and baking spice aromas presage a tangy, juicy river of mouth-watering flavour—red currant and sour cherry mingling with riper briary berry and plum compote—that persists through the racy, balanced finish. It’s medium bodied with good complexity and oodles of charm. There’s good value to be had here. (Vic Harradine)


Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $89.95 (119065) 14.8% alcohol
Alluring from cork pop to last drop, it opens with aromas of rose petals, espresso roast and toasty notes. Complex and rich throughout, a stream of bramble berry, dark juicy cherry and roasted herbs bathe the palate infusing the lingering, balanced, delicious aftertaste. Medium-plus bodied and creamy smooth, it shows good structure, a solid tannin underpinning and poise with touches of elegance and plenty of fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Peachy Canyon ‘Westside’ Zinfandel 2011
Paso Robles $26.95 (930644) 15.0% alcohol
Dark chocolate, rich black berry fruit and spice aromas herald a racy, tangy line of red currant, passion fruit and cranberry interwoven with riper dark berry fruit. It’s mid weight with decent texture and a lip-smacking, savory herb finish bolstered by a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring beside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Toasted Head ‘Barrel Aged’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
North Coast $19.95 (686824) 13.5% alcohol
There are perfumed aromas of wood smoke, savory herbs and mixed spice on the nose of this medium-bodied California Cab. Palate-bathing flavours of red and black cherry interweave with baking spice and charred toast before replaying on the lingering finish and aftertaste. Good to go now with thick, slow-roasted, pulled-pork sandwiches. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Catena Zapata ‘Nicasia Vineyard’ Malbec 2009
La Consulta, Uco Valley, Mendoza $87.95 (132357) 14.0% alcohol
Catena is one of those names you can fully trust; if you see a label with nothing but their name, you can buy it. There’s a lot going on with this mid-weight beauty, it’s nicely structured, balanced and complex with touches of elegance—the perfect gift for the wine-lover on your list. Black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry meld seamlessly with roasted herbs, mocha and pipe tobacco on the palate and lingering, lip-smacking finish. There’s a hint of tannin, easily resolved by a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Malbec 2010
Mendoza $19.95 (50849) 15.0% alcohol
Smooth, mellow and balanced, it still has a rich flow of fruit, ample structure and a boatload of charm. Briary berry, espresso roast and incense on the nose, it glides across the palate with dark, juicy cherry and black currant interwoven with spice-infused tangy red cherry and notions of toasted oak and gamy bits. The aftertaste is lengthy, luxurious and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Salentein ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza $17.95 (640854) 14.5% alcohol
Rustic and ready to go, it bustles from the glass with heady aromas of bacon, mocha and berry fruit. Black Bing cherry and dark berry fruit mingle with an excellent line of acidity and mixed spice on the palate. It’s medium weight and underpinned by grainy tannin and has good focus throughout. Pair with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza $19.95 (79798) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of forest floor, espresso roast and notions of gunflint/minerality provide entrance to a lively wash of red cherry, cassis and bittersweet chocolate topped off with sweet vanilla and ripe berry fruit. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Exhibiting complexity, depth and good structure, it dishes up good value and the opportunity to cellar—pop corks now after a two-hour aeration/decant or 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Versado ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2010
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $59.95 (316984) 14.2% alcohol
This is top-drawer red and worth every penny—it’s rich, elegant, complex and layered. Fashioned from low-yielding, ungrafted vines, hand picked, hand sorted, cold soaked, basket pressed, 14 months in new French oak, barrel selected then bottled unfiltered. Aromas and flavours abound with cracked pepper, piquant spice, black plum compote and black currant to the fore. It’s fully flavoured and fully textured with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

Santa Carolina ‘Gran Reserva’ Chardonnay 2010
Casablanca Valley $14.95 (928580) 14.5% alcohol
Exotic spice and incense with toasty/oaky notes dominate the nose. Sweet, ripe fruit—peach, pear and apple—wash over the mid-palate joined by a line of tangy, citrus acidity on the back palate, finish and aftertaste. There’s a touch of oak present, as well. It’s full flavoured, mid weight, nicely textured and chockfull of value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

d’Arenberg ‘The Footbolt’ Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (984021) 14.1% alcohol
Unfined and unfiltered, this has aromas of peppery spice, mocha and black licorice heralding mid-full bodied, gorgeously textured waves of cassis, ripe mulberry and bramble berry interlaced with spice and bittersweet chocolate. It finishes dry, mouth watering and fruit laden with a wisp of still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours serving with grilled rack of lamb. d’Arenberg is a member of Australia’s prestigious First Families of Wine. (Vic Harradine)


Elderton ‘Command Single Vineyard’ Shiraz 2009
Barossa Valley $89.95 (716142) 14.5% alcohol
This is one of Australia’s highly collectible reds—it’s listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of the respected Langton’s Classification. This is phenomenal—meaty, gamy, rich and robust. Lifted and lively aromas of baking spice, toasted oak, berry fruit and black licorice abound. It spills over the palate with mid-plus weight and creamy smooth mouth feel—black currant, kirsch liqueur and dark briary berry interweave with a lively line of moderating acidity and a perceptible tannic structure. It finishes balanced and lengthy with notions of raw bacon, dark chocolate and ripe fruit. Pop corks 2015 to 2025. (Vic Harradine)


Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2010 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (236257) 14.5% alcohol 

Heady aromas of Asian spice, leather and mixed field berry fruit herald a balanced, nicely textured wash of cassis, kirsch liqueur and sweet, briary berry. It’s medium-full bodied with depth and structure. The finish is fruit forward and lengthy wreathed in supple tannin. Pour alongside grilled and smoked back ribs slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz 2010 

Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria $35.95 (243592) 14.5% alcohol 

Aromas of cherry, cracked black pepper and mixed kitchen spice provide segue for a juicy, tangy stream of red currant and sour cherry mingling with mulberry and blueberry streaming over the palate. It’s mid-full weight with medium texture and a racy, lip-smacking finish underpinned by perceptible tannin. Pop corks after careful cellaring, 2015 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)


Pillar Box ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

Padthaway $20.95 (199745) 14.5% alcohol 

Showcasing blackberry and cassis, cedar, spice and herbs, this dry, medium-full bodied wine is generous yet balanced with ripe tannin and fine acidity. Attractive dark fruit surges to the fore on the palate, the notes of spice and dried herbs underlying. There’s a fresh, lively texture to the dry tasty finish. A crowd-pleaser that can be enjoyed now or over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Merlot 2012 

Hawkes Bay $18.95 (692343) 13.0% alcohol 

This is a reliably good, dry, mid-full weight Merlot showcasing smoky, toasty, spicy cherry/berry and plum fruit. Nicely balanced, ripe tannins and lively acidity frame concentrated raspberry, black cherry and plum. There’s a touch of spice and a notion of chocolate-coated cherries through the clean, fruity finish. Serve with herbed roast loin of pork. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Hauller ‘Muenchberg’ Riesling 2011
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $19.95 (360370) 12.5% alcohol
Citrus, mineral/slate notes and mixed orchard fruit aromas set the stage for a glorious wash of ripe pear, yellow plum and off-dry white peach and nectarine flowing over the palate. It’s structured, medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and just plain delicious. It finishes lengthy, balanced and beautiful with a great price for a wine with the Grand Cru Muenchberg—mountain of Monks—pedigree. Give it a go with freshwater fish pan-seared in a dot or two of butter. (Vic Harradine)


Ruhlmann ‘Vieille Vignes’ Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $19.95 (982082) 13.0% alcohol
This is classic Gewürtz—perfumed aromas, oodles of spice and a welcomed bite on the aftertaste. Exotic incense, rosewater and piquant spice aromas open the floodgates for a gorgeously textured, mid-weight surge of palate-coating ripe pear, white peach and lemon-lime cordial interplaying with piquant ginger and red licorice. It finishes balanced and lengthy with a grapefruit pith note on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


La Chablisienne Montmains Chablis 1er Cru 2010
AOC Chablis $28.95 (265090) 13.0% alcohol
This 1er Cru Chablis shows structure, depth and great sense of purpose. Classic aromas of mineral/flint/slate, yellow apple and plum herald a sleek, racy line of lemon-lime, minerality and crisp green apple on the palate persisting through the tangy, mouth watering finish and aftertaste. Paired and poured perfectly with freshly shucked Malpeques. (Vic Harradine)


Pierre Luneau-Papin ‘Clos des Allées’ Muscadet Sévre et Maine, Sur Lie 2012
AOP Muscadet Sévre et Maine, Sur Lie $18.95 (357327) 12.0% alcohol
This is clean, crisp and refreshing; exactly what you’d expect, given the appellation. Aromas of rising bread dough, lively citrus and notions of white flowers announce a searing line of crisp, Granny Smith apple and racy lemon acidity streaking over the palate infusing the mouth-watering, refreshing finish. Pour with sushi, sashimi or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château du Chatelard ‘Cuvée Les Vieux Granits’ Fleurie 2011
AOP Fleurie $20.95 (207886) 13.0% alcohol
Fleurie is one of ten special areas in Beaujolais where you can expect top-notch Gamay and this certainly doesn’t disappoint. Aromas of lilac, mixed spice and field berry fruit introduce a line of red berry fruit and sour cherry racing across the palate, infusing the lip-smacking, dry finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside a mixed deli platter and a warm baguette. (Vic Harradine)


Château d’Anglés ‘Grand Vin’ 208
AOC Languedoc La Clape $20.95 (286492) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of tar, roasted herbs and dark coffee presage a rich and robust surge of black berry, cassis and dark, juicy cherry coating the palate infusing the lengthy finish. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel, complexity, depth and charm. The aftertaste layers on gamy notes and spice. Pour with slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 14.5% alcohol
This is the real deal, year after year, it shines above others in the C-d-P region. Garrigue, cedar, sweet vanilla, earthiness and dark cherry aromas provide segue for a palate-bathing wash of bramble berry, ripe mulberry and mixed field berry fruit. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a lengthy finish that’s fruit flavoured, balanced and charming. Good to go now after a three-hour decant and on to +2025—pour with grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Cros de Romet Cairanne Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Cairanne $23.95 (42986) 17.0% alcohol
Cairanne is often thought to produce the top ‘village’ wine of the 20 or so villages listed. Aromas of über ripe fruit and exotic spice give way to a palate-drenching stream of ripe dark plum and berry fruit garnished with spice and garrigue. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a complex, warm finish of black currant, sandalwood and peppery herbs and spice. At 17% alcohol/volume, you may consider smaller pours. (Vic Harradine)


Xavier Côtes du Rhône 2010
AOP Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (297317) 14.5% alcohol
Smoky, oaky and local spice and herb aromas abound heralding a mid-weight, gorgeously textured river of cassis and kirsch liqueur mingling with local herbs and baking spice. It’s well paced, balanced and charming with oodles of ripe fruit, good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant this value-packed red for two hours pouring alongside burgers, pizza or wings. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ Riesling Kabinett 2011
Prädikatswein $24.95 (189175) 8.0% alcohol
Off-dry and right on target, it jumps from the glass with heady aromas of pit fruit, racy citrus and wisps of mineral. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a river of fruit on the palate—spice-infused peach, honeyed pear and baked apple all make an appearance. It finishes with good moderating acidity and wonderful sweet and tang. Pair with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Santa Margherita ‘Impronta del Fondatore’ Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Alto Adige $21.95 (231258) 13.5% alcohol
A ‘big brother’ to the Vintages Essentials Pinot Grigio, this lovely Italian white offers up a perfumed nose of floral, spice and pit fruit aromas. Peach, pear and nectarine dance on the palate delivered on a platter of medium weight and creamy texture. It finishes fruit-forward and mouth-watering. Pour alongside white pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Michele Chiarlo ‘Le Marne’ Gavi 2012
DOCG Piedmont $15.95 (228528) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of perfumed honeysuckle interweave with notes of slate and minerality. This is medium weight with good mouth feel and a solid spine of crisp refreshing acidity throughout. Key lime, Meyer lemon and hints of grapefruit and pineapple persist on the palate, finish and mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s easy on the wallet and pours well with pan-seared fish or shellfish. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Aldiano ‘Riserva’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $18.95 (51706) 14.0% alcohol
Exotic incense, cedar and dark berry fruit on the nose, it dishes up a highly perfumed wash of sweet vanilla, dark juicy cherry, briary berry with notions of tobacco and mixed spice. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a lengthy finish reminiscent of spice-infused, chocolate-dipped black cherries. There’s very good value in this. (Vic Harradine)


Jerzu Chuèrra ‘Riserva’ Cannonau di Sardegna 2008
DOC Cannonau di Sardegna $16.95 (270272) 13.5% alcohol
Rustic, meaty and gamy, this bustles from the glass with aromas of bacon, aromatic bitters and espresso roast. This has a boatload of flavour and texture on a medium-weight frame with dark field berry fruit and red cherry mingling with mocha and spice. It’s generously textured with a lengthy aftertaste cloaked in still-resolving tannin. Aerate decant for two hours pouring with pasta puttanesca or pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Antinori ‘Solaia’ 2010
IGT Toscana $251.95 (987586) 14.5% alcohol
A wine for the ages, tuck this away for 20-plus years. Aromas of spice cake, ripe, juicy Bing cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry dazzle the senses. Showcasing complexity and structure with balance and charm, the palate’s bathed with a glorious rush of briary berry, black cherry and an amalgam of truffles, licorice, tobacco and graphite. The lingering aftertaste shows fruit, acidity and a great tannin underpinning. Drink 2015 to +2040. (Vic Harradine)


Rocca Di Castagnoli ‘Poggio A’Frati’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (23358) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of spice, charred toast and cherry/berry fruit waft easily from this riveting red. It glides over the palate like an Olympic skater, seamless and smooth with red currant and sour cherry set off nicely with cassis and kirsch liqueur. It’s nicely textured, tangy and juicy on the lingering finish and lip-smacking aftertaste—with each sip besting the previous. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2009 

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (091694) 13.5% alcohol 

Red cherry, gamy and wood smoke on the nose, a spirited wash of tangy sour cherry and black currant mingle with cherry toast and spice on the palate. It’s well paced with good focus of flavour and a lingering aftertaste of red cherry and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with meat-laden red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Campolongo Di Torbe’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (548677) 16.0% alcohol
As trusted a name as to be found in the wine world, this Masi delivers in spades—it’s ripe, balanced, delectable. Aromas of figs, raisins and mixed field berry fruit trumpet a creamy smooth, mid-weight river of palate-coating flavour—black currant, cassis and red cherry interplay with dried currant and leather. It finishes in a blaze of fruit, acidity and supple tannin. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant poured on its own or alongside osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Amarone Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (215764) 16.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, tobacco and black licorice aromas provide entry for a satiny-smooth river of sweet, ripe mulberry and black currant interweaving with spearmint mint and baking spice on the palate. It’s medium weight with a lingering complex finish of dark, ripe, cherry/berry fruit, black plum compote and notions of tar and savory herbs. The price is up there, but it’s worth it. (Vic Harradine)


Remo Farina Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2011
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $17.95 (999946) 13.5% alcohol
The complex nose opens with sharp red cherry, spice, tobacco, tarry notes and anise aromas. It streaks across the palate with nerve and verve, all racy and tangy from sour cherry and red currant garnished with piquant spice and dried berry fruit. This is medium bodied with a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Maritávora Tinto 2008
DOC Douro $16.95 (293449) 14.0% alcohol
Fashioned from three of the top grapes commonly used in making Port, this is a rich and robust red with plenty of power and depth. Aromas of wood smoke, tar and dark berry fruit presage a concentrated gusher of black currant and cassis bolstered by good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s medium-full weight with a generous mouth feel and fruit-forward finish infused with spice, dark chocolate and notions of dark coffee. Aerate/decant for three hours or pull corks 2015 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Alion 2009
DO Ribera del Douro $216.95 1500 mL (50534) 14.5% alcohol
Owned by Spain’s most prestigious winery, Vega Sicilia, Alion is meant to be consumed earlier and to deliver a more fruit-forward, Tempranillo-based wine. Despite that, it will easily age another 5 years. Blueberry, plum and black currant aromas mingle with tar and baking spice. It flows across the palate with ripe, juicy cherry, currant and mulberry along with notions of sweet vanilla and cherry clafoutie persisting through the lengthy finish. There are still resolving tannins and hints of 12 months spent in oak, easily handled with a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)


Condado De Haza Crianza 2009
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (963348) 14.5% alcohol
Winery owner, Alejandro Fernández, is Spain’s doyen of Tempranillo. He has 500 acres of prime vineyards along the Duero River in Ribera del Duero. Aromas of exotic incense, perfumed floral notes and rich black berry intro a creamy-smooth wash of mid-weight ambrosia with red and black cherry and black plum interwoven with mineral notes and toasty bits. The dry finish reveals wisps of tannin and good moderating acidity. Balanced on a pin, it will pour well now to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Generation Seven ‘#Je Suis Arrivé’ Nouveau 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $11.95 (318600) 12.5% alcohol
Lively spice and red grape aromas set the stage for a fruit-laden mouthful of cherry/berry flavours garnished with spice and the thrill of your initial tasting of a red wine from 2013. This is a wine made for fun—pour this Gamay slightly chilled with friends and a deli platter— stinky cheese, spicy olives, deli meat, dill pickles, cherry tomatoes, pickled onions, a baguette. Don't think, just drink; in moderation, of course. (Vic Harradine)


Lodez Chardonnay/Viognier Non-vintage
Product of France $12.65 (333963) 12.5% alcohol
Eye-catching graphics introduce this new 50/50 Chardonnay/Viognier blend. Ripe apple, pineapple and peach cobbler on the nose, it bathes the palate with baked apple, yellow plum, lemon citrus and wisps of white grapefruit tang. Expect mid weight and decent texture with a balanced aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with confidence alongside roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Sparkling Wine

Occhino Moscato d’Asti 2012
DOCG Moscato d’Asti, Italy $19.95 5.5% alcohol
It’s light on its feet with plenty of white peach, poached pear and honeyed apple on the palate and gorgeous, fizzy finish. Low in alcohol—only 5.5% alc./vol.—and high on the delightful scale, pour on its own as a terrific party starter or pair with fruit flan or other fruit desserts. Fashioned for fun and frivolity, this furnishes floral fragrance and frothy fruit flavours. It's good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)

White Wine

Conca di Olevà ‘Sorilis’ Vermentino 2012
IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $23.95 12.5% alcohol
This Vermentino, from an artisan producer in N. Sardinia, dishes up aromas of peach, tropical fruit and wisps of rosewater. There’s a delicate wash of binned apple, white nectarine and fresh grape flavours playing on the palate persisting through the lengthy, balanced, refreshing finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel. Lovely sipped on its own or poured with fish or shellfish. (Vic Harradine)


Conca di Olevà ‘Racal’ 2012
IGP Colli del Limbara, Sardinia, Italy $25.95 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of lychee fruit, sprigs of herbs and incense provide segue to a huge mouthful of soft, pit fruit—peach, nectarine and plum—interweaving with caramelized pineapple and lemon yoghurt. It’s tangy, crisp and chockfull of flavour and charm. It has good weight and texture and a structured, lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

Pelassa ‘Antaniolo’ ‘Riserva’ Roero 2011

DOCG Roero, Italy $32.95 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas glide from the glass of this lovely Nebbiolo—lilac, black licorice and red cherry. The palate’s treated to a gusher of red currant and red cherry mingling with riper mulberry and black currant garnished with spice and notions of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a blaze of good acidity on the finish and aftertaste; it’s lip-smacking good throughout. Very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Pelassa ‘Bricco Enrichetta’ Langhe 2012

DOC Langhe, Italy $16.95 14.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, pipe tobacco and notions of sandalwood open this balanced, gorgeous Barbera. It’s brimming with fruit—red cherry, dried currant and wisps of kirsch liqueur on the palate persisting through the lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with great purity of fruit throughout. A step above most; the price can’t be beat. (Vic Harradine)


Pelassa ‘Sot’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2011

DOCG Nebbiolo d’Alba, Italy $24.50 14.0% alcohol
This over-delivers at every step; it’s rich and complex with great depth and complexity, structured and charming. It dazzles from the first sip, coating the palate with creamy smooth, dark berry fruit and spice persisting through the complex, balanced finish. Mid weight with good mouth feel and charm, it builds on the palate, irresistible and elegant. It was quite tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)


Pelassa ‘San Pancrazio - Superiore’ Barbera d’Alba 2010 

DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $21.50 14.5% alcohol
Buttered toast, incense and leather aromas provide segue for a tangy, racy surge of red fruit—cherry, currant and strawberry—streaking across the palate with racy acidity, great nerve and verve. It’s delightful on the palate and dazzling on the lengthy, balanced, delicious aftertaste. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta puttensca. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan