November 6, 2013 Newsletter
Most unfortunately, the wines for the November 9 Vintages Release are not available in Ottawa for tasting prior to November 9. What follows are reviews of wines in this release that were previously published along with a selection of wines available from other sections of the LCBO and from easily sourced, dependable Ontario wineries who will deliver, by the case, to your home or office.
Highlights include:
- Exceptional value wines
– only two of the wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; Château des Arroucats 2010 with 4½ stars @ $16.95 under New in the LCBO Portfolio and Tawse Vineyard ‘Limestone Ridge - Spark’ Riesling Brut earning 5 stars @ $24.95 and found under the New in Ontario Wineries banner, both after the Vintages release. - Vic’s Premium Picks – Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2010 4½ stars at $24.95 in the release and Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage 4½ stars at $22.95 under New in Ontario Wineries.
- 5-star wines – only two rang the 5-star bell: Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 @ $130. found as the first wine reviewed below and Tawse Vineyard ‘Limestone Ridge - Spark’ Riesling Brut @ $24.95 also earning a and found under the New in Ontario Wineries banner after the Vintages release.
- 2011 Vintage Port - To order futures of this scintillating vintage, contact the LCBO help line 1 800 668 5226 to pre-order. The 2011 Fonseca Vintage Port reviewed below and others are on offer, but you’ll have to act quickly.
LCBO Hours for Remembrance Day
On Remembrance Day, Monday, November 11, LCBO stores will open at noon until their normal closing hours. The exception is the Ottawa Region, where LCBO stores will not open until 12:30 p.m. due to Remembrance Day events in the National Capital Region. LCBO agency stores observe their normal hours of business on November 11.
The LCBO head office in Toronto will be closed on Monday, November 11, in recognition of Remembrance Day. However, the toll-free, bilingual helloLCBO Contact Centre at 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226) or online at hellolcbo.com will be available to customers seeking information on individual store hours on Monday, November 11. In Toronto, call 416 365-5900. The TTY number for people who are deaf or hard of hearing is 416 864-6898 or 1-800-361-3291.
Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.
Fonseca Vintage Port 2011
DOC Oporto, Portugal $130.00 (362244) 20.0% alcohol
From the stunning 2011 vintage, this barrels from the glass with heady aromas of lilac, cedar, licorice and graphite. It spills over the palate with gusto and great purity of fruit—black berry and dark cherry—interlaced with focused sense of purpose, moderating acidity and notions of cassis and mocha. Underpinned by a firm tannin base, think about opening in 25 years and beyond. Compared to futures of Bordeaux reds, this is a bargain given the quality. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: November 9, 2013
Fortified Wine: Sherry
Lustau ‘Peninsula’ Solera Reserva Palo Cortado
DO Jerez $17.95 (375 mL) (677856)
An exotic offering from Emilio Lustau, the vaunted producer of quality Sherry. Nutty and spicy on the nose and palate, you’ll find this medium-bodied, copper-coloured glorious nectar simply stunning. This is tangy, yet offers a generous texture and diversity of structure and character that was gained from its age and multi-vintage roots. It finishes clean with hints of coffee and chocolate. Serve slightly chilled as a welcoming wine or dinner aperitif for very special guests; also the perfect match to consommé. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wine: Mead
Rosewood Mead ‘Royale’ 2008
Product of Canada $14.95 (296178) 500 mL 12.5% alcohol
Straw hued, the subtle aromas of this slightly sweeter mead include savoury, slightly pungent notes, honey and a floral note reminiscent of summer clover. Lush and silky in texture, the palate is elegantly restrained—preserved apricot, herbal notes and subtle honey flavours dominate. An intriguing marriage of a dry texture and sweet, tangy flavours, it works well between courses or after dinner with Canadian cheddar. (Susan Desjardins)
Champagne
Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Réserve’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $59.95 (036962) 12.0% alcohol
From the house made famous by ‘Champagne Charlie’, this blossoms forth with a bouquet of baking brioche, tree fruit and an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles adorned with crisp, lip-smacking flavour. Golden yellow-hued, there’s a lovely array of lively refreshing flavours with zesty citrus, mineral notes and white peach to the fore. One can never go far wrong with a bottle of this and freshly shucked oysters. As Champagne prices go, this offers great value. (Vic Harradine)
Möet & Chandon ‘Grand Vintage Brut Rosé’ Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $89.95 (69831) 12.5% alcohol
Salmon-hued and boasting rich, lifted aromas of brioche, leesy notes and red berry fruit, it’s well balanced and structured with oodles of charm. It glides across the plate on an endless frothy mousse of small-bead bubbles and a generous spray of tangy red currant and ripe, ruby red grapefruit mingling with crisp lemony tones. It finishes lip-smacking good—drink now to 2020 with pan-seared salmon or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava
Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight in an elegant hand-blown bottle with a pewter crest and base, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
Hidden Bench ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $28.95 (068817) 13.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, this wild-yeast-fermented, lo-yield—barely one ton/acre—gem is best described as stylish, robust and absolutely delicious. It jumps from the glass with baking spice, mineral and toasty oak aromas as harbingers of a fully flavoured, fully textured river of ripe orchard fruit—apple, peach, pear—and crisp, refreshing, lemon acidity unfurling on the palate, dominating the lengthy, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2010
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this rips from the blocks with gorgeous aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, tar, dark chocolate and wisps of tomato leaf. Palate-coating flavours abound with racy pomegranate and ripe, briary berry interwoven with spice-infused black plum. It’s full bodied and fully textured with oodles of structure and tangy acidity. The lengthy aftertaste doesn’t let you down, more of the same… in spades. Baco doesn’t get much better than this—put a couple in the cart. (Vic Harradine)
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 14.0% alcohol
A blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot fermented and aged separately an average of 16 months in oak barrels. Roasted herbs, dark chocolate and anise on the nose, this washes in fully textured waves over the palate with bright red cherry, sweet mulberry and a smidgen of black pepper. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced throughout with a lingering aftertaste of briary berry and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
Lodi $17.95 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
An aromatic nose of cloves and ripe berry fruit provides segue for a rich, ripe river of sweet jammy flavour coating the palate, infusing the lengthy aftertaste. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a favourable price point. A young Zin, there’s unresolved tannin lurking underneath that’s easily handled with a two-hour aeration/decant. Drink now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)
Seghesio Zinfandel 2011
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 14.8% alcohol
A moderately priced California Zin offering good value and plenty of rich, luscious fruit-forward tang—some of the fruit in here was sourced from vines planted in 1895. There’s good weight and mouth feel presaged by lifted aromas of spice-infused red cherry and juicy bramble berry. Sweet, ripe mulberry and cassis mingle with espresso roast and spice through the endless finish. It’s put together deftly and all adds up to a top drop. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Cicchitti ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2004
Mendoza $21.95 (155713) 14.0% alcohol
Deep-purple hued and alluringly aromatic, this wine offers an irresistible nose of sweet, dark, ripe berry fruit, toast, spice and earthy notes. Dry and medium-full bodied, the dark fruit—black berries and cherries— is quite focused with spice, pepper and toast tantalizing the palate. Mature tannin and fine acidity provide the requisite balance. Enjoy now with hearty grilled fare or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2009
South Australia $44.95 (309625) 14.5% alcohol
One of Australia’s highly collectible reds with a loyal following—it’s listed in the ‘Outstanding’ category of the vaunted ‘Langton’s Classification’. As an experimental wine at Penfolds prior to its first release in 1960, it was stored in a bin numbered 389, hence the name. Minerality, exotic spice and floral notes on the nose, it dishes up terrific value and is not passed over easily. Ripe fruit bathes the palate with complexity and charm—black currant and briary berry embroidered with racy, moderating acidity and an underlying supple tannin structure. Pick up three, opening one in 12 months, one in 2017 and the other in 2020. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Château des Charmes Sparkling ‘Estate Bottled’ Méthode Traditionelle Rosé 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (78055) 12.0% alcohol
Extended skin contact is manifest in the deep rosy pink of this classic sparkling blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Lovely notes of cherry/berry fruit, peach, brioche and floral notes lift from the glass. Fruity, fresh and scintillating, the rich, sweet flavours of the fruit wash across the palate lifted by clean acidity and a refined mousse. A touch of residual sugar brings a hint of red currant jelly to the lingering finish. Delightfully refreshing and flavourful, this versatile, crowd-pleasing wine is a treat on its own, with hors d’oeuvres, or paired with all manner of roast fowl or pork. Pick up a few bottles for the holidays. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Vintages Essentials
J. Lohr ‘Riverstone’ Chardonnay 2012
Arroyo Seco Monterey, California $18.95 (258699) 13.5% alcohol
Stunning aromas of baking spice, exotic incense, baked apple and poached pear herald a creamy, mid-full weight wash of crisp, green apple, racy lemon curd and a cut of grapefruit pith. It’s complex, terrific value, fully flavoured and simply delicious. The aftertaste is lengthy, crisp and refreshing. It’s a Vintages Essentials, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Michael David Vineyards ‘7 Deadly Zins’ Zinfandel 2010
Lodi, California $24.95 (053391) 15.0% alcohol
Right from the get go, this attracts a crowd. Perfumed with aromas of wood smoke, baking spice and dark juicy cherry/berry fruit, it coats the palate with ripe, briary berry, juicy Bing cherry and dark plum jam. It’s mid-full weight with oodles of texture and a lengthy, delectable aftertaste that’s fruit forward, tangy and charming. Poured well with smoked, grilled back ribs mopped with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
• The following wine has a limited time offer of $2.50 off the price listed below from December 5 to December 30, 2013 – pick up a few.
Rodney Strong ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $24.95 (954834) 14.5% alcohol
This is a premium Pinot from the fabulous cool-climate appellation of Russian River Valley. It’s part California with ripe fruit and oodles of it, and part Burgundy with good structure and lip-smacking acidity for excellent balance. There’s red cherry with wisps of red currant and mixed spice on the nose and palate joined by ripe black berry and notions of beetroot on the finish and lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Château des Arroucats 2010
AOC Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, France $16.95 (332593) 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of honeyed mango and nectarine herald a gorgeous mouthful of palate-bathing flavours with poached pear, marzipan and honey-dipped, ripe pear slices. It’s mid weight with lovely mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. This is incredibly versatile at the table—pair with blue cheese, fruit flan, foie gras pâtè or simply sip before or after a meal, dee-licious! (Vic Harradine)
Domaine du Rey Colombard – Sauvignon 2011
IGP Côtes de Gascogne, France $13.95 (335372) 11.5% alcohol
This 70% Colombard, 30% Sauvignon Blanc blend dishes up a nice mouthful of ripe fruit supported by good moderating acidity and lengthy crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste. Aromas of pear, mint and citrus herald a mid-weight, well-textured wash of apple and ripe pear interweaving with pineapple and tangy lemon zest on the palate and refreshing finish. Zippy and clean on its own, it pairs well with sea food or arugula dressed with verjus and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (224766) 13.0% alcohol
Recently disgorged, it’s as fresh as morning dew with trivial differences between this and Champagne other than one—it’s 1/3rd the price. It’s made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the traditional method and spent almost 3 years in bottle on its lees. The fine-bead bubbles are persistent with the mouth-watering aftertaste flavour-laden, crisp and refreshing. The nose and palate are treated to a gorgeous attack of lemon-grapefruit citrus, baking brioche, mineral notes and succulent white peach. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Tawse Vineyard ‘Limestone Ridge - Spark’ Riesling Brut 11.5% 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 11.5% alcohol
Aromas of apple, minerality and floral notes open this stunning bottle of bubbles. There’s a streak of Granny Smith apple, tangy citrus and slate/mineral slashing across the palate, interlaced with lemon-lime, crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering good. There’s plenty of texture and structure throughout. The lingering aftertaste is clean and lip-smacking while layering on hints of ripe pear and racy lime. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Vic Harradine)
Tawse Vineyard ‘Spark’ Brut 2011
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 12.5% alcohol
A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, it bathes the palate with a creamy mouth feel, medium weight and a mouthful of glorious bubbles and flavour. Apple, white nectarine and honeyed pit fruit interweave on the palate and aftertaste mingling with tangy lemon and grilled pineapple. Good structure, a crisp finish and great value here. Pour on its own, as an aperitif or with freshly shucked oysters. . Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Tawse. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic and Susan