October 11, 2013 Newsletter

LCBO stores are closed Thanksgiving Day, Monday October 14, 2013 along with LCBO offices and customer service functions. Regular store hours and customer service commence Tuesday, the following day. Some LCBO agency stores remain open Thanksgiving Monday, best to check before going.

We at winecurrent wish you a very happy Thanksgiving with time spent being with, or thinking about, your friends and family.

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – only 5 of the over 70 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; two in the Main Release under Fortified Wine: Sherry, and South Africa: White Wine; following the Main Release there’s one in New in LCBO Portfolio; one in New in Ontario Wineries, and one in Private Order – all at a price range from $11.95 to $32.85.
• Vic’s Premium Picks – Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 @ 29.95; Paul Clouet ‘Sélection à Bouzy Brut’ Champagne @ $47.95; Tessellae Carignan ‘Old Vines’ Côtes du Roussillon 2011 @ $18.95 and Borsao ‘Tres Pico’ Garnacha 2011 @ $19.95
• 5-star wines – three rang the 5-star bell. Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 2002005 @ $113.95 found in the Napa Feature; Lailey Vineyard ‘Brickyard’ Chardonnay 2012 under New in Ontario Wineries and Franco e Franca Gatteschi Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2010 under Private Order.
• Noteworthy wine agency – offer winecurrent subscribers a 10% discount on your first case ordered from them. They’re under New in Private Order

Over 70 wines tasted, spat and reviewed in this newsletter 


Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: October 12, 2013

Napa Valley Feature

Louise M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $29.95 (232371) 14.5% alcohol
This gorgeous Napa Cab is stylish, delectable and loaded with charm. What’s not to like? Dark, rich berry fruit, wood smoke and lively red cherry aromas precede a rich, robust wash of velvety-smooth, bramble berry and cassis. It’s mid-full weight with deft balance, structure and a very lengthy finish and aftertaste. It flirted with 5-stars and is highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)


Corison Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $113.95 (333328) 13.6% alcohol
In a word, this is elegant. A bouquet of dark cherry, floral notes and sweet vanilla abounds. Intense waves of black currant, kirsch liqueur and spice-laden mulberry coat the palate garnished with notions of mint and anise. It’s full bodied with good mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste of nicely balanced, ripe fruit, good acidity and ripe-tannin underpinning. Drink now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Frank Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $52.95 (246900) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of tobacco, charred toast and roasted herbs introduce a light-medium-bodied, racy wash of ripe, red berry fruit and baking spice streaking across the palate infusing the juicy, dry finish and aftertaste. There’s perceptible tannin here, recommending a two-hour aeration/decant and pouring alongside pasta in tomato sauce—lasagna or pasta Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $39.95 (904532) 14.5% alcohol
Good depth and structure, concentration of flavours and perfect balance are all hallmarks of this iconic Napa producer. Roasted herbs, dark coffee and dark cherry/berry aromas provide segue to a firm and fabulous cascade of black Bing cherry, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry underpinned by still-resolving tannin and notions of sweet vanilla. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a long finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring alongside grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $24.95 (025122) 14.2% alcohol
This Napa Cab dishes up aromas of piquant spice, sprigs of herbs and field berry fruit that herald a tangy stream of sour cherry and red currant garnished with ripe mulberry, fennel and spice. It’s medium bodied and medium textured with a solid line of acidity throughout. It finishes dry and mouth-watering sporting wisps of riper, dark cherry/berry flavour interlaced with mint. Good to go now with Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)


Beringer ‘Private Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $44.95 (026682) 14.7% alcohol
Smooth, mellow, balanced and beautiful, aromas of floral notes, savory herbs and baking spice herald a gusher of palate-bathing, ripe nectarine and green apple interweaving with citrus and pear right through the mouth-watering finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel while touches of elegance and charm abound. (Vic Harradine)


Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $67.95 (045583) 14.8% alcohol
Beautifully structured and underpinned by deftly integrated oak, this washes over the palate in waves of über- ripe apple and pear garnished by a solid line of lemon tang. It’s medium-full weight with a generous texture and long, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside roast chicken or turkey with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)


Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2011
Napa Valley $21.95 (126607) 14.7% alcohol
This shows purity of fruit, good balance and walks a fine line between being rich and concentrated without being overly sweet or jammy. Lifted and lively aromas of dark berry fruit and cherry replay on the palate—juicy black currant mingling with red and black cherry along with wisps of sweet vanilla and bramble berry. It’s mid-full bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and a lingering finish that interweaves just enough moderating acidity for balance; it’s decent value, as well. (Vic Harradine)


Beringer ‘Napa Valley Vineyards’ Pinot Noir 2010
Napa Valley $39.95 (718668) 14.3% alcohol
Sandalwood, espresso roast and herb aromas nestle up to soft, ripe berry fruit and cherry on the nose of this fruit-forward Pinot. There’s a balanced and structured wash of black berry, mulberry and spice that bathes the palate infusing the lengthy finish. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and good sense of purpose. Well priced and simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Burgundy and Piedmont Mini-feature

Aurélien Verdeg Morey-Saint-Denis 2010
AOC Morey-Saint-Denis $44.95 (354316) 13.0% alcohol
Spice, toast and mineral tones on the nose, it races across the palate with great nerve and verve. Sour cherry and red currant play a supporting role to the predominant sweet mulberry and ripe strawberry on the palate. It’s balanced with good weight, acidity and fruit along with a lengthy fruit-forward, mouth-watering, dry finish. Pour with smoked, grilled duck breasts or coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Albert Morot Beaune Aigrots 1er Cru 2009
AOC Beaune $53.95 (042416) 13.0% alcohol
This is structured and firm with complex flavours, great carpentry and oodles of charm. Aromas of piquant spice, racy, sour cherry and dark coffee interweave with roasted herbs and beetroot appearing on the lively nose and also in the medium-bodied, palate-bathing flavours. It sports a layer of tannin that builds on the finish. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring with filet mignon and root vegetables. (Vic Harradine)


Pertinace ‘Nervo’ Barbaresco 2009
DOCG Barbaresco $39.95 (344705) 14.0% alcohol
Barbaresco is often more accessible when young than Barolo and this is no exception. Aromas of lilac, earthiness and espresso roast herald a river of dried currant, roasted herbs and black licorice. It’s mid weight with very good mouth feel and lingering finish that’s warm, smooth and laced with black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry. Good value and ready to go after a two-hour decant. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Osborne Pedro Ximenez ‘1827’ Sweet Sherry

DO Jerez $17.95 (047944) 17.0% alcohol

Sherry conjures up images of ‘cooking sherry’ and tippling Aunt Matilda … pity. It’s a delicious, sophisticated, misunderstood wine and Sherry drinkers love it that way; it keeps the price ridiculously low. This is sweet, viscous and brimming with flavour and charm—toffee, nutty nuances and desiccated berry fruit interlaced with spice and raisins. It pours well on its own as the dessert or alongside blue cheese, custards or dark, spiced fruit cake. Pick up a bottle, serve chilled, let me know what you think. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

Paul Clouet ‘Sélection à Bouzy Brut’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $47.95 (339903) 12.0% alcohol
This is terrific value, Champagne under $50, and, they didn’t sacrifice a thing. It has a lifted nose – lively aromas of yeast, freshly squeezed lemon and toast; a frothy mousse - bubbles when poured in the glass; a great attack - loads of citrus, crisp apple and hints of buckwheat honey and white nectarine on the palate; and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Charles Sparr ‘Cuvée Renaissance Brut’ Rosé Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $19.95 (350306) 12.5% alcohol
In addition to having some special visual appeal in the glass, Rosé often has more body and oomph—it was made with at least some, if not all, red grapes—allowing it to pair with food that might overpower white wine. This is 100% Pinot Noir with aromas of strawberry, watermelon and spice. It dishes up a mid-weight, nicely textured and balanced attack of ripe red berry fruit and spice mingling with ruby red grapefruit. It finishes crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering good. Pair with chicken, turkey, ham or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine du Clos de l’Epinay ‘Tête de Cuvée Brut’ Vouvray 2007
AOC Vouvray $20.95 (298398) 12.0% alcohol
A quiet, funky nose—some woodsy aromas wreathed in nutty notes and wet wool presages an appealing wash of green apple, ripe peach and pear garnished with excellent acidity delivered in a crisp, refreshing streak of key lime and lemon curd. Very versatile at the table, it pours well as an aperitif, with lobster bisque or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)


One + One = Three ‘Cygnus Reserva’ Brut Nature Cava Non-Vintage 

DO Cava, Spain $19.95 (352856) 11.5% alcohol 

There’s very good value here. This sparkling, organic gem was produced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes— Xarel-lo 40%, Parellada 30% and Macabeo 30%. Lifted aromas of apple and pear interweave with mint and wisps of piquant ginger heralding flavours of apple, mineral/slate and strawberry wreathed in lemon curd and toasty notes. This has good mousse and a delightfully refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—certainly a cut above the norm. Pour with steamed mussels or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Featherstone Cabernet Franc 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (64618) 12.5% alcohol 

If you enjoy a classic, ripe Cabernet Franc, this wine’s for you. Enticing aromas of red berries, blueberry pie, smoky roasted red pepper and herbs mingle. On the palate, it’s dry and tangy, medium-full bodied, displaying a crisp texture, grippy tannins and tasty, savoury red berry fruit. Expansive notes of toasty oak linger on the long, dry finish. Match this wine to ham or prime rib with gravy. (Susan Desjardins)


Pelee Island ‘Vinedressers’ Meritage 2010 

VQA Ontario $24.95 (317933) 13.0% alcohol 

This blend of the Cabernets and Merlot displays aromas of red berry, vanilla and spice. Dry, mid-full weight, it deftly balances structure and fruit sporting velvety tannins, fresh acidity and juicy fruit. The notes of vanilla and spice replay on the palate carrying through the extended, dry finish. Enjoy this wine with rich meat casseroles. (Susan Desjardins)


Peninsula Ridge Meritage 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (299180) 14.0% alcohol
Red cherry and currant aromas interweave with toasty, smoky bits on the nose. A balanced and expressive wash of black currant and juicy red berry fruit are interwoven with baking spice, mocha and notions of cassis. Full-bodied and gorgeously textured, it’s juicy, structured, full of fruit and promise—underpinned by tannin, keep until 2015, you’ll be handsomely rewarded. Can’t wait? Aerate/decant three hours pouring with rare-grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Kendal-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012
California $19.95 (369686) 13.3% alcohol
An alluring nose of toasty notes, tropical fruit and wisps of lemony citrus, open this impressive Cali Chard. White peach, green apple and lemon zest swirl over the palate, balanced, structured and delectable. It’s medium weight and fleshy with a creamy smooth mouth feel and lingering finish that harmoniously knits all components together. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Cakebread Zinfandel 2010
Red Hills Lake County $39.95 (214031) 15.1% alcohol
A bit pricey, but worth it, aromas of black, juicy cherry/berry and oodles of spice abound. It’s fully flavoured and fully textured sporting a luxurious wash of black currant, briary berry and kirsch liqueur that replay on the extended, warm finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs mopped generously with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Laura Cantena ‘Luca Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $29.95 (167312) 14.0% alcohol
From hand-harvested, +45-year-old vines, this shows purity of fruit, balance, depth and complexity. Aromas of herbs, dark berry fruit and aromatic bitters jump from the glass. Rich and complex flavours—black currant, exotic spice and spice-infused black plum—roll in waves on the palate. It’s nicely textured, fully flavoured and dishes up a complex finish with sweet vanilla, espresso roast and yet more dark berry fruit to the fore. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Cono Sur ’20 Barrels Limited Edition’ Pinot Noir 2011
Casablanca Valley $27.95 (684530) 14.0% alcohol
From a winery you can trust to consistently delivery a price-quality ratio in your favour, this dishes up aromas of savory herbs and red and black berry fruit. It bathes the palate with structured, medium-full bodied and nicely textured waves of ripe strawberry, tangy red cherry and red raspberry. The balanced finish has depth and complexity with juicy black currant and wisps of black plum compote. (Vic Harradine)


Emiliana ‘Novas Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2010
Maipo Valley $15.95 (685792) 14.0% alcohol
There’s very good value here as red cherry, earthy, forest floor notes and savory spice aromas herald a rich, concentrated wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and cherry pie. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and an extended finish and aftertaste that’s mouth-watering, balanced and delicious. Pour with grilled strip loin now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Carmenère 2010
Rapel Valley $18.95 (034942) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a lot to like here—complexity, flavour, balance and charm. Herbs, spice, toasty oak and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue for a complex, robust river of bramble berry and black plum delivered with good weight and texture. The balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste layers on notions of cherry trifle, bittersweet chocolate and fennel. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Chapel Hill ‘Parson’s Nose’ Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (339705) 14.5% alcohol
It was the ‘pope’s nose’ in my (protestant) home, but you get the picture. Tantalizing aromas of herbs, floral bits and dark berry fruit presage a rich, concentrated river of palate-coating bramble berry and black currant interlaced with peppery notes and black licorice. It’s full bodied and über smooth and creamy with a seamless, lingering finish and aftertaste that’s balanced and beautiful. There’s good depth, complexity and value to be had here. (Vic Harradine)


Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
South Australia $44.95 (414987) 14.5% alcohol
This is gorgeous; it’s rich, balanced with great purity of fruit and brushstrokes of elegance. You’ll find the ‘407’ in the ‘Distinguished’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification of Australia fine wine—the Penfolds name causes one to stop and consider the wine. Dark cherry, fennel and mocha aromas herald a firm and focused torrent of textured, structured, black, tangy cherry, sweet ripe mulberry and aromatic bitters coating the palate infusing the long, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Excellent poured now, better after a two-hour decant. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $22.95 (677450) 13.5% alcohol
This blasts from the glass with piquant, arresting aromas of canned peas, gunflint, gooseberry, minerality and lemon peel – wow. It’s herbaceous and tangy on the palate—passion fruit, lemon pie filling and asparagus tips mingling with gooseberry and piquant spice. It’s quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc… on steroids. Not for the faint of heart, full of nerve and verve; it’s poured perfectly with verjus-dressed arugula salad with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Sileni ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (662882) 12.5% alcohol
Grassy, nettles and herbal aromas introduce a solid line of ripe fruit and tang with purity of fruit throughout. Passion fruit, gooseberry preserves and passion fruit dominate the palate along with notions of tropical fruit and crisp green apple. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a solid line of lip-smacking acidity throughout. The aftertaste replays palate flavours resulting in another solid effort for Sileni. This offers good value, as well. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Dog Point Pinot Noir 2010
Marlborough, South Island $48.95 (329672) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy notes, roasted herbs and piquant spice aromas intro a racy wash of sour cherry and red currant mingling with toasty oak and wisps of smoke. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it streaks over the palate with tangy red fruit—currant, cherry and raspberry. The aftertaste is mouth-watering, dry and fruit-forward sporting balance, depth and charm. Pour with choriço and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Graham Beck ‘The Game Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
WO Robertson $16.95 (337592) 14.0% alcohol
From a wonderful, iconic producer, this won’t disappoint. Alluring aromas of exotic spice and tree fruit presage a deftly balanced, flavour-laden gem. Crisp, Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and grilled pineapple bathe the palate infusing the finish and tangy, racy aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a well-paced aftertaste that layers on a dollop of white nectarine and a good line of moderating acidity. Pour with pan-seared or grilled sea food. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Domaine Rieflé ‘Côte de Rouffach’ Pinot Gris 2009
AOC Alsace $20.95 (223917) 13.5% alcohol
This’ll sneak up on you, and you’ll like it. The nose is shy and unobtrusive with wisps of honeyed pit fruit. Unexpectedly, it coats the palate with a rush of mouth-filling flavour, rich, robust and complex. Binned apple, ripe pit fruit—yellow plum and white peach—are wreathed in mixed spice and tangy lemony citrus. It shows good weight and mouth feel and a long finish—tangy, rich and delicious. This is a bit outside the box, but very compelling. (Vic Harradine)


Henri Bourgeois ‘Petit Bourgeois’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Vins de Pays du Val de Loire $14.95 (672345) 12.5% alcohol
Grassy, herbaceous aromas play a supporting role for the lively gooseberry on the nose. This is clean, crisp and refreshing with complexity and a spirited wash of passion fruit, minerality, tangy lemon and white grapefruit pith appearing on the palate and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with decent texture and good value. Good to go now alongside pan-seared, breaded calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Paul Prieur et Fils Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $25.95 (350421) 13.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, lemon curd and minerality are showcased on the nose and palate of this crisp, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc fashioned by an 11th generation, family winery. It’s tangy and juicy on the palate, dominated by a river of green apple interwoven with white grapefruit and sweeter grilled pineapple. It finishes the same, crisp and refreshing. Pours well with bivalves, especially moules et frites. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Haut Daugay 2006
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $22.95 (348268) 13.5% alcohol
This 2006, drink-me-now, red blend—60% Merlot,40% Cab Franc—was the 2nd wine of this newly named Château (Château Quintas), recently purchased by the owners of 1st growth Ch. Haut-Brion. It oozes ripe dark fruit on the palate—cherry and briary berry—and aromas of smoke, dark berry fruit and gamy notes mingling with baking spice. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, balanced and beautiful finish. Drink over the next two or three years. (Vic Harradine)


Château Lieujean 2010
AOC Haut-Médoc $19.95 (085308) 13.0% alcohol
Hi toned, balanced, oozing appeal and charm, aromas of red and dark berry fruit, spice box and earthiness abound. Rich and delicious on the palate, bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and ripe mulberry wash in waves. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel and a dry, lingering aftertaste that’s red-fruit laden, crowd pleasing and charming. There’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Saint-Émilion 2009
AOC Saint-Émilion $20.95 (979955) 13.5% alcohol
Floral, herbs, spice and blueberry on the nose, this dishes up rich, delicious cassis, kirsch liqueur and bramble berry followed by a long finish and aftertaste of balanced, dark, fruit flavours and oodles of charm. It’s medium-full weight with decent texture and near-fully resolved tannin. Good to go now alongside steak, burgers, meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Saint-Lager Brouilly 2011
AOC Brouilly $19.95 (330027) 13.0% alcohol
A lively nose dominated by piquant spice and red berry fruit provide segue to a boatload of juicy, tangy flavours streaking across the palate delivered by red currant, sour cherry and hints of cranberry in this Cru Gamay. It’s light on its feet with a racy, clean, tang-laden finish. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or nachos. (Vic Harradine)


Château du Petit Thouars ‘Réserve’ Cabernet Franc 2010
AOC Touraine $14.95 (350439) 13.2% alcohol
Tobacco, toasted herbs and ripe mature fruit aromas segue a value-laden red that’s delightfully delicious. Red cherry, black raspberry, dried currants and spice all appear on the medium-bodied, well-textured palate. The finish and aftertaste are laced with excellent tang counterbalanced with riper red fruit and a brushstroke of sweet vanilla and fine-grained tannin. Good depth, structure and value on offer here. (Vic Harradine)


Tessellae Carignan ‘Old Vines’ Côtes du Roussillon 2011
AP Côtes du Roussillon $18.95 (343517) 14.5% alcohol
This area is awash with value; canny anglers will wisely reel in a few of this red blend—mostly Syrah and Grenache with 15% Mourvèdre and a splash of Grenache Gris. Dark chocolate, herb and spice aromas interlace with dark, cherry/berry fruit aromas. Structured, balanced, fruit-forward and charming, a concentrated gusher of cassis, currants and mocha coats the palate replaying in the drawn-out finish. It’s mid-plus weight with a creamy mouth feel. (Vic Harradine)


Coudoulet de Beaucastel Côtes-du-Rhône 2011
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $29.95 (048884) 14.0% alcohol
Primarily Grenache/Mourvèdre, it’s the little brother of much sought-after Cháteau de Beaucastel, at 1/3rd the price. Berry fruit, spice and gamy notes herald a rich and deep river of black licorice and bittersweet chocolate garnished with juicy, tangy black Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied with a smooth, mellow finish showcasing balanced fruit and acidity plus well-integrated tannin and oak. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine La Fourmone ‘Trésor du Poète’ Vacqueyras 2010
AP Vacqueyras $22.95 (194704) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, wood smoke, graphite and fennel on the nose, it feels like velvet on the palate, caressed by black plum and juicy, black cherry mingling with anise and notions of earthiness. It’s full bodied with a lingering aftertaste, balanced, fruity and delectable—dark, sweet, rich cherry/berry fruit interwoven with kitchen spice and mocha. Serve alongside cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine les Aphillantes ‘Cuvée des Galets Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (252270) 15.0% alcohol
A step up in price and quality from most C-d-R appellation wines, this village-designated GSM—Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre—offers great value. Low-yielding old vines and the producer’s dedication to quality and balance set this apart. Exotic spice, charred wood smoke and field berry fruit aromas set the stage for a deep, dense wash of cassis and kirsch liqueur offset with good moderating acidity on the palate and lengthy finish. It’s medium weight with decent texture and an aftertaste that’s balanced, fruity, delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Gabriel Meffre ‘Saint-Théodoric’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AO Châteauneuf-du-Pape $36.95 (343525) 14.5% alcohol
This is very aromatic with floral notes, kitchen spice and field berry fruit. There’s a lovely line of tangy, red cherry/berry, dark, juicy mulberry and black plum compote wreathed in mocha on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied and satiny smooth with a mid-length aftertaste of kirsch liqueur mingling with espresso roast and garrigue. Lovely sipped on its own, it really shines with tagine-roasted lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Antinori ‘Castello Della Sala Cervaro Della Sala’ 2010
IGT Umbria $55.95 (512376) 13.0% alcohol
Mineral/flinty notes interweave with buttered toast and pit aromas preceding a solid, mid-full weight, well-textured wave of ripe pear and yellow apple wreathed in tangy citrus acidity. It’s nicely structured with depth and complexity. The finish is quite smooth and mellow adding a notion of white grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Casa Catelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (339010) 13.0% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, truffles and ripe, mature fruit aromas dazzle the senses before bathing the palate with racy red currant, cranberry, mixed spice and red cherry—there’s a solid line of mouth-watering acidity throughout. It’s medium weight and long on the finish—strawberry, forest floor and vanilla join in. This is a good pairing with lasagna or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Gemma Ruja Nebbiolo 2010
DOC Langhe $17.95 (344473) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with an aromatic nose of stewed fruit, floral notes, pipe tobacco and piquant spice. It’s juicy and tangy on the palate with a rush of red currant and spice underpinned by sweeter strawberry. Mid-full weight with nice texture, the finish delivers more racy flavours and a lick of tannin. Best poured 2015-2020; if you’re impatient, aerate/decant three hours serving with venison, moose, osso bucco, something with oomph. (Vic Harradine)


Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (344416) 13.5% alcohol
A quiet nose of spice, flowers and mixed red and black fruit provide backdrop for a mid-weight, well-textured wash of sour cherry and red plum wrapped in spice and herbs, underpinned by a solid tannin base. It’s medium-plus weight with a juicy, tangy finish replaying palate flavours with gusto. Best opened 2015-2020 or now after a three-hour decant served with hearty cuisine—stew, meat loaf or turkey pot pie. (Vic Harradine)


Cavalli ‘Tenuta Degli Dei’ 2009
IGT Toscana $49.95 (350405) 13.5% alcohol
This is alluring right from the get go with sexy aromas of rose petals and exotic spice embroidered with cherry/berry fruit and mocha. It’s structured and concentrated with tangy red cherry interweaving with juicy bramble berry wreathed in baking spice on the palate, replaying on the aftertaste. Medium-plus weight with good mouth feel, this international red blend oozes charm. (Vic Harradine)


Lamole Di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $37.95 (231241) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, ripe berry fruit and notions of vanilla presage a balanced and complex flavour palette with lively, red cherry counterbalanced by ripe, sweet mulberry wreathed in roasted herbs and bolstered by a supple tannin structure. There’s good weight and texture and a firm finish that will from a two-hour aeration/decant. Good to go now and on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)


Tenuta dell’Ornellaia ‘Le Volte’ 2011
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 14.0% alcohol
From the producer of ‘Ornellaia’, one of the original, iconic ‘Super Tuscans’, this showcases its breeding in a pleasing, drink-me-now style. Overall, it’s rich, ripe and balanced with a ripe, fine-grained tannin underpinning. A wash of ripe, briary berry and black currant interweaves with mocha and roasted herbs infusing the balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel pouring well with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

Columna Albariño 2011
DO Rias Baixas $18.95 (339929) 12.5% alcohol
Grassy with floral notes and piquant spice on the nose, this offers a light-on-its-feet wash of crisp clean lemon acidity garnished with notions of yellow peach and green apple. It replays flavours and a solid line of tang on the crisp, clean and refreshing finish and aftertaste. It pairs well with pan-seared fish or prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Borsao ‘Tres Pico’ Garnacha 2011
DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol
This is a sure-fire, crowd-pleasing red with lifted, alluring aromas, oodles of dark, ripe fruit, good structure and enough acidity for great balance. Piquant spice and herb aromas interweave with rich, dark berry fruit and black plum compote. There’s a gusher of sweet, ripe mulberry, black and juicy Bing cherry on the palate and extended finish. It’s good weight and textured with a fruit-laden, spice-infused aftertaste, and it’s very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Torres ‘Salmos’ 2010
DOCa Priorat $36.95 (060772) 14.5% alcohol
This was tough to spit; it’s juicy, structured and complex with good depth of flavours. Alluring aromas of lilac, dried, red and black berry fruit and exotic spice abound. Palate-bathing waves of black currant, bramble berry and tar persist through the deftly balanced finish. It’s medium-full bodied with a satin smooth texture and solid tannin underpinning dominating the aftertaste. Best to pull corks 2015 to 2021. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO Portfolio

Bersano ‘Costalunga’ Barbera d’Asti 2011
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $11.95 13.5% alcohol
Chocolate, spice and tobacco mingle with dark berry fruit aromas on the nose. It bathes the palate with a creamy-smooth, crowd-pleasing wash of tangy, red cherry and currants garnished by incense and roasted herbs. It’s medium weight and delightful, the well-rounded finish and aftertaste is lengthy and fruit forward. Give this a go with burgers, pizza, wings or tacos. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Lailey Vineyard consistently produces wine that over-delivers in value, taste and overall enjoyment. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, dropped by with ten wines for tasting. Always an uplifting experience, five are reviewed below following the five reviewed in the most recent Sept. 25 newsletter. You can order a mixed case, or cases, from all ten reviews for home or office delivery online from Lailey Vineyard.


Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara River $18.20 10.5% alcohol
Balanced and beautiful, this is value laden and quite stylish. Lifted and layered aromas of orange blossom, minerality and floral notes presage a ripe, luscious wash of ripe nectarine, white peach and tangy lemon curd. Mid weight and nicely textured the lingering, crisp, lip-smacking finish is just off dry and absolutely delicious. Served well with spicy Asian cuisine or alongside crispy pork bellies. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.20 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a crowd-pleaser with good value, excellent balance and oodles of charm. Yellow peach, Golden Delicious apple and mineral/slate aromas provide segue for a medium-bodied, beautifully textured river of palate-bathing flavours with white peach, nectarine and terrific lemon acidity to the fore. This is deftly balanced, clean, crisp and refreshing with a lengthy aftertaste that’s very more-ish. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.20 13.0% alcohol
Sharp and alluring aromas of nettles, gooseberry and ripe yellow plum abound. It was 60% barrel fermented with the other 40% fermented in stainless steel. There’s a good line of citrus acidity streaking across the palate nicely balanced with ripe apple and pear wreathed in grilled pineapple. The lingering aftertaste showcases grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. Good to go now with mesclun salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara River $25.20 11.5% alcohol
Extended skin contact contributes to the dazzling golden hue. Rich, complex aromas bedazzle with rosewater, candied fruit, exotic spice and alluring floral notes. It’s light-medium bodied with excellent texture and structure. Flavours of peach, plum and spice flow over the palate infusing the dry, clean, refreshing finish. Pair with soft white cheese or baked ham. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard ‘Brickyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara River $25.20 13.0% alcohol
Balanced, structured and complex, this is astonishingly delicious, melding purity of fruit, lively acidity and well-integrated oak into a drop-dead-delectable Chardonnay. Aromas of apple and pear interweave with wisps of baking spice and toasty oak on the nose preceding a mouthful of balanced, creamy-smooth wash of ripe pit fruit—peach and plum—garnished with lemon pie filling, nutty notes and crisp green apple. It finishes lengthy, clean, mouth-wateringly good. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Rosehall Run is one of the original County wineries with plantings now more than a decade old. They’ve been consistent with quality and value; they’ve excelled with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir right from the get go. However, they’re no two-trick pony, the quality-value proposition is in your favour right across the impressive portfolio of wines. Order the following by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from Rosehall Run.


Rosehall Run ‘JCR Rosehall Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Brimming with exotic aromas, excellent structure and charm, this hi-toned cool-climate Chardonnay opens with an alluring nose of exotic spice, ripe apple and notions of peach, pear and toasty oak. It’s medium bodied with generous mouth feel and a wash of tangy, juicy apple, lemon pie filling and mineral tones bathing the palate, infusing the mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s excellent now, even better with additional bottle age. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, lilac and red cherry/berry fruit on the nose, this bathes the palate with a firm and focused line of tangy, red cherry and riper, black currant wreathed in espresso roast and toasty oak. It has good weight and texture and oodles of racy, lip-smacking charm. There’s all this and more on the dry finish as it layers on a perceptible brush of tannin. Ameliorate the tannin with a two-hour aeration/decant, then pour with Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County - The Swinger’ Syrah 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 12.0% alcohol
White pepper, piquant spice and notions of gamy notes swirl from the glass; it’s the only Syrah planted in the County. It broadens out on the palate with a tangy wash of red currant and pomegranate interwoven with sour cherry and wisps of strawberry. It’s mid weight with a lip-smacking aftertaste that replays palate flavours layering on herbaceous notes and fine-grained tannin. Pour with Italian braciole—stuffed beef rolls in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.


Johannes Zillinger ‘Weinviertel’ Grüner Veltliner 2012
DAC Kellerberg, Austria $17.70 12.5% alcohol
This organic Grüner delivers heady aromas of spice, rose petals and lime yoghurt. Creamy smooth with good weight and structure, it explodes on the palate with racy lemon-lime, minerality, green apple and tangy white grapefruit. It finishes in a blaze of lemon drop, pear and mouth-watering tang. There’s good value and versatility at the table—pour with chicken, veal, pork or seafood. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de Cray ‘Antoine Antier’ Sauvignon 2012
AOC Touraine, France $14.15 12.0% alcohol
Hard to find better at this price, alluring, enticing aromas of Key lime, ripe Meyer lemon, exotic spice and floral notes abound. It bathes the palate with wave after delicious wave—lemon-lime cordial and crisp Golden Delicious apple interwoven with grilled pineapple. Its medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and a lengthy, balanced and beautiful finish. (Vic Harradine)


Franco e Franca Gatteschi Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $32.85 13.0% alcohol
A dazzling red that’s structured, elegant, complex and stylish. Spice, tobacco, floral notes and leather aromas open this gem followed by a fleshy, creamy-smooth river of tangy, ripe bramble berry, cassis and black, juicy Bing cherry coating the palate in waves. It’s medium-full bodied with a balanced, fruit-forward aftertaste that lasts 30 or more seconds. A classic, not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)


Pometti ‘Tarchun us’ 2008
IGT Toscana, Italy $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Ripe, cooked plums, espresso roast and figs on the nose, this blankets the palate with a mid-weight, nicely textured mouthful of bramble berry, racy red cherry and notions of menthol interweaving with roasted herbs and red licorice. It finishes dry with ripe black plum and tangy red cherry garnished with a solid line of sweet and tang, crisp and refreshing. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Tenuta Fernando Capello Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Friuli Grave, Italy $19.95 12.5% alcohol
This is balanced and beautiful with exciting purity of fruit. The lifted funky nose of buckwheat honey, floral notes and beeswax provides segue for a generously textured, mid-weight wash of mandarin orange, white peach and racy lemon tang coating the palate. The finish is crisp, clean and refreshing with oodles of citrus and green apple tones. (Vic Harradine)


Tenuta Fernando Capello Traminer Aromatico 2012
DOC Friuli Grave, Italy $19.95 12.5% alcohol
This Traminer Aromatico, a.k.a. Gewürztraminer, jumps from the glass with aromas of exotic spice and rosewater. It coats the palate with a medium bodied, creamy wash of spice-laden peach and pear interweaving with ginger, lychee and tropical fruit. It drives through the finish with a replay of the palate flavours garnished with a pithy, white grapefruit aftertaste. A very good example of flavourful, cool-climate Gewürzt. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following wines by the case from Noteworthy Wines. For daily home or office delivery, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or in London, ON phone (519) 914-1204. Mention to owners Bill and Lisa that you’re a winecurrent subscriber and you’ll receive 10% discount on your first case of wine.


Grady Family Vineyards Chardonnay 2012
Lodi, California $20.00 13.2% alcohol
Good value and a boatload of flavour; dare I say, yummy? Baking spice, apple crumble and wisps of citrus introduce a balanced, delectable river of fruit—yellow peach, pear and tropical fruit mingle with baked apple on the palate. It’s medium weight with a beautiful, creamy mouth feel and a monumental finish replaying flavours, layering on a crowd-pleasing, racy aftertaste; not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)


Stama Winery Zinfandel ‘Dry Rosé 2012
Lodi, California $20.00 13.3% alcohol
Lively strawberry aromas meld with spice and cherry on the nose. It delivers a tangy, juicy mouthful of red currant, strawberry and red plum riding a medium-bodied, well-textured wash, bathing the palate. This has a dry, tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste and plenty of charm and structure—easily handling appetizers and mains like seafood kebabs or lightly spiced chicken, veal and pork dishes. (Vic Harradine)


Zantho Muskat Ottonel 2012
Burgenland, Austria $20.00 12.0% alcohol
This is unmistakably Muscat, with exotic spice, rosewater and notions of lychee on the fragrant nose. It delivers more of the same on the palate with a blaze of tangy citrus on the back palate. It’s light on its feet with nice mouth feel and a smooth, dry, mellow aftertaste that’s both fruity and lip-smacking good. Pour on its own as an aperitif or with arugula sprinkled with verjus and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan