September 25, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – six of the almost 70 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; one in the Main Release under Spain: Red Wine, three in New in LCBO Portfolio and two in New in Ontario Wineries following the Main release, with a price range from $9.95 to $25.20 – the latter a 5-star in New in Ontario Wineries.
• Vic’s Premium Picks – MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay 2011, 4½ stars @ $22.95 under California: White Wine and Finca Villacreces ‘Pruno’ 2011, 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Spain: Red Wine.
• Susan’s Special Selections – Emiliana Nottola Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009, 4½ stars @ $19.95 in the Tuscany Feature and Dry Creek ‘Heritage’ Zinfandel 2010, 4½ stars @ $21.95 under California: Red Wine
• 5-star wine – three rang the 5-star bell. Château des Charmes 2009 Icewine, Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Sparkling Wine, and Lailey Vineyard 2011 Merlot @ $25.20

Over 65 wines tasted, spat and reviewed in this newsletter

You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: September 28, 2013

Tuscany Feature

San Felice ‘Il Grigio’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $26.95 (716266) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of red cherry and red berry fruit vie for attention wreathed in leather and spice. This is tangy, juicy and fully flavoured with an outpouring of sweet vanilla, briary berry and black currant riding impressive wave after impressive wave on the palate—medium bodied, generously textured. There’s an excellent line of acidity and a solid tannin underpinning on the lingering aftertaste—aerate/decant three hours, better still pop corks 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Nottola Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
DOCG Montepulciano $19.95 (184960) 14.0% alcohol
Absolutely delectable, this fine wine shows restrained aromas of red fruit, spice, earth and delicate floral notes. Dry, medium-full bodied and satiny in texture, the wash of intense red fruit is nicely offset by a spine of lively acidity and subtle tannins. Elegantly integrated oak offers a spicy note that accents the earthiness that persists on the finish. Enjoy it now and over the next few years. (Susan Desjardins)


Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2010
DOC Carmignano $16.95 (508531) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from fruit grown on an ancient Medici estate, this blend features Canaiolo, as well as Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas and flavours of cassis, red berry, red licorice, spice and earth shine through, lifted by fine acidity and framed by perceptible tannins. There’s good structure and harmony with earthy, toasty notes carrying through the long finish. Savour with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Vicchiomaggio Ripa delle Mandorle 2012
IGT Toscana $15.95 (677930) 13.5% alcohol
The clean, bright ruby tones of this medium-bodied dry wine presage the fresh lively texture and juicy red fruit. There’s consistency from start to finish, with flavours of cherry, strawberry and plum complemented by tangy spice. An accessible, gulp-able wine to serve with pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)


Sada Integolo ‘Fattroia Carpoli’ 2010
IGT Toscana $18.95 (350132) 12.5% alcohol
Gamy notes and leather meld with field berry fruit, charred toast and baking spice on the interesting nose. It’s chockfull of tangy, racy red currant, cranberry and black plum on the palate. Mid weight and with decent mouth feel, it showcases a lick of tannin on the dry, lively finish. Aerate/decant two hours serving with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Brancaia Tre 2011
IGT Toscana $23.95 (164715) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s an intriguing wine blending Merlot and Cabernet with the main event, Sangiovese, the grapes sourced from the Maremma and Chianti Classico. Earthy, smoky notes combine with spiced red rose, herbs and red fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is nicely balanced, subtly structured, offering the complexity of red fruit flavours, smoky toast, roasted herbs and an elusive mineral quality. Long and dry on the finish, it’s a versatile wine for lighter meats or spinach and cheese cannelloni. (Susan Desjardins)


Argiano ‘Non Confunditur’ 2011
IGT Toscana $24.95 (072397) 14.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of piquant spice, bright, red cherry and anise herald a gorgeous wash of balanced, complex flavour—sweet, ripe mulberry and dark, juicy cherry interlacing with exotic spice. It’s silky smooth and mid-full bodied with solid tannin and a long fruit-filled finish and aftertaste; refreshing and clean, lip-smacking good. Open 2015 – 2022. (Vic Harradine)


Ruffino ‘Modus’ 2010
IGT Toscana $29.95 (912956) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of tarry, gamy notes mingle with dark berry fruit and roasted herbs. This is rich and tangy with red cherry, red currant and riper, sweeter, black plum bathing the palate. The finish replays flavours with gusto, layering a lick of tannin and excellent acidity on the drying finish. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring alongside lasagne or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Carpineto Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
IGT Toscana $29.95 (996553) 13.5% alcohol
Dark cherry and roasted herbs interweave with fennel and gamy bits on the involved nose. It’s beautiful and balanced, tangy and expressive; a wash of black cherry, black currant and tangy sour cherry beguile. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and finishes with perceptible tannin—aerate three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Chile Feature

Errázuriz ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Casablanca Valley $21.95 (143198) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked grapes, this wine is fragrant with aromas of gooseberry, citrus and herbs. Dry, medium bodied, the lively acidity brings out the freshness of lime, grapefruit and gooseberry, creating a nice balance. A touch of green pepper sashays through the long, savoury finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Lapostolle ‘Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Colchagua Valley $24.95 (947929) 14.0% alcohol
Deep purple, this powerful wine produced from organic grapes offers great complexity and layers of aromas and flavours, including cassis, mint, spiced flowers, dried herbs and tobacco. Dry, full bodied, displaying gripping tannins and clean acidity, it has a firm base from which to showcase ripe, concentrated red and black fruits. Hints of sweet spice and pepper, along with a whiff of espresso linger on the finish. Cellar a further year or two, or decant and serve with rare red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Croft ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2008
DOC Douro $18.95 (087601) 20.0% alcohol
Heady aromas of fig, raisin and spice cake herald a sweet, luscious river of dark cherry, plum compote and bramble berry jam. It coats the palate with mid-full weight and a silky smooth mouth feel showcasing a lengthy fruit-filled aftertaste. Pour now and over the next five years with aged Stilton or death-by-chocolate cake. (Vic Harradine)


Messias 10 Anos Tawny Port 

Portugal $24.95 (87205) 20.0% alcohol

It's not too early to be thinking of fortified wines and winter reds and this 10-year-old Tawny warrants consideration. It's chockfull of spice, caramel, marmalade, nutty and fig flavours. Wonderfully viscous and warm on the palate, it delivers a fully textured and well-structured river of treacle-like flavours that pair perfectly with spice cake, crème brûlée or a salty aged hard cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine

Graffigna ‘Centenario’ Late Harvest Malbec 2012
San Juan $14.95 (322719) 12.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this is a delightful incarnation of Malbec, offering tantalizing aromas of dried cranberries and black cherries, ripe dark berries and hints of smoke and spice. The jammy red fruit is attractively balanced with a backbone of clean acidity, notes of spice add interest, and there’s freshness on the finish. Serve this with flourless chocolate almond cake. (Susan Desjardins)

Icewine

Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2009 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 200 mL 9.5% alcohol 

A stunning expression of icewine, not cloying or tiring on the palate, balanced and simply delicious. Peel marmalade, apricot and spun sugar on the nose, it dishes up palate-coating flavours of grilled pineapple, concentrated blood orange and honeyed pit fruit. It finishes full of nerve and verve with a lingering, lip-smacking, mouth-watering aftertaste. A special treat on its own, it also pours well with crème brûlée or crème caramel. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Sumac Ridge ‘Steller’s Jay’ Brut Sparkling Wine 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (264879) 13.0% alcohol
Vic loved this, as well. Sumac’s signature sparkling wine is pale gold with wonderful aromas of brioche, yeast, lemon/lime, orchard fruit and a touch of toasted nut. It explodes on the palate with a dynamic and lasting mousse, displaying a creamy texture and replaying citrus notes and crisp apple. Mouth-watering acidity delivers a long, textured finish. Start the party with this! (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

13th Street ‘White Palette’ 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (207340) 12.5% alcohol 

A blend of several aromatic grape varieties, the aromas of Gewürztraminer and Riesling shine through on the nose with notes of spicy tropical fruit, citrus and white flowers. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is fleshy yet fresh, fruity and spicy with a nice slightly pithy note on the vibrant, clean finish. Sip on the patio, or serve with salads or seafood. (Susan Desjardins) 


Fielding Estate ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay 2012

VQA Beamsville Bench $21.95 (355842) 12.5% alcohol 
Aromatic and rich on the nose, this is stylish, balanced and structured with complexity and charm. Floral notes, baking spice and apple/pear aromas abound. A complex wash of cinnamon-infused apple, lemon citrus and wisps of yellow peach bathe the palate. It’s deftly balanced with well-integrated toasty bits, good acidity and bold fruit climaxing on the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)  


Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented Estate’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak and baking spice interweave with orchard fruit aromas on the nose. It dishes up a huge mouthful of lemon citrus and crisp, green apple on the palate garnished with streaks of minerality and wisps of oak. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and a racy, dry finish of lemon tang giving way to a hint of white grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. Good value made even better with another few months in bottle. (Vic Harradine)


Inniskillin ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177766) 14.0% alcohol
Savour the lovely aromas of white flowers, stone fruit, musk melon and sweet spice of this pale gold wine. Dry, medium bodied, it’s warm and ripe, displaying a rich, creamy texture and fine acidity. The delightful flavours of pear and white peach linger on the slightly peppery finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol
Light-medium bodied and almost transparent, this is a fine value bursting with aromas of nectarine, Japanese pear and lemon/lime. The sensation is one of subtly-wrought balance, the flavours suggesting the sweetness of lemon curd, along with lime, crisp apple and a touch of mineral. The finish is crisp, juicy and absolutely delicious. A great complement to turkey dinner. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Angels Gate ‘Mountainview’ Merlot 2011
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (299172) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s another aromatic Ontario wine that would be well placed on the Thanksgiving table. On the big side of medium bodied, this dry wine is quite silky with focused red fruit flavours, attractive dried herb and spice notes and an elusive smoky note. There’s a great backbone of acidity, subtle tannins and a long-lasting flavourful finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

Burrowing Owl Merlot 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $41.95 (585737) 14.5% alcohol
Susan also loved this. Burrowing Owl was, years back, near impossible to purchase without visiting the winery. It developed a cult-like following. It’s now more widely distributed and expensive, but if you want a bottle, act quickly. Roasted herbs, mocha and sandalwood aromas precede a satin-smooth mouthful of palate-bathing flavour with cherry clafoutie, rich, ripe mulberry and briary berry to the fore. It’s full bodied with great mouth feel and stylish throughout. The lingering aftertaste is fruit-laden, complex and monumental. It was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Lafond ‘SRH’ Chardonnay 2011
Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County $25.95 (998641) 14.8% alcohol
Cedar, spice and ripe apple aromas intro a tangy, flavourful, generously textured wash of tropical fruit, white peach and lemon pie filling coating the palate infusing the dense, long finish. It’s complex and medium-full bodied layering on lemon zest, tropical fruit and Golden Delicious apple on the aftertaste. Pour alongside rotisserie-roast chicken, pulled pork or veal medallions. (Vic Harradine)


MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay 2011 

Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $22.95 (262063) 13.5% alcohol 

Sandalwood, exotic spice and crème caramel on the nose, it washes in waves over the palate with flavour galore—baked apple, nutty nuances and sweet vanilla garnished with excellent, moderating, citrus acidity, structure and beautiful mouth feel. It’s mid-full weight with a lingering, delectable aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well on your favour; it’s an inspired choice for large gatherings, serving alongside roast chicken, lobster or pork. (Vic Harradine) 

California: Red Wine

Dry Creek ‘Heritage’ Zinfandel 2010
Sonoma County $21.95 (574491) 13.5% alcohol
Inky and deep, this absolutely fabulous Zin offers rich blueberry and currant aromas, exotic spice notes, vanilla, earth and savoury toasty oak. Dry, full and rich, the dark fruit is succulent and spicy, the oak well integrated. The subtle structure brings great balance and harmony to the whole and delivers a surprisingly clean freshness on the big, fruity finish. Wow! You’ll want to stock up. (Susan Desjardins)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Red Label’ Zinfandel 2011
California $19.95 (708289) 13.5% alcohol
Not your garden-variety Zin, this has much to offer in a juicy, tangy style showcasing ripe, red fruit and crisp acidity. Aromas of dried currant and cassis introduce fresh and lively flavours of red cherry, red currant and oodles of mixed spice and herbs. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a dry, zesty finish that’s fruity, tangy and mouth-watering on the aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Zinfandel 2011
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $34.95 (203208) 14.5% alcohol
Aromatic and nicely balanced, this dishes up a firm and focused Zin that’s quite good value. Red and black fruit aromas interweave with spice and charry notes on the nose. Beautiful and balanced flavours of ripe mulberry, sour cherry and cassis build on the palate infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Each sip’s better than the previous with fine-grained tannin providing structure and age-ability. (Vic Harradine)


Gallo Family ‘Frei Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $19.95 (555607) 15.0% alcohol
A perennial favourite that over-delivers in taste and value—what’s not to like? Mint, sweet vanilla and currants on the nose, it delivers a rich, luscious stream of black currant, ripe mulberry and dark cherry wreathed in bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid-full weight with a gloriously smooth mouth feel joined by a lingering finish and aftertaste with notions of Kirsch liqueur. (Vic Harradine)


Paul Hobbs ‘Crossbarn’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $38.95 (118695) 14.5% alcohol
The depth and concentration of this wonderfully balanced wine are evident in its inky depth. There’s complexity on the nose—cassis and black cherry intertwined with mint, dried herbs, mocha. The tannins offer a good grip and the clean acidity lifts the rich ripe dark berry fruit that’s garnished with notes of herb, spice and cedar through the dry, persistent finish. This is a wine to savour with rare meats or game, or to cellar. (Susan Desjardins)


Ridge ‘Three Valleys’ 2011
Sonoma County $35.95 (652875) 13.8% alcohol
This is medium-full weight and generously textured showcasing structure and delectable fruit throughout. Aromas of dark berry fruit, earthiness and tobacco presage a gusher of rich, extracted flavours of black currant, salty licorice and bramble berry pie. The lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste is nicely balance and fruit forward. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Bachelder Pinot Noir 2011
Willamette Valley $34.95 (333278) 13.0% alcohol
Sprigs of herbs interweave with red berry fruit and spice on the nose. There’s a solid line of bracing acidity on the palate from red currant and sour cherry softened by a surge of ripe mulberry mingling with notions of beetroot. The aftertaste is dry and mouth-watering. Pour with smoked, grilled duck breasts placed on a bed of mesclun salad with curried vinaigrette. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Clarence Hill Chardonnay 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (057679) 12.5% alcohol
Subtle on the nose, delicate aromas of tropical fruit and nutty notes provide entrance to a pleasant surprise on the palate. A balanced and beautiful wash of grilled pineapple, tropical fruit and tangy lemon curd bathe the palate, medium-full bodied and silky smooth. The lengthy finish is balanced and delicious. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Brick Kiln Shiraz 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (329979) 14.7% alcohol
Ripe, dark fruit, fennel and baking spice aromas rip from this über-ripe and flavourful Shiraz. It’s full-bodied and fully flavoured with a gusher of concentrated black currant, ripe mulberry and black plum compote drenching the palate. The monumental aftertaste replays flavours with gusto, lingering for a full minute or more. This is not for the faint of heart. (Vic Harradine)


d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (942904) 14.1% alcohol
Rich and complex aromas abound—rose petals, wood smoke, black licorice and dried currants—heralding a balanced, structured river of black raspberry, dark bittersweet chocolate, blueberry and oodles of tangy acidity. It’s medium bodied with very good texture. The long lip-smacking finish and aftertaste sports supple tannin and deft balance. Pair with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Pirramimma Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (730374) 14.5% alcohol
This opens with subdued aromas of toasty notes, earthiness and black cherry aromas before unleashing delectable waves of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark berry fruit mingling with sweet vanilla, oak and wisps of still-resolving tannin. Mid weight with good mouth feel, the mid-length finish layers on dark toast and good acidity. It’s balanced and beautiful throughout. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Waipara Hills Pinot Gris 2011
Waipara Valley, South Island $17.95 (328054) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, mixed spice and green apple provide segue for a nicely balanced river of lemon chiffon pie, lemon-lime citrus and crisp Granny Smith apple. It’s medium weight with good texture and structure finishing in a well-rounded mouthful of ripe fruit and juicy tang. Pour alongside grilled calamari rings or grilled garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)


Wither Hills ‘Wairau Valley’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (919514) 13.0% alcohol
Opening with a sharp nose of piquant spice, green nettles, grassy notes and tinned green peas, this streaks across the palate with great nerve and verve—key lime, gooseberry and lemon curd. This line of acidity dominates the finish and aftertaste. Not for the faint of heart or faint of palate. Pour with green salad sprinkled with verjus and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Momo Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010
Marlborough $19.95 (163972) 14.0% alcohol
Hand-picked organic grapes are at the core of this wine, which was aged in old French barriques. The aromas are earthy, floral, mineral and spice intermingling with ripe red fruit. Dry, mid-weight and silky in texture, there’s noticeable peppery warmth on the palate along with notes of exotic spice. Lively acidity balances the fruit and provides freshness to the tasty finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Seresin ‘Leah’ Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (655167) 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs and piquant spice mingle with cherry aromas ushering in a firm and focused line of crisp acidity from sour cherry and cranberry melding with sweeter, riper dark berry fruit—Bing cherry and mulberry—garnished with sprigs of herbs and Asian spice. Mid weight with decent texture, the juicy finish is tangy, juicy and very nicely balanced. Pour with roast chicken, turkey or duck. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Dreyer Family ‘Lion’s Lair Family Reserve’ White 2012
WO Coastal Region $13.95 (337618) 13.5% alcohol
An eclectic white blend—Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Verdelho, Clairette Blanche—that comes together very nicely. Aromas of ripe apple, floral and mixed spice precede a racy wash of green apple, lemon pie filling and zesty key lime. These replay on the finish and aftertaste that’s tangy, crisp and refreshing. Paired well with ceviche or sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Cave de Beblenheim ‘Heimberger’ Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $19.95 (196642) 13.0% alcohol
The delicate nose of floral, spice and pit fruit is wreathed in wisps of smoke. It shifts into overdrive on the palate with a medium-sweet, tsunami wave of spice-infused nectarine, ripe pear and apple—medium weight, silky smooth, with a sweet finish and aftertaste. This is best served with fruit flan or crème brûlée. (Vic Harradine)


Gisselbrecht ‘Frankstein’ Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $20.95 (341909) 12.0% alcohol
Diesel fuel/machine oil, slate and minerally on the nose, this dishes up a crisp, dry mouthful of key lime curd, racy lemon and passion fruit. It finishes in a blaze of citrus tang and spice-laden gooseberry jam with notions of honey. Pour with baked ham or Chicken à la King. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine du Chardonnay ‘Montmains’ Chablis 1er Cru 2011
AOC Chablis $28.95 (068106) 13.0% alcohol
Wisps of toast aromas wreathed in minerality and floral notes provide segue for a bracing line of nerve and verve with green apple and citrus interweaving with yellow peach and ripe, juicy pear. Flavours replay on the lively, clean and refreshing aftertaste. Built for oysters, try freshly shucked Malpeque with a dash of Tabasco and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Haut Gravet 2010
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $39.95 (046573) 13.5% alcohol
Good purity of fruit, balance, complexity and structure are showcased throughout. It’s über aromatic with mocha, sandalwood, black cherry and mixed spice galore. The palate’s bathed in black currant and juicy black Bing cherry and espresso roast, replayed on the lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste. There’s good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant two hours and serve with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Château les Hauts de Palette 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $18.95 (297267) 13.0% alcohol
There’s complexity in the aromas and flavours here—berry fruit, black cherry, dried herbs, spice, smoke and cedar. Firmly structured, this is a dry, medium-full bodied wine with some grippy tannins and fine acidity. The dark fruit shines through, savoury notes and a trace of charry toast persisting on an extended drying finish. Cellar a year or two further, or decant and serve with rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Lingenfelder ‘Bird Label’ Riesling 2012
Pfalz Qualitätswein $13.95 (568634) 11.5% alcohol
A reliably good value purchase, this ‘Bird’ is pleasantly off-dry, displaying aromas and flavours of white flowers, lime, peach, apple and mineral. There’s great balance of fruit and acidity with a touch of spice on the finish. Enjoy with lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: White Wine

Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2012 

DOC Valdadige, Italy $10.45 (687558) 375 mL 12.5% alcohol 

The LCBO touts this as their best-selling wine. A delicate nose of floral notes, lemon tart and wisps of mineral precede a mid weight, very nicely textured streak of lemon and lime garnished with notions of green apple. The mid-length finish is crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Pair with steamed mussels and a sliced baguette. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Cantine Due Palme Primitivo 2011
IGP Salento $15.95 (658351) 13.5% alcohol
Espresso roast, pipe tobacco, plum and prune aromas introduce sweet, ripe fruit on the palate with juicy, black cherry and blueberry interwoven with baking spice and excellent moderating tang—delicious, balanced and charming. It’s medium bodied with satin smooth mouth feel and a fruit-filled finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled, pork back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce or Moroccan-spice-infused beef short ribs done in a tagine—great value here. (Vic Harradine)


Cascina Gilli ‘Vigna delle More’ Barbera d’Asti 2010
DOC Barbera d’Asti $19.95 (106401) 13.5% alcohol
Another option to pair with Thanksgiving turkey served with roasted vegetables, this is a substantial, earthy wine. Notions of smoked meat, roasted herbs and exotic spice layer over dark cherry/berry fruit. Subtly yet firmly structured with fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity, the wine finishes clean, dry and savoury. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Finca Villacreces ‘Pruno’ 2011
DO Ribera del Duero $19.95 (312140) 14.0% alcohol
This has a 10% splash of Cabernet Sauvignon complementing the Tempranillo, having aged 3 years in seasoned oak. The vineyard brushes up against two of Spain’s most coveted, most expensive properties, Peter Sisseck’s Dominio de Pingus and iconic Vega Sicilia. Black plum, dark berry fruit and wisps of tobacco and underbrush introduce a gorgeous, deftly balanced river of ripe, black cherry and red cherry mingling with mixed spice and sweet, toasted oak. It’s silky on the palate with generous texture and a long, balanced finish and aftertaste, complex and balanced with a supple tannin underpinning. Drink now, after a two-hour decant, and on to 2022. Highly recommended, it showcases great taste and great value; it toyed with 5 stars. (Vic Harradine)


Luis Canas Crianza Rioja 2009
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (336719) 14.0% alcohol
The quiet nose of mixed field berry fruit, smoke and leather herald a mid-full bodied, gorgeously textured mouthful of complex, layered flavours with bramble berry, dark cherry and baking spice to the fore. The aftertaste is nicely balanced, fruit forward and lengthy. It’s well paced, well priced and well… delectable. Pour alongside rare-grilled, seasoned hangar steak. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Luigi Bosca Malbec 2010 

Wine of Argentina $17.95 (79293) 14.0% alcohol
This is found in Vintages Essentials, always available in select stores. Rich, robust aromas of black plum, red licorice and dark juicy cherry abound. A creamy, smooth river of black currant and dark cherry bathe the palate interwoven with roasted herbs and spice. It’s mid weight, balanced and tangy with a savory-scented finish and aftertaste. Pour with burgers, pizza, wings or pasta in tomato and meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (430991) 14.0% alcohol
This also available in CdC Boutique stores in Toronto and Hamilton as well as on-line from Château des Charmes. Barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine offers rich aromas of vanilla, toasted nut, butter pastry and autumn fruit pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has a lovely smooth, round texture, a subtle structure and a great replay of orchard fruit garnished with sweet spice. A touch of warm, toasty oak lingers on the full-flavoured finish. A good choice for roast pork or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)


Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2008 

VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.0% alcohol
This vintage-dated Chardonnay was hand harvested, partial barrel-fermented, made in the traditional method and left on its lees 4½ years before disgorgement. Mineral, floral, nutty and citrus notes intro a stunning mouthful of bubbles, lemon curd, ripe yellow plum and apple garnished with wisps of tropical fruit and ripe pear. It’s structured, complex and very long on the crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Short Hills Bench $40.00 (657874) 13.5% alcohol
This is firm and focused with balance, ripe fruit and years of drinking in store. Piquant spice, beetroot, dark berry fruit and tobacco aromas herald a wash of tangy red cherry and ripe briary berry interweaving with cranberry and toast persisting through the lengthy, balanced aftertaste. It’s structured and stylish throughout, drinking now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (81653) 13.0% alcohol
This is terrific value, brimming with wonderful aromas—peach, pear and apple—and delicious flavours of crisp Granny Smith apple, white peach and lemon curd. It’s nicely balanced with good weight and satin-smooth mouth feel. It’s crisp and clean on the lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste, Pour on its own or with seafood, chicken or pasta in cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Chardonnay 2012
Wine of Chile $9.95 (321448) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and floral notes precede a delectable mouthful of beautifully textured, medium-weight salad bowl of flavour—ripe apple, tropical fruit and crisp, refreshing lemon curd. It’s balanced and chockfull of charm. The luscious finish is clean, fruity and just plain delectable. As one expects from Cono Sur, the price-quality ratio is all in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Fonseca ‘Bin No. 27 Reserve’ Port 

DOC Douro $15.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol 

Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Villa Pozzi Merlot 2011 13.5% alcohol
IGT Sicily, Italy (319632) $12.95 (319632) 13.5% alcohol
This is a true crowd pleaser with über-ripe black fruit, nice balance and oodles of charm. A gusher of bramble berry and ripe, black cherry laden with spice coats the palate infusing the lengthy, balanced aftertaste. It shows good weight and texture with many food pairings possible—pizza, pasta, ribs and wings among them. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (430991) 14.0% alcohol
Barrel fermented and aged in French oak, this wine offers rich aromas of vanilla, toasted nut, butter pastry and autumn fruit pie. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has a lovely smooth, round texture, a subtle structure and a great replay of orchard fruit garnished with sweet spice. A touch of warm, toasty oak lingers on the full-flavoured finish. A good choice for roast pork or chicken. This also available in CdC Boutique stores in Toronto and Hamilton or for daily home or office delivery from Château des Charmes. (Susan Desjardins)

Lailey Vineyard consistently produces wine that over-delivers in value, taste and overall enjoyment. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, recently dropped by with ten wines for tasting. Always an uplifting experience, five are reviewed below and another five slated for the next newsletter. You can order a mixed case, or cases, for home or office delivery online from Lailey Vineyard.


Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 12.5% alcohol
The lively, gorgeous nose blossoms with aromatics—lilac, red berry fruit and gamy notes. This is medium bodied with very good texture and a tangy river of sour cherry and ripe cranberry interlaced with sweeter mulberry and spice. Balanced on the palate and finish, there’s a lengthy aftertaste that’s juicy, tangy and lip-smacking good. Delicious on its own, it has the structure, balance and charm to pour with grilled duck breasts or veal medallions. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.20 13.5% alcohol
This is mid weight with generous mouth feel and a boatload of style, complexity and charm. This red blend—48% Merlot with an even split of Cabernets—over delivers on all counts. Aromas of spice, red and black berry fruit presages structured, complex waves of flavour caressing the palate infusing the lengthy delicious finish—black currant and bramble berry infused with mixed spice and toasty notes. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Niagara River $25.20 13.5% alcohol
Opening with a delicate nose of black currant, red cherry and graphite, it jumps into gear on the palate with a spice-infused wave of red raspberry, juicy black plum and oodles of racy acidity. It’s complex and structured with a lingering finish and aftertaste with good fruit, acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. This is a great food wine, try grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 13.9% alcohol
This is stunning Merlot showcasing ripe, mature fruit, deft balance, structure and style; one of the top Merlots of the vintage. Rich, luscious black berry, fig, blueberry and juicy black Bing cherry coat the palate, infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-full bodied with silky mouth feel and a fully integrated 18 months of oak. Pour with roast beef or grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 13.5% alcohol
Subdued and elegant aromas—red and black berry fruit, dark toast and dark cherry—precede waves of flavour with black currant, ripe mulberry and tangy juicy red cherry to the fore. The lengthy dry finish shows good structure and plenty of grip. This is clothed in a cloak of tannin, needing a further 2 years in bottle before opening. Patience handsomely rewarded as this has great promise at a very reasonable price. Drink 2016-2022. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.


Cantine di Castignano 'Passerina' Spumante Brut 2011 
DOC Terre di Offida, Italy $18.50 11.5% alcohol
A profusion of bubbles courses through the golden liquid giving off fragrant aromas of ripe orchard fruit and a fragrant floral bouquet. Ripe pear and Golden Delicious apple bathe the palate interlaced with tangy lemon citrus. It finishes dry and refreshing with balance, and is lip-smacking good. This pours well as an aperitif to get the gastric juices flowing or paired with pan-seared fish or breaded, grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de La Folliette ‘La P'tite Folie - Méthode Traditionnelle’ Brut Non-Vintage.
Product of France, Vin Mousseux de Qualité $20.50 12.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of ripe peach and fragrant orange blossoms follow the lively mousse filling the glass. It makes a lovely entry on the palate with fine-bead bubbles carrying a river of flavour and tang—lemon curd interweaves with crisp green apple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It finishes fruit-laden, crisp and clean. Very good value and a lovely way greet guests or to pour with seafood appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan