Winecurrent

September 12, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value! – nine of the +80 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; six in the Main Release, and three following the Main release, with a price range from $12.95 to $16.95.
  • Vic’s Picks – Cattail Creek ‘Barrel Fermented Small Lot’ Chardonnay 2010 under ‘Ontario: White; Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘The Siding’ Cabernet Sauvignon under Australia: Red; 2011 Alvaro Palacios ‘Camins del Priorat’ 2011 under Spain: Red; Primal Roots ‘White Blend’ 2011 and Strewn ‘Two Vines’ Cabernet-Merlot’ 2010 both found under ‘New in the LCBO’; also found in most LCBO Stores.
  • Susan Selects – Emiliana ‘Novas Gran Reserva’ Petit Verdot 2011 under Chile: Red; Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2010 under France: Red; Strewn ‘Winemaker’s Art’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 under ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ – and check out the review just before it – 6 of each would make up a case.
  • 5-star wine – a beauty! Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2007, found under Sparkling Wine in the Main Release.

Over 80 wines tasted, spat and reviewed with +60 from the September 14, 2013 Vintages Release.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

September 14, 2013 Vintages Release

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de Ventozelo Port Vintage 2003
DOC Douro $48.95 (336354) 20% alcohol
Inky, densely textured and powerful, this is a remarkable Port that can be enjoyed now or cellared further. The aromas are intense—earthy notes layered on dark brambly berry, dried fruit, mocha and spice. The palate shows wonderful depth of flavour, attractive spicy notes, hints of chocolate and substantial warmth on a well-structured frame. Finishing tangy and long, this is a wine to savour with a fine blue cheese – consider smoky Blue Haze or Bleu d’Elizabeth. (Susan Desjardins)

Dessert Wine

**** drink now
Kourtaki Muscat Samos

AOC Samos $14.95 (938407) 15.0% alcohol

And now for something completely different, a ‘Vin Doux Naturel’—it’s a bottle you might not give a second glance… pity. This offers good value, a fabulous welcoming wine—over the rocks with a splash of tonic or soda—and can be served as dessert. Sweet flavours of dried apricot, honeyed apple and pear coat the palate and gorgeous finish. Great at summer gatherings. (Vic Harradine) 

Sparkling Wine

***** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2007

VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol

Recently disgorged—after spending 5 years on the lees—this measures up to Champagne or sparkling wine from anywhere on the planet. There’s brioche, citrus and nutty aromas while the palate’s showered with spin-tingling acidity moderated by ripe pit fruit and mineral notes. It’s full-blown delicious with fine-bead mousse, creamy mouth feel, deft balance and a crisp, clean attack on the palate and mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink now
Graham Beck ‘Brut’ Rosè
WO Western Cape, South Africa $19.95 (175588) 12.0% alcohol
This opens with fragrant aromas—strawberry, watermelon and wisps of raspberry—and plenty of mousse a.k.a. froth or bubbles that form when poured. It’s a delight on the palate with lively flavours of red cherry and red berry fruit persisting throughout. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, lip-smacking freshness. Wonderful on its own as an aperitif or party starter, it has the oomph to stand alongside most appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Château Gaudrelle ‘Brut’ Crémant de Loire
AOC Loire, France $19.95 (339986) 12.5% alcohol
This punches well above price and expectations, it’s fleshy, spirited and downright delicious. Rich and flavourful, it bubbles over with apricot, lemon curd and white peach. Creamy smooth and well textured, the aftertaste carries flavour and moderating acidity in a mouth-watering crescendo. You’ll be hard pressed to find better in this price range. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Cattail Creek ‘Barrel Fermented Small Lot’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (348987) 13.5% alcohol
Complex, structured and balanced, this outstanding Chardonnay demands your attention. Smoky, toasty aromas marry with apple torte and wisps of lemon on the alluring nose. It bathes the palate with a lush mouthful of apple pie spice, ginger and caramel mingling with ripe orchard fruit—apple, pear and yellow plum. The outstanding finish is clean and refreshing with green apple and lemon curd providing the tang. This pours well with roast fowl or pork roast. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol 

Mid weight with an incredibly long aftertaste, this is charming, complex and made for Riesling aficionados and ordinary wine lovers like you and me. Aromas of floral notes, citrus, notions of minerality and hints of honey are precursor to a dazzling river of pungent, juicy lemon curd, blood orange and key lime pie streaking over the palate. It’s dripping with riveting tang and lip-smacking acidity that’s balanced beautifully with ripe pear, green apple and yellow plum. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108) 12.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of pineapple and tropical fruit dance from this mouth-watering beauty. A balanced, refreshing wash of white peach and mandarin orange mingle with lime and mineral tones on the palate. The mouth feel is silky smooth and the finish crisp and lip-smacking good. Good to go sipped on its own and pours well with all manner of pan-seared or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink now
Daniel Lenko Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (356832) 13.0% alcohol
An expressive medley of honeyed tropical fruit, rosewater, lychee and exotic spice tantalizes the nose. Mid-weight, satiny in texture, displaying a tangy acidity that balances the luscious exotic fruit, this is a deftly crafted wine that finishes with the zing of ginger and great impact and balance. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Lighthall Chardonnay 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $25.00 (278226) 13.0% alcohol
With its light oak aging, this nicely balanced wine offers notions of musk melon, orchard fruit, sweet citrus and mineral. This is dry, medium-bodied with apple and pithy citrus replaying on the palate mingling with notes of vanilla and toasted hazelnut. Clean, fresh acidity underpins the fruit through the lengthy, toasty finish. Lovely balance and weight. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Flat Rock Riesling 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (043281) 11.0% alcohol
Piquant spice and mineral/slate interweaving with buckwheat honey and key lime aromas abound. There’s a deftly balanced, off-dry, gloriously gulp-able river of Meyer lemon and key lime balanced off with riper, sweeter grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling. This sweet and tang, yin and yang, set up wonderful pairings with spicy Asian cuisine enhanced by its good weight and generous texture. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (033894) 12.5% alcohol 

Savory herbs, tobacco leaf and cedar aromas herald a bracing spine of acidity with cranberry, pomegranate and red cherry to the fore. This is medium bodied with good texture and great focus and persistence through the lingering finish. It’s dry with ripe strawberry, toasty notes and good grip on the aftertaste. Pour alongside Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink or cellar
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol
Pick up a few bottles of this well-crafted blend of the Cabernets and Merlot to enjoy with late fall barbeques. A beautiful ruby tone, the wine marries ripe black cherries, berries, cassis, sweet spice and a whiff of milk chocolate with fine-grained tannin and lively acidity. It’s dry yet approachable, mid-weight and skilfully balanced, leaving a hint of well-integrated oak on the persistent, fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
The Foreign Affair ‘The Conspiracy’ 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (149237) 13.1% alcohol 

This is alluring and vibrant on the nose with piquant spice, dried berry fruit and cedar. The palate’s bathed with a glorious wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry mingling with bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight and nicely textured with a balanced, involved aftertaste that’s fruit filled with notions of black licorice and absolutely gorgeous. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink or cellar
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 14.0% alcohol

A blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot fermented and aged separately an average of 16 months in oak barrels. Roasted herbs, dark chocolate and anise on the nose, this washes in fully textured waves over the palate with bright red cherry, sweet mulberry and a smidgen of black pepper. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced throughout with a lingering aftertaste of briary berry and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mer Soleil ‘Silver Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $28.95 (220343) 14.5% alcohol
You can’t miss the silver-grey ceramic bottle—very stylish. Tropical fruit, exotic spice and hazelnut ooze from this outstanding Chardonnay; it showcases complexity, structure and charm. A brilliant mouthful of flavour washes over the palate in medium-bodied, generously textured wave upon wave with lemon pie filling, crisp green apple and ripe Bosc pear to the fore. It finishes in a blaze of dry, lip-smacking lemony tang. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ramey ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma Coast $41.95 (288035) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a gorgeous nose of baking spice, ripe apple and alluring sandalwood. A luscious free-flowing river of complex flavour coats the palate with Granny Smith apple and yellow plum wreathed in spice, fennel and minerality. Mid-full bodied with generous mouth feel, it finishes in a blaze of bracing citrus acidity softened with pit fruit and notions of grilled pineapple—an outstanding California Chardonnay. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma County $24.95 (275552) 14.5% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, exotic Asian spice and red apple aromas herald a delightful, medium-full bodied, generously textured river of nectarine, green plum and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It finishes dry, crisp and refreshing showcasing excellent acidity on the aftertaste with lemon curd and ripe pineapple. Poured perfectly with steamed lobster or roast, stuffed turkey. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hahn Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
California $18.95 (57877) 14.5% alcohol
A deep purple hue, this wine layers cassis and blueberry on notions of smoked meat and exotic spice. Dry, full bodied, the intense, tangy, brambly black fruit is subtly underpinned by ripe tannin and fine acidity. A big, mouth-filling wine that finishes with notes of spice and toasty warmth, it’s a match for rare-grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ironstone Merlot 2011
California $18.95 (704353) 13.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of black briary berry, espresso roast and Asian spice point the way to a firm and focused line of cranberry, sour cherry and spice-laden ripe mulberry on the palate. It’s mid weight with excellent texture and a dry, lingering finish of tangy red cherry with wisps of savory spice. It pours well with lasagna or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Syrah 2011
California $19.95 (658104) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, robust aromas of spiced black plum and black cherry mingling with dark toast and black licorice abound. Sweet, ripe fruit flavours dominate with black currant and cherry interweaving with milk chocolate and kirsch liqueur on the palate persisting through the balanced and beautiful finish. The aftertaste layers on brush strokes of fine-grained tannin, maraschino cherry and spice. Lovely sipped on its own with ability to pour well with grilled ribs mopped with spicy sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Noble Vines ‘667’ Pinot Noir 2011
Monterey $18.95 (342808) 13.5% alcohol
Displaying a fine balance of freshness and fruit, this offers tantalizing aromas of cherry/berry fruit and sweet spice with a whiff of vanilla and smoke. Dry, mid weight and creamy in texture, clean acidity and fine-grained tannin frame the rich fruit. The flavours of black cherry and raspberry wash across the palate to a finish marked by gentle peppery warmth. It’s great value for your sipping pleasure. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Pahlmeyer Pinot Noir 2010
Sonoma Coast $94.95 (148536) 14.9% alcohol
This is opulent and structured with aromas of floral notes, toasty oak and sweet vanilla dominating the nose. Full-bodied and fully textured, dense flavours coat the palate with unctuous waves of ripe, juicy black cherry, red plum and mulberry washing over the palate infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. This is structured, balanced and downright delicious, now to 2015. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Silver Oak ‘Alexander Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $87.95 (943472) 13.9% alcohol
An involved nose of baking spice, deep, rich berry fruit and espresso roast presages a tangy, juicy river of red cherry, black currant and ripe bramble berry that coats the palate, well balanced, full bodied and silky-smooth. The glorious aftertaste of sweet, ripe mulberry, savory herbs and dried currant is framed by good moderating acidity with a fully resolved sweet tannin underpinning. Showing great depth of flavour and good structure, it’s good to go now and on to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau Ste. Michelle ‘Ethos Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Columbia Valley $46.95 (209866) 15.0% alcohol
Dark and brooding, rich and complex, this Washington State gem opens with alluring aromas of fig, dark berry fruit and charred toast. The palate’s flooded with a gusher of sweet, ripe mulberry and boysenberry pie interspersed with wisps of black plum compote. This is dense, mid-full bodied with great mouth feel. A long, balanced and beautiful aftertaste follows with berry fruit and charm to the fore—an absolutely delightful Cab. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Snoqualmie ‘Whistle Stop Red’ Cabernet/Merlot 2009
Columbia Valley $16.95 (930321) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak, mixed spice, berry fruit and tobacco aromas all make a statement on the nose as they intro a rich, dense and complex gusher of palate-coating flavour with cherry, currant and briary berry to the fore. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with more dark juicy fruit interwoven with toasty oak, vanilla and spice on the long finish and aftertaste. The acidity and tannin are soft and well integrated. It pairs well with grilled, red meat you pull off your Broil King. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Alamos Syrah 2012
Mendoza $13.95 (183848) 13.5% alcohol
Straightforward and crowd pleasing, this is worth a multiple purchase. Aromas of baking spice, toasty bits and dark, field berry fruit provide segue to a rich, involved wash of red cherry, dried currant and bramble berry flavours persisting through the palate and lengthy aftertaste mingling with good moderating acidity and juicy tang. Good to go now and pours well with meat-laden pizza, gourmet sausage or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Finca Sophenia ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2010
Tupungato, Mendoza $18.95 (066837) 14.0% alcohol
Taut and focused throughout, it opens with aromas of tobacco, toast and tar. There’s a juicy, tangy line of red cherry and red currant interspersed with mixed spice and herbs that washes over the palate with decent weight and texture. There’s a whack of tannin and oodles of acidity on the aftertaste—open 2015 to 2018. Try with spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Zucccardi ‘Santa Julia’ Magna 2011
Mendoza $14.95 (93799) 14.0% alcohol
Scoop up a few bottles of this outstanding blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah. Inky purple and alluringly rich in aromas of ripe dark fruit, mint, spice and vanilla; this is a well-balanced wine. Supple tannin and fresh acidity underpin the full-flavoured, luscious fruit—cassis, blueberry and raspberry—while the well-integrated oak offers a long-lasting spicy, peppery finish. Serve it with grilled or roasted red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $15.95 (167619) 14.5% alcohol
The heady aromas on the nose are dominated by black plum compote, fig and notions of pipe tobacco. Lively, juicy and fresh throughout, firm and focused flavours dominate the palate—red cherry, piquant spice and red currant. It’s mid-full bodied with decent texture with a mid-length finish of still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before pairing with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Concha Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Chardonnay 2012
Limari $19.95 (342857) 14.0% alcohol
Caramel apple and spice aromas intro a spirited wash of tangy lemon, mango and crisp green apple streaked with minerality. The cooling morning breezes, mineral-rich soil and semi-arid conditions influence the wines from this area. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering finish and aftertaste marked by ripe peach and pear nicely balanced with notions of lemon chiffon pie. Pour with grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Miguel Torres ‘Santa Digna Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Curicó Valley $13.95 (177444) 13.5% alcohol
Brilliant yellow-green, there are pungent grassy and gooseberry notes mingling with tropical fruit along with hints of lemon balm and other herbs. Dry, medium-bodied, it replays focused flavours of gooseberry and herbs underscored by vivid, tangy acidity. Finishing long, clean and mouth-watering, this works very well with pan-fried fish or a salad garnished with goat cheese and grilled peaches. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Emiliana ‘Novas Gran Reserva’ Petit Verdot 2011
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (325662) 14.5% alcohol
For well-made organic wines offering great value, it’s hard to beat this producer. Rich dark fruit melds with exotic spice and smoke on the intense nose. Dry and full bodied, this wine showcases firm tannin and clean acidity, harmonious with the concentrated spicy dark fruit—blueberries and blackberries come to mind. Robust and flavourful, dry and persistent on the finish, it’s a great choice for lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mountadam Estate Chardonnay 2009
High Eden, Eden Valley, South Australia $24.95 (333211) 14.0% alcohol
This is stylish and structured, approaching sensational. Expressive aromas of mocha, cinnamon and wood smoke abound. There’s a truckload of fruit on the palate with apple, pear and blood orange mixing it up with grilled pineapple, grapefruit and honeydew melon in the mix. The lingering finish is clean and stylish with orchard fruit, spice and mouth-watering citrus tang. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 2’ Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2011
South Australia $21.95 (468629) 14.5% alcohol
Penfolds is one of a handful of wineries in the world that you can purchase with confidence, just off the name. Baking spice, toast and black cherry aromas intro a full-bodied, generously textured wash of tangy black currant and ripe mulberry garnished with fennel, cracked pepper and spice. It’s silky smooth with a lengthy finish and aftertaste of berry fruit, soft acidity and fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 28 Kalimna’ Shiraz 2010
South Australia $34.95 (422782) 14.5% alcohol
Listed under ‘Distinguished’ in the vaunted Langton’s Classification, welcome to one of Australia’s top drops. More elegant and structured than fruit-forward and brassy, this is stylish with good complexity and delineation of flavours. Black currant and ripe mulberry are garnished by peppery notes, baking spice and toasty bits on the palate persisting through the delectable, lip-smacking aftertaste wreathed in deftly integrated sweet vanilla and oak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘The Siding’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (333229) 14.0% alcohol
Mocha, Asian spice and dark toast aromas provide intro to full-bodied and silky-smooth textured wave of ripe, sweet mulberry, black briary berry interspersed with bittersweet chocolate and cassis. The lingering finish pours on more ripe black fruit moderated with good acidity, soft tannin and sprigs of mint on the lip-smacking aftertaste. Good to go now and on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Mount Riley Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough/Nelson $19.95 (60137) 13.5% alcohol
A transparent cranberry hue, this silky red offers great structure and balance. The aromas include delicate floral notes, a touch of spice, earth and ripe cherry and strawberry. Dry, mid-weight, its tasty red fruit—cranberry, cherry and strawberry—is framed by lively acidity and lightly defined tannins. Notes of sweet spice mingle with fruit on the drying finish. There’s good value here. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
False Bay ‘Peacock Ridge’ Chenin Blanc 2012
WO Western Cape $14.95 (337576) 13.5% alcohol
Subtly yeasty, with notes of light citrus and mineral, this pale-gold wine offers attractive aromas and flavours. Displaying a note of residual sugar, it’s quite creamy, with delicate notes of pear, spice and white pepper balanced by light acidity. An easy-going wine that you can happily sit and sip or pair with seafood risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Diemersfontein Pinotage 2012
WO Wellington $19.95 (956409) 14.0% alcohol
You can’t get much more coffee/chocolate/mocha than this—the aromas of black coffee and chocolate garnished with notions of ripe, berry fruit and baking spice jump from the glass. Look for more of the same on the palate delivered with a silky smooth mouth feel and mid-full bodied weight and on the lengthy finish and aftertaste, you guessed it, more of the same. Pair with death-by-chocolate cake or chocolate mousse. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Pfaffenheim Pinot Gris 2011
AOC Alsace $14.95 (341883) 13.5% alcohol
Like a basket of fresh-picked fruit, the fragrance of this award-winning wine offers immediate appeal. Off-dry, medium bodied, it’s awash with aromas and flavours of juicy peach, apricot, pear and lime, the fruit finely balanced with acidity and a delicate, smoky, mineral note. Lovely flavour, great balance and value, it’s ideally paired with white meats, creamy cheese or lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** cellar
Domaine Bernard Defaix ‘Côte de Lechet Reserve’ Chablis 1er Cru 2010
AOC Chablis 1er Cru $33.95 (017541) 13.0% alcohol
The result of a judicious amount of oak shows up on the nose and texture, but not at all on the taste. Dark toast, hazelnut and cedar aromas presage a clean, refreshing wash of shimmering lemon acidity mingling with crisp apple and white grapefruit zest. These replay on the lip-smacking finish garnished with streaks of minerality and slate mingling with notions of key lime pie. Pour alongside freshly shucked oysters or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Cheval ‘Brun’ 2009
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $25.95 (303875) 13.5% alcohol
This well-respected AOC is often less pricey than others in Bordeaux. This Grand Cru delivers a value-laden package of good fruit, balance and structure suiting an early opening or four more years in bottle. Cedar, spice box and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue to a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of black plum and dark cherry garnished with espresso roast and bittersweet chocolate. Flavours replay on the lengthy, well-balance finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Blaye $15.95 (336875) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s excellent value from a lesser-known Bordeaux appellation, a Merlot-dominated gem with lifted aromas of cassis, smoke, spice and herbs, Dry, medium-full bodied, savoury red and black berries are garnished by dried herbs and black pepper. Structure is provided by lively acidity and gripping tannin, offsetting the mouth-filling fruit. Long and dry on the finish, it should be paired now with rare meats or cellar 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Château Le Chêne 2010
AOC Haut-Médoc $18.95 (339994) 13.0% alcohol
This appellation is a very large area—hence the relatively inexpensive price of this red—including all the great smaller AOCs of the Left Bank, including Margaux, Pauillac. True to the winery name, there are aromas from oak on the nose—toast and vanilla—garnished with fennel. A rich luscious wash of black currant, bramble berry and cassis bathe the palate persisting through the balanced, dry finish and aftertaste. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Nostre Païs Costières de Nîmes 2011
AOC Costières de Nîmes $19.95 (295410) 15.0% alcohol
Michel Gassier does a wonderful job of bringing out the best of this blend—Grenache, Carignan, Mouvèdre and Cinsault—showcasing a basket of ripe berries mingling with floral notes, vanilla and sweet spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, lashings of luscious dark fruits are garnished with black pepper and sweet spice offsetting the touch of heat on the long, full finish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier ‘La Bernardine’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $49.95 (972331) 14.5% alcohol
This is an upscale offering that’s well balanced with good structure and no small measure of complexity and charm from one the wine world’s greatest producers of fine wine. The palate’s coated with juicy, tangy fruit—red cherry, black currant and espresso roast to the fore. The finish is nicely balanced with ripe, red and black fruit, a fine-grained tannin underpinning and lip-smacking acidity. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Aydie ‘L’Origine’ 2010
AOC Madiran $15.95 (343566) 14.0% alcohol
Very approachable now, some wines from this region take decades because of the tannin imparted by the Tannat grape—this is a 70% Tannat, 30% Cabernet Franc blend. Tobacco dark toast and dark berry fruit herald a medium-full bodied, silky smooth river of black Bing cherry and juicy black plum. This is well paced and well priced with a spicy fruit-filled finish wrapped in supple tannin—a two-hour aeration/decant will resolve it. Well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Spencer La Pujade ‘Le P’Tit Spencer’ Corbieres 2011
AP Corbieres $14.95 (348821) 14.0% alcohol
Lively red fruit and spice aromas intro a juicy mouthful of sour cherry and ripe black berry wreathed in piquant spice, black licorice and notions of underbrush. Medium weight and nicely textured, the dry, mouth-watering finish continues with lively acidity layering on a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with grilled lamb chops and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler ‘Graacher Himmelreich’ Riesling Spätlese 2011
Prädikatswein $24.95 (339150) 8.0% alcohol
Slightly off-dry and very much on target, this showcases the Mosel at it’s best with an alluring aromas of orange blossom and honeysuckle presaging a solid line of acidity bolstered by peel marmalade, grilled pineapple and wisps of lychee on the palate followed by glorious sweet and tang on the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Balanced and beautiful, you won’t go wrong pouring this with spicy Asian cuisine like butter chicken or pad Thai—now to 2028. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Ciù Ciù ‘Merlatte’ Offida Pecorino 2011
DOCG Offida Pecorino $16.95 (245670) 14.0% alcohol
Pecorino is a grape producing complex white wine, often high in acidity with the body and texture to age, especially when grown in Offida—a newly minted, 2008, DOCG. Jumping from the glass with lively aromas of alluring floral notes, minerality and peach, this coats the palate with a fully textured wash of lemon-lime, minerality and slate garnished with white nectarine and grapefruit pith on the long finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink now
Bùcaro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (277491) 14.0% alcohol
Brilliant ruby, this is a nicely balanced offering whose aromas include ripe red fruit, spiced red rose, vanilla and underlying scents of cedar and smoked meat. Dry, medium-full bodied, supple tannin and fresh acidity underpin juicy red fruit with hints of spice, pepper and cedar-tinged toast persisting on the lively finish. Mouth-wateringly good. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Clavesana ‘Il Clou’ Dogliani Superiore 2010
DOCG Dogliani $16.95 (344747) 13.5% alcohol
This is a fabulous Dolcetto, richly aromatic with dark cherry, roasted herbs and spice. Tangy and lively on the palate, sour cherry and black currant interlace with savory herbs and good acidity throughout. Mid-weight, nicely textured with good complexity, the finish lingers with an Amarone-like bite on the aftertaste. Pour with meat-laden pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Gemma Barolo 2008
DOCG Barolo $29.95 (285502) 14.0% alcohol
Lilac, gamy notes and cedar on the nose, it streaks across the palate with nerve and verve. Sour cherry, red currant and cranberry interweave with riper mulberry in mid-weight, nicely textured waves. The aftertaste is dry, refreshing and mouth watering. Give this a go with pasta puttanesca or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sottimano ‘Bric Del Salto Dolcetto’ D’Alba 2011
DOC Alba $18.95 (330738) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, espresso roast and dark cherry/berry aromas open this medium-weight, silky-smooth Dolcetto. A river of dried currant, red cherry and ripe, sweet mulberry washes over the palate in waves. The finish and aftertaste are balanced with fruit and acidity only needing a two-hour aeration/decant to tone down the lick of tannin. Pair with well-seasoned, grilled rib-eye. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Resta Squinzano Rosso 2009
DOC Puglia $15.95 (338996) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of fresh herbs and savory spice abound. Streams of sour cherry, red currant and baking spice streak across the palate, infusing the persistent aftertaste. Medium bodied with decent texture, there’s a bracing line of acidity throughout and apparent on the aftertaste along with some tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours. (Vic Harradine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (047118) 13.5% alcohol
This is delectable and value-laden showcasing ripe, juicy fruit, good acidity, balance and complexity. Floral, sandalwood and black berry fruit interweave with savoury herbs and tobacco aromas. It unleashes a rich, robust, palate-bathing river of flavour with black currant, cassis and spiced black plum mingling with mocha and supple tannin. On the finish, it’s balanced and beautiful. Perfectly suited to grilled steak or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Fattoria le Fonti Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (295162) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted floral notes grace the nose, floating over aromas of cherry/berry, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium bodied, the wine has presence, a creamy yet lively texture and a fine structure framing savoury red fruit. The spicy aftertaste is pleasurably persistent. Enjoy it now or in the next couple of years with all manner of meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 cellar
Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
IGT Veneto $14.95 (987701) 13.5% alcohol
This is balanced and structured with oodles of fruit and a solid lick of tannin. Wood smoke, espresso roast and cooked, dark fruit aromas abound heralding a river of red and dark berry fruit, ripe dark cherry and mixed spice. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a juicy, tangy finish, lip-smacking good. Good to go 2015 and on to 2019. Pour alongside Moroccan short ribs tagine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi ‘Graticcio Appassimento Parziale’ 2011
IGT Veneto $15.95 (338939) 13.5% alcohol
A blend of indigenous varieties Corvina and Rondinella, there’s also a bit of Merlot in here. Espresso roast, berry fruit and oaky notes on the nose, it dishes up a wonderful array of flavour—juicy, Bing cherry, ripe, sweet mulberry and dried berry fruit interlaced with oodles of spice. It’s medium-full bodied with very good mouth feel and beautifully balanced aftertaste—the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
2011Alvaro Palacios ‘Camins del Priorat’ 2011
DOCa Priorat $22.95 (216291) 14.5% alcohol
Long recognised as doyen of Priorat and one of the world’s premiere vignerons, Palacios strikes again with a fabulously heady nose of dried currants, aromatic bitters and roasted herbs. Value-laden, complex and structured, there’s great purity and balance throughout. The palate’s treated to a mélange of red and black cherry with sweet, ripe boysenberry garnished with wisps of anise and sprigs of savory herbs. It’s mid-full weight with silky mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domeco de Jarauta ‘Lar de Sotomayor Vendimia Seleccionada’ 2010
DOC Rioja $17.95 (336099) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and aromatic on the nose, charred toast, black licorice and plum herald a gorgeously textured, medium-bodied wash of firm and focused tangy, juicy flavour. Flavours of ripe, sweet mulberry, black currant and juicy, dark cherry run rampant over the palate wreathed in spice and floral notes. It really gets into gear on the finish with a lingering aftertaste that’s fruit-filled and tangy, rich and complex. Grilled lamb with roasted veggies works well with this. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Lan ‘Gran Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $27.95 (928622) 14.0% alcohol
Gamy, leathery, espresso roast aromas herald a firm and focused line of sour cherry and red currant spraying over the palate enlivened with piquant spice and aromatic bitters. It’s medium weight with nice texture and lengthy finish garnished with lively acidity, a solid tannin underpinning and plenty of style and charm. Surprisingly tangy after nearly a decade, this pours well after a three-hour decant alongside pasta puttanesca or pasta arrabbiata. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2 drink now
Cottage Block Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (303149) 12.2% alcohol
This straightforward wine offers aromas of candied fruit and sweet spice combining with hints of vanilla and spice. Light-medium bodied, dry and fresh, the flavours replay juicy ripe red fruit spice and herbs framed by a fresh tangy texture. With its clean, refreshing aftertaste, this is a friendly, approachable quaffer. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Cottage Block Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (346601) 11.2% alcohol
This opens with notes of minerality interweaving with juicy citrus and wisps of lychee and Asian spice. A mouth-watering wave of flavour streaks across the palate—bracing lemon citrus notes and crisp, green apple—infusing the nicely textured, delicious finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own or alongside grilled or pan-seared fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)

(The following wine is at a special price - $11.95 - now to Sept. 15)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Primal Roots ‘White Blend’ 2011
California, $12.95 (321497) $12.95
This white blend—Viognier, Colombard, Riesling, Gewürztraminer—is drop-dead gorgeous and a true crowd pleaser. Alluring aromas of honeysuckle, rosewater, tangy citrus and spice herald a generously textured, medium-bodied wash of ripe pear, grilled pineapple and lemon curd. This is balanced and beautiful with a dazzling finish that’s refreshing and lip-smacking delectable. It won’t be on shelves for too long, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Strewn ‘Two Vines’ Cabernet-Merlot’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (590109) 13.3% alcohol
Overall, this is a well-balanced, focused wine that may be enjoyed now with seasoned grilled meats and will reward 6-12 months of further bottle age. Great value! There’s some evolution on the nose, a bowl of dark berry fruit beckons, wisps of underbrush and dill adding an earthy character. Dry, medium-full bodied, bell pepper, herbs, charry wood smoke and red fruit are underpinned by a firm structure. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Strewn ‘Dry Late Harvest’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $38.20 14.1% alcohol
Winemaker extraordinaire, Marc Bradshaw, put his stamp on this Amarone-styled red and it’ll knock your socks off. Rich, complex aromas abound—pipe tobacco, dried berry fruit, spice cake and rosewood. It wows the palate with a gusher of lush, ripe, dark cherry and spice-infused, juicy black plum mingling with bittersweet chocolate and sour cherry. It’s mid-full weight with generous texture and a drying, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Good to go now and on to 2018, only improving with age—it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Strewn ‘Winemaker’s Art’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.15 13.9% alcohol
This outstanding-value red steps up with lifted aromas of black currant, red cherry, sweet spice, cedar and underbrush. Dry, medium-full bodied, this is a substantial wine that marries lively acidity and perceptible tannin to juicy. tangy, spiced red and black berries. Dried herbs, subtle notes of oak and dark chocolate garnish a clean, crisp, flavourful finish. Well paired now with rare meats, this wine will reward a further 2-3 years’ aging. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Strewn ‘Canadian Oak’ Meritage 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.15 13.3% alcohol
Weaving together aromas of sweet fruit, roasted herbs, vanilla, tobacco leaf and spicy, red rose, this is an involved and intricate 6-barrel blend of the Cabernets and Merlot. Dry, mid-weight, it delivers great balance, a lovely silky texture, supple tannin and the briary tang of red and black berries. Herbal notes, pepper and toasty warmth linger on the lasting finish. Savour alongside roast duck with cherries or grilled venison tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

New in Private Order

**** drink or cellar
La Croix du Barris Crémant de Limoux Brut Non-Vintage
AOP Crémant de Limoux, France $21.95 12.0% alcohol
A delightful blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, this offers up a nose of floral notes, citrus and green apple. It floods the palate with a surge of bubbles and refreshing flavour—lemon curd, white peach and crisp refreshing apple and pear. It’s nicely balanced and mid-weight with good mousse and excellent mouth feel. It finishes in a lip-smacking blaze of key lime and minerality. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
La Croix du Barris ‘Rouge’ Limoux 2006
AOP Limoux, France $21.95 12.0% alcohol
Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon all make an appearance here. The winery suggests pouring with charcuterie or a cheese plate. There are plenty of herbal aromas, roasted herbs and red and dark berry fruit. It’s mid weight with good texture dishing up a gentle wash of dark berry fruit mingling with garrigue—a local blend of herbs and spice with a good sampling of aromatic lavender. The finish is lively with good tang, a grind of black pepper and fresh acidity melding with riper black plum. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas Nilo ‘Bianca’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
DO Rueda, Spain $16.95 12.0% alcohol
Floral, herbal and citrus aromas open this nicely paced gem. It steaks across the palate with great nerve and verve—lemon tang, mineral tones and oodles of lime zest included. It’s mid weight with decent texture and a crisp, refreshing finish and aftertaste. Sips well on its own and pours perfectly with pan-seared trout or pickerel garnished with a gentle press of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Nilo ‘Bianca’ Verdejo 2012
DO Rueda, Spain $15.95 13.0% alcohol
Notes of citrus, white peach and white flower mingle with an elusive hint suggestive of jalapeño pepper. Dry yet smooth and supple, this attractive wine is clean, well-balanced, matching fresh acidity to flavours of ripe apple, citrus—grapefruit and orange peel to the fore—and a touch of spice and pepper that carry through the finish. An easy-drinking wine to serve on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
La Font du Vent ‘Notre Passion’ Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2011
AOP Côtes-du-Rhônes Villages, France $14.95 14.5% alcohol
A decidedly fruity blend of Grenache and Syrah, this semi-transparent wine breathes red cherry/berry fruit with a fine whiff of wood smoke and vanilla. Sweet fruit washes across the palate on entry – liquid raspberry pie comes to mind—complemented by spice and pepper. Medium bodied, flavourful and juicy, supported by fine-grained tannin and clean acidity, this is an easy-drinking red finishing with a fruity, peppery flourish. Absolutely gulp-able. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Domaine de la Foliette ‘Clos de la Fontaine’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2012
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, France $12.95 12.0% alcohol
This is from 55-year-old vines. Leesy and mineral aromas interlace with green apple and pear on the lively nose. There’s a notion of prickly spritz on the palate preceding a surge of lemon curd melding with crisp green apple, key lime and white grapefruit. It’s light-medium bodied with very good mouth feel and the finish dazzles with a blaze of lip-smacking tang. Pour with grilled fish, pan-seared seafood or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Two Glasses!
Pantaleone ‘Atto I’ Sangiovese 2009
IGT Marche, Italy $21.95 14.0% alcohol
Produced from organic grapes, Vic and I found this to be a remarkable Sangiovese offering rich aromas of ripe berries, black cherry, roast herbs, smoke meat and earthy mineral. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s lush and fruity, loaded with flavours of dark berries, spice, pepper and toasty oak. Well crafted, the fruit is nicely balanced with clean acidity and supple tannin. Enjoy with grilled lamb or steak. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Pometti ‘Tino Tre’ 2012
IGT Toscana, Italy $29.95 13.5% alcohol
From 100% Cabernet Franc aged in French oak, this value-packed gem was fashioned at a chic, modern facility at a centuries-old family vineyard. Aromas of roasted herbs, wood smoke and dark coffee provide segue to a persistent, tangy wash of black berry fruit, sour cherry and ripe mulberry interlaced with piquant spice and wisps of ripe, fine-grained tannin. It’s mid weight with very good texture and a lingering, juicy aftertaste. Pour with hearty stew like osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pometti ‘Rosso’ Toscana 2009
IGT Toscana, Italy $14.25 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—Sangiovese and international varieties—offers aromas of red berry fruit, toasty oak and herbal notes on the nose. It’s mid weight with a silky smooth texture showing good balance and interesting complexity. It finishes with good length, a supple tannin underpinning and charry notes garnished with blueberry and a dollop of lip-smacking tang. This is lively and fresh throughout with a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pometti ‘Rosso - 106’ Orsia 2010
DOC Orsia, Italy $21.75 13.0% alcohol
Predominantly Sangiovese, this red blend is bistro-styled with aromas of mocha and dark briary berry. It opens with alluring flavours bathing the palate—dark chocolate and black, juicy cherry interweaving with spice and some tarry notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and an aftertaste that’s juicy and lively while providing something akin to an Amarone bite on the finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pometti ‘Villa Boscarello’ Merlot 2008
IGT Toscana, Italy $28.95 13.0% alcohol
The producer of this wine has a large estate which has been in his family for hundreds of years. In 1998, he decided to replant vines, including the grapes picked for this ‘Super Tuscan’ Merlot; it was then aged in barriques. Shy and subtle on the nose, one teases out aromas of plum, berry, spice, vanilla and milk chocolate. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine displays a generous, satiny texture on entry, clean lively acidity, subtle tannins and well-integrated cedary notes of oak. Red and black berry flavours dominate, married to touches of spice, toast and mocha. Well paced and elegant, the finish is pleasantly spicy. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
La Purísima ‘Estio’ Rosé 2012
DO Yecla, Spain $10.75 12.5% alcohol
Delightful aromas of cran-apple, raspberry and strawberry rush from the glass of this approachable rosé, crafted from a blend of Monastrell, Syrah and Tempranillo. Tangy, juicy, a touch peppery, it’s loaded with red berries—cranberry, strawberry and red currant—well-balanced by lively acidity. A flavourful, quaffable wine with a refreshing, fruity finish, it stands on its own or may be paired with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Terra Vitis ‘La Foliette’ 2012
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, France $12.95 12.0% alcohol
Enjoy the piercing aromas of citrus, apple, mineral and yeast of this fine, dry wine. Light-mid weight, clean and fresh, it offers lip-smacking flavours of ripe apple, tangy citrus pith and the roundness of pear. It’s light and lively on the lengthy finish, a match to your choice of shellfish. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan