August 28, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – only five of the +60 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines; three in the Main Release, two in ‘Consignment Wine’ following the Main release, with a price range from $11.50 to $17.95.
• Vic’s picks – Joseph Cattin Pinot Blanc 2011 with 4 stars @ 15.95 under France: White Wine; Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009 4½ stars @ $35.95 under Italy; Jacquart ‘Mosaïque’ Brut Non Vintage Champagne 4½ stars @ $44.95 under New In Vintages and, of course, all the exceptional value wines!
• 5-star wine – no wines managed to ring the 5-star bell this newsletter.

Over 60 wines tasted, spat and reviewed with many from the August 31, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the 90 Plus Feature.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

August 31, 2013 Vintages Release

90 Plus Feature

Cave Spring Vineyard ‘Cave Spring CSV’ Riesling 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (566026) 11.5% alcohol
Loaded with flavour, complexity and structure, it dishes up a delightful, stylish and juicy Riesling. Mineral and key lime aromas herald a persistent and focused wash of silky smooth flavour with lime yoghurt, white peach and crisp, green apple to the fore. It’s mid weight with peach, pear and racy citrus on the lengthy, dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. A premium producer and delectable sipping experience mark this as special. (Vic Harradine)


Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2011
Sonoma Coast, California $76.95 (251223) 14.1% alcohol
A heady involved nose opens this perennial favourite—sweet vanilla, hazelnut, tropical fruit and exotic spice. Palate-caressing, well-structured flavours of crisp, green apple, nectarine and lemon zest abound garnished with notions of toasty oak persisting through the balanced, lingering finish. It’s medium-full bodied, deftly balanced and fully textured with oodles of complexity and depth. It may stretch the budget, but it’s delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Gallo Family ‘Laguna Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $19.95 (544981) 14.0% alcohol
This is a crowd pleaser with a price-quality balance tipped in your favour. Floral, honeyed pit fruit and wisps of sandalwood on the nose, it coats the palate with medium-full bodied, hugely textured waves of ripe peach and pear, a salad bowl of tropical fruit and oaky notes mingling with baking spice persisting through the long, luxurious aftertaste. Pour alongside roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley, California $49.95 (091058) 14.3% alcohol
Full bodied and fully textured, it delivers in spades—complexity, structure, balance and flavour. Rich aromas of espresso roast, black brambly berry and charred, toasty oak abound. A river of luscious, black currant, baking spice, black licorice and dark bittersweet chocolate coat the palate. The finish is balanced and beautiful with total harmony between fruit, acidity, well-integrated oak and fine-grained tannin. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Achaval Ferrer Malbec 2011
Mendoza, Argentina $24.95 (024737) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of pipe tobacco, cedar and dark berry fruit presage a unique flavour profile of tangy lemon drop, menthol, mineral/slate and racy red fruit—currant and cherry. It’s full bodied and generously textured with flavours replayed on the long, herb-infused finish. Good to go now alongside spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)


Zind-Humbrecht ‘Turckheim’ Riesling 2010
AOC Alsace, France $26.95 (031039) 13.0% alcohol
Exuberant aromas and flavours are hallmarks of Z-H wines. Lively aromas of honeysuckle, mixed spice and gooseberry jelly precede an explosion of flavours spreading across the palate, infusing the lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste—tropical fruit, apricot flan and peach cobbler mingling with tangy, lemon curd. This has the structure and oomph to pour well with lemon chicken or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)


Château Haut Selve 2009
AOC Graves, Bordeaux, France $20.95 (738120) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, ripe dark fruit and toasty oak aromas open this mid-weight, nicely textured, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend. Ripe, dark fruit—currant and cherry—interlace with spice box and a solid lick of tannin on the palate and mid-length aftertaste. This cellar-dweller will reward patience, pop corks 2015 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)


Château Hyot 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon, Bordeaux $16.95 (063537) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of toasty oak and earthy tones introduce a tangy, juicy line of red currant, cranberry and sour cherry broadening out on the mid palate with briary berry and black Bing cherry. It’s medium bodied and well textured with a mid-length, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with meat-laden pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Dauvergne-Ranvier ‘Grand Vin’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AP Châteauneuf-du-Pape, RhôneValley, France $36.95 (274506) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, cedar and dark, cherry/berry on the nose, it spreads over the palate with tangy, lively flavours of red cherry, currant, black plum and sprigs of herbs interwoven with spice. Mid weight and nicely textured, it boasts a solid line of racy, red fruit and juicy tang throughout the mid-length aftertaste. Good to go now accompanied by red pizza or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Joh. Jos. Christoffel ‘Erben Urziger Würzgarten’ Riesling Spätlese 2011
Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany $24.95 (336396) 8.5% alcohol
Lifted and lively aromas jump from the glass with minerality, floral notes and honeyed citrus. Rich ripe, flavours of grilled pineapple and candied orange interweave with lemon drop on the palate and through the lip-smacking finish. It’s medium bodied with loads of mouth feel and a lengthy finish of that special sweet and tang, yin and yang, pairing so perfectly with spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)


Rivera Cappellaccio ‘Riserva’ Aglianico 2006
DOC Castel del Monte, Puglia, Italy $17.95 (305276) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gem, balanced and beautiful throughout It’s rich and aromatic on the nose with tobacco, exotic spice and dark cherry drenching the palate with juicy black cherry, red currant, espresso roast and notions of dark, bittersweet chocolate. Mid-full weight, with good complexity, it finishes long and luxurious with fruit, acidity and the supple, tannin structure all in synch. Pop corks now to 2020 with rare-grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)


Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $24.95 (977629) 13.5% alcohol
Sandalwood, roasted herbs and dark coffee aromas herald a rich and luscious line of flavour—dark cherry and briary berry mingling with spice-infused blueberry and spice. It’s smooth and mellow with good weight, depth and complexity. The aftertaste rolls out a lengthy wash of dark fruit framed by moderating acidity and a ripe tannin underpinning. This pours well with shredded-chicken manicotti in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Aldegheri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
DOC Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy $51.95 (987305) 15.0% alcohol
Underbrush, dark berry fruit and sprigs of savory herbs introduce a complex surge of tangy, rich flavour—black currant and Bing cherry interlacing with bittersweet chocolate and black licorice. It’s medium-full bodied and fully textured with a lingering finish of kirsch liqueur, good acidity and a sweet tannin underpinning. The aftertaste layers on that lovely Amarone bite. Pair with pasta arrabbiata or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Luis Cañas ‘Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja, Spain $22.95 (334094) 14.5% alcohol
Black plum, eucalyptus and cedar aromas provide segue for a complex and structured, predominantly Tempranillo, red blend. Waves of sweet, ripe mulberry, bramble berry and juicy black plum wash over the palate dominating the lengthy finish. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and an aftertaste of tangy, sour cherry and perceptible tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)


Ramón Bilbao ‘Reserva’ 2006
DOCa Rioja, Spain $19.95 (281097) 14.0% alcohol
Earthiness, sweet vanilla and floral tones dominate the nose while complex and exotic flavours infuse the palate with tangy cassis, dark berry fruit and baking spice to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with decent texture and a tangy, tannic aftertaste that finishes with a sour cherry bite. Pour alongside pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Champagne

Billecart-Salmon ‘Brut’ Rosé Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $91.95 (724559) 12.0% alcohol
My first taste of this, and it’s dreamy delicious with character, complexity and charm—a very impressive bubbly. Baking brioche, red berry fruit and fennel aromas presage a vigorous mousse and oodles of assertive flavour with strawberry/raspberry, citrus tang and racy, blood orange galore. There’s good weight and mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. The perfect aperitif, it has the structure and depth to pair with sea food or roast poultry. (Vic Harradine)


Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $99.95 (158550) 12.0% alcohol 

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this was vinified saignée—all red grapes, not red wine mixed with white—capturing tantalizing spice, red licorice and berry fruit aromas and an alluring salmon-pink colour. It attacks the palate with mid weight, generous textures and a groundswell of flavour with black currant, strawberry and spiced Damson plum to the fore. This is lovely sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with pan-seared salmon or a festive bird. (Vic Harradine)


Taittinger ‘Brut Réserve’ Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $62.95 (814723) 12.5% alcohol

From one of the great ‘Grand Marque’ Champagne houses—only 24 members—this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Honeyed pear and green apple on the nose, it showcases a gorgeous attack of crisp refreshing flavours—white grapefruit, racy lemon and ripe white peach—carried along on an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles. The refreshing aftertaste is lengthy and spice-infused. It delivers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Antech ‘Grande Réserve Brut’ Blanquette de Limoux 2011
AOC Limoux, France $16.95 (656470) 12.0% alcohol
Toast, minerality and notions of rising bread dough provide entry to a wonderfully crisp and refreshing bubbling up of flavour with white peach, crisp green apple and lemon curd making an appearance on the palate. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel and crisp, refreshing flavour on the dry finish and aftertaste. It’s a party-starter with a price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Michele Chiarlo ‘Nivole’ Moscato d’Asti 2012
DOCG Asti, Piedmont, Italy $16.95 (942888) 5.0% alcohol
Summer sunshine in a glass; it’s for sipping and not for serious analysis—it’s where fizz and frivolity hook up. Musky, floral and spice notes on the nose, it bathes the palate with sweet, lo-octane flavours of nectarine and mango with wisps of apricot. It’s light on its feet with just enough acidity on the finish to pull it all together. If you’ve not tried, you must. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Calamus Riesling 2011 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $16.95 (158642) 12.0% alcohol 

Bright pale yellow, the nose offers subtle aromas of ripe stone and orchard fruit with a hint of sweet woodruff, citrus and mineral. Vibrant, tangy and fruity, you’ll enjoy the crisp texture, a hint of spritz and delicious ripe peach, apricot and apple with a squeeze of lemon/lime. The fruit flavours are nicely balanced by zesty acidity through a refreshing finish. Pair with a grilled chicken Caesar salad or cellar mid-term. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)


Creekside Estate ‘Laura’s White’ 2009

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (121764)12.7% alcohol

Aromas of exotic spice, honeysuckle and tropical fruit waft freely from this tangy, artfully blended gem—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat and Viognier. It dishes up a crisp, refreshing river of tropical fruit, apple and juicy citrus on the palate and mouth-watering aftertaste. Sips beautifully on its own or poured with skillet-seared fish or seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (193482) 13.0% alcohol
Green apple and ripe pear aromas interlace with gun flint and smoky notes on the nose of this gem. It’s balanced and beautiful on the palate via a gusher of crisp Granny Smith apple, white nectarine and juicy Bosc pear. It’s mid weight with silky smooth mouth feel and lengthy balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Hess Collection Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $28.95 (709394) 14.0% alcohol
Toasted almonds, smoky notes and baking spice aromas precede flavours of ripe apple, lemon tang and poached pear. Medium-full bodied with decent texture, the finish replays palate flavours while the aftertaste layers on a grapefruit pith bite. (Vic Harradine)


Sivas-Sonoma Chardonnay 2011
Sonoma Coast $21.95 (339671) 13.5% alcohol
Orchard fruit, red licorice and sweet vanilla provide segue to a racy, tangy line of green apple, mineral/slate tones, tangy lemon and rip pear. The medium-length finish provides a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

Napa Valley $19.95 (25106) 14.5% alcohol 

The quality of this wine makes Vic and me glad the Indelicato brothers came back to their roots after ‘escaping’ the family farm. Dense and dark, this outstanding, finely balanced, dry red offers lovely aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar, spiced vanilla and fragrant, dried herbs. Dry, full bodied, it’s a warm, approachable, intensely flavourful gem displaying well-integrated oak, fresh acidity and velvety tannins married to a core of sweet, spiced cassis, blackberry and plum. Great fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Michael David ‘Petite Petit’ 2010
Lodi $24.95 (213017) 14.5% alcohol
This aromatic red blend—85% Petite Syrah, 15% Petit Verdot—hustles from the glass with dark coffee, menthol, cedar and notions of sweet vanilla and dark berry fruit. A wall of flavour coats the palate with wood smoke, tarry bits and peppery herbs and spice garnished with black currant and ripe mulberry. It’s grainy on the finish with loads of tang and wisps of tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)


Simi ‘Alexander Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $24.95 (025221) 13.5% alcohol
Good value, dark, dense and stylish, this was tough to spit. Aromas of black plum, cracked black pepper and sandalwood are wreathed in dark briary berry on the nose. It’s mid-full weight with good texture. A rich, balanced and concentrated gusher of black currant, cassis and juicy bramble berry persist through the lengthy, balanced aftertaste underpinned by still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours or pop corks 2015 – 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Elderton ‘Friends’ Shiraz 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (660480) 13.5% alcohol
Earthy, spicy and chockfull of currants and dark cherry on the nose, it spills over the palate in waves—racy red currant and tangy cranberry interplaying with riper briary berry and mulberry. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous, fleshy mouth feel and a dry, tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Katnook ‘Founder’s Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (660332) 13.5% alcohol
Katnook produces über-premium Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz; this entry-level gem doesn’t disappoint. Graphite, lilac, mint and dark, briary berry aromas provide segue to a balanced and beautiful river of sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black currant persisting through the juicy, tangy, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid-full bodied with good texture and a lick of supple tannin. Good to go now with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Babich ‘Black Label’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (009142) 13.0% alcohol
Lively and lifted aromas pack the room with herbaceous notes, green nettles and passion fruit galore. It streaks across the palate with a bracing line of racy acidity, wisps of passion fruit and canned peas. These replay on the tangy finish along with a bite of grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Two Rivers of Marlborough ‘Convergence’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (277707) 13.0% alcohol
There’s a heady nose of gun flint, gooseberry and grassy bits presaging a lively wash of tangy key lime, gooseberry jelly and lemon curd on the palate. This is medium weight with nice mouth feel and a lengthy aftertaste that layers on lemongrass, sprigs of herbs and lemon pie filling. Give this a go with breaded calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2011

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.00 (590414) 13.5% alcohol

Toast, earthiness and cedar interweave with red and black currant heralding a bright, ruby-red, flavourful river of sour cherry, blueberry and spice-infused black plum. This is mid weight, nicely textured with a wisp of tannin underpinning the lengthy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Very versatile—pour with roast chicken, smoked turkey, veal dishes or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Ernie Els Wines ‘Guardian Peak’ Shiraz 2011
WO Western Cape $13.95 (652602) 14.5% alcohol
Rich aromas of black currant and blueberry mingle with spice preceding a gusher of balanced, rich and concentrated flavour with boysenberry, black currant and dark, juicy, Bing cherry to the fore. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and lingering luxurious aftertaste with dark fruit, juicy tang and sweet, fine-grained tannin melding in a delectable experience. Hard to pass, if a red wine enthusiast looking for value. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Joseph Cattin Pinot Blanc 2011
AOC Alsace $15.95 (224642) 12.5% alcohol
The nose is lifted and alluring with aromas of honeyed orchard fruit, floral notes and Asian spice. The palate’s bathed with lemon-lime tang, white peach and ripe pear. Mid weight with decent texture, it delivers on the finish with a balanced, mouth-watering aftertaste. A perfect quaffer with an advantageous price-quality ratio; it’s skewed in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Château de Sancerre Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $23.95 (340893) 13.0% alcohol
Sprigs of herbs, canned peas and citrus aromas herald a tight, tangy line of minerality, pear and crisp green apple wreathed in lemon acidity. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and a racy, refreshing, mouth-watering finish with a bite of white grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Roux Père & Fils ‘La Perrière’ Mercurey 2011
AOC Mercurey $19.95 (692756) 13.0% alcohol
This is rich and smooth as silk with a balanced, lip-smacking finish and plenty of charm. Dark chocolate, exotic spice, dark berry/cherry and tobacco aromas open this racy Pinot Noir. Oodles of lively red fruit flavours burst over the palate—sour cherry and red currant predominant, balanced with sweet mulberry and ripe strawberry. Pour with smoked duck breasts over mesclun salad with mango chutney vinaigrette. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Le Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Village $13.95 (224592) 15.0% alcohol
This is luscious and hedonistic with oodles of flavour, flair and charm. Rosewood, black licorice and espresso roast complement the dark berry fruit aromas. Rich, ripe and stylish throughout, black currant, juicy black cherry and tangy briary berry bathe the palate garnished with mixed spice and notions of dark coffee. It’s mid-full weight with silky mouth feel and lingering finish that replays fruit moderated by good acidity underpinned by fine-grained tannin. Tuck a few under your arm. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: White Wine

Santo Assyrtiko 2011
PDO Santorini $16.95 (627760) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of herbs and ripe orchard fruit presage a refreshing spray of lemon tang and gooseberry along with crisp green apple and wisps of apricot. There’s a lingering mouth-watering finish with a citrus pith bite on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Schreckbich Colterenzio Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige $18.95 (293399) 13.5% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Grigio dishes up an alluring, aromatic nose of ripe apple and pear mingling with slate/mineral notes. Lively flavours of peach, apple and lemon yoghurt dance over the palate joined by crisp, refreshing citrus tang on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)


Falchini Vigna A Solatio Vernaccia Di San Gimignano 2012
DOCG San Gimignano $16.95 (994012) 12.5% alcohol
A delicate array of aromas—honeyed pit fruit, floral and flinty/mineral notes—presage a racy line of lemon-lime, pineapple and grapefruit. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a crisp refreshing finish and a tangy bite on the aftertaste. Pour with freshly shucked oysters or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOCG Valpolicella Classico $35.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
Rich + depth + concentration + delectable = hedonistic, and this is all of that. Alluring aromas of tar, dark berry fruit and anise mingle with roasted herbs and spice box. Palate-coating, sweet, ripe mulberry and black cherry interweave with dark bittersweet chocolate, dried currants and spice—full-bodied fully textured. The finish replays along with lip-smacking tang and oodles of style and charm. Perfect with shards of aged, hard cheese-Cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta de Lubazim ‘Lupucinus’ Reserva 2009 

DOC Douro, Portugal $19.95 (336297) 14.0% alcohol

Savoury, tobacco and heady aromas of spiced black plum roll from this tangy, full-flavoured, robust red. Medium-full bodied with good mouth feel. Oodles of spice-infused black currant and sweet, ripe cherry mingle with herbaceous, savoury bits and racy acidity. It’s nicely balanced with good structure and a lingering smooth and mellow finish. Good to go now with grilled beefsteak or beef short ribs. (Vic Harradine) 

Spain: Red Wine

Valserrano Crianza 2009
DOCa Rioja $18.95 (338863) 14.0% alcohol
Notes of balsamic, cedar and dark cherry/berry fruit provide segue for a rich and complex flow of dark cherry, cranberry tang and cassis washing over the plate in mid-weight, nicely textured waves. It finishes with good acidity and wisps of still-resolving tannin—aerate/decant three hours before serving. Pour with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: September 14, 2013

Fielding Estate ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Gris 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (251108) 12.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of pineapple and tropical fruit dance from this mouth-watering beauty. A balanced, refreshing wash of white peach and mandarin orange mingle with lime and mineral tones on the palate. The mouth feel is silky smooth and the finish crisp and lip-smacking good. Good to go sipped on its own and pours well with all manner of pan-seared or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 12, 2013

One + One = Three ‘Cygnus Reserva’ Brut Nature Cava Non-Vintage
DO Cava, Spain $19.95 (352856) 11.5% alcohol
There’s very good value here. This sparkling, organic gem was produced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes— Xarel-lo 40%, Parellada 30% and Macabeo 30%. Lifted aromas of apple and pear interweave with mint and wisps of piquant ginger heralding flavours of apple, mineral/slate and strawberry wreathed in lemon curd and toasty notes. This has good mousse and a delightfully refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—certainly a cut above the norm. Pour with steamed mussels or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

LCBO Release: October 13, 2013

Cattail Creek ‘Estate Series’ Pinot Noir 2010 

VQA Four Mile Creek $18.95 (257303) 12.5% alcohol 
This is a delightful, top-drawer, Niagara Pinot worth seeking out, again and again. Fragrant, enchanting aromas of cedar, tobacco and piquant spice wreathed in red berry fruit herald an elegant, flavourful, light-on-its-feet gem. It bathes the palate with an elegant wash of red currant and juicy red cherry, spice-laden tang. This is well balanced with good structure and a lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour with smoked duck breasts, roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 26, 2013

Fielding Estate ‘Estate Bottled’ Riesling 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 10.0% alcohol
One of my favourite Riesling styles from a top-notch producer—what’s not to like? The lifted, lively nose—mineral/slate, key lime and pit fruit—heralds a glorious gusher of lip-smacking flavour with tangy grapefruit, orange peel and lemon curd to the fore. Showcasing lovely sweet and tang on the aftertaste, it’s lively, crisp and refreshing throughout. Pour alongside a spicy Asian dish or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages – released August 17th, this was just tasted and worth bringing to your attention; still a few bottles in stores, pick them up, if you can – I intend to.

Jacquart ‘Mosaïque’ Brut Non Vintage
AOC Champagne, France $44.95 (664672) 12.5% alcohol
This is one of life’s few ‘affordable luxuries’; always nice to have a bottle or two on hand for special occasions. It’s mostly Chardonnay with lesser amounts of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It opens with aromas of baking bread and citrus before bubbling up with fresh, lively flavour—ripe pear and crisp apple garnished with lemony tang and wisps of herbs and honeydew melon. It certainly dishes up gorgeous texture and persistent, fine-bead bubbles—a good thing—and a refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—a very good thing. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Cattail Creek ‘Creek Series’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Four Mile Creek $14.95 (241547) 11.5% alcohol 

This is balanced, generously textured and mouth-wateringly delicious. Planting Riesling vines 37 years ago, these folks and this wine deserve your attention. Aromas of honeysuckle and mineral herald a delightful river of yellow plum, grilled pineapple and racy lemon zest. The sweet and tang on the finish set this up as a gorgeous wine for sipping or pouring with pad Thai or tandoori chicken. (Vic Harradine) 


Cattail Creek ‘Creek Series’ Cabernet/Merlot 2010 

VQA Four Mile Creek $14.95 (344135) 12.5% alcohol 
Dark toast, cigar box and wisps of cassis precede a balanced wash of black currant, red cherry and notions of earthy truffle bathing the palate. Medium-full bodied and fully textured, the lingering finish and aftertaste suggest ripe dark berry fruit, a firm tannin structure and excellent moderating acidity. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and pour with rare-grilled, seasoned hangar steak—great value here. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding Estate ‘Red Conception’ 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 12.5% alcohol
There’s very good value in this lovely red blend—Cab Franc, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Syrah—opening with aromas of roasted herbs, pipe tobacco and field berry fruit. Mid-weight, nicely textured waves of red currant and tart sour cherry interweave with juicy black currant and black plum. The lengthy, balanced finish of black cherry and mulberry is underpinned by supple tannin and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)   


Fielding Estate ‘White Conception’ 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13.5% alcohol  

There’s terrific value here from the get go with alluring aromas of honeysuckle, fragrant herbs and tropical fruit aromas. It’s medium bodied with silky smooth mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful river of apple, pear and nectarine interweaving with zingy orange zest. The lengthy, mouth-watering finish invites sipping on its own or pairing with roast chicken, pork or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Fielding Estate Cabernet-Merlot 2010

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 13.5% alcohol  

Mocha, espresso roast and oodles of dark berry fruit aromas on the nose, it settles on the palate with a solid core of delectable, structured and balanced flavour with red cherry, ripe mulberry and plenty of charm. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and supple tannin underpinning. The finish lingers. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with grilled beef steak. (Vic Harradine) 

New in Consignment Wine

Order the following three Grady Family Vineyards wines by the case from Noteworthy Wines. For daily home or office delivery email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or in London, ON phone (519) 914-1204.


Grady Family Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Lodi, California $25.00 13.8% alcohol
Subtle aromas of cooked plums and red cherry open this mid-weight, nicely textured tangy Cab. There’s a racy line of red fruit—cherry, cranberry and currant—lively and juicy throughout. The finish is full of nerve and verve and mouth-watering gusto, replaying palate flavours garnished with notes of black currant, spice and still resolving tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)


Grady Family Vineyards Petite Sirah 2010
Lodi, California $25.00 14.5% alcohol
Deep and dark in the glass, aromas of spice box, dark berry fruit and wood smoke abound. Rich, ripe and concentrated, spice-laden fruit flavour coats the palate—black plum compote and briary berry, followed by wisps of toasty oak. It’s mid-full weight with great mouth feel and a lengthy, stylish finish with baking spice and juicy black berry supported by good acidity and fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Grady Family Vineyards ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2009
Lodi, California $25.00 15.2% alcohol
Boysenberry jam, sweet vanilla and mixed spice presage a huge mouthful of tangy black cherry, currants and espresso roast. This is medium-full weight with a very generous texture on the palate. It finishes with good tang and loads of red and black fruit on the finish and lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Consignment Wine

Quinta das Camélias ‘Reserva’ Dão 2010
DOC Dão, Portugal $11.50 13.5% alcohol
Rich, dark berry fruit, wood smoke and menthol herald a deep, concentrated gusher of richly flavoured dark, juicy cherry and tangy bramble berry coating the palate persisting through the rich, balanced aftertaste. There’s structure, complexity and no shortage of flavour. Wisps of tannin suggest a two-hour aeration decant or a further six months before opening. It pairs well with grilled ribs, steak or a hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order Wine

Domaine La Font du Mont ‘Notre Passion’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2010
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône, France $14.95 13.5% alcohol
Dark spice, pipe tobacco and red berry fruit herald a mid-weight, balanced and gorgeous array of palate-bathing flavours. Red cherry and notions of red currant mingle with mixed spice and toasty bits. It’s fully textured and long on the finish with good fruit, tangy acidity and a lick of still-resolving tannin lining up for attention. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours or wait until 2014 before popping corks and pouring with grilled or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)


Cascina Del Pozzo Roero Arneis 2012
DOCG Roero Arneis, Italy $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of honeysuckle, key lime and mineral/slate notes open this beautifully balanced mouthful of flavour and charm. A stylish wash of grilled pineapple, white peach and crisp Granny Smith apple ripple over the palate persisting through the lengthy lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight with considerable texture and notions of honeyed fruit peeking through on the aftertaste. Pour alongside roast pork and veggie risotto. (Vic Harradine)


Gonnet ‘Rhône Selection’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2012
AOP Côtes-du-Rhône, France $11.95 14.5% alcohol
This is a lively, fresh Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blend that spills from the glass with red cherry, spice and wisps of currant. It’s a crowd pleaser from start to finish. A loaded-with-flavour wash of black currant, rich, dark cherry and fennel bathe the palate in waves. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and excellent balance. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Font De Michelle ‘CuvéeTradition’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France $39.95 14.5% alcohol
This delectable red blend, 70% Grenache/10% Syrah/10% Mourvèdre/10% Counoise, is a rich, luscious red with wonderful texture, balance and cellarability. Dark toasted oak, black cherry, balsamic and black licorice aromas provide segue to a gusher of medium-full bodied, silky smooth black currant, red cherry and truffle. It finishes lengthy and luscious with good fruit, moderating acidity and a gentle wisp of still-resolving tannin, Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2015-2022. (Vic Harradine)


Pertico Merlot 2012
IGT Venezie, Italy $12.50 13.0% alcohol
Lifted and lively aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice provide introduction to a solid line of racy tang—a river of sour cherry and red currant streaking across the palate. It’s light on its feet with good focus and persistence, the flavours replay through the juicy lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Best poured with pasta in tomato sauce or meat/tomato lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Babylon’s Peak Shiraz/Carignan 2012
WO Swartland, South Africa $14.75 14.0% alcohol
Fashioned from old, dry-farmed, hand-harvested, low-yielding bush vines in the dry, blistering-hot Swartland District, aromas of black licorice, rich dark berry fruit and heady black plum compote abound. A balanced gusher of dark, juicy cherry and ripe mulberry interlace with charry toast and fennel on the palate. It’s mid weight with good texture and a juicy finish that’s silky smooth, balanced and complex with a lengthy aftertaste of salty, black licorice. Terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan