August 14, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – only five of the +70 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines. Four in the Main Release, one following, all under $17.95.
• Niagara College Teaching Winery – six wines reviewed in the New in Ontario Wineries section, the final section of the newsletter, don’t miss them.
• Vic’s picks – Villa Mora ‘Montefalco Sagrantino’ 2006 in the Italy Feature; Kenwood ‘Jack London Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 in California: Red Wine; Tahbilk Estate Shiraz 2009 under Australia: Red Wine; Whitehaven ‘Greg’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012 after The Main Release under New in Vintages; Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Dean’s List’ Chardonnay 2010 after The Main Release under New in Ontario Wineries.
• 5-star wine – no wines managed to ring the 5-star bell this newsletter.

Over 70 wines tasted, spat and reviewed with most from the August 17, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the Italy Feature.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

August 17, 2013 Vintages Release

Italy Feature

Fazio Levantio Insolio 2011
DOC Erice, Sicily $16.95 (339119) 12.5% alcohol
Outside the square, this gem from Sicily fits inside most budgets and is worth every penny. A lovely nose of honeydew melon, floral notes and apricot heralds a streak of acidity interweaving with palate-bathing, lemon pie filling and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. This is deftly balanced with good weight and texture and a long, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Terredora ‘Loggio Della Serra’ Greco Di Tufo 2011
DOCG Greco Di Tufo, Campania $17.95 (983197) 13.0% alcohol
This is crisp, refreshing and brawny with great balance and oodles of flavour. It opens with aromas of leesy bits interlaced with orchard fruit, citrus and spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel coating the palate with almond/hazelnut, tropical fruit and apple flavours. It finishes lengthy, crisp and refreshing. Pour with rotisserie chicken or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)


Bastianich ‘Adriatico’ Friulano 2011
DOC Coli Orientali Del Friuli, Friuli $19.95 (277467) 13.0% alcohol
Spice box, nutty nuances and floral notes on the nose, it dishes up a gorgeous array of flavour with crisp green apple, ripe pear, grapefruit and racy lemon to the fore. Medium bodied with good texture and a crisp, clean aftertaste of ripe apple, white nectarine and racy lemon curd. Pour alongside pan-seared scallops and prawns. (Vic Harradine)


Talamonti ‘Tre Saggi’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008 

DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (204016) 13.5% alcohol 

This award-winner was hand harvested and aged 12 months in French oak. It offers an attractive value equation. Complexity on the nose recurs on the palate—ripe fruit, autumnal notes, vanilla, coffee bean and toast mingle to create interest and depth. The dark berry and cherry fruit is quite plush, the tannins soft, the acidity fresh, creating a dry, medium-full bodied wine with great balance and a touch of sweet vanilla on the lengthy aftertaste. Enjoy with herbed roast pork au jus. (Susan Desjardins)


Mezzacorona ‘Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva’ 2009
DOC Alto Adige/Trentino $15.95 (732222) 15.0% alcohol
Dishing up good value and oodles of charm, it opens with aromas of spice, tobacco and wisps of tar. Black, juicy cherry and ripe mulberry bathe the palate interlaced with excellent acidity and earthy notes. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lingering finish of fruit and lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)


Taurino ‘Riserva Salice Salentino Rosso’ 2009
DOP Salice Salentino Rosso, Puglia $14.95 (177527) 14.0% alcohol
There’s terrific value here with full-on aromas of balsamic, cedar and tarry notes. Layered and rich flavours of sour cherry, red currant and piquant spice mingle with sweeter, riper, bramble berry. Good weight and texture on the palate are joined by a long, dry finish of juicy, tangy dark berry fruit and good moderating acidity. Pours well with grilled, smoked back ribs or gourmet burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Villa Mora ‘Montefalco Sagrantino’ 2006
DOCG Umbria $19.95 (342394) 15.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, black licorice and earthy notes provide segue to a luscious wash of ripe mulberry and dark juicy Bing cherry interwoven with bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast. It’s medium-plus weight with good balance, silky smooth mouth feel and long finish replaying dark cherry and chocolate. Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Apollonio ‘Terragnolo Primitivo’ 2007
IGT Salento Rosso, Puglia $18.95 (211813) 15.0% alcohol
This is sweet, ripe and mellow throughout with no hard corners. Aromas and flavours of dark berry fruit jam and black cherry interweave with espresso roast, pipe tobacco and earthiness on the palate. Medium bodied and nicely textured this straightforward Primitivo finishes balanced and fruit-laden. (Vic Harradine)


Zonte’s Footstep ‘The Love Symbol’ Savignin Blanc 2010
Langhorne Creek, South Australia $16.95 (333237) 12.0% alcohol
A white varietal thought to be Albariño was later found to be Savignin, aka Savignin Blanc, a grape from Jura, France. Mixed spice, gooseberry and sprigs of herbs on the nose, this delivers a mid-weight spray of lemony tang and orchard fruit on the palate persisting through the zippy, refreshing finish. Sip on its own or with lighter-styled seafood appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir 2011
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $19.95 (327429) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a sure-fire crowd pleaser with oodles of sweet, ripe fruit and a mouth-watering aftertaste. It opens with a slight-pink hue and plenty of sweet, ripe red fruit aromas mingling with spice on the lively nose. There’s plenty of mousse and a boatload of flavour—raspberry, currant and strawberry. There’s certainly enough acidity on the finish so that it cleans up crisp and refreshing. It’s a lovely sparkler with which to greet guests and has the oomph to pair with hors d’oeuvres. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Coffin Ridge ‘Bone Dry’ Riesling 2012
VQA Ontario $17.00 (232744) 11.2% alcohol
Aromas of grapefruit and mineral/slate presage an off-dry gusher of glorious flavour—key lime, lemon yoghurt and crisp, green apple interlaced with grilled pineapple. There’s a silky-smooth and sweet and tang experience that’ll send you in search of spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai, tandoori chicken or moo shu pork. (Vic Harradine)


Daniel Lenko ‘Old Vines’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (352328) 14.0% alcohol
Toasted oak, caramel and pit fruit on the nose, this unleashes a delightful river of sweet vanilla, wisps of coconut, mixed spice, orchard fruit and notions of toasty oak. It’s balanced and lively, medium weight with good mouth feel and plenty of oomph on the palate. It finishes in a blaze of crisp, refreshing tang. Good to go now, even better over the next three or four years. (Vic Harradine)


Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
This is light and lively with good balance, plenty of fruit and a tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Granny Smith apple and minerality mingle with aromas of pit fruit on the nose. Refreshing apple, pear and peach bathe the palate interlaced with zesty citrus tang. Lovely quaffed on its own, it has the structure and depth to pour well with beer-can chicken, pan-seared or grilled sea food or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)


Palatine Hills Estate ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $18.00 (352344) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate grassy, herbaceous notes on the nose herald an off-dry wash of key lime pie, lemon flan and hints of moderating acidity. This is fully textured, creamy smooth, with mid weight with a finish displaying ripe, sweet pit fruit with just enough brushstrokes of citrus acidity for interest. Serve well chilled, on its own or alongside spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Pillitteri Estates Viognier 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (330894) 12.5% alcohol
Floral, exotic spice and apricot aromas flow freely from this light-medium bodied Viognier. It flows across the palate with a wave of lemon curd, crisp apple and blood orange wreathed in floral and honeyed notes. The mid-length finish replays the palate flavours, balanced and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree Red’ 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol 

This fresh, juicy blend—primarily Shiraz with Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot—sports a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, rich cherry and roasted herbs. It rolls over the palate in endless, delicious waves with black plum and currant interlaced with boysenberry and spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced, fruit-laden finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2011

VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (172643) 12.5% alcohol

Charming salmon pink, this perennial favourite is produced from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. An appealing fresh, floral note and cherry/berry aromas rush from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, deftly balanced, it’s clean, fruity and lively on the palate, the red fruit and juicy texture offering a delightfully tasty, crisp and flavourful finish. Sip away. (Susan Desjardins)

California White Wine

J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay 2011
Arroyo Seco, Monterey County $26.95 (225375) 14.9% alcohol
This is rich and complex with good balance and a lengthy, luscious finish. An alluring nose of exotic spice and orchard fruit presages a full-flavoured, fully textured wash of mango and grilled pineapple interweaving with spice box. There’s pretty good weight on this and very generous mouth feel while the aftertaste is long with good flavour and acidity. (Vic Harradine)


Truchard Chardonnay 2011
Carneros, Napa Valley $34.95 (060459) 13.9% alcohol
There’s good sense of purpose here with a great streak of juicy, tangy acidity persisting throughout. Aromas of apple, pear and lemon citrus provide segue for a racy flow of blood orange, lemon pie filling and pineapple on the palate. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking lemon and crisp Granny Smith apple. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Zinfandel 2011
Contra Costa County, Central Coast $19.95 (719211) 15.0% alcohol
Rich, luscious aromas and flavours abound; it’s balanced, complex and simply delicious. Aromas of dark, bramble berry compote, sweet, rich mulberry and baking spice set the stage for palate-coating flavours—black berry jam, kirsch liqueur and wisps of cassis. It’s amazingly well-balanced with good tang and acidity, medium-full bodied with silky smooth texture and a rich finish that’s not overpowering. Pour with grilled, back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Clos du Bois Pinot Noir 2011
California $18.95 (161273) 13.5% alcohol
Beetroot, forest floor and roasted herb aromas on the alluring nose introduce a river of ripe berry fruit, red currant and hints of tannin. This is medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste layering on some gamy, earthy nuances. Good to go now with slow-roast pork or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)


First Press Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $21.95 (188110) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of toasty oak, mixed spice and red cherry/berry abound. It splashes over the palate with red currant tang and sour cherry then broadens out on the mid palate and finish with bramble berry and cassis; balanced and complex. Mid-full weight with good texture the aftertaste sports mixed spice and ripe, black fruit interweaving with good acidity and fine-grained tannin. Pour now with grilled, seasoned strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

Napa Valley and Sonoma County $19.95 (135376) 13.9% alcohol 

Exotic spice, black licorice and cassis aromas presage a medium-plus bodied, spirited wash of tangy, black currant and ripe, juicy Bing cherry garnished with toasty bits and wisps of tannin. This sports a satin-smooth texture and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste. Good to go now with grilled red meat, gourmet sausage or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Kenwood ‘Jack London Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Sonoma Mountain $39.95 (944843) 14.5% alcohol
The distinctive wolf face on the label marks the 35th vintage for this sought-after Cab—Author, Jack London, planted vines in the early 1900s where the vines for this wine were replanted in 1972. This is tangy and rich with a gusher of full-flavoured, fully textured flavour. Boysenberry, sweet ripe mulberry and cassis coat the palate, infuse the lingering aftertaste. It’s balanced with good acidity and underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State

Columbia Crest ‘H3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Horse Heaven Hills $19.95 (210047) 14.5% alcohol
Spice, espresso roast and sprigs of herbs on the nose, it dishes up a gorgeous gusher of bramble berry and dark chocolate, balanced and beautiful. It’s full bodied, fully textured, complex and structured. It finishes fruit forward with good acidity and loads of black juicy fruit. How good is that? Pour alongside the grilled red meat you pull off your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Agostino Inicio Malbec 2011
Mendoza $14.95 (330670) 13.5% alcohol
Rosewood, cooked plum and baking spice aromas introduce rich, tangy waves of red cherry and black currant interweaving with dark coffee and truffle bathing the palate, infusing the balanced finish. This is medium weight with decent mouth feel and an aftertaste layering on notions juicy acidity and wisps of still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours. (Vic Harradine)


Cicchitti ‘Edicion Limitada’ Malbec 2008

Mendoza $24.95 (260893) 14.0% alcohol

Dense-purple in hue, the wine beckons with its aromas of ripe fruit, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the smooth round texture captivates, introducing a mouthful of fruity ripe spiced berries, notes of pepper with toast adding complexity. Approachable and well structured, this is a finely balanced wine that offers toasty warmth on the finish. Enjoy now with grilled meat and veggies or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Dieter Meier ‘Puro’ Corte 2010 

Agrelo Alto, Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (305094) 14.5% alcohol 

Produced from a blend of organically grown Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the aromas of this deftly crafted wine leap from the glass—rich dark fruit, floral notes, smoke, toast and spiced vanilla. Dry, mid-full weight, smooth and freshly textured, plush fruit mingles with the sweet spice of well-integrated oak. Finishing dry and lengthy, the wine is, substantial, structured and well balanced. Serve with grilled meats or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Fabre Montmayou ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2010
Mendoza $19.95 (279802) 15.0% alcohol
Dark toasted oak, roasted herbs, black plum and dark cherry aromas precede rich, complex, palate-bathing flavour—briary berry, mint-laden cherry and dark chocolate. This is balanced and beautiful with structure and texture. It finishes lengthy with good fruit and acidity underpinned by ripe, fine-grained tannin. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Joffré E. Hijas ‘Grand’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Uco Valley, Mendoza $18.95 (243212) 14.5% alcohol 

Earthy/underbrush and spice-driven dark berry fruit aromas intro this mid-weight, extremely well-balanced Cab. It’s tangy and racy on entry and mid palate with red currant and sour cherry broadening out on the spice-laden aftertaste with cassis and ripe dark berry fruit. Ratchets up a notch or two poured with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Sottano ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $24.95 (324707) 14.8% alcohol
Espresso roast, dark plum jam and sandalwood aromas blossom from this nicely built Cab. Racy, juicy flavours of sour cherry and black currant mingle with spice and earthy tones on the medium weight, nicely textured palate. The lingering, luscious aftertaste adds lashings of dark berry fruit and hints of truffle. Pop the cork now with a juicy, grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

De Martino ‘Legado Reserva’ Carmenére 2010 

DO Maipo Valley $15.95 (236059) 13.5% alcohol 

Aromas of toasty oak and dark coffee spill from the nose of this rich and concentrated red. Black raspberry, cassis and ripe mulberry spill over the palate streaked with sprigs of fresh, savory herbs. It’s medium bodied with good texture and complexity plus a lengthy finish. The drying aftertaste is laced with dark berry fruit and roasted herbs. This pours well with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Emilian ‘Winemaker’s Selection’ Syrah 2011
Casablanca Valley $19.95 (212407) 15.0% alcohol
The lifted and lively aromas of piquant spice, mint-infused cherry and balsamic abound. Dark and intense flavours coat the palate with juicy bramble berry and dark cherry interlaced with toasty oak and espresso roast to the fore. It shows good body and texture and a lengthy, dry finish with good fruit and acidity underpinned by a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours. (Vic Harradine)


Tabalí ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

DO Maipo Valley, Chile $ 14.95 (58446) 14.0% alcohol 

Inky purple, the grapes were hand picked, the wine aged 10 months in French oak. Herbal, earthy notes waft from the glass intermingling with aromas of rich, dark fruit and hints of cedar and vanilla. Dry, full bodied, quite round yet firm, the dark fruit is rich and concentrated, notes of toasty oak, dark chocolate and pepper adding interest and complexity. The flavours bathe the palate and linger on the finish garnished with a tangy note of coffee bean. Serve with grilled meats and root vegetables. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Paxton ‘MV’ Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (327403) 14.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, exotic spice and cedar aromas provide entry to a balanced, palate-bathing, river of rich, luscious black currant, black plum and dark, bittersweet chocolate. It’s full bodied, fully textured, complex and elegant. The lengthy aftertaste replays the palate flavours with great tang for balance and fine-grained tannin for structure—a biodynamic beauty. (Vic Harradine)


Tahbilk Estate Shiraz 2009
Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria $22.95 (214742) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, dark berry fruit, peppery/savory herbs and juicy, black cherry aromas presage a flood of medium-full bodied, silky smooth flavour—spice cake, ripe mulberry and meaty notes. This is stylish and complex with a lengthy aftertaste layering on loads of fruit, moderating acidity and a gentle brush of supple tannin. It’s very good value from one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’. (Vic Harradine)


Tournon ‘Mathilda Victorian’ Shiraz 2010
Victoria $19.95 (336966) 13.5% alcohol
Michel Chapoutier of Rhône Valley fame brings his world-renowned skill and trademark Braille-embossed label to Australia. This jumps from the glass with savory spice, forest floor and dark berry fruit. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and lengthy complex finish of red and black berry fruit mingling with gamy notes and good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (141499) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a lively, lifted, take-no-prisoners SB from the small-ish, Awatere Valley. It dazzles the senses with piercing aromas of gooseberry and passion fruit, before unleashing a laser-like stream of racy, herbaceous flavour with tangy citrus and gooseberry dominant. It’s mid weight with decent texture appealing to those who like their wines racy and zesty—not for the faint of heart, this. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Ernie Els ‘Big Easy’ 2011
South Africa $19.95 (220038) 14.5% alcohol
South African pro golfer Ernie Els is renowned for his effortless golf swing, hence the moniker, The Big Easy. Charred wood smoke and tobacco on the nose, this dishes up a tangy, fruit-forward wash of red cherry and dark berry fruit infused with charry flavour. Mid weight with good mouth feel, this has those dark, smoky flavours throughout the tangy finish. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Andre Blanck et Ses Fils ‘Rosenbourg’ Pinot Blanc 2011
AOC Alsace $14.95 (626606) 12.5% alcohol
A go-to source for quality-priced wine, Blanck doesn’t disappoint here with a light and lively Pinot Blanc. Exotic spice, floral notes and orchard fruit aromas provide segue for a tangy river of lemon curd, minerality and white nectarine with good sense of purpose and a lip-smacking, tangy aftertaste. Great to sip on its own or pair with chicken kebabs. (Vic Harradine)


Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2010
AOC Chablis $19.95 (041780) 12.7% alcohol
Slate/earthy aromas with hints of citrus and orchard fruit presage a racy, clean and crisp line of crisp Granny Smith apple, lemon-lime tang and peach flavour. This is nervy and refreshing with mid weight, nice texture and a lip-smacking finish. Freshly shucked malpeques under a squeeze of fresh lemon would wash down beautifully with this. (Vic Harradine) 


Domaine Chaveau ‘La Charmette’ Pouilly Fumé 2011
AOC Pouilly Fumé $19.95 (274357) 12.0% alcohol
This is lifted and lively on the nose with a streak of nerve and verve throughout. Aromas of lemongrass and sprigs of green herbs foreshadow a laser-like stream of zippy, refreshing flavour—lemon curd, gooseberry and notions of passion fruit. Medium weight and texture, the aftertaste is crisp, refreshing, lip smacking. Pour with mixed greens and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de la Gitonnière Touraine 2011
AOC Touraine $13.95 (168914) 12.5% alcohol
Sleek and racy throughout, it offers good value and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Aromas of piquant spice and grassy herbaceous notes open up a tightly scripted line of green apple, minerality and racy, lemon-lime tang. It’s light on its feet and quite good value. Give it a go with beet root and chèvre salad. (Vic Harradine)


Perrin & Fils ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (499509) 13.0% alcohol
Bold, aromatic and alluring on the nose, it dishes up floral notes, sweet vanilla and exotic spice aromas. Persistent waves of lemon zest and blood orange interwoven with tropical fruit bathe the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Medium bodied with good texture, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Laroche Joubert 2010
AOC Côtes de Bourg $16.95 (340307) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and complex with good depth of flavour. Aromas of toast, dark berry fruit and red cherry precede a mid-full bodied, well-textured display of palate-bathing flavour—kirsch liqueur, black currant mingling with dark toast, vanilla and espresso roast persisting through the long finish. Good to go now and poured well with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de Houdières Fleurie 2011
AOC Fleurie $16.95 (342725) 13.0% alcohol
Fleurie is one of the ten premium sub-appellations of Beaujolais and noted for floral aromas and easy-to-drink wine. Aromas of exotic spice and freshly crushed grapes herald a smooth and mellow flow of red cherry interlaced with juicy black plum and gamy notes. This is light-on-its-feet with fleshy texture and a lovely fruity finish with just enough acidity for interest and balance. There’s very good value in this well-bred red. (Vic Harradine)


Château Fortia ‘Cuvée du Baron’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $38.95 (959999) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and complex with oodles of charm, this opens with aromas of black currant and dark cherry interweaving with spice and roasted herbs. Rich and complex flavours abound with cassis, black plum, juicy black Bing cherry and dark coffee to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced and beautiful aftertaste. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Clos de Sixte’ Lirac 2010
AOC Lirac $23.95 (076349) 15.0% alcohol
A rich nose of pipe tobacco, espresso roast and baking spice provide entrée to a medium-plus bodied, well-textured wash of dried currant, cola and briary berry mingling with baking spice and notions of roasted herbs. Medium-plus weight with good balance, decent mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering finish, there’s plenty of grip in the still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours or pour 2015 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Marie Blanche Côtes du Rhône-Villages Signargues 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Signargues $16.95 (328179) 14.5% alcohol
This crowd-pleasing, value-packed, GSM—40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre—opens with lifted aromas of red licorice, earthiness, red and black berry fruit. Kirsch liqueur, blueberry and black raspberry coat the palate interwoven with aromatic bitters and tobacco. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a balanced finish laced with ripe fruit, good acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours and pour with seasoned, grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)


Mas de Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2011
AOC Cotières de Nîmes $14.95 (143099) 14.0% alcohol
Good value and in a ready-to-drink-now style, aromas of espresso roast and cherry cordial mingle with local herbs on the nose. There’s a boatload of ripe, sweet fruit flavour with cherry, currant and briary berry to the fore. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a lengthy finish layering on more sweet flavour—kirsch liqueur and cherry cordial. Pour with a mound of grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Domaine Lafond Roc-Épine Tavel Rosé 2012
AOC Tavel $17.95 (950709) 14.0% alcohol
Red currant, floral and red cherry aromas open this beauty from the appellation, Tavel, that only makes Rosé. It shows good structure and is bone dry with well-defined, balanced flavours showcasing depth and charm—red currant, strawberry, red cherry and mineral/slate notes. It’s nicely built with good weight, full texture and a long, lip-smacking, refreshing, finish. Pour with white pizza or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)


Perrin ‘Réserve’ Rosé 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (719062) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a lifted and lively nose that replays in the flavour profile—red currant, watermelon, strawberry and a sprigs of local herbs. It’s nicely structured with some depth and complexity on the palate and a lengthy, dry, fruity, lip-smacking aftertaste. Good value from a trusted producer; how good is that. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Cantine Riondo Appassimento 2010
IGT Ross Veneto $13.95 (326595) 13.5% alcohol
This is complex and layered dishing up mouthfuls of flavour and a cartload of charm. Toast and dark cherry/berry aromas interweave with espresso roast and hints of fennel. It bathes the palate with a balanced, dense flow of black plum compote and black currant garnished with roasted herbs. Mid weight and very nicely textured, the finish layers on red berry fruit on the dry, lingering aftertaste. Good to go now with grilled steak or meat-lover’s pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Burro Velho Aragonés/Syrah 2010
Vinho Regional Tejo $14.95 (342774) 14.0% alcohol
This interesting red blend opens with lifted and lively aromas of exotic spice, black plum and cherry. A rich, complex gusher of ripe fig, dark juicy cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry coat the palate with medium-full weight and good mouth feel. It finishes with good acidity, loads of fruit—mulberry and bramble berry—adorned with spice and wisps of still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving—terrific value here. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Beronia ‘Reserva’ 2008 

DOCa Rioja $18.95 (050203) 14.0% alcohol 

Hi-toned aromas of piquant spice, lively, red berry fruit and mixed spice dominate the nose. Fresh and spirited sour cherry and dark briary berry interlace with sprigs of herb, dark chocolate and espresso roast on the fully textured river of balanced flavour bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied, nicely structured and well defined with a complex and lip-smacking aftertaste. Good to go now with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)


Coto De Imaz ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001 

DOCa Rioja $29.95 (976811) 13.0% alcohol 

Aromas of mixed spice, floral notes and dried currant herald a tangy, racy river of red currant, sour cherry and spice-laden, black plum interwoven with savoury herbs and mocha on the palate and aftertaste. A mature Rioja with charm and finesse that’s best consumed over the next two or three years. (Vic Harradine)


Finca Nueva [Crianza’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (292763) 13.5% alcohol
Peppery spice and red cherry/berry aromas provide segue to a mid-full weight, nicely textured, tangy river of red cherry, red currant and juicy black plum. The mid-length finish is ablaze with racy sour cherry and lip-smacking tang. Pour alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)


Torres ‘Celeste Crianza’ 2010
DO Ribera del Duero $22.95 (210872) 14.0% alcohol
Richly aromatic on the nose, it dishes up dark berry fruit, floral notes, hints of leather and mixed spice. It’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel. Racy red cherry and currant mingle with spice and notions of riper mulberry on the palate while replaying on the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Good to go now with spaghetti Bolognese or paella. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

San Raffaele ‘Mont Tabor’ Pinot Grigio 2012
IGT Veronese, Italy $14.95 (204768) 12.5% alcohol
Floral, flinty notes, tropical fruit and yellow peach aromas abound. A mid-weight, nicely textured stream of pineapple, lemon zest and Golden Delicious apple bathe the palate, infusing the medium-length finish. It’s good value with a good grapefruit bite on the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)


Whitehaven ‘Greg’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, New Zealand $24.95 (325944) 13.0% alcohol
Named for Whitehaven’s late owner, Greg White, this dishes up a no-holds-barred, delectable mouthful of lively, lifted passion fruit, lemon yoghurt and streaks of bell pepper. The aromas of gooseberry and minerality replay on the aftertaste garnished with grilled grapefruit and herbaceous notes. It’s mid weight with good texture, structure, balance and great sense of purpose. Pick some up. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $19.05 (267260) 13.5% alcohol
This delivers a well-priced mouthful of delicious red wine. Heady aromas of cherry, toasty notes and cedar on the nose, it bathes the palate with a well-defined wash of tangy red cherry and blueberry interlaced with espresso roast and wisps of dark chocolate. It’s mid weight with a silky-smooth mouth feel and a lengthy, fruit-forward, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)


Whitehaven Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough, New Zealand $23.45 (245696) 14.0% alcohol
Sweet vanilla, ripe, dark berry fruit and toasty oak on the nose, it bathes the palate with a silky smooth flow of dark cherry and ripe mulberry interlaced with roasted herbs and notions of dark toast. Mid weight with balance and sense of purpose, this streams through the deftly balanced finish replaying flavours underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, New Zealand $18.95 (308288) 13.0% alcohol
Gooseberry, gun flint, piquant herbs and spice hustle from the glass of this bursting-with-flavour gem. There’s good weight and mouth feel accompanied by lively, flavours of key lime, passion fruit and oodles of tangy lemon. It dishes up a zingy, full-on finish that’s crisp, refreshing and looking for mesclun salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Palatine Hills Estate ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.95 13.5% alcohol
There are deep, rich aromas of balsamic, piquant spice and dark berry fruit galore. Tangy flavours of red and black currant wreathed in spice and notions of cassis bathe the palate in mid-weight, nicely textured waves. It finishes in a blaze with red cherry and dried currant interweaving with roasted herbs. Well paced, well priced and simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)


Palatine Hills Estate ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Meritage 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $29.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of cherry, mint, earthiness and cedar abound. A structured, balanced and tangy wash of red cherry and lively currant bathes the palate wreathed in good moderating acidity and piquant spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel persisting through the finish with a mellow, lip-smacking aftertaste layering on wisps of black plum and red currant galore. Good to go now with a mound of slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Niagara College Teaching Winery -The following six wines are from a truly unique institution—one that’s spawned many, possibly most, of the winemakers now practising throughout Ontario’s VQA wine regions. Nestled in the premium VQA sub-appellation of St. David’s Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, they manage their wine and 40 acres of prime vineyards with fledgling winemakers under the tutelage of highly respected winemaker, Terence Van Rooyen, producing VQA, quality-approved wine. If down that way, Niagara College also boasts a student-run brewery and top-notch Benchmark Restaurant, the latter open for lunch and dinner. Winecurrent tasted the following with the Ottawa agent and Niagara winery manager at the popular Mekong Restaurant—renowned for their Asian cuisine, well-chosen wine list and good value—637 Somerset West near Bronson.

Order the following six wines by the case for daily home or office delivery, and/or participate in their Wine Club, by contacting Niagara College Teaching Winery.


Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Dean’s List’ Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $28.15 13.5% alcohol
It would be hard not to like this, it’s balanced, fruit-forward with complexity, structure and charm—it was difficult to spit. This is richly hued and brimming with aromas of black currant, baking spice and pipe tobacco. Medium-plus bodied with gorgeous mouth feel, palate-bathing flavours of dark berry fruit and black cherry interlace with wisps of roasted herbs. The finish is balanced with good acidity, oodles of ripe fruit and underpinned with ripe, fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench $15.15 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of ripe pit fruit, Golden Delicious apple and citrus introduces a balanced, persistent river of luscious, grilled grapefruit, ripe pear and lemon curd on the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. It’s medium weight with a lovely, fleshy mouth feel and a boatload of charm. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Pour with roast chicken, pork or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)


Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Dean’s List’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $28.15 13.0% alcohol
Caramel toffee, exotic spice, green apple and vanilla aromas announce full-flavoured, fully textured waves of rich, delectable flavour with butterscotch, pit fruit and wisps of well-integrated oak and crisp citrus to the fore. It’s mid-full weight, good value, structured with complexity sporting a lingering, luscious finish, with each sip better than the previous. This flirted with 5 stars and deserves a spot at the table. (Vic Harradine)


Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Dean’s List’ Pinot Noir 2009
VQA St. David’s Bench $25.15 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of beet root, spice and mixed field berry fruit precede a nicely balanced wash of cranberry, red currant and red cherry accompanied by sweeter, riper strawberry and raspberry. This is light-medium bodied with good texture and mid-length finish that’s nicely balanced with fruit and acid underpinned by still-resolving wisps of tannin. It pairs well with smoked duck or cubed beet root and chèvre salad. (Vic Harradine)


Niagara College Teaching Winery ‘Dry’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.15 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a drink-me-now treat with good texture, terrific balance and an interesting tangy flavour profile at a very good price. A bouquet of petrol, key lime and wisps of mineral/flint provide segue to a balanced and silky smooth wash of palate-bathing flavour—tangy lime and white grapefruit mingling with notions of peach and crisp, green apple. It’s medium weight with a lovely mouth feel and refreshing mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Niagara College Teaching Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $13.15 12.0% alcohol
Lively, lifted aromas of citrus and gooseberry herald a surge of fully textured, luscious flavour with white peach, lemongrass and notions of green herbs. Light-medium bodied with a very generous mouth feel, it finishes in a blaze of balanced and beautiful zesty tang—what’s not to like. Pour with pan-seared trout under a squeeze of fresh lemon with a side of steamed, baby bok choy. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan