Winecurrent

July 29, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • LCBO & Vintages - Bin End Sale – up to 450 wines offered at discounts up to 25%. Must pick up from store purchased - no transfers between stores. Click here...
  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value! – only four of the +60 wines reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines. One in the Main Release, three following, all in $13 range.
  • Susan Selects - Calamus ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay’ 2011 @ $14.95 under Ontario: White Wine and Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 @ $21.95 under California: Red Wine
  • Vic’s picks – MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris 2011 @ $19.95 under California: White Wine; Ken Forrester ‘Reserve’ Chenin Blanc 2011 @ $17.95 under South Africa: White Wine; Barone Ricasoli ‘Rocca Guicciarda’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2009 @ 24.95 under Italy: Red Wine
  • 5-star wine – no wines managed to ring the 5-star bell this newsletter.

Civic Holiday, Monday, August 5, 2013

Some (350) LCBO stores will be open on the Civic Holiday, Monday, August 5, 2013. These stores will post those opening hours in advance. All LCBO stores will observe regular hours on Saturday, August 3 and Sunday, August 4. Call 1-800-ONT-LCBO for further information.

Over 60 wines tasted, spat and reviewed including many from the August 3, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the French White Wine Feature.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

August 3, 2013 Vintages Release

French White Wine Feature

***1/2 drink now
Michel Delhommeau ‘Cuvée Harmonie sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine sur Lie 2011
AOC Sèvre-et-Maine $13.95 (164624) 12.0% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this brims with Granny Smith apple and lime cordial along with leesy notes on the nose and the palate. Medium-bodied with reasonable texture it spills into the finish with lemon curd and notions of slate/minerality. This is a summer quaffer also pairing well with pan-seared scallops under a squish of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Chevallier Chablis 2010
AOC Chablis $19.95 (112227) 12.5% alcohol
A filigree of delicate aromas—apple, pear and minerality—provide segue for a bracing line of lemon-line acidity bolstered by hints of peach and yellow plum on the palate, infusing the dry, mouth- watering, refreshing aftertaste. It’s a lighter-styled Chablis with good mouth feel that pours well with freshly shucked, briny oysters. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine des Fines Caillottes Pouilly-Fumé 2011
AOC Pouilly-Fumé $22.95 (695908) 12.5% alcohol
Herbaceous and citrus aromas interweave with smoky notes on the nose of this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It delivers a well-defined wash of crisp green apple and racy lemon zest streaking across the palate in light-medium bodied waves with very good mouth feel and plenty of brio. It’s racy, crisp and mouth-watering throughout including the zingy finish. Ratchets up a notch with smoked salmon and chèvre on a bagel. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château Moncontour ‘Tête de Cuvée Brut’ Vouvray
AOC Vouvray $16.95 (207936) 12.0% alcohol
This bubbly opens with a lovely nose of citrus, leesy notes and honeyed, pit fruit aromas. A profusion of bubbles carry nutty nuances and yeasty bits interlacing with racy lemon zest and juicy white nectarine. It’s medium weight with a creamy smooth texture and crisp, refreshing, lip-smackingly-good aftertaste. This is very good value and worth picking up a few to keep chilled for when friends unexpectedly drop by. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Heidsieck & Co. ‘Monopole Blue Top’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $49.95 (068288) 12.0% alcohol
This raises the bar at the register, but more than keeps up in the price-quality equation; as Champagne goes, it’s good value. Alluring aromas of sandalwood, smoke and baking brioche introduce a racy, lively explosion of bubbles with lemon-lime, green apple to the fore along with wisps of red licorice. There’s good mouth feel and good weight—70% Pinot Noir in the blend—allowing it to be easily paired with main dishes. It’s crisp and zingy throughout with a mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Syrah Mini-Feature

**** drink or cellar
Brunel de la Gardine Crozes-Hermitage 2010
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $22.95 (339861) 12.5% alcohol
This opens with an involved nose of black pepper, mint, truffles and roasted herbs. A mid-weight, nicely textured stream of red and black berry fruit and dark juicy cherry is bolstered by good moderating acidity and a soft tannin underpinning. The finish is dry, fruity and nicely balanced. It pours well with grilled rib-eye steak with roasted veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Delheim Shiraz 2010
WO Simonsberg, Stellenbosch $17.95 (959080) 14.5% alcohol
This ward is on the slopes of Simonsberg Mountain. Ripe, prune plum and spice aromas on the nose mingle with hints of toast—aged 13 months in primarily French oak. There’s a solid line of black plum and currant blossoming on the mid and back palate into a shower of dark, juicy Bing cherry. All balanced and beautiful, it’s medium-full bodied with smooth creamy texture and a delightful, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pick up a few for the barbecue, this season and next. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Calamus ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay’ 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (210062) 12.6% alcohol 

Lifted floral notes escape from the glass, mingling with aromas of sweet orchard fruit and citrus. A touch off-dry, this wine is creamy, fruity and nicely balanced offering a hint of lees. Pear, peach and citrus flavours linger on the tasty, slightly pithy finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2012

VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 (131235) 13.0% alcohol  

Fresh, lively and crisp from the get-go, aromas of lemon chiffon pie and lime yoghurt herald a racy, tangy wash of lime cordial and white grapefruit. It’s mid weight with excellent mouth feel—left on its lees 2 months in seasoned French oak—sporting a crisp, refreshing, zesty aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche or pan-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Megalomaniac ‘Bigmouth’ Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (067645) 14.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, baking spice and charred notes billow from this medium-bodied, well-textured Merlot. Oodles of dark, juicy cherry interweave with wisps of black plum, spice and tarry bits on the palate, persisting through the dry, nicely balanced, lengthy aftertaste. Pour alongside a slab smoked, grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2009

VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $31.95 (130997) 13.0% alcohol

Look for subdued whiffs of sweet vanilla, floral, spice and red berry fruit on the nose. It sports silky-smooth texture, firm tannin and lively acidity. The palate’s treated to well-integrated flavours of toasty oak, spice box, ripe black cherry, dark plum and mixed berry fruit. There’s a peppery flair on the warm, flavour-filled, tangy finish. Beautifully balanced, this is a well-structured, well-made red. Serve now with robust meat dishes or pull the cork 2014. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kacaba ‘Rebecca Rosé’ 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (227025) 13.0% alcohol 

Ripe and robust aromas of strawberry, cherry and notions of red berry jam abound. A wash of sweet cherry/berry flavour garnished with piquant spice and hints of ruby red grapefruit bathe the palate persisting through the tantalizingly sweet, lingering finish. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink now
Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Napa Valley $39.95 (707224) 14.1% alcohol
Green herbs and floral aromas presage a fully flavoured, palate-bathing river of lemon curd, blood orange and grilled white grapefruit. It’s has good weight and balance with a long, crisp and refreshing, mouth-watering aftertaste. Lovely poured on its own and paired well with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Irony Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $19.95 (027409) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of sweet vanilla, baking spice and hazelnut herald a rich and lovely wash of defined, complex flavours and texture—sweet pit fruit, tropical fruit and lemony tang mingle with wisps of caramel and mixed spice. It’s mid-full weight with a satin smooth mouth feel and lingering finish that’s fruity, nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $19.95 (047787) 14.2% alcohol
This is peach-blush hued, well paced, well priced and well…delicious. Notions of caramel, honeysuckle and apple crumble aromas herald a full-flavoured, fully textured wash of spice-laden, crisp green apple and a lime-drizzled salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s mid weight with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a lingering, balanced and beautiful aftertaste. Pour on its own or alongside roast chicken or pulled pork. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Macrostie ‘Wildcat Mountain Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2009
Sonoma Coast $45.95 (059733) 14.1% alcohol
This is stylish, deftly balanced with good structure and charm. Aromas of toasty notes, mango and melon interweave with spice and orchard fruit on the nose. It’s rich and regal on the palate with nectarine, apple and pear mingling with wisps of well-integrated oak. The finish lingers, crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking good. If you cast bait in pricey waters, this won’t disappoint.

****1/2 drink now
White Oak Chardonnay 2010
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $27.95 (945816) 14.3% alcohol
This is well worth a punt; it’s rich, luscious, balanced, brimming with flavour. Aromas of orange blossom and tropical fruit presage a medium-full bodied, mellow and smooth surge of sweet vanilla, melon, stone fruit and mixed spice. The lingering, luscious finish adds good moderating lemon acidity and a mouth-watering aftertaste. It offers very good value. (Vic Harradine

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Zinfandel 2011
Sonoma and San Joaquin Counties $19.95 (135384) 15.4% alcohol
This sports classic Zin aromas with loads of dark berry jam and baking spice. On the palate, a gusher of black Bing cherry and bramble berry jam garnished with bittersweet chocolate and wisps of sweet vanilla meld with excellent moderating acidity. It makes for a balanced and fruit-laden Zin that’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel and a spicy fruit-forward aftertaste; it’s also good value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Boisset Family Estates Collection - Raymond ‘Reserve Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $37.95 (715979) 14.5% alcohol
Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo, married 2009, are the world’s most powerful wine couple. This premium Napa Cab is attractive to those augmenting a cellar; it’s deftly balanced, has perfectly integrated oak and is good now to 2022. Red cherry, black currant, tobacco and spice on the nose, it ripples across the palate with cassis, spice-infused, black plum and vanilla. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lingering balanced aftertaste with fine-grained tannin adding structure. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Symmetry’ Meritage 2009
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $59.95 (641142) 15.0% alcohol
A stylish and scrumptious, chic red blend—79% Cab Sauv, 14% Malbec, 6% Merlot, 1% Cab Franc—offering aromas of sandalwood, black berry and baking spice. It’s balanced, rich and complex with mid-plus weight and gorgeous texture dishing up briary berry, kirsch liqueur and juicy black currant. The finish lingers, lip-smacking good. Good to go now and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

Napa Valley, California $21.95 (738170) and 375 mL $12.95 (191700) 13.5% alcohol 

Ruby in the glass, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Merlot and Zinfandel, this wine reels you in with tempting, complex aromas—dried herbs, red and black berries, vanilla and elusive smoky notes. Dry, full bodied, it’s well structured with refined tannins, clean acidity and luscious, spiced, dark fruit. Displaying fine balance and depth of flavour, it’s a wine for your favourite cut of beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Drouhin ‘Cloudline’ Pinot Noir 2009

Oregon $21.95 (159970) 13.5% alcohol

Candy-apple red and transparent with attractive aromas of fresh red berries, spice box and a light toasty note, this is a dry, fresh, crisp Pinot Noir. It’s silky in texture with good balance of lively acidity and red cherry and berry fruit, spice and white pepper. There’s a hint of warmth, toast and tart berry notes on the mid-length finish. A lovely food wine to match with braised chicken thighs with tomato and mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Columbia Valley $18.95 (275123) 14.1% alcohol
This medium-weight, nicely balanced Cab is rich in aromas and flavours. Aromas of black currant and black bramble berry interlace with spice and wisps of fennel on the nose. Palate-bathing flavours of dark berry fruit, dark toast, roasted herbs and piquant spice roll in medium-bodied, well-textured waves. It finishes tangy and structured with good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. Pour with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Don David ‘Finca la Maravilla #6’ Malbec 2011
Cafayate Valley $16.95 (322826) 14.0% alcohol
Cedar, smoke and espresso roast aromas billow from this medium-full bodied, satin-smooth Malbec. Oodles of red and black berry fruit interlace with fennel, baking spice and black tea on the complex palate, infusing the lingering finish. Good acidity and structure add to the enjoyment along with overall balance and plenty of charm. It offers good value and versatility grill-side; lamb, chicken and beef pair well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
La Posta ‘Estela Armando Vineyard’ Bonarda 2011
Mendoza $14.95 (261586) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas of spice, floral notes and rich, ripe berry fruit flow from the nose of this mellow and smooth, great-value red. Black briary berry and sour cherry balance off beautifully, rolling in medium-full bodied waves interweaving with mocha and black licorice on the palate. It has generous texture throughout coupled with a balanced, structured finish of good, tangy acidity and supple tannin underpinning. Good to go now. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Tempranillo 2009
Santa Rosa Vineyards, Mendoza $19.95 (973503) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of red cherry and cedar wreathed in spice and floral notes herald a mid-weight, über-tangy line of red currant, spice and sour cherry on the palate. This is medium weight with a mid-length finish of racy, red berry fruit and wisps of grainy tannin. Ratchets up a notch poured with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Montes ‘Alpha’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Colchagua Valley $19.95 (322586) 14.5% alcohol
This intros with a subtle nose of lilac, field berry fruit and spice aromas. Shifting into gear on the palate with a lovely array of rich, ripe fruit—bramble berry, juicy dark cherry and black currant—it’s bolstered by excellent balance, good weight and fleshy texture. This finishes in a lip-smacking blaze with more ripe fruit mingling with spice, good moderating acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Oveja Negra ‘Single Vineyard’ Carmenère 2011
Maule Valley $15.95 (302646) 13.5% alcohol
Rosewood, graphite and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue to a mid-full bodied, well-textured mouthful of juicy black currant, black Bing cherry and red currant mingling with spice and mocha. It’s medium-full weight with flavours replaying on the dry lengthy, mouth-watering finish. This is very good value, fronting up well to grilled and roasted meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 

DO Maipo Valley $17.95 (684597) 14.5% alcohol 

Showing a big masculine character, this dense wine delivers warm aromas of cedar, rich ripe flavours—cassis to the fore—and a dash of spice. Dry and full bodied with grippy tannin and fresh acidity framing well-ripened black fruit, smoky, toasty notes add complexity. The finish is long and tinged with a note of espresso. Offered in environmentally friendly, light-weight glass; this wine pairs well with barbequed meats or grilled Portobello mushrooms with balsamic dressing. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Turkey Flat ‘Butchers Block’ Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne 2011
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (058503) 13.0% alcohol
Floral, pit fruit, apple and pear aromas usher in this zingy, tangy blend. A persistent spray—full of nerve and verve—streaks across the palate with lemon curd, tangy grapefruit and wisps of pineapple to the fore. It’s mid weight with a crisp, refreshing, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche or freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The High Trellis’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (943456) 14.5% alcohol
Always at the top their game, d’Arenberg is one of 12 family-owned ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’ producing premium wine with a sense of place. Opaque in the glass, lively, lifted aromas abound with ripe black fruit—cherry, plum, currant—interweaving with mocha and earthy bits. Quite good weight and well textured, palate-coating flavours of sweet ripe mulberry and hints of spice and cassis mingle with tangy, racy red currant and sour cherry providing balance and tang galore. It finishes tangy and savory, crisp and dry. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Kim Crawford Dry Riesling 2010
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626408) 11.0% alcohol
Famous for Sauvignon Blanc, they’re no one-trick pony, evidenced by this racy gem. Ripe pear, green apple and herbaceous notes on the nose, it dishes up a streak of brio with lime yoghurt, lemon pie filling and crisp, Granny Smith apple predominant. It’s medium weight and broadens out on the mid and back palate with notions of ripe yellow plum and grilled pineapple. The refreshing, mouth-watering, aftertaste is drenched with lime-drizzled, tropical fruit. Pour with lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tablelands Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Martinborough, North Island $17.95 (336248) 13.0% alcohol
A vibrant nose of fresh herbs and spice mingles with peach and plum preceding a rich, robust river of tang with lemon, lime and slate/mineral to the fore. It’s nicely textured finishing lengthy, crisp and refreshing with notions of lemon chiffon pie and lime cordial on the aftertaste. This pours especially well with smoked salmon on a bagel spread with chèvre and cream cheese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Whitehaven ‘Greg’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (325944) 13.0% alcohol
This is from the dry, somewhat infertile soil in Awatere Valley, the smaller of two sub-regions in Marlborough. Grassy, nettles and herbaceous on the nose, it sprays over the palate with racy abandon providing a joyous tasting experience—passion fruit and gooseberry jelly wreathed in slate/flinty notes and racy citrus. It has sufficient weight and texture and a juicy, zesty aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ken Forrester ‘Reserve’ Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $17.95 (231282) 14.0% alcohol
From one of South Africa’s iconic producers, it’s a low-risk punt. Forrester resurrected historic, derelict vineyards where this was sourced from 35-year-old, low-trellis and bush vines then barrel and tank fermented and left on the lees. Honeysuckle, peach and exotic spice aromas herald a medium-weight, gorgeously textured, creamy smooth wash of vanilla, apricot and excellent citrus acidity. The racy, citrussy finish showcases balance, minerality and notions of caramel apple. Here’s a brief, fascinating read about Ken… Click here. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
The Grinder Pinotage 2011

WO Western Cape, South Africa $13.95 (269076) 14.0% alcohol

Toasty oak, espresso roast and field berry fruit on the nose, this coats the palate with a spirited wash of dark roast coffee, ripe, sweet mulberry and spice box. Unique, balanced and brimming with flavour it finishes dry and tasty in a blaze of red cherry and good, moderating acidity. It’s an affordable crowd pleaser. Pour with smoked, grilled ribs or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château d’Aurilhac 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc $23.85 (189035) 14.0% alcohol
Pencil shavings, camp fire smoke and cooked red fruit presage a smoky, toasty wash of cassis and bramble berry wreathed in dark coffee. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes, dry, balanced and with good tang from red currant, cherry and juicy black currant. Pull the cork now with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Château Féret-Lambert 2009
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $20.85 (191221) 14.5% alcohol
Stylish and flavour-packed, it’s very good value. Lifted aromas of black currant, ripe mulberry and baking spice pave the way for glorious, medium-full weight, nicely textured waves of cassis, briary berry and bittersweet chocolate. It finishes balanced, tangy and replaying flavours on the lingering aftertaste—good structure, versatile at the table and charming. This pours especially well with grilled beef or lamb. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink or cellar
Château la Bourrée 2009
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon $17.95 (138800) 14.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, red berry fruit and dusty/earthy notes on the nose portend a racy line of red currant and sour cherry coursing across the palate, infusing the dry, lip-smacking finish. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and a solid lick of grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Rochebin ‘Clos St. Germain Vielles Vignes’ Bourgogne 2011
AOC Bourgogne $18.95 (264549) 12.5% alcohol
An alluring nose of truffles, cedar, floral notes and whiffs of smoke is the forerunner of a tangy wash of red currant, cranberry and wisps of black currant on the palate. Decent weight and texture with a dry, mouth-watering finish mark this a great match served slightly chilled with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Tête Noire Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 (328203) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy and berry fruit interlace with dark toasty bits on the nose, prior to streaking across the palate with a bracing line of acidity—sour cherry, hints of pomegranate and red berry fruit—garnished with black currant and spice box. It’s medium in weight and texture and finishes with a lick of tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Xavier Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (244814) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and robust, balanced and beautiful, this GSM’s well paced and well priced. It’s opaque in the glass, highly scented and alluring on the nose with aromas of wild, local herbs - aka garrigue, espresso roast and dark berry fruit galore. Balanced and palate-coating black currant, sweet ripe mulberry and juicy, black Bing cherry interweave with gamy notes and black licorice persisting through the lingering, balanced aftertaste. This is medium-full weight with satin-smooth mouth feel and plenty of style and charm. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé

**** drink or cellar
La Cadierenne ‘Cuvée Grande Tradition’ Bandol Rosé 2012
AOC Bandol $18.95 (119453) 14.0% alcohol
You can’t tell a book by its cover nor a wine by its colour; a surge of weight, texture and flavour flow from this lightly hued, pink-tinged Rosé. It’s crisp, dry and refreshing with aromas and nicely structured flavours of red currant, strawberry and watermelon borne along by good weight and a rich, creamy mouth feel. Lovely sipped on its own and substantial enough to be served with seafood, white pizza or poultry. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barone Ricasoli ‘Rocca Guicciarda’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (943613) 13.5% alcohol
Rich and complex, it dishes up an alluring nose of red and black berry fruit, black plum and licorice. It’s fruity and flavourful, delivered in a classic, elegant style, no fruit bomb this. Tangy black and red currant interlace with aromatic bitters and menthol on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a lengthy, balanced, fruit-filled aftertaste. You’ll be hard pressed to find better at this price; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: White Wine

**** drink now
Morgadio Da Torre Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2012
DOC Vinho Verde, Monção e Melgaço $17.95 (960955) 12.5% alcohol
Envision yourself in Lisbon or the Algarve with hundreds of Portuguese in outdoor cafes, enjoying white Vinho Verde with all manner of seafood; now pick up a bottle, sip, and close your eyes. Floral, mineral and ripe, pit fruit aromas open the floodgates to a racy, refreshing, balanced river of peach, pear and lemon curd persisting through the lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lealtanza ‘Gran Reserva’ 2005
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (927913) 14.0% alcohol
This stunning bouquet of toast, cedar, sweet vanilla, leather and lilac transcends the norm. It’s balanced, complex and elegant with flavours of rich, dark, juicy fruit, earthy mushroom and dark bittersweet chocolate bathing the palate. With good weight and generous texture, it travels through the lengthy finish with good moderating acidity and no lack of charm. Seize a rare opportunity to taste a near decade-old wine with much style and aplomb. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 20, 2013

***1/2 drink now
Palatine Hills Estate ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $18.00 (352344) 13.5% alcohol
Delicate grassy, herbaceous notes on the nose herald an off-dry wash of key lime pie, lemon flan and hints of moderating acidity. This is fully textured, creamy smooth, with mid weight with a finish displaying ripe, sweet pit fruit with just enough brushstrokes of citrus acidity for interest. Serve well chilled, on its own or alongside spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 28, 2013

****1/2 drink now
MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay 2011
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (262063) 13.5% alcohol
Sandalwood, exotic spice and crème caramel on the nose, it washes in waves over the palate with flavour galore—baked apple, nutty nuances and sweet vanilla garnished with excellent, moderating, citrus acidity, structure and beautiful mouth feel. It’s mid-full weight with a lingering, delectable aftertaste. The price-quality balance tips well on your favour; it’s an inspired choice for large gatherings, serving alongside roast chicken, lobster or pork. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink now
Palatine Hills Estate ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $22.95 (319772) 13.5% alcohol
Certainly not your garden variety Chardonnay—hats off to winemaker, Jeff Innes. Sweet vanilla, sandalwood and nutty aromas presage a unique, interesting wash of peach/nectarine fruit framed by caramel, toffee and hazelnut. It’s balanced and brimming with flavour. Medium-full bodied and smooth as silk, it bathes the palate infusing the finish, gentle and stylish. The aftertaste layers on good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Cabernet Franc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95 (284570) 13.0% alcohol
This is balanced, complex and rich in flavour. Roasted herbs, dried, dark berry fruit and sandalwood presage textured, palate-bathing flavours of bittersweet chocolate, tangy sour cherry and black currant underpinned by still-resolving tannin and excellent moderating acidity. The aftertaste lingers with a solid core of fruit and promise of more—aerate/decant three hours or pull the first cork 2015. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages Essentials – always available in selected stores

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Louis Jadot Chardonnay Bourgogne 2011
AOC Bourgogne, France $17.95 (933077) - $2 off this price now to August 17, 2013
Ripe pear, red apple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas precede a nicely textured wash of crisp, green apple, white peach and lemon yoghurt. It’s medium weight with a delicious, mouth-watering finish. Very refreshing on its own, it has plenty of oomph to pair with steamed seafood—lobster or mussels, or roasted fowl—chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio 2012
DOC Valdadige, Italy $17.95 (106450) 12.5% alcohol
The LCBO touts this as their best-selling wine. A delicate nose of floral notes, lemon tart and wisps of mineral precede a mid weight, very nicely textured steak of lemon and lime garnished with notions of green apple. The mid-length finish is crisp, refreshing and lip-smacking good. Pair with steamed mussels and a sliced baguette. (Vic Harradine)

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Santa Margherita Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut Non-Vintage
DOCG Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore, Italy $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol
This never fails to impress, the nose offers floral notes, wisps of citrus and a streak of slate/mineral notes. Lots of bubbles on the pour and palate with a solid core of flavour along for the ride—lemon pie filling, blood orange and ripe grapefruit. There’s surprisingly good mouth feel and a balanced, crisp and refreshing finish. Works well as a welcoming wine or at the table with sea food. Rock-solid 4 stars and good value here. (Vic Harradine)

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Tawse ‘Sketches’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (89037) 12.0% alcohol
Lively and lifted on the nose, aromas of ripe yellow plum and nectarine interlace with wisps of citrus. A crisp, refreshing, generously textured river of baked apple, vanilla and tangy lemon curd bathe the palate. It’s medium bodied with complexity, richness and charm. The finish adds wisps of minerality and toast with each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

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DeLoach Vineyards ‘Heritage Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2011
California $15.45 (220434) 13.5% alcohol
Spice-laden aromas of red cherry, tobacco and dark toast precede a fully flavoured, beautifully textured wash of briary berry and spiced black plum. Well structured with poise and charm, it weds the concepts of new and old world with just the right amount of ripe fruit and precise amount of acidity for balance. The aftertaste lingers—fruity, tangy and delicious. Pour on its own or pair with spicy grilled wings, gourmet burger or roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Earth and Sky Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (343350) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of lime cordial and pit fruit introduce a light-medium-bodied line of citrus and crisp, green apple streaking across the plate with plenty of nerve and verve infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. Look for more citrus flavour on the dry aftertaste garnished with notions of binned apple. Great sipped on its own, best poured with sashimi, ceviche or salad topped with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

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Earth and Sky Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (343368) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke and dark toast interlace with red and dark berry fruit aromas on the alluring nose. It’s delicious and lively on the palate delivering a mid-weight wash of red currant, spice-infused black plum and hints of dark briary berry. It’s balanced, dry and lip-smacking good. The warm vintage provides plenty to like on the juicy, fruit-filled aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Château Montcontour ‘Jovly’ Cabernet Franc 2010
AOC Chinon, France $13.35 (300665) 13.0% alcohol
Medium bodied with good mouth feel, it’s mellow, smooth and a sure-fire, crowd pleaser. Good to go now with burgers, sausage or pizza. Rich, ripe, dark berry fruit and spice mingle with black plum compote aromas. A luscious warm, gusher of sweet, ripe mulberry and charred toast coat the palate infusing the balanced, mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Palatine Hills Estate ‘1812’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $12.20 (305383) 13.0% alcohol
Good value here. Tropical fruit, wild flowers and orchard fruit aromas provide entry to richly flavoured river of sweet, ripe pit fruit, ripe apple and sweet yellow plum. This is fleshy in the mouth and mid weight with a lengthy finish of ripe peach and wisps of lemon citrus on the aftertaste. Serve well chilled with roast chicken or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Palatine Hills Estate ‘1812’ Merlot-Cabernet 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $13.20 (260448) 13.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, dark berry fruit and black plum aromas presage a juicy gusher of black currant and dark Bing cherry garnished with tangy red berry fruit and baking spice. It’s medium weight with a satin-smooth mouth feel and a lengthy, balanced and brimming with fruit finish. Bring over the gang and pour with burgers, gourmet sausage or grilled steak. Kudos to winemaker, Jeff Innes. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Palatine Hills Estate ‘Quattro’ 2011
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $14.95 (305383)
Honeyed, floral notes mingling with spice aromas on the nose, this dishes up a racy, tangy wash of lemon curd, lime zest and Granny Smith apple. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and finishes in a blaze of crisp, refreshing tang. A great summer quaffer, it has the goods to pair with lighter-styled appetizers of sea food, chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Brickyard Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (346866) 10.0% alcohol
This is lively and lifted on the nose with lemongrass and lime cordial aromas heralding an off-dry, delightful mouthful of sweet and tang. It bathes the palate with lemon curd, key lime pie and grilled, sugared grapefruit. Mid weight with good mouth feel, the aftertaste is racy, tangy and lip-smacking delectable. Glorious on its own with the balance and complexity to pour with spicy Asian dishes—General Tso’s chicken, Pad Thai, or Moo Shou pork, and others. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan