Winecurrent

July 18, 2013 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • How cool is that? – a subscriber sent thanks for a review on the Cathedral Cellars Shiraz. Most importantly, he mentioned chilling before serving. When the temperature reaches 21C or so, red wine benefits from chilling. Forty minutes in the fridge should do the trick if the temperatures is +25C; below that, twenty minutes or so should work.
  • Exceptional value winesExceptional Value! a bonanza! Eight (out of +55 wines) meet the strict price/quality criteria; easily found by spotting the icon.
  • Vic’s picks – Bachelder from Niagara and Hamilton-Russell from RSA in the Chardonnay Feature; the Burgess Napa Cab and Folie à Deux Zinfandel under California: Red Wine; every wine with a Exceptional Value!
  • 5-star wine – only one in this publication – the Bachelder, first wine reviewed in the Chardonnay Feature.


There are over 50 reviews in the July 20, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the Chardonnay Feature plus five that follow. 


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first.

July 20, 2013 Vintages Release

Chardonnay Feature

***** drink or cellar
Bachelder ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $44.95 (345819) 13.9% alcohol
Wow—this is balanced and structured with a lingering aftertaste and oodles of charm. Sandalwood, orange blossom and exotic spice aromas on the nose presage a fully textured, creamy smooth, complex gusher of tangy citrus and slate/mineral mingling with apple pie spice, toasty bits and rich, luscious peach and nectarine on the palate and finish. It’s full bodied with excellent depth and five years optimum drinking assured. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cave Spring ‘CSV Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (529941) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with subtle aromas of stone fruit and vanilla leading to a crisp, refreshing river of sweet, ripe stone fruit and honeydew melon nicely balanced with a tangy dollop of lemon acidity. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length aftertaste that’s charming and mouth-watering good. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish and steamed bok choy. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (640516) 13.5% alcohol
Sexy aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and musky tones herald a mid-weight, luscious wave of beautifully structured, delightful flavours with spice, lemony citrus, apricot and bright yellow plum on the palate, infusing the finish. The aftertaste comes up brimming with grilled pineapple and that classic Gewürtz, citrus-fruit-pith bite at the end. It’s crisp and tangy and built for sipping on its own or with ceviche, sashimi or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Poplar Grove Chardonnay 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $27.95 (338434) 12.4% alcohol
This is light and lively with quiet aromas of floral notes, stone fruit and spice on the nose. A light-on-its-feet wash of Granny Smith apple, lemon curd along with a wisp of tropical fruit bathe the palate. It’s crisp and tangy with a solid line of acidity running throughout. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nautilus Chardonnay 2011
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (657569) 14.0% alcohol
This family-owned, highly respected Kiwi producer—owned by Aussie, Robert Hill Smith, who also heads Yalumba—dishes up a dandy; it’s chockfull of flavour, depth and complexity. Herbaceous, leesy and mineral on the nose, it delivers a gusher of peach, pear and Granny Smith apple, balanced and beautiful, lip-smacking good. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a structured and elegant, mouth-watering aftertaste. Good to go with grilled, salt and pepper, breaded calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2011
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley $32.95 (931006) 13.0% alcohol
They’re a world-renowned, exclusively Chardonnay/Pinot Noir producer that never misstep; they’re worth a brief read if you’re a wine lover… Click here. Aromatic and showy, the nose offers ripe apple, fig, toasty bits and key lime pie. It showers the palate with superbly balanced and structured flavour—mango, spice cake and notions of mineral/slate. The aftertaste is spot on with crisp refreshing tang and a solid line of pear and stone fruit throughout. Pick one up, just for the wonderful experience; drinking well now to the end of this decade. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Jean Leon ‘3055’ Chardonnay 2012
DO Penedès $18.95 (333062) 13.5% alcohol
The lifted nose introduces a wave of crisp, green apple, tropical fruit and baking spice that persists through the mid-length aftertaste. This is light on its feet and straightforward with no rough edges. Good for sipping now and, especially when poured alongside lighter appetizers—seafood, pork, chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Tollgate Fumé Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (335711) 14.0% alcohol
This blasts from the glass with intriguing aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and green nettles. There’s a solid line of persistent flavour on the palate with rich, ripe tropical fruit and gooseberry to the fore. It’s nicely textured with medium weight and a balanced, lingering crisp refreshing aftertaste showcasing wisps of roasted herbs and stone fruit. Pour with white pizza topped with crumbled chèvre and arugula. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Union Squared ‘White’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (346775) 13.0% alcohol
Pit fruit, mineral and delightful red licorice aromas on the nose, this dishes up a solid line of acidity with white grapefruit and lemon-lime predominant, garnished with notions of yellow peach and buckwheat honey. It’s straightforward and persistent throughout, delivering a racy, tangy, mouth-watering experience. Give it a go with pan-seared fish or prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Nova Scotia: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Gasperau Muscat 2011
Nova Scotia $19.95 (327981) 12.0% alcohol
This light-as-a-feather Muscat blossoms on the nose with rose petals, Asian spice and Turkish delight aromas preceding a delicate wash of lemon zest and tart peel marmalade interlaced with a solid line of bracing acidity that persists through the lip-smacking finish, It’s poured well with prawn ceviche or tuna sashimi. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Grange of Prince Edward Estate Cabernet Franc 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 (173187) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, piquant spice and sprigs of herbs followed by a tangy wash of red currant and Montmorency cherry interweaving with roasted herbs and toasted notes on the medium weight, textured palate. The mid-length, dry, racy finish is mouth-watering and layers on some smoky notes. This is poured well with rub-seasoned, smoked and grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Chardonnay 2011
Napa Valley $29.95 (084988) 14.1% alcohol
Tropical fruit, rosewood and sweet vanilla aromas presage a balanced, complex, delectable wash on the palate—ripe apple, melon and a salad bowl of orchard fruit. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and considerable structure. Rich lashings of fruit and wisps of toast persist through the lingering, mouth-watering finish. Dare I say… yummy? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Clos du Bois Chardonnay 2011
North Coast $18.95 (124867) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of sweet vanilla and toasted oaky notes precede a smooth, mellow wash of balanced flavour—tropical fruit, apple and pear along with good moderating acidity via lemony tang and deftly integrated oak. It’s medium-full bodied with excellent mouth feel and a lingering finish that’s crisp, refreshing and simply delicious. Good on its own or poured alongside roasted rotisserie chicken, slow-cooked pork or, for a splurge – lobster tails. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Napa Valley $31.95 (094375) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of grassy notes, gooseberry and wisps of spice-scented oak introduce a light-on-its-feet, nicely textured line of passion fruit, lemongrass and key lime on the palate, persisting though the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. It’s the near-perfect pairing with a slice of baguette spread liberally with goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Sterling Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $22.95 (330233) 14.5% alcohol
Lovely aromas of baking spice, sandalwood and rich, ripe pineapple open this nicely balanced Cali Chard. A well-textured, medium-full weight river of crisp Granny Smith apple and lemony tang mingle with notions of white peach on the palate. The finish lingers, lip-smacking good. Give it a go with pan-seared white fish or grilled prawns. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $37.95 (291914) 14.4% alcohol
A rich and alluring nose of briary berry and kitchen spice provide segue to a dazzling Napa Cab. Oozing with elegance and charm, it bathes the palate with an outstanding wash of deftly balanced, complex flavours—mint-infused cherry, cassis and dark chocolate galore. It’s mid-full weight with a silky smooth texture and a lingering luxurious finish of deftly integrated oak and excellent moderating acidity. It flirts with 5-stars; what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Folie à Deux Zinfandel 2010
Sonoma County $23.95 (147231) 14.3% alcohol
This will grab your attention; it’s rich, robust and fully flavoured with good sense of proportion. Aromas of dark berry fruit, spice box and black cherry abound. Thick juicy flavours of jammy briary berry and kirsch liqueur are nicely balanced with tangy currant and red cherry as it flows over the palate in well-textured waves. It finishes with good focus and balance, allowing each sip to be as good or better than the last. A superb pairing with grilled lamb or smoked, grilled back ribs basted in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
The Show Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
California $17.95 (140715) 13.9% alcohol
The red, black and white label with its bucking bronco is an attention getter, as is the wine. It dishes up a lifted nose of earthy truffles, spice box and ripe, dark berry fruit. A medium-full bodied, nicely textured wash of milk chocolate and maraschino cherry coats the plate interweaving with sweet vanilla and black currant through the persistent aftertaste. There’s a lick of tannin here that’s mitigated via a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Columbia Valley $17.95 (240093) 13.9% alcohol
Here’s another gem from Columbia Crest and this Washington State AVA; it opens with alluring aromas of black currant and espresso roast aromas. Oozing flavour, structure and complexity, sweet, ripe briary berry, bittersweet chocolate, sweet vanilla and juicy Bing cherry flow over the palate. It’s mid weight with a lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza $15.95 (261867) 15.2% alcohol
Hand harvested, hand sorted from +50-year-old vines. Aromas of wood smoke, alluring floral notes and cedar presage a delectable wash of fully flavoured, full-bodied, gorgeously textured black currant and sweet, ripe, black Bing cherry interwoven with spice and oodles of charm. It’s structured and complex, finishing with excellent balancing tang and wisps of fine-grained, sweet tannin. Pick up a few for summer/fall barbecues this year and next. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Caliterra ‘Tributo Single Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2011
Casablanca Valley $15.95 (144709) 13.5% alcohol
Everything’s in place here—it’s crisp and refreshing, full of flavour, nicely balanced with a mouth-watering aftertaste. It opens with aromas of buttered toast, spice and orchard fruit heralding a silky-smooth, mid-weight wash of white peach and nectarine mingling with tangy lemon curd and Granny Smith apple. Finishing crisp, clean and lip-smacking good, it’s versatile at the table—chicken, lobster, fish, pork, veal. Don’t hesitate, scoop up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Carmen ‘Gran Reserva’ Carmenère 2011
El Peñasco Vineyard, Apalta, Colchagua Valley $17.95 (439166) 13.5% alcohol
Earthy notes, tar and espresso roast aromas on the nose, this blankets the palate with a persistent stream of rich, black briary berry, sour cherry and wisps of tannin. This has good balance, mid-full weight and sports a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste that showcases good fruit along with structure from underlying ripe tannin and wisps of wood smoke and roasted herbs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Tamaya ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Limari Valley $14.95 (292367) 13.5% alcohol
Plenty going on in the nose of this take-no-prisoners Cab with an array of aromas—wood smoke, dark berry fruit, black licorice and mixed spice. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a solid line of balanced fruit throughout. A rich, robust, fully flavoured gusher of palate-coating black currant, cassis and piquant spice precede a lengthy, mouth-watering memorable finish. An embarrassment of riches, you don’t have to be either to pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Rosé Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Natura Rosé 2012
Rapel Valley $13.95 (277962) 13.5% alcohol
Freshly sliced strawberry, ripe red apple and wild-flower aromas presage a crisp, refreshing wave of grilled, sugared, ruby red grapefruit, tangy red currant and juicy blood orange. This is light-medium bodied with a delightful, mouth-watering aftertaste. Lovely sipped, has the oomph to pair with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mollydooker ‘Blue Eyed Boy’ Shiraz 2009
South Australia $55.95 (327379) 16.0% alcohol
This is a bold, brash, hi-octane, jammy Aussie Shiraz coating the palate with teeth-staining flavour, depth and hedonistic pleasure galore. Aromas of dark berry fruit, cinnamon and nutmeg mingle with peppery and savoury aromas heralding a gusher of über-ripe mulberry, black briary berry and espresso roast. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a monumental, balanced and beautiful aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma ‘Old Bush Vine’ Grenache 2010
McLaren Vale, South Australia $25.95 (108068) 14.8% alcohol
Juicy, rich and absolutely delectable, it’s a top-notch Grenache. Aromas of wood smoke, dark coffee and black cherry herald a rich, tangy flow of spice-infused red cherry, and racy black currant bathing the palate, dominating the dry, refreshing, lip-smacking and balanced aftertaste. It’s medium-plus weight with good texture and a fine-grained tannin underpinning. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Shiraz 2010 

McLaren Vale, Australia $18.95 (327387) 14.0% alcohol 

This is silky smooth, well balanced and fruit forward; it offers good value. Black pepper, dark plum and ripe, dark berry fruit blossom from this mid-weight, harmonious red. Sweet, ripe mulberry and bright red cherry interlace with spice on the palate seamlessly forming a lengthy, balanced and beautiful aftertaste that’s charming, mouth-watering and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Small Gully ‘The Formula’ Robert’s Shiraz 2008
South Australia $18.95 (142935) 15.9% alcohol
The 2006 was highly recommended by winecurrent when released, expect similar quality from this single-vineyard 2008. The lifted, complex nose offers aromas of toasty oak, dark cherry, vanilla and fennel. There are rich, palate-bathing flavours of Bing cherry, mulberry and dried currant interwoven with exotic spice and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and long, balanced aftertaste. So… what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $17.95 (606848) 13.0% alcohol
This is racy, grassy, streaked with nerve and verve. The lively nose is leesy, grassy and nettles preceding a solid line of lemon zest, passion fruit and gooseberry that’s lip-smacking tangy and oozing acidity. It’s mid weight with decent texture and wisps of toast and oak on the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Serve with grilled calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2012
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (981167) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted and lively aromas explode on the nose with honeysuckle and Asian spice to the fore. A spirited river of yellow peach, ripe apricot and tropical fruit interweave with racy citrus and oodles of charm on the palate. Mid weight and silky textured, the aftertaste bristles with a bracing line of acidity; it’s crisp and refreshing, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
KWV ‘Cathedral Cellar Triptych’ 2008
WO Western Cape $15.95 (053124) 14.0% alcohol
This Cab, Shiraz, Merlot blend is a beauty—Triptych: a set of 3 to be appreciated together. This showcases purity of fruit, deft balance and delicious flavour. Aromas of dark chocolate, smoky tar and dark berry fruit herald a well-defined stream of black currant and sweet, ripe mulberry garnished with cassis and spice on the palate and through the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. There’s good weight with a creamy-smooth mouth feel, lovely structure and medium-term cellaring potential. Place a few in the cart. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Rolly Gassmann ‘Rotleibel de Rorschwihr’ Auxerrois 2007
AOC Alsace $19.95 (328872) 13.0% alcohol
We don’t see a lot of this grape—Auxerrois—despite its +60 aliases; this is certainly worth a punt. Aromas of honeyed pit fruit and spice intro a delightful river of flavour on the sweet side of off dry—caramel, orange marmalade, and grilled pineapple mingle with exotic spice and lemon pie filling. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy, rich aftertaste. Pour with spicy, tandoori chicken or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Château Balac 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc $24.95 (336933) 13.5% alcohol
This is tangy, dry and fruity, mid weight and nicely textured with balance and a lengthy finish. Aromas of spice, red and black berry fruit interweave with notions of mocha and dark toast. The aftertaste layers on earthy notes and red and black berry fruit. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château Fontenelles ‘Cuvée Notre Dame’ Corbières 2008
AOP Corbières $16.95 (269522) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvédre—opens with aromas of peppery spice, graphite and ripe berry fruit. Rich, concentrated and creamy smooth on the palate, savoury-infused flavours—black plum, tangy red cherry and briary berry—interweave with roasted herbs and licks of tannin. The dry, mouth-watering aftertaste is fruity and lengthy. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving with rosemary-rubbed, grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château Ventenac ‘La Grande Réserve’ Cabardès 2009
AOP Cabardès $17.95 (336255) 13.5% alcohol
Cabardès is a small, new-ish (1999), Languedoc-Roussillon, AOP near the historic, walled town of Carcassonne. The lifted, spirited nose of cassis, dusty earthiness and spice-infused dark berry fruit provides entry to a ripe, rich gusher of dark berry fruit and tangy, cherry interlaced with tobacco and piquant spice. This is medium-bodied with good mouth feel and good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2010
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $24.95 (643239) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of earthy underbrush and truffles mingle with notions of berry fruit and black plum on the nose. There’s a boatload of racy tang here from red currant and sour cherry that meets up with riper black fruit and wisps of cassis on the back palate and aftertaste. This will go well with smoked, grilled back ribs. Best aerated/decanted three-hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Simian Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $42.95 (328575) 15.0% alcohol
This opens with aromas of dark berry fruit, new leather and garrigue on the nose. It splashes over the palate with great sense of purpose and a solid core of fruity flavour—juicy, black, bramble berry, tangy red cherry and spice-laden black plum. Medium-full weight with a creamy-smooth feel, it replays flavour and texture on the lengthy finish while adding wisps of cassis and black licorice. It’s good to go now and on to 2025 and is paired well with grilled, boned, leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Couly-Dutheil ‘René Couly’ Chinon Rosé 2012
AOC Chinon $15.95 (323360) 12.5% alcohol
There’s interesting tension here between sweet and tangy flavours rolling over the palate with mid-weight, nicely textured waves. There are floral notes, red berry fruit and spice on the nose while the palate’s treated to waves of strawberry, raspberry and red currant garnished with piquant spice and notions of kirsch liqueur. It finishes lengthy, dry and crisp, with solid construction. Good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château d’Angles la Clape Rosé 2012
AOC La Clape $15.95 (323386) 13.5% alcohol
Floral, citrus and berry fruit aromas intro this nicely structured GSM Rosé with depth and plenty of oomph. Nectarine, watermelon and strawberry flavours interlace with slate/mineral, herbs/spice and wisps of supple tannin. It’s mid bodied with good mouth feel and a racy refreshing aftertaste wreathed in citrus and grilled red grapefruit. This pairs well with white pizza, roast chicken or deli board. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Corne-Loup Tavel Rosé 2012
AOC Tavel $17.95 (071209) 13.5% alcohol
This hails from a region that makes only Rosé; it’s full of fruit and charming. Electric-pink hued and perfumed, aromas of red cherry/berry and spice provide segue to a creamy-smooth, mid-weight river of cranberry, red currant and cherry on the palate. It’s dry, crisp and refreshing on the finish. Great sipped on its own, it matches up well to Caesar salad under thin strips of grilled chicken breast. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Caldora Yume Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $19.95 (330217) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of mocha and earthy tones precede a lovely flow of dark, bittersweet chocolate, black licorice framed by an array of red and dark berry fruit. This is quite nicely textured with good weight and depth of flavour. Its finishes dry, lengthy, fruit forward and well balanced with wisps of exotic spice and sprigs of roasted herbs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cascina Del Pozzo ‘Fossamara’ Barbera 2010 

DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $15.95 (334367) 13.5% alcohol 

An involved nose of toasty oak, dark berry fruit and espresso roast provides segue for a medium-full bodied river of dark, juicy cherry and black currant mingling with leather and earthy nuances on the palate. It sports good mouth feel, deft balance and a lengthy aftertaste of ripe mulberry and spice underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fantino Cascina Dardi-Bussia Barolo Riserva 2004
DOCG Barolo $39.95 (268524) 14.0% alcohol
This is a good opportunity to pop the cork on a decade-old, well-made red from one of Italy’s premiere regions. The perfumed aromas of lilac, pipe tobacco and sweet vanilla usher in delicate, stylish flavours of dried currants, spice cake and sandalwood that persist in waves over the palate and through the sumptuous aftertaste. This is medium weight with impeccable balance and a dry, satisfying aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with simply prepared pork tenderloin or fowl. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Papale ‘Lineo Oro’ Primitivo di Manduria 2010
DOP Primitivo di Manduria $19.95 (261784) 14.0% alcohol
Mushroom, Asian spice and tobacco leaf on the nose, this Wine of the Month showcases ripe mulberry, briary berry and sweet black plum compote. Medium bodied, rich and concentrated, it has decent mouth feel and a lingering finish showing lots of ripe fruit and oodles of spice. Just the ticket for smoked, grilled ribs basted with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fontalpino Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $23.95 (275859) 14.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, underbrush and rosewood provide entry to this well-paced Sangiovese. There are myriad, sweet, dark fruit flavours—currant, cherry, mulberry—wreathed in mocha and earthy notes and underpinned by soft, fine-grained tannin. This slides easily over the palate in silky waves and finishes with good balance and style. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Renieri ‘Invetro’ Toscano 2010
IGT Toscano $19.95 (330696) 14.0% alcohol
Sporting alluring aromas of lavender, spice box and underbrush, this red blend—50% Sangiovese, 25% Cab Sauv, 25% Merlot—dishes up a balanced river of spice-laden flavour. Richly flavoured and fully textured, waves of black, briary berry, roasted herbs and black plum coat the palate. It’s tangy and balanced on the fruit-forward finish layering on wisps of minerality. Good to go now and paired well with meat-laden gourmet pizza or pasta in savoury tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Farina Parziale Appassimento 2011
IGT Appassimento $15.95 (326702) 13.5% alcohol
A popular style of red, Appassimento offers a similar experience to Amarone—not quite as good—but close enough at 1/2 the price. Fig, Christmas cake spice and dried currants on the nose, it breaks over the palate in a sweet, ripe wash of ripe, dark cherry and spice-laden black currant. It’s mid-full weight and satin smooth with a long, fruit-filled aftertaste. Enjoy with chunks and shards of aged Parmagiana Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de Ventozelo Touriga Nacional 2009
DOC Douro $19.95 (657452) 14.5% alcohol
From an excellent producer, this dishes up a rich and tangy red that’s great value. Red cherry, spice and mocha on the nose, it bathes the palate with black currant and black Bing cherry wreathed in roasted herbs, mixed spice and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-plus bodied with a creamy texture and lingering aftertaste that’s fruit-forward and tangy underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving or tuck away until 2015, (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Baron de Ley ‘Gran Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $29.95 (642496) 13.5% alcohol
From a great vintage, floral, leather and sandalwood aromas presage a racy, tangy, spice-infused line of red cherry, red currant and tangy notions of cranberry. It’s medium bodied and persistent throughout with a lip-smacking aftertaste. It pours well with pasta in meat-tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cerro Anon ‘Reserva’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (114306) 14.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of cedar, baking spice, floral notes and field berry fruit provide segue to a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of red fruit. Look for currant, cherry and pomegranate interweaving with earthy notes, spice and smoky bits. Balanced with structure and charm, the aftertaste lingers with ripe, sweet mulberry and mouth-watering acidity in a drink-me-now style. Pour alongside prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vizcarra ‘Senda del Oro Roble’ 2011
DO Ribera del Duero $17.95 (331249) 14.5% alcohol
Spice, over-ripe berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and spice box aromas intro rich and rustic splashes of black currant, sour cherry and wisps of grainy tannin. This is medium weight with good mouth feel and touches of toasty oak. It finishes racy, dry and tangy with spice-infused black plum and hints of mint and red cherry. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

***1/2 drink now
Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio 2012
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $18.95 (326090) 12.0% alcohol
Floral notes and orange zest aromas herald a racy, tangy mouthful of lip-smacking acidity mingling with green apple and hints of stone fruit. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel and a brief racy, refreshing aftertaste. This pair well with a fresh green salad under light vinaigrette and grilled chicken strips. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Tenuta di Salviano Orvieto Classico Superiore 2012
DOC Orvieto Classico Superiore, Umbria, Italy $14.95 (714188) 13.0% alcohol
This is a top-drawer white blend from one of Italy’s most famous wine families. Aromas of bananas, floral notes and wisps of tropical fruit introduce this light-medium bodied, creamy smooth gem. Crisp refreshing waves of grapefruit, lemon and peach bathe the palate, infusing the mouth-watering finish. There’s crisp green apple and herbaceous notes as well on the aftertaste. A lovely white for sipping or poured with lighter-styled sea food like pan-seared scallops; it’s very well priced. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Tic Tok Pocketwatch’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Central Ranges, NSW, Australia $15.95 (187179) 14.0% alcohol
Rich, ripe aromas of black plum, briary berry and Asian spice provide segue to a full-flavoured torrent of black cherry and dark berry fruit garnished with roasted herbs. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a tangy, well-balanced finish with lots of charm. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Robert Oatley ‘Tic Tok Pocketwatch’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Western Australia $14.95 (187039) 12.0% alcohol
Tropical fruit, peach, pear and wisps of herbaceous notes on the nose, it opens with a mid bodied, nicely textured wash of key lime pie and racy, freshly squeezed lime. It’s crisp and refreshing and the perfect foil to a sultry, summer afternoon poured alongside grilled calamari. The brief finish is tangy and mouth watering. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Pezoules Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Peloponnese, Greece $11.95 (274696) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, coffee and vanilla bean mingle with forest-floor earthiness, presaging a tangy river of red currant and sour cherry balanced nicely with ripe, dark berry fruit on the palate. It’s medium bodied with a solid line of acidity throughout. The lingering dry, mouth-watering aftertaste layers on good fruit and wisps of mocha—good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan