June 20, 2013 Newsletter

Canada Day is just around the corner; you may wish to stock up on Canadian wines for July 1st and the entire summer. We’ve flagged them . Most are available now and you can take advantage of the stunning vintages experienced recently in Ontario. There are 11 to choose from. 


Highlights include:

• Exceptional value wines – only 7 (out of 70) wines meet the strict price/quality criteria – five in the Main Release, two following, $11.95 – $25.95
• Susan’s luncheon – touring the Niagara wine region, she missed this Vintages tasting. However, earlier she tasted Robert Mondavi wines over lunch with MW Mark DeVere writing up the lunch and the wines. Read about it here …
• Vic’s picks – 4½ stars, $29.95 a Closson Chase Chardonnay under New in Ontario Wineries; 5 stars, , $25.95 a Benjamin Bridge under Sparkling Wine; 5 stars, @21.95 a Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc under New Zealand: White Wine.
• 5 stars – an unusually high number, there are three in the newsletter, two above and a Pinot Gris under Germany: White Wine

There are 55 reviews from the June 22, 2013 Vintages Release beginning with the Rhône Valley Feature. There were almost 70 wines tasted, spat and reviewed here. 


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, best to phone first. 

June 22, 2013 Release

Rhône Valley Feature

Château Signac ‘Cuvée Terra Amata’ 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Chusclan $22.95 (140079) 15.5% alcohol
Mixed spice, garrigue and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose presage a balanced river of ripe currants, dark, juicy cherry and tangy, black raspberry mingling with mint and fennel rolling over the palate in waves. It’s mid-full weight with very good texture and a lingering aftertaste. This offers good value and is deep and structured, pairing well with grilled or roasted red meats. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Saint Gayan Gigondas 2009
AOC Gigondas $29.95 (718221) 13.0% alcohol
A perfumed nose of truffles, roasted herbs, toasty bits and dark, briary berry waft easily from this smooth, mellow, predominantly Grenache, red blend. It’s nicely structured, medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a palate-bathing wash of bramble berry pie, kirsch and spice-infused black plum. The lengthy finish is balanced, mouth watering and just plain delicious. Good to go now and on to 2019 poured on its own or alongside lamb kebabs. (Vic Harradine)


Vieux Clocher ‘Symphonie des Galets’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (328591) 14.5% alcohol
‘Galets’ are round, smooth rocks abounding in this appellation conserving moisture and absorbing the sun’s heat, reflecting back on vines during cool evenings hastening fruit ripening. The robust nose dishes up lively aromas of tarry notes, mocha and roasted herbs and spice. This is medium bodied with excellent texture and oodles of charm on the palate with an array of fruit-laden delights—sweet, ripe mulberry, dried black currant and rich black cherry garnished with wisps of dark chocolate. The long tarry finish is balanced and bolstered by a lick of supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (959627) 14.5% alcohol
Opening with a relatively quiet nose of toast and field berry fruit, it springs to action with a mid-weight river of flavour—red and black currants and dark cherry garnished with roasted herbs. There’s good mouth feel coupled with a balanced finish that layers on tangy fruit and wisps of tannin. Has lots to offer; give it a go with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Croix Valong ‘La Légende’ Côtes du Rhône 2010
AP Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (328443) 14.0% alcohol
Dark coffee, tar and wood smoke mingle with berry fruit on the involved nose. It’s medium bodied with good texture pouring a streak of palate-bathing flavours over the palate with red currant, sour cherry and a lick of tannin to the fore. It finishes in a blaze of red berry and red cherry fruit interweaving with spice and roasted herbs. (Vic Harradine)


Lavau Gigondas 2010
AOC Gigondas $26.95 (234955) 14.0% alcohol
A tapestry of aromas, sandal wood, gamy notes, peppery spice and wisps of berry fruit, waft from this mid-full weight, stylish, red blend—50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. There’s oodles of tangy, racy acidity on the palate—red currant and cranberry—interlaced with black currant and roasted herbs. The finish is mid-length replaying the above and layering on a solid lick of grippy tannin—open this cellar dweller 2016-2021. Built for paté, smoked meat and grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (062711) 14.0% alcohol
Dried currants, gamy notes and garrigue—aromas of lavender, rosemary, sage, thyme that grow in the area—on the nose, this is full bodied, fully flavoured and good value; easily the pick of this litter. Rich, sweet, flavours coat the palate with ripe mulberry, cassis and juicy, black, Bing cherry interwoven with anise, espresso roast and wisps of piquant spice, It’s smooth and purposeful with a lingering, balanced, beautiful aftertaste. Good now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


La Ferme du Mont ‘Le Ponnant’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2011
AP Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.00 (171371) 14.5% alcohol
This offers very good value. Opening with subdued aromas of berry fruit, floral and toasty notes, it dishes up a persistent river of red and black berry fruit mingling with spice, roasted herbs and notions of underbrush/forest floor on the palate and through the crisp, dry aftertaste. There’s good balance throughout in this mid-weight, nicely textured red blend. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa Mini-feature

Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2011
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (739995) 13.5% alcohol
Tangerine and honeysuckle mingle with citrus and mineral notes on the nose of this medium-full bodied, nicely textured tangy white. It washes over the palate with a solid core of tropical fruit and lemony citrus garnished with kitchen spice and apple crisp. There’s good balance and a pleasing mid-length finish. (Vic Harradine)


Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2012
WO Western Cape $14.95 (328559) 14.7% alcohol
Aromas of crisp green apple, citrus, pineapple and pit fruit abound in this mid-full bodied, racy Chardonnay. There’s a focused spine of nerve and verve on the palate with racy white grapefruit and tangy lemon curd interweaving with Granny Smith apple and wisps of orange zest. It streaks over the finish with replays, finishing crisp, fresh and mouth watering. Pour alongside prawn ceviche or grilled calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)


Flagstone ‘Writer’s Block’ Pinotage 2010
WO Western Cape $19.95 (243337) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of smoky, tarry notes wreathed in dark coffee herald a spirited river of smooth, mellow, dark berry fruit, sweet dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste of ripe, mulberry and tangy black currant underpinned by supple tannin and good moderating acidity. Pour alongside grilled back ribs basted with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Calem ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2006
DOC Douro $19.95 (912550) 20.0% alcohol
This rips from the glass with piquant spice and rich, sweet, dark berry fruit aromas. It bathes the palate with kirsch liqueur, black plum compote garnished with fig and raisin. There’s good weight and balance here with a lingering finish layering on lashings of ripe sweet mulberry fruit and a supple tannin underpinning. Pour on its own or alongside your favourite death-by-chocolate dessert. (Vic Harradine)

Dessert Wine

Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage

Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL 15.0% alcohol

Torres has been producing this wine since the 1940s – no wonder it’s so beautifully wrought! Tawny in colour, this lovely dessert wine has high-toned aromas of dried fruits—in particular dried apricots—honey and toast. The texture is rich, sumptuous and honeyed, with pretty notes of orange zest garnishing the dried fruit flavours. It’s full-bodied and opulent with tangy acidity a great foil for the sweetness. The finish is extended and very nicely balanced. It’s a treat on its own or with fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

Gerry McConnell and the late Dara Gordon, were owners of Benjamin Bridge Winery in 2000 contracting two premier wine consultants, *Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling, to assess and make winemaking recommendations for their nascent, 60-acre property adjacent to the Gaspereau River in Nova Scotia. Read about it here …

And this brings us to the classy 2012 Nova 7. Peculiar, spirited, not for the feint of heart, this Moscato d’Asti-inspired gem leaves one groping for descriptors and lining up early for a few bottles on release day.


Benjamin Bridge ‘Nova 7’ 2012
Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia $25.95 (256289) 6.5% alcohol
Honeysuckle, rosewater and exotic, piquant spice and herbs interweave with aromas of orange liqueur on the spirited nose. Spritzy, mouth-filling waves of peel marmalade, apricot chutney and lime-laced guava splash over the palate in unfettered abandon. It’s sweet on the palate, crisp, refreshing on the finish, all deftly balanced and lip-smacking good—how good is that. A dandy conversation-starter or pour with Stilton or Bleu Bénédictin. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (089011) 12.5% alcohol
Alluring on the nose; aromas of lemon curd, passion fruit and key lime abound. A wave of juicy, delectable grilled pineapple and herb-infused gooseberry bathe the palate. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lingering, lip-smacking finish. Balance and complexity showcase a well-paced and well-priced gem. Pour alongside fresh, ripe, fig halves topped with grilled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2010 

VQA Short Hills Bench $15.95 (557165) 11.0% alcohol 

Straw hued, proffering rich fruity aromas—citrus, pear, floral—this is a deftly balanced, fresh, off-dry gem. There’s lovely harmony between the clean spine of acidity and the well-ripened fruit leading to a lingering, tangy sweetness on the finish. Serve with a caramelized onion and squash galette or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: White Wine

Calliope Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA British Columbia $19.95 (258905) 13.5% alcohol
Grassy, nettles and passion fruit aromas on the nose, this streaks over the palate with racy, tangy, lemon-lime, kiwi, pineapple and white grapefruit wreathed in sharp, piquant spice and herbaceous notes. It’s mid weight and oozing with tang throughout. The finish is crisp, refreshing and mouth-watering; give it a go with pan-seared fish under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Sebastiani Chardonnay 2010
Sonoma County $19.95 (030791) 13.5% alcohol
This is one of those Wow! wines; you’ll be pleased you stretched your budget for a few bottles. It’s quintessential California Cab at a terrific price. There’s sweet vanilla, floral notes, apple cobbler, lemon yoghurt and spice throughout—the nose, palate and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s deftly balanced, medium-plus weight, with a creamy buttery mouth feel and the barest hint of toasty oak. Good on its own, terrific with chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Chardonnay 2010
Columbia Valley $16.95 (366542) 13.5% alcohol
Another winner from this producer, it opens with sandalwood and spice on the nose. Soft, smooth and mellow—gentle flavours caress the palate with wisps of toasty oak and spice interlaced with white nectarine and juicy pear. This is mid weight with a creamy mouth feel and luxurious, lingering aftertaste dominated by tropical fruit, balanced by citrus, garnished with charm; it’s simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Bonterra Zinfandel 2010
Mendocino County $19.95 (530139) 14.5% alcohol
This is Zin as one might expect—ripe briary fruit with spice—but there’s more, even more than one might hope for—balance and structure with flashes of elegance. Aromas of dark, berry fruit, tarry notes and spice-laden black plum abound and provide segue for a balanced and beautiful river of dark, bramble berry pie and black cherry mingling with peppery spice coating the palate and lingering, mouth-watering finish. There’s supple tannin and good moderating acidity with each sip as good or better than the previous; it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)


Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol
Movie mogul Francis Ford Coppola takes the winery and its wine very seriously; this is no vanity-license-plate adventure. The alluring, lifted nose delivers an exotic array of aromas—roasted herbs, Asian spice, sweet vanilla and fennel. Silky smooth with mid weight and great balance, it slides over the palate with minty, dark cherry and black currant interwoven with warm, peppery spice notes. The finish lingers, underpinned by fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)


Kunde Zinfandel 2008
Sonoma Valley $21.95 (965921) 14.5% alcohol
This is medium weight with very good mouth feel and more than its fair share of sweet, jammy fruit. Aromas of spice-infused cherry and plum herald a wash of boysenberry jam and spiced black plum compote interlaced with notions of wood smoke and espresso roast. It sports a mid-length, balanced aftertaste and is built for smoked, grilled back ribs slathered in spicy, barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Vina Robles ‘Red 4’ 2009
Paso Robles $19.95 (261628) 14.9% alcohol
It’s a deep, concentrated, red blend—Petit Sirah, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre—that offers up a delightful nose of espresso roast, chocolate and tar with hints of charry toast and dark berry fruit aromas. Medium bodied with generous mouth feel, there’s a gusher of dark, ripe berry fruit and spice mingling with cassis and kirsch liqueur on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. There’s good acidity, deft balance and enough oomph and fine-grained tannin to provide structure and interest. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay 2012
San Rafael, Mendoza $14.95 (001461) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a tidy Chardonnay that won’t disappoint even the most critical at this price. It’s well balanced, fully flavoured, nicely textured and has a price-quality ratio tipped well in your favour. Aromas of ripe apple, sweet vanilla and oodles of spice and citrus abound on the nose. It’s mid-full bodied with a satiny-smooth delivery of tropical fruit, grilled pineapple and lemon curd on the palate and long, crisp and refreshing finish. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Lamadrid ‘Single Vineyard Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

Argentina $17.95 (223206) 14.8% alcohol 

Smoky, toasty aromas interlace with cassis and cherry presaging racy, tangy waves of red currant and sour cherry adorned with savoury herbs. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a solid lick of tannin on the palate and lingering finish. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Concha Y Toro ‘Marqués de Casa Concha’ Syrah 2009
DO Buin, Maipo Valley $19.95 (019042) 14.5% alcohol
Complex aromas of blueberry, dried currant, peppery spice and dark, juicy cherry provide segue for a balanced, structured river of sweet cassis, racy, black raspberry and wisps of black plum compote on the palate. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length finish and aftertaste of red and black cherry. Pour on its own or with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Peter Lehmann ‘Layers’ Shiraz/Tempranillo/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (138883) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and robust with complexity, balance and good structure; it pretty much has it all. There are oodles of dark cherry and field berry aromas interlaced with earthy, tarry notes. Medium weight racy red cherry/berry tang mingles with darker, riper mulberry and black currant supported by fine-grained tannin and good balance, the long finish rounds it all out with a mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


The Hedonist Shiraz 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (090191) 14.0% alcohol
This bio-dynamic gem lives up to its name… in spades. It rips from the glass with a lifted bouquet of espresso roast, kitchen and peppery spice along with lively, red berry fruit. It bathes the palate with a silky, full-bodied, fully flavoured wash of ripe mulberry, juicy black plum and dark, briary berry garnished with toast and peppery spice. This was harvested from low-yield, 16-year-old vines, aged in 50% new French barrels and 50% one-year-old American then bottled unfiltered. Fashioned by one of Australia’s most-decorated winemakers, complex and structured, fruit-laden and delicious with a layered, lengthy aftertaste; how’s that? (Vic Harradine)


Wakefield Merlot 2012
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (683201) 14.0% alcohol
Minty black plum aromas meld with floral and spice on the nose of this nicely structured, layered Merlot. Rich, luscious flavours roll over the palate with currant, black raspberry and spice-laden kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied and ultra smooth and mellow with a balanced and fruity finish laced with excellent moderating acidity. Good to go now with grilled burgers and gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (957407) 13.5% alcohol
This is grassy and herbaceous on the zippy nose presaging a delectable wash of key lime pie interweaving with riper white peach and pear on the palate and persisting through the mouth-watering, refreshing aftertaste. Medium bodied with generous texture and good balance, it pours especially well with mesclun salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)


Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $21.95 12.6% alcohol 

This is unfettered ambrosia and value-laden, sourced from the best fruit of their best sites. Herbaceous, slate/mineral and citrus aromas waft easily from this medium-bodied beauty. Complex and structured with oodles of finesse, it washes over the palate with key lime, gooseberry and minerality on the palate and through the balanced, crisp and refreshing finish. My compliments, it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2011 

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95 (054353) 13.4% alcohol 

Giving proof to the winery name, small, rounded, vineyard stones reflect sunlight and heat enhancing the grape-ripening process. Aromas of spice, berry fruit and toasty notes provide segue for a light and lively wash of palate-bathing, red currant, pomegranate and red cherry. There’s great focus of flavour persisting through the dry, refreshing finish and a balanced, charming aftertaste. Pour with duck breast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

KWV Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2009
WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.5% alcohol
The winemaking and viticulture team at KWV, under Chief Winemaker Richard Rowe, are on an extended roll—‘clean, stylish and refreshing’ is a big part of their mantra and this certainly measures up. Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit and spice abound in this mid-weight, complex and well-integrated red. Rich, stylish flavours of tangy black currant and ripe mulberry mingle with peppery spice and a wisp of espresso roast. It finishes balanced, smooth and just plain mouth-watering delicious. Pick up a few for summer/fall barbeques. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

Domaines Schlumberger ‘Kessler’ Pinot Gris 2008
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $25.95 (249623) 13.0% alcohol
Off-dry and right on target, this delivers a mouth-filling, eye-popping tasting experience. Powerful aromas of apricot, spice and honeyed peach and pear open this medium-full bodied, generously textured gem. A gusher of ambrosia bathes the palate with tropical fruit, nectarine, apricot and grilled pineapple to the fore. It finishes long, clean and refreshing with moderating citrus acidity playing its role. Mouth watering and delectable, don’t pass it up. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Mallory & Benjamin Talmard Mâcon-Uchizy 011
AOC Mâcon-Uchizy $14.95 (733956) 13.0% alcohol
Apple compote, citrus and pit fruit aromas abound on the nose of this value-laden, beautifully balanced Chardonnay. It bathes the palate with tropical fruit, yellow peach and creamy smooth lemon chiffon pie interlaced with spice and oodles of charm. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a fairly lengthy, crisp refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)


Domaine Seguin Pouilly Fumé 2011
AOC Pouilly Fumé $23.95 (081414) 12.0% alcohol
An array of alluring aromas—tropical fruit, floral notes and lemongrass—introduce a river of tangy, lip-smacking flavour—passion fruit, gooseberry and grapefruit mingling with white nectarine and Granny Smith apple. It’s light-medium bodied with an abbreviated aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château les Vieux Ormes 2010
AOC Lalande de Pomerol $19.95 (321380) 13.5% alcohol
This tangy, racy, Merlot-predominant blend has a solid tannin underpinning and a streak of acidity throughout. Red berry and spice on the nose, this delivers sour cherry, blueberry and spice on the palate with good tension and focus. It’s mid weight with nice texture and juicy, refreshing aftertaste. Good to go after a three-hour aeration/decant and poured with pasta in tomato sauce or pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Château Moulin de Clott ‘Cuvée Dominique’ 2008
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux, Castillon $18.95 (325928) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of cedar, mixed field berry fruit and dark, juicy cherry presage a luscious wash of red and black currant, spice-laden black plum and a solid tannin underpinning. It’s medium bodied with loads of texture and a lengthy, balanced finish layering on espresso roast and moderating acidity for a tangy, dry aftertaste. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration decant and poured with grilled beefsteak, better opened 2015. (Vic Harradine)


Château Saint-Christoly 2009
AOC Médoc $19.95 (321265) 13.5% alcohol
A lighter-styled, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, it unleashes a solid core or ripe, red fruit—cherry, currant and raspberry—wreathed in lovely aromas of Asian spice, sweet vanilla and dark berry fruit. The flavours persist through the nicely balanced finish underpinned by perceptible tannin. Serve after a two-hour decant with gilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Christian Moueix Pomerol 2009
AOC Pomerol $29.95 (903013) 14.0% alcohol
This is balanced and beautiful with deftly integrated oak and a solid core of fruit throughout. Aromas of black plum, mixed, dark berry fruit and spice waft from this medium-weight, nicely textured, Merlot-predominant red blend. It washes in creamy smooth waves over the palate with ripe, black cherry and plum mingling with spice, espresso roast and dark chocolate. There’s complexity, balance and charm with no rough edges in sight. (Vic Harradine)


Jean-Ernest Descombes Morgon 2011
AOC Morgon, Beaujolais $17.95 (946186) 13.5% alcohol
Not a wine for heavy discussion, chill 20 minutes, pour and enjoy, either on its own or with a deli board—cheese, salami, olives, baguette. From one of the ten, unique, Crus of Beaujolais, this Gamay’s balanced and bursting with fresh, lively aromas and flavour. Plum, cherry, strawberry and raspberry rip from the nose blanketing the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and the finish is juicy, tangy and gulpable. (Vic Harradine)


Château Maris ‘La Touge’ Minervois La Livinière Syrah 2009
AOC Minervois La Livinière $19.95 (325084) 15.0% alcohol
This dishes up intense aromas and flavours bolstered by concentrated, dark berry fruit and oodles of herbs and spice. Local garrigue, dark berry fruit and piquant spice roll over the palate in waves garnished with excellent moderating acidity and a textured mouth feel. It’s medium-plus weight with a juicy, chewy finish of bramble berry and juicy, black, Bing cherry. Drinkable now, especially good with lamb biryani. (Vic Harradine)


Château Bizard Montagne de Raucoule 2010
AOC Grignan-les-Adhemar $20.95 (336131) 15.0% alcohol
This Syrah/Grenache blend jumps from the glass with lively aromas of gamy notes, pipe tobacco and berry fruit. It dishes up a solid core of ripe dark cherry/berry fruit interlaced with oodles of fennel, spice and savory herbs, Mid-full bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel, the concentrated finish—ripe bramble berry, espresso roast and chocolate-covered cherries—lingers, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

Famille Perrin Tavel Rosé 2012
AOC Tavel $19.95 (680801) 13.5% alcohol
One of the top Rosés tasted this spring; it opens with lifted aromas of spice, sprigs of savory herbs and field berry fruit. There’s good weight and considerable mouth feel as racy red currant, ripe strawberry and tangy sour cherry splash over the palate. It’s crisp and lip-smacking good on the dry finish. Perfect on its own with enough stamina and style to pour with roast chicken, a deli board or pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

Villa Tonino Grillo 2010
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (289579) 13.0% alcohol
Grillo, with ability to prosper in hot climates, has long been used in Sicily to make fortified Marsala, and rather recently, and increasingly, for table wine. This opens with an alluring nose of white flowers, nutty notes and tropical fruit. It bathes the palate with a lighter-bodied wash of key lime and pineapple mingling with notions of peach and pear. Nicely balanced, dry and refreshing, it’s a pleasing summer quaffer. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Lirica Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOP Primitivo di Manduria $17.95 (326710) 14.0% alcohol
A cedar, black berry and roasted herbs bouquet provide segue for ripe, sweet, palate bathing flavours of bramble berry and spice garnished with notions of tobacco and espresso roast. Good weight and mouth feel throughout, it’s bolstered by a supple tannin underpinning and moderating acidity on the long aftertaste. Good value and good to go now with grilled steak or burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $59.95 (378257) 14.5% alcohol
Mellow and fully flavoured, this offers a lovely bouquet of exotic spice, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit. Complex, layered and brushing with elegance, it spreads over the palate in plush, textured waves with spice-laden black currant and dark plum mingling with black licorice, mocha and wisps of sweet vanilla. It’s smooth as silk, mid-full weight with a lingering, luxuriant aftertaste underpinned by supple tannin. It has balance, structure and oodles of charm. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and, with careful cellaring, on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Poggio Il Castellare Rosso Di Montalcino 2010
DOC Rosso Di Montalcino $19.95 (330662) 13.5% alcohol
Dark chocolate, woodsy and gamy on the nose, this delivers racy, tangy flavours of sour cherry and red currant mingling with riper dark plum and savory herbs. It’s medium weight with oodles of nerve and verve throughout. The taut finish shows a tannic lick and oodles of acidity. Drink over the short term with pasta in tomato sauce or red pizza after a two-hour decant.


Donatoni Massenà ‘Appasimento’ 2010
IGT Ross Veneto $14.95 (332403) 14.5% alcohol
For my money, this is terrific value for a drink-me-now red—it’s nicely textured, balanced and bursting with fruit. Cherry and currant aromas on the nose, it coats the palate with a river of ripe, dark, bramble berry, fig and black plum compote mingling with kitchen spice and roasted herbs. Good weight and the balanced and beautiful aftertaste is icing on the cake—pick up a few for summer and fall barbecues. (Vic Harradine)


Monte Faustino Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2007
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $49.95 (327122) 16.0% alcohol
Few red-wine lovers can resist hi-octane, Amarone, a sip of this and you’ll know why. Aromas of fig, dried currant and plum mingle with toasty notes and Christmas cake spice. It’s complex, fully flavoured—dark briary berry, spice and herbs—with creamy-smooth texture, good weight and a lingering aftertaste of bramble berry and mocha. Often served after the meal with hard, aged cheese, it pours well with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)


Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $26.95 (980128) 15.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of roasted herbs, fennel and mocha mingle with cedar providing segue to beautifully sculpted flavours of red berry fruit, red cherry and cassis. This is more elegant than powerful with good balance between the tangy acidity, ripe fruit and dusting of perceptible, but acceptable, tannin. Poured perfectly with Stilton or other blue-veined cheese, spice or Christmas cake or bittersweet chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Quinta Do Roncão ‘Reserva’ 2011
DOC Douro $14.95 (147942) 14.0% alcohol
This over-delivers now and will only improve in bottle over the next 2-7 years; you wouldn’t go wrong in starting, or adding this to, a modest collection. Fashioned from premium Port grapes, this red blend sports alluring aromas and delicious flavours of sweet, ripe mulberry, dark, juicy cherry and tangy, black currant interwoven with good acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. A three-hour decant will soften the tannin, as will pouring with grilled, seasoned steak. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Baron de Magana 2009
DO Navarra $17.95 (280552) 14.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, gamy notes and piquant spice rip from the lively nose of this nicely balanced and juicy, tangy red blend. A solid core of dark, briary berry, black plum compote and red currant washes throughout wreathed in sweet vanilla, piquant spice and roasted herbs. It’s medium bodied with good sense of purpose and lively flavours with a juicy aftertaste garnished with earthy, mocha notes. Good to go now with spaghetti Bolognese or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)


Marqués de Murrieta ‘Finca Ygay Reserva’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (209148) 14.0% alcohol
The bouquet on this is a tapestry with cedar, leather, coconut and berry fruit amongst the threads. Waves of bramble berry, sweet mulberry and raisin roll over the palate melding with caramel and mixed spice. It’s smooth and mellow with medium body and nice texture and a lengthy aftertaste that blossoms in the glass—floral notes, berry fruit and red licorice. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Taja ‘Reserva’ 2009
DO Jumilla $15.95 (243329) 14.5% alcohol
One of Spain’s oldest DO appellations, Jumilla amazingly escaped phylloxera until late 1980s—until then, vines grew on ungrafted stock. A winecurrent perennial favourite, this opens with spice, herbs and bark berry fruit aromas heralding a persistent river of red currant and black briary berry with notions of dark coffee and fig. The lengthy aftertaste is juicy and lip-smacking good. Good with what you pull off your barbeque. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Italy $49.95 (650432) 375 mL $26.95 (35295) 14.5% alcohol
($5.00 off the 750 mL price shown, June 1 – 22, 2013)
This opens with an effusive bouquet of dark chocolate, prune and roasted herbs. It sprays over the palate with a delicious melding of lively sour cherry, red currant and ripe, mulberry interwoven with luscious notions of dried currant and truffles. Mid weight with a lengthy finish, it’s reminiscent of racy red cherry and juicy red plum on the aftertaste. This pours well with hard, aged cheese or coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Frescobaldi ‘Albizzia’ Chardonnay 2011
IGT Toscana, Italy $12.95 (266585) 12.5% alcohol
This is good value and versatile for sipping or pairing with seafood or chicken. Green apple and pear on the nose, this dishes up a pleasant river of creamy smooth fruit with citrus—lemon and lime—crisp green apple and apricot mingling with orange zest. It’s mid weight with a round, refreshing mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)


Garofoli ‘Classico Superiore’ Verdicchio 2011
DOC Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Italy $12.55 (277293) 13.0% alcohol
With 5 generations and 140-plus years of production behind them, Garofoli delivers. Licorice, mineral and exotic spice aromas presage a delightful wash of mineral/salinity garnished with pear, lime peel and grapefruit pith. It’s mid weight with a creamy texture and crisp, racy finish. Built for food—oysters Kirkpatrick, tuna sashimi or prawn ceviche pair well. (Vic Harradine)


Ironstone ‘Obsession’ Symphony 2011
California $14.70 (295931) 12.0 % alcohol
If you’ve not tried this, you must. Sexy aromas of rosewater, Turkish delight and musk rip from this gem of a wine. The Symphony grape was bred in 1981 by Dr. Olmo of UC Davis in California; Ironstone handles it beautifully. Flavours of spice, sweet tropical fruit and honeyed peach abound. It’s balanced with a long mouth-watering finish. Nothing sips better on its own or better matches spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Louis Jadot Chardonnay 2011
AOC Macon Villages, France $15.25 (164145) 12.5% alcohol
From Southern Burgundy, this smells and tastes of sunshine, or at least what sunshine brings—ripe fruit and flavourful wine. Aromas of ripe apple and pear introduce a nicely balanced wash of ripe orchard fruit and crisp, refreshing Meyer lemon—a lemon tasting riper and less acidic than others. Good weight and mouth feel with a mid-length finish add to the pleasure. There’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate ‘The Empress’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara River $12.95 (346791) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of lime and tropical fruit mingle with wisps of minerality on the nose. It splashes over the palate with a light-medium body and nice texture borne along with juicy pear and Granny Smith apple melding with lemony citrus and a hint of spice. Nicely balanced with a crisp, refreshing finish, this delivers good value. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara River $11.95 (111799) 12.0% alcohol
Honeyed pit fruit, lime and yellow peach skin aromas herald a delightfully nuanced wash of tangy lime and ripe, juicy white peach bathing the palate with delicacy and balance. It’s a light-on-its-feet Riesling that’ll have wide appeal as a summer sipper or served with pasta in creamy white sauce, grilled calamari rings or steamed clams or mussels. Very charming, lip-smacking and dare I say… yummy. (Vic Harradine)


Shingleback ‘Haycutters’ Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011
Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Australia $15.95 (207365) 12.0% alcohol
This is well paced, well priced and well… delicious. Lifted aromas of grassy, minerality mingle with honeyed orchard fruit and notions of tangy apple heralding a lively splash of racy, refreshing citrus, green apple and white peach on the palate. There’s good mouth feel, good weight and the finish is racy and lip-smacking good. Pour with all manner of fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard’ 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.1% alcohol
This is breath-taking and complex—fashioned by iconoclast winemaker and vigneron, Deborah Paskus. Toasty oak, caramel and orange zest aromas on the nose, it’s bold on the palate with layered, buttery smooth, apple, white peach and grilled pineapple melding with wisps of toast, nutmeg and tangy lemon curd. Unfiltered, full bodied and fully flavoured, the complex, lingering finish is stunning; it should improve in bottle. Order by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Closson Chase. (Vic Harradine)


Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard – South Clos’ 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of smoky-oaky notes, nutmeg and warm spice herald an intense wash of tangy blood orange and mineral-laced lemony citrus interweaving with peach yoghurt and wisps of sandalwood. It’s structured and full in the mouth with good weight, and length in the finish. There’s minerality and oak on the aftertaste along with notions of pit fruit. Good now, better after a further eighteen months in bottle. Order by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Closson Chase. (Vic Harradine)

Kacaba ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (326975) 13.0% alcohol
Winemaker, John Tummon, over-delivers here—Bravo. Tropical fruit, yellow peach and ripe, juicy pear aromas on the nose, this blankets the palate with a generously textured, creamy-smooth gusher of liquid sunshine—honeyed nectarine, apricot and racy lemon pie filling. It’s balanced and beautiful with good weight and a crisp, refreshing, mouth-watering aftertaste. This is versatile at the table—seafood, chicken, pork. Order by the case for daily home, office or licensee delivery from Kacaba. (Vic Harradine)


Kacaba ‘Rebecca Rosé’ 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (227025) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe and robust aromas of strawberry, cherry and notions of red berry jam abound. A wash of sweet cherry/berry flavour garnished with piquant spice and hints of ruby red grapefruit bathe the palate persisting through the tantalizingly sweet, lingering finish. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate ‘Fortune’ Cabernet Rosé 2012
VQA Niagara River $12.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of honey, strawberry and savory herbs provide segue to a balanced and flavourful wash of light-mid weight, nicely textured fruit. It bathes the palate with racy red currant, tangy cranberry and fresh strawberry, infusing the dry, tangy, mid-length finish. There’s plenty to like here and it’s versatile with food—white pizza, deli board or mesclun salad drizzled with verjus under crumbled chèvre all work well. Order by the case for daily home, office or licensee delivery from Reif. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan