March 11, 2013 Newsletter

California Wine Fair

The California Wine Fair visits 6 cities across Canada, venues are often sold out. Purchase tickets now; the admission price includes a tasting of all wines – slated for more than 100 wineries represented and over 430 wines to taste - plus light snacks. No tickets sold at the door.

• Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

You can purchase tickets online at www.calwine.ca now or have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Exceptional value wines – 5 wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; $13.95 to $17.95 - red, white and dessert, spread throughout the newsletter, earning the .
• Outside the box – Susan uncovers the obscure Uva di Troia grape from Puglia in this good-value, 4-star, $14.95 red found under Italy: Red Wine.
• 5-stars – very few wines attain this ranking, only 2 here—one after the other in the California Feature. Both Cab Sauv, a Mondavi Reserve and a Shafer One Point Five.
• Susan’s Selections – 2 French reds at $14.95 and $15.95 both earn the , one from Bordeaux, the other from the Rhône, both found under France: Red Wine
• Vic’s Picks – 2 über-premium wines found after the Main Release. A stunning 2010 JCR Chardonnay from Rosehall Run, a steal at $29.95, and the fabulous 2010 Equuleus red blend from Château des Charmes, tough to spit and a bargain at $40.00.

This newsletter begins with reviews from the March 16, 2013 Vintages Release followed by wines in various categories including: future releases in Upstream, New in the LCBO Portfolio, and New in Ontario Wineries who’ll ship wines by the case to your door—a total of 47 wines tasted, spat and reviewed in this newsletter.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: March 16, 2013

California Feature

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Calistoga, Napa Valley $58.95 (718452) 13.8% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of floral notes, dark berry fruit and mixed spice waft easily from this mid-weight, gorgeously textured, cellar dweller. It approaches elegance and brims with delectable flavour with cassis, blueberry and minty, dark cherry to the fore. It’s robust and concentrated with a lengthy aftertaste showcasing an excellent line of acidity all nicely balanced with abundant, dark, rich fruit underpinned by still-resolving tannin. Drink 2014 to early 2020s.


Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $57.95 (701748) 14.1% alcohol
Enjoy this fine example of the storied, award-winning wine made famous by the movie ‘Bottle Shock’. Lovely, intense aromas of white flowers, key lime and sun-ripe orchard fruit lift from the glass. Dry, full bodied, the wine has a lovely round, creamy texture and the fine harmony of well-integrated oak and subtle acidity. It finishes warm and fruity, the rich flavours tending to ripe pear, spiced peach and pineapple. (Susan Desjardins)


Belle Glos ‘Las Alturas Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County $44.95 (212076) 14.6% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, lilac and exotic spice on the nose, it washes over the palate with rich black currant, dark chocolate and ripe mulberry galore. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and tangy, juicy finish. The aftertaste layers on red cherry and plum interwoven with spice and notions of espresso roast. Good to go now and on to 2019 poured with lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)


Ravenswood ‘Big River’ Zinfandel 2008
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $44.95 (327205) 14.9% alcohol
Involved aromas of boysenberry, fennel and sweet, jammy, dark berry fruit provide segue for a delectable river of briary berry and spice box that bathes the palate in waves. It’s good weight with generous texture, balanced and beautiful. The finish seamlessly melds ripe tannin, good acidity and dark fruit into a lip-smacking aftertaste that’s underpinned with supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)


Ravenswood ‘Dickerson’ Zinfandel 2009
Napa Valley $39.95 (599183) 14.5% alcohol
There are earthy notes and allspice with red and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose. The palate’s dominated by tart, red berry and sour cherry interlaced with spice, a bouquet of flowers and sweet vanilla. It’s medium-plus weight with decent texture and loads of racy, lip-smacking red fruit on the dry, tangy finish. (Vic Harradine)


Duckhorn Merlot 2009 

Napa Valley $56.95 (992529) 14.5% alcohol 

Blended with a touch of Cabs, this is an intense, succulent red that layers elusive aromas of vanilla, herbs, earth and spice on red cherry, berry and plum. Dry, medium-full bodied, plush and velvety, the structure’s subtle while the spice-infused fruit is rich and ripe. Warm toasty notes grace the extended finish. Sip, savour and serve with grilled beef tenderloin or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)


Decoy Chardonnay 2011
Sonoma County $24.95 (311555) 13.8% alcohol
Floral aromas and flavours of stone fruit, spice and a touch of toasted nut mingle on the palate of this pale-gold wine. Dry, medium-full bodied, the core of spicy, ripe fruit is framed by crisp acidity and flows across the palate in a creamy wave. Enjoy this deftly balanced Chardonnay with herbed roast pork. (Susan Desjardins)


Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir 2010
Carneros, Napa Valley $34.95 (438697) 14.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of berry fruit, spiced rose, vanilla and cinnamon toast drift from the glass of this full-flavoured, Napa Pinot Noir. Dry, mid-full weight, it’s ample and round with lush, spiced cherry/berry flavours and warm notes of white pepper that persist through the long, opulent finish. A substantial wine that will pair with pork in a red wine sauce or duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)


Robert Mondavi ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $144.95 (670463) 15.5% alcohol
This behemoth of a California Cab is rich, concentrated and brimming with promise. Hi-toned aromas of mocha, anise, cassis and black cherry fill the air presaging a gusher of medium-full bodied, beautifully textured and nicely balanced flavour—black currant, minty dark cherry and cassis. It’s full bodied, structured and brimming with complexity and charm. It finishes lengthy with stunning red-fruit tang and a solid tannin base. Pop corks 2015 to early 2020s. (Vic Harradine)


Shafer ‘One Point Five’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $84.95 (045476) 15.3% alcohol
There’s good depth, structure and a touch of elegance in this full-bodied, nicely textured, iconic Stags Leap Cab. The lifted nose offers mocha, anise, vanilla and dark berry fruit. Palate-coating flavours wash in endless waves with kirsch liqueur, fennel and ripe mulberry fruit to the fore. The aftertaste is lengthy and luxurious dazzling the senses with cassis and dark cherry interwoven with briary berry and notions of rose petals. Drink now after a three-hour aeration/decant or pour 2014 – 2024. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

Dalva Colheita Port 1997
DOC Douro $27.95 (169045) 20.0% alcohol
This single-vintage, Tawny-styled gem is exquisite from the alluring nose to the stunningly delicious aftertaste. Spice cake, nutty notes and caramel aromas introduce this versatile beauty—pour with crème brulée, crème caramel, stinky cheese like Brie de Meaux, Époisses de Bourgogne or foie gras, liver pâté. It bathes the palate with sweet nuances of caramel, desiccated tropical fruit and Christmas cake spices. The aftertaste is gorgeous, lasting for minutes. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown’ Rare Old Brown Oloroso Non-Vintage

Jerez, Spain $13.95 (437467) 19.5% alcohol 

What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edges; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Cave de Hoen ‘Heimberger’ Brut Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non vintage
AOC Alsace $16.95 (168948) 12.5% alcohol
This dry, pale-salmon sparkler, made in the traditional method, displays a fine effervescence that persists on the palate. Delicate aromas and flavours of red field berries—cranberry, currant and raspberry—dominate, while lively acidity carries the flavours through a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A great wine for sipping or to be paired with salads, fish or white meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Creekside ‘Laura’s’ White 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (121764) 13.0% alcohol
A unique blend of 6 aromatic whites, the nose dishes up an array of aromas—pit fruit, floral notes, lychee and spice. It powers over the palate with lemongrass, racy citrus, a salad bowl of tropical fruit and piquant spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a long, balanced and beautiful finish that’s quite crisp and refreshing. Good to go now with roast chicken, pork or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (277483) 10.5% alcohol
Finely crafted, this is a clean, lively wine offering an attractive floral fragrance along with aromas of citrus, orchard fruit and mineral. Light-medium bodied, a touch of residual sugar is paired with clean, refreshing acidity. Great balance and lovely flavours of lemon-lime, ripe apple and mineral drive through the finish. Enjoy with pan-fried halibut or roast chicken or pork. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

Malivoire ‘Guilty Men’ Cabernet/Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (186247) 13.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, sprigs of herbs and Asian spice aromas herald a persistent, focused stream of racy red currant, ripe black currant and notions of underbrush and spice on the palate. It’s deftly balanced with good structure and oodles of charm. Mid weight and nicely textured, the aftertaste is tangy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)


Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Reserve - Red Assemblage’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (321893) 14.0% alcohol
High-toned aromas of ripe dark fruit, spiced rose and a touch of roasted red pepper lift from the glass of this blend of the Cabernets and Merlot. Dry, on the full side of medium bodied, it’s round, smooth, balanced and flavourful. Quite lush dark berry and plum flavours wash across the palate, supported by the subtle structure of well-integrated tannins and fine acidity. Notes of sweet baking spice and toasty oak garnish the fresh, round, fruity finish. Deftly crafted and an excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: Red Wine

Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (545012) 13.0% alcohol
Aged 9 months in French oak, this ruby-hued gem is well crafted and balanced, enticing with lovely aromas of ripe red fruits and overtones of exotic spice, dried herbs and earth. Dry, mid weight, it’s smooth and silky, framed by fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity, notes of white pepper and sweet spice garnishing cherry/berry flavours. An earthy nuance lingers on the clean dry finish. It’s a match for grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

Familia Mayol Malbec 2009
Luján de Cuyo $18.95 (301234) 15.0% alcohol
Dark fruit, menthol, spice and herbs mingle on the nose of this inky-purple wine. Dry, full bodied, it offers a core of ripe concentrated black fruit mingling with notes of baking spice, pepper and earth. Subtly structured with fine tannins and acidity, the wine delivers a harmonious package with a big, mouth-watering, fruity finish. An excellent value that will pair well with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Arlewood Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia $34.95 (313239) 14.5% alcohol
From one of Australia’s premium wine regions, this opens up with a lifted nose of mint, kitchen spice and dark berry fruit. It’s medium bodied, generously textured with concentrated, tangy flavours rolling in waves—black currant, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry interwoven with sprigs of savory herbs. It finishes dry and racy with still-evolving tannin to the fore. Drink 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)


Hewitson ‘Miss Harry’ 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (107870) 14.0% alcohol
A quiet nose of allspice, licorice and mint-infused currants presages a medium-weight, nicely textured wash—tangy, red cherry and red currant nicely balanced with riper, dark berry fruit. It’s ready to drink with a juicy, tangy aftertaste that’s dry and embedded with mixed spice and blueberry-raspberry fruit. Pour with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Mitolo ‘G.A.M.’ Shiraz 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $44.95 (596031) 14.5% alcohol
Impressive aromas of espresso roast, cassis and spice box swirl from this mid-full bodied, gorgeously textured red. A huge mouthful of concentrated, fruit-laden flavours coat the palate with ripe mulberry, dark cherry and ripe, sweet briary berry flavours. It finishes in a balanced blaze layering on savory herbs, moderating acidity, fine-grained tannin and plenty of fruit. (Vic Harradine)


Skillogalee ‘Basket Pressed’ Shiraz 2008
Clare Valley, South Australia $26.95 (165753) 14.9% alcohol
This is richly aromatic with toasty oak, menthol and cloves mingling with sweet vanilla. Robust flavours coat the palate with bramble berry, kirsch liqueur and spiced black plum to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel, balanced and nicely structured. The finish goes on forever with ripe fruit, dark chocolate and oodles of charm. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2020—a top drop from a wonderful producer and a premium wine region (Vic Harradine)


Wits End ‘Luna’ Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (311258) 14.0% alcohol
Involved aromas of black licorice, black pepper, cola and black plum herald a mid-weight, nicely textured wash of dried currants, tangy red cherry and spice-laden dark berry fruit. The straightforward and nicely balanced aftertaste is garnished with blueberry and piquant spice. Pour alongside coq au vin or roast chicken rubbed in savory herbs. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

C.J. Pask ‘Gimblett Road’ Merlot 2008
Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay $18.95 (9134) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-opaque ruby, this finely crafted Merlot offers smoky, earthy aromas over spiced red fruits. Dry, medium bodied, it nicely balances lovely fresh plum and cherry flavours with fine-grained tannins and clean acidity. Notes of mineral and toast persist on the clean, flavourful finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

Loimer Grüner Veltliner 2011
DAC Kamptal $19.95 (142240) 12.5% alcohol
Grüner Veltliner is becoming much more main stream and this wine is a dandy. Aromas of ripe peach, green apple mingling with notions of mineral/slate on the nose, it streaks across the palate with nerve and verve—lemon citrus, mineral notes, succulent white peach and crisp Granny Smith apple. Medium bodied, sleek and racy, it finishes in a blaze—crisp, refreshing and lip smacking. Those who enjoy cool-climate whites—Riesling, unoaked Chardonnay, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc—should latch on to this. (Vic Harradine)


Stadt Krems ‘Steinterrassen’ Riesling 2011
DAC Kremstal $16.95 (70987) 13.0% alcohol
Pale straw, this is a silky dry Riesling with lifted aromas of peach, lemon/lime, white flowers and wet slate. Vivacious with a keen, tangy acidity, it’s medium bodied and flavourful, offering lively citrus and lasting mineral notes through the clean, crisp finish. Enjoy with trout braised in a lemon and white wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Hauchat 2010
AOC Fronsac $14.95 (123489) 13.5% alcohol
This fragrant, dry, medium-full bodied, Merlot-dominated wine is a gem. There’s complexity on the nose—red and black fruit, spice, vanilla and mineral. On the palate, there’s a fine marriage of firm tannins, plum and cherry/berry fruit and fresh acidity, while lovely spicy notes and nuances of mineral and toast carry through the dry finish. A few bottles are in order for meals featuring robust red meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Château de la Dauphine 2009
AOC Fronsac $29.85 (209742) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of incense, smoky notes, leather and vanilla billow from this nicely structured and balanced, Merlot-dominant, red blend. It dishes up medium-full bodied, generously textured waves of black currant, black plum and spice box on the palate wreathed in good moderating acidity and a supple tannin underpinning. It finishes lengthy, fruit-laden and delicious. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Pierre Henri Morel ‘Signargues’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (277038) 14.0% alcohol
Principally Syrah and Grenache, the notes of black fruit, earth, garrigue and Chinese tea create a fragrant, alluring scent. Dry, medium-full bodied, the satiny texture demands another sip, or two. Velvety tannins and fine acidity support a rich core of ripe cherry/berry fruit with nuances of sweet spice, white pepper and earth adding complexity. To tantalize further, there’s a touch of dark chocolate on the rich, lasting finish—great flavour here. (Susan Desjardins)


Domaine du Bouscat ‘Caduce’ 2009
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $16.85 (191411) 13.0% alcohol
Spiced black plum, cassis and ripe, black cherry aromas provide segue for a rich, luscious and textured stream of kirsch liqueur, cherry clafoutie and sweet, ripe mulberry interwoven with earthy tones and anise on the palate persisting through the balanced, lengthy aftertaste. It’s nicely built with enough oomph to give life now to 2018. Pair with grilled back ribs brushed with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Pascal Marchand Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2009
AOC Bourgogne $21.95 (285601) 13.0% alcohol
This is a refined, dry Pinot Noir from the partnership established between Moray Tawse of Niagara and Pascal Marchand of Burgundy. Nuances of earth, spice and dried herbs overlay subtle aromas of red fruit. That lively bright red fruit—cherry, raspberry and currant—dances across the palate riding a spine of lively acidity through the clean finish. A finely crafted, value red. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Balthasar Ress ‘Hattenheimer Schützenhaus’ Riesling Kabinett 2011
Rheingau $17.95 (735241) 10.0% alcohol
Straw/green, this is a fabulous Riesling displaying subtle, complex aromas and flavours of mineral, citrus, stone fruit and herb. It’s produced on southwest-facing slopes protected from cold winds in deep soils that retain moisture in the dry seasons. Dry, a touch spritzy, the fruit and herb notes are framed by fine acidity and underling minerality. Finishing long and clean, the wine has lovely texture and the bones for extended cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

La Valentina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $14.95 (026179) 13.5% alcohol
A quiet nose of cherry/berry fruit and spice introduce this savory, tangy red. Sour cherry, pomegranate and cranberry flavours are carried along on a spirited line of acidity. It’s mid weight with good acidity throughout. It finishes in a blaze of red berry fruit and racy tang interlaced with notions of kitchen spice and savory herbs. Good to go now with meat-laden pizza and pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Nuova Cappelletta Barbera del Monferrato 2010
DOC Barbera del Monferrato $16.95 (719518) 14.0% alcohol
This is a reliably good producer known for its commitment to biodynamic agriculture. The wine doesn’t disappoint with its lovely floral aromas, red fruits, spice and a touch of vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, sweet spice and vanilla replay, combining with flavours of red berries and kirsch. The wine is subtly, yet firmly, structured and beautifully balanced, offering a touch of warmth on a long mouth-watering finish. A great choice for mushroom arrosto with roast pork. (Susan Desjardins)


Torre Quarto ‘Bottaccia’ Uva di Troia 2009
IGT Puglia $14.95 (161737) 13.5% alcohol
Produced from a little-known grape variety from Italy’s southern appellations, this is a fine example of Uva di Troia. Red fruits, fresh floral notes and subtle spice tease the nose while the palate is brimming with lively cherry and plum fruit showing overtones of sweet spice. Dry and medium bodied, it’s well structured, refined and silky in texture with a long, dry, fruity finish. A good value that’s hard to resist. (Susan Desjardins)


Vicchiomaggio ‘Agostino Petri’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 

DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (993360) 14.0% alcohol 

Minerally, spice box and underbrush on the nose, this dishes up oodles of flavour with black currant, racy red cherry and plummy tones interlaced with nuances of mushroom and mocha. It’s mid weight and nicely textured showing great overall balance and a sense of place and purpose. The finish is dry, framed by moderating acidity, underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours serving with rare-grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Miguel Torres ‘Mas Borràs’ Pinot Noir 2009
DO Penedès $34.95 (673483) 14.0% alcohol
Gamy notes, tar and wood smoke aromas spill from this racy, slimmed-down Pinot. It’s mid weight with decent texture and a boatload of racy, tangy red fruit—currant and cherry—garnished with sprigs of savory herbs. It finishes, dry, mid length and lip-smacking wreathed in still-resolving tannin. Aerate/decant for 2 hours pouring with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Ontañón ‘Reserva’ 2004 

DOCa Rioja $24.95 (725895) 13.0% alcohol 

This red blend—95% Tempranillo with the balance Graciano—dishes out an astounding mouthful of fruit flavour with sweet black raspberry and spiced black plum predominant. It’s beautifully textured, medium bodied and showcases a well-sculpted, well-balanced lingering finish delivering ripe supple tannin and moderating mouth-watering tanginess mingling with milk chocolate-dipped cherries. There’s considerable tannin, portending a drinking window now to 2016. Pour alongside a thick hunk of rib eye steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)


Valdemar ‘Inspiración Valdemar’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (166512) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, involved aromas dominate the nose—sandalwood, leather, vanilla and floral notes mingling with red and black fruit. A stream of sweet and tang streaks across the palate and aftertaste with racy red currant and cranberry juxtaposed with ripe black cherry and ripe mulberry. It finishes, mid-length, nicely balanced and looking for a dance partner; pair it with osso bucco or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: April 13, 2013

Château des Charmes ‘Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard – Equuleus’ 2010 

VQA St. David’s Bench $40.00 (319525) 14.0% alcohol 

This über-premium red blend—50% Cab Sauv, 25% Cab Franc, 25% Merlot—is produced only in top vintages and was hard to spit. Rich, dark berry fruit, cherry cola, chicory and dusty earthiness on the nose, it coats the palate with rich, robust flavours—cassis, briary berry and black, juicy cherry interlaced with spice, fennel and sweet vanilla underpinned by still-resolving tannin. It’s structured with good complexity, the aftertaste lingers with minerality and excellent acidity. Pour after a three-hour aeration/decant or be rewarded for patience with 5-star wine; pop corks 2015-2022. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Aligoté 2011
VQA St. David’s Bench $13.95 (296848) 13.0% alcohol
Almost transparent, this wine’s produced from a little-known grape variety grown principally in Burgundy and Eastern Europe, pioneered in Niagara by Château des Charmes founder, Paul Bosc Sr. Clean and crisp, it offers lovely aromas of white flowers, pear, citrus and mineral. Dry, light-mid weight with a subtle pithy edge, the texture is tangy yet silky, the refreshing citrus flavours dancing across the palate on a backbone of finely honed acidity. A refreshing sipper on its own or with light fare, it’s good value. (Susan Desjardins)


Faustino VII Tempranillo 2010
DOCa Rioja, Spain (315234) $12.65 13.0% alcohol
Rich aromas of spice, dark berry fruit and black cherry mingle amongst wisps of vanilla. It’s beautifully balanced with red cherry and bramble berry flavours spilling over the palate with mid weight and good mouth feel. There’s lovely fruit flavour, moderating acidity and enough oomph to allow it to pair well with what you pull off your barbecue. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)


Pepperwood Grove ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
California $13.85 (308163) 14.0% alcohol
Spice cake and bramble berry pie aromas herald a spirited river of mocha, incense-laden dark raisins and racy red berry fruit. It’s well put together with delicious cherry and berry fruit garnished with exotic spice and wisps of black plum compote on a medium-bodied, nicely textured frame. Good to go now with all manner of grilled red meat, the aftertaste brims with balance and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)


Bodegas Portia ‘Ebreia Roble’ 2011
Ribera del Duero, Spain $14.95 (307710) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, tarry notes and incense on the nose, it washes over the palate in sweet, rich waves of cherry, blueberry and tangy red currant. It’s medium bodied and silky smooth with a lingering aftertaste of racy red berry fruit and a supple tannin underpinning, all nicely balanced and lip smacking. Pours well with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Rosehall Run ‘JCR’ Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 12.7% alcohol
Exquisite aromas of toasty oak, honeyed pit fruit and beeswax herald a structured, balanced and charming PEC Chardonnay. It’s mid-weight and gorgeously textured sporting a wash of crisp, green apple and ripe pear interwoven with tangy citrus and notions of tropical fruit and minerality. It finishes crisp and refreshing with complexity, deft balance and charm along with delectable flavour wrapped in oaky tones. Great now, it should knit together and blossom to 5-stars 2014 to 2019—this is quite special and worth picking up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Rosehall Run ‘Rosehall Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010 

VQA Prince Edward County $39.00 12.5% alcohol
Incense, aromatic bitters and ripe, red berry fruit aromas abound on the nose of this racy, unfined, unfiltered Pinot. There’s a persistent, focused stream of lively red currant, sour cherry and spiced red plum on the palate broadening out to warmer, sweeter berry fruit on the tangy, lip-smacking finish. There are oodles of savory herb and oaky notes—16 months in French oak with 2/3rds new—garnishing the lingering aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours or open 2014 to 2019 pouring with boeuf bourguignon. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan