February 28, 2013 Newsletter

California Wine Fair

The California Wine Fair visits 6 cities across Canada, venues are often sold out. Purchase tickets now; the $70. admission includes a tasting of all wines – usually more than 100 wineries represented and over 400 wines to taste - plus light snacks. No tickets sold at the door.

• Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
• Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
• Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
• Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
• Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
• Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

You can purchase tickets online at www.calwine.ca now or have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).


Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Exceptional value wines – few wines meet the strict price/quality criteria; a real bonanza here with eleven wines, spread throughout the newsletter, earning the .
• Outside the box – Susan uncovered Enotria ‘Cirò’ Rosso Classico, 4 stars at only $13.95 made from the Gaglioppo grape, found in the Central and Southern Italy Feature
• 5-stars – very few wines attain this ranking, only one here—a Tawse Gamay, their first crack at this varietal, at only $18.95 and found in the main release.
• Finding Waldo – made exclusively from Port grapes from DOC Douro, this red table wine earned 4½ stars, at only $16.95; the one after earned 4 stars for only $14.95.

This newsletter begins with reviews from the March 2, 2013 Vintages Release followed by wines in various categories including: future releases in Upstream, New in Vintages, New in the LCBO Portfolio, and New in Ontario Wineries who’ll ship wines by the case to your door—over 60 wines reviewed in this newsletter.


You can access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.

Vintages Release: March 2, 2013

California Wine Feature

Eberle ‘Mill Road Vineyard’ Viognier 2011
Paso Robles $29.95 (313478) 15.1% alcohol
Showcasing lifted floral, stone fruit and sweet citrus aromas, this is a substantial wine, round, rich, almost oily in texture. Dry and soft in acidity, there’s a core of luscious, stone-fruit preserves garnished with hints of spice and white pepper. The warmth builds on the palate and lingers on the full finish. Serve with roast pork loin or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)


Thomas Fogarty Gewürztraminer 2010
Monterey County $19.95 (66878) 14.4% alcohol
Just off-dry, rich, luscious and flavourful, this is a big Gewürz offering an amazing medley of high-toned aromas—rosewater, lush tropical notes, lychee, sweet citrus and honeysuckle. The texture is smooth and round, the fresh acidity providing balance to honeyed flavours of preserved fruits that linger on the spicy finish. Enjoy with lightly spiced Asian foods. (Susan Desjardins)


Chalone ‘Estate Grown’ Chardonnay 2010
Chalone AVA, Monterey County, Central Coast $29.95 (080226) 14.5% alcohol
Vanilla, peach and ripe yellow plum aromas waft easily from this medium-bodied, generously textured California Chard. There’s a generous wash of ripe tropical fruit and tangy citrus bolstered by ripe grapefruit on the palate and long, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s all nicely balanced finishing crisp and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)


Justin Syrah 2010
Paso Robles $36.95 (684290) 15.5% alcohol
If you cast bait in these rarified waters, you won’t want to pass this up. Dark chocolate, mixed spice and cherry cola stream from the lifted nose. There’s a broad beam of delectable flavour coating the palate with briary berry, kirsch liqueur and spice-infused ripe mulberry to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with gorgeous mouth feel and a lengthy finish awash in more fruit-forward flavour nicely balanced with good tang and loads of charm. (Vic Harradine)


Vina Robles ‘White’ 4 2010
Paso Robles $18.95 (313460) 14.2% alcohol
This assemblage of Viognier, Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino offers great complexity and style. It’s perfumed and aromatic, displaying floral notes, passion fruit, citrus, mango and stone fruit. Dry, medium bodied, creamy and rich in texture yet lively on the palate, the harmony of the fruit flavours replays and amplifies through the crisp finish. Lovely integration, balance, flavour and texture. Enjoy as a sipper or with light fare. (Susan Desjardins)


Liberty School Syrah 2010
California $18.95 (942383) 13.5% alcohol
The inky hue presages the concentration and heft of this wine. Smoky, meaty aromas mingle with intense dark fruit, licorice, spice and pepper. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine offers great balance, a velvet-like texture and concentrated flavours of black fruits, white pepper and toasty oak from the first sip through the dry, fruity finish. Enjoy with hearty braised or barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Beringer ‘Steinhauer Ranch Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Howell Mountain, Napa Valley $69.95 (313551) 14.5% alcohol
A delicate nose of spice, black pepper and dark berry fruit provides segue for a surprisingly balanced—given the firm tannins—rather elegant, stream of spiced, black plum and black currant and cassis interwoven with fennel and notions of mocha. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture, still wrapped in a firm tannin structure. A three-hour aeration/decant and poured with grilled red meat with a sprinkle of salt helps, but better 2017 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)


Frog’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $56.95 (932400) 13.9% alcohol
This is a powerful, complex cellar-worthy wine, inky purple and enticing with its layers of aromas and flavours—hints of menthol, lavender, dried herbs, cedar, cassis, black cherry and smoke. Dry, full bodied, firmly structured, it displays a clean tangy texture and a concentrated core of full-flavoured fruit. Finishing dry and long, it’s your wine of choice for rare red meats. (Susan Desjardins)


Bonterra Pinot Noir 2010
Mendocino County $19.95 (317685) 14.1% alcohol
Here’s another great example of the flavourful organic wines Bonterra has been producing for years. Enticing aromas of red cherry/berry fruit, sweet spice and a touch of toast rise from the glass. Dry, silky, the luscious core of ripe fruit mingles with notes of milk-chocolate-coated cherries and vanilla, the sweet spice and toast replaying. A very approachable wine, balanced and flavourful, it has the heft to pair with roast beef tenderloin with root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Central and Southern Italy Feature

Lucchetti ‘Lacrima di Morro d’Alba’ 2011
AOC Lacrima di Morro d’Alba $17.95 (310094) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, raisiny, briary berry aromas intro a rich and luscious river of juicy, dark cherry, dark berry fruit and sweet, ripe mulberry washing over the palate in waves. It’s mid-weight with good balance and a smooth and mellow mouth feel. It finishes lengthy, fruit-driven and full of charm. This drink-me-now red offers good value and the perfect pairing to all manner of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)


Aldiano Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ‘Riserva’ 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $17.95 (61706) 14.0% alcohol
Inky, opaque and intensely aromatic, this is a stunning wine. Notes of plum, blueberry, pipe tobacco and vanilla tease the nose. On the palate, it’s dry, velvety, mid-full weight and rich in dark fruit that’s framed by fine-grained tannins. There’s a freshness complementing the ripe fruit, while notes of espresso bean and a hint of earth linger on the finish. Serve with meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)


Selvanova ‘Vigna Antica’ Aglianico 2009
IGP Terre del Volturno $15.95 (313494) 14.0% alcohol
The clean, ripe, fruit flavours of this ‘noble’ Italian grape variety shine through in this unoaked red. Dry, mid-weight, chewy tannins and fresh acidity underpin cherry/berry fruit with a touch of mineral and earth. Finishing long and dry, it’s a good match for grilled lamb chops. (Susan Desjardins)


Enotria ‘Cirò’ Rosso Classico 2010
DOC Cirò $13.95 (313940) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from the local grape, Gaglioppo, this semi-transparent red charms with subtle aromas of berries, cherries, cedar, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium bodied, it’s crisp and fresh with subtle tannins supporting lively red fruit flavours. Nuances of spice and earth persist on the finish. Fine and refined—an excellent value. (Susan Desjardins)


Fina Taif Zibibbo 2011
IGP Sicilia $16.95 (310102) 13.0% alcohol
Yellow gold in hue, there are intense aromas here—grape, marzipan, stone fruit and hints of pineapple. Dry, refreshing and lively, the wine offers a fresh texture and tasty flavours of apricot, peach and grape. It finishes clean and fruity. (Susan Desjardins)


Terrelíade ‘Nirà’ Nero d’Avola 2010
IGT Sicilia $17.95 (120980) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby-violet, this classic variety of Sicily offers concentrated aromas and flavours of black fruit, along with notes of spice, coffee and earth. Dry, medium-full bodied, perceptible tannins frame the rich ripe fruit, while spicy peppery notes create a notion of warmth as notes of mocha and toast develop through the finish. A good match for rare red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Domaine Allimant-Laugner ‘Brut’ Crémant d’Alsace 

AOC Alsace $17.95 (30593) 12.5% alcohol 

A pretty straw hue, this lively engaging blend of Auxerrois and Riesling offers a trace of yeast and fresh fruity aromas of pear and citrus. The mousse is fine and refreshing, the fruit replaying on the palate and extending through a clean tangy finish. This is a great aperitif wine. (Susan Desjardins)


Ca’ dei Mandorli Moscato d’Asti dei Giari 2011 

DOCG Moscato d’Asti, Italy $15.95 (179259) 5.0% alcohol 

Lovely light herbal notes, aromas of ripe grapes and honeyed stone fruit entice. Off-dry, light bodied, this is a delightful wine with a fine, frothy effervescence and flavours of honeydew melon and lime-tinged stone fruit. Nicely balanced, it’s flavourful and sweetly fruity to the finish. Enjoy as dessert or with fruit flan, lemon chiffon pie or a white chocolate tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

Fielding Viognier 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (142323) 13.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle, peach and nectarine meld with kitchen spice aromas on the nose of this light-on-its-feet, well-balanced gem. Tropical fruit and white peach interweave with lemon citrus on the palate persisting through the mid-length, crisp, refreshing aftertastes. Sip on its own or alongside lighter appetizers or lightly seasoned chicken or veal. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (591305) 12.5% alcohol
Pale-straw hued, it’s enticingly fragrant—there’s a floral note, along with aromas and flavours of mineral, stone and orchard fruit. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is tangy, the fruity juicy, the finish clean and lively with overtones of tangerine and lime. A clean, fresh Gris with lots of personality and verve, it’s tasty on its own or will match with roast chicken, turkey or ham. (Susan Desjardins)


Southbrook Vineyards ‘Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (172338) 13.4% alcohol
Vanilla, wisps of oak and mixed spice—including nutmeg—on the nose, there are hi-toned flavours of ripe apple, melon and juicy, sweet pear coating the palate interwoven with good moderating acidity—lemon zest and ripe pineapple. It’s medium-full bodied with oodles of mouth feel and a toasty, long, lip-smacking aftertaste that’s crisp and clean. Give it a go with pan-seared scallops under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)


Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery ‘Loved by Lou’ Riesling 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (322636) 11.1% alcohol 

This off-dry, crowd-pleaser has an aromatic outburst of alluring aromas with tropical fruit, floral and peel marmalade among them. There’s a mélange of flavours with lemon chiffon pie and crisp, green apple mingling with ripe melon and pit fruit. It finishes in a blaze, mouth-watering, balanced and fruit-filled—ripe sweet orchard fruit mingling with clean, tangy citrus and minerality. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

Kacaba ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008 

VQA Niagara Escarpment $22.95 (058586) 12.2% alcohol 

Savory herbs, toasty oak and spice-laden, heady notes of dark field berry dominate the nose. It’s racy and tangy on the palate with a focused stream of red currant, sour cherry and beetroot interwoven with blueberry and red plum. Mid weight with balance and good sense of purpose, flavours replay on the lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with grilled, cedar-planked salmon. (Vic Harradine)


Konzelmann Heritage 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (149179) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a finely crafted assemblage of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot offering alluring aromas of fully ripened red and black fruits, baking spice, pepper and a whiff of smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied, the texture is velvety, the tangy flavours of black cherry, cassis and raspberry mingling with notes of spice, dried herbs and toasty oak. Soft ripe tannins and fresh acidity underpin the ripe fruit, lending fullness to a persistent warm finish graced with notes of spice and pepper. Pair with rare roast beef. It’s sold out at the winery; don’t miss this opportunity! (Susan Desjardins)


Malivoire ‘Stouck’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 (321836) 14.0% alcohol
This is rich, luscious and oozes with charm, structure and flavour. Aromas of rich, dark chocolate, sweet vanilla and black briary berry abound. It swarms over the palate with black currant, cassis and boysenberry jam interlaced with vanilla, cola and hints of graphite. Mid-full weight with oodles of mouth feel and good complexity, the dazzling aftertaste is lengthy and lip-smacking delicious. Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Tawse Winery Gamay Noir 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (322545) 12.0% alcohol 

Exotic spice, black pepper and über-fragrant, ripe, red fruit herald a juicy, well-structured river of delectable, ripe mulberry and spice-laden, briary berry streaking across the palate adorned with complexity and charm. It’s medium weight and balanced with good mouth feel and a juicy, tangy aftertaste warm with piquant spice, wisps of supple tannin, fruit-laden and absolutely charming. It’s a very special, top-drawer Gamay. (Vic Harradine)


Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 14.0% alcohol 

A blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot fermented and aged separately an average of 16 months in oak barrels. Roasted herbs, dark chocolate and anise on the nose, this washes in fully textured waves over the palate with bright red cherry, sweet mulberry and a smidgen of black pepper. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced throughout with a lingering aftertaste of briary berry and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2011
California $19.95 (369686) 13.5% alcohol
Honeyed, tropical fruit, vanilla and mixed spice box aromas herald a gorgeous, tangy wash of apple, tangy citrus and tropical fruit wreathed in lemongrass and spice washing over the palate, infusing the long aftertaste. It’s good weight and good value with generous texture and a lingering, crisp, refreshing finish. Pour with roast chicken or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Ridge ‘Lytton Springs’ 2010
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $48.95 (982413) 14.4% alcohol
Piquant spice, bramble berry and earthy tones on the nose presage a red blend—67% Zin, 23% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignan, 3% Mourvèdre—that’s deftly balanced, structured and refined. Mid weight with good mouth feel, a wash of boysenberry jam and tangy red cherry mingle with spice and notions of licorice and fennel. The long finish introduces wisps of acceptable, fine grained tannin and excellent moderating acidity. Zin lovers take note; there’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Doña Paula ‘Estate’ Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.95 (661819) 14.0% alcohol
Smoky notes, Asian spice and leather aromas provide entry to this fruit-forward Malbec. Black currant and dark, Bing cherry interweave with licorice and minty notes on the medium-bodied, nicely textured palate. It’s underpinned with still-resolving tannin and framed by good moderating acidity. A three-hour aeration/decant will help tame this for now, but better popping the cork 2014-2017. (Vic Harradine)


Nieto Senetiner ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec/Petit Verdot 2010
Mendoza $17.95 (295170) 14.5% alcohol
The dense, inky colour presages the concentrated character of this dry, medium-full bodied red blend. Black fruits dominate on the nose and palate, embellished with notes of oak, vanilla and an elusive earthy quality. There’s a hint of chocolate as well as a tug of grippy tannins on the finish. Pair with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Tabalí ‘Reserva Especial’ 2009
Limari Valley $22.95 (107540) 14.0% alcohol
Juicy, concentrated, fruit-laden and robust, this Syrah-predominant, red blend dishes up aromas of exotic spice, gamy notes and toasty oak. Red and black currant, cassis and kirsch liqueur coat the palate interweaving with cola and graphite. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a generous finish of dark, spice-infused cherry. There’s good value and a perfect pairing with grilled strip loin or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘E Minor’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley $18.95 (295907) 14.5% alcohol
Classic Shiraz from a reputable and reliable producer equals great wine! Savour the high-toned aromas of black berry, kirsch, smoke, crushed pepper and sweet spice. Dry, full bodied, it offers a rush of intense, concentrated dark fruit and black pepper, along with a subtle earthy quality and notes of char. This is a big, powerful, well-balanced Shiraz that’s well structured with a lasting fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)


Mollydooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2010
South Australia $29.95 (246595) 16.0% alcohol
Hi-toned and hi-octane, it’s rich, robust and concentrated, not for the faint of heart. Aromas and flavours abound with red and black currant, spice-infused black plum, sweet, ripe mulberry and bramble berry jam among them. It’s medium-full bodied with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a lingering finish that replays the fruit adding a layer of dark chocolate and black licorice underpinned by supple tannin. Good to go now with a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

Fairhall Downs ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough $18.95 (990580) 13.0% alcohol
Straw green, this is a pleasing classic Sauvignon Blanc offering aromas of gooseberry, green pear, passion fruit and pear. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is clean and tangy, the lively fruit and herbal notes matched to a keen citrus acidity. Nicely balanced, it delivers a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. Enjoy with goat cheese pizza. (Susan Desjardins)


Terravin ‘Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough $29.95 (247205) 13.5% alcohol 

Partially fermented in seasoned oak, this is a dry, crisp fruity wine with lovely aromas of gooseberry, fresh-rubbed herbs, tangy citrus and exotic tropical fruit. Dry and medium bodied, it offers a wonderful, fresh, round texture, some underlying mineral notes and a zesty, slightly pithy, citrus finish. Enjoy with fresh-water fish and creamy lemon sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Jean Geiler ‘Médaillé’ Pinot Blanc 2011
AOC Alsace $14.95 (315101) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely complexity on the nose—floral, pear, mineral and restrained herbal notes—is followed by a generous core of rich, ripe silky flavours—stone fruit, lime and melon to the fore. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is a harmonious marriage of elegant fresh texture and lush ripe fruit, offering a touch of warmth on a long, fruity finish. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy with simply prepared roast chicken or pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

Château Moulin de La Roquille ‘Cuvée Spéciale l’Espérance’ 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux $19.95 (307249) 14.0% alcohol
This award-winning blend (principally Merlot with the Cabernets) captures your attention with high-toned aromas of sweet fruit, spice, cedar and underbrush. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm structure frames a core of rich, ripe dark fruit—plum and berry—with spice, herbs and a touch of vanilla adding complexity. There’s a peppery warmth on the dry, fruity finish. Pour with meatballs in a mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)


La Coterie ‘Séguret’ 2009 

AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $16.95 (219428) 14.0% alcohol 

There are loads of savory ‘garrigue’ and mixed field berry on the nose before delivering a steady stream of tangy flavour throughout. It’s medium-bodied with a racy, juicy stream of red grapefruit, sour cherry and cranberry on the palate and lip-smacking, dry aftertaste underpinned by perceptible tannin. It shifts into high gear poured alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in spicy tomato-meat sauce. (Vic Harradine)


La Ferme du Mont ‘Vendange’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $42.95 (309245) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this classic blend is principally Grenache complemented with Syrah and Mourvèdre. Complex, captivating, and cellar-worthy, it beguiles with aromas of rich, almost candied, cherry/berry fruit and notions of sweet herbs, smoke, cedar and earth. Dry, full bodied, there’s a mouth-filling core of ripe berry fruit, nuances of well-integrated oak and touches of licorice and sweet spice. Harmonious and well balanced, there’s a touch of warmth on the extended finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Casale Dello Sparviero ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (317313) 14.0% alcohol
Tarry and gamy with exotic spice and earthy notes on the nose, it delivers a medium-bodied, nicely textured broad beam of racy, tangy flavour—red currant and sour cherry—interwoven with darker, sweeter berry fruit—black currant and mulberry. It’s balanced and beautiful on the palate and long finish where it brims with fruit, moderating acidity and earthy tones. Pour now to 2018 alongside pasta puttanesca—very good value. (Vic Harradine)


Cecchi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
DOC Montepulciano $19.95 (123588) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 24 months in oak, this Sangiovese showcases aromas of red fruits, cedar, leather and spiced vanilla. Dry, mid-full weight, it offers lovely balance and integration. It’s fresh on the palate—fine tannins supporting ripe, lively red fruits—with a touch of pepper weaving through the clean, dry finish. Enjoy with meat-based pasta or aged, hard cheese. (Susan Desjardins)


San Giorgio ‘Ugolforte’ Brunello di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $47.95 (212431) 14.5% alcohol
Lavender, dark berry fruit and truffle aromas presage a balanced stream of tang and bright red fruit—currant and cherry—mingling with strawberry jam and notions of cassis. Mid weight with a smooth and mellow texture, the lingering aftertaste layers on supple tannin along with spice box and notes of black plum. Good to go now and over the next decade. (Vic Harradine)


Ca’Del Monte Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Valpolicella Classico $41.95 (314401) 16.0% alcohol
Smoky notes, exotic spice and fennel herald a crowd-pleasing Amarone offering good value and delicious imbibing. Luscious and rich on the palate and lengthy finish, there’s a river of red cherry, blueberry and sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with black licorice and kitchen spice. It’s good weight, well textured and from a searing hot vintage—drink over the next 3 or 4 years. (Vic Harradine)


Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso Ca’Del Merlo 2003
IGT Veneto $97.95 (958595) 15.0% alcohol
The doyen of Valpolicella, ‘Bepi’ Quintarelli, passed in 2012, but this classic, single vineyard, red blend—Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella—will reward careful cellaring until 2018. The ‘Merlo’ is not a typo, it means ‘bird’. Incense, dark berry fruit and dark-roast coffee dominate the aromas. His trademark was rich and complex wines, this doesn’t disappoint. It’s spirited and racy with red fruit that’s wreathed with dark, ripe berry fruit, spice and a dusting of dark cocoa. Mid weight and nicely textured it finishes with style and lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

Apegadas Quinta Velha Tinto 2009
DOC Douro $16.95 (314435) 15.5% alcohol
A blend of Port grapes—Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barocca—it’s a great example of the value-laden, delectable, red table wine coming out of the Douro—ignore them at your peril. Earthy tones, spice box and leather on the nose, it coats the palate balanced and brimming with charm—spiced black plum, cranberry and red currant mingling with sweet, dark cherry and cassis. Mid weight with good texture and structure, it finishes in a blaze with a boatload of fruit-driven flavour. (Vic Harradine)


Herdade do Sobroso ‘Sobro’ 2010 

Vinho Regional Alentejo, Portugal $14.95 (306563) 14.0% alcohol 

Piquant spice, aromatic bitters and cedar aromas provide intro to a tangy, juicy river of dark cherry and spice-laden black plum mingling with a solid, ripe, tannin underpinning. Medium bodied and nicely textured this red blend finishes fruit forward and nicely balanced. Decant/aerate a couple of hours and serve alongside roast pork or grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

Bikandi Crianza 2008
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (315689) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic incense, red cherry/berry and leather aromas abound. A persistent, focused stream of flavour washes over the palate with sour cherry and pomegranate interspersed with fennel and savour herbs. It’s medium bodied with fair texture and a mid-length aftertaste laced with racy, tangy red berry fruit and wisps of tannin. Good to go now with meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Piñol ‘Ludovicus Tinto’ 2010
DO Terra Alta $13.95 (313791) 14.0% alcohol
A classic blend from Doña Josefina Piñol—Grenache is joined by Syrah, Cariñena, Tempranillo and Merlot—this approachable red was aged just 4 months in French and American oak. The core of ripe fruit shines through on the nose and palate, spiced vanilla and soft notes of toast and balsamic adding interest. Dry and medium-full bodied, fine tannins and acidity assure balance while the rich fruit delivers a tasty flavourful finish. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy with pizza, burgers or stew. (Susan Desjardins)


Tarima Monastrell 2010
DO Alicante $12.95 (310151) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, boysenberry and pipe tobacco on the nose, it gathers steam on the palate with lively waves of red currant, blueberry and mulberry wreathed in exotic spice and red licorice. It’s medium bodied with a smooth and silky mouth feel and lengthy finish redolent of boysenberry pie. It makes quite an impression given the price. Good drinking now and well poured with pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: April 13, 2013

Norman Hardie ‘County’ Pinot Noir ‘Unfiltered’ 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $35.00 (125310) 12.1% alcohol
‘A classic County profile’ is how Norman Hardie describes this refined, medium-bodied wine. A clear ruby, the nose offers complex aromas—red cherry, wild strawberry, earth, mineral and a touch of spice. Dry, silky in texture, it’s nervy and racy, the bright red berry fruit mingling with earthy notes, mineral and hints of dried herbs. A great wine to pair with duck and cherry sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: May, 2013

Rosehall Run ‘Cuvée County’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 (132928) 13.5% alcohol
This was barrel fermented then aged in French oak 14 months with 1/3 new barrels. Perfumed aromas of toasty oak, nutty notes and ripe apple abound. It’s racy, tangy and brimming with key lime, white peach and pear interwoven with lemongrass and wisps of oak. Mid weight and nicely textured, the aftertaste brims with a crisp, refreshing line of acidity, oaky notes and minerality. Good now, better 2014 – 2016. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Clos des Batuts Cahors 2009
AOC Cahors, France $14.95 (309310) 13.5% alcohol
Don’t be shy, pick up a few. Lifted aromas of spice, cola, black berry and espresso roast provide segue for a medium-full-bodied wash of delicious fruit—black currant and red cherry—interwoven with roasted herbs, mixed spice and notions of cassis. It’s 100% Malbec from old vines, generously textured and well balanced. The dry, lengthy aftertaste adds dark chocolate and tangy, red berry fruit. Lovely sipped on its own or poured with burgers or steak. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Vineland Estates Unoaked Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (669374) 13.0% alcohol
A gold medal winner at the Canadian Wine Awards, this clean, creamy Chardonnay offers lovely aromas of honeysuckle, sweet orchard fruit and a touch of mineral. Slightly off dry, the ripe orchard fruit shines through, mingling with tangerine, apricot and mineral. Just the right balance of acidity creates a bright, refreshing finish—a very tasty wine. (Susan Desjardins)


Vineland Estates Semi-dry Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (232033) 9.0% alcohol
This was among the first Ontario Rieslings accepted by the LCBO, now entering its 28th year on shelves. Produced from vines brought from Germany 40 years ago, it’s almost transparent and offers heady floral aromas and notes of Asian pear, mango and white peach. Clean, fine acidity and a touch of spritz balance the sweet orchard fruit and citrus, creating a refreshing finish with a touch of sweetness. This’ll pair well with Asian cuisine. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

13th Street Gamay Noir ‘Sandstone Reserve’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 13.1% alcohol
The vines for this wine are low-yielding, planted two decades ago in a warm sub-zone that favours fruit ripening. Aged in new and seasoned oak, it captivates with complex aromas—berry, cherry cola, floral notes, dried herbs and a whiff of cedar. Dry, mid-full weight, the firm structure and clean, crisp texture frame intense fruit flavours—black raspberry, cranberry and currant. Deftly crafted and finely balanced, it finishes long and dry. While the 2010 is available through the LCBO, this vintage can be ordered by the case for daily home or office delivery from 13th Street Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Hinterbrook Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 11.4% alcohol
Straw green, offering delicate floral, pear, white peach and mineral aromas, this is a nicely balanced wine. Just off-dry in flavour, it’s clean, crisp texture is a match for fresh citrus, pear and crunchy Mac apple flavours. There’s an attractive touch of sweet fruit on the tasty finish. It’s an enjoyable sipper or a delicious pairing for lightly spiced foods. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hinterbrook Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Hinterbrook Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $27.00 14.0% alcohol
Pale brick and semi-transparent, this single vineyard Pinot was briefly aged in French oak. Offering compelling aromas of ripe red fruit, earth, sweet spice and vanilla, it has great body and warmth. Dry, mid-full weight, there’s a core of rich, concentrated fruit, touches of earth, cocoa and sweet spice, framed by fine-grained tannins and subtle acidity. Offering lovely integration and harmony, the wine finished tasty and warm. Savour it with mushroom risotto and braised chicken thighs. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hinterbrook Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Hinterbrook Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $21.95 13.7% alcohol
Deep ruby and fragrant, this approachable award-winning red offers lovely aromas of plum, blackberry, spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s velvety in texture, subtly structured and rich with dark concentrated fruit, cocoa notes and sweet spice. It finishes dry, tasty and toasty. Enjoy it with rack of lamb. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hinterbrook Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Norman Hardie Riesling 2011
VQA Ontario $21.00 10.4% alcohol
Produced from a combination of Niagara and County fruit, this dry, fresh Riesling offers aromas of citrus, mineral and a whiff of petrol. Dry and silky, the racy acidity is finely balanced with refreshing flavours of grapefruit, lemon/lime and tangy green apple. The finish is long, clean and crisp. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard. (Susan Desjardins)


Pondview Pinot Grigio 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $16.95 12.7% alcohol
Displaying a lovely pale-salmon hue from brief skin contact, this is a very aromatic and flavourful wine produced from 15-year-old vines. Enjoy floral aromas and hints of sweet pear, nectarine and mango. Dry, medium bodied, the lively acidity ensure a clean, fresh wash of flavourful fruit across the palate with a mineral note lingering on the tasty finish. A versatile wine you can enjoy on its own or with light white meat or pasta dishes. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Pondview Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Sue-Ann Staff ‘Sparkling and Sassy’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $27.95 11.0% alcohol
Produced in the traditional method, this lovely sparkling spent 3 months on the lees, offering very subtle aromas of dry crackers, mineral and citrus. Finely textured, it cleanses the palate with racy acidity, offering flavours of citrus and green apple through the lasting, fresh finish. Enjoy as a refreshing sipper or serve with light appetizers. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Sue-Ann Staff ‘Grace’s Dry’ Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 11.0% alcohol
Sue-Ann has a great play on words here—it’s named after her great grandmother, raising her children during prohibition; Grace’s household was ‘dry’! And so is the wine, offering aromas and flavours of mineral, grapefruit and lemon zest followed by a bone-dry, pithy finish. A great food wine, serve this with pan-fried white fish or seafood. Available by the case for daily home or office delivery from Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)


Vineland Estates ‘Bo-Teek Vineyard Elevation’ Cabernet 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (173609) 13.0% alcohol
Just released, this single-vineyard blend, aged 16 months in French oak, is principally Cabernet Franc, one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Merlot. The fine 2010 vintage shines through with the complex nose offering ripe red and black berry fruit, violet and notes of roasted red pepper and cocoa. It’s ripe, satiny and concentrated, clean and fresh. The velvety tannins wrap around intense flavours of black fruit, dark chocolate and cinnamon toast lingering through the long, dry finish. Enjoy with grilled meats. The 2009 is available in the LCBO but this vintage can be ordered by the case for daily home or office delivery from Vineland Estates Winery. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan