Winecurrent

December 4, 2012 Newsletter

There are dates during the year you forget at your peril— your anniversary, spouse’s or significant other’s birthday, April 30 (no explanation required). Here are another set of dates worth punching in. You can purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on February 1, 2013 and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

The 33rd annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:
  • Tuesday, April 2nd: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 3rd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 5th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
  • Monday, April 8th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Wednesday, April 10th: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
  • Thursday, May 2nd: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:  
  • Featured Wineries – Brancott and Stoneleigh from New Zealand.
  • 5 stars – four wines ring the 5-star bell, one Henry of Pelham sparkling in the Vintages release, two in Upstream from Stoneleigh and one in Private Order from Cascina Del Pozzo with the latter three also earning Exceptional Value! .
  • Finding Waldo – a terrific red from DOC Dão, 4 stars, $13.95 and Exceptional Value!
  • Exceptional value wines – 14 wines earned the Exceptional Value! indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’ with two in the Vintages Release – Lailey Vineyard and Quinta das Camélias - and the balance sprinkled throughout the newsletter.
  • Company over the Holidays? – check out the ‘New in the LCBO Portfolio’, it’s a treasure trove of value-laden gems to purchase in quantity.
  • New in Consignment and Private Order – Never dipped your toe in these waters? For information on Consignment wines… click here. Private Order wines are similar, but take a little longer for delivery.
This newsletter begins with wines from the December 8th Vintages Release. Reflecting the upcoming Holiday Season, the prices are more expensive than normal, and with some, the quality is higher, as well. Ironically, two wines that bookend the reviews (first and final) are the only two in the release to earn the Exceptional Value! icon. Those are followed by wines in various categories including future Vintages Releases, newly released wines in the LCBO general section and from wine agents who’ll ship wines to your door—over 50 wines reviewed.
You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should always closely reflect stock in stores, still, best to phone first.  

Vintages Release: December 8, 2012

Holiday Feature

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Lailey Vineyard ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011 

VQA Ontario $14.95 (299776) 12.0% alcohol 

An über-gorgeous wine, fruit-laden aromas of ripe apple and pear introduce a fully textured mouthful of tangy green apple and racy lemon citrus interlaced with hints of pineapple. It’s medium full weight with a monumentally long, lip-smacking aftertaste of lemon pie filling and pit fruit. Great sipping, it also shines with pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (084996) 14.0% alcohol

This Aussie gem is listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification. Aromatic bitters, toasty and earthy notes on the nose, it blossoms on the palate with endless waves of ripe mulberry, racy, juicy red currant and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and smooth as silk, the finish is perfectly balanced—each sip as good or better than the previous—and brimming with dark berry fruit and spiced black plum interwoven with espresso roast and mint. Did I mention it’s well structured, delicious and good value? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Burmester ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port 

DOC Douro $24.95 (223958) 20.0% alcohol 

Aromatic and extremely versatile, this is food friendly with a long delicious sweet aftertaste. Spice cake, iodine and orange marmalade on the nose, it bathes the palate with round fleshy flavours—toffee apple, crème caramel and toasted almonds. Tawny Port gains its name from the tawny colour from many years aged in barrel—resolving tannin and imparting a silky-smooth, lip-smacking experience. Lovely on its own, serve slightly chilled with consommé, fruit cake or Amarelo cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Main Release

Champagne

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taittinger ‘Brut Réserve’ Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $59.95 (814723) 12.5% alcohol 

From one of the great ‘Grand Marque’ Champagne houses—only 24 members—this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Honeyed pear and green apple on the nose, it showcases a gorgeous attack of crisp refreshing flavours—white grapefruit, racy lemon and ripe white peach—carried along on an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles. The refreshing aftertaste is lengthy and spice-infused. It delivers good value. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

***** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2007 

VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol 

Recently disgorged—after spending 5 years on the lees—this measures up to Champagne or sparkling wine from anywhere on the planet. There’s brioche, citrus and nutty aromas while the palate’s showered with spin-tingling acidity moderated by ripe pit fruit and mineral notes. It’s full-blown delicious with fine-bead mousse, creamy mouth feel, deft balance and a crisp, clean attack on the palate and mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Blue Mountain Brut 

Okanagan Valley $27.95 (206326) 12.5% alcohol 

Blue Mountain is well known for its quality, both in sparkling wines and Pinot Noir. Produced in the traditional method and aged 24 months on the lees, this dry, pale-gold blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris displays alluring aromas of butter biscuit, pear, ripe apple and citrus. The refreshing mousse has a fine, creamy texture, while the palate offers vivid citrus and light tree-fruit flavours. Light-medium bodied, the wine is in fine balance with a crisp, lengthy aftertaste. With so few wines from the Okanagan finding their way here, you won’t want to miss this one. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Sparkling Cuvée Brut

New Zealand $21.95 (163634) 12.0% alcohol

Aromas of baking brioche and alluring floral notes open this zippy refreshing gem. The energetic mousse supports flavours of green apple, ripe white peach and slate. It’s nicely textured and finishes lengthy with ripe citrus, sweet notes of ripe pineapple and tree fruit. The sweet and tang on the lip-smacking finish offers the opportunity to pair with spicy appetizers or to sip on its own, either is equally delightful. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Calamus ‘Cosmic’ Red 2010 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (258129) 12.7% alcohol 

A blend of the Cabernets, Merlot and a dash of Pinot Noir, aged 22 months in French and American oak, this wine offers complex aromas—ripe, black fruits, earthy notes, capsicum and smoky spice. Dry, mid-weight, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity underpin flavours of black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and toasty oak. A structured wine with a dry, spiced, tangy finish, it can be held a further 2-3 years or served with grilled steak or meaty lasagna. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tawse Vineyard ‘Quarry Road’ Pinot Noir 2009 

VQA Vinemount Ridge $34.95 (307686) 13.0% alcohol 

Aromas of spice-laden plum, lilac and mineral notes dominate the nose. Gentle and silky smooth, the mid-weight wash of red cherry, ripe red currant, truffles and savory herbs caress in well-balanced waves over the palate. It’s nicely textured with good tang and acidity finishing dry and crisp with a solid core of red fruit and minerality. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Natura Chardonnay 2011 

Casablanca Valley $14.95 (61895) 14.0% alcohol 

Using organic cultivation to bring out the character of the terroir and the full expression of the grapes, Emiliana offers this unoaked refreshingly crisp Chardonnay. Dry, medium bodied, it proffers aromas of melon, peach, apple and citrus, delivering a zesty emphasis on the apple and citrus on the palate. Juicy and flavourful, with a hint of warmth on the finish, this is a great value. Shrimp salad with a lemon dressing, or grilled salmon anyone? (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Ode to Lorraine’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot 2008 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (976423) 14.5% alcohol 

Rich and luscious with touches of elegance, this is complex and layered with balance and charm—it was tough to spit. Perfumed aromas of ripe berry fruit, peppery notes and charred toast mingle with spice and black plum compote. Succulent ripe mulberry, black currant and cassis coat the palate while the lengthy aftertaste’s adorned with tangy, juicy black cherry and firm tannin. There’s life left and the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Don’t hesitate; pick up a few enjoying every two or three years until 2018 noting development. Decant three hours now, if impatient. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Rocca Della Macìe Chianti Riserva 2008 

DOCG Chianti $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol 

Value-laden and brimming with fruit flavour and a luxurious, lip-smacking aftertaste, it sports a lifted nose of charry wood smoke, leather and espresso roast aromas. The palates’ washed with dark berry fruit, red currant and juicy, lively cherry interwoven with roasted herbs. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with glorious blaze of fruit on the finish—black currant and plum—underpinned by supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2008 

IGT Veronese $25.00 (672931) 13.5% alcohol 

This single-vineyard offering went through a second fermentation when a portion of the grapes, ‘raisined’ ‘till January, were added to the fresh wine from September. Deep ruby, lifted aromas of blackberry jam and raspberry, spice and vanilla launch from the glass. Dry, full bodied, the subtle framing accentuates the sweet, dark, spice-infused fruit. Tasty, neatly balanced, it finishes full and fruity with a dash of pepper and a hint of chocolate. Enjoy now or cellar 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Quinta das Camélias ‘Reserva’ 2009 

DOC Dão, Portugal $13.95 (305334) 14.0% alcohol 

A blend of two premium Port grapes, this opens with aromas of dark coffee bean, cherry and loads of mixed spice. It’s medium-full bodied and overflowing with complex, rustic flavours that bloom in the glass and on the palate—bittersweet chocolate, dark, succulent cherry and ripe briary berry interlaced with spice and roasted herbs. It finishes fruity, lengthy and full of promise. Aerate/decant three hours or tuck away until 2014. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: January 5, 2013

**** drink now
Coto de Hayas ‘Centenaria’ Garnacha 2011
DO Campo de Borja, Spain $16.95 (94805) 14.5% alcohol
100-year-old Grenache vines, low yields and 4 months in American oak coalesce in this aromatic—black berry, plum and dark cherry garnished with cola and spice box—lively, juicy gem. Red cherry, currant and mineral tones wash over the palate with a spine of acidity providing great balance. The finish is infused with sour cherry and ripe dark berry fruit ending in a lengthy, dry, mouth-watering finish. Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: January 19, 2013

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
The Grinder Pinotage 2011
WO Western Cape, South Africa $13.95 (269076) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty oak, espresso roast and field berry fruit on the nose, this coats the palate with a spirited wash of dark roast coffee, ripe, sweet mulberry and spice box. Unique, balanced and brimming with flavour it finishes dry and tasty in a blaze of red cherry and good, moderating acidity. It’s an affordable crowd pleaser. Pour with smoked, grilled ribs or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)   

Vintages Release: April, 2013

****1/2 drink now
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Pinot Noir 2011

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of roasted herbs, Asian spice and red berry fruit roll easily from this mid-weight, nicely textured Pinot. Luscious flavours roll in waves with red currant, sour cherry and ripe mulberry mingling with tomato leaf and toasty notes. Complex and rich throughout, the aftertaste is dry and tangy with an underpinning of ripe, supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now Exceptional Value!
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $21.95 12.6% alcohol
This is unfettered ambrosia and value-laden, sourced from the best fruit of their best sites. Herbaceous, slate/mineral and citrus aromas waft easily from this medium-bodied beauty. Complex and structured with oodles of finesse, it washes over the palate with key lime, gooseberry and minerality on the palate and through the balanced, crisp and refreshing finish. My compliments, it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine) 


***** drink now Exceptional Value!
Stoneleigh ‘Rapaura Series’ Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $24.95 12.0% alcohol
With more heft and complexity than the ‘Latitude’, this barrels from the glass with heady aromas of racy passion fruit, wet stone and lemongrass. Its sprays over the palate with hi-toned, bracing acidity—lemon and white grapefruit—balanced with succulent white peach and key lime pie. It’s mid-full weight with a sumptuous mouth feel and laser-like, refreshing finish. This is versatile at the table; pour with ceviche, sushi rolls or crumbled Chèvre over lightly dressed arugula. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

Biciclete Pinot Noir 2011Cono Sur – You may notice a label change and a slight re-naming – from ‘Bicycle’ to ‘Bicicleta’ on this popular series from Cono Sur. It pays homage to their workers as they move amongst the vineyards on, what else… bicycles—Cono Sur is a certified ‘Carbon Neutral’ winery. It’s the same value-laden wine as before—crowd-pleasing and delicious. The Cab may show up on shelves in the spring of 2013. The others are available and in stores now.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Pinot Noir 2011

DO Valle Central, Chile $10.95 (341602) 13.5% alcohol 

Pinot Noir is a Cono Sur specialty; it great value at every price point. This was primarily hand-harvested from an area marked by classic Pinot conditions, cool nights, misty mornings. Opening with a quiet nose of currants and spice, it bathes the palate with a wave of soft black plum, dark, juicy cherry and spiced black currant. It’s rich and balanced with medium body, a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a balanced finish that offers good fruit and moderating acidity. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Viognier 2011

DO Colchagua, Chile $9.95 (064287) 13.8% alcohol 

Honeysuckle and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas herald a balanced and beautiful wash of juicy white peach and ripe sweet melon interlaced with racy citrus. It’s mid weight with very generous mouth feel—silky smooth and creamy—and a persistent, lip-smacking finish showcasing honey-tinged orchard fruit and wisps of exotic spice. Consistently one of the best-value whites on LCBO shelves. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

DO Valle Central, Chile $9.95 13.0% alcohol
Espresso roast, black plum and cedar on the nose, it rolls over the palate with a spirited wash of juicy dark cherry, red currant and ripe, dark berry fruit. Mid weight with good balance and generous mouth feel, it finishes in a blaze of tangy fruit flavour and kirsch liqueur with a dry, lip-smacking aftertaste adorned with leafy, herbaceous notes. This pours particularly well with grilled T-bone or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Cono Sur ‘Bicicleta’ Merlot 2011

DO Valle Central, Chile $9.95 (457176) 13.0% alcohol 
Dusky, hi-toned aromas of charred cedar and berry fruit preview a medium weight, generously textured mouthful of black currant, red cherry and roasted herbs. There’s excellent tang and a supple tannin underpinning that mingle with ripe, dark berry fruit and herbaceous tones on the dry aftertaste. Pour with pasta Bolognese or wings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine Laroche ‘Saint Martin’ Chablis 2011
AOC Chablis, France $21.95 (269678) 12.5% alcohol
Peach, pear and apple aromas waft easily from this nicely textured, well-structured Chablis. It’s lively on the palate with a bracing river of lemon tang and minerality bolstered by nuances of orchard and tropical fruit. Mid weight and balanced, the finish provides a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Good to go with freshly shucked, briny oysters or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Project Paso Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Paso Robles, California $17.90 (291153) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty notes, black plum and dark cherry aromas provide segue for a gorgeous mouthful of black briary berry, juicy Bing cherry and minty nuances rolling over the palate in structured, balanced waves. This classy number is mid weight and fruit laden. The lingering aftertaste layers on a supple underpinning of ripe tannin, excellent moderating acidity, earthy tones and a barrelful of charm and appeal. Sip on its own or pour with barbecued beef or ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Patrick MatermanWinecurrent tasted with Chief Winemaker, Patrick Materman, at fabulous Hy’s restaurant in Ottawa. Patrick’s a true professional having notched 21 vintages with Montana, now Brancott Estate. Patrick also has responsibility for Stoneleigh wines, a well-known, über-popular brand across Canada. The following wines, and those reviewed (above) in ‘Upstream’, showcase flavour-laden, well-balanced, value-packed wine across the range.

Brancott Estate and Stoneleigh – are amongst the world’s leading brands. Beginning as Montana wines in 1934, they were the first to produce Sauvignon Blanc in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. A former Montana president, Frank Yukich could not have been more prescient, proclaiming in 1973, ‘Wines from here will become world famous’.

****1/2 drink now
Brancott ‘Letter Series B’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (278689) 13.2% alcohol
This flagship, single-vineyard, gem hails from tony terroir— site of the original Marlborough plantings of Sauvignon Blanc—cool climate, older (clay) soils, later-ripening fruit. It reveals nectarine, lemongrass and herbaceous aromas heralding a complex, concentrated river of lime cordial, succulent white peach and racy passion fruit flavours. This is mid weight and well balanced with a gorgeous, oily mouth feel and crisp, refreshing aftertaste; it’s well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2011
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $16.95 (288795) 13.4% alcohol
This is terrific, it dishes up a delectable mouthful of value-packed Chardonnay. There’s spice, vanilla and tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—on the nose. It sports a medium-bodied, delicious wash of flavour that’s balanced and beautifully textured with succulent white peach, racy lime and tropical fruit to the fore. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking tang and ripe, fruit flavour—give it a go with a festive bird or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $16.95 (293043) 12.5% alcohol
Rich and luscious on the palate, crisp and refreshing on the finish—what’s not to like? Aromas of passion fruit and melon mingle on the nose. A balanced and well-textured river of tropical fruit interweaves with tangy lime and minerality persisting through the mouth-watering aftertaste. A perennial favourite—it’s hard to go wrong with Stoneleigh on the price-quality scale. Perfectly paired with pan-seared fish, prawns or calamari. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (054353) 13.4% alcohol
Giving proof to the winery name, small, rounded, vineyard stones reflect sunlight and heat enhancing the grape-ripening process. Aromas of spice, berry fruit and toasty notes provide segue for a light and lively wash of palate-bathing, red currant, pomegranate and red cherry. There’s great focus of flavour persisting through the dry, refreshing finish and a balanced, charming aftertaste. Pour with duck breast or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment

There are some outstanding price-quality offerings here. Split a case with a friend, or friends, if you’ve never dipped your toe in these waters. If you drink a few bottles a week, it’s certainly an avenue worth exploring. If you’re restaurant, you can’t pass by Consignment or Private Order.

Order the following by the case of 12 for delivery to home, office or licensee from Charton Hobbs—plus HST and refundable 20-cent bottle deposit. If in the Ottawa area, email Area Manager, Mike MacDougal This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Benziger Family ‘Carneros’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Sonoma County, California $27.95 14.5% alcohol 
Here’s an affordable luxury that rips from the glass with lifted aromas of mint, dark berry fruit and mocha. It soars over the palate with lively black currant and cassis interlaced with dark bittersweet chocolate and a dusty tannin underpinning. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured with a lingering, luxurious aftertaste. Good now, after a brief aeration/decant, and on to 2020—perfect for gifting. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Benziger Family ‘Lake and Sonoma Counties’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010 

Lake County and Sonoma County, California $19.95 13.5% alcohol 
Beautifully balanced and brimming with charm, alluring aromas of orchard fruit, grapefruit and melon waft from this medium-weight, nicely textured SB. It’s crisp and refreshing throughout with good lift from lively flavours washing over the palate—guava, pineapple and lemon zest. Easy to pair, pour with pan-seared salmon or scallops, or mussels steamed in white wine… this white wine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Benziger Family ‘Russian River Valley’ Syrah 2006 

Russian River Valley, North Coast, California $19.95 14.5% alcohol 
Cracked black pepper and dark berry fruit interweave with roasted herbs on the nose, while rich, luscious black currant and mulberry bathe the palate. It’s mid-full weight with plush texture and a juicy, persistent, mouth-watering finish of red cherry and black plum compote. It’s value-packed and nicely balanced with good acidity and ripe fruit, the oak well-integrated, the tannins ripe and supple. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

There are some outstanding price-quality offerings here. Split a case with a friend, or friends, if you’ve never dipped your toe in these waters. If you drink a few bottles a week, it’s certainly an avenue worth exploring. If you’re restaurant, you can’t pass by Consignment or Private Order.

*** drink or cellar
Bodega Bouza 'Clásico' Tannat 2010
Montevideo, Uruguay $21.95 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, matchstick and wisps of berry fruit aromas provide segue for a wash of dark berry fruit wreathed with sprigs of herbaceous notes and charred wood smoke. It’s juicy and tangy throughout with mid weight, nice texture and a dry, mouth-watering aftertaste that layers on earthiness and oaky tones. Order by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts via email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

Order the following by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

Spirits

****1/2 drink or cellar
Michel Beucher Vieux Calvados
AOC Calvados Production Fermière, France $119.95 700 mL 43% alcohol
This highly recommended, amber-hued ambrosia leaps from the glass with heady aromas of vanilla, spun sugar and ripe apple. It coats the palate with concentrated, spirited flavours of treacle and baked apple mingling with citrus and spice. It broadens out on the lingering, nicely balanced aftertaste. Certified organic, it’s made entirely on this family-producer’s farm, aged three years before release. Though not improving in bottle, it’ll keep its freshness at least 12 months, capped in a cool place—this has a glass stopper. (Vic Harradine)

White Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla’ Airén 2011
DOP La Mancha, Spain $10.50 12.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of floral notes, tropical fruit and spice blossom from this mid weight, value-laden white. It’s nicely textured with a persistent, palate-bathing wash of tangy citrus, succulent white peach and ripe pear. In a lighter style and punching well above the price, this finishes smooth as silk, crisp and refreshing. Highly recommended, a case of this won’t hang around long. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla’ Sauvignon Blanc - Chardonnay 2011
DOP La Mancha, Spain $10.50 12.5% alcohol
Ripe orchard fruit and lime cordial mingle with hints of rosewater on the nose heralding a nicely textured river of green apple, tangy lemon and ruby red grapefruit. It sports good mouth feel and deft balance finishing dry clean and crisp. Pour with prawn ceviche or pan-seared calamari. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Ewald Gruber ‘Reserve’ Grüner Veltliner 2011
DAC Weinviertel, Austria $25.95 13.5% alcohol
An aromatic nose of white pepper, floral and mineral notes rips from the glass of this well-balanced, fruit-laden beauty. It’s medium bodied with a generous, silky-smooth mouth feel and oodles of charm and structure. Ripe tropical fruit—melon and pineapple—interweave with white peach, citrus and minerality on the palate. It finishes lengthy, refreshing and mouth-watering good. Pour alongside roast chicken, slow-roast pork or pan-seared tuna. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Cascina Del Pozzo Roero Arneis 2011
DOCG Roero Arneis, Italy $18.75 13.0% alcohol
Produced from the Arneis grape in the upscale region of Roero in the Piemonte region, this opens with a nose of tangy grapefruit and white flowers. A blaze of flavour arouses the palate with zesty lemon, ripe nectarine and blood orange to the fore. It’s mid weight with good texture and a long, juicy aftertaste. This offers a boatload of value, pairing well with steamed mussels, garlic shrimp or calamari—über delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Az. Agricola Bocchino Giuseppe ‘arduine’ Barbera 2011
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $17.50 13.5% alcohol
Asian spice, charred cedar and ripe, dried dark fruit aromas intro a balanced and lively, racy river of sour cherry and tangy red berry fruit on the palate. It’s mid weight with nice texture and a solid spine of acidity throughout. It finishes dry and refreshing with prominent sprigs of herbaceous tones on the aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Az. Agricola Bocchino Giuseppe ‘L’Aurelio’ Nebbiolo 2010
DOC Nebbiolo d’Alba, Italy $21.95 14.0% alcohol
Mint, blueberry and new leather aromas on the nose, this dishes up a lovely array of ripe fruit on the palate—tangy, juicy black currant, dark plum compote and dark cherry. It’s rich and complex with a mid-full body and extended finish showcasing briary berry and toasty notes underpinned by a solid tannin structure. Drink 2014 to 2019. If impatient—aerate/decant three hours pouring with smoked, grilled back ribs or a prime cut of grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Az. Agricola Bocchino Giuseppe ‘Blincin’ Barbera 2010
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $21.95 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of rich, dark berry fruit and fennel open this medium-bodied, well-textured red that’s brimming with ripe berry fruit, juicy dark cherry, exotic spice and mocha. It’s delicious throughout with good structure, balance and oodles of charm and complexity. Dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate dominate the aftertaste along with hints of briary berry and dark toast—a top-notch red. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Az. Agricola Bocchino Giuseppe ‘Sens’ Barbera 2011
DOCG Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Italy $15.75 12.5% alcohol
This is from a family-owned and operated winery producing flavourful, good-value wine in Asti, the home of Barbera. It’s lively and zesty with floral notes, spice and red berry fruit on the nose. It’s light on its feet with a balanced wash of red currant and sour cherry and kitchen spice. A bistro-styled, fun and flavourful red made for early drinking, give it a go with pizza, wings or ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cascina Del Pozzo ‘Fossamara’ Barbera 2010
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $18.50 13.5% alcohol
An involved nose of toasty oak, dark berry fruit and espresso roast provides segue for a medium-full bodied river of dark, juicy cherry and black currant mingling with leather and earthy nuances on the palate. It sports good mouth feel, deft balance and a lengthy aftertaste of ripe mulberry and spice underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now Exceptional Value!
Cascina Del Pozzo ‘Lucrezia’ Barbera 2008
DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $26.25 13.5% alcohol
Showing a bit of age with brick on the rim, this fills the room with a glorious bouquet of leather, spice-infused black plum and dark coffee. It’s mid-full weight with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and good structure and complexity throughout. It finishes with tangy flavours of cherry and cassis that wash in endless waves. It has excellent moderating acidity to balance the delectable fruit and enough tannin for structure—the oak’s perfectly integrated. It’s a fine Barbera that was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Quinta da Casaboa ‘Vinho Tinto’ 2008
Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal $13.90 14.0% alcohol
This regional red blend—Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alicante Bouschet—wafts from the glass with exotic spice, black plum compote and dark cherry. It’s deftly balanced, medium bodied with silky-smooth mouth feel and delectable, palate-bathing, sweet, dark berry fruit, bittersweet chocolate and oodles of charm. It finishes, lengthy, fruit-forward and lip-smacking good – a sure-fire crowd pleaser. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Quinta da Casaboa Touriga Nacional 2006
Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, black plum, mocha and cola introduce this balanced, brawny gem. Wave after wave of delectable black currant, sweet mulberry and plum bathe the palate. It’s medium bodied and fully textured with a supple tannin underpinning and an endless aftertaste. This hefty red pours well with hearty stew, ribs or a slab of grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine Combe blanche ‘Calamiac terroir’ Tempranillo 2011
IGP Pays Côtes du Brian, France $14.95 14.5% alcohol
The French argue this is home for Tempranillo; you may want to sidestep the argument, but not this wine. Cola and toast aromas on the nose, there are sweet, ripe and delicious dark cherry, black currant and kirsch liqueur flavours bathing the palate and long finish. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and an excellent balance of fruit, supple, sweet tannin and moderating acidity. Each sip is better than the last and the price-quality ratio skews in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla - Reserva’ 2007
DOP La Mancha, Spain $14.25 12.5% alcohol
This contemporary blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon dishes up a nose of mocha, cedar and mineral-laced red cherry. It sprays over the palate and through the drying, tangy finish with a balanced, nicely textured wash of sour cherry, spice-laden black plum coupled with lingering herbaceous notes on the aftertaste. Give this a try with chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla - Barrica’ Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
DOP La Mancha, Spain $11.50 12.5% alcohol
Rich aromas spill from the glass of this powerful, balanced blend—spice-infused black plum and cassis adorned with dark cherry. It’s mid weight with oodles of mouth feel and a solid tannin underpinning. Flavours of racy red cherry and red berry fruit mingle with ripe mulberry, spice and good moderating acidity on the palate and through the lengthy, dry aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring with venison steaks or a hearty stew like cassoulet or osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla’ Crianza Tempranillo 2008
DOP La Mancha, Spain $13.90 12.5% alcohol
The ‘Crianza’ designation indicates at least one-year ageing in oak before bottling, this is 100% Tempranillo grape. The complex bouquet of black plum, aromatic bitters and cedar is garnished with pipe tobacco. It’s simply delectable on the palate with ripe, sweet, dark fruit and plum pudding infused with Christmas cake spice and dark coffee. It’s medium bodied and fleshy on the palate with a satin-smooth aftertaste that’s balanced and fruit-forward. It’s value packed; what’s not to love? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Marques de Castilla’ Tempranillo-Syrah-Merlot 2011
DOP La Mancha, Spain $10.50 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of freshly crushed grapes, red berry fruit and cola rip from this crowd-pleasing, balanced, dripping-with-fruit, red blend. Light on its feet and silky smooth, ribbons of red cherry, black currant and black raspberry bathe the palate in rolling waves. It’s built for hedonistic enjoyment with food—pizza, ribs, wings, fajitas, burgers, mac and cheese—or on its own and you simply can’t beat the price. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bodegas Cristo de la Vega ‘Yugo - Reserva’ Tempranillo 2007
DOP La Mancha, Spain $16.70 12.5% alcohol
This is a 50th Anniversary red offering a bouquet of black plum mingling with wisps of dark toast and sweet oak. It bathes the palate with a consistent, satin-smooth wash of black currant, ripe, juicy black cherry and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s complex and nicely balanced with enough acidity and ripe tannin to add interest and provide structure. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or risotto with a field mushroom medley. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic