Winecurrent

November 20, 2012 Newsletter

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include
  • Finding Waldo – an elegant Pinot from PEC under $40 earning 4½ stars.
  • Featured Wineries – Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery under ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ and Benziger Family Estates under ‘New in Consignment’.
  • 5 stars – five wines ring the 5-star bell as the Holiday Season attracts the heavy hitters.
  • Company coming? – check out the ‘New in the LCBO’ section for a treasure trove of value-laden reds and whites to purchase in quantity.
  • Exceptional value wines – five wines earned the Exceptional Value! indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’ with all found following the Vintages Release.
This newsletter begins with 16 wines from the November 24th Vintages Release. Reflecting the upcoming Holiday Season, the prices are more expensive than normal, and with some, the quality is higher, as well. Those are followed by wines in various categories including upcoming wines in future Vintages Releases, newly released wines in the LCBO general section and in Vintages, New in Ontario Wineries and from wine agents who will ship wines to your door—a total of +50 wines reviewed. 


You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then. 

Vintages Release: November 24, 2012

Fortified Wine: Port

****1/2 drink or cellar
Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000 

Porto, Douro, Portugal $79.95 (140277) 20% alcohol 

This is a dazzling, unctuous, muscular Port from a great vintage reaching maturity circa 2025. Amazingly, it can be poured now after a four-hour aeration-decant. Black cherry, plum and spice on the nose, palate-coating flavours wash in endless waves—cherry clafoutie, macerated fruit and cassis galore interweave with ripe, fresh briary berry and bittersweet chocolate. Unfined and unfiltered with huge, ripe tannin, you’ll need to decant—it pours well with Stilton, Parmigiano-reggiano or death-by-chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Jackson-Triggs Icewine Gewürztraminer 2007

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 200 mL (193326) 10.0% alcohol

Delicate aromas of exotic spice, floral notes and tropical fruit give way to a delicious and nicely balanced mouthful of pineapple, poached pear and spice-infused mango. This is mid weight and well textured with a lengthy finish adorned by hints of blood orange. Pouring well on its own, it also sips well alongside crème brulée. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Stratus Icewine Riesling 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (056671) 200 mL 12.5% alcohol 

Perfumed aromas of orange, lemon-peel marmalade and key lime abound dishing up a huge mouthful of mouth-watering nectar. This is balanced, well structured and simply delicious… every sip. The purity of fruit on the palate—mango, orange and candied white peach—glides effortlessly through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Perfect for sipping on its own or alongside tarte tatin, pear or lemon fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Featherstone Rosé 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (117861) 12.0% alcohol 

Iridescent pink and brimming with slightly off-dry flavour, this sports lively aromas of strawberry and red plum adorned with spice. Cranberry tang and sweet strawberry jam interweave with ripe, red grapefruit on the palate and off-dry aftertaste. Lovely sipped on its own and paired well with deli platter or a spicy Asian dish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink now
Mike Weir Pinot Noir 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (00075) 13.0% alcohol 

Dry and mid weight, this is nicely balanced with delicate aromas and well-defined flavours of tasty red and black berries mingling with sweet spice and an underlying earthy note that lingers through the finish. It’s fresh, lively and slightly peppery, a good match for farfalle with duck and arugula. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

***** drink or cellar
Krug ‘Grande Cuvée’ Champagne Brut

AOC Champagne $271.95 (038562) 

This is forward, full bodied and from, arguably, the planet’s premium producer of bubbly. It’s also Krug’s flagship, ageworthy cuvée. Typically, Krug Grande Cuvée is blended from as many as 50 wines from the three Champagne grape varieties—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and from six to ten different vintages. Baking brioche and clove-infused lemon aromas segue bold and beautiful flavours—spiced green apple, citrus and yellow peach—proffered on a generously textured bed of fine pin-point effervescence that’s persistent and refreshing through the robust and lengthy finish. This has the structure and character to pair well with a festive bird—this year or any from now to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink now
First Press Chardonnay 2010 

Napa Valley $19.95 (199810) 14.5% alcohol 

This bold and beautiful, oaked Chardonnay will pour well with your Easter turkey or glazed ham. Offering appealing aromas of vanilla-scented orchard and tropical fruits, it’s dry, round and substantial. A core of orchard fruit, notes of citrus and an attractive nutty character bathe the palate. Well balanced with a lasting, toasty finish, it’s bound to be a crowd pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cicchitti ‘Edicion Limitada’ Malbec 2008 

Mendoza $24.95 (260893) 14.0% alcohol 

Dense-purple in hue, the wine beckons with its aromas of ripe fruit, vanilla and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, the smooth round texture captivates, introducing a mouthful of fruity ripe spiced berries, notes of pepper with toast adding complexity. Approachable and well structured, this is a finely balanced wine that offers toasty warmth on the finish. Enjoy now with grilled meat and veggies or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Santa Helena ‘Vernus’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Colchagua Valley $24.95 (295519) 14.5% alcohol
The complex aromas from this succulent beauty offer dark berry fruit, spice and espresso roast. Concentrated waves—dark, juicy cherry, briary berry and fig—wash the palate in waves. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a grainy, juicy aftertaste of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark, bittersweet chocolate. There’s great value here. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine


****1/2 drink or cellar
Small Gully ‘The Formula Robert’s’ Shiraz 2006

South Australia $18.95 (142935) 15.9% alcohol

Opening with a lifted, rich nose of bramble berry, tar and spice with nuances of espresso roast, this full-bodied, fully flavoured beauty coats the palate with black raspberry, sweet mulberry and ripe juicy Bing cherry. It’s mid weight and generously textured sporting a fruity and balanced, lengthy aftertaste replaying the fruit adorned with hints of mocha and spice. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2011

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol 

Toast, earthiness and cedar interweave with red and black currant heralding a bright, ruby-red, flavourful river of sour cherry, blueberry and spice-infused black plum. This is mid weight, nicely textured with a wisp of tannin underpinning the lengthy, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Very versatile—pour with roast chicken, smoked turkey, veal dishes or slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink now
Lomond Syrah 2008 

WO Cape Agulhas $19.95 (146464) 14.0% alcohol 

Dry and mid weight, this is expressive—red fruit, floral notes, spice and subtle herbs rush from the glass. Firm tannin and light acidity underlay fresh fruit—raspberries and black cherries—and a robust peppery note. Nicely balanced, it’s a match for lighter meats and will cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Rust En Vrede Shiraz 2009 

WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (921767) 15.0% alcohol 

Dark ripe berry fruit garnished with mocha and vanilla dominate the aromas on this ripe, sweet, fruit-filled Shiraz. Shielded by mountains from both the Cape Doctor south easterly winds and the south westerlies, and aided by an ideal vintage, fruit was allowed to reach maximum maturity. Persistent waves of concentrated, sweet, briary berry, ripe mulberry and kirsch liqueur wash over the palate and lingering, luscious aftertaste. It’s medium-plus bodied and nicely textured with a robust finish garnished with considerable small-grained tannin. Aged 18 months in 60% French and 40% American oak. Good to go 2013 to 2018 or now after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside a grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 cellar
Masi ‘Campolongo Di Torbe’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 

DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (548677) 16.0% alcohol 

The name ‘Masi’, and a mere handful of others, is an almost guarantee of quality wine at a fair price, this red supports that. Toasty notes, spice cake and espresso roast on the nose, the rich and luscious flavours run over the palate and through the lingering aftertaste—black plum compote, deep rich cherry and black raspberry adorned with a tell-tale Amarone bite on the aftertaste. This is full bodied and full of flavour with a solid tannin underpinning and wonderful acidity. Drink 2014 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Masi ‘Mazzano’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 

DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $99.95 (215764) 16.0% alcohol 

Wood smoke, raisin and fennel aromas introduce a mid weight, generously textured gem. It brims with rich concentrated flavours washing in persistent waves with oodles of spice cake, rich dark cherry and briary berry on the palate. It showcases great balance, good structure and plenty of charm. It finishes lengthy with dark fruit flavours mingling with bittersweet chocolate and dark coffee. Drinking well now to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Señorio De P. Peciña ‘Reserva’ 2001 

DOCa Rioja $29.95 (082156) 13.5% alcohol 

Leather, tomato leaf and spice-infused dark plum and cherry dominate the alluring nose while a persistent current of sour cherry, savoury herbs and dried currant washes over the palate. It’s light-medium weight with nice texture replaying flavours on the mid-length, supple tannin finish adorned by lip-smacking tanginess. Poured well with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Nouveau Release: Thursday, November 15, 2012

***1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Generation Seven ‘Je Suis Arrivé’ Gamay Nouveau 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $11.95 (318600) 13.0% alcohol
Bright purple, this gulpable wine livens the gray days of November with cheery aromas of ripe strawberries, cherry drops and bubblegum. Fresh, fruity and juicy, it’s a red fruit medley—raspberry, sour cherry and cranberry—layered on lively acidity offering a touch of black pepper and herbs on the refreshing finish. Sip on its own or enjoy with turkey or pizza—and feel good that 50 cents from your purchase goes to Meal Exchange. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 8, 2012

***** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine Estate Carte Blanche’ Blanc de Blanc 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
Recently disgorged—after spending 5 years on the lees—this measures up to Champagne or sparkling wine from anywhere on the planet. There’s brioche, citrus and nutty aromas while the palate’s showered with spin-tingling acidity moderated by ripe pit fruit and mineral notes. It’s full-blown delicious with fine-bead mousse, creamy mouth feel, deft balance and a crisp, clean attack on the palate and mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: February, 2013

**** drink or cellar
Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico ‘Reserva Familia Zingarelli’ 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $21.95 (930996) 14.5% alcohol
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot add complexity to the aromas—warm ripe fruit, subtle herbs, spice and hints of tobacco and cedar. Herbal notes, spice, a certain earthiness layer on red cherry and black currant, all framed by fine subtle structure. A notion of minerality drifts across the palate of this dry, mid-full weight wine while hints of coffee bean linger on a dry, lengthy finish. Serve with herbed leg of lamb or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: March 2, 2013

***1/2 drink now
Ca’ dei Mandorli Moscato d’Asti dei Giari 2011
DOCG Moscato d’Asti, Italy $16.50 (179259) 5.0% alcohol
Lovely light herbal notes, aromas of ripe grapes and honeyed stone fruit entice. Off-dry, light bodied, this is a delightful wine with a fine, frothy effervescence and flavours of honeydew melon and lime-tinged stone fruit. Nicely balanced, it’s flavourful and sweetly fruity to the finish. Enjoy as dessert or with fruit flan, lemon chiffon pie or a white chocolate tart. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: Spring 2013

**** drink or cellar
Castello Banfi ‘Alta Langa’ ‘Cuvée Aurora’ Sparkling Rosé 2009
DOCG Piemonte, Italy $24.95 12.0% alcohol
Produced in the traditional method using Pinot Noir harvested from a hilltop estate vineyard in Piemonte, this salmon-hued sparkling wine offers subtle aromas of red fruits, apples and a hint of citrus. Dry, clean and crisp, the silky, persistent mousse carries delicate flavours of red fruit, a hint of peach and a touch of pithy citrus through a very attractive lively finish. Enjoy with smoked salmon appetizers or quiche or with a medley of roasted root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Cabernet Franc Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (231639) 375 mL 11.0% alcohol
Winemaker, Sue-Ann Staff, struts her stuff with this rich, luscious rendition. Aromas of spiced black plum and dark berry fruit intro balanced and beautiful, palate-bathing flavours of sweet, ripe mulberry, blood orange and freshly sliced strawberry adorned with amazing balance and cleansing acidity on the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with good texture. Enjoy as dessert or surprise wine-loving friends by gifting a bottle. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Allegrini Valpolicella 2011
DOC Valpolicella, Italy $13.95 (230789) 13.0% alcohol
Fresh, ruby-red and lively, this brims with aromas red cherry, cranberry and plummy notes. It’s juicy and tangy on the palate with a river of red cherry and spice-infused field berry fruit persisting through the balanced, dry, mouth-watering finish. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and versatility with food—pizza, ribs, wings or pasta. (Vic Harradine)

The following Ripasso is a further $1 off December 2 – January 5

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Allegrini ‘Corte Giara’ Ripasso 2010
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso, Italy $16.95 13.5% alcohol
Hi-toned and downright delicious, this rips from the glass with raisin, fig and dried fruit aromas. Balanced and beautiful—dark berry fruit, roasted herbs and dark chocolate swirl over the palate infusing the lengthy, dry, fruit-laden aftertaste. This is complex, structured and oozing class. Aerate/decant two hours and it even gets better. Run, don’t walk and stock up. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Argento Bonarda 2011
Mendoza, Argentina $9.95 (292458) 13.5% alcohol
Although widely grown in Argentina—just behind Malbec—Bonarda is often consumed locally allowing this to fly under the radar. Be the first on your block to raise some eyebrows with this gorgeous red that tips the quality-price scale well in your favour. Intense aromas of dark, spiced berry fruit and toasty notes, it coats the palate with a rush of beautifully balanced, fruit-filled flavour—black currant, ripe mulberry and juicy, dark cherry. There’s good depth and the finish lingers, lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

For a 7-minute video on Mendoza and Argento winemaker, Silvia Corte, click here.

***1/2 drink now
Argento Malbec 2012
Mendoza, Argentina $9.95 (591693) 13.5% alcohol
Ruby-purple, fresh and lively, this bolts from the glass with heady aromas of mixed, dark field berry fruit and black licorice. Juicy and brimming with fruit on the palate, a stream of red cherry, briary berry and black plum compote follows through on the dry, finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured pouring well with pizza, ribs or wings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value! Two Glasses!
Brumont Gros Manseng-Sauvignon 2011 

IGP Côtes de Gascogne $12.95 (297234) 12.5% alcohol 

Coming to the LCBO early December—the best-selling French white wine in the SAQ. Gros Manseng, a little-known grape, is grown principally in SW France. Vic and I loved it; enjoy fairly intense floral aromas and scents of stone fruit and lemon-lime. Dry and light-mid weight, it’s round, smooth and lively with notes of citrus, ripe apple and a clean, crisp, lemon pith finish. Try it with your favourite seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Joseph Drouhin ‘Drouhin-Vaudon’ Chablis 2010
AOC Chablis $19.95 (284026) 12.5% alcohol
Floral, mineral notes and tropical fruit aromas billow from this crisp, refreshing gem. It dishes up a river of tangy citrus and ripe pit fruit mingling with green apple. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a refreshing finish brimming with delicious flavour, deft balance and good value. Drinking well now with mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine’ Rosé Brut Non Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (217505) 12.0% alcohol
Lively aromas of strawberry, spice and floral notes provide segue for a delectable mouthful of pin-point bubbles and mouth-watering blood orange, red currant and ruby grapefruit adorned with brioche and juicy, ripe dark cherry. This has lovely mouth feel and replays flavours on the lingering, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pours well as a welcoming wine and has the oomph for roast turkey dinner. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Baco Noir 2010
VQA Ontario $14.95 (260422) 10.8% alcohol
Oodles of spice, freshly crushed grapes and dark berry fruit on the nose provide segue for a lively, juicy river of palate-bathing flavours with red cherry and red and black currant mingling with ripe briary berry. This is light on its feet with a focused, tangy aftertaste of red cherry with hints of mocha. It’s paired well with a plate of smoked meat, stinky cheese—Oka or 1608—and a baguette. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink or cellar
Closson Chase ‘The Brock’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara River $23.95 13.5% alcohol
Vigneron/winemaker extraordinaire, Deborah Paskus, cast her magic over this. Toasty oak and apple pie spice on the nose, this drenches the palate with luscious waves of nutmeg, ginger and succulent white peach garnished with tropical fruit and fennel. It’s mid-full weight and fully textured with good complexity. The lip-smacking aftertaste lingers, balanced, fruit-laden and full of charm—will improve in bottle over the next three or four years. Order by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Closson Chase. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Closson Chase ‘Closson Chase Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $39.95 12.5% alcohol
A scant 1.12 tonnes/acre, organically farmed, hand harvested, native-yeast fermented and meticulous fruit handling coalesce into a pale-red, silky-smooth, light-on-its-feet gem. There are herbal and spiced beetroot aromas on the nose with an elegant wash of tang-infused red berry fruit, roasted herbs and juicy cherry bathing the palate. It’s focused and persistent on the finish with good balance, wisps of oak, minerality and sense of purpose. Order by the case for delivery to home, office or licensee from Closson Chase. (Vic Harradine)

Sue-Ann StaffSue-Ann Staff Estate Winery - After cutting her teeth as assistant winemaker then taking over the winemaking reins at Pillitteri Estates Winery for a decade, Sue-Ann Staff made a brief appearance with Twenty Bees before settling into her own digs on the family farm as well as handling the winemaking for John Howard’s Megalomaniac brand. She’s won numerous national and international medals, trophies and accolades—Winemaker of the Year 2002, short-listed twice for ‘Top Women in Wine’—and she’s certainly not finished.

Sue-Ann’s roots go deep; her family’s owned the present farm for two centuries, growing grapes for over one hundred years. And, it’s still a family affair with mom, dad, brother and sister-in-law all involved. It straddles two VQA sub-appellations with clay topsoil and limestone base—Twenty Mile Bench (in the Niagara Escarpment region) and Vinemount Ridge. This anomaly forces the Niagara Peninsula designation on the label, even though all the wines reviewed are ‘estate’ grown. Wines have been submitted to the LCBO and one can’t imagine it’ll be long before they’re all available in stores.

The four wines reviewed below were tasted with Sue-Ann and will be shipped to office, home or licensee from the winery; simply click here.

**** drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery ‘Grace’s’ Dry Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 11.1% alcohol
Lemon-lime and slate/mineral aromas set up a clean, crisp and complex wash of ripe key lime and grapefruit that’s balanced nicely with nuances of pit fruit framed by steely minerality. It’s medium weight with a round, silky mouth feel. Flavours broaden out on the back of the palate and mouth-watering aftertaste adding delicious notes of white nectarine. Pour with pan-seared tilapia or scallops. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery ‘Loved by Lou’ Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 11.1% alcohol
This off-dry, crowd-pleaser has an aromatic outburst of alluring aromas with tropical fruit, floral and peel marmalade among them. There’s a mélange of flavours with lemon chiffon pie and crisp, green apple mingling with ripe melon and pit fruit. It finishes in a blaze, mouth-watering, balanced and fruit-filled—ripe sweet orchard fruit mingling with clean, tangy citrus and minerality. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery ‘Robert’s Block’ Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.00 11.0% alcohol
Honeyed pit fruit, slate and minerality dominate the aromas. A palate-bathing river of juicy, tangy flavour—lime, Meyer lemon, orange zest—is wreathed by mineral tones and white peach persisting through the lengthy, slightly off-dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a boatload of charm. Pour with seafood paella or lemon sole. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Vidal 2011
VQA Ontario $14.00 12.5% alcohol
This is slightly off-dry and entirely on target, dishing up delightful mouthfuls of pure sipping pleasure. Aromas of pit fruit and citrus mingle with floral notes on the nose while the palate’s treated to a persistent, generously textured wash of tangy grapefruit and spiced, baked apple flavours. It’s mid weight with a lengthy, mouth-watering, off-dry finish of racy citrus and succulent white peach. A gorgeous aperitif and it pours well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment

Kathy Benziger-ThrelkeldBenziger Family Winery – Kathy Benziger-Threlkeld—kid sister to six siblings - passionate, personable, primed and pumped with enthusiasm—showcased her family’s wines recently in Ottawa and winecurrent was there to bring you the following reviews and how to purchase. Benziger was an early adopter of sustainable farming practices, moving through, and gaining certification in, sustainable, organic and, eventually biodynamic practices.

One of the few family-owned and family-operated wineries in Sonoma, there are four generations and over 20 family members involved. Growers are also an important part of their larger family, partnering in the Benziger raison d’être ‘family, great wines and healthy vineyards’. The three wines reviewed below speak for themselves, but here’s a great video that speaks to what Benziger’s all about… click here.

Order the Chardonnay and Merlot by the case of 12 (the iconic, 5-star Tribute is a six-pack) for delivery to home, office or licensee in time for Christmas from Charton Hobbs—plus HST and refundable 20-cent bottle deposit. If you’re in the Ottawa area, email Area Manager, Mike MacDougal This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

****1/2 drink now
Benziger Family Carneros Chardonnay 2009
Carneros, California $23.95 13.9% alcohol
Alluring aromas of toast, ginger, cinnamon and vanilla waft easily from this structured, gorgeous Chard. Waves of complex, delicious flavours roll endlessly with racy citrus, spiced apple and tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied, rich and smooth as silk with good depth and a lingering aftertaste of succulent white peach and lemon yoghurt adorned with exotic spice. A perfect dance partner for roast turkey, steamed lobster or pork roast. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Benziger Family Sonoma Merlot 2007
Sonoma County, California $25.95 14.5% alcohol
Black plum, cedar and tobacco on the nose, there’s a river of palate-bathing, luscious black currant, juicy dark cherry and spice-infused black plum. It sports good weight and texture with deft balance and a lengthy aftertaste of dark berry fruit wreathed by roasted herbs and mocha. The oak and tannins are fully integrated, the overall tasting experience quite special; even so, improves with a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Benziger Family ‘Tribute’ 2007
Sonoma Mountain, California $99.95 14.6% alcohol
This is the first Demeter-certified, bio-dynamic wine from Napa or Sonoma. Sandalwood, wisps of wood smoke and rich, concentrated berry fruit aromas roll from this rich, luscious red blend—84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot. A complex, structured ribbon of sweet, ripe mulberry and cassis mingle with earthy tones and dark chocolate. It’s fully textured with good weight and a solid core of fruit interlaced with moderating acidity and supple tannin on the luxurious finish. Splendid now, even better 2015 to 2020—it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

**** drink now
Domaine des Boutires ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Pouilly-Fuissé 2011
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé, France $20.50 13.0% alcohol
Golden yellow and aromatic—baked apple and mixed spice—this Mâconnais Chardonnay showers the palate with rich and balanced flavours of ripe citrus, white peach and pear. It’s medium bodied, nicely balanced with good mouth feel and lots of charm. On the lingering finish there’s good tang and fruit flavour with myriad food pairing combinations—roast chicken, lemon veal or steamed mussels. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Greenpiper ‘Night Harvest’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Margaret River, Australia $25.95 13.5% alcohol
Roasted herbs, pipe tobacco and raisined dark berry fruit on the nose, it sports a wash of red cherry, mocha and tangy red berry fruit. It’s balanced, mid weight with nice texture and a lingering, warm finish of spice-laden black plum wreathed with herbaceous notes. Pours especially well alongside lamb daube. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic