November 7, 2012 Newsletter
LCBO hours for Remembrance Day
LCBO stores that normally open on Sunday will open at noon on Remembrance Day, Sunday, November 11 and remain open until normal closing hours.The exception is the City of Ottawa, where LCBO stores will not open until 12:30 p.m. due to Remembrance Day events in the National Capital Region. LCBO agency stores observe their normal hours of business on November 11.
LCBO head office in Toronto will be closed on Monday, November 12, in recognition of Remembrance Day. However, the toll-free, bilingual helloLCBO Contact Centre at 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226) or online at hellolcbo.com will be available to customers.
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Exceptional value wines – six wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’ all found following the Main Release: two from Niagara’s Reif Estate, both 4 stars @ $10.75, a Lurton Pinot Grigio 4 stars @ $11.95 and one from Grange of Price Edward County 4½ stars @14.95, both in New in the LCBO & two in Private Order from Nokhrin Wines. - Finding Waldo – this organic red boasts 4½ stars @ $13.75 with a and Graciano in the blend.
- Grange of Prince Edward County – found in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section with four wines tasted and reviewed.
- 5 stars – four wines ring the 5-star bell and they’re spread throughout the newsletter.
- Viña Cousiño-Macul – winecurrent tasted with President and owner Arturo Cousiño reviewing three of their wines.
You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. The stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then.
Vintages Release: November 10, 2012
Feature: Festive Finds
Möet & Chandon ‘Grand Vintage Brut Rosé’ Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $87.95 (69831) 12.5% alcohol
Salmon-hued and boasting rich, lifted aromas of brioche, leesy notes and red berry fruit, it’s well balanced and structured with oodles of charm. It glides across the plate on an endless frothy mousse of small-bead bubbles and a generous spray of tangy red currant and ripe, ruby red grapefruit mingling with crisp lemony tones. It finishes lip-smacking good—drink now to 2020 with pan-seared salmon or roast fowl. (Vic Harradine)
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava
Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight in an elegant hand-blown bottle with a pewter crest and base, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)
Alejandro Fernandez ‘Tinto Pesquera’ Crianza 2009
DO Ribera del Duero $26.95 (341461) 14.0% alcohol
This dishes up aromas of sandalwood, sweet vanilla, toasty oak and anise-infused red cherry. It’s fresh, tangy and lively on the palate with a profusion of red fruit to the fore—racy cranberry and lively red cherry—adorned with mixed spice and hints of tobacco leaf. Mid weight and silky smooth, the aftertaste is dry and lip-smacking good. Give it a go alongside pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
Fonseca ‘Guimarens’ Vintage Port 2005
DO Douro, Porto $73.95 (123695) 20.5% alcohol
Spice-filled aromas of black plum and Mentholatum herald warm, rich flavours of black currant, juicy black cherry and mint. It’s mid weight with a creamy smooth mouth feel and a lingering luscious aftertaste, balanced and bolstered by supple tannin and ripe, concentrated, dark berry fruit. Drink now to 2022.
La Chablisienne ‘Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru’ 2010
AOC Chablis $29.95 (656835) 13.0% alcohol
Lemon-lime, mineral tones and pit fruit on the nose, it sprays the palate with key lime and lemon tang with lemon pith on the finish. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel. This is textbook Chablis—a perfect aperitif to get the gastric juices flowing or pour with freshly shucked, briny oysters garnished with Tabasco and freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine LaTour-Giraud ‘Cuvée Charles Maxime’ Mersault 2010
AOC Meursault $44.95 (299784) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of citrus, flinty/slate and toasty notes provide segue for a firm and focused river of white grapefruit and lemon tang on the palate. There are lip-smacking citrus qualities extending through the crisp, refreshing aftertaste interlaced with undertones of succulent white peach and green apple. Pour with grilled Red Snapper (Vic Harradine)
Château le Caillou 1998
AOC Pomerol $49.95 (45682) 12.5% alcohol
A burnished, garnet hue, this Merlot-dominated blend offers attractive value. Evolved aromas of dried fruit, plum, earth, leather and cedar waft from the glass. Dry and medium bodied, it flows across the palate with a silky fresh texture. The flavours are subtle—dried cherries, plum, cedar and spice—while the tannin’s pliant and polished. Still fresh acidity persists through a mid-length finish. Sample on its own or savour with a light meat dish topped with sautéed, mixed wild mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)
Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $53.95 (700922) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of Asian spice, red cherry/berry and sprigs of garrigue intro this rich and robust GSM blend—75% Grenache, 10% each, Syrah, Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault. Old vines and extended maceration at work here, fashioning a gusher of palate-coating, dark, juicy berry fruit, tangy, Bing cherry and kirsch liqueur garnished with roasted herbs and bittersweet chocolate. It’s full bodied and fully textured finishing in a blaze of ripe fruit flavour. What a treat for that special someone to find this under the tree. (Vic Harradine)
Ornellaia ‘Le Serre Nuove Dell’Ornellaia’ 2010
DOC Bolgheri Rosso $59.95 (606194) 14.0% alcohol
Wood smoke, tar and powerful black currant aromas make a bold statement on the nose followed by a fleshy river of cassis, black plum compote and black briary berry interlaced with espresso roast and dried herbs swirling over the palate in layered waves. It’s mid-full weight with a tangy, juicy aftertaste that’s framed by good ripe fruit and underpinned by perceptible tannin. Pour 2015 to 2025.
Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $32.95 (208694) 13.7% alcohol
Aromas of pit fruit, lime and woodsy underbrush roll from this mid-full bodied, generously textured Chard. It’s focused and firm with a spine of tangy, taut lemon-lime acidity, white peach and green apple. It finishes lengthy and smoky with roasted herbs and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Aerate/decant an hour and pour with lemon veal. (Vic Harradine)
13th Street ‘Sandstone Old Vines’ Gamay Noir 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (130195) 13.0% alcohol
Racy and lively on the nose, there’s piquant spice, wood smoke and dark berry fruit galore. Spice-driven and tangy on the palate, there’s a profusion of racy red currant and sour cherry. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lengthy tart finish that’s underpinned by perceptible tannin and nuances of dried herbs. Pour alongside slow-roasted pork shoulder. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (033936) 13.0% alcohol
Golden-yellow-hued in the glass, toasty, smoky, orchard fruit aromas curl from this tangy, complex, smooth-as-silk Chardonnay. White peach and Granny Smith apple interweave with slate, tangy citrus and toasty notes on the palate and throughout the lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with baked lemon Sole. (Vic Harradine)
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $30.00 (033894) 12.5% alcohol
Savory herbs, tobacco leaf and cedar aromas herald a bracing spine of acidity with cranberry, pomagranate and red cherry to the fore. This is medium bodied with good texture and great focus and persistence through the lingering finsih. It’s dry with ripe strawberry, toasty notes and good grip on the aftertaste. Pour alongside Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)
Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Napa Valley $79.95 (119065) 14.8% alcohol
This top-drawer Napa Cab offers a complex nose of aromatic bitters, cola, sandalwood and tar. A full-bore tidal wave of flavour cuts a wide swath across the palate—cassis, briary berry, dark chocolate—with structure and complexity galore. It’s full bodied, generously textured with a lengthy finish that’s balanced and brimming with charm. Pick one up for someone special and hope they invite you to share—to be safe, pick up two. (Vic Harradine)
Cakebread Zinfandel 2009
Red Hills Lake County $39.95 (214031) 14.1% alcohol
Mixed spice, dark berry fruit, aromatic bitters and charry toast on the nose, this dishes up a tangy, racy river of briary berry, dark, bittersweet chocolate and black plum coating the palate, persisting through the lip-smacking finish. It’s mid-weight with good texture and some espresso roast and black currant peeking through on the aftertaste. There’s firm structure, supple tannin and complexity throughout. (Vic Harradine)
Jonata Todos Red 2008
Santa Ynex Valley, Santa Barbara $59.95 (218941) 14.7% alcohol
Rosewood, minerality, kitchen spice and fennel aromas provide a lovely entry to this Syrah-predominant, red blend. Layered waves of red berry fruit interlace with sweet, ripe boysenberry on the palate and the lengthy, balanced finish. It’s mid-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a generous dollop of ripe berry fruit on the tart, tangy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
La Crema Pinot Noir 2009
Anderson Valley $44.95 (72199) 14.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of fresh, lively aromas—sprigs of savory herbs, exotic spice and floral notes—provides segue for a hi-toned wash of red raspberry, strawberry and dark, juicy cherry bathing the palate in endless waves. Medium bodied with silky smooth texture, it’s structured, focused and long in the lip-smacking finish. There’s good balance with ripe fruit, good acidity and sweet tannin. Pour with duck confit. (Vic Harradine)
Charles Cimicky ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $36.95 (685594) 14.5% alcohol
Opening with a subdued nose of spice-laden dark berry fruit and espresso roast, this bathes the palate with a rich and concentrated wash of ripe mulberry, black plum compote and peppery spice. Mid-full weight and nicely textured, there’s good grip throughout. It finishes with a generous dollop of moderating acidity and grippy tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or tuck away 2014-2019. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier ‘Lieu Dit Malakoff’ Shiraz 2010
Pyrenees, Victoria $51.95 (290874) 14.0% alcohol
This is cool-climate-Victoria Shiraz fashioned from extremely low yields by Michel Chapoutier, who Robert Parker Jr. considers one of the best winemakers on the planet. Savory herbs, cedar and dark toast aromas provide segue to a firm and focused line of red fruit—racy red currant, tangy cranberry and sour cherry mingling with herbal notes. This is mid-weight with a tart, dry finish underpinned by still-resolving tannin. Pop the cork 2015. (Vic Harradine)
Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $64.95 (636407) 15.8% alcohol
Kitchen spice, cola and field berry fruit provide segue for a richly textured, complex and delicious river of warm, black plum compote, and black berry pie interwoven with spice, tangy currant and licorice. The extended finish is spice-laden and oozing dark berry fruit garnished with dark chocolate and roasted herbs. Good to go now with grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Catena Alta Malbec 2009
Mendoza $49.95 (982355) 14.0% alcohol
One of the top drops in the release, it’s a crowd pleaser with alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, cola and anise. Concentrated flavours of ripe briary berry and dark cherry interlace with espresso roast and dark, bittersweet chocolate bathing the palate and infusing the long, mouth-watering finish. There’s good complexity and structure coupled with a boatload of charm. Pour now with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Diamandes de Uco ‘Gran Reserva’ 2008
Mendoza $39.95 (295063) 14.5% alcohol
Concntrated, rich and deicious, this 85% Malbec - 15% Cab Sauv blend is outstanding. Inky-purple hued, it rips from the glass with aromas of dark toast, black licorice, mocha and mixed, dark, berry fruit. A rich and robust wash of ripe briary berry, juicy black cherry and spice-infused black plum coat the palate infusing the lingering, dry, structured finish. It’s medium-full bodied and balanced with good mouth feel, complexity and appeal. (Vic Harradine)
Boekenhoutskloof ‘The Chocolate Block’ 2010
WO Western Cape, South Africa $39.95 (129353) 14.5% alcohol
Primarily dry-grown, deep-rooted Syrah from Swartland along with carefully selected parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsault with a splash of Viognier, aromas of rose petals, mocha and spice-infused field berry jump from the glass. Plush, full bodied and flavour-laden—black currant, espresso roast and sweet ripe mulberry—this is well structured and deftly balanced throughout. There’s a good underpinning of ripe, fine-grained tannin and a lively juicy finish. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Fortified Wine
Poli Amaro
Italy $33.95 (662726) 700 mL 32.0% alcohol
Fashioned through a well-guarded, secret herbal-infusion to alcohol and grappa, then aged in oak barrels, this tasty digestif displays pronounced minty notes, subtle herbal aromas and a tantalizing hint of caramelized sugar. Powerful, rich and velvety, alluring notes of peppermint, recurring nuances of herbs and a subtle bitterness caress the palate leading to a mouth-cleansing finale. Savour and enjoy. (Susan Desjardins)
Honey Wine
Rosewood Mead ‘Royale’ 2008
Product of Canada $14.95 (296178) 500 mL 12.5% alcohol
Straw hued, the subtle aromas of this slightly sweeter mead include savoury, slightly pungent notes, honey and a floral note reminiscent of summer clover. Lush and silky in texture, the palate is elegantly restrained—preserved apricot, herbal notes and subtle honey flavours dominate. An intriguing marriage of a dry texture and sweet, tangy flavours, it works well between courses or after dinner with Canadian cheddar. (Susan Desjardins)
Sparkling Wine
Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry
DOC Prosecco $19.95 (729392) 11.5% alcohol
A tempting nose of floral and citrussy notes tingle the nose and provide a fitting entry to this very well-priced sparkler. Nothing complicated, but everything is in balance, from the frothy attack of tropical fruit flavours and lemon zest to the lovely tang of acidity on the finish. Serve well chilled to guests as a welcoming wine. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree White’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116) 13.0% alcohol
Mostly Chardonnay with aromatic whites, Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Chardonnay Musqué, it’s a salad bowl of aromas with rosewater, honeysuckle and pit fruit to the fore. Broad, balanced and beautiful, there are palate-bathing flavours of lemon curd, white nectarine and melon galore. It’s medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Well paced, well priced… delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree Red’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol
This fresh, juicy blend—primarily Shiraz with Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot—sports a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, rich cherry and roasted herbs. It rolls over the palate in endless, delicious waves with black plum and currant interlaced with boysenberry and spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced, fruit-laden finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Sonoma County $21.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol
Dark cherry aromas mingle with underbrush and earthy tones in this classy cellar dweller. Rich luscious cassis and juicy. black cherry wash over the palate adorned by dark toast and fennel. It’s mid-full weight with a fleshy round mouth feel and dry aftertaste underpinned by still-evolving tannin and gorgeous kirsch liqueur framed by good moderating acidity. Open 2015-2020. (Vic Harradine)
Seghesio Zinfandel 2010
Sonoma County $29.95 (942151) 14.8% alcohol
Expressive on the nose—Asian spice, charred toast and cola—it sings on the palate with a balanced, beautifully textured wash of red currant and Montmorency cherry interlaced with ripe, dark berry fruit. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a lengthy finish underpinned by supple tannin, framed by moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $19.95 (135202) 15.0% alcohol
Well paced, integrated and balanced, this is another substantial, inky red, with a fine underlying structure and oodles of flavour. Aromas and flavours reflect black berry and cherry, cedar, spice and nuances of earth and smoke. Dry, full bodied, the concentrated dark fruit and attractive nuances of oak aging rule from start to brooding finish. Fire up the Weber. (Susan Desjardins)
Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Maipu, Mendoza $17.95 (128629) 14.0% alcohol
Cherry, dark berry fruit and charred toast aromas prelude a tangy, juicy river of flavour with red cherry, briary berry and espresso roast leading the way. It’s mid weight and well textured sporting a lengthy, balanced finish of juicy cherry, blueberry and nutmeg. Pair with smoked, grilled back ribs slathered in BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Kim Crawford ‘Small Parcel Rise-and-Shine Creek’ Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago $29.95 (35337) 14.0% alcohol
Rise and shine indeed, this wine’s unique; it’s not your ‘typical’ Pinot Noir. Deep and inky in color with alcohol evident on pouring, the concentrated aromas are blackberry jam, boysenberry, sweet spice and subtle smokiness. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s supple, dense and intensely flavoured with some gentle acidity paired with the dark berry flavours. (Susan Desjardins)
South Africa: Red Wine
Hartenberg Shiraz 2007
WO Stellenbosch $34.95 (906289) 14.5% alcohol
Heavily perfumed, spiced and peppery aromas open this gloriously textured, fruit-laden beauty. Ripe, sweet mulberry, spiced plum and juicy black Bing cherry roll over the palate in soft waves. It’s medium bodied with a satin-smooth mouth feel and long aftertaste that layers on excellent, moderating, juicy acidity—red currant and sour cherry—providing a wonderful, balanced tasting experience; dare I say, yummy? (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Released Oct. 27, very good value. Solantico Salice Salentino ‘Riserva’ 2009
DO Salice Salentino $14.95 (289694) 13.0% alcohol
Inky purple in the glass, rich, spice-driven aromas of black plum, charry toast and ripe boysenberry fill the air. Mid-full weight with good texture, there’s a tangy river of red currant, racy red cherry and roasted herbs throughout. The lingering finish is full of nerve and verve and nicely balanced with ripe fruit and moderating acidity. This punches well above the price and pairs with burgers, pizza or grilled steaks. (Vic Harradine)
Talamonti ‘Tre Saggi’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (204016) 13.5% alcohol
This award-winner was hand harvested and aged 12 months in French oak. It offers an attractive value equation. Complexity on the nose recurs on the palate—ripe fruit, autumnal notes, vanilla, coffee bean and toast mingle to create interest and depth. The dark berry and cherry fruit is quite plush, the tannins soft, the acidity fresh, creating a dry, medium-full bodied wine with great balance and a touch of sweet vanilla on the lengthy aftertaste. Enjoy with herbed roast pork au jus. (Susan Desjardins)
Da Vinci Chianti 2010
DOCG Chianti $16.95 (171389) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of mixed spice, espresso roast and berry fruit provide entry to a focused river of tarry, black licorice and black plum garnished with wood smoke bathing the palate. It’s tangy, juicy, medium bodied and nicely textured with a fruit-laden, long, balanced aftertaste—red cherry and currants interwoven with spice-driven black plum and black currant. Good value. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages Essentials – always available in select stores.
St-Germain ‘Delice de Sureau’ Liqueur Artisanale
France $49.95 (180695) 20.0% alcohol
If your desire is to inspire and captivate, then this elderflower liqueur was crafted for you! First up, the bottle’s in an Art Deco style. Then there’s the process required to transform these ephemeral spring flowers into this exotic liqueur. Open, pour, and the aromas fairly leap from the glass—stone fruit, honeyed melon, expressive white floral notes and a hint of anise. It’s decadent, richly textured with aromas replaying on the palate augmented with a whiff of tinned apricots. All that rich flavour and texture is lovingly balanced with fine acidity. The warm finish is luscious and long lasting. Perfection on its own, but destined for martinis. (Susan Desjardins)
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $26.95 (986752) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of dried, crushed currant, dark cherry and cedar waft from this mid-weight, gutsy red. Ripe mulberry, red currant and juicy Bing cherry on the palate, the vibrant, dry aftertaste layers on a perceptible tannin underpinning and tangy acidity coupled with flavours of char and espresso roast. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and serve with lamb tagine or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Château Pipeau 2009
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $34.95 (302018) 13.5% alcohol
This is opaque in the glass with smoky, tarry, pipe tobacco aromas heralding rich, luscious flavours of cassis, black berry and sweet, ripe mulberry interweaving with racy red currant. It’s mid-full bodied with fleshy mouth feel and a balanced lengthy finish underpinned by perceptible, unresolved tannin. Aerate/decant three, full hours and serve with grilled, rare strip loin or wait and pour 2014-2024.
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Beaujolais Nouveau Release: November 15, 2012
Reif Estate ‘The Fool’ Gamay Nouveau 2012
VQA Niagara River $10.75 12.0% alcohol
A fun wine for a pittance, only fools pass it up. Oodles of savory spice, dark grapey notes and hi-toned cloves on the nose, it sprays the palate with racy, tangy, red currant, cranberry and pomegranate flavour—this was made for a deli board of stinky cheese, spicy olives and smoked meat with an Ace-bread baguette—give it a go. (Vic Harradine)
Classics On-line: March 18, 2013
Viña Cousiño-Macul ‘LOTA’ 2007
Maipo Valley, Chile $86.00 14.0% alcohol
Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Merlot, this was hand harvested, cluster selected spending 15 months in 85% new French oak. Cedar, black plum and dark briary berry on the nose, it’s robust and rich on the palate washing in endless waves of—cassis, kirsch liqueur and dark black cherry. Complex, well structured and graceful, it’s medium-full bodied with a round, silky texture and lingering aftertaste of ripe mulberry and black currant adorned with ripe, supple tannin. Drink now and for the next decade. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
winecurrent met and tasted with Arturo Cousiño, President and 6th generation of the family-controlled Viña Cousiño-Macul, in Toronto recently at Joe Badali’s Restaurant. Arturo spoke passionately of their total commitment to achieving a high standard of quality in all their wines and striving to consistently over-deliver on the price-quality ratio. This, he’s convinced, is why their brand is recognized and respected around the world. The wines tasted and reviewed easily stood up to the challenge. From the über-elegant ‘LOTA’, a project begun in 2003 to celebrate their 150th anniversary and soon to be released in Classics Catalogue (review immediately above), to the flavour-filled, value-laden Cabernet Sauvignon now available in the LCBO. You’ll notice that that 2009 and 2010 are both reviewed below as LCBO stores are just now introducing the 2010. Both are $2.00 off the price shown, now until Nov. 11th, making them
Viña Cousiño-Macul ‘Antiguas Reservas’ 2009
Maipo Valley, Chile $15.95 (212993) 14.7% alcohol
Aromas of red and dark cherry/berry and mixed spice mingle with savory herbs on the nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured red. A lively wash of red cherry and currant bathe the palate, infusing the dry, lengthy, tangy aftertaste. This was hand-harvested and aged a short time in French oak. Pour with meat-laden pizza or grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)
Viña Cousiño-Macul ‘Antiguas Reservas’ 2010
Maipo Valley, Chile $15.95 (212993) 14.2% alcohol
This dishes up a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, aromatic bitters and cola as segue to a rich-luscious river of juicy black cherry, blueberry and black currant. It’s balanced and beautiful with a mid-full body. There’s a silky smooth mouth feel and lively, juicy finish of cassis and spice-infused black plum, framed by good acidity, underpinned by a supple tannin structure—delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Calamus ‘Cosmic’ Red 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (258129) 12.7% alcohol
A blend of the Cabernets, Merlot and a dash of Pinot Noir, aged 22 months in French and American oak, this wine offers complex aromas—ripe, black fruits, earthy notes, capsicum and smoky spice. Dry, mid-weight, the perceptible tannin and fresh acidity underpin flavours of black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and toasty oak. A structured wine with a dry, spiced, tangy finish, it can be held a further 2-3 years or served with grilled steak or meaty lasagna. (Susan Desjardins)
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Estate’ Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (069336) 12.8% alcohol
Richly spiced aromas of floral notes and pit fruit waft easily from this balanced and beautiful, tangy Pinot Gris. Oozing nerve and verve, it races across the palate in a blaze of blood orange, white grapefruit and lemon zest. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and mouth-watering finish with a pleasant bite of lemon pith on the aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in this white wine. (Vic Harradine)
Grange of Prince Edward Trumpour’s Mill Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 (230227) 13.5% alcohol
Asian spice, dark toast and black berry aromas provide segue to a generous, spice-infused wash of tangy red currant and ripe, juicy cranberry bathing the palate. It’s dry with nice mouth feel and a lovely, lively and lingering aftertaste of spice-infused black plum, good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours to smooth everything out and pour with smoked duck breasts or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Bodega François Lurton Pinot Grigio 2012
Valle de Uco, Argentina $11.95 (556746) 13.0% alcohol
Pit fruit, floral notes and honeyed tropical fruit aromas spill from the glass. Delectable and lip-smacking good, it washes over the palate with flavours galore—ripe, tangy citrus, lively yellow plum and a salad bowl of tropical fruit—pineapple, honeydew melon and passion fruit. It’s balanced, beautiful and dripping with gorgeous fruit and great value. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Calamus ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 12.6% alcohol
Lifted floral notes escape from the glass, mingling with aromas of sweet orchard fruit and citrus. A touch off-dry, this wine is creamy, fruity and nicely balanced offering a hint of lees. Pear, peach and citrus flavours linger on the tasty, slightly pithy finish. Enjoy with roast pork or chicken. Order for home or office delivery from Calamus Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
Calamus ‘Calvin’s’ Cabernet 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.20 12.5% alcohol
A blend of the Cabernets, principally Cabernet Franc, this is a mellow, balanced, easy-drinking light-mid-weight red with silky tannin and mouth-watering, fresh acidity. Lovely spicy notes lift the aromas and flavours of red cherry/berry while a note of pepper expands through a tasty, fruit-filled finish. Offering good value, this wine can be enjoyed on its own or with casual fare. Order for home or office delivery from Calamus Estate Winery. (Susan Desjardins)
Reif Estate ‘The Hanging Man’ Kerner Nouveau 2012
VQA Niagara River $10.75 12.0% alcohol
Honeyed pit fruit, lanolin and floral notes on the nose, this idiosyncratic Kerner—aromatic German cross, Trollinger x Riesling—dishes up a glorious mouthful of ripe yellow peach and sweet nectarine mingling with tangy, peel marmalade that’s lip-smacking delicious. It’s medium weight with a silky smooth mouth feel and nicely balanced off-dry, freshly pressed grape aftertaste. Order for daily home or office delivery from Reif Estate. (Vic Harradine)
The Grange of Prince Edward Vineyards & Estate Winery is a study of contrast. Prince Edward County (PEC) is a nascent VQA wine region while the winery, with its circa 1826, restored barn, sits on land granted to United Empire Loyalists who arrived in the late 1700’s. Caroline Granger, owner, winemaker, vine planter and tractor driver began her career living in Paris, gracing the pages of Vogue magazine as a fashion model. Her first crack at planting vines on her own property was 2001, this planting resulted in the 2003 Trumpour’s Mill Gamay Noir—PECs first Ontario award-winning wine. She received a round of applause from Niagara winemakers present at the awards.
That was then, this is now. As Caroline puts it, “It went from hayfields to 60 acres of productive vineyards; it was such a big undertaking.” Producing well over 10 000 cases annually, the line-up includes sparkling, dessert and table wine with enough fruit from their own vineyards to produce estate-only wine. When pressed for what she saw in the future, she easily enumerated the following, “We’ll be moving the farm into a new model for agricultural production with a view to improving our sustainability over the next five years including the development of a market garden which will supply food for both visitors and employees alike as well as providing us with inputs for preserving. Decreasing the amount of spray we use by 25 per cent by introducing biodynamic techniques for improved vine health and introducing new crops to our total output.
As you’ll see, and taste, from the wines below, her wines have become sophisticated, complex and well-structured gems delivering great value and oodles of pleasure. You wouldn’t go wrong picking up a few from the winery or your local LCBO.
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Limited Edition - Sparkling Wine’ Riesling 2010
Prince Edward County $24.95 11.7% alcohol
This is hi-toned, lively and delicious and the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour—it’s off-dry and brimming with delectable flavour. Sealed by crown cap, lively aromas of slate/mineral, citrus, apple and biscuit waft from the bottle. Crisp, refreshing waves of green apple, lemon-lime, minerality and grapefruit interweave with a solid stripe of ripe pit fruit—nectarine and white peach—carried along on a profusion of tiny-bead bubbles. Available only at the Grange winery cellar door. (Vic Harradine)
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $16.00 12.7 % alcohol
This opens with a fairly quiet nose of cedar and white flowers followed by a
wash of lemon-lime, blood orange and slate/mineral flavours that spread over the palate on a good spine of racy acidity. Full of nerve and verve throughout, the racy mouth-watering aftertaste finishes in a blaze of Granny Smith apple and lemon zestiness. Pour alongside pan-seared tilapia under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Single Vineyard - Fume Blanc’ 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 13.0% alcohol
Honeysuckle, cedar and herbaceous aromas provide segue for a tangy, racy, river of key lime, minerality and blood orange. It’s medium bodied with very good texture and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste layering on ripe, pit fruit and nuances of green herbs. A riveting spine of acidity provides focus while the pit fruit balances the flavours nicely. Pair with prawn ceviche. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Estate’ Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (069336) 12.8% alcohol
Richly spiced aromas of floral notes and pit fruit waft easily from this balanced and beautiful, tangy Pinot Gris. Oozing nerve and verve, it races across the palate in a blaze of blood orange, white grapefruit and lemon zest. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and mouth-watering finish with a pleasant bite of lemon pith on the aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche or mussels steamed in this white wine. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.Port Wine
Bulas ‘10 Year-old Tawny’ Port
DO Porto, Douro, Portugal $27.95 20% alcohol
Tawny-reddish hued, look for fig, raisin and piquant spice on the nose of this lively and fresh gem. Spice-driven caramel, sweet treacle and green tea flavours interweave with spirited red cherry and sweet mulberry on the palate. It’s mid weight with persistent, focused flavours and a balanced, beautiful aftertaste of dried fruit and warm crème brulée. Very good value, pouring well with fruit flan and soft cheese. (Vic Harradine)
Bulas ‘20 Year-old Tawny’ Port
DO Porto, Douro, Portugal $49.95 20% alcohol
A slight tinge of green on the outer rim attests to lengthy barrel ageing; mellow aromas of toffee, desiccated pit fruit and spun sugar abound. It’s mid-full bodied showering a glorious wash of palate-bathing, spiced, dried fruit, sweet peach crumble and pecan pie across the palate in waves. The lingering aftertaste brims with charm—it’s spice-driven ambrosia. Good to go on purchase with crème caramel or aged Gouda. (Vic Harradine)
Bulas ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port
DO Porto, Douro, Portugal $27.95 20% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, spiced black plum and cola aromas rip from the nose while ripe, robust and rarin’ to go flavour spills over the palate with ripe black currant, spicy, sweet mulberry and tangy, juicy black Bing cherry to the fore. The rich, balanced aftertaste dishes up notes of toast and roasted herbs with good grip and replays of rich, spice-laden, fruit flavour. Pour with Stilton or Benedictine Blue. (Vic Harradine)
Bulas Vintage Port 2009
DO Porto, Douro, Portugal $49.95 20% alcohol
There are kirsch liqueur, cherry cordial and exotic spice aromas on the nose providing segue to an absolute divine gusher of concentrated, sweet black cherry, ripe mulberry and cassis coating the palate, infusing the lengthy finish. It’s full bodied, fully textured and loaded down with spice-laden flavour, perceptible tannin, structure and complexity. Drinking well 2013 – 2025. (Vic Harradine)
Table Wine
Bodegas Bagordi ‘Navardia’ ‘organic viticulture’ Graciano 2009
DOCa Rioja, Spain $14.95 14.5% alcohol
Floral, red cherry and pipe tobacco on the nose, it’s rich and delectable cutting a swath across the palate with well-balanced, luscious, juicy black cherry, ripe boysenberry and tangy black currant. Mid weight with a silky smooth mouth feel it finishes fruit-laden, nicely structured, oozing with charm and ageability. Drink now to 2017 with grilled lamb tenderloin. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Greenpiper ‘Night Harvest – Bronze Label’ Shiraz 2009
Western Australia $18.75 14.0% alcohol
This is layered, balanced and well structured, showcasing good value, mouth-watering, dark fruit tang and a lengthy aftertaste. Aromas of dark toast, field berry fruit and espresso roast herald a wash of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark cherry mingling with eucalyptus and nuances of black pepper. Medium-weight and nicely textured, persistent and focused flavours wash in waves. (Vic Harradine)
Viñedos Real Rubio ‘M. Luz’ 2011
DOCa Rioja, Spain $12.25 12.0% alcohol
Citrus, straw and yellow plum aromas spill from this racy, tart Spanish blend—50% Viura, 20% Verdejo, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Chardonnay. A spirited and lively wash of lemon-lime and white grapefruit mingle with lemon pith and oaky notes on the palate. It’s medium bodied with an über-dry finish that sports an aftertaste of lemon zest and oaky notes. (Vic Harradine)
Viñedos Real Rubio ‘Selección’ Rioja 2011
DOCa Rioja, Spain $13.95 13.0% alcohol
Lively, spirited aromas of black currant, Asian spice and new leather rip from the glass of this concentrated, well-balanced and fruit-laden gem. Rich, tangy flavours of red currant and juicy black cherry wash over the palate and replay on the robust finish. It’s medium weight and texture with an aftertaste of dark toast and red cherry underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring with red pizza, gourmet burgers or sausage, especially chorizo. (Vic Harradine)
Viñedos Real Rubio ‘Viticultural Ecológica’ Tempranillo-Graciano 2011
DOCa Rioja, Spain $13.75 13.0% alcohol
This organic red blend dishes up a boatload of charm and a complex nose—rosewood, underbrush, savory herbs and dark berry fruit. A luscious, concentrated stream of juicy, dark cherry and spiced black currant coats the palate with good structure and deft balance. It finishes with a surge of ripe, fruit flavour, excellent moderating tang and oodles of spice—it was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)
Viñedos Real Rubio ‘Crianza’ Rioja 2009
DOCa Rioja, Spain $16.90 13.5% alcohol
Aromatic on the nose with exotic spice, toasty oak and sandalwood, it coats the palate with rich, luscious flavours of chewy, black, briary berry and dark Bing cherry interwoven with charred toast and tangy black currant. It’s round and robust with loads of mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish garnished with good tang and a supple tannin structure. Pair with grilled rib eye or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)
Order the following by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts via email at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
Egri Korona Borház ‘Egri’ Cabernet Franc 2009
Product of Hungary $13.25 13.5% alcohol
Earthy aromas of truffles, wood smoke and underbrush provide segue to a tart, juicy wash of ripe mulberry and racy red currant with a solid underpinning of still-resolving tannin throughout. The finish dishes up sour cherry and red berry fruit in a mouth-watering, dry aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours pouring alongside chicken paprikash with spaetzle. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic