October 24, 2012 Newsletter
Shirley-Ann George of ‘Free My Grapes’ fame, was a driving force behind the Private Member’s Bill C-311—sponsored by Dan Albas, MP for Okanagan-Coquihalla—and its successful passage in the House. The bill sought unfettered passage and transport of wine by individuals between Provinces. So… the fight’s over, right? Hardly begun, reports Susan Desjardins, as she spoke with Shirley-Ann recently in Ottawa at a National Capital Sommelier Guild event. Read more from Susan…
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Exceptional value wines – eight wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’ found in various sections ranging from $11.95 to $22.95. - Finding Waldo –
@ $12.95 plus an Aussie Red 
@ $22.95 - Featured Ontario Wineries – Château des Charmes and Konzelmann—both found in the ‘New in the LCBO Portfolio’ section.
You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. The stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then.
Vintages Release: October 27, 2012
The Main Release
Champagne
Moët & Chandon ‘Brut Grand Vintage’ Champagne 2002
AOC Champagne $81.95 (69773) 12.5% alcohol
Toasty, leesy, citrus aromas introduce this top-drawer selection that’s just beginning its long journey toward optimum drinking. There’s a profusion of bubbles carrying zesty citrus, crisp, green apple and racy white grapefruit flavours. It’s astringent for now, needing a few years to flesh out and develop those desirable autolytic characters. Cellar until 2015 then enjoy for the following ten or so years. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Gloria Ferrer ‘Sonoma Brut’ Sparkling Wine
Sonoma County $26.95 (192898) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a pretty peachy-pink tinge to this golden wine with appealing aromas of bread yeast, toasted nuts, ripe orchard fruit and citrus that carry through on the palate. Bright and fresh on the attack, it’s dry and mid weight with an impressive creamy mousse that reflects its effervescent character. Lively on the finish, it’s a great wine to whet your appetite. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
Mike Weir Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (686972) 12.5% alcohol
Savoury herbs, passion fruit and nettles on the nose, it showers the palate with sweet, ripe fruit—pear and apple—mingling with tangy lemon-lime and racy white grapefruit with hints of pineapple. Mid weight and nicely textured the finish is crisp and refreshing ending in a blaze of mouth-watering tang. This pours well alongside grilled prawns or calamari rings showered in freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
Malivoire ‘Albert’s Honour Old Vines’ Foch 2010
VQA Ontario $24.95 (551036) 13.0% alcohol
Rich, dark, dusty aromas—dark berry fruit, spice, underbrush and savory bits—introduce luscious flavours of black currant and black Bing cherry mingling with herbaceous tones and tangy red currant. It’s robust and rarin’ to go sporting a lengthy finish of dark, concentrated berry fruit, structure and supple tannin framed by lip-smacking acidity. Pour alongside grilled rib eye or a thick, juicy, medium-rare T-bone. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan: White Wine
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Pinot Gris 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (537076) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, luscious aromas of pit fruit, toast and leesy notes waft easily from this mid weight, gorgeously textured Gris. It’s rich and balanced dishing up a river of succulent white peach, crisp apple and racy, lemon citrus. It finishes lengthy, crisp and refreshing with structure and a caseload of charm. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Ironstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
California $17.95 (537597) 13.5% alcohol
Ironstone rarely disappoints—this is particularly rich and concentrated. Dark briary berry and cherry aromas replay on the palate with palate-coating rush of black currant, sweet boysenberry and juicy Bing cherry garnished with toasty notes and spice-box flavours. This is medium-full bodied and generously textured with a balanced finish that’s loaded down with spice, dark cherry and black plum compote. Pour alongside grilled hangar steak. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Viña Alicia `Paseo de Piedra` Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Luján de Cuyo $19.95 (177980) 14.5% alcohol
Softly structured, this is a fruit-forward wine that’s laden with plush ripe dark berry fruit, notes of spice, cedar and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, and approachable, the tangy warm fruity finish lingers. A good match for lamb with balsamic reduction. (Susan Desjardins)
Clos de Los ‘Siete’ 2009
Mendoza $21.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol
The ubiquitous Michel Rolland, of ’Mondovino’ fame, or infamy, is involved with this winery—he are Robert Parker are often credited, or blamed, with consumers’ love of über-fruit-laden red wines. Blueberry, dark berry fruit and Asian spice aromas herald rich, luscious palate-coating flavours of cassis, briary berry and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel and a lingering finish garnished with good moderating acidty and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Trapiche ‘Fincas Las Palmas’ Malbec 2007
Uco Valley, Mendoza $17.95 (186668) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a beautiful bouquet with espresso roast, black licorice and wisps of cedar mingling with various dark berries and spice. The palate’s bathed with dark, rich briary berry laced with lively, racy red currant and nuances of cranberry. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a tangy, balanced aftertaste and a ripe tannin underpinning. Good to go with beef fajitas or chili con carne. (Vic Harradine)
Chile: Red Wine
Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Pinot Noir 2010
DO Casablanca Valley $14.95 (37937) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of cedar, forest floor and sprigs of dried herbs set the stage for a light-on-its-feet, firm and focused line of tangy, savory flavours—red currant and cranberry framed by tomato leaf and mixed herbs. Best poured with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Santa Carolina ‘Reserva de Familia’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
DO Maipo Valley $17.95 (684597) 14.5% alcohol
Showing a big masculine character, this dense wine delivers warm aromas of cedar, rich ripe flavours—cassis to the fore—and a dash of spice. Dry and full bodied with grippy tannin and fresh acidity framing well-ripened black fruit, smoky, toasty notes add complexity. The finish is long and tinged with a note of espresso. Offered in environmentally friendly, light-weight glass, this wine pairs well with barbequed meats or grilled Portobello mushrooms with balsamic dressing. (Susan Desjardins)
Australia: Red Wine
Majella ‘The Musician’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2010
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (142018) 14.5% alcohol
Black pepper, toast and cedar on the nose, this delivers a good balance of tangy red fruit, moderating acidity and tannin. Red cherry and pomegranate spill over the palate riding a wave of zesty acidity underpinned by ripe, soft tannin. It finishes dry, juicy and mouth-watering. (Vic Harradine)
Following offered in Gift Pack with 2010 Shiraz
Mitolo ‘Jester’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
McLaren Vale $21.95 (43224) 14.9% alcohol
Twenty percent of the hand-picked fruit was air-dried for 8 weeks, adding depth and texture to this ripe well-crafted Cab. A subtle earthiness and scent of spiced rose underlies the ripe berry fruit and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied and generous, the well-integrated tannins and refreshing acidity provide balance to the ripe spice-infused fruit. Long, fresh spicy on the finish, it’s looking for a nice juicy steak. (Susan Desjardins)
New Zealand: Red Wine
Alpha Domus ‘The Barnstormer’ Syrah 2010
Hawkes Bay, North Island $22.95 (303396) 13.5% alcohol
Wow! From a fabulous, family-owned and operated winery, this flies well below the radar, see logo on label, offering excellent value and gorgeous mouthfuls of delicious red wine. Luscious, palate-bathing flavours of tangy red cherry, ripe, sweet mulberry and bittersweet chocolate mingle with black pepper and spice. Mid weight with silky-smooth mouth feel, it’s structured, balanced and brimming with charm. Pick up a few, drinking now to 2016. (Vic Harradine)
Hunter’s Pinot Noir 2010
Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (586115) 13.5% alcohol
Savory spice and red berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a firm and focused stream of tangy, racy red currant and sour cherry mingling with beet root and exotic spice flavour. Its light-mid weight with a lively finish including sliced fresh strawberry, wisps of tannin and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $9.95 375 mL (160085) 13.0% alcohol
Sporting a very expressive nose this rips from the glass with oodles of perfumed aromas—toast, sweet vanilla, pit fruit and spice. There’s a steady wash of apple pie spice, orchard fruit and minerality on the palate and surging through the aftertaste interlaced with nuances of oak, minerality and a citrus bite on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc 2011
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (224428) 13.5% alcohol
There’s plenty to like here with good fruit and a solid line of excellent acidity throughout. Passion fruit and citrus on the nose, this bursts on the palate with tangy gooseberry, racy citrus and tropical fruit galore. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a long, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Give it a go with chèvre crumbled over arugula. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Meerlust Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch $29.95 (283390) 14.5% alcohol
Dusty, earthy, rich black currant aromas spill from this medium-full bodied, rich and densely structured, cellar dweller. Only free-run juice used then aged 18 months in French oak, 80% new, 20% 2nd fill. Juicy and tangy on the palate, look for racy red currant, bright red cherry and black plum compote plus a perceptible tannin underpinning right through the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. This has a solid core of ripe, juicy fruit, good acidity and years ahead of it—pop corks 2014 to 2018 for optimum enjoyment. Bravo. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2009
AOC Chablis $19.95 (41780) 12.7% alcohol
A clean, clear gold, this wine offers mingling aromas of citrus, orchard fruit and flinty minerality. Dry, mid weight and finely balanced, it has a lovely round, full texture. Crisp acidity builds on the palate, carrying tangy pithy citrus and crisp green apple flavours through a lasting, palate-cleansing finish. Try it with Coquille St-Jacques or cellar short term. (Susan Desjardins)
Mas des Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ Blanc 2011
AOC Costières de Nîmes $14.95 (701094) 13.5% alcohol
This multi-blend gem—Grenache Blanc, Roussane, Marsanne, Viognier—ladles out fruit-laden flavour, deft balance and a lengthy, luxurious finish. Aromas of floral notes, nectarine and citrus provide segue for a palate-bathing rush of pit fruit and lemon-lime garnished with kitchen spice. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and blessed with a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Very good value and simply delicious. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château de Cruzeau 2009
AOC Pessac-Léognan $27.95 (966473) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring, fresh, lively aromas of red cherry/berry, red licorice and cedar abound. It’s medium bodied, round and satin smooth with a focused, persistent wash of red currant and sour cherry interlaced with sweet, ripe mulberry and wisps of toasty oak. It finishes lengthy, replaying the flavours found on the palate. Pour with cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Château Sénéjac 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc $28.85 (193177) 13.5% alcohol
Cedar, charred toast and blueberry aromas herald a juicy, structured wash of red and dark fruit—red cherry, cranberry and black plum compote mingling with black licorice and black plum compote. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a long aftertaste garnished with a solid fruit core garnished with ripe tannin and lots of charm. Pour with rack of lamb and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Clos de Moiselles ‘Le Bord’eaux’ 2009
AOC Côtes de Bourg $16.85 (191528) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed field berry fruit and wisps of oak on the nose, it dishes up a tangy, racy line of red currant and sour cherry with nuances of fennel and espresso roast. There’s good texture and sense of purpose with flavours replaying on the finish bolstered by grainy tannin and sprigs of savoury herbs. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Les Pensées de Pallus Cabernet Franc Chinon 2009
AOC Chinon $21.95 (123893) 13.0% alcohol
This sports a quiet nose of toast, mixed spice and mixed, field-berry fruit. A surge of fresh, lively flavours form a persistent wash of sour cherry, roasted herbs and sweet, ripe mulberry. Nicely textured with good weight and balance, it delivers a lovely finish of red berry/cherry garnished with excellent moderating acidity and a boatload of charm. Por with grilled, cedar-planked salmon or Tuna. (Vic Harradine)
Hecht & Bannier Minervois 2010
AOC Minervois $19.95 (17764) 14.5% alcohol
Light and airy aromas of floral and spice provide segue to a gorgeous river—full of nerve and verve—of tangy red cherry and berry fruit with cranberry and red currant to the fore. It’s light-mid weight with a lingering finish underpinned by perceptible tannin, fennel and mixed herbs along with a replay of those red berry flavours. Good to go after a three-hour decant poured with pasta in tomato sauce or red pizza with salami and fresh tomato. (Vic Harradine)
Delas Frères ‘Saint-Esprit’ Côtes du Rhône 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (729962) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe, dark, juicy fruit and Asian spice rip from the glass of this great-value red blend—primarily Syrah with Grenache. A persistent, focused stream of sour cherry and ripe blueberry interlace with tangy red currant and espresso roast over the palate and through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and worth picking up a few. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $34.95 (33498) 14.5% alcohol
Complex roasted herbs, cedar, mixed spice, licorice and underbrush aromas open this rich and robust gem. There’s a gusher of palate-coating, structured flavour—red cherry and dark berry, mocha and toasty notes. It’s mid-full bodied, nicely textured sporting a long lively aftertaste laced with racy pomegranate and cranberry underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with a rich, hearty stew like osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release, November 10, 2012
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree Red’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (247882) 13.5% alcohol
This fresh, juicy blend—primarily Shiraz with Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot—sports a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, rich cherry and roasted herbs. It rolls over the palate in endless, delicious waves with black plum and currant interlaced with boysenberry and spice. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a balanced, fruit-laden finish. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Family Tree White’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (251116) 13.0% alcohol
Mostly Chardonnay with aromatic whites, Gewürztraminer, Viognier and Chardonnay Musqué, it’s a salad bowl of aromas with rosewater, honeysuckle and pit fruit to the fore. Broad, balanced and beautiful, there are palate-bathing flavours of lemon curd, white nectarine and melon galore. It’s medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Well paced, well priced… delicious. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: January 13, 2013
Sanford Chardonnay 2010
Sta. Rita Hills, California $31.95 (956003) 14.2% alcohol
Hand picked, barrel fermented with full malolactic conversion, this dishes up a complex, structured mouthful of beautifully balanced Chardonnay. Vanilla, slate, tropical fruit and apple pie spice aromas provide segue to a river of succulent white nectarine, crisp, green apple and tropical fruit mingling with nutty notes and tangy lemon and orange zest. It’s mid-full weight and fully textured with a crisp, refreshing aftertaste of ripe melon and citrus. (Vic Harradine)
Domini Veneti ‘Vignete di Torbe’ Ripasso 2010
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Italy $19.95 (303537) 13.5% alcohol
A lifted nose of fig, dark berry fruit with hints of tar open this flavour-laden gem. A spirited wash of juicy, black, dark Bing cherry and black currant interweave with tobacco leaf and black licorice on the palate and through the lingering, lip-smacking finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured offering excellent value and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: January 19, 2013
Mission Hill ‘Family Estate’ Quatrain 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $44.95 (218636) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Merlot, Syrah and the Cabernets is composed of parcels of the estate’s best south-Okanagan fruit, fermented separately, aged in French oak. Highly aromatic and intense, the nose offers boysenberry, black cherry, spiced floral notes, and sweet cedar. Built on a firm frame, this dry, full-bodied blend delivers depth and complexity, flavours of cassis, black plum, spice and herbs with notes of toast carrying through the long finish. Serve with robust meat dishes; drink now to 2019. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong Merlot 2008
Sonoma County, California $21.95 (497933) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice and black plum aromas on the nose, the palate’s bathed in endless waves of rich, silky-smooth cassis, kirsch liqueur and blueberry interwoven with roasted herbs and mocha. It’s mid weight with a lengthy, balanced, aftertaste of briary berry and juicy black cherry underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Pour now with slow-roasted pork or rare-grilled skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Markham Merlot 2009
Napa Valley, California $31.95 (738740) 14.2% alcohol
Charred toast, blueberry and mixed red cherry/berry aromas herald a rich and silky-smooth wash of black, juicy cherry and kirsch liqueur mingling with espresso roast and cassis. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a robust finish with good fruit, excellent moderating acidity and an underpinning of still-resolving tannin. Pour 2015 to 2019. (Vic Harradine)
Mission Hill ‘Family Estate Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley $22.95 (553321) 13.5% alcohol
Dark-ruby hued, barrel fermented and aged 13 months in French and American oak, this offers complex aromas including notes of dried herbs and flowers, cassis, tobacco and cedar. Dry, full bodied, the perceptible tannin offers fine structure for the intensely flavourful spiced, dark fruit, layered with subtle nuances of earth and spice. Mouth-wateringly good, it finishes long, dry and full flavoured. Savour now with roast lamb or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Mike Weir Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (00075) 13.0% alcohol
Dry and mid weight, this is nicely balanced with delicate aromas and well-defined flavours of tasty red and black berries mingling with sweet spice and an underlying earthy note that lingers through the finish. It’s fresh, lively and slightly peppery, a good match for farfalle with duck and arugula. (Susan Desjardins)
Mike Weir ‘10’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (229286) 12.0% alcohol
Here’s a versatile, little-black-dress Riesling that you can take anywhere! It’s dry, light-mid weight, and offers a pretty nose of lime, peach, pear and floral notes. Crisp acidity and tangy citrus fruit combine to create a juicy texture that offers a nice fresh finish. Great balance, great value. (Susan Desjardins)
Mike Weir ‘Méthode Traditionelle’ Sparkling Brut 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (187294) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with a fine frothy mousse, this is a well crafted, dry, rich sparkling wine. Aromas of yeast, citrus and vanilla pear custard tantalize. The texture’s clean and creamy while flavours of lemon chiffon, pear, toasted nuts and brioche delight the palate. Finishing fresh and flavourful, the flavours of ripe, orchard fruit provide lingering pleasure. Sip to savour. (Susan Desjardins)
Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2009
Sonoma County $20.95 (226936) 13.5% alcohol
Spice, pit fruit and sweet vanilla on the nose, it coats the palate with a mouthful of delectable, ripe peach, crisp Granny Smith apple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s balanced and beautiful sporting a creamy texture and good weight, finishing in a blaze of ripe fruit and good, balancing citrus tang. Pour with rotisserie-roasted chicken or pan-seared tilapia. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir 2010
Sonoma County $24.95 (954834) 14.5% alcohol
This is a bold, substantial Pinot, showcasing wonderful warm aromas of ripe raspberry, cherry, sweet spice and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s round and smooth on the palate, spice and pepper coming through, mingling with lush red fruits. The powerful flavours and warmth linger on the fruit-filled, spicy finish. Serve with beef tenderloin with a mushroom sauce. A Vintages Essentials product, this wine is always available in select LCBO stores. (Susan Desjardins)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Brumont Gros Manseng-Sauvignon 2011
IGP Côtes de Gascogne $12.95 (297734) 12.5% alcohol
Coming to the LCBO, possibly December—the best-selling French white wine in the SAQ. Gros Manseng, a little-known grape, is grown principally in SW France. Vic and I loved it; enjoy fairly intense floral aromas and scents of stone fruit and lemon-lime. Dry and light-mid weight, it’s round, smooth and lively with notes of citrus, ripe apple and a clean, crisp, lemon pith finish. Try it with your favourite seafood. (Susan Desjardins)
Château des Charmes – The adventure for the visitor begins in Niagara-on-the-Lake, driving down York Road with a stunning, Loire Valley-like Château looming ever larger, ever more grand. The adventure for the owners, the Bosc family, began in Algeria, eventually making their way to Canada and Niagara, purchasing land and planting vines in the 70’s at a vineyard which was to become the largest planting of vitis vinifera vines in Canada at the time. Going from strength to strength, they’re hardly a best-kept secret, their wines are acclaimed locally, nationally and internationally and Paul Bosc Sr. is a recipient of many honors and awards for his contributions to the wine industry including the Order of Ontario and the Order of Canada.
Family owned and operated, Madame Andrée Bosc, the congenial family matriarch, is involved with the executive decisions of the business and a true partner to Paul Bosc Sr. Their son, Paul-André is involved in the running of the winery and acts as Chair of the Canadian Vintners Association. His wife, Michèle, is their tireless Director of Marketing with myriad responsibilities from advertising and trade relations to handling their hospitality functions and guest experiences at the Château. The entire family lives their motto, ‘Making wine is not what we do, it’s who we are.’ And, the next generation has arrived. Michèle and Paul-André’s young son, Alex, can’t be too far away from making his mark on this thriving winery. The four wines reviewed below attest to why they thrive.
Château des Charmes Sparkling Brut Non-vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (224766) 13.0% alcohol
Trivial differences between this and Champagne other than one—this is one-third the price. It’s made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the traditional method and spent over 24 months in bottle on its lees. The fine-bead bubbles are persistent with the mouth-watering aftertaste flavour-laden, crisp and refreshing. The nose and palate are treated to a gorgeous attack of lemon-grapefruit citrus, baking brioche and succulent white peach. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled – Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (81653) 13.0% alcohol
Seeing Château des Charmes on the label, allows you to choose the wine with great confidence. A salad bowl of tropical fruit and floral notes on the nose herald nicely balanced, palate-bathing flavours of succulent white peach, green apple and lemon chiffon pie. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lengthy, lip-smacking, delicious finish. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (195511) 13.0% alcohol
Well priced; from one of Niagara’s elite producers. Aromas of exotic spice and herbs, cedar and spiced black plum presage a medium-bodied, creamy-textured river of Bing cherry, ripe black berry and racy cranberry to the fore. It showcases a balanced aftertaste that’s brimming with spiced, dark berry fruit, plummy notes and plenty of charm. This pours well alongside white pizza, roast chicken or smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (061499) 12.5% alcohol
This has incredible purity of fruit and over-delivers an all counts—mineral/slate, lemon-lime and whiffs of petrol introduce this gem. It’s tingling with acidity, dishing up a mouthful of crisp, white grapefruit and Granny Smith apple mingling with hints of white peach and nectarine. It’s deep-yellow hued, mid weight and surprisingly well textured, sporting a crisp, refreshing finish of lemon-lime tang and zest—it’s what dry Riesling aspires to be. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Cabernet-Merlot 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (504241) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and savory herb aromas mingle with briary berry on the nose. Rich, luscious mulberry and black pepper mingle with spice and dark plum on the palate. This is medium weight, nicely textured with a blaze of balanced ripe cherry/berry and mixed spice on the mouth-watering delicious aftertaste. There’s a lot going on, pick up a bottle; enjoy the show. Grilled rib eye and giant Portobellos match well. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Estate Winery – Herbert Konzelmann celebrates his 54th this year, his 54th year in the wine business. Prescient and an early adopter of the Niagara wine region and vitis vinifera vines, he formed his winery in the mid-eighties alongside others who also forged success in becoming the leaders and shakers in Niagara—Len Pennachetti of Cave Spring Cellars (1986) and Jim Warren of Stoney Ridge Cellars (1985).
Herbert is still going strong; winecurrent visited recently to find him handling a tractor amongst the vines. He’s been named winemaker of the year and has fashioned myriad wines garnering local, national and international awards, medals and acclaim. The public portion of the winery has undergone a dazzling remodeling making it a must-visit spot when in Niagara-on-the Lake. Not surprisingly, given his German roots, he excels with white varieties and Pinot Noir. Their mantra is ‘low-yield, high-quality premium wines’. A number are reviewed below with more than their fair share singled out as providing exceptional value.
Konzelmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (112946) 12.5% alcohol
Dill weed, roasted herbs and red berry fruit aromas waft from this mid-weight, mid-textured red. Tangy, crisp and lively, it showers the palate with sprigs of savory herbs interlaced with sour cherry and red plum. The aftertaste is dry and tangy with wisps of tannin and tobacco. Good to go now with spaghetti Bolognese decked with spicy Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Merlot 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (439281) 12.5% alcohol
Light-ruby hued, aromas of spiced berry fruit and black plum intro a light-on-its-feet wash of charred wood smoke interwoven with Montmorency cherry and red currant. It’s lightly textured with good balance and tangy moderating acidity and racy red fruit—cranberry and pomegranate—on the dry, crisp finish. Good to go now with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-layered pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (219279) 12.5% alcohol
Floral, citrus and honeyed pit fruit aromas on the nose, this gorgeously textured gem is off-dry and beautifully balanced throughout. Succulent white peach, crisp Granny Smith apple and ripe pineapple interlace with tangy lemon on the palate and the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. The perfect aperitif or welcoming wine, it pours well with chicken or veal in Madeira sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Pinot Noir ‘Spaetburgunder’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (200584) 12.5% alcohol
Hard to believe there’s this much flavour, balance, and pure imbibing pleasure for this mere pittance. Usually spelled, Spätburgunder, it’s German for Pinot Noir. Woodsy notes, ripe, red cherry and nuances of kirsch liqueur aromas herald a lovely mouthful of tangy black currant, sweet, ripe mulberry and spice-laden black plum. Its mid weight, nicely textured with a delectable aftertaste of red cherry and mulberry. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (200501) 11.5% alcohol
Ripe tropical fruit, lemongrass and zesty pineapple aromas precede a racy river of lemon-lime, white grapefruit and oodles of crisp Granny Smith apple bathing the palate infusing the refreshing, lengthy aftertaste. This is mid weight with good mouth feel brimming with excellent acidity and a boatload of charm. Balanced and beautiful, sip on its own or pour with pan-fried seafood or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann ‘fresco secco’ ‘Frizzante’ Riesling 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (193565) 12.0% alcohol
The term ‘frizzante’ refers to sparkling wine with less than half the atmospheres of pressure compared to Champagne or wines made méthode traditionelle. Honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas intro off-dry fizz and flavours—ripe pit fruit and melon mingling with tangy lemony notes and green apple. This is nicely balanced with good acidity and just the right amount of ripe fruit. It’s a bright and lively party starter made for fun and easy times. (Vic Harradine)
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery ‘Lady in Red’ 2010
VQA Ontario $14.95 (266486) 12.5% alcohol
This multi-blend red is primarily the two Cabernets with a splash of Pinot Noir and Merlot. Involved aromas of red cherry/berry, dark toast and mixed spice herald a light-medium-bodied, sweet, ripe wash of kirsch liqueur, briary berry and piquant spice. It dishes up a persistent and balanced finish that’s fruit-laden and garnished with a tangy bite on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Look for this in LCBO stores January 2013 Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery Riesling 2011
VQA Ontario $13.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and citrus herald a nicely focused stream of lemon tang and lime sherbet on the palate. It’s light-medium weight with good mouth feel and solid spine of acidity throughout. Look for lemon-lime citrus on the crisp, zingy aftertaste garnished with hints of blood orange and yellow plum. Pour alongside pan-seared prawns showered with freshly squeezed lemon. Order by the ‘three-bottle-minimum’ for daily home or office delivery from Sprucewood or via Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
For the following wines: Order by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. Ewald Gruber ‘Selektion - Hundspoint’ Grüner Veltliner 2011
DAC Weinviertel, Niederösterreich, Austria $17.80 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, white pepper and floral notes rip from this gorgeously textured, flavour-laden gem. A river of racy citrus, succulent white peach and ripe pineapple bathe the palate interlaced with peppery notes and lemon pith. Crisp and refreshing throughout, it finishes in a dry, lip-smacking blaze of lemon tang and mineral tones. Pair with grilled or pan-seared sea food. (Vic Harradine)
J.A.M. Bulas ‘Reserva’ Tinto 2008
DO Douro, Portugal $32.95 13.5% alcohol
Fashioned from Touriga Nacional, a top Portuguese red grape, then aged 12 months in French oak—simply delicious. Ripe fig, dark toast and rich, dark berry fruit aromas provide segue for a palate-bathing, sprightly wash of red cherry and juicy black currant. It’s well balanced, mid weight and nicely textured with a lingering, tangy aftertaste garnished with hints of black plum, supple tannin and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic