October 10, 2012 Newsletter
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:- Susan Desjardins –contributes a number of reviews throughout the newsletter.
- Exceptional value wines
– an embarrassment of riches with eleven wines identified—from $9.95 to $16.95. - Finding Waldo – a Pinot Gris from Alsace 4½ stars, $20.99 14.5% alcohol.
- Vic’s Picks – Arrocal 2009 4½ stars $16.95 Spain; Château des Charmes Sparkling Rosé 2009 4½ stars $28.95 VQA Niagara; Inniskillin ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011 4 stars $12.95 VQA Niagara; Cono Sur Viognier 2011 4½ stars $9.95 Chile.
- Sixty-plus wines – there are over 60 wines reviewed—trust you find a few that pique your interest, stay within your budget and match your palate!
October 13, 2012 Vintages Release
Feature: Aussie Artisans
Over the Shoulder Chardonnay 2011
Yarra Valley, Victoria $24.95 (285759) 12.3% alcohol
The cool-climate Yarra Valley had a hand in fashioning this light-on-its-feet Chardonnay. Aromas of smoke, toast and ripe orchard fruit provide segue for a beam of racy Granny Smith apple, lime and lemon zest. The finish layers on more crisp and racy acidity with wisps of toasty, nutty notes. (Vic Harradine)
Feature: Chile
Falernia ‘Reserva’ Syrah 2009
Elqui Valley $15.95 (208371) 14.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, black pepper and smoky notes provide intro to a focused line of tangy red berry fruit, tomato leaf and fennel on the palate. It’s medium bodied and racy throughout with a mid-length, drying finish sprinkled with herbs and spice underpinned by still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Dessert Wine: Sherry
Osborne Pedro Ximenez ‘1827’ Sweet Sherry
DO Jerez $17.95 (047944) 17.0% alcohol
Sherry conjures up images of ‘cooking sherry’ and tippling Aunt Matilda … pity. It’s a delicious, sophisticated, misunderstood wine and Sherry drinkers love it that way; it keeps the price ridiculously low. This is sweet, viscous and brimming with flavour and charm—toffee, nutty nuances and desiccated berry fruit interlaced with spice and raisins. It pours well on its own as the dessert or alongside blue cheese, custards or dark, spiced fruit cake. Pick up a bottle, serve chilled, let me know what you think. (Vic Harradine)
Champagne
Bollinger ‘Special Cuvée’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $69.95 (384529) 12% alcohol
Bollinger is often placed on a pedestal as one of the best 3 or 4 Champagnes available. Purchase this to discover why. The exact blend is always over half—approximately 60%—Pinot Noir with lesser amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunière. This accounts for the full-bodied and beautifully-textured house style. Expect a vigorous mousse attack - not with antlers, but rather the tingly effect when the bubbles hit your palate - a harbinger of brioche, citrus and green apple flavours. Sports a gorgeous finish with enough oomph for white meat dishes - veal or chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol
This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large, upscale gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $17.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol
An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)
Okanagan Valley: White Wine
Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (118638) 12.7% alcohol
Lovely aromas of spice, citrus and nectarine spill from this off-dry gem. It’s clean, crisp and refreshing throughout with flavours of lemon-lime and pit fruit washing over the palate. It’s mid weight with nice texture and a lingering, luscious finish of ripe melon and sweet-ripe peach interlaced with racy citrus. Exactly the sweet and tang, yin and yang needed to pair with spicy Asian cuisine or sashimi dipped in wasabi / soy sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Okanagan Valley: Red Wine
Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (585760) 13.5% alcohol
It’s hard not to like this, there’s a lifted nose of earthy tones, dark berry fruit and espresso roast followed by a tangy, juicy wash of red berry fruit and spice-laden black plum with oodles of excellent acidity. It’s mid weight with decent mouth feel and savory finish that’s laced with toasty oak and mixed spice. Good to go now with grilled, cedar-planked salmon. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Irony Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $19.95 (27409) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with subdued aromas of orchard fruit, kitchen spice and green apple, it shifts into gear on the palate with a silky-smooth wash of flavour—succulent white peach, ripe Mirabelle plum and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s mid weight with a lengthy aftertaste of zippy citrus and softer, ripe orchard fruit. Serve as a welcoming wine or with steamed crab or lobster dipped in clarified butter. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Belle Glos ‘Clark & Telephone Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara $39.95 (652883) 14.3% alcohol
Palate-coating, rich and concentrated, this dishes up an array aromas with dark berry fruit, tomato leaf, and juicy Bing cherry among them. There’s swashbuckling wave of potent flavours—sweet, ripe mulberry and black raspberry—that coat the palate infusing the lingering lengthy aftertaste. This is medium bodied and fully textured brimming with ripe fruit and loads of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $85.95 (943472) 15.4% alcohol
Glorious aromas of black berry, mocha and spice-infused cherry fill the air while complex, structured, palate-bathing waves of cassis, black currant and dark Bing cherry interlace with mint and earthy notes. It’s mid-full weight with silky-smooth texture and an aftertaste of monumental proportion layering on a solid tannin underpinning and excellent moderating tanginess. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: Red Wine
Luigi Bosca Syrah 2009
Finca El Paraiso, Maipú, Mendoza $17.95 (143412) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit, woodsmoke and toast on the nose, it rolls over the palate with red currant and cranberry mingling with spice and mocha flavours. Mid weight with silky smooth texture, it sports a fruit-filled finish with red berry fruit interwoven with savory bits and hints of tobacco leaf. Works well with pasta in tomato-based sauce or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Spice Route ‘Chakalaka’ 2009
WO Swartland $24.95 (160481) 14.5% alcohol
Chakalaka is an über-spicy relish made from a blend of South African spices. This über-spicy red is made from a blend of red grapes—37% Syrah, 21% Mourvèdre, 18% Carignan, 10% Petite Syrah, 10% Grenache and 4% Tannat—you get the idea. Concentrated, juicy and nicely balanced, spiced, dark berry fruit, fennel and dark coffee dominate the aromas and succulent flavours. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour this value packed, crowd-pleaser with grilled back ribs or meat-laden pizza (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 2011
AOC Chablis $20.95 (124305) 12.0% alcohol
Mineral, steely notes and citrus aromas on the nose introduce a line of lively, bracing flavours with white grapefruit, Meyer lemon—a little sweeter than what we purchase at the supermarket—and yellow plum. It’s medium bodied with nice texture and lingering, racy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Freshly shucked oysters with a squeeze of lemon and drop of Tabasco sauce works well. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château Bonnin Pichon 2008
AOC Lussac St-Émilion $16.95 (280008) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of spice cake, cedar, sweet cherry and charred toast herald a balanced and beautiful, structured, brimming-with-flavour wash of red currant, ruby red grapefruit and riper, darker, juicy cherry. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a long, charming, mouth-watering finish framed by good acidity underpinned by supple tannin. This’ll work well with those endless turkey leftovers. (Vic Harradine)
Bouchard Père & Fils Côte de Beaune-Villages 2010
AOC Côte de Beaune-Villages $24.95 (714998) 12.5% alcohol
Roses, earthiness, Asian spice and field berry fruit abound on the nose of this charming Pinot Noir. The palate’s treated to a firm and focused, balanced stream of ripe, red berry and red cherry fruit interlaced with spice. Medium bodied with nice texture, the dry, lip-smacking finish layers on ripe strawberry and blueberry notes. Nicely structured with enough tannin for interest and oomph, this pairs well with osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)
Cave de Rasteau ‘La Domelière’ Rasteau Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2009
AOC Rasteau Côtes du Rhône-Villages $15.95 (222927) 14.5% alcohol
In 2010, Rasteau gained full AOC status—scoop up a few while it’s still a bargain! This medium-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre is sweet and spicy with lovely aromas of dark fruit and licorice on the nose. Dry and silky textured, it’s structured and fruit-filled with dark berries, herbs and licorice notes riding a wave of fresh acidity braced with resolving tannin. Nicely balanced and showcasing heft and texture on the palate, pour with pasta in meat-based sauce or rich, beef stir fry. (Susan Desjardins)
Domaine Cazes Ego ‘Vielles Vignes’ Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2010
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $17.95 (77701) 14.5% alcohol
Underbrush, nutty notes and mixed field berry on the nose, this old vines, certified-bio-dynamic, GSM red blend—40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre—races over the palate with red berry and sour cherry mingling with savory herbs and spice. Mid weight and nicely textured, it sports a medium-length aftertaste wreathed with racy acidity bolstered by perceptable tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Cave de Rasteau Ortas ‘Prestige Rasteau’ 2007
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages $19.95 (985929) 14.5% alcohol
Tobacco leaf, floral and black pepper aromas precede a silky smooth, creamy river of piquant spice, black currant, cherry and plum on the palate and lengthy, lip-smacking, fruit-filled, balanced finish. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and plenty of charm. Give it a go with slow-rosted pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)
Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $32.95 (298612) 14.5% alcohol
There are floral, cedar, berry fruit and exotic spice aromas on the involved nose. Structured and balanced with a generous mouth feel, it washes the palate and infuses the lengthy finish with neverending waves of briary berry, juicy black cherry and cassis mingling with fennel, tobacco and cedar notes. The tannin’s supple and perceptible. Drinking well from 2016-2022. (Vic Harradine)
Château de Beaucastel ‘Coudoulet de Beaucastel’ 2010
AOC Côtes du Rhône $29.95 (48884) 14.0% alcohol
Spice, roses, berry fruit and dark toast on the nose, this delivers a racy, fresh wash of delicate flavour maturing on the palate into waves of red and dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and blueberry. It’s medium bodied with excellent mouth feel and a long, balanced and structured, lip-smackingly good aftertaste. The tannins are ever-present, but sweet and supple—could be drunk now after a two-hour aeration/decant, better 2015-2025. (Vic Harradine)
Jean-Luco Colombo ‘Les Fées Brunes’ Crozes Hermitage Syrah 2009
AOC Crozes Hermitage $24.95 (286351) 13.0% alcohol
Mint, floral notes, black pepper and plum aromas provide segue for a steady stream of sour cherry, aromatic bitters and red currant interlaced with spice and herbs. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a racy, tangy finish underpinned by supple tannin. Boeuf Bougignon pairs well. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Terra d’Aligi ‘Tolos’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $29.95 (19166) 14.5% alcohol
An involved and attractive bouquet with exotic spice, floral notes, dark berry fruit and prunes herald a hi-toned gusher of cassis, kirsch liqueur and cherry clafoutie. This is medium-full bodied, balanced, structured and brimming with delectable flavour throughout—it finishes lengthy and luxurious adorned by mocha and toasty notes. It punches well above the price with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo 2006
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (168179) 14.0% alcohol
Lilac, exotic spice and cherry/berry aromas waft from this mid-weight, nicely textured Nebbiolo. A fresh, sleek stream of sour cherry, sweet, ripe boysenberry and piquant spice bathes the palate. It finishes lengthy with mouth-watering tang, sprigs of dried sage and roasted herbs interweaving with ripe, dark berry fruit. There’s good moderating acidity and enough tannin for interest and structure. (Vic Harradine)
Gladiator Primitivo Di Manduria 2010
DOC Primitivo Di Manduria $16.95 (23119) 14.0% alcohol
Tobacco leaf, red berry fruit and black licorice abound on the lifted, perfumed nose. Deftly balanced and brimming with red berry and red cherry fruit, it’s medium weight with good mouth feel and very good value. It finishes lengthy with a mélange of mixed dark berry fruit, excellent acidity and oodles of charm. Good to go now with burgers, pizza or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Ornellaia ‘Le Volte’ 2010
IGT Toscana $29.95 (964221) 13.5% alcohol
Little brother to the über-expensive, super Tuscan, Ornellaia, this brims with rich, luscious flavour and good value. Primarily Merlot and Sangiovese, it ladles out aromas of red berry fruit, red licorice and cedar. Concentrated flavours coat the palate with cassis, black berry and cherry flavour galore. It’s medium weight with supple texture and a lengthy, balanced, lip-smacking finish of berry fruit, acidity and grainy tannin. Barely approachable now after a three-hour aeration/decant, try 2013-2017. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Arrocal 2009
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (67868) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of wood smoke, cedar and fennel mingle with cherry and dark berry fruit on the involved, perfumed nose. There’s a solid core of rich, luscious Bing cherry and black currant fruit, flavour mingling with spiced black plum and mocha on the palate and throughout the balanced and beautiful aftertaste. It’s mid weight and nicely textured, showcasing Tempranillo in a modern and delectable manner. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: November 24, 2012
Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2000
Porto, Douro, Portugal $79.95 (140277) 20% alcohol
This is a dazzling, unctuous, muscular Port from a great vintage reaching maturity circa 2025. Amazingly, it can be poured now after a four-hour aeration-decant. Black cherry, plum and spice on the nose, palate-coating flavours wash in endless waves—cherry clafoutie, macerated fruit and cassis galore interweave with ripe, fresh briary berry and bittersweet chocolate. Unfined and unfiltered with huge, ripe tannin, you’ll need to decant—it pours well with Stilton, Parmigiano-reggiano or death-by-chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Everyone knows Port, right? – it’s fortified, kept in the cellar for 50 or more years then consumed by stuffy old men smoking cigars in a heavily draped, dark room. That’s how it is in classic movies, but there are different styles of Port. The one in the movies is ‘Vintage’ Port, another far different style is ‘Tawny’ Port. Vintage Port can be quite tannic when young, often needing years, even decades, to fully mature and it matures in bottle, usually in your cellar after purchase. And, it’s a fabulous, contemporary, fortified wine, not at all as portrayed in old movies. Tawny Port matures in cask and is ready to be consumed at purchase—it doesn’t improve in bottle. Because it matures in cask rather than bottle, it’s also much smoother—the cask breathes and some of the wine evaporates—and is a beautiful tawny colour rather than purple-red. The wine that evaporates is called the ‘Angels’ share’. Some say that’s why angels are often portrayed as serene and untroubled.
Tawny Port has five classifications and as each classification indicates older wine, they escalate in price at retail. If labeled simply ‘Tawny’, it spent a minimum two years in cask. The official categories for older Tawnies are 10, 20, 30 and over 40 years – (it’s indicated on the label, for example, ‘Thirty Year Old Tawny’). However, even though most people deduce these classifications indicate how long each spent in cask, that isn’t the case. Not much in the wine world is straightforward.
Each category allows a blend of vintages and the desired blend is submitted to a regulatory body for evaluation. There are strict organoleptical criteria (appearance, aroma/bouquet, taste, texture, finish) that define each age category. You’ll find there are wines that are much older than the criteria in the blend. For example, a 42-year-old wine in a blend that gets classified as ‘Thirty Year Old Tawny’, because the blend meets the strict criteria for the 30-year-old classification, but not for the next older category. One would expect older and younger wines in blends of all the aged classified Tawnies with each meeting guidelines for the classification on the label, but not the next-older and usually more expensive, classification.
What is simple, is purchasing the one below and pairing Tawny Port with food. It’s sweet and versatile—soft creamy cheese—camembert, brie; warm, roasted almonds or chestnuts; puddings or flans—crème brûlée, crème caramel or fruit flans; and some pair it with chocolate desserts—not me, I prefer Vintage Port with chocolate.
Port Wine
Warre’s Otima ‘10 Year Old Tawny’ Port
Porto, Douro, Portugal $21.95 500 mL (566174) 20% alcohol
Made with top-drawer Port grapes, this is fresh as a daisy—bottled 2011—smooth as silk and chockfull of luscious aromas and flavours. An alluring bouquet swirls with caramel, roasted nuts and peel marmalade to the fore. It bathes the palate with sweet toffee, desiccated apricot and fig interlaced with hints of mint. It’s über delicious sipped on its own or paired with crème brûlée or crème caramel. Kept tightly corked in the refrigerator, this will stay fresh for three weeks after opening. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Méthode Traditionelle Rosé 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (078055) 13.0% alcohol
A classic Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend vinified as it is in Champagne, this spent three-plus years on its lees before being hand disgorged just prior to release. CdC has done all the hard work – just pop the cork and breathe in aromas of baking bread, strawberries and currants that herald a profusion of petite bubbles and delectable flavour with red berry fruit, yeasty notes and spiced red plum to the fore. It’s balanced and beautiful with a crisp, lip-smacking aftertaste. Sip or pour with salmon or white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Table Wine
Château des Charmes ‘Estate Bottled’ Cabernet – Merlot 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (454991) 12.5% alcohol
There’s dark toast, kitchen spice and cedar on the nose of this red blend—both Cabernets and Merlot. It splashes over the palate with boysenberry, savory herbs and sour cherry framed by a solid line of acidity bolstered by supple tannin. Its mid weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length finish of red currant interlaced with earthy notes and wisps of oak. (Vic Harradine)
Matías Ríos, Winemaking Manager for the incredibly popular Cono Sur Vineyards and Winery, was recently in Ontario speaking and pairing wines at a Cono Sur-sponsored dinner at Fairmont Chateau Laurier in Ottawa in support of Clean Air Champions. Matías was last with winecurrent in 2009… read this feature. BTW, Cono Sur is Spanish for the Southern Cone—the shape of the southern portion of Chile, showcasing for Cono Sur where their grapes are grown and wines made. The wines served at dinner are reviewed below. Unfortunately, can’t include Matías’ introduction to each; can only emphasize that the wines are infused with his passion and charming, friendly, easy-going style.
A serious proponent of sustainable agriculture, Cono Sur walks the talk with hundreds of acres certified organic and yet other projects awaiting bio-dynamic, Demeter certification. They’re the first certified CarbonNeutral winery in the world. After graduating with an Agricultural Engineering degree, Matías first worked in the industry with table grapes before discovering it was much more interesting and rewarding to drink, rather than eat, the fruits of his labour. Matías has a host of responsibilities at Cono Sur with choosing specific site development for particular varietals and managing their sustainable and organic initiatives near the top of the lengthy list.
Cono Sur ‘Sparkling Wine’ Non Vintage
DO Bio-Bio Valley, Chile $13.95 (215079) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, the nose dishes up an array of aromas—citrus, a touch of mineral and floral nuances. It hustles from the glass with loads of ripe fruit—apple pear and peach—riding a wave of zesty bubbles. This is light-mid weight with good definition on the leesy, racy, mouth-watering finish. Well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Bicycle’ Viognier 2011
DO Colchagua, Chile $9.95 (064287) 13.8% alcohol
Honeysuckle and a salad bowl of tropical fruit aromas herald a balanced and beautiful wash of juicy white peach and ripe sweet melon interlaced with racy citrus. It’s mid weight with very generous mouth feel—silky smooth and creamy—and a persistent, lip-smacking finish showcasing honey-tinged orchard fruit and wisps of exotic spice. Consistently one of the best-value whites on LCBO shelves. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Organic’ Chardonnay 2011
DO Valle de San Antonio, Chile $11.95 (230565) 13.2% alcohol
Mineral/slate and citrus aromas open this hand-picked, cool-climate, coastal beauty. Light-mid weight, crisp and refreshing, there’s a solid core of fruit—ripe apple, tangy citrus, sweet pear and succulent peach—on the palate. The dazzling finish is mouth-watering and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside seared scallops, mussels steamed in white wine or lemon veal. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2011
DO Casablanca, Chile $12.95 (270066) 13.4% alcohol
There’s good value here—aromas of tropical fruit, citrus and peach waft easily for this medium-weight, nicely textured Chardonnay. It’s brimming with sweet tropical fruit, pineapple, mango and melon interlaced with moderating lemon chiffon pie and pineapple. It finishes with lip-smacking, tangy white grapefruit and succulent, ripe peach. (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘Bicycle’ Pinot Noir 2011
DO Valle Central, Chile $10.95 (341602) 13.5% alcohol
Pinot Noir is a Cono Sur specialty; it great value at every price point. This was primarily hand-harvested from an area marked by classic Pinot conditions, cool nights, misty mornings. Opening with a quiet nose of currants and spice, it bathes the palate with a wave of soft black plum, dark, juicy cherry and spiced black currant. It’s rich and balanced with medium body, a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a balanced finish that offers good fruit and moderating acidity. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Cono Sur ‘20 Barrels’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $26.95 (094128) 13.6% alcohol
This hand-harvested, limited-production gem spent 17 months in oak barrel before bottling. It rips from the glass with an alluring bouquet of dark berry fruit and exotic spice interlaced with fennel and cola. Cassis, ripe, sweet mulberry and spice-infused black plum mingle with espresso roast and toasty notes washing over the palate in waves. It’s balanced, with good structure and no shortage of charm. The lengthy fruit-filled finish is complex and layered. A recent Vintages release, there’s stock on shelves. (Vic Harradine)
Coyote’s Run ‘Five Mile White’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (195669) 11.5% alcohol
A blend of Riesling (principally), Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer, this wine offers a lovely whiff of floral, spice and sweet fruit aromas. Mid weight, it’s dry, clean and crisp in texture with citrus and mineral mingling with a touch of sweet orchard fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced, juicy and a bit pithy on the finish, serve as a sipper or with lemon garlic roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek $35.95 (116442) 13.5% alcohol
Aged 16 months in French oak, just over 100 cases of this well-structured Pinot were produced—so get yours soon! A notion of sweet dark fruit, spice and vanilla tantalizes the nose. Silky in texture and dry, this wine matches flavours of ripe field berries with an earthy quality and a replay of spice and vanilla on a long, dry finish. Finely wrought, with perceptible tannin, it’s a candidate for cellaring or a match for beef tenderloin with a wild mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)
Creekside Estate Pinot Grigio 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (083196) 12.5% alcohol
Floral and mineral notes meld with citrus and spice on the nose while white peach, green apple and lemon zest play on the palate infusing the lip-smackingly good aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a mid-length aftertaste of white grapefruit and racy lemon-lime. Pairs well with lemon sole or lemon chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Creekside Estate Shiraz 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (066654) 13.0% alcohol
This is a lovely drop with oodles of bright red and black fruit with a balanced, fruit-filled finish. Wood smoke and dark berry fruit on the nose, it broadens out on the palate with a tasty, fruit-filled river of red and black berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and cassis. This is nicely balanced with good structure and weight and a lingering finish that showcases ripe red fruit, good acidity and supple tannin. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin - The history and present success of the entire Ontario wine industry are inextricably entwined with Inniskillin Wines. Co-founders, Donald Ziraldo, and winemaker, Karl Kaiser, were granted an Ontario winery license in 1975, the first granted since prohibition—repealed in Ontario in 1927 along with the formation of the LCBO.
Inniskillin went from strength to strength via Ziraldo’s prescient vine selection and vine management plus his indefatigable marketing efforts, and Kaiser’s outstanding winemaking talent. Their Inniskillin1989 Vidal icewine thrust Canada onto the world wine stage as recipient of a Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux in 1991. Ziraldo was also a prime mover and founding chair of VQA—minted in 1989.
Both Kaiser and Ziraldo retired from the day-to-day work of running Inniskillin eight years ago. Inniskillin continues to be an exciting force in the industry with strong initiatives in both Niagara and the Okanagan with winemakers Bruce Nicholson and Sandor Mayer, respectively, handling those reins. Their wines are consistently quality-driven and value-laden, easily placing them in the top-tier of premium Ontario wineries. The following four wines from their ‘Niagara Estate’ series—all decked out in subtly elegant, newly designed labels—are excellent examples of the compelling, quality-value proposition.
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate - Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (066266) 13.0% alcohol
Straw coloured with a tinge of green, this sports a delightful nose of ripe apple and pear, vanilla and hints of white flowers. It’s deftly balanced with mid weight and very generous mouth feel garnished with a wash of lemon-lime, minerality and ripe pit fruit. It’s crisp and refreshing on the palate and mouth-wateringly good on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (323444) 14.0% alcohol
An outstanding vintage, a premium winery plus impeccable viticulture and winemaking practices coalesce in this juicy, value-packed red. Aromas of spice-infused black plum and toast mingle with wisps of cedar providing segue to a balanced, palate-bathing wash of red raspberry, blueberry and pomegranate. It’s medium-full bodied with silky mouth feel and a racy, mouth-watering, dry finish garnished by ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (261099) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, beet root and savory aromas provide segue for a balanced and beautiful river of tangy red cherry and racy, spice-laden pomegranate interwoven with ripe, juicy black plum. It’s light on its feet with good texture and a dry, fruit-filled aftertaste that’s lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled, cedar-planked salmon.(Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin ‘Niagara Estate’ Late Autumn Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (219543) 11.2% alcohol
Honeyed nectarine, apple and ginger aromas on the nose, this bathes the palate with delicate, spiced yellow plum, ripe succulent pear and crisp Granny Smith apple—all infused and balanced with racy lemon acidity. It’s lighter styled with good texture and an affinity for sipping alone or pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. It finishes off-dry with oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)
David Mirassou, 6th generation family and current winemaker for Mirassou Family Wine Making, was in Ontario and winecurrent enjoyed lunch, a tasting, and an opportunity to meet with him at the fabulous Festival Japan restaurant in downtown Ottawa. Serendipitously having recently tasted and reviewed the wines served at lunch, it provided opportunity to focus on David and how the wines paired alongside cuisine one might consider challenging—sushi and sashimi with de rigueur accompaniments, wasabe, soy sauce and pickled ginger.
David’s background is wine, wine, and more wine, having immersed himself in every facet of the business. With an unbroken run of +150 years of it in his family—his grandfather was a close, personal friend of Ernest Gallo and Robert Mondavi—it runs in his veins. Mirassou is the top-selling Pinot Noir in both the United States and Canada.
David’s wife is a caterer and he’s a self-professed, ‘keen wine and food guy’, having traveled the country conducting seminars. Both the Pinot Noir and the Pinot Grigio paired from very good to excellent with every dish including sushi, sashimi and tempura, David contends it’s the incredible balance of the wines that allowed those quite amazing pairings. The tempura and the fabulous sushi-grade salmon pairings were outstanding with the Pinot Noir. In case you missed them previously, the reviews for both follow.
Mirassou Pinot Grigio 2011
California $12.95 (274480) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of honeyed peach and floral notes with hints of lychee waft easily from the glass of this balanced and brimming-with-fruit beauty. Waves of spice-infused, ripe yellow plum and honey dew melon wash over the palate in generously textured waves persisting through the refreshing aftertaste garnished with lively citrus tones. Well made, well priced and well… delectable—take a sip and you’ll know why. (Vic Harradine)
Mirassou Pinot Noir 2011
California $12.95 (185249) 13.5% alcohol
Easy to understand why this is so popular, it’s balanced and boasting sweet, ripe fruit. Bramble berry, spice and cola on the nose, there are mid-weight, nicely textured waves of ripe black currant, spice-infused, sweet black plum and red cherry washing over the palate, infusing the lingering, balanced aftertaste. It’s poured well on its own or alongside roast chicken or duck. (Vic Harradine)
Red Rock ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2010
California $16.95 (284315) 13.6% alcohol
Robust and concentrated aromas of dark, ripe berry fruit, aromatic bitters and cedar burst from the inky, purple-black liquid. Rich and luscious on the palate, black currant, black berry and tangy black plum compote mingle with toasty notes, washing in waves. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with a drying aftertaste tailing off with wisps of underbrush, tannin and green herbal notes. Pour with pasta in spicy Bolognese sauce after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Coyote’s Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek, $49.95, 13.5% alcohol
Produced from 5 barrels of the estate’s finest Pinot Noir, this lovely wine offers rich, spiced fruit aromas with hints of vanilla, dried herbs and smoke. Dry, satiny in texture and medium bodied, the palate delivers depth of red cherry/berry fruit, a nuance of smoky spice and a lovely touch of warmth on the tangy finish. There’s good depth of flavour, fine balance and structure. Purchase for mid-term cellaring or enjoy with your favourite duck recipe. Order for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run. (Susan Desjardins)
Coyote’s Run ‘Rare Vintage’ Meritage 2010
VQA Four Mile Creek, $39.95, 13.5% alcohol
A blend of the estate’s finest barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this wine offers tantalizing complexity in aromas, as lovely dark fruit mingles with cedar, sweet spice and herbs. Dry, mid-full weight, it showcases deliciously layered red and black fruits, exotic spice and a peppery note through the long, dry, full-flavoured finish. Displaying firm tannin, fine acidity and ripe fruit, it’s structured for cellaring 5-7 years or decant and savour now with rack of lamb or bison bourguignon. Order for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run. (Susan Desjardins)
Norman Hardie Riesling 2011
VQA Ontario $21.00 11.0% alcohol
From a star winery in Prince Edward County, this blends in grapes from other appellations producing a steely nose with oodles of slate, mineral and citrus aromas. Lip-smacking good with a bracing beam of racy acidity, there’s nectarine and melon peeking through. It’s mid weight with good balance and a crisp, mouth-watering aftertaste of lemon zest and nuances of blood orange. Tasted at the über-popular Petit Bill’s Bistro in Ottawa with seared scallops; it was divine. Order by the (mixed) case for daily home or office delivery with orders over $200 free to the GTA or metro Ottawa from Norman Hardie. (Vic Harradine)
New in Consignment
Order all the following wines—Consignment and Private Order—for daily home or office delivery from Ontario wine agent - Hobbs & Co Wine Merchants.
Creekside ‘Reserve’ Merlot 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench $34.95 13.0% alcohol
From that wonderfully warm 2007 vintage comes a wine of great substance and structure. This single-vineyard wine was produced with Queenston Road Vineyard fruit aged 31 months in American Oak. Intense, rich fruit aromas rise from the glass, layered with notes of spice, toast and a subtle earthy quality. Dry, medium-full bodied, the firm tannin and clean acidity underpin layers of dark brooding spiced fruit. Peppery notes lift the long, dry finish. Cellar medium-term or decant and serve with roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)
Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (620724) 12.0% alcohol
Herbaceous, melon and citrus aromas abound on the nose of this racy, tangy gem. Palate-bathing flavours of passion fruit, lime yoghurt and tangy grapefruit mingle with crisp apple and juicy pear. It’s mid weight with fair texture and a lively citrus aftertaste that’s mouth-watering, crisp and refreshing. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled and garlicky prawns. (Vic Harradine)
Creekside Estate ‘Creekside Estate Vineyard - Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Creek Shores $26.95 12.0% alcohol
With only 98 cases produced, you’ll have to be quick. This was aged in new and used oak, barreling from the glass with lifted aromas of gooseberry, guava and grassy notes. There’s a gusher of concentrated flavour coating the palate with lemongrass, passion fruit and blood orange to the fore. It’s mid-full weight with excellent mouth feel and oodles of charm. It finishes in a blaze of lip-smacking acidity mingling with wisps of melon and ruby red grapefruit. (Vic Harradine)
La Crusset ‘La Bella Fernanda’ 2010
DO Rioja, Spain $25.99 13.0% alcohol
Here’s an unusual white Tempranillo, the result of a natural mutation, fermented in stainless to retain its lovely fruit, then rounded out with 3 months in American oak. Quite intense aromas rise from the glass—lush tropical fruits, vanilla and toast. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine has great balance—sweet fruit is garnished with notes of toast, matched with fresh citrus acidity. It finishes clean and toasty. Intriguing and mouth-wateringly good. Available in 6-bottle cases. (Susan Desjardins)
La Crusset ‘6 Sombreros’ 2005
DO Rioja, Spain $34.50 14.0% alcohol
Given only 30 hectares of the grape ‘Tempranillo Peludo’ exist, this is a rare find. Produced from 80-100-year-old organically grown vines that yield small grapes, this wine offers great depth of colour and flavour. There’s complexity on the nose—rich plummy fruit, leather, earth and spice. Dry, full bodied, there an intense, persistent, mouth-filling wash of dark, spiced fruit, notes of pepper and an earthy quality, all framed by firm structure and clean acidity. Available in 6-bottle cases. (Susan Desjardins)
Gauchezco ‘Plata’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza, Argentina $31.99 14.0% alcohol
Toast, vanilla and spice aromas provide segue for a flood of rich, luscious flavour with black currant, ripe sweet briary berry and spiced blueberry to the fore. This is layered, structured with ripe supple tannin and balanced with gorgeous texture, fruit flavour and excellent moderating acidity from first sip to the luxurious, lingering finish. The aftertaste layers on espresso roast and hints of cassis. (Vic Harradine)
Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.99 12.5% alcohol
Almost transparent, this fabulous award-winning Chenin presents bright aromas of tangy citrus and tropical fruits that have your mouth watering! Dry, mid-weight, clean and lively, the flavours are true to the nose, the acidity well matched to the fruit, the finish long and tangy. You’ll want more than one bottle to cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $26.99 14.0% alcohol
Savour the subtle floral notes, spiced red fruits and elusive earthy nuance of this finely-wrought, pale-ruby Pinot Noir. Dry and medium bodied, it offers a silky texture, supple tannin and fresh acidity. Tasty red cherry/berry flavours mingle with spicy, peppery notes that create subtle warmth through the extended finish. Enjoy with planked salmon or cellar medium term. (Susan Desjardins)
Domaine Francois Lichtlé Pinot Gris 2010
AOC Alsace, France $20.99 14.5% alcohol
Bold yellow-gold, this pleasantly off-dry wine proffers intense, honeyed tropical and orchard fruit aromas. Medium-full bodied and generous, the luscious fruit is matched with notes of citrus and refined acidity that deliver a lovely clean and fruity finish. Did I say it was fabulous? (Susan Desjardins)
Château Roudier 2005
AOC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France $26.99 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast, sweet vanilla and dark berry fruit aromas herald a luscious, juicy stream of ripe, black cherry, black briary berry and roasted herbs bathing the palate, persisting through the lengthy dry, balanced finish. Mid weight with good mouth feel, this is a nicely paced, well-structured Merlot-dominant blend. Both tannin and oak are well-integrated showcasing delicious mouthfuls of a charming, affable red. (Vic Harradine)
Salchetto Rosso di Montepulciano 2010
DOC Rosso di Montepulciano, Italy $21.99 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby in tone, this classic, lightly oaked red offers lovely cherry/berry aromas intermingled with notes of spice and earth. Dry, smooth, round in texture, the ripe tannins are well integrated, the acidity fresh, the red fruit quite lush through the lively clean finish. Enjoy with pork tenderloin and a medley of grilled mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)
Tantalus ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2008
VQA Okanagan Valley $45.99 12.1% alcohol
Tantalus, perched on the eastern slope of the Okanagan Valley above Kelowna, is known for its fine Riesling and here’s an excellent example for their reputation. Produced from hand-picked grapes from a single 35-year-old plot, this is a finely crafted wine offering lovely notes of citrus, pear and honeydew with a whiff of petrol. Clean and dry, there’s a focused frame of zesty acidity carrying the flavours of citrus and green apple through the crisp, extended finish. Serve with roast pork or cellar long term. Available in 6-bottle cases. (Susan Desjardins)
New in Private Order
Tinpot Hut Pinot Noir 2011
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $25.00 13.5% alcohol
Truly delightful, it dishes up gorgeous aromas of dark berry fruit and spiced black plum. It’s balanced and beautiful and smooth as silk, brimming with racy pomegranate, briary berry, roasted herbs and savory herbs. Medium in weight and texture, the aftertaste sports ripe red fruit, moderating acidity and wisps of earthiness and toast. You’ll be hard pressed to find better at this price. (Vic Harradine)
Tinpot Hut Riesling 2012
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $26.00 10% alcohol
Slate and wet stone aromas mingle with citrus and sprigs of herbs on the nose. A crisp, refreshing river of persistent, off-dry flavour runs throughout—tangy lemon-lime, a salad bowl of ripe tropical fruit and blood orange. It’s light on its feet with delightful sweet and tang that pours so well with spicy Asian dishes. The finish is refreshing, crisp and citrus clean. This is well paced and well priced. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic