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Vintages Release, October 1, 2005

This release includes a large selection of Italian reds, starting with Barolos and Barbarescos from the 2000 vintage.

**** drink now
Bosco Malera "La Logia" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $29.95 (586321)

Lovely and lifted earthy, black currant aromatics surge from the glass of this medium-bodied offering that is ready for the glass and your table now. There are fine, ripe tannins, cranberry and raisiny flavours plus a lovely balancing spine of tangy acidity that begs for a tomato-based sauce for a cuisine match. A well made wine at a fair price point. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo 2000
DOC $29.95 (652479)

Red licorice and currants form the nose of this hefty Northern Italian beauty. It is rich and concentrated with a full-fruit (cherries and plums) profile plus some lovely wisps of coffee, chocolate and tar. This will benefit from three or more years in your cellar, but would be more approachable now after being decanted (aerated, really) for five or six hours before serving. The price-to-quality scale is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)

***** cellar
Marziano Abbona "Vigna Faset" Barbaresco 2000
DOCG Barbaresco $58.95 (586339)

Black licorice, leather and earthy aromas blast from this crowd-pleasing fruit bomb. There are huge, ripe, perceptible tannins that will reward judicious cellaring. Tangy cherries and toasty currants form the flavour profile while the lengthy and prominent finish is more of the same and builds in intensity. Pour this from 2008 to 2012 on its own, after decanting 7 or 8 hours, with marinated and grilled venison or other game. (VH)

**** cellar
Michele Chiarlo "Tortoniano" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $54.95 (586388)

Although the nose is muted (hints of raspberry and plum) at present, there is light at the end of a 3 to 6 year cellaring tunnel. It is full-bodied, via a formidable tannin structure, layers of ripe black fruit and a beautifully balanced, well handled, amount of acidity and oak. The finish is rich, slightly chalky and full of ripe dark fruit. Try this with braised leg of lamb smeared with herbs, spices and rubbed with garlic. (VH)

 ***** cellar
Patrizi Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $37.95 (653527)

The generous aromatics of blueberries, violets and crushed, dried currants are a scintillating entrée to a full-bodied, rich, sweet, concentrated beauty. In terms of a flavour profile (black plums, Bing cherries and figs), this is a monster. The finish is lengthy, plush and redolent of tarred black berries with a hint of mocha. Drink from 2008 to 2012 with all manner of rich beef or veal stews including my favourite, Osso Bucco. (VH)

**** cellar
Rocche Costamagna "Bricco Francesco" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (586362)

Black, ripe fruit and coffee form the aromatic profile of this cellar dweller. The palate is attacked by young tannins, but there are gobs and gobs of fruit (spicy cranberries and rasiny figs) hanging around waiting for those tannins to soften. The finish is glorious with copious amounts of mushrooms and cherries, but still wrapped up in those drying tannins. Pour 2010 to 2020, after decanting for 7 or 8 hours, with grilled beef, rare, drizzled with a truffle oil sauce. (VH)


***** cellar two glasses
Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2000
DOCG Barbaresco $69.95 (947465)

A beautiful Barbaresco for the cellar. It has big chewy tannins now and the texture needs time to smooth out. But you can see where it's going, and the fruit that's with it is impressive: rich dark plum, some dried fruit notes (raisins, prunes), with smoky, earthy accents. This is best tucked away for at last another five years, then drunk during the following five or ten. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Burlotto "Cannubi" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (945832)

An intriguing nose of vanilla and strawberry compote waft from the glass. This medium to full-bodied red has a clean fresh style that is quite unique, in a Barolo, and appealing. There is a generous amount of, but not overpowering, fruit (strawberries and raspberries) with enough tannin and acidity to make this an almost perfectly balanced offering. More lean and elegant than most, it still needs ageing to bring it fully into its best years. Drink 2008 to 2015. (VH)

***** cellar
Cabutto "Vigna la Volta" Barolo 2000
DOCG $57.95 (586354)

The nose gushes with dried fruit, leather and creosote aromatics. This is a ripper that oozes flavours of cassis, sour cherries and currants. The tannins are grainy and perceptible, but altogether ripe. The mid-palate is sweet while the finish is lengthy, luxurious and fruit-driven with cherry and raspberry to the fore. Pour from 2009 to 2015 with rare, grilled lamb tenderloin. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cigliutti "Serraboella" Barbaresco 2000
DOCG $62.95 (969146)

This is quintessential Barbaresco; softer, silkier and a little more approachable than Barolo. Violets and cranberries on the nose, this medium-bodied gem has raspberry compote flavours wrapped around ripe, soft tannins. The finish is lengthy and gushing with sweet black fruit. There is ample acidity to keep it from becoming jammy and the oak has been carefully handled. Drink now, after aeration of 2 to 3 hours, to 2010. (VH)

***** cellar
Pio Cesare Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $69.95 (736587)

Fourth generation family-owned, prime sites, meticulously-selected fruit, French oak and a master's touch with Barolo coalesce to you bring you this. From the lifted nose of black tar and licorice, through the full bore flavours of coffee, truffles, cherry and raspberry to the perfect balance and elegant structure, this rich and concentrated wine hits the mark. Stop reading and pick up a bottle or two. Drink 2010 to 2025. (VH)

**** drink now
Rivetto "Giulin" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $47.95 (653519)

A muted nose of flowers and strawberries must be coaxed from the glass. This medium-bodied Barolo has lovely structure and balance. The flavour profile includes ripe fruit and red licorice whilst the tannins have been firmly held in check. The finish is appealing with fresh sour cherries and savoury cranberries out front with a nice underpinning of coffee and chocolate. Drink now to 2010 with hearty veal shank stew. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Paolo Conterno "Ginestra" Barolo 2000
DOCG Barolo $59.95 (734293)

Big and powerful, with good structure and potential elegance, this Barolo needs another four or five years to settle in before you're going to appreciate its potential. Then you'll have concentrated dark fruit with spicy, earthy notes, fine-grained tannins, and a rich fruit finish, all in equilibrium with the acidity. (RP)

Ontario: white wine

****1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Gewürztraminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (268359)

Rosewater aromatics guide the lucky imbiber into a medium-bodied, flavourful (spiced apples, citrus and pears) zesty white. This is classic Gewürzt with zippy, thirst-quenching acidity and a round suppleness on the palate that brings you back for more. Right down to the lime juice finish, this screams out well made, well balanced and very well priced. Pour with green curry chicken and steamed Basmati rice. (VH)

Ontario: red wine

**** drink now
Lakeview Cellars "Butler's Grant" Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (537175)

A little earthiness on the nose, but lots of fruit to back it up. Rich ripe fruit flavours of sour cherries and pomegranate form the backbone of this clean, fresh, light-bodied offering. A bracing tang cleans it all up along with excellent fruit flavours, adding up to a glorious finish. Drinking now and would pair extremely well with grilled tuna drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

California: white wine

***** drink or cellar
Beringer "Private Reserve" Chardonnay 2000
Napa Valley $39.95 (393926)

This is what California Chardonnay is meant to be. The hugely lifted nose of vanilla and spiced apple blasts from the glass. This monstrously-textured wine will have huge appeal for those looking for a supple, creamy, plush, hedonistic Chard experience. The finish is monumental with ladles full of creamy texture, vanilla and pit fruit flavours. Treat yourself to a two-pound steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter, a friend and a bottle of this. Drinking now to 2008. (VH)


**** drink now
Ca'Del Solo Malvasia Bianca 2004
Monterey $19.95 (948737)

There's a wonderful mélange of fruit aromas and flavours here. My list includes Muscat, peach, apricot, lime, pink grapefruit, white flowers, white pepper, and stewed apricots. It's a rich mix that's in harness with vibrant acidity, and together they make for an ever-so-slightly off-dry perception. Sip it as an aperitif or pair it with spicy chicken and pork dishes. (RP)

California: red wine

***** drink or cellar
Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $94.95 (222877)

Tar, vanilla and chocolate-covered cherry aromatics dominate the lifted nose of this opulent, elegant red. On the palate, the senses are attacked with rich cassis and minty black currant flavours. It is fleshy, sweet and gorgeously structured around ripe tannins and a liberal, but not overpowering, lashing of oak. The tannins are ripe and firm whilst the finish is a seamless extension of the flavour profile. This stunning wine deserves to be served with AAA Sterling beef, grilled rare with sautéed Porcinis, up to 2012. (VH)

***** cellar
Caymus "Special Selection" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $159.95 (711663)

If you had about $250 to spare, you could buy the Caymus Cab and this "Special Selection," put them away for three or four years, then open them together to see if this is worth the extra money. On its own, it's stunning now and will be even better at the end of the decade. The fruit is rich, ripe and complex, the tannins are big and chewy, but will become refined over time. This is a cellar candidate that deserves your vote. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel 2001
Lodi $24.95 (694356)

The is the real deal and a true expression of Zin. It oozes cherry jam, cassis and minty black berry aromas. The sweet flavour profile exudes tar, licorice and ripe fruit. Medium-bodied, it displays high energy with firm, ripe tannins, good balancing zip and a long, long finish that says it's a keeper from now to 2010. It doesn't require food, but if you wish, try spiced beef or Chicken Paprikash. (VH)


**** drink or cellar
Lafond "SHR" Pinot Noir 2003
Santa Rita Hills $25.95 (998666)

There's a core of sweet, complex fruit here, intertwined with good acidity and ripe, drying tannins. Look for quite intense dark fruit (cherry, berries) with accents of spice and pepper. The 14.8% alcohol produces some warmth in the mouth, but pairing it with grilled lamb chops will neutralize it. (RP)

Chile: red wine

****1/2 cellar
Viña Carmen "Nativa" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Maipo Valley $18.95 (975359)

This is an organically-grown wine that needs two or three years to develop its potential. It's a real fruit blockbuster, with gobs of ripe dark plums, cherries and berries, with notes of tar, mint, chocolate, pepper and spice. The tannins are big and firm and right now are a bit of a hurdle. Wait for them to fall away and console yourself, as you wait, with the thought that you don't often get such a good cellar candidate at this price. (RP)

Australia: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Redbank "Sunday Morning" Pinot Gris 2003
King Valley, Victoria $21.95 (677484)

This very elegant Pinot Gris stands out from the crowd of too-often mediocre Gris/Grigio now on offer. When Pinot Gris/Grigio was hailed as "the new Chardonnay," I suppose we should have expected that quality would start to sag. But this example has classy fruit (nicely-honed citrus, apricot and peach stone) intertwined with a well-pitched acid core. Pair it up with spicy seafood appetizers. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Riesling 2004
Eden/Clare Valleys, South Australia $19.95 (606269)

Clare Valley is a warm region paradoxically producing some stunning Rieslings. A highly aromatic nose of lime zest and spice with a light touch of minerality opens the door to this light-bodied offering. There is a cornucopia of treasures in the flavour profile (tangy citrus, spiced stone fruit and Granny Smith apples) while the finish delivers an uninterrupted stream of the same. Would pair well with a creamy cheese, like Brie. (VH)


***1/2 drink now
Yalumba "Y Series" Riesling 2004
South Australia $14.95 (625129)

A dry, crisp, refreshing Riesling that makes and excellent aperitif or partner to lighter seafood dishes. There's the merest hint of petrol on the nose, but it's mostly soft citrus with melon and light tropical-and that goes for the flavours, too. It's well balanced and certainly deserves its place in this well-made series from Yalumba. (RP)

Australia: red wine

****1/2 drink now
Grant Burge "Barossa Vines" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley $16.95 (738567)

An inviting nose of cherries and black plums form the segue to this Aussie crowd pleaser. Spiced and savoury cranberry flavours mixed with an intriguing dollop of vanilla and raspberry jam, wash over the palate. No rough edges as all is in perfect balance and smooth as satin. Nicely structured, though, with ripe tannins and enough zest to provide interest and a balanced finish. Drink on its own or with any manner of grilled lamb. (VH)


**** drink or cellar
Hare's Chase Barossa Red Blend 2003
Barossa Valley $25.95 (658047)

This unusual blend includes Merlot, Shiraz, Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon and Tempranillo. The result is big and intensely flavoured, with a rich, almost creamy texture. Still, it's not overdone, and the flavours aren't jammy or the texture cloying. It demands big, flavourful food like a pepper steak or richly-seasoned lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Plunkett "Blackwood Ridge" Shiraz 2002
Victoria $21.95 (657627)

A more complex and finely-structured Shiraz than most that come our way in the under-$25 range. The fruit is complex and concentrated, but also restrained and nicely layered. It's well balanced with the acidity, making this a better food wine than many Shirazes, and the tannins are long and ripe. You can drink this now, but better still, put it aside for three to five years. Then drink it with roasted game. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tollana Bin TR222 Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
South Australia $25.95 (538520)

Silky textured, warm in the mouth, with firm tannins, this offers typical Cabernet fruit (dark plum, black currant, cherry) with complex notes of smoke, leather and spice. It's very well balanced and is good drinking now and for the next five years. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Tollana Bin TR16 Shiraz 2003
Clare Valley/Eden Valley $25.95 (489021)

Wisely sealed under screw cap, to keep all those juicy flavours locked in. An opaque monster that stains the glass then attacks the olfactory with black berry and minty cassis aromatics. This blockbuster of a fruit bomb then explodes with tarry chocolate dripping with sweet cassis on the palate and carries through, seamlessly, into the luxurious finish. Drink now to 2009 with your best friend and a hearty rabbit stew. (VH)

France: white wine

**** drink now
La Chablisienne "Fourchaume" Chablis 1er Cru 2002
AOC Chablis $33.95 (656835)

The soft-spoken nose of apples and pears does nothing to prepare you for the taste treat in store. This medium-bodied white is wonderfully clean and spicy with a rush of fruit flavours (melons, peaches and sweet apples) that kick into high gear and coat the palate. It is beautifully supple and offers enough tang and zest on the finish to mark it a classy act. Pour now to 2010 with bacon-wrapped scallops covered in Hollandaise sauce. (VH)

France: red wine

***1/2 drink now
Massane Syrah 2002
Vin de Pays d'Oc $11.95 (597195)

Spiced plums and freshly squeezed cherries form the aromatics of this medium-bodied quaffer. It has lovely balance and will appeal to those who appreciate lighter-styled wine without giving up flavour or interest. The tannins are not perceptible, but there are copious amounts of strawberry and raspberry flavours. Has a lovely finish that would pair well with lighter fare, such as appetizers with mushrooms or sliced roast beef. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Château Beauchêne Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $35.95 (657965)

The absolutely scintillating nose of savoury cassis and garrigue fill the senses. The flavour profile includes raspberry jam and sweet black cherries wrapped around some pretty grainy tannins that will need time to soften. Beautifully balanced, it really struts its stuff on the lengthy fruit-driven finish. Drink 2008 to 2012 with cassoulet. (VH)


Germany: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett 1999
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $16.95 (657171)

One of those beauties you'd like to drink now, but know it will develop into something even more special, given time. Developing petrol flavours and nice citrus notes waft from this medium-bodied, off-dry white. The lovely ripe, stone fruit flavours are beautifully framed by a spine of acidity that provides that sought-after sweet and sour profile these medium-sweet wines provide. Lots of opportunity to age this, drinking now to 2015, and you would not go far wrong pairing it to smoked salmon. Great value - 6 years old. (VH)

Germany: red wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lingenfelder "Fox Label" Dornfelder 2002
QbA Pfalz $14.95 (657114)

Dornfelder is a hybrid grape that can produce southern Rhone-like reds. This has black plum and cranberry aromas and with crème de cassis and black ripe cherry flavours. It has nice balance, no perceptible tannin and is medium-bodied. Try with firm fish (tuna or sword) or on its own, slightly chilled, as an easy sipper (VH)

Italy: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Di Lenardo Pinot Grigio dal Vigneto Vigne dai Vieris 2004
IGT Venezia Giulia $13.95 (710012)

Muted, but fragrant, this white opens with floral and honey notes. The flavours are prominent and deliver a mélange of citrus, pineapple and green apple. It is medium-bodied, a touch spritzy and ends on a grand note of citrus and peach notes. A well-balanced and well-priced wine that goes well with pasta in a cream sauce. (VH)

**** drink now
Lungarotti "Torre di Giano" Bianco 2004
DOC Bianco di Torgiano $9.95 (49205)

From Torgiano, a wine town if ever there was one, comes this well-made, affordable white that's perfect for sipping or for pairing with lighter fish, seafood, or chicken dishes. It has solid fruit, a crisp texture, and very good balance. (RP)

Italy: red wine

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Terre d'Aligi "Tatone" Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2001
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $14.95 (994616)

We both think this is wonderful value and not to be missed. It's made in a fruit-forward style (fresh red fruit with dried fruit notes) and it's full-bodied, complex and well-structured. Drink it now and over the next three or fours years with hearty Italian dishes. Buy it by the case but, as usual, hold back until we have ours. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Due Palme Primitivo 2002
IGT Salento $13.95 (658351)

Spiced ripe fruit coupled with leather and cedar undertones open the doors wide for this 13.5% alcohol (low for this grape) beauty. It drips with ripe, sweet black fruit on the palate, is concentrated and provides a supple mouth feel. The finish is lengthy and redolent of sweet raspberry jam with a hint of citrus to give it some balance. I'm going to drink mine on its own, but it would pair well with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Castello di Gabbiano "Bellezza" 2000
IGT Toscana $49.95 (652438)

A rich Pinot Noir-like nose with earthy, cranberry aromatics and light toasted notes. It is huge and rich in fruit-forward flavours (currants, cherries and plums), yet austere and awkward (needs a few more years to knit together) at the same time. Make no mistake; this will handsomely reward time in the cellar. Drink 2009 to 2015 with medallions of elk or other game. (VH)

***** cellar
Frescobaldi "Lamaione" 2000
IGT Toscana $59.95 (978411)

A monster Merlot with an aromatic profile (tar, black licorice and minty cassis) to match. This displays a huge mouth feel and is densely structured with ripe tannins, black berry flavours and a gorgeous tanginess that is apparent and appealing. The best is saved for last with a long finish that is dark Belgian chocolate and fresh raspberry compote. Drink 2008 to 2015 with your very best friend après-ski. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Frescobaldi "Mormoreto" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
IGT Toscana $59.95 (951210)

This glycerin-rich bruiser stains your glass, releasing a lifted nose of sweet raspberries, tobacco and oak. This needs a lot of time, but its flavour profile has rich black cherry fruit, vanilla undertones and some very serious, grainy tannins. A well balanced finish that portends a long life and a treasured pleasure to open from 2009 to 2020. Pair with grilled rare beef in a Port wine sauce. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Marchesi Antinori "Solaia" 2001
IGT Toscana $169.95 (987586)

A nose of toasted oak, herbs, concentrated black cherry fruit and currants drift from the glass. It is a hugely concentrated effort that has fruit-forward characteristics (spicy plums and black berries) along with perceptible tannins and a great spine of tanginess that will allow this medium to full-bodied iconic classic to age gracefully. Cellar in confidence 2008 to 2015 and serve with Boeuf Bourguignon. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Vigna Cerbaia Brunello di Montalcino 1999
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $58.95 (652446)

Fragrant aromatics of coffee, plums and herbs are evident on the nose while the flavours are rich and concentrated; spiced cranberries and sour cherries predominate with a nice core of sweet raisins underneath. The tannins have a stranglehold around everything right now and will need time to release. A long concentrated finish signals this will reward patient cellaring. Try 2008 to 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Tedeschi "Capitel dei Nicalò" 2001
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (984997)

The nose is funky with forest floor, savoury cherries and herbed nuances predominant. On the palate, this full-bodied red displays sensationally rich and concentrated flavours of black, ripe, sweet berries and raisined fruit. There is a considerable amount of acidity that would allow this wine to pair extremely well with tomato-based sauces. (VH)

Portugal: red wine

**** drink now
Quinta de S. Francisco Tinto 2000
DOC Óbidos $14.95 (657460)

From a region more famous for its quaint walled city than wine, this gorgeous red also deserves attention. Simple ripe red fruit flavours emanate from this medium-bodied offering that beguiles you with its yin and yang; a light nose with richly concentrated fruit (spiced plums and cassis) flavours, round and supple in the mouth yet rustic and bit bold on the long, sweet, fruity finish. This would be a match made in heaven with grilled chouriço (smoky Portuguese sausage). (VH)

Spain: red wine

**** drink now
Bodegas Aragonesas "Mosen Cleto" 2001
DO Campo di Borja $10.95 (368290)

This 75% Grenache, 25% Tempranillo blend has it all. It delivers ripe fruit flavours, lovely balance, good structure and grip and a lengthy sweet, fruit-forward finish. This is honest, well made wine at an excellent price. Try paired with all manner of grilled and roasted meats or pasta then congratulate your self on recognizing a bargain. (VH)

**** cellar
Torres "Mas la Plana" Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
DO Penedès $39.95 (617456)

Already showing its age in the glass, yet still displaying a robust tannic structure, this brick-coloured classic gives off a perfumed nose of tobacco and sour cherries. It has rich fruit (spiced cherries) flavours that carry through to the medium length finish. Give it 2 more years to soften up then drink by 2010. Enjoy with grilled and herb-encrusted crown roast of pork. (VH)


Upstream on winecurrent

Watch for these wines in future Vintages releases.

Vintages "New Discovery," November 2005

****1/2 drink or cellar
Katnook "Founder's Block" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Coonawarra, South Australia $17.95

Katnook does it again. This is a huge, fruit-saturated Coonawarra Cab with a gamut of aromas and flavours: raspberry, plum, dark cherry, coffee, mint, spices and herbs, among them. But it's no simple-minded blockbuster. It's well structured and elegant, with fine drying tannins and oak that complements the fruit. It's good drinking now, but will improve over the next five years. (RP)

New in Vintages in Nov 05

***** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (589945)

Sweet coconut, mint and cassis aromatics emanate from the generous nose. This a fruit bomb with a touch of elegance. The flavours are predominantly pure, rich, dark fruit while the lengthy and luxurious finish blasts away with more of the same layering on chocolate and coffee notes. It has good structure and fine balance, is not the least bit jammy or over-oaked and would be a proud partner to backstraps of rare grilled lamb from now to 2015. (VH)


New in Vintages in December 05

***** drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann 'Mentor' 2000
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (724336)

The iconic 'Baron of the Barossa' still has lots of life in him and his wines. This 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 4% Merlot blend is like all Lehmann wines, meticulously balanced, not over-oaked, reasonable alcohol (only 13%) and not at all jammy. Look for herbaceous minty notes overlaid with cassis and licorice on the nose and full flavour profile of ripe, black berry fruit, plus fine, ripe tannins and a fruit-driven finish that is awesome in its strength and length. (VH)

New in Vintages in Dec 05

***** drink now
De Bartoli 'Black Noble' Multi-Vintage
Riverina, New South Wales $36.95 (677104) 375 ml

A stunning fortified (17.5%) dessert wine that is unique and irresistible. As the dark brown viscous liquid stains your glass, glorious aromas of treacle, soy sauce and toffee drift from the lifted nose. The flavour profile is more of the same (toffee, mocha and sweet molasses) whilst the unctuous mouth feel is balanced off nicely so not the least bit cloying. Made similar to PX Sherry, and not totally unlike in taste and texture, it is derived from a solera of Semillon dating back to 1972 with an average age of 8 years in your glass. Serve chilled on its own, with chocolate or spiced Xmas cake. An Aussie treasure (VH)

New in Vintages in February '06

***** drink or cellar
Tyrell's 'Rufus Stone' Shiraz
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (542100)

This stalwart, still family-owned, Hunter Valley winery has branched out into SA. Look for a bold and super delicious red that has a touch of 5% Malbec, but is all Shiraz (black pepper, spice and smoky cherries) on the aromatic nose. It is full-bodied and gushing with black, ripe fruit flavours and wisely sealed under screw cap to seal them in. The lengthy, well balanced, fruit-driven finish suggests some life (now to 2010) and a pairing with all manner of grilled lamb or pork. (VH)


New in Vintages in March '06

****1/2 drink or cellar
Parker Coonawarra Estate 'Terra Rossa' Merlot 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $37.95

Unfortunately, John Parker passed away in 2002 and the winery has subsequently been sold, but not before he produced this medium to full-bodied treasure. It has been richly enhanced by 15% Cabernet Sauvignon as it lifts the nose (minty, spiced black plums, leather and toasty oak) and assists in providing a concentrated flavour profile of dark chocolate, black cherries and plums. New French oak, low yield from near-20 year old vines, egg white fining and a master's touch coalesce in this elegant wine. The lengthy fruit-forward finish portends ageing potential. Drink 2007 to 2012. (VH)

Vintages "Classics" Catalogue, Spring 2006

***** drink or cellar
Don Maximiano "Founder's Reserve" 2000
Aconcagua Valley, Chile $69.00

The latest Don Max is from the cooler 2000 vintage and shows a touch more complexity and a little restraint on the fruit. But there's no change in the quality that makes this a perennial favourite. This is one big Cabernet, with luxurious texture and astonishing complexity. The flavours swirl in intertwining layers, as concentrated dark tree and berry fruit vie for attention with notes of spice, black pepper, coffee, herbs, and chocolate. No surprise that this is from low-yield vines and hand-sorted grapes. The 18 months in new French barrels is handled so well that it adds to the complexity, texture, and fine tannic structure, without overlaying the fruit. You can drink this now (it'll be six years old by the time it's offered) with red meat, or stash it away for another five to ten years. (RP)

Vintages "Classics" Catalogue, Spring 2006

***** drink now
Rockford Wines 'Basket Press' Shiraz 2001
South Australia $74.95 (736488)

Brilliant winemaker Chris Ringland uses gently-pressed grapes from the Barossa and close-by Eden Valley to fashion this opulent red. He also makes minuscule amounts of wine under his own label, garnering 100 points from Parker, but this is as close as you will get to that. Eucalyptus and spicy, black peppered cassis aromatics form the generous nose. The flavour profile (sweet Bing cherry and ripe bramble berry) are gorgeously wrapped around ripe tannins that fashion a supple texture. The luxuriously lengthy finish is powered by gobs of fruit and a cleansing zest that provides interest and balance. (VH)

Coming to Vintages sometime soon!

****1/2 drink or cellar
DeBortoli Noble One 2003
New South Wales $28.00/375ml

This is the latest vintage of a popular entry in Vintages and Australia's best-known dessert wine. Made from botrytis-affected Semillon from the extra dry 2002-2003 growing season, this has pungent super-ripe fruit (peach, apricot tart, kumquat). It's quite viscous, but has just enough acidity to keep it on this side of cloying. Drink it now with rich fruit-filled desserts or with baklava or cellar up to ten years. (RP)

New on the LCBO General List

These are recent additions to the General List or new vintages of current LCBO holdings.

Australia

**** drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 888' Cabernet Merlot
South Eastern Australia $14.45 (324574)

A 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot blend, this red has a beautiful nose of violets, toast and spiced dark fruit. On the palate there are cassis and currant flavours with wisps of an herbaceous note. It has good grip, even a grainy and rustic appeal, whilst the finish is lengthy and fruit-driven. This would be showcased well with a grilled rare strip loin steak, now to 2008. (VH)

Chile

***1/2 drink now
Calama Merlot
Central Valley $9.40 (612440)

A pretty concentrated, fruit-forward Merlot, with some nice spicy notes and a tangy texture. Medium bodied, very dry, and with a little warmth from the 14% alcohol, it pairs well with rich red mat dishes. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Valle de Curicó $11.40 (263574)

Grown in some of Chile's coolest vine locations, cool-fermented to retain fruit freshness, this is crisp and clean with the fresh fruit flavours you want from a Sauvignon Blanc: lemon-lime, grass, gooseberry. Lighter in texture than the typically more pungent New Zealand SBs, this goes well with seafood appetizers like oysters and grilled shrimp. (RP)

**** drink now
Errazuriz Shiraz 2004
Valle Central $13.40 (604066)

Errazuriz was the first to plant Shiraz in Chile, and produced the first vintage as recently as 1996. It's now the third most planted red after Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, and can be found throughout the country, producing different styles from cooler and warmer locations. This example, from the warm Central Valley, offers rich dark fruit, spicy notes and a dash of pepper. With some complexity from the 8-10 months in American and French barrels, it's medium-plus in body, and makes a great match for well-seasoned red meat. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Errazuriz Max Reserva 2003
Aconcagua $17.95 (335174)

This is one of the great bargains in the General List. It's 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in (50% new) French barrels, and it gives full-fruit quality with marvelous richness and complexity. Look for a core of concentrated black fruit with notes that include spice, pepper, mint, and chocolate. The balance is fine, the tannins are sleek, the finish is long, and the price is compelling. Serve it with big food, like a medium-rare steak. (RP)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Nobilo 'Regional Selection' Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough $15.40 (554444)

Peach and grassy aromatics reach out to the taster in this fleshier-than-most white from the premier region in NZ. The flavour profile has all the usual suspects (citrus, passion fruit and gooseberry), but it is that plush mouth feel coupled with the clean zippy tang that makes this something special. Try with quickly grilled bass drizzled with lemon juice. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Sally Cat Pinot Noir 2004
New Zealand $14.95 (610667)

One of Coopers Creek's cat series, Sally has attractive and fairly typical Pinot aromas: it's earthy, spicy, edgy, with good sweet cherry fruit. The flavours are quite intense cherry and spice, with nice balance. Overall, it's well made and well priced, and makes a very good partner for grilled lamb. (RP)

Ontario

***1/2 drink now
Strewn Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2003
Cellared in Canada $11.95 (522730)

A lighter styled, quite elegant Chardonnay that's a blend of Ontario and foreign wines. It offers flavours in the apple, pear and white peach zones, with citrus and light oaky layers. The acidity adds crispness and food-friendliness, and you should drink this with grilled chicken and Atlantic salmon. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn "TwoVines" Riesling Gewürztraminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (467662)

Fairly light in texture, this gives spicy aromatics of peach, citrus and tropical fruit that lead to a slightly off-dry replay. It makes a pleasant sipping wine as an aperitif and a nice companion to lighter spicy Thai dishes. (RP)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch $9.95 (610907)

Quite aromatic, with floral and sweet citrus on the nose, leading to a crisp, fruity mouthful of red grapefruit and apple with slight honey notes. It's nicely done and excellent for sipping, as an aperitif, and as a partner for grilled seafood. (RP)

Spain

****1/2 drink now
Felix Solis Los Molinos Gran Reserva 1997
DO Valdepeñas $13.95 (620971)

One of the bargains on the General List, this is a medium bodied, flavourful Tempranillo with terrific complexity and style. The wine's deceptive lightness conceals real depth of flavour, which include layers of red fruit and spice. The tannins are soft and it's ready for drinking now with hearty red meat dishes or aged cheeses. (RP)

New from Ontario wineries

These wines are generally available only from the winery. You can order on-line using the links at www.winecurrent.com (Also see new Ontario wines listed in "New on the LCBO General List")

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (268342)

Available in some Vintages stores and from the winery, this is a quite opulent Chardonnay that's full-bodied and richly textured and flavoured. Look for peach and tropical fruit, with light toastiness from the barrel-fermentation and aging. The balance makes it a great match for roast chicken or grilled salmon. Drink or now or in the next three years. (RP)

**** drink now
Sandbanks Riesling 2004
VQA Ontario

A Riesling made from Prince Edward County fruit by one of the more successful winemakers who's getting her wines onto lists in Ottawa and elsewhere. This needs 10 or 15 minutes to open up (why not decant it?), but when it does it gives up quite lovely aromas and focused flavours (sweet pear, melon, tropical) with mineral notes. It's crisp and clean, and makes a fine partner for grilled and slightly spicy seafood. To order, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)


New in restaurants

These wines, not on sale in the LCBO or Vintages, are available directly from the agents by the case (usually 12, but sometimes 6 bottles). Contact the agent for more information.

**** drink or cellar
Katnook "Founder's Block" Shiraz 2002
Coonawarra $18.30

A lovely, rich, fruity Shiraz with attractive herbal notes. Flavours of dark plum, raspberry, coffee, mint and pepper predominate, and they're in very good proportion with the acidity. Well made, well priced, and a great partner for grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3
stars Wines well worth trying
2

stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1
star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half
star Represents a half star
2
glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or
cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar


Cheers,

Rod & Vic