September 25, 2012 Newsletter
Here’s a great opportunity for those in the vanity of the GTA or Ottawa Capital Region to spend this Saturday, September 29th, in Prince Edward Country wine region attending TASTE, their 11th annual epicurean experience. Wine, beer, ciders, cuisine, music and artisanal products are all under one roof. For detailed information, contact info and how to book tickets, click here.Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
- Exceptional value wines – six wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’; one in the September 29 release, three in the New in the LCBO Portfolio and two in New in Ontario Wineries, ranging from $8.95 to $17.15. - Finding Waldo – 4 stars, 500 mL @ $18.20 not made from grapes – listen for the buzz.
- Konzelmann Estate Winery – there’s only one 750 mL Chardonnay in the entire release – it earned the rating at only $11.95 in New in the LCBO Portfolio section.
September 29, 2012 Vintages Release
Tuscany Feature
Rocca Della Macìe Chianti Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti $15.95 (111641) 13.5% alcohol
Value-laden and brimming with fruit flavour and a luxurious, lip-smacking aftertaste, it sports a lifted nose of charry wood smoke, leather and espresso roast aromas. The palates’ washed with dark berry fruit, red currant and juicy, lively cherry interwoven with roasted herbs. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with glorious blaze of fruit on the finish—black currant and plum—underpinned by supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Toscolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (069369) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, fennel and tobacco leaf on the nose, it rich and pure on the palate with a persistent stream of black currant and ripe mulberry mingling with roasted herbs and dark chocolate. Mid-full weight with generous mouth feel, the lingering finish washes in waves—mocha, juicy black Bing cherry and spice-infused black plum. Highly recommended given the price-quality ratio—well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Dei Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2008
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $28.95 (285510) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of mixed field berry fruit, floral notes and tobacco dance off the glass of this mid-weight, tangy, racy Nobile. Nicely textured and balanced on the palate, there’s a river of red currant and pomegranate nicely balanced with darker berry and cherry fruit. The mid-length aftertaste layers on good moderating acidity and a lick of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours. (Vic Harradine)
Antinori ‘Pian Delle Vigne’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $59.95 (651141) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and pure, this showcases complexity, structure, deft balance and, most importantly, succulent fruit flavour. Black liquorice, tobacco and dark berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a rich, luxurious stream of black currant, bramble berry pie, espresso roast and anise. Medium bodied with excellent mouth feel, the flavours replay on the lingering aftertaste underpinned by soft, ripe tannin, framed by mouth-watering tang. Good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
Livio Sassetti Brunello Di Montalcino 2005
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $39.95 (287284) 13.5% alcohol
This is top-drawer Brunello with the price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. It opens with a glorious array of aromas including tar, cherry / berry fruit along with wisps of anise and fennel. It’s structured, layered and charming on the palate with an endless wash of cassis, juicy black cherry and tangy, desiccated cranberry. It brims with the promise of ripe fruit—cherry and mulberry—on the finish that’s tied up for now with grippy tannin. Pour 2014 to 2020; it’ll be worth the wait. (Vic Harradine)
Silvio Nardi Brunello Di Montalcino 2007
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $41.95 (922054) 14.0% alcohol
Graphite, leather, spice and field berry fruit aromas intro a persistent, highly focused beam of red berry fruit—currant, cranberry and pomegranate—interlaced with sprigs of herbs and spice. It broadens out on the aftertaste with ripe dark berry fruit peeking from under a blanket of perceptible tannin. It’s mid weight with good texture. There’s enough fruit, oomph and acidity to lay it down and pour 2014 to 2020.
Triacca Spadino 2010
IGT Maremma $15.95 (288001) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of leather, lilac and plummy tones abound. It’s balanced, beautiful and brimming with fruit—racy black currant, juicy black Bing cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry—flowing over the palate and through the luscious, lingering finish. Mid weight with good mouth feel, there’s moderating acidity for balance and enough tannin for structure and interest with wisps of dark toast and minty notes on the aftertaste. Pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)
Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso 2009
DOCG Bolgheri Rosso $19.95 (39834) 14.0% alcohol
Hailing from the tony terroir of ‘Sassicaia’, considered the first Super Tuscan, this was hand-picked, wild-yeast fermented and spent 12 months in oak before bottling. Delicate aromas of smoked bacon, leather and pipe tobacco waft easily from this smooth and silky red blend. Black currant and juicy red cherry mingle with dried herbs and kitchen spice on the mid-weight palate. It finishes balanced and lengthy with mocha and licorice and lip-smacking dark berry fruit. Great value here. (Vic Harradine)
Moris Morellino Di Scansano 2010
DOCG Morellino Di Scansano $18.95 (992560) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, sandalwood and roasted herbs mingle with black licorice and charred wood on the involved nose. The palate’s treated to a tangy, racy river of red currant and sour cherry interwoven with riper, sweeter briary berry and ripe blueberry. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with good balance and complexity throughout. It finishes with a solid core of dark fruit, good acidity and an underpinning of supple tannin. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with Steak Florentine. (Vic Harradine)
Elisabetta Gepetti ‘Le Pupille Poggio Valente’ Morellino Di Scansano ‘Riserva’ 2007
DOCG Morellino Di Scansano $34.95 (230680) 14.5% alcohol
A cellar dweller worth the wait, this opens with a lifted nose of dark berry fruit, leather, and whiffs of lilac. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with palate-bathing flavours of ripe briary berry and tangy red cherry interwoven with fennel and herbaceous notes. The drying, tannin-laced finish layers on dark fruit, acidity and savory notes. Should pour well 2016-2022. (Vic Harradine)
Jacopo Biondi ‘Santi Sassoalloro’ 2008
IGT Toscana $35.95 (981407) 13.5% alcohol
100% Sangiovese Grosso, this Super Tuscan dishes up a layered, complex mouthful of tangy, racy, fruit-laden flavour. Dark toast, mocha and dark berry aromas provide segue for a juicy, lively stream of red currant, black Bing cherry and luscious cassis washing over the palate in waves. Good balance, mid weight and generous mouth feel showcase a well-made red that finishes in a chewy, fruit-filled aftertaste underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or tuck away for optimum drinking 2015 – 2020, (Vic Harradine)
Luce Della Vite ‘Luce’ 2009
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 15.5% alcohol
Dark and brooding, almost opaque, leather, dark berry fruit, pencil shavings and espresso roast aromas abound in this luscious red blend—75% Merlot, 25% Sangiovese. It’s mid-full weight with velvety mouth feel and oodles of ripe fruit and charm. Rich, layered and structured, flavours of black plum compote, dark black cherry and roasted herbs spill over the palate and through the lingering, luscious and layered aftertaste with its underpinning of tannin. You could tackle it now after a three-hour aeration/decant, but better 2014-2020. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino ‘Modus’ 2008
IGT Toscana $28.95 (912956) 13.5% alcohol
Cedar, exotic spice and dark toast aromas provide segue to a swashbuckling array of flavour dancing across the palate—sour cherry and red currant nicely off-set with sweet, ripe mulberry garnished with espresso roast and mocha. It’s another of the lesser-known ‘Super Tuscans’—Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon—at a value-packed price. It’s medium weight, nicely textured with a lingering, balanced finish that’s brimming with luscious, rich dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Tenuta Sette Ponti ‘Oreno’ 2009
ICG Toscana $71.95 (735597) 14.5% alcohol
A remarkable red dishing up aromas of leather, lilac, dark toast and mint, this red blend—Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot—unleashes a round, mellow wash of well-textured, fruit-laden flavour. Luscious gobs of black currant and ripe mulberry juxtaposed with red berry fruit acidity deliver a balanced and beautiful gusher over the palate and through the mid-length finish. The aftertaste is garnished with supple tannin, espresso roast, cassis and savoury bits. Aerate/decant for three hours pouring with osso bucco—best 2014 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Pinot Family Feature
- The southern part of Mornington Peninsula is considered a premium cool-climate wine region in Australia, a top-drop spot for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Wineries vie for land with developers and Melbourne’s rich and famous who prize the area for its spectacular views, sandy beaches, close proximity to the city, serene lifestyle and tony-neighbourhood reputation; the perfect place to hobnob in their summer homes. Land prices and taxes soar, wine prices reflect it.
Stonier Pinot Noir 2010
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $24.95 (025338) 13.0% alcohol
Soft and supple with oodles of charm, you’ll find a lifted nose of rose petals, red berry fruit and spice. There’s a pure and focused steam of fruit with raspberry, strawberry and black plum compote to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied with good mouth feel and deft balance. It finishes with dark berry fruit, excellent moderating acidity and a gentle brush of ripe tannin adding structure and interest. Well made and well paced, offering very good value. (Vic Harradine)
Riorret Merricks ‘Grove Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2009
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $34.95 (282657) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of savory herbs, toasty notes and hints of bacon provide segue to a spirited, racy river of red currant and sour cherry mingling with tomato leaf and toasty notes. It’s light on its feet with the palate flavours wending their way through the mid-length, drying aftertaste. Pair with pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Kooyong Estate Pinot Noir 2010
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria $49.95 (282673) 13.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas of red berry fruit—raspberry, cranberry and cherry—mingle with savory notes and minerality. It’s mid-weight, well textured and racy with flavours of cranberry and ripe mulberry with smoky notes in the back ground. There are silky smooth tannins and an underpinning of ripe tannin throughout; it finishes with good balance, darker fruit and noticeable tang. (Vic Harradine)
- Central Otago, the most southerly wine region in the world, is New Zealand’s highest at 400 metres. Vines first planted in the late 1800’s with a serious revival beginning in the 1960’s, the region has risen to some prominence only in the last two decades. Pinot Noir is the grape of choice and they produce stunning wines. Most in the wine world claim Pinot Noir is incredibly difficult to grow, earning it the moniker, ‘the heartbreak grape’. I much prefer the take that KWV’s bright, young Chief Viticulturist, Marco Ventrella, in South Africa has. He offered the following during a tasting, “Pinot Noir is an exacting grape, it disdains growing in what the plant considers less-than-perfect conditions. It’s a ‘heartbreak grape’ when grown in the wrong place(s).”
Thatched Hut Pinot Noir 2011
Central Otago, South Island $19.95 (242933) 13.5% alcohol
Charry toast, aromatic bitters and red berry fruit on the nose, it dishes up a solid core of ripe and tangy, pretty red berry fruit—strawberry, raspberry and cherry. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it finishes balanced, lengthy and full of charm and fruit—black currant and cherry. This broadens out nicely on the finish, has good structure from supple tannin and offers exceptional value. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Carrick Pinot Noir 2009
Central Otago, South Island $37.95 (919837) 14.0% alcohol
This is stunning; it brims with pure fruit, has balance, silky-smooth mouth feel, good structure and ageability on its side. Spice and dark berry fruit intertwine with gamy and earthy notes on the involved nose. Brimming with ripe mulberry, black plum and black currant, it washes over the palate in textured, balanced waves. The aftertaste delivers more of the same interwoven with lip-smacking acidity and an underpinning of ripe, sweet tannin. Pinot lovers take note. (Vic Harradine)
Tarras ‘The Canyon Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
Central Otago, South Island $46.95 (287219) 14.0% alcohol
The sharp and lively nose unleashes aromas of sour cherry, piquant spice and savoury herb. There’s a laser-like beam of red currant and cranberry flavour interwoven with herbaceous notes on the palate, finishing with a dry, ripe red berry fruit aftertaste. It’s light-mid weight with nice texture and tangy acidity throughout. (Vic Harradine)
The Main Release
Ontario: Icewine
Tawse Cabernet Franc Icewine 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (306035) 200 mL 10.0% alcohol
The aromas of this opulent ice wine captivates—candied fruit and sweet floral notes juxtaposed with elusive herbal, vegetal aromas. Luscious in texture—like satin across the palate—the exquisite balance of sweet and tang brings mouth-watering crispness to balance the sumptuous honeyed, red fruit. Sip and savour on its own, or if you must, serve with a cranberry pecan tart. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Rosé Wine
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Rosé 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (172643) 12.5% alcohol
Charming salmon pink, this perennial favourite is produced from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay. An appealing fresh, floral note and cherry/berry aromas rush from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, deftly balanced, it’s clean, fruity and lively on the palate, the red fruit and juicy texture offering a delightfully tasty, crisp and flavourful finish. Sip away. (Susan Desjardins)
California: White Wine
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2010
California $11.95 (703710) 375 mL 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips in your favour and it’s the perfect size for two sharing small plates for lunch. Perfumed aromas—floral notes, toast and spiced orchard fruit—widen on the palate with a wash of balanced flavour—ripe, succulent nectarine, pineapple and quince jelly to the fore. Medium bodied and nicely textured, look for a clean, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
Alamos Torrontés 2011
Salta $13.95 (81539) 14.0% alcohol
A sexy alluring nose wafts easily from this light-on-its-feet, aromatic white from trusted producer, Wines of Catena—musk, rosewater and exotic spice. Flavours of blood orange, ripe apple and spiced yellow plum give way to a fruit-forward, mid-length finish. Pour on the deck or patio as an aperitif or sip and wile away an afternoon. (Vic Harradine)
South Africa: Red Wine
Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
WO Stellenbosch $23.95 (278358) 14.5% alcohol
This is a cracker—it’s cedar, ripe field berry fruit and graphite on the nose with a well-structured, endless wave of palate-coating, nicely balanced flavour throughout. Just released, there’s some toasty oak and vanilla still lurking, but the overall impression is cassis and sweet mulberry fruit mingling with bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture with an underpinning of supple tannin—what’s not to like? Aerate/decant two hours and pour with a serious slab of grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Masi ‘Brolo Campofiorin Oro Appaxximento’ 2008
IGT Rosso de Veronese $24.95 (976092) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, tobacco leaf and vanilla blend with dark berry fruit on the nose of this red blend—80% Corvina, 20% Rondinella. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and endless waves of palate-coating, complex flavour—cassis, juicy dark Bing cherry and black plum compote mingling with ripe fig. It finishes lengthy and balanced in a blaze of flavour with ripe mulberry and bramble berry fruit, good structure and no shortage of finesse. (Vic Harradine
Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (508507) 13.5% alcohol
Cedar, espresso roast and oodles of savory, toasted herbs aromas dominate the nose of this tangy, full of nerve and verve offering. It’s mid weight and light on its feet with racy red berry fruit and savory tones mingling with dark berry fruit in the background. The dry finish has oodles of acidity and steely tones underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant three hours serving with pasta in chorizo and tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
14 Hands ‘Hot to Trot’ White Blend 2010
Washington State $14.95 (280859) 13.0% alcohol
This chardonnay-Pinot Gris blend delivers a bouquet of aromas—tropical fruit, nectarine and spiced ripe apple. The palate’s coated with beautifully textured waves of crisp green apple and lemony citrus interlaced with spice-infused honeydew melon. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy, balanced finish of lip-smacking lemon yoghurt and ripe, juicy pear. Well paced, well priced and delicious. Pick up enough for that Thanksgiving bird. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (200535) 11.5% alcohol
Vanilla, kitchen spice and ripe, sweet apple on the nose, it’s balanced and beautiful brimming with crisp green apple, ripe pineapple and snappy lemon tang. Mid weight and nicely textured, the gorgeous aftertaste showers a lip-smacking wash of tangy, racy citrus mingling with ripe, luscious pear. What’s not to like? Pick up an armful for sipping or pouring with roast chicken, for instance. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann ‘Canada Red’ Zweigelt-Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (125260) 13.0% alcohol
Dark berry and spice aromas provide segue to a sweet, silky-smooth river of black currant and raspberry washing over the palate in waves interwoven with earthiness and toasty notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured throughout dishing up a rustic aftertaste of tangy berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and tobacco. Good to go now with grilled meat, burgers or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann ‘Canada White’ Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (125278) 11.5% alcohol
Honeyed pit fruit and floral notes on the nose, it sports a slightly off-dry wash of lime zest, ripe pineapple and lemon rind flowing over the palate echoing on the lingering racy finish. It’s mid weight with generous mouth feel and hints of spiced yellow plum on the aftertaste. Pours well on its own or alongside spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Konzelmann Shiraz 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (144857) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed field berry fruit and wood smoke aromas intro this fruit-filled, tangy Shiraz. Ripe, juicy black cherry, red currant and spiced black plum wash over the palate and through the lengthy, dry finish. It’s medium bodied with good texture and an aftertaste of dark toast and tangy red cherry. Poured and paired perfectly with grilled, smoked back ribs slathered in spicy, BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Sonoma County, California $18.95 (292151) 13.5% alcohol
Luscious, rich aromas flow freely—cassis, sandalwood and tobacco. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a persistent river of sweet, succulent mulberry, kirsch liqueur and black plum compote. The dry aftertaste layers on good moderating acidity underpinned by ripe, supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours before serving. Good value for a Cab from this upscale neighbourhood. (Vic Harradine)
J.P. ‘Azeitão Red’ 2010
Regional Península de Setúbal, Portugal $8.95 (286195) 13.5% alcohol
This lively red blend introduces itself with aromas of exotic spice and racy red berry fruit. A rush of red and dark berry fruit and spice bathe the palate. It’s balanced and mid-full weight sporting a finish of racy black currant, good moderating acidity and a lick of tannin. There’s ripe dark cherry on the aftertaste. Let it breathe a couple of hours serving with pizza, pasta in tomato sauce, burgers or grilled gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Gewürztraminer 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (065359) 12.7% alcohol
Strewn lifted their game with the 2011 ‘Terroir’ whites; they’re value-packed and brimming with flavour. Aromas of exotic spice, rosewater and floral notes fill the air. Robust and heavily perfumed on the palate, spice-infused flavours abound with lychee, pineapple and racy lemon to the fore. It has good weight and silky texture with a lovely Gewürzt bite of lemon pith on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
- Strewn fashioned a stellar line-up of white wines for their super-premium ‘Terroir’ series in what was considered a challenging year—heat spikes in July—and an equally challenging 2011 harvest—heavy rains. Winecurrent recently tasted four, all rated highly, with three earning an exceptional-value rating. There’s a new winemaker, Dr. Marc Bradshaw—Aussie born, but no stranger to these parts, he was recently with another prominent, premium Niagara winery. Appears he’s continuing to work his magic. The three below are winery-only, a Gewürztraminer above is available at the LCBO; make certain it’s 2011.
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Pinot Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.15 11.6% alcohol
Honeyed nectarine and spice-infused apple aromas presage a persistent river of tangy citrus interwoven with green apple and ripe tropical fruit—pineapple and melon. It’s beautifully balanced and medium bodied with good texture and a lingering aftertaste of mouth-watering crisp citrus and ripe pit fruit. Perfectly paired and poured with white pizza. A top drop; order a few for daily home or office delivery by phone 905-468-1229 or on-line from Strewn Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.15 11.2% alcohol
Strewn’s ‘Terroir’ series has never been better; they pop with lively flavour, deft balance and charm. Apple spice and honeysuckle aromas intro a delectable wash of racy lemon-lime and crisp Granny Smith apple interlaced with mineral tones on the palate. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, dry, lip-smacking finish of citrus and pineapple. Order a few for daily home or office delivery by phone 905-468-1229 or on-line from Strewn Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Sauvignon Blanc 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.15 12.9% alcohol
This is top-drawer Sauvignon Blanc with nerve, verve and a boatload of flavour. Alluring aromas of tropical fruit, peach and herbal notes provide segue for a river of palate-bathing flavours of tangy passion fruit, racy lime and slate/mineral notes. This bristles with lively acidity complemented by delectable fruit. The finish dishes up a lip-smacking experience. Dandy on its own, give it a go with mesclun under crumbled goat cheese. Order a few for daily home or office delivery by phone 905-468-1229 or on-line from Strewn Winery. (Vic Harradine)
Rosewood Estates ‘Mead Royale’ ‘Select Barrel Aged’ Honey Wine 2008
Ontario $18.20 500 mL 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of buckwheat honey, piquant spice, floral notes and marmalade presage a wash of flavour bathing the palate with honeyed pit fruit, dried apricot and orange peel to the fore. It’s nicely balanced, light-mid weight with lemon pith and wisps of oak interlaced in the drying finish. A lovely aperitif or serve with aged white cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano after dinner. Order by the case of 6 or 12 for daily home or office delivery from Rosewood Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic