September 13, 2012 Newsletter
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:- Exceptional value wines – two wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’; a Featherstone Cab Franc and an Albariño from sunny Spain. - Baker’s dozen – there are 13 wines from Ontario in this newsletter ranging from four to five stars and very good to superb, you wouldn’t go wrong with any.
- 5 stars – a stunning Château des Charmes 2009 Vidal Icewine @ $25.95 rings the five-star bell with a 200 mL bottle – a perfect ‘afters’ for two.
The Main Release – September 15, 2012
Dessert Wine
Torres ‘Floralis’ Moscatel Oro Non-Vintage
Spain $16.95 (642173) 500 mL 15.0% alcohol
Torres has been producing this wine since the 1940s – no wonder it’s so beautifully wrought! Tawny in colour, this lovely dessert wine has high-toned aromas of dried fruits—in particular dried apricots—honey and toast. The texture is rich, sumptuous and honeyed, with pretty notes of orange zest garnishing the dried fruit flavours. It’s full-bodied and opulent with tangy acidity a great foil for the sweetness. The finish is extended and very nicely balanced. It’s a treat on its own or with fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Ice Wine
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 200 mL 9.5% alcohol
A stunning expression of ice wine, not cloying or tiring on the palate, balanced and simply delicious. Peel marmalade, dried apricot and spun sugar on the nose, it dishes up palate-coating flavours of grilled pineapple, concentrated blood orange and honeyed pit fruit. It finishes full of nerve and verve with a lingering, lip-smacking, mouth-watering aftertaste. A special treat on its own, it also pours well with crème brûlée or crème caramel. (Vic Harradine)
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $69.95 375 mL (558288) 9.0% alcohol
Vigorous aromas of honeyed apricot and spiced tropical fruit provide segue for a palate-drenching wash of full-bodied, concentrated flavour—lemon chiffon pie, orange marmalade, spiced fruit flan and apple strudel. It’s layered and complex with just enough acidity providing a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with foie gras, fruit flan or drink on its own as dessert. (Vic Harradine)
Sparkling Wine
Cave de Hoen Mausberg Blanc de Blancs Brut Crémant d’Alsace
AOC Alsace $16.95 (171785) 10.5% alcohol
This provides good value, loads of flavour and serious fine-bead bubbles; what’s not to like? It opens with a tantalizing nose of orange blossom, honeyed orange and citrus aromas followed by a lovely mousse attack on the palate with oodles of racy zesty flavour—lemongrass, red currant and citrus galore. It’s light on its feet with a refreshing mouth-watering finish. It’s the perfect aperitif with which to welcome guests. (Vic Harradine)
LaMarca Prosecco Non-vintage
DOC Veneto, Italy $17.95 (287987) 11.0% alcohol
This is made from Glera grapes, formerly known as Prosecco. Exotic spice, lime cordial and pit fruit aromas jump from the glass. On the palate there’s a profusion of bubbles carrying along a nicely balanced wash of ripe white peach, racy lemon zest and tangy nuances of lime sherbet. It’s light-on-its-feet with good texture and a very clean and crisp, refreshing finish. A great aperitif, it’s easily paired with seafood appetizers – crab cakes, grilled prawns or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé
VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of Cabernet Franc. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with ice wine, it has a fine light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
2027 Falls Vineyard Riesling 2011
VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (294041) 11.0% alcohol
Bristling with nerve and verve, this luscious Riesling dazzles with sweet and tang flavour galore. Minerality, petrol and citrus on the nose, it excites the palate with a balanced, persistent stream of succulent white peach interwoven with crisp green apple and racy lemon. It finishes with lip-smacking energy and four or five more years of life—pick up a half dozen. Apples don’t fall too far from the tree, owner-winemaker Kevin Panagapkas’ father is a Wine Judge of Canada and a master, home winemaker. (Vic Harradine)
Bachelder ‘Niagara’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (302083) 13.6% alcohol
Structured, layered and charming, what’s not to like? Aromas of vanilla, oak, orange blossom and apple pie spice rip from the lifted nose. The palate’s infused with a gusher of racy, tangy lemon, ripe pit fruit and toasty oak with tinges of slate. It’s mid-full weight with a round, silky mouth feel brimming with flavour. There’s good moderating acidity and a lot to like about this; give it another year for the oak to knit. Pick up three and try every six months beginning with the 2013 Thanksgiving bird. (Vic Harradine)
Cave Spring Chardonnay Musqué 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (246579) 13.0% alcohol
A Musqué clone of Chardonnay, this brims with aromas of Muscat-scented spice, orange blossom and red licorice. Light-medium bodied with a generous, oily texture, there’s a persistent river of sweet ripe orchard fruit juxtaposed with racy tangy citrus throughout. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing. Sourced from two blocks of +25- and +12-year-old vines, it’s a unique, appetizing aperitif and welcoming wine also pairing well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (193482) 13.5% alcohol
Kitchen spice, nutmeg and floral aromas provide segue to a fabulous mouthful of layered, luscious flavours with Granny Smith apple, succulent white peach and oodles of refreshing lemon sherbet. It’s medium-full bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel, barely a wisp of oak and deft balance throughout. It finishes in a blaze of mouth-watering raciness and loads of charm. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate - Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
(Released September 1, stock remains in stores) Toasty oak, floral notes and nutmeg aromas flow freely from this medium-bodied, value-laden gem. Luscious flavours—crisp, clean and refreshing—run over the palate in endless, generously textured waves with tropical fruit, lemon citrus and wisps of oak to the fore. It’s charming and fruit forward with excellent moderating acidity finishing with mouth-watering tang. Give it a go around Christmas with everything perfectly aligned. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Claystone Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (33951) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of cherry cordial, kitchen spice and mixed berry fruit intro a nicely balanced, structured wash of flavour with pomegranate, strawberry, toasty oak and nuances of racy red currant interlaced with sprigs of herbs and spice. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a mid-length, balanced aftertaste framed by good acidity, underpinned by supple tannin. This is paired perfectly with coq au vin anytime over the next four years. (Vic Harradine)
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (64618) 12.3% alcohol
Light toasty notes, red berry fruit and graphite aromas introduce this well-balanced, medium-textured beauty that’s just brimming with ripe, juicy fruit and oodles of charm. Sweet ripe mulberry and red cherry interweave with excellent moderating acidity, wisps of nicely handed oak and a supple tannin underpinning. It finishes with a replay of the well-balanced fruit and with good tang—a very pretty red that shows extremely well. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2010
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
Rich, robust and rarin’ to go, this rips from the blocks with gorgeous aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, tar, dark chocolate and wisps of tomato leaf. Palate-coating flavours abound with racy pomegranate and ripe, briary berry interwoven with spice-infused black plum. It’s full bodied and fully textured with oodles of structure and tangy acidity. The lengthy aftertaste doesn’t let you down, more of the same… in spades. Baco doesn’t get much better than this—put a couple in the cart. (Vic Harradine)
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol
A superb Pinot punching well above the price—amongst the best tasted from Niagara’s stellar ’07 vintage; it’s rich, succulent and perfectly balanced. Opening with a perfumed nose of spice box, graphite and mocha, it bathes the palate with persistent cranberry tart, ripe Bing cherry and spice-laden sour cherry with hints of deftly integrated oak. It’s mid weight with very good mouth feel and a balanced, lip-smacking tangy finish; it doesn’t get much better than this. (Vic Harradine)
Vintage Ink ‘Mark of Passion’ Cabernet - Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (250209) 14.0% alcohol
(Released September 1, stock remains in stores) A blend of the two Cabernets plus Merlot fermented and aged separately an average of 16 months in oak barrels. Roasted herbs, dark chocolate and anise on the nose, this washes in fully textured waves over the palate with bright red cherry, sweet mulberry and a smidgen of black pepper. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced throughout with a lingering aftertaste of briary berry and savory bits. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red wine
Thomas Fogarty ‘Lexington’ Meritage 2006
Santa Cruz Mountains $49.95 (83352) 14.5% alcohol
A delicious Bordeaux blend—58% Cab Sauv, 25% Merlot, 17% Cab Franc—it received 22 months oak aging, 50% new French, and a glorious growing season. Field berry fruit, tobacco and cedar aromas on the nose, it unleashes a richly layered stream of ripe briary berry, racy red cherry and hints of black licorice that wash over the palate in delectable waves. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a balanced aftertaste that’s full of ripe, dark fruit and excellent moderating acidity mingling with ripe, supple tannin. Charming and certainly a candidate for a multiple purchase—drink now to 2017. (Vic Harradine)
Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Napa Valley $79.95 (189795) also 375mL $45.95 (258988) 14.5% alcohol
Big bucks – big wine; it’s rich and robust, brimming with flavour. Subdued aromas of mixed spice, wisps of wood smoke, dark berry fruit and sandalwood waft from the glass. Palate-coating waves of layered, luscious and structured flavours abound—black currant, kirsch liqueur and sweet ripe mulberry. It’s mid-full bodied, fully textured with a lengthy, balanced finish underpinned by sweet, ripe tannin. Both 375 mL and 750 mL good to go now and the 750 mL on to 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Signorello Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Napa Valley $62.95 (60152) 14.9% alcohol
This is a Wow! red blend—80% Cab Sauv, 12% Merlot, 8% Cab Franc—that’ll dazzle your palate with rich luscious flavour. Aromas of pipe tobacco, espresso roast and dark berry fruit provide segue for a full-bodied, fully textured gusher of cassis, briary berry with nuances of leather and underbrush. It’s persistent through the lengthy, dry and fruit-filled aftertaste. Try with thick, grilled strip loin off The Big Green Egg. (Vic Harradine)
Oregon: Red Wine
Cristom Sommers ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $43.00 (942490) 14.0% alcohol
It’s will-am-it, dammit! Lifted aromas of Asian spice, tobacco and toasty oak mingle with red berry fruit surge from this medium-bodied, nicely textured Pinot. Racy and lively flavours splash over the palate with spice-infused, ripe strawberry and mixed dark berry fruit galore coupled with moderating acidity and good structure. The aftertaste replays the flavours, finishing balanced and full of fruit. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Charles Cimicky ‘The Autograph’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $34.95 (27326) 14.5% alcohol
Rich and layered, there’s a tapestry of aromas in this crowd pleaser—cola, exotic spice, bramble berry compote, gamy notes and toasty oak. It’s mid-full weight and fully textured—round and robust, silky smooth—with a gusher of palate-coating flavour. Enjoy dark briary berry, sweet, ripe mulberry and black currant adorned by spice and espresso roast. Huge finish, complex, structured and fruit filled. If you cast bait in these pricey waters, reel in a few for drinking now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)
Penfolds ‘Bin 28 Kalimna’ Shiraz 2009
South Australia $34.95 (422782) 14.5% alcohol
Introduced as one of Penfolds first ‘bin’ wines five decades ago, then from a single-vineyard—this über-popular red is now more widely sourced. Listed in the vaunted Langton’s Classification, it’s one of Australia’s top drops. Spice, dark chocolate, floral notes and dark berry fruit aromas herald layered, persistent flavours of black currant and racy red cherry melding with vanilla and oaky notes. It’s medium-full weight with good texture and a lengthy aftertaste that’s fruit-laden garnished by lively acidity with supple tannin creeping in. Good to go now after a three-hour aeration/decant, you can safely drink until 2020. (Vic Harradine)
Pirramimma ‘Old Bush Vine’ Grenache 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (108068) 14.5% alcohol
Lively, lifted aromas of black pepper, lilac and dark cherry/berry herald a juicy, tangy spice-driven river racing over the palate—red currant and black plum garnished with dark berry fruit and toasty oak. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a balanced aftertaste of moderating acidity underpinned by wisps of tannin and Asian spice. Pour with dry-rubbed, slow-roasted pork. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Pfaffenheim ‘Cuvée Rabelais’ Pinot Gris 2011
AOC Alsace $19.95 (999342) 13.5% alcohol
This is rock solid, vintage after vintage. Generous aromas of spice, honeysuckle and ripe, apple abound providing segue for a rich and balanced wash of ripe apricot, sweet nectarine and tangy lemon curd. It’s light-medium bodied with nice texture and mid-length, off-dry aftertaste hinting of yellow peach and lemon zest. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis 2010
AOC Chablis $19.95 (289371) ?% alcohol
Floral, mineral and pit fruit aromas herald a racy, tangy wash of flavour with juicy nectarine, bracing lemon-lime interlaced with slate and minerality. It’s medium weight with good texture and a dry, crisp aftertaste that’s on the prowl for freshly shucked, briny oysters or a mound of grilled and garlicked prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Domaine La Soufrandise ‘Close Marie’ Pouilly-Fuissé 2010
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $27.95 (42622) 13.5% alcohol
White flowers, orchard fruit and citrus dominate the nose while the palate’s treated to a laser-like beam of Granny Smith apple and lemony, bracing citrussy acidity throughout. It’s light on its feet with mouth-watering, dry, crisp finish. Give it a go poured alongside pan-seared white fish showered in freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Roland Tissier & Fils Sancerre 2011
AOC Sancerre $20.95 (108514) 13.0% alcohol
Savory herbs, slate and citrus aromas unleash a mid-weight, generously textured stream of green apple, passion fruit and white grapefruit on the palate. It finishes in a blaze of tangy citrus mingling with a soupçon of heraceous notes on the dry, crisp and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pair with prawn or scallop ceviché.
France: Red Wine
Château Haut Chatain 2009
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $16.95 (298141) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of savory herbs, gamy notes and charred toast dominate the nose in this light-on-its-feet red blend. Sour cherry, cranberry and tangy currants swirl over the palate infusing the drying aftertaste joining sprigs of savory herbs and a lick of tannin. Paired well with meat-laden pizza or pasta in Bolognese sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Collosorbo Brunello Di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Montalcino $49.95 (285742) 14.5% alcohol
A stunning addition to the cellar, it’s a must-buy for wine lovers with means. Exotic Asian spice, cedar and espresso roast interweave with black licorice and cherry on the nose. It coats the palate with well-structured, complex flavours of red cherry and racy cranberry mingling with ripe, sweet mulberry and black plum compote. It’s charming, medium-full weight with a rich and robust, round, silky mouth feel and lingering finish, a tapestry of flavours—cassis, red cherry, tar and floral notes. (2006 Brunello vintage rated the top by Parker, 97 pts, since began rating in 1975) Drink 2014 – 2022 (Vic Harradine)
Domaine de la Côte de l’Ange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (75856) 15.5% alcohol
A top-drawer CdP producer, this bustle from the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, garrigue—perfumed Rhône Valley herbs—and tar. It’s balanced and beautiful with palate-coating flavours of cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry and a dash of racy sour cherry for balance. Mid-full weight with a silky smooth mouth feel, the aftertaste dazzles with concentrated juicy fruit flavour balanced by good acidity and an underpinning of supple tannin adding structure, ageability and interest—a hair from a 5-star rating. (Vic Harradine)
Château Ladouys 2008
AOC St-Estèphe $26.95 (680207) 12.5% alcohol
Ripe berry fruit, espresso roast and mixed spice aromas provide segue for a persistent stream of well-defined, nicely structured, rich, ripe, red berry fruit mingling with mocha and nuances of oaky notes on the palate. Medium bodied with a mid-length finish, there’s deft balance, good acidity and a touch of mocha on the aftertaste. Give it a go with grilled pork chops that were marinated in olive oil, soy sauce and garlic. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (943613) 13.5% alcohol
An alluring nose of sandalwood, red berry fruit and mixed herbs and spice herald a delectable wash of tangy sour cherry and ripe black currant flavour framed by good acidity and oodles of charm. This is medium weight with generous texture and a solid tannin structure on the fleshy, fruit-laden aftertaste. Value-laden and delicious, it’s worth serious consideration for a multiple buy. (Vic Harradine)
Ruffino Ducale ‘Oro’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $43.95 (353201) 13.5% alcohol
Tobacco, tar and sandalwood aromas provide intro to a gorgeous wash of blueberry and cassis with dark, juicy cherry—it’s nicely balanced with good structure throughout. This is 80% Sangiovese with the balance a blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot. Medium bodied with a fleshy, smooth mouth feel, the aftertaste is a blaze of good acidity with black, juicy Bing cherry, herbs and spice underpinned by supple tannin. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with the ultimate Italian stew - osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: White Wine
Burgáns Albariño 2010
DO Rias Baixas $17.95 (945063) 13.0% alcohol
Floral, mineral and lovely aromas of mandarin orange peel on the nose, it sports a lively, refreshing river of flavour with lemon curd and passion fruit blending with slate and lime zest on the palate and crisp, refreshing aftertaste. It’s light-mid weight with good mouth feel and excellent acidity balancing off the crisp, clean flavour. Pairs well with pan-seared, salt and peppered, breaded calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic