August 30, 2012 Newsletter
Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:- Exceptional value wines – nine wines earned the
icon indicating wines of ‘exceptional value’; prices start at $10.50 – eight are found in New in the LCBO Portfolio and one in New in Private Order - Finding Waldo – this is the white grape of Burgundy classically used to make Kir and the grape is called Aligoté. This particular wine is from Ontario at $13.55 earning 4 stars and a rating. If you haven’t yet tried it, I highly recommend you do.
- Huff Estates – if you haven’t yet tried having a case of wine shipped to your home, here’s a unique opportunity. Huff will ship a mixed case of 12 bottles (or a single wine of 12 bottles) free to your home or office and they have six wines reviewed below.
LCBO agency stores may be open on Labour Day, provided local municipalities do not object. All LCBO offices, including LCBO Customer Service and the helloLCBO Contact Centre will be closed on Labour Day. For Labour Day weekend store hours, customers should check for individual store hours with their local LCBO store or online at www.lcbo.com using the 'Store Search' feature.
You can also contact the toll-free, bilingual helloLCBO Contact Centre at 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226) or online at www.hellolcbo.com. In Toronto, call 416 365-5900. The TTY number for people who are deaf and hard of hearing is 416 864-6898 or 1-800-361-3291.
You can access the LCBO store nearest you that has stock of any wine with an LCBO number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. The stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before the Saturday release date with some stores posting even before then.
Vintages Release: September 1, 2012
Sparkling Wine
Jean Geiler Crémant d'Alsace Pinot Noir Brut Non-vintage
AOC Crémant d'Alsace, Alsace, France $18.95 (047191)
This is a delightful sparkling wine made in the same method as Champagne, but considerably less expensive. You'll love the nose; it's redolent with baked apple pie including the spicy aromas of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the racy and light- to medium-bodied side, it's all about plum, mineral and citrus flavours that provide a clean and refreshing attack and a fairly lengthy finish. You'll discover a hint of white peach, as well. (Vic Harradine)
Dessert Wine
Kourtaki Muscat Samos
AOC Samos $14.95 (938407) 15.0% alcohol
And now for something completely different, a ‘Vin Doux Naturel’—it’s a bottle you might not give a second glance… pity. This offers good value, a fabulous welcoming wine—over the rocks with a splash of tonic or soda—and can be served as dessert. Sweet flavours of dried apricot, honeyed apple and pear coat the palate and gorgeous finish. Great at summer gatherings. (Vic Harradine)
Lillet Blanc
Bordeaux $15.95 (322297) 17.0% alcohol
Golden-hued with a peachy note, this aperitif wine is a blend of Bordeaux wine and citrus liqueurs which has been produced since the late 1800s. It has engaging aromas and flavours of tropical fruit—mango with a squeeze of lime comes to mind—and orange-lemon marmalade. A spine of tangy acidity awakens the palate and acts as counterpoint to the ripe succulent fruit. Exotic spice and candied orange rind linger on the warm finish. Serve well chilled with a slice of orange, lemon or lime. (Susan Desjardins)
Champagne
Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Réserve’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $54.95 (036962) 12.0% alcohol
From the house made famous by ‘Champagne Charlie’, this blossoms forth with a bouquet of baking brioche, tree fruit and an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles adorned with crisp, lip-smacking flavour. Golden yellow-hued, there’s a lovely array of lively refreshing flavours with zesty citrus, mineral notes and white peach to the fore. One can never go far wrong with a bottle of this and freshly shucked oysters. As Champagne prices go, this offers great value. (Vic Harradine)
Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $99.95 (158550) 12.0% alcohol
Made from 100% Pinot Noir this was vinified saignée—not red wine mixed with white—capturing tantalizing spice, red licorice and berry fruit aromas and an alluring salmon-pink colour. It attacks the palate with mid weight, generous textures and a groundswell of flavour with black currant, strawberry and spiced Damson plum to the fore. This is lovely sipped on its own with the oomph to pair well with pan-seared salmon or a festive bird. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: White Wine
Henry of Pelham ‘Barrel Fermented’ Chardonnay 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
From a longstanding producer of consistently well-crafted wines comes this value-laden oaked Chardonnay. Sun-kissed stone and orchard fruit aromas are interwoven with hints of toast and vanilla. Dry, mid-weight and creamy, the fruit replays on the palate, the well-integrated oak creating a lovely round texture while the lively spine of acidity ensures balance. Spice and tang mingle on the extended finish. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: Red Wine
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (591404) 13.0% alcohol
This shows good balance and complexity and oodles of charm. Exotic spice, floral notes and red berry fruit on the nose, it bathes the palate in waves with red cherry and mixed, dark field berry mingling with nuances of beet root and spice. It’s mid weight with a creamy-smooth mouth feel and a dry, lingering aftertaste showcasing good balance of fruit and acidity. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
Beringer Chardonnay 2010
Napa Valley $24.95 (084988) 14.1% alcohol
The price-quality balance makes this a compelling buy as a California-styled Chardonnay with complexity, balance and lots of charm—poured perfectly with stuffed, roast chicken or turkey. Vanilla, tropical fruit and nutty nuances on the nose, a tangy wash of citrus and pineapple mingle with spiced tropical fruit throughout. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a long, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)
California: Red Wine
Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley $58.95 (685685) 15.7% alcohol
This is a heady gem that’s balanced and beautiful despite the hi octane. Ripe berry fruit and wood smoke aromas swirl from this medium-full bodied, nicely textured Napa Cab. Rich luscious flavours wash in waves with bramble berry, cassis and red currant mingling with dark chocolate and espresso roast coating the palate and infusing the lip-smacking, lengthy finish; it’s scrumptious. (Vic Harradine)
Argentina: White Wine
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2010
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.95 (142836) 14.2% alcohol
From a highly rated producer we see too infrequently, this offers aromas of sweet vanilla, dark toast and hazelnut as precursor to delicate, balanced flavours of crisp green apple, racy citrus and spice-infused yellow plum adorned with toasty notes from well-integrated oak. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and sports a mid-length refreshing aftertaste of lemon zest and ripe pineapple. Good value. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon 2009
AOC Chinon $19.95 (940783) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from hand-harvested fruit, free of herbicides and pesticides, this is a very attractive deep-ruby-hued Cabernet Franc that offers an abundance of enticing aromas—herbs, tobacco, ripe berry fruit, spice and graphite. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s firmly structured with a mouthwatering slightly bitter note underlying the lively texture. On the palate, raspberry and blackberry predominate, laced with contrasting floral and mineral notes, a nuance of espresso emerging on the dry, mid-length finish. Intricate and interesting, this wine will age at least 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)
Italy: Red Wine
Bossi Fedrigotti ‘Fojaneghe’ 2008
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti $29.95 (279109) 13.5% alcohol
A delightful red blend of 45% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, 15% Teroldego, it opens with a nose of black plum, underbrush and hints of cassis. It washes the palate with satiny-smooth waves of red currant and cranberry balanced with rich, succulent, ripe mulberry and spice. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a lengthy, balanced aftertaste. Pick up a couple pouring with osso bucco or boeuf bourguignon. (Vic Harradine)
Sampietrana ‘Vigna Delle Monache Riserva’ Salice Salentino 2006
DOC Salice Salentino $15.95 (247908) 13.5% alcohol
Delivering pleasure in a glass, here’s a red with no hard edges and a straightforward delivery of sweet fruity wine that’s balanced and delicious. Cherry cordial and kitchen spice aromas on the nose introduce nicely balanced, ripe, sweet cherry/berry fruit garnished with espresso roast and dark plum. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a mid-length, tangy, fruit-filled aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2006
DOCG Montalcino $59.95 (378257) 14.0% alcohol
Elegant and refined, this semi-transparent Brunello is alluringly aromatic—autumnal notes, earth, violet, red berries, and vanilla. Medium bodied, pliant tannin creates a satiny texture, fresh acidity complements vibrant red fruit, delicate notes of spice and pepper mingle with the underlying earthiness that leaves a subtle mark on the dry finish. It shows lovely complexity and balance. Savour the wine now or cellar long term to enjoy further evolution. (Susan Desjardins)
Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Valpolicella $34.95 (995910) 15.0% alcohol
Straightforward and pleasant aromas of fig, raisin and mocha presage a full-bodied river of nicely textured flavour of black plum compote, sweet Bing cherry and roasted coffee bean on the palate. It’s full-bodied with a lingering finish of bittersweet chocolate and red cherry. Good to go now with a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano or death-by-chocolate cake. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: September 15, 2012
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $24.95 (565861) 200 mL 9.5% alcohol
A stunning expression of icewine, not cloying or tiring on the palate, balanced and simply delicious. Peel marmalade, apricot and spun sugar on the nose, it dishes up palate-coating flavours of grilled pineapple, concentrated blood orange and honeyed pit fruit. It finishes full of nerve and verve with a lingering, lip-smacking, mouth-watering aftertaste. A special treat on its own, it also pours well with crème brûlée or crème caramel. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: September 29, 2012
Masi ‘Brolo Campofiorin Oro Appaxximento 2008
IGT Rosso de Veronese $24.95 (976092) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of sandalwood, tobacco leaf and vanilla blend with dark berry fruit on the nose of this red blend—80% Corvina, 20% Rondinella. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and endless waves of palate-coating, complex flavour—cassis, juicy dark Bing cherry and black plum compote mingling with ripe fig. It finishes lengthy and balanced in a blaze of flavour with ripe mulberry and bramble berry fruit, good structure and no shortage of finesse. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO Portfolio
Bodegas Castaño ‘Hécula’ Monastrell 2009
DO Yecla, Spain $11.95 14.0% alcohol
Formerly a Vintages Essentials and fashioned from dry-farmed, 60-year-old vines, this is a bargain. Aromas of cedar, dark berry fruit and toasty notes provide segue to this balanced and boldly flavoured beauty. It’s brimming with dark briary berry, red cherry and currant on the nicely textured palate and lingering, juicy, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with sprigs of floral and herbs on the finish. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Vineyard’ Aligoté 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $13.55 (296848) 13.0% alcohol
Sourced from a single, 3.5 acre block of low-yielding fruit, it’s balanced and brimming with flavour and charm. Pear, apple and mineral notes on the nose provide segue to a medium-full bodied, nicely textured river of flavour with good moderating acidity. Look for Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and citrus interlaced with slate on the palate infusing the crisp, balanced, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.55 (057349) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, toast and dark berry fruit blend with vivid floral notes. This is wonderfully tangy with red berry fruit, spice-infused black plum and hints of blueberry. Mid weight and nicely textured, it rolls in silky-smooth waves on the aftertaste brimming with balanced, ripe fruit, spice and a dollop of charm. (Vic Harradine)
Paul Mas Estate ‘Nicole Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2010
IGP Pays d’Oc $14.95 (293134) 14.0% alcohol
With a near-even split of varieties, the nose offers woodsmoke, cola and cedar aromas. It’s lively, balanced and brimming with ripe fruit on the palate with black currant, dark, juicy cherry and black plum to the fore. Medium bodied with generous texture, the finish is balanced and lingering. Each sip’s as good as the one before; a seriously good red blend for a pittance. (Vic Harradine)
Movendo Moscato Non-vintage
IGT Moscato-Sicilia, Italy $12.95 (277244) 8.0% alcohol
Grape, floral and exotic spice on the nose, this light-on-its-feet, low-alcohol, 100% Moscato showcases a rush of delicious flavour—lemon chiffon pie, key lime and tropical fruit. It has good texture and a lingering, lovely aftertaste. Definitely suited for sipping, it’s a great partner with soft, white cheese, fruit flan or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Mirassou Pinot Grigio 2011
California $12.95 (274480) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of honeyed peach and floral notes with hints of lychee waft easily from the glass of this balanced and brimming-with-fruit beauty. Waves of spice-infused, ripe yellow plum and honey dew melon wash over the palate in generously textured waves persisting through the refreshing aftertaste garnished with lively citrus tones. Well made, well priced and well… delectable—take a sip and you’ll know why. (Vic Harradine)
Mirassou Pinot Noir 2011
California $12.95 (185249) 13.5% alcohol
Easy to understand why this is so popular, it’s balanced and boasting sweet, ripe fruit. Bramble berry, spice and cola on the nose, there are mid-weight, nicely textured waves of ripe black currant, spice-infused, sweet black plum and red cherry washing over the palate, infusing the lingering, balanced aftertaste. It’s poured well on its own or alongside roast chicken or duck. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (349191) 12.5% alcohol
This red blend opens with quiet aromas of savory herbs and hints of tobacco. Red cherry, currant and a solid underpinning of tannin wash over the palate infusing the drying finish moderated by good acidity. It’s light on its feet with nice texture and a craving to snuggle up to pasta in tomato sauce or pepperoni pizza. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Fusion’ Gewurztraminer Riesling 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (349126) $12.95 11.5% alcohol
Exotic aromas of Asian spice, rosewater and floral notes swirl from the nose of this light-medium bodied, perfumed blend. A wash of citrus, pineapple and perfumed nectarine brush the palate lacing the aftertaste with its tell-tale Gewürztraminer bite, that’s a good thing. It’s versatile at the table fronting up well to spicy Asian dishes, young creamy cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Pinot Grigio 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00 (146787) 12.0% alcohol
Floral, spice and orchard fruit on the nose, it dishes up a spirited wash of citrus tang—lemon pie filling and key lime mingling with green apple. Mid weight and nicely textured, this light-on-its-feet Grigio delivers a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. A good sipper, it also shows well with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)
Redtree Moscato 2011
California $11.95 (269951) 9.0% alcohol
Ripe apple and orange blossom aromas rip from the glass of this low-alcohol Moscato. The palate’s treated to a wash of sweet, ripe fruit with lemon yoghurt, ripe pineapple and succulent ripe pear to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied with nice mouth feel, a slight spritz on the tip of the tongue and a sweet, fruit-filled aftertaste. A good sipping wine and nice match with fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)
Reif Estate Winery Cabernet / Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (565713) 13.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of sandalwood and mixed berry fruit mingle with black plum on the nose of this mid-weight, textured red blend. Tangy red cherry, cranberry and ripe black berry flavour meld with savory herbs on the palate. This is medium bodied with good acidity It finishes lengthy with sprigs of savory, green herbs and a hint of tannin. (Vic Harradine)
Reif Estate Winery Chardonnay / Sauvignon Blanc 2010
VQA Niagara River $11.95 (65599) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with aromas of orange blossom, citrus and ripe pit fruit. Gorgeous waves of ripe yellow peach, pear and lemon zest wash over the palate in medium-weight, beautifully textured waves. It finishes balanced, crisp and refreshing brimming with charm and fruit-filled flavour. What’s not to like? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Huff Estates Chardonnay 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of white flowers and tropical fruit interweave with citrus on the nose while the palate’s treated to a lighter-styled, tangy river of lemon zest and grapefruit zing throughout. It’s clean and crisp with a laser-like aftertaste of crisp acidity and Granny Smith apple. Give it a go with pan-seared sole and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates Merlot 2011
VQA Ontario $19.95 12.8% alcohol
Savory and mixed field berry fruit on the nose, this showers a spirited rush of tangy red currant and cranberry interwoven with black currant and spice. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and excellent moderating acidity underpinned by supple tannin on the palate and throughout the lip-smacking finish. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates ‘South Bay Vineyards’ Merlot 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark cherry and hints of cassis mingle with dark toast and tobacco heralding a gorgeous, balanced wave of red currant, sour cherry and savory herbs splashing over the palate interweaving with ripe briary berry and kitchen spice. It’s medium bodied, tangy and racy throughout with a racy, zingy snap on the aftertaste along with a gentle lick of tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2011
VQA Ontario $19.95 12.5% alcohol
The exotic nose of red licorice, binned apple with tropical fruit peeking through sets the stage for a bold and balanced Gris. Lively flavours on the palate—blood orange, lemon drop and white peach—give way to a balanced, refreshing aftertaste garnished with orchard fruit and mineral notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and oodles of charm. Closely related to Pinot Noir, you may catch a glimmer of a pink hue in this Pinot Gris. Lovely on its own, it also pours well with roast chicken or roast pork. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates ‘Sculpture Series’ Riesling Reserve 2011
VQA Ontario $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of green tea, slate and mixed orchard fruit abound heralding a laser-like beam of bracing lemon zest, white grapefruit and minerality on the palate. This is medium weight with nice texture and racy, bone-dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Give it a go with prawn or scallop ceviché or a mess of grilled garlic prawns showered with freshly squeezed lemon. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Huff Estates Riesling ‘Off Dry’ 2011
VQA Ontario $17.95 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of white flowers, mineral and pear provide segue to this barely off-dry Riesling. Tangy lemon curd and lime yoghurt interweave with racy grapefruit on the palate. It’s mid weight with nice mouth feel and dry, crisp and racy finish. This pours extremely well with mussels in cream sauce or a plateful of pan-seared calamari under a generous squish of fresh lemon. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed) from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $20.00 12.5% alcohol
Charred toast, cedar and forest-floor aromas herald a smooth and silky, palate-bathing wash with cassis, dark cherry and field berry fruit to the fore. It’s mid-full weight and brimming with ripe, dark fruit. It’s robust and raunchy on the dry finish with loads of fruit and excellent acidity underpinned by perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before pouring. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Franc 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.00 13.5% alcohol
Introducing itself with delicate aromas of red berry fruit and kitchen spice, it washes over the palate with mixed red berry fruit, sour cherry and sprigs of savory herbs and spice. It’s medium bodied and finishes up framed by good moderating acidity and perceptible tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours pouring alongside pulled pork slathered with mild salsa. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
Pillitteri Estates Winery Merlot 2010
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $20.00 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of plum, vanilla and wood smoke abound. On the palate, juicy briary berry, succulent cherry and black currant join racy red currant persisting through the lively aftertaste. Mid weight with generous texture, it finishes balanced and brimming with good acidity and more than its fair share of charm. Order online for daily home or office delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)
New in Private Order
White Wine
Caleis Sauvignon / Viognier 2011
IGP Pays d’Oc $10.95 12.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of citrus, nettles and pineapple provide segue for an herbaceous, racy river of lemon zest and Granny Smith apple with a white grapefruit bite on the crisp, refreshing finish. It’s light on its feet with lip-smacking acidity throughout. The perfect foil to pasta with clams in cream sauce or a pot of mussels steamed in white wine and garlic. Good value here; give it a go. Order by the case for home or office delivery from agent Dave Coutts at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)
Bodega San Esteban ‘tierras de Murillo’ Viura 2011
DOCa Rioja $12.50 12.0% alcohol
Viura, aka Macabeo, is the most planted white grape in northern Spain. This delivers apple and pear aromas on the nose. There’s a lively river of lemon zest, white grapefruit and minerality on the palate persisting through the crisp, clean finish. It’s light-medium bodied with nice mouth feel and a penchant for pairing well with steamed mussels or pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Rosé Wine
Bodega San Esteban ‘tierras de Murillo’ Tempranillo Rosé 2011
DOCa Rioja $10.50 14.0% alcohol
Iridescent pink and brimming with aromas—cherry cordial, plum and floral notes—this splashes over the palate with spice-infused red berry fruit and cherry. It’s light on its feet with nice texture finishing with a salvo of red fruit—cranberry, red currant and ruby red grapefruit—and excellent moderating acidity showcasing a crisp, refreshing finish. Order by the case for home, restaurant or office (in Ontario) delivery from Nokhrin Wines or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic