Château Des Charmes Estate Bottled Riesling 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (277228)

This is the first vintage of this wine, which is produced from the winery's own vineyards. Although it's dry, there is clear perceived sweetness, with quite lush sweet fruit notes balanced off by pungent lime and other citrus notes. The acidity is good and there's a nice, long, clean finish. Well made and a very good partner to spicy Thai cuisine. (RP)


Konzelman Riesling Reserve 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (200527)

A quite attractive off-dry Riesling with good acidity and pleasant flavours of peach and tropical fruit. Suitably chilled, it's a great match for spicy Thai food. (RP)


Malivoire Gewürztraminer 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.00 (542522)

In many ways, it was Gewürztraminer that got Malivoire started, so this has quite a lineage. And this vintage justifies the confidence that Martin Malivoire and his first winemaker, Ann Sperling, put in the variety. It has a quite plush texture, attractive flavours of musk, lychee, and apricot pit, and a tangy finish. Try it with grilled shrimp with ginger and garlic. (RP)


Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (618827)

A well-made Pinot Blanc in a fairly delicate, restrained style. There are hints of apricot, peach and sweet apple, with a touch of minerality. It's well balanced and pairs nicely with grilled white fish. (RP)


Vineland Estates Pinot Gris 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (563460)

This is a Pinot Gris that has far more colour-an attractive salmon pink-than most. Verging toward a rosé in style, too, it offers layered notes of strawberry and rhubarb, along with more characteristic white peach and apricot pit flavours. Balanced toward food-friendly crispness, this is a wine to serve with salads that feature (for example) spicy beef or aged prosciutto. (RP)


Peninsula Ridge Viognier 2004
VQA Ontario $13.95 (662601)

The generous nose of fresh pit fruit (peaches, plums and nectarines) is enhanced by wisps of floral and honeyed aromas. This medium-bodied white has a good deal to offer with a citrus and pear flavour profile and medium-bodied silkiness that is pleasing and plush. It cleans up nicely with more citrus and hints of spice. Pour it with Chicken Kiev. (VH)


Vineland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (422808)

A well-made, flavoursome Cab with complex aromas and flavours (plum, raspberry, black berry) with spice and vanilla notes. The fruit is nicely tuned and is complemented by food-friendly acidity. With light tannins, this is very good drinking now. Pair it up with grilled red meat or even with rich tomato-based pasta. (RP)


Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (592261)

Not exactly new, because it's been around for more than a year, but this is a second bottling. I loved it then, I love it now. It's a very big Merlot, chock full of ripe, dark fruit accented with pepper and spice, and a long spicy black fruit finish. Speaking of Niagara's excellent 2002 vintage, winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas says, "Everyone had the fruit, but I wanted to give it more structure, to work with the maturation and tannins." He succeeded. This was delicious with elk, and it will pair well with any rich, red meat dish. And it's excellent value. (RP)


Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Grand Reserve Meritage 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (594002)

A Merlot-dominant blend that includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is plush, concentrated and elegant. There's an aroma of ripe raspberries even as you pour the wine into the glass, and sniffing it uncovers plum and coffee, too. In the mouth you get all this, plus spice and freshly- ground black pepper. The tannins are firm but approachable and the finish is long. Drink it now or hold for another year or two. (RP)


Château Des Charmes Estate Bottled Pinot Noir 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (256834)

Forget light-bodied, delicate, herbal-toned Pinot Noirs. This is a big weighty style, with full-on fruit (dark cherry, plum) and all the complexity that cigar-box, smoke, and earthiness can deliver. It might even be a bit over the top for some Pinot-lovers, but it's an impressive mouthful that will pair well with richly-flavoured red meat dishes. (RP)


Colio Estate CEV 'Aged Without Oak' Chardonnay 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $13.95 (503383)

A muted, but alluring nose of baked apple pie with some pleasant floral notes. This is a light-bodied quaffer with some gentle nuances and character in an under-stated manner. Flavours include lemon zest and green apple while it finishes up nice and clean. Try as an aperitif or matched to lighter fare such as veal in a cream sauce. (VH)


Colio Estate 'CEV' Gewürztraminer 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $14.95 (432104)

A well-made, complex Gewürztraminer that has restrained, elegant fruit and a quite luscious texture. Look for class varietal aromas and flavours, with notes of peach and apricot. A marvelous match with spicy Thai dishes. (RP)


Colio Estate 'CEV' Barrel Aged Merlot Reserve 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $24.95 (500447)

A massive red, almost brooding in depth, that shows what Ontario's warmest wine region can deliver, especially in a great year like 2002. The dark ripe fruit is only part of the picture, because this shows great equilibrium in tannins and acidity. Overall, a stylish and bold Merlot at a great price. Drink it now with a hunk of medium-rare red meat, or stash it away for another five to ten years. (RP)



D'Arenberg 'Vintage Fortified' Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (606244)

This rich, fat Port-styled red oozes sweet, jammy, stewed, spiced, ripe black fruit from every pore. It is a hedonistic fruit bomb with structure and balancing acidity that allow it to be enjoyed without palate fatigue. However, there is a ½ bottle available at $17.95 (943050). Luxuriate in the lengthy rich and concentrated spiced fruit finish just before you bite into a moist chunk of aged Stilton or a crumbling Parmigiano Regiano. (VH)



Belle Glos Pinot Noir 2002
Sonoma Coast $38.95 (925727)

An atypical, idiosyncratic Pinot that is simply wonderful. Smoke and oak drift from the glass of this plum, raisin and sweet cherry luscious red. The tannins are ripe and the mouth feel is plush. It offers a silky smooth finish with no corners or rough edges. Would suit a roasted capon rubbed in herbs and served with a rich port wine sauce. (VH)


Cuvaison Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Napa Valley $44.95 (944827)

"Napa Cab" is a category that covers a range of styles and many levels of quality, but every now and again you taste one that stands out from the crowd. This is one. It's a big, elegant Cabernet that delivers all you want in the varietal: pure fruit that shows ripeness but not jamminess, fine tannins, poised balance, and the potential to age for years. It's all here in this one. Drink it now with a rack of lamb or tuck it away, out of sight and beyond temptation, for another five to ten years. (RP)



Hess Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
California $24.95 (947887)

A beautifully textured Cab from one of the most meticulously-managed wineries in California. The nose is predominantly currants and cassis, while the hugely flavoured palate is a gorgeous cornucopia of sweet back cherries, brambly ripe fruit and perfectly balanced acidity. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2009 with all manner of grilled, rare red meat. Offers superb value. (VH)


Shafer Merlot 2003
Napa Valley $59.95 (356262)

A substantial, delicious Merlot that gives you sweet dark plums and cherries, with notes of mint, spice, pepper and smoke. The tannins are fine and will hold the fruit for another ten years at least. (RP)

Chile: Red Table Wine


Morandé '22 Barricas' Edición Limitada Cabernet Franc 2003
Maipo Valley $26.95 (677518)

Cedar shavings and crushed dried fruit waft from the glass of this classy medium to full-bodied red. This also has an edge to it, as in being unique, with perceptible tannins, a rustic quality from the tarred sour cherries and spiced plum flavours plus a seamless replay on the lengthy finish. A tad pricey, but pleasantly memorable. (VH)



D'Arenberg 'The Olive Grove' Chardonnay 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (702845)

The generous nose gives off spiced apples and vanilla. This medium-bodied white attacks the palate with full tropical fruit flavours (pineapple, melon, citrus) and a lovely cleansing citrussy finish. It is well balanced and well priced. Would be a winner poured with grilled pork tenderloin marinated in soy, garlic and ginger. (VH)


Heath 'Southern Roo' Chardonnay/Viognier 2004
South Australia $15.95 (658062)

A very attractive blend that adds up to more than the parts. There's a nice core of fresh fruit (pear, peach, lemon-lime) that pairs up with crisp acidity to make a wine that's great for sipping as an aperitif and for pairing with spicy seafood dishes. (RP)




D'Arenberg 'The Dead Arm' Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale, South Australia $54.95 (981183)

So named from a disease that causes one arm of the vine to die, leaving all the nutrients and sunshine the 115-year-old vine can produce funneled into the remaining grapes. This teeth-staining monster struts out of the glass with a huge chocolate, tar and black licorice blast. The flavours are unctuous with rich helpings of blackberry compote, tarred black cherries and gobs of full-bodied and creamy, smoky mocha. The finish is a glorious expression of the best that Aussie Shiraz can offer. This near-religious experience is a collectors' trophy wine at a more than reasonable price. Drink 2010 to 2025.


D'Arenberg 'The Custodian' Grenache 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $20.95 (713040)

Grenache is a much-underrated grape when it comes to varietal wines, but Australia is turning out some beauties. This one, from the super D'Arenberg winery, combines rich sweet fruit with impressive complexity. Look for spicy, pepper and mint notes in the dark fruit flavours, and feel the edge that keeps the richness just enough at bay, so that you come back for more. There's a little warmth from the 14.5% alcohol, but that's par for Grenache. Lovely, and a great match for well-seasoned (garlic, rosemary, lavender) lamb. (RP)


D'Arenberg 'The Galvo Garage' Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot/Cabernet Franc 2002
McLaren Vale/ Southern Fleureiu, South Australia $26.95 (907584)

This brooding monster lets you know immediately you are in for a treat. It is opaque and stains your glass with its rich concentration. The aromatics assault the olfactory with cassis, crushed cranberries, black cherries and earthy nuances. The flavours deliver more of the same, all wrapped around ripe, but very serious tannins. The finish is rich (cassis and currants) and extremely well balanced. Requires further time in the cellar. Try 2008 to 2020 with the thickest beef tenderloin steak, grilled rare, you can find. (VH)


Grant Burge 'Cameron Vale' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (937276)

More famous for Shiraz, the Barossa can also produce world class Cab in those hot dry summers and here's one. Mint, coffee and oaky aromatics greet the taster while the flavour profile is an opulent mélange of currants and ripe black cherries and plums. The ripe tannins are perceptible, but acceptable and provide good structure. The finish is monumental with full-bore sweet black fruit flavours to the fore. Pour now to 2010 with beef or elk carpaccio. (VH)


Langmeil 'Three Gardens' Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (644047)

Sometimes the letters in GSM (Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz, Mourvèdre) are re-ordered, as in this case where Shiraz leads the pack. This is a great buy. For under $22 you get rich, concentrated fruit and the style that goes with notes of roasting coffee beans and chocolate. Well-balanced and food-friendly, this drinks well with grilled or roasted game or well-seasoned beef. (RP)



Taltarni Heathcote Shiraz 2003
Heathcote, Victoria $34.95 (677575)

If you've been paying attention, winecurrent has been trumpeting Victoria for their uniquely-styled and stylish Shiraz; this may be the best yet. The black, inky liquid in the glass provides a huge nose that blasts away with mint, pepper, cherries and chocolate. The opulent and richly concentrated palate has raspberries and black currants alongside silky smooth tannins and that trademark Victoria spine of cleansing acidity that keeps it from being at all jammy. The gargantuan finish has elements of tar, black licorice and sweet Bing cherries. Drink now to 2012 with grilled, rare, rack of lamb. (VH)



Lincoln 'Heritage' Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (677542)

Another Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc for you to try. This one has quite complex fruit (passion fruit, tropical, and green apple) with herbal accents and very good acidity. Pair it with grilled garlic shrimp and a squeeze of lemon. (RP)



Sumaridge Wines Chardonnay Unwooded 2004
WO Walker Bay (Hemel-en-Aarde Valley) $16.95 (681189)

Their first LCBO offering promises to not be their last. Tropical fruit and spiced apple aromatics waft from the glass of this tangy and zesty white. Citrus, pear and Granny Smith apple flavours form the juicy palate of this medium-bodied beauty. It finishes dry with a lovely blend of sweet ripe stone fruit and cleansing citrussy notes. Not often you get this much texture and complexity without oak. Superb effort. (VH)



Louis Sipp Riesling 2002
AOC Alsace $17.95 (66819)

Alluring and intriguing aromatics of honeycomb and floral notes guide the taster into this full fruit, bone dry white. White peaches and nectarine flavours dominate the flavour profile while the texture is plush and round in this medium-bodied beauty. The finish is rich and portends a great future. One of those wines that you buy three; trying one in 3 years, the next in 6 and the last in ten. You will then be hooked on, and convinced of, the beauty of old Rieslings. (VH)


George Duboeuf Chasan 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc $10.95 (656843)

A straightforward white that's well worth its price-and in addition you get to try an unusual grape variety. It delivers very clean fruit (citrus, apple, pear) with both crispness and a soft texture. Great for sipping or for pairing with delicately-flavoured white fish. (RP)



Château Montlisse 2000
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux $37.95 (659920)

Smoky notes and a hint of raspberry aromas introduce you to a sleek Bordeaux from a top vintage at a wonderful price. Rich ripe fruit flavours (cherry, raspberry) provide a sensationally sweet core into which the ripe tannins and good acidity can infuse themselves to provide perfect balance. This is round, fleshy and approachable now to 2010. Try with Beef Wellington. (VH)


Domaine Les Grandes Vignes 'Laubinaie' 2003
AOC Anjou, Loire $13.95 (700161)

There are cherries and green tea notes on the nose. On the palate there are interesting (cranberries, sour cherries, stewed rhubarb) flavours entwined with rustic (savoury, garrigue and soy sauce) notes that blend together surprisingly well. An idiosyncratic red that is worth a try paired to something spicy, like Chicken Paprikash. (VH)


Cave de Rasteau 'Prestige' 2001
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $19.95 (985929)

Aromatics of bacon, dried currants and gamey notes provide a segue to this medium-bodied red. There are notes of sweet cherries and red licorice on the palate while the finish is quite lengthy and, again, fruit forward. An honest and well made wine that would pour well with cassoulet or tourtiere. (VH)


Domaine la Martine Roaix 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Roaix $16.95 (962214)

Sweet raspberry compote and red licorice aromatics open the door to this delicious red. The painter's palette of flavours include spiced cherries, currants, licorice and tarry notes. It is richly extracted and provides a plush, medium-bodied mouth feel and a long sweet kirsch-like finish. A treat on its own, it would pair well with fully-dressed pizza or lasagna. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favour. (VH)



Coop Thüngersheim Silvaner / Kabinett 2003
QmP Thüngersheimer Ravensburg, Franken $14.95 (657205)

The most obvious feature of this wine is the oddly-shaped bottle, called a Bocksbeutel, but don't let that stop or hinder your decision to purchase. A unique and lifted nose of red licorice, vanilla custard and lime opens the door for this dry, flavour-packed (citrus, peaches and crème brûlée) medium-bodied Franconian. The zesty finish will bring you back for more. Serve as an aperitif or with grilled tuna and freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)



Weingut Carl Loewen Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Leiwener Klostergarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $16.95 (657197)

There are floral notes with just a touch of those developing petrol notes on the nose. This one of those yin and yang Rieslings with a sweet core of ripe peach and yellow plum flavours balanced off perfectly with a wonderfully tangy spine of acidity. It is medium-bodied, even plush on the palate. The long tangy finish portends a drinking life from now until 2012. Perfect with baked ham encrusted with mustard and imbedded with cloves. (VH)



Tsantalis Chromitsa Mount Athos Vineyard 2003
Vin de Pays $16.95 (653733)

Made from two indigenous Greek varieties and Chardonnay, this is big-textured, creamy, and mouth-filling. In style, it has some similarities to Semillon, and it's quite complex, with fruit in the apple-pear zones and some toasty accents. Try it with grilled seafood that's been marinated in lemon and garlic. (RP)



Nyakas Pince 'Budai Cuvée' Chardonnay/Irsai Olivér 2003
Buda $12.95 (936476)

Forget about pronouncing, just purchase and drink it. An intriguing perfumed nose of musk, rosewater and spice provide the entrée to this light to medium-bodied bargain from the Buda region. Citrus and spiced apple on the palate, it provides lovely balance and structure including a finish that cleans up nicely. Best on its own as an extremely well-priced sipper. (VH)



Corte Gardoni Bianco di Custoza 2004
DOC Veneto $12.95 (677377)

Floral notes mixed with sweet red Delicious apple and Bosc pear aromatics form the inviting and lifted nose. The flavours are quite different with citrus and green apples coming to the fore. It is light to medium-bodied, providing a tangy finish that would pair well with grilled, firm (tuna or sword) fish. (VH)



Michele Chiarlo 'Le Orme' 2003
DOC Barbera d'Asti Superiore, Piedmont $16.95 (917518)

Lifted tar and black licorice aromatics give way to a mouthful of sweet rich black currants and cherries on the palate. Ripe tannins plus beautifully handled oak and acidity couple well with the warm clean finish to suggest this would pair well with pasta in tomato-based sauces. Drink now to 2009. (VH)


Leone De Castris 'Villa Santera' Primitivo Di Manduria 2002
DOC Salice Salentino $16.95 (730952)

The nose has spiced red apple, freshly-picked strawberry and plum notes. The flavour is fleshy with flavours of freshly squeezed plums and cranberries. It is clean and dry with good balance and structure. A medium-bodied quaffer at a fair price. (VH)


Antinori 'Peppoli' 2002
DOCG Chianti Classico, Toscana $19.95 (606541)

The rich, stewed fruit aroma is the entry for a round and supple 'new world-styled' Tuscan. There's lots of sweet brambly fruit flavours that make good friends with the ripe tannins and well handled oak. This has balance, pedigree and would not be out of place served on Sunday with the way you do the roast at your house. Drink now to 2010. (VH)


Michele Castellani 'Seral" Corvina 2000
IGT Rosso Veronese $14.95 (658310)

A gorgeous mélange of aromatics (black berries, Bing cherries, German prune plums) waft from the glass of this warm (13.5% alc.) plush red, The flavours (black cherries and licorice) form a sweet core whilst the ripe tannin and acidity play minor roles, but prevent it from becoming jammy or one-dimensional. The finish is one long stream of gushing ripe fruit. Should be purchased in multiples and poured with any veal dish imaginable. On a price to quality ratio, you are a big winner. (VH)


Luigi Righetti Capitel De' Roari 2000
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $30.95 (651562)

Conveniently bottled in 375ml, as well, at $15.95 (652099); just the right amount for a wild game dinner for two. A quintessential amarone nose of dried currants, leather and spiced black cherries emanate from this fruit-forward (cherries, raisins) medium-bodied crowd pleaser. The finish is sublime with all manner of ripe fruit and that glorious bitter (not bad, honest) fruit finish of a well-made wine of this style. 'Amarone' originates from the Italian for bitter. You will not find many at this price and quality. (VH)



Dionysos-Merini Carlevana Chardonnay Rezerva 2001
Chisinau County $10.95 (590141)

This is showing its age gracefully in the glass (golden) and well-developed flavour profile of citrus, green apple and spice. It is light-bodied, zesty and clean. Would be a pleasing 'welcome to my house' wine and could match up quite nicely to lighter seafood appetizers. Great price. (VH)



Acorex 'Terra Verde' Merlot 2003
Cahul Region $9.95 (590166)

Yes, I know, it's from Moldova. And, yes, I too have preconceived notions so I re-tasted it, with similar results. The muted nose of dried cranberries hardly sets one up for the pedal to the metal full-bore clean fruit flavours to follow. Cherries, raspberries and black currants explode from this richly concentrated, almost opulent, red. No rough edges and enough tannin and zestiness to prevent it tasting jammy. A round warm fruity finish begs for Osso Bucco or veal shanks. The best 'dollar for drop' bargain of the release. (VH)



Casa Santos Lima 'Palha-Canas' Vinho Tinto 2003
Vinho Regional Estremadura $13.95 (912667)

A savoury and gamey nose opens the curtains to a wine that needs some time, or rare beef, to tame it down. It's a bit austere right now, but there is a core of ripe black fruit under those grainy tannins. However, given time this will develop into a rich and juicy red that should pair well with the aforementioned beef. Thinking about starting a modest cellar? Store in a dark, cool (approx. 14ºC) place for three years, then pop the cork. (VH)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Thanks and cheers, Vic and Rod