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Chartron-Trébuchet 'Les Benoîtes' 2002
AOC Chassagne-Montrachet $59.95 (945642)

A gorgeously perfumed nose of melon and green apples wafts from the glass to greet the fortunate taster. Balanced to perfection with deftly-handled oak, a velvety mouth-feel, fruit forward flavours and enough acidity to pair it with food and give it life in the cellar. White Burgundy at its best. Great on its own - to 2012 - or pair with Chicken Kiev. (VH)



Domaine Vincent Girardin Meursault "Les Narvaux" 2002
AOC Meursault $52.95 (938365)

This is quite delicious and with intriguing complexity-the sort that has you finding a new layer of flavour with each taste. Look for myriad sweet fruit (peach, pear, apple) with kitchen spices, roasted nuts and tangy notes. The texture is rich and creamy, and the balance is just right. There was a scarcely-perceptible bitter note at the end, and it finishes clean. Pair it with baked herb-encrusted white fish. (RP)




Alain Hudelot-Noëllet 2002
AOC Chambolle-Musigny $57.95 (979252)

Smoky, black currant and violet aromatics lead to a fruit-forward offering with elegance and structure. All the elements (cherry fruit, subtle oak and cleansing acidity) are in sync. The dry finish is lengthy and luxurious with good fruit flavour throughout. An excellent offering that would pair well with smoked duck breast. (VH)


Domaine Parent Pommard "Les Chaponnières" 2002
AOC 1er Cru Pommard "Les Chaponnières" $69.95 (652420)

A lovely medium-bodied Pommard, with elegant and complex fruit (red, black, sweet, sour cherry), with spice and pepper notes. It's still fairly tightly wound with firm tannins and a quite astringent texture, and it would be a pity not to let it relax for another three or four years at least. Then pair it with grilled lamb. (RP)




Domaine A.-F. Gros Bourgogne 2002
AOC Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits $29.95 (713693)

Cherries and blueberries on the nose, this ready-to-drink red is fruit forward and friendly. The palate has sour cherries and cranberries wrapped up in creamy texture that follows through to the finish. This crowd pleaser (more new world than old) is extremely well priced and could be enjoyed on its own or with any manner of veal or pork. (VH)


Domaine Antonin Guyon 'Clos du Village' 2002
AOC Chambolle-Musigny $57.95 (700906)

A muted nose of violets and strawberries leads to this light to medium-bodied Burgundy that offers sour cherries and good acidity on the palate and finish. It's a bit austere and tightly wound at this stage and needs some time to sort itself out. Should reward your patient cellaring when you pop the cork in 2008. (VH)



Frédéric Magnien Vosne-Romanée "Au-dessus de la Rivière" 2002
AOC Vosne-Romanée $59.95 (586842)

This has huge complexity and stands out as one of my favourites of this bunch of Burgundies. It's full of flavour, with solid fleshy fruit at the core, along with some wild, gamey notes accented with spice and smoke. It's well-built and nicely balanced, and has the tannins to hold it for another five years. Pair it up with well-seasoned lamb. (RP)



Domaine Daniel Rion 2002
AOC Vosne-Romanée $59.95 (938456)

This has ripe black plums with some floral notes on the nose. The flavour profile includes spicy cherries and blueberries with a good core of underlying oak and tannin. The finish is medium length and beautifully balanced. Try 2008 - 2010 with beef carpaccio, fried capers and a drizzled, reduced Dijon mustard sauce. (VH)


Domaine Pavelot 'La Dominode' 2002
AOC 1er Cru Savigny-lès-Beaune $47.95 (680850)

Not much in the way of aromatics, muted floral and red berry notes, this wine is quite muscular in the mouth. There is a ripe parcel of fruit under those grippy tannins, but right now it's still very chewy and drying. Suggest putting down until 2010 and even then you will need flavoursome cuisine to match. Try with Cassoulet. Very well priced, for a Premier Cru Burgundy. (VH)


Domaine Roert Arnoux 2002
AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges $59.95 (653022)

The nose, red currants and violets, is extremely inviting and the finish, sour cherries and raspberries, is lengthy and spectacularly involved. In between, you have a light to medium-bodied offering with nice ripe fruit and no rough edges. A style that might be better enjoyed on its own, 2007 - 2009, after being decanted for an hour or two. (VH)


Domaine Tollot-Beaut Savigny-Lavières 2002
AOC Savigny-lès-Beaune $44.95 (587055)

A very attractive wine that will repay cellaring for at least three years, preferably longer. It has a lovely core of pure fruit, a complex mix of sweet and sour cherries with hints of black plum and berry, with savoury notes and firm tannins. Everything is in place for a beautiful result in a few years. If you're thinking ahead to an anniversary, get a couple of these. (RP)


Fernand & Laurent Pillot 'Clos de Vergers' 2002
AOC 1er Cru Pommard $69.95 (586867)

You would expect a full-bodied wine from Pommard, even more from a Premier Cru and you get it here, in spades. The nose is lifted (smoke, tar and cherries) and it carries its spiced cherry flavour well, along with warm, ripe dark fruit with some gamey nuances on the finish. Drink now to 2010 with Boeuf Bourguignon. (VH)


Louis Latour 'Vignes Franches' 2002
AOC 1er Cru Beaune $56.95 (999672)

The lifted nose of floral notes, tar and cassis is gargantuan and gorgeous. The flavours of crème de cassis and raspberry compote are interwoven with firm, ripe tannins and a wonderful balancing acidity that portend long life, but also approachable now. It has verve and elegance. Drink now to 2012. This Premium Cru is truly a bon Beaune. (VH)



Quinta de Ventozelo LBV Port 1998
DOC Duoro, Portugal $23.95 (660159)

Now on the cutting edge, after massive investment of millions of Euros, this historically-important house is producing world class product. Intense aromas of chocolate, licorice and dried fruit blast from the glass. The hugely-flavoured nectar is reminiscent of fruit cake spice, Bing cherries and black licorice. This was (full bunch) foot trodden and left unfiltered. Decant and drink with huge chunks of Belgian dark chocolate. Will warm up a cold snowy evening. (VH)



Cloudy Bay 'Pelorus' 2000
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $37.95 (338459)

This has a stunning appearance in the glass, gold and bronze, whilst the nose is quite pleasing with its brioche and toasty aromas. The attack is a work of art with its leesy, citrus flavours and creamy full-bodied texture. It cleans up nice and crisp, crying out for oysters drizzled with Pernod. A "pelorus" is a mariner's navigational instrument and this should ply its way to your table. (VH)

U.S.A.: white wine


La Crema Chardonnay 2003
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) or 375ml $14.95 (728352)

La Crema does it again. This Chardonnay offers the best of New World fruit in an Old World style-intense fruit flavours that are restrained and complex. The texture is creamy and rich but without the viscosity of so many New World Chardonnays. This will go very nicely with maple-glazed grilled salmon. (RP)


Niebaum-Coppola 'Diamond' Chardonnay 2003
California $27.95 (708305)

Tropical fruit, white peaches and spiced apples form the nose of this medium-bodied Chard. The texture is smooth as silk, but never flabby, as a pleasant spine of acidity circumvents that. The flavour profile is one of involved pit fruit and apple pie while the finish offers more of the same. Drink now to 2009 with grilled or roast chicken. (VH)



Niebaum-Coppola 'Diamond' Claret 2003
California $29.95 (521021)

The Godfather of Napa makes red wine (this from the 5 best known Bordeaux red grapes - no Carmenère) with the best of them. The lifted nose is comprised of cassis, mint and oak and the palate is a fruit bomb explosion of dense dark berry fruit. The luxuriously long finish echoes the gorgeous taste treat on the palate. This will strut its stuff 2008 - 2015. Pair with pepper-encrusted grilled rare strip loins. (VH)



Niebaum-Coppola 'Diamond' Merlot 2003
California $29.95 (595686)

Oak and spiced cherry aromatics waft from the glass of this mellow and silky smooth charmer. Rich dark fruit (cherries, blueberries and raspberries) wrap themselves around ripe tannins and a refreshingly crisp finish. A touch (9%) Syrah provides some density and spice. Unfortunately, the purchasing prowess of the LCBO is not reflected in any of the Niebaum-Coppola wines offered here. (VH)

Argentina: red wine


Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Mendoza $15.95 (677567)

Aromatics of spicy oak and currants blast from this well put together red. Black fruit flavours (think currants and cherries) abound on the palate while the structure is involved (ripe perceptible tannins, deftly handled oak and a lovely crisp quality) and boisterous. The finish is quite powerful and says there are 5 great years of life remaining while you pair it with all manner of bar b qued beef. Rod and I both loved this. (VH)




Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection' Carmenère 2003
Rapel Valley $14.95 (640888)

The recent success of Carmenère must be making the bordelais re-think not re-planting much of it after the initial phylloxera attack. However, we have some coming from Chile and this one is a beauty. Toasted nuts and smoky cherries form the lifted nose whilst the palate is attacked with full bore fruit flavours of spiced black currants and tar. The finish offers coffee and jammy berries and the overall result is quite stunning. (VH)


Terramater Shiraz/Cabernet 2002
Maipo Valley $11.95 (651513)

The opaque brooding monster in the glass does not disappoint on the palate. Ripe, black cherries and blackberries make up the nose while the taste profile is made up of indeterminate ripe, juicy, succulent sweet fruit from the very arms of mother earth. This fruit driven blend deserves a fine cut of tenderloin, grilled rare. The price to quality ratio is tipped heavily in your favor - stock up. (VH)



Stonehaven Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (562777)

Tropical fruit and spiced honeydew melon rip from the glass of this wonderfully-made and well-priced white. A mélange of pear, peach and apples form the flavours while the warm (13.5% alc.) finish is quite satisfying. Pair with chicken and pasta in a cream sauce. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)


Tyrrell's Chardonnay Reserve 2003
Hunter Valley $19.95 (657346)

A fine Chardonnay from a producer that consistently earns its reputation. There's good complexity on the nose, with a variety of tropical fruit, peach and ground cherry, and it flows through seamlessly to the flavours. The texture is full and slightly creamy, and it finishes clean and crisp. All in all, a class act. (RP)


Australia: red wine


'Cockfighter's Ghost' Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (595439)

Currants, tobacco, black pepper and cherries form the involved and lifted nose. The flavours are a bottomless pool of rich dark currants, coffee and licorice. The lengthy finish shows off ripe tannins and crispness, keeping it from being at all 'jammy' or monochromatic. Drink now to 2010, if you can wait. Hits it big on the Wow meter. (VH)


Craneford Grenache 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $28.95 (915660)

Floral and spiced cherries on the nose, this red has a huge mouth feel and core of sweetness that must, at least partially, come from concentrated fruit and the 15% alcohol. The finish is also quite fruity. Would pair well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce over the next couple of years. (VH)


Hugh Hamilton "The Rascal" Shiraz 2003
McLaren Vale $24.95 (595405)

The "rascal" here is a black sheep, and the label declares, "Every family has one." Apparently Hugh is the Hamilton family's, but given the sort of wines he produces, I'm sure they've forgiven him his eccentricities and extravagances. This is a big bruiser of a Shiraz, with brooding depth and good complexity-much more stuff than in your run-of-the-mill Shiraz, and well worth the extra dollars. You've got mutton to lose, so buy a couple of bottles. Your friends will flock to ewe, so don't hogget. Serve it with rich red meat dishes. (RP)


Ring-Bolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Margaret River $19.95 (606624)

A luscious Shiraz with rich dark fruit and berry flavours, with licorice and menthol-ripe and flavourful without being jammy. The texture is full and generous without becoming viscous. In short, it's a powerful Shiraz that pairs well with food. Try it with well-seasoned red meat. (RP)


Stonehaven Shiraz 2004
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (681098)

One of those easy-drinking reds easily passed over because of the $12 price - don't. It has no aspiration to greatness, but has all the necessary gear to earn a spot on your table. The nose has elements of black pepper, raspberries and eucalyptus while the rich palate has black ripe fruit and enough tannin and balancing acidity to make it a keeper. The rich satisfying fruity finish would pair with any of the red meat dishes you have around your house Monday to Friday. Drink now to 2009. Superbly priced. (VH)



Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2003
Marlborough $33.95 (359513)

A very attractive Chardonnay from a well-known producer. Look for big texture here, with complex fruit in the tropical, peach and sweet pear zones, all well balanced with food-friendly acidity. It's dry, even astringent, and this paired with the rich fruit makes for a compelling wine. Drink it with pan-seared scallops. (RP)



Bouchard Finlayson Sauvignon Blanc 2004
WO Walker Bay $15.95 (701540)

This is a big-bodied Sauvignon Blanc with pungent passion fruit and green fruit dominating the aromas and flavours. It's a very attractive mouthful and pairs well with a variety of seafood dishes. (RP)



Middelvlei Shiraz 2000
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 (652669)

This is a big Shiraz with loads of full-powered fruit (plums, berries, cherries) with strong pepper notes and hints of smoke. It's well made, well-structured, and makes a great partner for grilled meat dishes. (RP)


Graham Beck Wines 'Railroad Red' Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
WO Western Cape $12.95 (677468)

Strong Syrah characteristics exhibit with black pepper and spice on the muted nose with some Cab flavours showing through as sweet cassis (almost 14% alcohol) and mint. The oak is beautifully handled and unobtrusive. This easy drinking red has soft silky tannins and no sharp corners. The finish is surprisingly long and involved and indicative of wine twice this price. Get on track to drink this medium-bodied blend now to 2008. (VH)



Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2004
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (999821)

A big-boned rosé with rich flavours of red berries (strawberries, raspberries), red plums and darker fruit. It has a lovely round texture and good balance, and pairs well with grilled salmon. (RP)




Château la Gasparde 2000
AOC Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux $17.95 (708594)

A quiet nose of floral, vanilla and spiced plums form the segue to this value-priced Bordeaux. Satiny smooth on the palate, it exhibits cherries and plums with an almost imperceptible underlying tannin structure. The finish is well balanced and dry. Drink now with generous portions of Tomme de Savoie fromage. (VH)



Château Les Ollieux 2000
AOC Corbières $17.95 (936880)

A blend that's about one third each Syrah, Carignan and Grenache, with a dash of Mourvèdre, this offers beautiful rich fruit (plum, cherry) with savoury notes of fresh herbs (garrigue). It has a plush texture and nice ripe tannins that will hold it nicely for another three or four years. Drink this with well-seasoned lamb chops. (RP)


Splendor Solis St. Chinian 2001
AOC St. Chinian $14.95 (652073)

A richly-flavoured southern red hat gives you full-on fruit (dark berries, plum, cherry) with gamey and spicy notes. The tannins are there but not too much so, and this goes as well with red meat on the summer grill as hearty meat stew in winter. Buy enough to try it both ways. (RP)



Paul Jaboulet 'Domaine de Thalabert' Crozes-Hermitage 2001
AOC Rhône $33.95 (720466)

Aromatics of black pepper, raspberry and bell pepper lead the taster to a medium-bodied offering of light sour cherry fruit and cranberries. The finish perks up with some good dark fruit and underlying structure to compliment the tannin. Good now to 2008. (VH)


Paul Jaboulet Hermitage 'La Chapelle' 2001
AOC Rhône $159.95 (973735)

This is a mammoth effort, from its lifted nose of incense, leather and cherries, to the beguiling warm finish of gamey smoked meat and full expression of ripe black fruit. In between, this monster needs years to tame. The tannins are grainy and gripping and the fruit (spiced cherries and plums) compete, rather than compliment, at this stage of its evolution. Stash away until 2012 then drink until 2020 and beyond. This is extremely well-priced. Collectors and connoisseurs will snap it up. (VH)



Studert-Prüm Riesling Kabinett 2003
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $18.95 (970129)

An attractive off-dry Riesling with aromas of flowers, peach, melon and tropical fruit. The flavours echo the aromas, and the texture is rich and fruity, with slightly low acidity. Pair it with spicy Thai dishes. (RP)




Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico 2002
DOCG Toscana $14.95 (651604)

A Chianti Classico (arguably the best of the sub regions) that is classy and classic from its perfumed nose to the lengthy fruit-driven finish. Gorgeous flavours of dried currants and raisins abound on the palate while the acidity and tannins have been held firmly in check. Pair with pizza or any tomato-based sauce with pasta. Enjoy now to 2015. (VH)


Frescobaldi 'Castiglioni' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
IGT Toscana $19.95 (974394)

Oodles of Xmas cake spice and dried cranberries on the nose and gobs of cassis and smoky bacon on the palate of this chewy monster. The chalky tannins are still in your face and will benefit from a rest in your cellar. Drink 2009 - 2012 with deviled lamb kidneys laced with black pepper. (VH)


Igino Accordini Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 'Le Bessole' 2000
DOC Veneto $46.95 (651570)

Fashioned from dried and withered Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes that have lost almost half their original weight, this dark, fleshy beauty is concentrated, rich and full-bodied. The nose is all sweet cherries while the flavour profile includes tar, currants, mineral and espresso. The serious finish (bitter chocolate, cherries and tar) goes on and on. Don't stand between Amarone-lovers and this on release day. (VH)



Quinta de Ventozelo Touriga Nacional Tinto 2001
DOC Duoro $19.95 (657452)

What a nose - cola, cherries and leather for certain, with hints of coffee and leather. This dry red beauty, made by the new owners, illustrates why all their vineyards are rated Class "A" for Port and why this grape is considered the absolute best. Sour cherry and licorice flavours extend to the lengthy finish on this full-bodied gem. If you haven't cottoned on to the quality explosion of Portuguese wine, pick this. (VH)



Bodegas Martinez Bujanda 'Conde de Valdemar' Reserva1998
DOC Rioja $20.95 (947309)

A world class vintner of fine wine offers this classy red blend (85% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo) that has aged 2 years in American (hence the coconut nuances) and French oak plus a further 5 in the bottle. The nose has toasty vanilla and plum aromatics while the flavours have sweet and sour cherries, plus that hint of sweet coconut. This is a wine that luxuriates in its silkiness. The long fruity finish says it's good now to 2010. (VH)


Finca Valpiedra Reserva Rioja 1999
DOC Rioja $29.95 (959049)

Already six years old, and showing the attractive dried fruit aromas and flavours that go with it. But there's still plenty of freshness here, too, and it's well balanced with quite firm tannins. A great companion for pork tenderloin stuffed with prunes. (RP)




Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, New Zealand $18.00 (927525)

A racier-than-usual Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, but not because it has higher acidity. The fruit lie more in the citrus (white grapefruit, lemon, lime) zones than in the pungent passion fruit and mellow green fruit range, and this accentuates the crispness. This is an attractive style that pairs well with fresh oysters. (RP)



Secret Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, New Zealand $22.95

A classic, elegant, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It has all the pungent fruit-passion fruit, lime, gooseberry, a hint of asparagus-and bracing, slightly salty acidity that you look for in the best from this region. The almost full-bodied, compact texture calls up creamy-textured foods like goat cheese and freshly-shucked oysters. (RP)





Cuesta del Parral Syrah 2004
San Juan $8.95 (620484)

A straightforward, uncomplicated Syrah that's ideal for mid-week barbecues as summer draws to an end. Then bring it inside for mid-week meals. Look for solid red and dark fruit, spicy notes, and light tannins. (RP)



Thorn-Clarke "Terra Barossa" Eden Valley Pinot Grigio 2003
Eden Valley $14.95 (296996)

Eden Valley is a sub-appellation of the Barossa Valley. It has higher altitude and a cooler growing-season. This is a delicious Pinot Grigio with intense, ripe fruit (apricot, peach, sweet pear) and perfectly-balanced acidity. This is delicious sipped as a pre-dinner aperitif and partners well with spicy chicken and seafood dishes. (RP)


The Little Penguin Shiraz
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (621870)

Excellent value for people who love fruity, spicy Australian Shiraz. This has all the dark plum and cherry you want, along with notes of spice and mint and hints of smoke. It's a natural for early fall barbecues, when you want the wine, as well as the food, to ward off the cooling air. (RP)



Château des Charmes Cuvée d'Andrée Rosé 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (333260)

Bring this out on a warm fall day because it's perfect for the weather, or on a cooler day to remind you of the summer just past. This is a lovely rosé with good complexity, as you'd expect of a blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Dry with ripe berry flavours, this goes well with pasta in a rosé cream sauce or with spicy beef salads. (RP)


Colio Estate Pinot Grigio 2004
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $14.95 (503391)

This earned a gold medal at the recent All Canada wine championships. Honey, floral and tropical fruit aromatics portend a rich full-bodied white and it delivers. There is gorgeous balance and structure as the lemon zesty notes play off the tropical fruit forward flavours. The lengthy finish begs for pasta in a creamy sauce or a mesculan salad drizzled with olive oil and slathered with chèvre. (VH)



Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Valle Central $9.95 (275909)

A brisk, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc at a very good price. Look for lemon, lime and green apple flavours. It pairs very well with a green salad topped with gobs of goat cheese. (RP)



Château Saint-Thibeaud Bordeaux Clairet 2004
AOC Bordeaux Clairet $9.95 (589366)

A really lovely rosé from Bordeaux, with fresh berry flavours, and a crisp, dry texture. It's very well priced and makes an excellent partner for salads, grilled salmon, and gourmet sandwiches. (RP)




Ravenswood 'Vintner's Blend' Zinfandel 2003
California $19.95 (359257)

As the name suggests, this full-bodied red is a blend (78% Zin, 9% Carignan, 5% Petite Syrah, 3% mixed grapes) and as Ravenswood's motto declares, "No wimpy wines". Two weeks of skin contact and 12 months in French oak (1/4 new) bolsters their claim as this is the antithesis of wimpy. Full fledged fruit (raspberry compote), perceptible (but acceptable) tannin and a gorgeous core of crispness make this a classy crowd pleaser. Impress your guests by pairing with ground sirloin burgers, hot off the grill. (VH)


Vendange Chardonnay 2004
California $ 6.95 (621565) 500 ml

A muted and perfumed nose of sweet vanilla and lime is distinctive and quite pleasant. There are pleasant floral and fruit cocktail flavours in this light-bodied easy drinking quaffer. Oh, yes, did I mention it was attractively packaged in a tetra pack, similar to the carton of milk you opened this morning? It is re-cyclable (blue box - Ontario), relief for those of you corkscrew-challenged (twist off, tamper evident, closure) and very handy for poolside, travel and the cottage. Very trendy, indeed. (VH)


Vendange Shiraz 2003
California $ 6.95 (621540) 500 ml

The nose has sour cherry and strawberry notes with a little spice for interest. There are lovely currant and spiced cherry flavours on the palate and the finish is dry, fruity and clean. Would do well paired with lighter fare e.g. cold cuts, veal and chicken. Packaged in tetra pack for convenience. (VH)


Note that these wines may be available only from wineries direct. You can order them using the links at www.winecurrent.com.


Colio Estate Chardonnay 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $13.95 (503383)

Round, full-bodied, creamy-textured, with fruit in the tropical and peach zones? if it's a Chardonnay, it's got to be oaked, right? Not this one. Colio winemaker Carlo Negri aged this without oak. "If the fruit is good," he says, "there's no need to oak." Some of this is available in odd Vintages stores, but you can order directly from the winery, using the link at www.winecurrent.com. When you've snagged your bottles, try the first with grilled white fish. (RP)


Colio Estate Cabernet Franc Reserve 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 (432096)

A real bargain at the price, this gives you real Cabernet Franc typicity, with bright red and dark fruit, rich spicy notes, with hints of pepper and cedar. It's full bodied with firm tannins and is a real mouthful. Drink it now with rare red meats or cellar it another four or five years. A few bottles are still available in some Vintages stores, but you can order on-line via the link at www.winecurrent.com (RP)


Colio Estate Select Late Harvest Cabernet Franc 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95/375ml (623447)

If you're looking for something different and stunning to end a dinner, try this. It's a red dessert wine in a Port-like style, but it's not intended to be a Port taste-alike. What you get is intense red fruit, dried fruit and prune flavours, with rich spicy accents. It's relatively low in alcohol (11%) so that you don't get the heat that's in too many faux Ports, it's not too viscous, and it's quite delicious. Try it with blue cheese. (RP)


Erie Shore Vineyard Vidal Icewine 1999
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $16.95/200ml

Erie Shore is one of a dozen wineries (more coming soon) in Ontario's Lake Erie North Shore wine region. Owners Harvey and Alma Hollingshead use only their own grapes to make a range of well-priced wines, and this ice wine shows what they can do. It has the typical icewine flavours (tropical, mango, peach, apricot) with honey notes, and it has a spine of clean acidity that cuts through the natural sweetness very effectively. The 200ml bottle makes it perfect for four (or two) people. (RP)


Pelee Island Chardonnay Barrique 2003
VQA Pelee Island $13.95

A well-made Chardonnay that should please those who like a touch of oak as well as those who recoil from oaked Chardonnay. This has been aged in 50% older French and 50% new Hungarian barrels, and the result is a very good balance among all the components. Winemaker Walter Schmoranz says "I don't want to make it just oak," and he's succeeded in letting the fruit shine through, while providing a hint of vanilla and also the roundness that wood give to the texture. This is great with grilled salmon. Order it from the winery using the link at www.winecurrent.com. (RP)


Pelee Island Wines Cabernet Merlot 2002
VQA Ontario $14.95

Ontario's warmest wine region produced some really impressive reds in 2002. This blend is 50% Cabernets and 50% Merlot, and weighs in with dark fruit aromas and flavours, with marked notes of chocolate, spice and dark coffee beans. The tannins are firm and you can drink this now or hold it another three or four years. (RP)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers, Rod and Vic