Once again, the LCBO set the tasting for the middle of this week, making it impossible for us to deliver this before now. The wines are reviewed in the order they appear in the catalog under their headings.

We are including the scoring system explanation and icons at the end of this newsletter.



Lustau 'Solera Reserva' Jarana Fino
Jerez De La Frontera, Spain $10.95 (375 ml) (721290)

Nutty, rancio (aka oxidized) aromatics float from the glass of this outstanding sherry from one of, if not the, best sherry producers in the world. Roasted almond flavours intermingle with the tingling dry profile that sherry lovers and novices alike find irresistible with sardines grilled on the barbie then drizzled with fresh lemon. It finishes very dry, making it the perfect foil to all oily fish. (VH)


Domaine Jean-Pierre Sève "Terroir" Pouilly-Fuissé 2002
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé, France $29.95 (681056)

An elegant, layered beauty that shows all the style of classic Pouilly-Fuissé. The fruit is a mélange of peach and pear, with subtle spiciness and texture that's round and opulent, but this side of creamy. Just gorgeous, and best set off against a dish of simple chicken or white fish that acts as a backdrop to the wine rather than competes with it. (RP)


Jacques & Francois Lurton 'Terres Fumées' Colombard 2003
Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan, France $10.95 (680603)

The ubiquitous Lurtons have fashioned another winner (this time from the lightly regarded Colombard grape) with its lifted herbaceous nose, underpinned by mineral and floral notes. The palate is attacked with gorgeous lemony gooseberry and pineapple flavours from this mid-weight crisp white. The finish is lengthy and cries out for grilled garlicky scampi. The price to quality ratio is tipped in your favour. (VH)


Maculan Pinot Grigio 2004
DOC Breganze, Italy $14.95 (734921)

Navigating Italian Pinot Grigio is like finding your way through the thickets of Australian Shiraz. But here's a pretty bright beacon from northern Italy, a well-made number that has everything you want in a Pinot Grigio-sweet fruit, good acidity-with some mineral notes and a style that speaks finesse. Try it with pasta and shrimp in a light cream sauce. (RP)


Marqués de Riscal Sauvignon 2004
DO Rueda, Spain $13.95 (976514)

A very successful Sauvignon Blanc from an unexpected appellation, this is in a style that's reminiscent of New Zealand in flavour, but lighter in body and texture. It's very clean, crisp and refreshing, and in many ways a preferable style for hot weather. Put it on the patio table with grilled fish, seafood or with a salad with grilled panko-coated goat cheese. (RP)



Les Collines de Bourdic Viognier 2004
Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $14.95 (650259)

An elegant, aromatic Viognier with quite stylish fruit-apricot and peach pit to the fore-and great balance. It's a step down in weight and intensity from the 2003 vintage, but this is likely to be food-friendlier. Take a bottle to your favourite BYO Thai restaurant. For restaurants, look at www.bringmywine.ca (RP)


Castello di Neive Dolcetto d'Alba 'Basarin' 2003
DOC Piedmont, Italy $17.95 (651893)

An intriguing nose of dried currants, tarry mint and licorice sets up the palate for a treat sensation of sour cherries, crushed dried herbs and black licorice. The stunning finish is lengthy, luxurious with hints of raspberries, coffee and tobacco. This is pretty hefty and needs some aggressive accompaniment (reduction sauce of Port wine, mushrooms and dried cranberries) to accompany any fowl dish. (VH)


Serris "Enclos de Ferrand" Merlot 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $10.95 (707794)

This rated high on the "wow!" meter for both of us. It's a big, flavourful red with loads of ripe fruit and gamey, wild, herbal, spicy, garrigue notes. There's a lot of wine here for this price, and we recommend buying it by the case, but only after we have ours. Pair it with flavourful, spicy foods like ribs, pepper steak, grilled lamb?. (RP)



Le Galantin Bandol, 2001
AOC Bandol, France $21.95 (930412)

A big, spicy red wine from the hot Mediterranean. With plush dark fruit (plum, cherry) and spicy, herbal notes, it carries its 15% alcohol well. It has a rich texture, big firm tannins and a long spicy finish. Put it away for another five years or drink it now with spicy Mediterranean food, like well-herbed grilled lamb. (RP)


Casa Girelli Primitivo 'Canaletto' 2001
IGT Puglia, Italy $12.95 (969360)

Named after a famous Venetian 18thC painter, this wine is a work of art. Gobs of smoky, dark berry fruit aromas jump from the glass and this rich succulent attack is carried through to the palate. You may also taste tar, mint and ripe cherries if you let it roll around long enough before swallowing (not easy to wait, you will find out). A medium finish allows this to be savoured on its own or matched to lasagna or other tomato and meat-based pasta dishes. Great price. (VH)


Finca Antigua Tempranillo 2002
DO La Mancha, Spain $12.95 (597070)

Spiced black plums and leather form an interesting segue to this medium to full-bodied red. The flavour profile includes sweet coconut and ripe, black cherries with a spine of crispness to balance it all off. Quintessential 'new world' style (jammy, fruit forward and easy drinking) that should prove a real crowd pleaser with grilled meats e.g. lamb or beef. The price is outstanding and reflects its origin from a former 'bulk' wine region now producing some quality reds. (VH)



Britzinger Rosenberg Grauer Burgunder Kabinett Trocken 2003
Baden, Germany QmP $16.95 (640250)

The delicate floral and honey nose is a true indicator of what is to follow. This light-bodied sipper has lovely balance of sweet fruit (Anjou pears and Golden Delicious apples) and citrus (lemon and lime) flavours that provide tang and crispness. The pleasant short finish will still allow you to marry to veal or creamy pasta dishes. (VH)


Château Val Joanis Rosé 2004
AOC Côtes du Luberon, France $14.95 (707281)

One of the bigger rosés you're likely to come across, and almost a red in light salmon-coloured clothing. Look for rich dark fruit (cherry, berries), with big body and real power (partly driven by the 14% alcohol). This is no wimpy pink wine, and even your most unreconstructed I Don't Drink Pinko friend will have to admit he (or she) likes this one. Serve it with steak frites. (RP)



Jackson-Triggs 'Proprietors' Grand Reserve' Méthode Classique 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Canada $24.95 (587691)

Brioche, green tea and citrus aromatics form an intriguing nose to this very well priced white. I loved the great attack on the palate from this classy offering as it offers crispness and finesse. Fountains of mousse attest to its pedigree. Enjoy as an elegant welcoming wine or pair with ris de veau (sweetbreads) in a white wine and mushroom sauce. (VH)



Château des Charmes "St. David's Bench" Viognier 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (432948)

This is an edgy Viognier, with flavours in the green zones of peach, melon and apricot. There's a suggestive hint of spice and excellent balance, with quite bracing acidity. Together with the underlying fruit sweetness, it's a natural for mildly spicy Thai dishes. (RP)



J. Lohr Estates 'Seven Oaks' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Paso Robles $22.95 (656561)

Paso Robles had vine plantings 250 years ago (Spanish conquistadors). The lifted and involved nose of cassis, smoky green olives, cranberries and mint certainly grabs your attention. The palate is rich and concentrated black fruit (currants and cherries) entwined with ripe, but grippy tannins. Drink now (if you dare), but better 2008 until 2012 with rare strip loin encrusted with garlic and black pepper. (VH)


La Crema Pinot Noir 2003
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (719435) and $14.95 (732040) a 375ml bottle

La Crema has long been a favourite, and this vintage confirms it once again. It's a Pinot in a fine New World style, big and fruity but retaining the character of the grape in its complexity, weight and balance. It has an opulent, stylish texture, and holds on for a satisfyingly long finish. Pair it with a medium-rare rack of lamb. (RP)


Rodney Strong Pinot Noir 2001
Russian River Valley Estate $19.95 (954834)

My favorite Pinot of the tasting and Rod loved it, too. The nose is smoke, oak and cranberries and the flavours are involved and fruit forward - look for a sweet core of ripe Bing cherries and blueberries along with some interesting notes of coffee, lavender and cinnamon. The balance is perfect and the oak has been deftly handled. If you must eat something with this, (stunning on its own) try planked, grilled salmon with boiled and buttered, dilled potatoes. (VH)



Terravid Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
'Vino Premium', Maipo Valley $13.95 (650341)

Quite medicinal (minty nuances) on the nose, but the fruit (raspberries and plums) come to the fore on the palate. The tannins are grainy and this needs a rest in the cellar before you decant for a couple of hours then consume. The finish and the price suggest this is worth a try. Drink 2008 - 2012 with grilled (rare) lamb tenderloins. (VH)



Taltarni Vineyards 'Lalla Gully' Riesling 2003
Pipers River, Tasmania $19.95 (656645)

An atypical profile for a German or Canadian-styled Riesling, but a good drop from cool climate 'Tassy', all the same. There is some mineral and slate on the nose, but floral and red licorice aromatics predominate. Wonderful Granny Smith apples and yellow plum flavours abound on the palate whilst the finish is crisp and redolent of passion fruit and green pineapple. Try with pan-fried rainbow trout and wild rice. (VH)



A lovely nose of cantaloupe and honeydew melon leads the way to this medium-bodied white. The flavour profile includes spicy apples, poached pear and a mélange of tropical fruits. This is a nicely balanced and easy drinking wine that would do well paired with lightly seasoned pork or veal dishes. (VH)




Baileys of Glenrowan '1920s Block' Shiraz 2001
Victoria $38.95 (595660)

Peppered plums form the entry to this elegant and much sought-after wine from cool (in Aussie terms) climate Victoria. This 23 acre vineyard was planted in the 20s and they have another minuscule plot (2.5 acres) planted in 1904. Sweet, but not jammy, berry fruit forms the core of this full-bodied red that is the epitome of balance (oak, acidity, tannin and fruit) and an exemplar for others. Drink now to 2012 with very good friends accompanied by grilled rare rack of lamb. A tad pricey, but who's worth it more than you? (VH)


Blue Pyrenees Shiraz 2001
Pyrenees, Victoria $19.95 (935890)

This is a Shiraz from a cooler Australian region, and it comes without the heavy, jammy fruit that can tire your palate after two bottles. This is made in a more restrained style, allowing more structure through the fruit, yet maintaining unmistakably Australian Shiraz character. The fruit profile is there, as are the spicy, menthol notes, but this begs for food like a nice cut of red meat. (RP)


Katnook Estate Riddoch Cabernet/Merlot 2002
Coonawara, South Australia $15.95 (713255)

Mint and tobacco waft from the glass before giving way to raspberry jam and cooked plum flavours. Quite fleshy in the mouth, it does not lack from balance as a core of welcomed acidity provides interest and a delightful tang. This is drinking well now with no corners or rough edges. Try with a cassoulet or simple beef stew. (VH)


Katnook Estate Riddoch Cabernet/Shiraz 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $15.95 (590489)

The lifted nose of eucalyptus, tar and black licorice is quite amazing. The palate is a rich, concentrated fruit bomb (ripe black cherries and dried currants) infused with grainy, but ripe tannins and a refreshing touch of acidity. Not monochromatic or jammy, the finish is quite lengthy, somewhat silky and fruit forward. Drink now to 2010 and at this price you can purchase multiples and affordably do both. (VH)


Voyager Estate Shiraz 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $26.95 (713115)

An involved and delicate nose offers up violets, spiced cherries and smoky nuances. There are more spiced (cinnamon and nutmeg) cherries on the palate along with a core of tannin and crisp, fresh acidity that, when combined, portend a lengthy life for this lovely sweet tasting (14% alc.) red. The finish is exquisitely balanced and more refined than many. Wisely sealed under screwcap, all these elements will hold together in your cellar until you drink it 2008 - 2012. (VH)


Wynn's Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2002
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (511600)

This winery seldom misses the mark and this is no exception. Lovely aromatics of classic cassis, mint and peppered plums provide a suitable entry to this medium to full-bodied red blend. The rich and concentrated flavours (red berry fruit and red licorice) on the palate sneak up on you then the hedonistic finish of ripe cherries, tannin and currants reels you in. Well balanced and extremely well made. Pair with grilled rare red meats from now until 2010. (VH)



Babich "Winemaker's Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Isalnd $19.95 (656629)

This is a full-on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, with pyrazine-loaded pungency, bracing acidity, and the fruit you expect-passion fruit, gooseberry, lime zest-with sweaty, green herb notes. It really is impressive, but I wonder when this overpowering style will start to pall, as the equivalent Shiraz style did, and have wine-lovers looking for more restrained expressions. In the meantime, knock this one back with a couple of dozen oysters on the shell. (RP)


Cottesbrook Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (657221)

And now for something completely different. Here is a Kiwi SB that has a touch of restraint and finesse. All the elements are there in spades, herbaceousness, gooseberry, passion fruit and citrus, but they are subdued in a charming and inviting manner. If you like aspects of typical Sauvignon Blanc, but find them overpowering (as many do) then I highly recommend this to you. Pair with all the usual suspects - Goat's cheese, grilled asparagus, Greek salad - and luxuriate in this fine wine. Well priced, as well. (VH)


Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (975672)

A lifted nose of spicy passion fruit and grassy tones gives way to a fruity (apples and lemons) palate that is wrapped in bracing acidity and an intriguingly supple mouthfeel. Crawford is the doyen of Kiwi wine makers and this is a fine example of how he earned his sterling reputation. Serve chilled, on its own, enjoying the dog days of summer. (VH)



Kemblefield "The Distinction" Merlot 2002
Hawkes Bay, North Island $22.95 (586057)

Look at a map, and you can think of the east coast of New Zealand's North Island as a sort of Right Bank. Not inappropriate, then, that it should start turning out impressive Merlots like this one. The fruit is very pure and it has stylish savoury and spice notes that flow through to the long finish. Good body, plush texture, and distinguished, indeed. Given its provenance, lamb seems the right choice. (RP)



Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
WO Stellenbosch $12.95 (744375)

Leather and tobacco emanate from the glass whilst the palate is mellow, creamy and fruit (cranberry and sour cherry) driven. This quaffer is well balanced and great value. You can drink now, on its own or with all manner of bar b qued beef. (VH)



Domaine Nicolas Maillet Mâcon-Verzé 'Le Chemin Blanc' 2004
AOC Burgundy $19.95 (681031)

The green / straw appearance is quite striking and the nose (tropical fruit and citrus) is lifted and luxurious. Apple, pear, lemon and green plum flavours abound in this gorgeously structured white that really struts its stuff on the finish. It is lengthy and a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. This wine is delicately balanced between a new and old world-style and the result is a finely crafted wine that would pair well with chicken Kiev. Incredible value. (VH)



Domaine de Valmengaux 2002
AOC Bordeaux $29.95 (918565)

We both found this wine compelling for its taste and its price point. There is a huge involved nose that has elements of smoky bacon, cassis and anise. The palate goes from strength to strength, ripe tannins, crisp and dry acidity plus rich and concentrated flavours of kirsch and black currants. The finish delivers more of the same. Drink now with elk, venison or beef carpaccio. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)


Domaine de la Serre 'Hypogée' 2002
AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages $39.95 (588756)

This inky, opaque brooding monster delivers a lifted nose of chocolate, tar and raspberry. There is a fleshy mouthfeel whilst tasting a cornucopia of rich, concentrated fruit (Bing cherries and cranberries) comfortably wrapped in perceptible tannins and good, balancing acidity. Taste it for the finish alone as it delivers as much as the initial attack. More than fairly priced. Drink from 2009 to 2017. (VH)


Château d'Or et de Gueules 'Les Cimels' 2001
AOC Costières de Nîmes $16.95 (597104)

This offers a rich, sweet nose of black plums and leather. The palate is predominantly cherry compote with some interesting minty nuances. It's a bit rustic now and needs considerable time to tone down the tannin and get everything in sync. All the elements are there (good fruit, tannin and acidity), but they have not yet melded into a cohesive unit. This will reward patient cellaring and a few hours decanting from 2008 until 2015. Wonderful price. (VH)


Domaine Grès St-Vincent 2003
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône Villages $15.95 (652172)

This is a wonderful bistro-style wine, the sort I imagine drinking with what's called bistro cuisine-flavourful, imaginative, but often fundamentally simple. It's flavour-packed with spicy, peppery and wild herb notes, and a juicy texture. From the scorching summer of 2003, this is a wine to put away until the winter blahs threaten. (RP)



Zilliken Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $19.95 (931097)

Another winner from this world class producer of fine wines at bargain basement pricing. Oily aromatic nuances drift from the glass accompanied by green apples and slate. There are peaches, nectarines and guava on the melon and the balance in this wine is amazing as all the elements are in harmony. A tour de force in wine making that is stunning now and will develop even further (richer, creamier, more intensely flavoured, petrol aromatics) over the next 10 to 15 years. (VH)



Feudi di San Gregorio 'Vigne di Mezzo Efesto' 2001
DOC Aglianico del Vulture $35.95 (650705)

This inky blockbuster blasts from the glass with tobacco, coffee and red berry fruit. It is full-bodied, rich, concentrated with a full fruit profile (spiced and tarry cherries) perceptible tannin and beautifully handled oak and acidity. A cellar dweller that will come into its own 2007 to 2015. If you've no wild boar on hand, try with rare roast beef. (VH)


Rivera 'Cappellaccio' Aglianico Riserva 2001
DOC Castel del Monte $17.95 (984120)

A muted nose of forest floor and sour cherries is a lovely entrée to this medium to full-bodied red. There are a few edges to this wine (grainy tannins, bracing crispness and a hot finish), but they provide interest rather than a distraction. Not a wimpy wine, it has charm, body and a compelling edginess for those who strike out on the path less traveled. Drink now - 2009. (VH)


Cusumano Syrah 2003
IGT Sicilia $13.95 (597146)

A big Syrah from Sicily that's competition to Shiraz from that bigger island down south. This has a core of dark fruit, big spicy and herbal accents and big tannins. Big, in short, although the weight is a bit above medium. Try it with grilled veal and herbed grilled root vegetables. (RP)


Banfi 'Centine' 2004
IGT Toscana $16.95 (947440)

Leather and red currant aromatics open the door to this mellow and smooth offering. Banfi is one of the most respected producers in the world and this Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend shows why. Silky on the palate, there are fruit flavours of crushed black currants and spicy cherries while tannins are imperceptible. Drink now with curried goat or spicy beef dishes. (VH)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desparate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers, Rod and Vic